The magic of spice blends _ a guide to the art, science, and lore of combining flavors ( PDFDrive )

the magic of

SPICE

BLENDS

the magic

OF

SPICE

BLENDS

A Guide to the Art,

Science, and Lore of

Combining Flavors

ALIZA GREEN

© 2016 by Quarry Books

Text © 2016 Aliza Green

First published in the United States of America in 2016 by

Quarry Books, an imprint of

Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.

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We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and

will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent

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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

ISBN: 978-1-63159-074-0

Digital edition published in 2016

eISBN: 978-1-62788-799-1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available

Design: Samantha J. Bednarek

Photography: Steve Legato/stevelegato.com

Spezie Forti recipe, page 94, © 2014 Chef Cesare Casella

Printed in China

DEDICATION

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED to my

mother, Vivian Green, who introduced

me to the magic of bustling markets,

fresh ingredients, and bold spices.

May she reach 100 years and more!

CONTENTS

Preface 9

11

1 • An Introduction to Spices

• Spices 101 12

• Working with Spices and Herbs 16

25

2 • African Blends

• Ras el Hanout—North Africa 26

• Chermoula—Morocco 28

• Tabil—Tunisia 30

• Harissa Paste—Tunisia 32

• Dukkah—Egypt 34

• Berberé—Ethiopia 36

39

3 • Asian Blends

• Shichimi Togarashi—Japan 40

• Gomasio—Japan 42

• Five-Spice Powder—China 44

• Thai Curry Pastes—Thailand 46

53

4 • latin-American Blends

• Achiote Paste—Yucatán 54

• Mole—Mexico 57

• Tempero Baiano—Brazil 63

• Adobo Seasoning—Caribbean 66

• Poudre de Colombo—Caribbean 68

• Jerk Seasoning—Jamaica 70

73

5 • European Blends

• Bouquet Garni—France 74

• Fines Herbes—France 76

• Herbes de Provence—France 78

• Quatre Épices—France 80

• Khmeli-Suneli—Georgia 82

• Speculaas Spice—Holland 84

• Gingerbread Spice Mix—Nordic

and Lowland Countries 88

• Pickling Spice—Northern Europe 90

• Tempero da Essência—Portugal 92

• Spezie Forti—Tuscany 94

97

6 • Blends from the Indian

Subcontinent

• Basic Curry Powder—Southern India 98

• Balti Masala Spice Mix—Baltistan 100

• Khotachiwadi East Indian Bottle

Masala—Mumbai 102

• Garam Masala—Northern India 104

• Panch Phoron—Bengal 106

• Sambar Podi—Alleppey 108

• Vadouvan—Pondicherry, India 111

• Spiced Tarka—Indian Subcontinent 114

117

7 • Blends from

the Middle East

• Advieh—Iran 118

• Baharat—Turkey 120

• Za’atar Mix—Syria, Palestine,

and Lebanon 122

• Seven Spices—Lebanon 124

• Hawaij—Yemen 126

• Zhoug—Yemen 128

131

8 • North American Blends

• Apple Pie Spice—

East Coast, United States 132

• Poultry Seasoning—New England 135

• Montreal Steak Seasoning—

Montreal 136

• Pastrami Seasoning—Mid-Atlantic

United States and Canada 138

• Barbecue Seasoning Rub—Texas 140

• Chili Powder—Texas 142

• Louisiana Crawfish Boil Spices—

Louisiana 144

• Cajun Seasoning—Louisiana 146

• Chesapeake Bay Seasoning—

Maryland 147

• Pumpkin Pie Spice—North America 148

Resources 150

Acknowledgments 152

About the Author 153

Index 154

PREFACE

MAYBE IT WAS MY VISITS to spice markets

in Mexico, Israel, Greece, and elsewhere—

from childhood on—with their intoxicating

smells and cone-shaped mounds of

mysterious and colorful spices that first got

me hooked on spices. Perhaps it’s because

of my inveterate curiosity about culinary

ingredients. What is in this mysterious

blend and what makes it smell so good? In

my quest to learn more about spices, a trip

to Greece led me to Elixir, a small shop in

the wholesale market area of Athens with

walls lined in antique wooden cabinets,

each drawer filled with a different spice,

dried bunches of potent Greek wildharvested

herbs hanging from the rafters,

and mastica resin harvested only on the

fragrant island known as Chios.

Getting to know the legendary Ann

Wilder, founder of Baltimore’s Vann’s

Spices, encouraged me to pursue my

exploration of the world of spices and

complex spice blends. On a trip to Napa

Valley, California, I visited with spice

maven, Shuli Madrone, who answered

a slew of questions and introduced me

to his select collection of spices. A few

years later, I made a special trip to India

to learn more about the world’s biggest

producer and consumer of spices and had

the opportunity to spend an afternoon

with a group of East Indian women who

make their family heirloom–recipe, bottled

masala, in giant batches once a year. My

luggage was weighed down by bags (not

nearly enough!) of their bottled masala

and, best of all, a recipe to make it myself,

which I have adapted for this book.

Several years ago, I had the pleasure of

writing the small, compact Field Guide to

Herbs & Spices, which whetted my appetite

to learn more about spices: what happens

when they are toasted, ground, and

perfectly blended and how these blends

provide the characteristic underlying flavor

profile for world cuisine from Turkey to

Morocco, Mexico to Thailand, Brazil to Sri

Lanka. To test the recipes for this book

and to hone my skills, I conducted a highly

successful series of cooking classes focused

on making spice blends and using them in

recipes that I presented at the Les Dames

d’Escoffier International annual conference,

the Monell Chemical Senses Center, and at

Baba Olga’s Café in Philadelphia where I

act as chef. Enthusiastic audience reaction

further encouraged me to write this book.

Once I started working on it, everything

just flowed and I got more and more

immersed in the art of sourcing, roasting,

and blending spices so that the finished

mixture is so well-balanced that no one

spice dominates, and the whole is far more

than the sum of its individual parts.

Whether it’s a blend of whole and

crumbled spices for the highly adaptable

Pickling Spice blend, a complex and

intriguing mélange of Mediterranean,

Indian, and East Asian spices for Moroccan

Ras al Hanout; the Tunisian pantry staple,

Harissa, which I learned to make from

a Tunisian-Jewish restaurateur; or the

Turkish basic blend, baharat, that my

Turkish cooking friends rely on to season

lamb kebobs and lahmajun, a spiced lamb

flatbread, each of these blends brings a

world of characteristic aromas into your

kitchen for a quick and inexpensive mental

get-away—that’s the magic of spice blends!

So, until my next trip to Morocco or

Turkey or Thailand or Mexico, I’ll rely on

my precious library of homemade spice

blends to bring their characteristic flavors

to my cooking. Once you’ve filled your

home with the fragrance of toasting spices

and start making your own blends, you’ll

be hooked, too.

9

1

AN INTRODUCTION TO

SPICES

There are various ways of categorizing spices, but five general

categories are helpful: sweet, pungent, tart, hot, and savory.

Many spices have elements of more than one category, so that

habanero chiles are both hot (very hot!) and sweet and fruity,

while coriander seeds are citrus-scented and the leaves, often

known as cilantro, are highly pungent. Sweet spices include

cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and vanilla. Pungent spices include

star anise, licorice, cardamom, black cardamom, asafetida,

mace, and clove, which may also have numbing qualities. Tart

or tangy spices include sumac, ginger, tamarind, anardana and

limu omani. Savory spices include many of the seeds and herbs

such as coriander, fennel, parsley, oregano, rosemary, and mint.

In this chapter, we explore spices from several aspects: the

various plant parts from which spices are derived and how

they’re produced; the terminology of grading and quality and

how to make good choices; basic safety guidelines for handling

and cooking with spices; and the essential techniques for

working with them.

11

SPICES 101

PLANT PARTS AND BOTANICAL FAMILIES

Here I explain the various plant parts and families so that it’s

easy to understand why coriander, cumin, fennel, and anise work

so well together—they are all part of the same Apiaceae family

and share the same umbrella-shaped seedpod—and the relation

between ginger, cardamom, galangal, and turmeric—they all

derive from closely related rhizomes.

Spices are mostly derived from plant parts. A few come from

animal-based sources, which appear at the end of the following list.

• Bark: true or Sri Lankan cinnamon, Chinese cassia, Indonesian

cinnamon, Vietnamese cinnamon

• Bulbs: onion, garlic, shallot, chives

• Flower buds and blossoms: clove, caper, rose buds,

nasturtium, orange blossom, hibiscus, kewra (screw pine

blossom), lavender blossom, safflower

(Carthamus tinctorius), saffron

• Fruits: anise, ajwain, black cumin (kala jeera), caraway,

dill, coriander, cumin, fennel, celery, lovage (carom).

We call these members of the Apiaceae

family “seeds,” but they’re actually

tiny fruits.

• Fruits (pods): bell pepper,

black cardamom, cardamom, hundreds

of varieties of chile peppers, Sichuan

pepper, Japanese sancho, star anise,

tamarind, vanilla (fermented pods of the

vanilla orchid)

• Fruits (drupes and berries): allspice

(leaves also used), black peppercorns,

Chinese wolfberry, cubeb pepper,

Iranian barberry, bay laurel berries,

lemon, lime, limu omani, kokam,

long pepper, mango (unripe, dried,

and powdered for amchur powder),

orange, tangerine, pink peppercorn,

sumac, juniper, wild lime fruit

(also known as kaffir lime, a term

now considered derogatory)

• Leaf (only): bay laurel, sassafras, curry

leaf, Indian bay leaf, lemon myrtle,

lemon verbena, Mexican pepperleaf,

myrtle, screw pine leaf (pandanus), wild

lime leaf (also known as kaffir lime)

• Leaf and stems: angelica leaves

(golpar in Iran), basil, blue fenugreek,

borage (blossoms are also eaten),

celery, chervil, chives, cilantro, dill,

epazote, fennel (another variety,

Florence fennel, is cultivated for its

enlarged bulbs), fenugreek leaves

(methi in India), hyssop, lemon balm,

lemongrass (stalks only), long coriander

or culantro (Eryngium foetidum),

lovage, Mexican tarragon (Tagetes

lucida), marjoram, oregano, papalo

(Mexico), parsley, spearmint,

peppermint, perilla, rue, sorrel, sage,

savory, tarragon, thyme, Vietnamese

coriander, chepil (Mexico), and

countless other herbs found in

specific locales

• Lichen: stone flower (Parmelia perlata),

also known as kalpasi, kallupachi,

chabila, or dagad phool in Hindi

• Pollen: dill, wild fennel, cultivated

fennel

• Resin: mastic, asafetida

12

THE MAGIC OF SPICE BLENDS

• Rhizomes: galangal, ginger, turmeric,

wasabi, zedoary (white turmeric)

• Rind: orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit,

Omani lime, preserved lemon,

preserved lime

• Root: angelica root (often candied

for its decorative green color),

celery root, coriander root,

horseradish, licorice, parsley root

• Seeds: annatto, black and brown

mustard, black sesame, blue poppy,

cardamom, fenugreek, grains of

paradise, mahlab cherry, white poppy,

mace (outer covering of nutmeg

seed), nigella, nutmeg, anardana (dried

powdered pomegranate seeds or arils),

white sesame, white or yellow mustard

• Animal-derived seasonings: blanchan

or kapee (Southeast Asian and

Indonesian fermented shrimp paste),

fish sauce (Southeast Asian

fermented anchovy liquid), colatura

(Italian fermented anchovy sauce).

Cantharidin (secreted by the emerald

green beetle known as Spanish fly;

now illegal in Morocco and elsewhere)

sometimes added to ras al hanout for

its supposed aphrodisiac qualities.

The substance actually irritates the

body’s genitourinary tract, and can

result in poisoning if ingested.

SPICE PRODUCTION

Most spices are grown in the tropical

regions of the world, while many of the

seeds used as spices come from temperate

regions. The majority of spices are still

harvested by hand, part of the reason for

their high cost. The array of distinct and

varied flavors in spices is contained in

their volatile oils. Some of these flavors

exist in spices in their fresh form, such

as ginger, garlic, and chiles. These same

spices taste different when dried, so that

powdered ginger is hotter and less fruity

than fresh ginger, and dried garlic is far

more pungent than the fresh cloves.

They may be smoked for preservation,

as in the case of black cardamom and

many types of chiles, including Spanish

pimentón and Mexican chipotles. Other

spices must be dried and then fermented

to bring out their flavor. These include

vanilla, which is the tasteless green

seedpod of the vanilla orchid until it

has been fermented and turns black,

and peppercorns, which turn black and

pungent upon drying and fermenting.

Top Ten Spice-Producing Countries

India is by far the largest world spice producer, with 1,525,000 metric tons of spices produced

in 2011, about 70 percent of world production. The next largest producer, Bangladesh,

produced less than 10 percent of India’s total. World spice production in 2011 was

more than two million metric tons, which shows how important spices are to us.

According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organization, these are the top ten countries

for world spice production in order from first to tenth:

1

India

5

Pakistan

8

Colombia

2

Bangladesh

6

Iran

9

Ethiopia

3

Turkey

7

Nepal

10

Sri Lanka

4

China

AN INTRODUCTION TO SPICES 13

GRADING AND QUALITY

When making your own spice blends, it’s

most important to start with high-quality,

pure spices from a reputable supplier that

preferably roasts and grinds their spices

to order or in small batches. Because of

their high value, spices have long been

adulterated by various means. Valuable

essential oils of a spice such as paprika or

black pepper may have been removed and

the remaining flavorless, spent spice used

to extend the whole spice and save money.

Spices may be adulterated by having

other, less valuable ingredients added for

bulk, such as buckwheat or millet seeds

added to ground black and white pepper,

or coffee hulls added to ground cinnamon

and nutmeg. Spices may be artificially

colored by adding inexpensive turmeric to

paprika, adding red food coloring to chili

powder, adding tomato skins to paprika,

or adding cistus leaves to oregano. These

additions brighten and enhance color to

appeal to consumers.

SPICES AND FOOD SAFETY

Many spices have antimicrobial properties,

which helps explain why they are most

commonly used in hot climates. Spices are

often used to help preserve meat, fish, and

poultry because these animal proteins

are so susceptible to spoiling. Some of the

earliest uses of spices and spice blends

were to help preserve meats by making

them into cured and dried sausages.

Most herbs and spices are high in

antioxidants, because of their flavonoids,

which influence nutrition through

many pathways, including affecting

the absorption of other nutrients.

Cumin, turmeric, and ginger are high in

antioxidants, which also act as natural

preservatives, preventing or slowing the

rate of food spoilage.

Note that spices may be contaminated

by salmonella bacteria, and this is the

case for about 12 percent of the spices

imported into the United States. To

avoid possible illness, it’s best to cook

spices before using them by toasting in

a dry skillet, frying in oil or other fat, or

adding to simmering liquids such as soup.

Cooking spices also enhances their flavor

by freeing their essential oils. This is a

common practice in countries with a large

consumption of spices, such as Mexico and

India, in moles and masalas.

Some spices, especially members of

the chile family, may develop mold if they

are exposed to high humidity. Others,

especially those high in oils, such as

sesame and poppy seeds, may develop

insect damage, again if they are stored

for long periods of time in a warm, humid

place. Look for signs of insect eggs or

clumping of dry spices and discard any

spices that have been damaged. The oils

in these seeds may also become rancid

and should be discarded. Avoid these

issues by storing spices in a cool, dark

place in a tightly sealed container, or

refrigerate or even freeze.

14


Buying Spices at Indian Markets

Indian markets are wonderful places to buy the most fragrant, pungent spices due

to the far quicker turnover of product compared to jars and cans on supermarket

shelves. Look for creamy white poppy; small, intense black cumin or kala jeera; deep

yellow-orange Alleppey turmeric; and green, anise-like Lucknow fennel. This list of

basic Indian spices with their Hindi names will help you negotiate the spice shelves

at any Indian market.

SPICE

• Black Cumin

• Black Peppercorns

• Cardamom

• Chickpea Flour

• Cloves

• Coriander Seeds

• Cumin Seeds

• Fennel Seeds

• Fenugreek Seeds

• Indian Bay Leaves

• Kashmiri Chiles

• Mace

• Mugwort

• Nutmeg

• Poppy Seeds

• Sesame Seeds

• Star Anise

• Stone Flower Lichen, Parmelia Perlata

• True Cinnamon

• Turmeric

• Whole Wheat Flour

• Yellow Mustard Seeds

HINDI NAME

Shahi Jeera

Kali Mirch

Badi Or Kali Elaichi

Gram Flour

Lavang

Dhania

Jeera

Saunf

Methi

Tej Patta

Kashmiri Mirch

Jaipatri

Maipatri

Jaiphal

Post, Khus Khus

Gingelly

Badian

Dagad Phool, Kalpasi, Kallupachi, Chab

Darchini

Haldi

Chapati Flour

Rai


WORKING WITH

SPICES AND HERBS

SOME SPICES ARE SOLD FRESH,

especially near where they are grown,

such as turmeric, ginger, galangal,

mace, nutmeg, paprika, chiles, and even

green peppercorns. But spices are most

commonly sold in dried form, whole—

best for long-keeping; crushed—best for

mouth-pleasing texture and variety of

color; or powdered—best for blending

and even sprinkling, though this is their

shortest-lived form. Because the volatile

oils dissipate into the air, after a short

time what is left of the original complex,

multidimensional flavor are the harsher,

longer-lasting elements. Compare the

difference between store-bought ground

black pepper and freshly ground black

pepper or between store-bought ground

nutmeg and freshly grated nutmeg.

The flavor of a spice derives partly

from volatile oils that oxidize (react with

oxygen) or evaporate when exposed to

air. Grinding a spice greatly increases its

surface area and so increases the rates of

oxidation and evaporation. Some spices,

like fenugreek, have fleeting aromas that

quickly disappear after grinding. Whole

dry spices will keep for two years or even

longer without losing their volatile oils.

Once ground, the spice will last up to six

months, though spices such as paprika

will lose their color and fade in flavor more

quickly than that. It is best to store any

spices away from the light. In fact, the

old-fashioned tins used for some brands

of spices, in which spices imported from

India and Japan are often found, are the

best way to store spices. The downside is

that the spices can’t be seen inside the tin.

The traditional way to grind whole spice

is using a mortar and pestle. A microplane

works well for grating nutmeg; a coffee

grinder or special spice grinder is useful

for amounts of less than 1 cup (225 g).

We often use a heavy-duty blender with a

strong motor to grind larger amounts of

spice blends. Some spices may have their

own dedicated mill, such as a pepper or

salt mill, garlic press, or nutmeg grater.

The flavor elements in spices are soluble

in oil, water, or alcohol (such as vanilla

beans soaking in brandy or chile peppers

soaking in sherry). Because the complex

flavors of many spices take time to infuse

into the food, most spices are added at

the start of cooking. Some spices are so

volatile that they are added at the end.

Vanilla bean seeds and saffron, which is

often soaked in a small amount of liquid

to distribute its flavor and color better, are

two examples.

16


Cooking without Recipes

In addition to using spice blends in specific techniques and in recipes that reflect their

regional origins there are many ways to use them in everyday ways, at a moment’s

notice.

• Use pizza or bread dough to make breadsticks. Brush or roll in olive oil, then

roll in your choice of panch phoron, za’atar, vadouvan, berberé, or khmelisuneli,

and then bake.

• Brush flatbread with oil and sprinkle with the spice blends above, then bake until

fragrant.

• Rub whole chicken with spice mix about an hour before roasting—use vadouvan,

berberé, hawaij for soup, charmoula, Balti seasoning, chili powder, poultry

seasoning, tabil or achiote paste.

• Add herb-based spice mixes such as khmeli-suneli, fines herbes, za’atar,

nanami togarashi, or advieh to simple oil and vinegar or oil and lemon

salad dressing.

• Add a pinch of sweet spice mix to dough for cookies such as oatmeal,

blondies, shortbread cookies, and ground nut–based cookies such as Mexican

or Greek wedding cookies. Use pumpkin pie spice, Chinese five spice, apple

pie spice, or speculaas spice.

• Sprinkle steamed veggies with za’atar, khmeli-suneli, herbes de Provence,

fines herbes, or tabil and serve with a wedge of lemon.

• Make a quick, healthy dip for veggies: combine plain Green yogurt with bottle

masala, poudre de colombo, hawaij for soup, advieh, Balti seasoning, adobo,

achiote paste, or Cajun seasoning. Allow the flavors to blend for about

30 minutes before serving.

• Rub steak, especially skirt, flank, tri-trip, or flat iron, with chili powder, berberé,

Turkish baharat, or barbecue seasoning rub. Allow the steak to absorb the flavors

at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes, then broil, sear, or grill. Allow the

steak to rest for 10 minutes, and then slice thinly against the grain.

• Love deviled eggs (and who doesn’t)? Mix cooked yolks with a teaspoon or two

of harissa, adobo, Brazilian tempero baiano, Yemenite hawaij or bottle masala,

achiote paste, Cajun seasoning, or Old Bay and stuff into cooked whites. Sprinkle

tops with a pinch of the spice. Do the same to perk up tuna salad or chicken salad.


DRYING FRESH HERBS

It’s easy to dry herbs, especially when

the humidity is low in winter. Homedried

herbs will be far more fragrant and

appealing in color than the commercial

type, which may have been sitting on

the shelf for far too long. Rather than

throwing out that spoiled bunch of fresh

herbs, use half the bunch fresh and dry the

remainder.

The best way to dry herbs, such as these

spearmint leaves, is on the branch. Spread

the stems out on a metal tray, preferably

lined with parchment paper, and leave to

dry at room temperature. Turn the stems

after a few days so that they dry evenly.

Or tie them into small bundles and hang

to air-dry, which is best done indoors as

bright sunlight will cause color fading

and flavor loss. In humid climates, use

an electric dehydrator, drying from 1 to

4 hours.

The herbs are fully dried when the

leaves crumble easily and the small stems

break when bent. Sturdy, resinous herbs

such as sage, rosemary, oregano, thyme,

and summer savory will dry most easily

without a dehydrator.

18


CREATING AN INDIAN-FLAVORED OIL

In this technique, which is known throughout the Indian Subcontinent as a tarka (see page

114), dry and fresh spices are fried in oil to release fragrant essential oils while enhancing

flavor through browning. Another reason for frying the spices is to kill any salmonella

bacteria by heating them. The spices, which are left whole, are added to the pan in order

of cooking time, with dry spices first, followed by fresh, wet spices.

In addition to using a flavored oil as a topping for dal (see page 114) or other traditional

Indian dishes, the mixture may also be used to flavor and enrich steamed vegetables, fish,

cooked greens, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and grains such as wheat berries, buckwheat

groats, barley, farro, quinoa, and corn.

1 2 3

1. Heat the oil (usually

mustard, sesame, or coconut

oil, or, as shown here, ghee

or clarified butter) in a small,

heavy skillet. Add the dry

spices and fry briefly to

brown lightly and release

their aromas.

2. Add the wet spices

(usually onion, garlic, ginger,

and green chile) to the

skillet. Fry briefly to release

their aromas, then add

the asafetida, which burns

easily, and fry briefly.

3. Just before serving,

season the dish as directed

(dal, an Indian lentil dish,

is shown here; see page

114), then spoon on the

hot spiced oil mixture and

garnish with chopped fresh

herbs.


MAKING A SPICE-INFUSED PICKLING SYRUP

Pickling Spice adds its characteristic blend of herbal, aromatic, and savory flavors to

pickled vegetables, mushrooms, meats such as corned beef, fish such as pickled herring

and salmon, eggs, and fruit. Pickling Spices are kept whole so that the flavors penetrate

the food. Ground spices would make the liquid cloudy and unappetizing. Because the

spices are kept whole or in chunks, the flavors don’t dissipate and the mixture will keep

well up for to 8 months. Here we show how to make spiced sweet-and-sour syrup to pickle

prune plums. (See page 90 for the complete recipe.) Pickling Spice is also used to make a

marinade for the Beef Sauerbraten on page 91.

1 2 3

1. Have ready all the

ingredients and combine as

directed (see page 90). Use

1 to 2 tablespoons (7 to 14 g)

pickling spice for each quart

(L) of liquid. If desired, for

easy removal, make a sachet

by placing the pickling

spices in cheesecloth and

tying tightly with kitchen

string, leaving a long “tail,"

which can be tied to the pot

handle for easy removal.

2. Bring the water, sugars,

vinegar, Pickling Spice,

and other seasonings to a

boil in a nonreactive (not

aluminum) pot. Reduce

the heat and simmer for

20 minutes to infuse the

flavors.

3. If you are cooking fruit,

prick each one in 2 or 3

places to keep them from

bursting. Add to the liquid

and cook for 3 minutes

or until soft. Remove

from the heat and cool to

room temperature in the

liquid. Transfer to storage

containers, preferably glass,

ceramic, or stainless steel,

and refrigerate for 1 week to

cure before serving.

20


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

SEASONING WITH A WET SPICE PASTE

Here we season a side of wild salmon with Vadouvan spice paste (see page 112 for the

complete recipe). The mixture is spread in an even layer of the flesh side of the fish

and roasted.

By adding salt and sugar, the Vadouvan spice paste can easily be made into a cure that

penetrates the flesh of the fish and mixes with its natural juices to make brine. The liquid

produced makes the fish firm and flavorful so that it may be sliced thinly like smoked

salmon. To create a Vadouvan cure paste, combine the Vadouvan spice paste in the

salmon recipe (page 112) with an additional 1 cup (134 g) kosher salt, and 1/4 cup white

(134 g) or brown (55 g) sugar. Spread the mixture evenly over the flesh side of the salmon

and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.

Cube or slice

veggies, toss

with achiote

paste, adobo,

chermoula,

berberé,

poudre du

colombo, or

vadouvan,

and then

spread out

in a single

layer on a

metal baking

tray. Bake

at 400°F

(200°C,

or gas mark

6) 20 to

30 minutes,

until tender

and browned

on the edges.


ROASTING, GRINDING, AND STRAINING: CREATING SPICE

BLENDS WITH CONSISTENT FLAVOR AND TEXTURE

This technique can be used to make Basic Curry Powder (see page 98), Ethiopian

Berberé (page 36), Garam Masala (page 104), Hawaij (page 126), Jerk Seasoning (page 70),

Khotachiwadi East Indian Bottle Masala (page 102), Poudre de Colombo (page 68),

Ras el Hanout (page 26), and Sambar Podi (page 108). Shown here are the steps for

making Balti Masala Spice Mix (see page 100).

1

2

3

1. Combine the hard spices

(here, cassia, coriander,

black cardamom, and

cloves) in a large, heavy

skillet. Toast over medium

heat, while stirring with a

wooden spoon. Remove

spices from skillet and cool.

4

2. To the same skillet, add

the smaller, softer seed

spices (here, cumin, aniseed,

black mustard, fenugreek,

ajwain, and cardamom).

Toast until the spices start to

brown, keeping in mind that

these spices can burn easily.

Remove from the skillet and

transfer the spices to a tray

to cool.

5

3. Once the spices have

cooled to room temperature,

transfer to a large mortar

and pestle (or use a

heavy-duty blender or

spice grinder). Crush the

spices with the pestle by

rubbing and mashing the

spices against the sides and

bottom of the mortar.

6

4. The finished spices

should be in small, even

chunks.

5. For even consistency,

strain the spices through a

wire sieve.

6. Combine with the

remaining whole spices

(here, nigella seeds).

22


Spice and Herb Volume to

Metric Weight Conversion Chart

While measuring spices by weight is certainly the most accurate way of measuring

them, it’s difficult to weigh small quantities unless you have a scientific gram scale.

Use this chart to convert volume measurements (tablespoons) to grams (weight

measurements) for accuracy when making larger amounts of spice blends.

1 TABLESPOON GRAMS

• Dried Mint 4

• Dried Oregano 2

• Dried Rosemary 4

• Dried Tarragon 1

• Dried Thyme 6

• Garlic Powder 8

• Ground Aniseed 6

• Ground Bay Leaf 6

• Ground Caraway 6

• Ground Cardamom 6

• Ground Cayenne 8

• Ground Cinnamon (Cassia) 6

• Ground Cinnamon (True) 5

• Ground Clove 8

• Ground Coriander Seeds 6

• Ground Cumin Seeds 6

• Ground Fennel Seeds 6

• Ground Gingerroot 6

• Ground Mace 8

• Ground Nutmeg 8

• Ground Paprika 6

• Ground Star Anise 8

• Ground Turmeric 10

• Hot Red Pepper Flakes 12

• Rubbed Sage 4

• Table Salt 18

• Whole Black Peppercorns 8

• Whole White Peppercorns 10

• Whole Caraway Seeds 10

• Whole Cumin Seeds 10

• Whole Fennel Seeds 10


2

AFRICAN

BLENDS

In North Africa, the spice repertoire was influenced by the Moors,

medieval Muslim inhabitants of the Maghreb (Morocco, Algeria,

Tunisia, and Libya). Morocco’s Ras el Hanout is based on warm

seed spices such as cumin, fennel, caraway, and coriander and

aromatic Asian spices such as ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and

nutmeg. In southern Africa, the spice palate was influenced

by European colonists and Indian and Malaysian immigrants.

Arabic and Indian influences show up in Ethiopian Berberé.

West African food is typically seasoned with fiery chiles such

as lantern-shaped habaneros from the Caribbean, and tiny bird

peppers, known as piri piri in Angola. Today, Nigeria is a major

producer of ginger, while the islands off the coast of East Africa

raise vanilla, allspice, and cloves for export. The most common

African spices are cardamom, fresh and dried chiles, cilantro,

cinnamon, cloves, cubeb pepper, long pepper, cumin, fenugreek,

garlic, ginger, mint, nutmeg, sesame, and turmeric. Preserved

lemons are a common seasoning in North Africa. Grains of

paradise (related to ginger and turmeric) and tamarind are

native to Africa and sesame may have originated there as well.

25

NORTH AFRICA

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

In Morocco,

ras el hanout

seasons

mrouziya (lamb

stew with

honey, raisins,

and almonds)

and couscous

t’faya (chicken

couscous with

caramelized

onions and

raisins). It

enhances lamb,

meatballs, game

birds (especially

pigeon and

guinea fowl),

tagines, and

couscous dishes,

but isn’t usually

combined with

fish, which would

be overpowered

by its flavor. It

is essential to

b’stilla (pigeon

or chicken pie

with almonds

and cinnamon).

RAS EL HANOUT

Ras el Hanout, which means “head of the market” in Arabic, is a complex mélange

of up to 100 spices that is basic to the cuisines of Morocco and other countries of the

Maghreb (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya). This blend is full of subtle nuances

from sweet spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and aniseed; hot spices such as black

pepper and grains of paradise; and bitter spices such as turmeric and saffron, but no

one spice dominates.

1/4 cup (32 g) whole black peppercorns

1/4 cup (40 g) whole white peppercorns

1/4 cup (32 g) whole allspice berries

1/4 cup (30 g) aniseed

2 large quills true cinnamon,

lightly crushed

2 tablespoons (8 g) mace blades

2 tablespoons (20 g) decorticated

cardamom

4 black (wild) cardamom pods,

crushed (optional)

FOR FILLING

1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, finely chopped

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/4 cup (25 g) Ras el Hanout

2 tablespoons (20 g) turmeric

2 pounds (908 g) ground lamb

1 tablespoon (2 g) loosely packed

saffron threads

2 whole nutmegs, grated

1/2 cup (48 g) ground ginger


1/4 cup (24 g) sweet paprika

2 teaspoons (6 g) ground

cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons (8 g) dried edible

rosebuds, petals removed and

crushed (2 teaspoons [5 g] rosebud

powder may be substituted)

1. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the black and white peppercorns,

allspice, aniseed, cinnamon, mace, cardamom, and black cardamom. Toast, shaking

often, until the spices are fragrant and lightly browned. Remove from the heat and

immediately add the saffron to toast lightly.

2. Remove the spices from the skillet and cool to room temperature. Grind to a

slightly coarse powder. Add the nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, paprika, cayenne, and

crushed rosebud petals.

3. Transfer to a storage container and store, tightly covered, in a dark place for up to

6 months.

YIELD: About 3 cups (300 g)

CIGARI BOREKAS WITH SPICED LAMB FILLING

Borekas are small, easily portable filled pastries that came along with Turkey nomadic

tribes in Central Asia when they moved westward from Anatolia. These pastries, found in

many versions throughout the former Ottoman empire, may have sweet or savory fillings.

Here we use Asian spring roll wrappers as a substitute for hard-to-find Moroccan ouarka

or Tunisian brik; both thin-leaf pastry made by different methods. Turkish yufka dough is

perfect, but the huge, folded rounds must be cut into 8-inch (20 cm) squares or 10-inch x

6-inch (25 x 15 cm) rectangles before filling. You may make the pastries and freeze and fry

them directly from the freezer, allowing a little more cooking time.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper,

to taste

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 bunch Italian parsley, leaves and

small stems chopped

1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves and small

stems chopped

26


FOR ASSEMBLING

1 pound (454 g) square Asian

spring roll wrappers

(defrosted in the refrigerator if frozen)

1 large egg, lightly beaten with

1 tablespoon (15 ml) water,

for egg wash

3 cups (432 g) white sesame seeds

6 cups (1.4 L) olive oil or blended

vegetable and olive oil, for frying

TO MAKE THE FILLING:

1. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil.

Add the onion, garlic, Ras el Hanout, and

turmeric and cook until fragrant and the

onion is soft but not brown. Add the lamb,

salt, and pepper and cook, uncovered,

stirring occasionally, until the meat has

browned and the liquid in the pan has

evaporated, about 10 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and

drain off and discard any excess fat. Stir

in the eggs, cool to room temperature,

and then mix in the parsley and cilantro. To make the filling easier to work with, chill

until firm, about 30 minutes.

TO ASSEMBLE THE CIGARI:

1. Divide the filling into 24 equal portions. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or

a silicone baking mat. Place 2 heaping tablespoons (30 g) of filling about 1 inch (2.5 cm)

above one end of a spring roll wrapper, spreading it out to make a cigar shape of filling,

with a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border on either end. Fold the bottom end over the filling, and then

lap the sides over it. Roll up tightly, making a tight cigar shape. Place the filled pastry seamside

down on the baking sheet. Repeat until all the filling and wrappers have been used.

2. Have ready one bowl with the egg wash and a second bowl with the sesame seeds.

Dip the top of each pastry cigar into the egg wash, allowing the excess to drip off. Then,

dip the top of the pastry into the sesame seeds. Place the filled pastries, seam-side down,

back onto the baking sheet. The pastries may be frozen at this point.

3. Heat about half the oil in a large, heavy, cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven until

shimmering hot and the end of a wooden spoon dipped into the oil creates lively bubbles.

Note that the pan should be no more than one-third full of oil. Have ready a wire cooling

rack placed over a baking tray to catch the oil drips.

4. Carefully add about 6 cigari to the oil, one by one and sesame side down, so the pan is

full of pastries in a single layer. Fry until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes, then carefully turn

using tongs and fry again until brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the cigari using tongs or a

slotted spatula and transfer to the wire rack to drain. Repeat, adding more oil as needed,

until all the pastries have been fried.

5. Serve the cigari warm or at room temperature.

YIELD: 24 pastry cigars

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

lamb stew,

chicken stew,

vegetable

ragout, or

lentil or

chickpea

soup.

Flavor

sautéed

mushrooms.

Rub lamb

shoulder

with Ras el

Hanout, then

slow-roast

until forktender.

AFRICAN BLENDS 27

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Marinate oily

fish such as

sardines,

fresh tuna,

salmon, and

mahi-mahi

in chermoula

before

grilling.

Spread the

mixture all

over and

into slits cut

into the skin

of a whole

fish such as

branzino,

red snapper,

or black sea

bass and

then roast.

Roast

cauliflower

florets and

drizzle with

chermoula

just before

serving.

Dress

steamed

potatoes

with

chermoula

for a

Moroccan

potato salad.

MOROCCO

CHERMOULA

Also found in Algeria and Tunisia, Chermoula is a tangy Moroccan seasoning paste

that may be left chunky or blended until smooth. Tangy, bittersweet preserved lemon

peel, acrid black nigella seeds, saffron, fresh cilantro, cumin, sweet aniseed, and rich,

red paprika give the Chermoula its multifaceted, adaptable flavor. Chermoula pairs

well with fish and seafood and enhances “meaty” vegetables such as okra, eggplant,

mushrooms, cauliflower, and squash.

6 tablespoons (90 ml) extra-virgin

olive oil, plus more for storing

2 lemons, juiced (about 6

tablespoons, or 90 ml)

1 small onion, finely diced


stems chopped

1/2 bunch Italian parsley, leaves and

small stems chopped

2 large cloves garlic, roughly chopped

1 preserved lemon, homemade

or store-bought, yellow peel

finely diced

3 tablespoons (21 g) sweet paprika

1 tablespoon (7 g) ground cumin

1 tablespoon (6 g) ground aniseed

2 teaspoons (6 g) nigella seeds

1 large pinch saffron threads

1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Add all the ingredients to a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Transfer to a storage

container and cover the chermoula with a thin layer of olive oil. Store refrigerated up

to 3 weeks. Alternatively, combine all the ingredients except the nigella seeds in the

jar of a blender and purée until smooth. Stir in the nigella and store.


PRESERVED LEMONS

Preserved lemons are essential to North African cuisine, especially in tagines, where they

combine well with green olives. Easy to make, the lemons are salted and cured in a process

that takes about a month. The salty but tangy pulp can be used to season stews, mixed into

sauces such as aioli or vinaigrette, or added to Bloody Mary mix.

12 large lemons, preferably organic 3 cups (864 g) kosher salt

1. Rinse the lemons in hot water. Quarter each from the top (nipple end) to within

1/2 inch (1.3 cm) of the bottom (stem end) and pull the quarters apart. Generously pack the

exposed quarters with kosher salt, and then reshape the lemons. Place a layer of kosher

salt on the bottom of a nonaluminum container. Add the lemons, pressing down to release

their juices and to make room for more, adding more salt between the layers.

2. Cure at room temperature for 30 days, turning the container upside down occasionally

to redistribute the salt and juices. As the lemons soften, syrupy juices will form; keep

packing the lemons down and adding salt so that they are always covered with salt and/or

juices. Store refrigerated after they have fully ripened.

3. To use, rinse the lemons as needed under cold water. Discard the salty inner pulp.

Scrape off the inner white pith and discard. Slice, chop, or dice the rind to use in recipes.

YIELD: 12 preserved lemons

28


SPICY MOROCCAN STEAMED MUSSELS WITH CHERMOULA

The aromatic flavors of Morocco, with its coasts on both the Mediterranean and the

Atlantic, accent the ocean essence of quick-cooking mussels in this meal in a pot

enhanced by lemony Chermoula. Gold potatoes add appealing color and buttery richness.

Serve with crusty bread to soak up the juices.

1 cup (200 g) Chermoula (page 28)

2 cups (500 g) chopped tomatoes,

fresh or canned


(use more or less to taste)

2 cups (470 ml) water

1 pound (454 g) gold potatoes, cut

into 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) cubes,

peeled if desired

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 bags (4 pounds, or 1.8 kg)

cultivated mussels

1/4 cup chopped cilantro (4 g)

or Italian parsley (15 g)

1. Heat the Chermoula in a large pot with a lid. Cook over medium heat while stirring

until the spice mixture is sizzling and aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the chopped

tomatoes, hot red pepper flakes, and water and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and

salt and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are almost

tender, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place the mussels in a large bowl of cold water and swish around to rinse.

Tap any mussels that have gaped open slightly. If they close, they’re alive and safe to

eat. Discard any that remain gaped open or that have broken shells. Add the mussels to

the pot, cover, and steam open over high heat, about 5 minutes, shaking the pot several

times. Discard any mussels that fail to open.

3. Add the cilantro and toss to combine, and then serve immediately, leaving behind the

last cup (235 ml) or so of cooking liquid in case it contains any sand.

YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

AFRICAN BLENDS 29

TUNISIA

TABIL

Tabil, pronounced “table,” means “seasoning” in Tunisian Arabic and once referred

simply to ground coriander, its main ingredient. Tabil is used together with Harissa

Paste (page 32) to season meat and poultry stews, fish, preserved lamb, couscous

with vegetables, and fried brik pastries. On its own it seasons the stuffing for

vegetables and cooked vegetable salads. Some Tunisians prefer to use caraway seeds

only without coriander. In Tunisia, the spices are pounded in a mortar and then dried

in the sun. In humid climates, the spices are dried in a low oven.

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

When working

with fresh or

dried hot chiles,

it’s a good idea

to wear food

gloves to keep

your hands from

absorbing the

hot chile oil.

Avoid breathing

the fumes

when chopping

fresh hot chiles

or wear a

painter’s mask.

If you don’t wear

gloves, take

extra care not to

touch sensitive

body parts with

your hands.

6 whole dried chiles arbol or other

similar dried hot red chiles

1/2 cup (40 g) coriander seeds

2 pounds (908 g) carrots

3 cloves garlic, minced

6 tablespoons (90 ml) red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons (8 g) Harissa Paste

(page 32)

2 tablespoons (15 g) Tabil


stems chopped


1/4 cup (40 g) caraway seeds

1 head (about 14 cloves) garlic,

peeled and minced

1 tablespoon (18 g) sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to the lowest temperature.

2. Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles, then crumble by hand (wearing food

gloves) and reserve.

3. Combine the coriander and caraway seeds and grind to a slightly coarse powder in

a spice grinder or blender. Mix together the spices, garlic, and salt and spread out in

an even layer on a baking tray, then dry in the oven for 1 hour or until completely dry.

Cool, combine with the crushed chile pepper, and then grind again to a slightly coarse

powder.

4. Transfer to an airtight container and store in a cool, dark place for up to 4 months.


TUNISIAN CARROT SALAD

Like many Tunisian salads, this one is based on a cooked vegetable, here carrots, mixed

with aromatic seasonings and the fruity olive oil produced in Tunisia. In Tunisia, carrot

salad such as this one (or a similar one made with zucchini) that has been mashed is

used as a spread for casse-croûte sandwiches (page 33), making for a tasty alternative to

high-fat mayonnaise. Because it is cooked, this salad will keep quite well for a week in the

refrigerator, but allow it to come to room temperature before serving for best flavor.

1 Preserved Lemon (page 28), trimmed,

white pith scraped off, and diced, for

garnish

1/4 cup (25 g) chopped oil-cured black

olives

Sea salt to taste

Whole oil-cured black olives,

for garnish

Sprigs of cilantro, for garnish

Wash, peel, and dice the carrots. Boil in lightly salted water until tender, about 10 minutes.

Drain and mix with the garlic, vinegar, harissa, Tabil, cilantro, oil, preserved lemon peel,

chopped olives, and a little salt (the olives and preserved lemons are salty on their own).

Garnish with whole olives and cilantro sprigs and serve.


30


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Brush flatbread

with olive oil,

then sprinkle

with Tabil and

toast in the oven.

Sprinkle

cubes of feta

or other tangy

white cheese

with Tabil.

Drizzle sliced

ripe tomatoes

with extra-virgin

olive oil, then

sprinkle with

Tabil.

Sprinkle quartered,

hard-cooked eggs

(leave them a little

underdone) with

sea salt and Tabil.

AFRICAN BLENDS 31

TUNISIA

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Ground caraway

seeds may be

purchased from

specialty spice

companies.

Because whole

caraway seeds

are easier to

find, you may

grind your

own. However,

the seeds are

quite hard and

will require

extensive

grinding until

they are in fine,

small bits.

HARISSA PASTE

Harissa, the basic hot and spicy seasoning paste of Tunisia, is served with kebabs and

couscous in a small dish for diners to season as they wish. You can purchase premade

harissa from Tunisia in tubes or cans, but the best is homemade without all the

preservatives. In sun-soaked Tunisia, the red ripe peppers would be sun-dried.

3 pounds (1.4 kg) red bell peppers,

roasted, peeled, and seeded

2 to 4 ounces (56 to 112 g) fresh hot

red chiles, such as jalapeños

or cherry peppers, seeded and

trimmed

1 cup (96 g) pimentón (Spanish

smoked paprika), dulce (sweet),

or Spanish sweet paprika

1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil,

plus more for storing

8 cloves garlic, peeled

1/4 cup (40 g) caraway seeds, ground in

a spice grinder, or 1/4 cup (40 g)

ground caraway

2 tablespoons (36 g) fine sea salt

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and process to a creamy, thick sauce.

Transfer to a tightly sealed container, pour a layer of olive oil to cover the mixture to

prevent mold from forming, and store in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.


HARISSA SAUCE

Basic Harissa Paste is usually combined with other ingredients to make a thinner,

pourable, and not quite as hot sauce to serve at the table. Instead of water, the liquid may

be the cooking juices ladled from a tagine or stew.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Spread

bread with

hummus

and drizzle

with Harissa

Paste.

Use Harissa

Sauce to

season

Moroccanstyle

chickpea

stew.

2 tablespoons (30 g) Harissa Paste


1 tablespoon (4 g) chopped

Italian parsley

1/2 cup (120 ml) cold water

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and serve as a pourable sauce.

YIELD: About 3/4 cup (150 g)

TUNISIAN CASSE-CROÛTE SANDWICH

Casse-croûte is a kind of hero sandwich filled with canned tuna, potatoes, tomatoes, egg,

artichokes, and capers, served on a crusty French baguette and spiced with fiery harissa.

Its name is adopted from the French who colonized Tunisia and means “break the crust.”

Feel free to spread the bread with mashed Tunisian Carrot Salad (page 30) for a milder,

sweeter sandwich. This sandwich is best made with just-cooked potatoes that have not

been refrigerated and rich olive oil–packed albacore or yellowfin tuna.

32


1/2 pound (227 g) Yukon gold potatoes,

cut into 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) thick slices

(peel if skin is thick)

1 crusty French baguette


divided

1/4 cup (40 g) thinly sliced onion,

preferably sweet onion

1/4 cup (4 g) coarsely chopped cilantro

2 large ripe tomatoes, sliced

3/4 cup (225 g) drained marinated

artichokes, sliced if large

4 hard-cooked eggs, sliced (don’t cook

the eggs all the way through—they

should be soft inside)

1 can (6 ounces, or 168 g) albacore

or yellowfin tuna in olive oil,

lightly drained and broken up

1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 g)

Harissa Paste (page 32)

4 tablespoons drained capers (34 g)

and/or pitted and coarsely chopped

cured black olives (25 g)

1 lemon, cut in half horizontally and

seeds removed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black

pepper to taste

1. Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes and cook

until tender. Drain and allow the potatoes to cool but don’t chill.

2. Slice the baguette horizontally to hinge without cutting all the way through. Pull out

most of the soft bread from inside the top half of the baguette. Drizzle both sides with

2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the olive oil.

3. Sprinkle both sides of the bread with the sliced onion and cilantro. Shingle the tomato

slices. Shingle the potatoes on the other side of the sandwich. Fill the center with the

artichokes, sliced eggs, and tuna. Drizzle with the harissa.

4. Top with the capers and/or olives, and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml)

olive oil. Squeeze the lemon over the top, then sprinkle the sandwich with salt and black

pepper. Press the two sides of the sandwich together to compress, cut into 4 sections, and

serve immediately or later the same day.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Drizzle sliced

avocado with

lemon juice,

olive oil,

and Harissa

Sauce.

Mix Harissa

Sauce with

the cooking

juices from a

chicken stew

and pour

back over

the chicken

before

serving.

YIELD: 4 servings

AFRICAN BLENDS 33

EGYPT

DUKKAH

Dukkah is an Egyptian blend of spices and roasted nuts that gets its name from a

word meaning “to pound,” as the ingredients are crushed together after being roasted

to enhance their flavor. It is most commonly served with pita bread, which is dipped

in fruity green olive oil and then in dukkah and eaten as a snack. Other ingredients

that show up in dukkah (or dakka) are marjoram, mint, za’atar, chickpeas, cashews,

and coconut. Dukkah also seasons lamb stew in Egypt and has become quite trendy

in Australia because of immigrants from the Arabic world and a proliferation of

television cooking shows.

1 cup (135 g) whole hazelnuts,

skin on or off

1 cup (144 g) white sesame seeds

1 cup (145 g) pistachio meats

2 tablespoons (12 g) ground

coriander

2 tablespoons (12 g) ground cumin

2 tablespoons (36 g) fine sea salt

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground black

pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3). Spread the hazelnuts on a baking

pan and toast until light brown, about 12 minutes. If the hazelnuts have their skins

on, cool them to room temperature and then remove the skins by placing the nuts in

a clean towel, gathering the corners to make a kind of bag, and then rubbing off the

flakes of skin. Pour off the nuts and discard the skins. (It’s fine if a few pieces of skin

remain.)

2. Separately, spread the sesame seeds on a baking pan and toast until light brown.

Cool to room temperature. Chop the cooled hazelnuts and pistachios into small

chunks by hand with a knife or in the food processor. Combine the nuts, sesame

seeds, and spices.

3. Store the dukkah tightly covered, refrigerated or frozen, especially in hot weather,

because the nuts can easily turn rancid.

YIELD: About 31/2 cups (480 g)

PAN-FRIED HALLOUMI CHEESE WITH DUKKAH SPRINKLE

Halloumi, a specialty of Cyprus, is a brined cheese traditionally made from a mixture

of goat and sheep’s milk, though sometimes cow’s milk is used in commercial versions.

Because it is high in rennet, which coagulates cheese, and because the curd is cooked,

this cheese doesn’t melt when heated, so it is often fried or grilled. Like other Greek and

Turkish cheeses, halloumi is stored in brine and also freezes well. It is often flavored

with spearmint, which also acts as a preservative, very important in the days before

refrigeration was common. When cooked, halloumi makes a squeaky sound as it is

chewed. Here we pan-fry the cheese and top it with crunchy Dukkah for an easy mezze

(Middle Eastern starter).

34


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use as a

crunchy

coating for

chicken

and fish

fillets before

roasting.

1/2 pound (227 g) halloumi cheese,

preferably goat and sheep’s milk

cheese


olive oil

1/2 cup (70 g) Dukkah (page 34)

1. Drain the halloumi and slice it into 41/2-inch (11.4 cm) thick portions. Pat the cheese

slabs dry with paper towels.

2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat. When it is just beginning to

smoke, add the halloumi and cook for 2 minutes, or until well browned on the bottom.

Turn the halloumi slabs over with a spatula, avoiding splashing the hot oil. Brown on the

other side.

3. Transfer to serving plates. Sprinkle with the DDukkah and serve immediately.

Sprinkle over

green salad,

hummus,

or baba

ghanoush

just before

serving.

Sprinkle

on Greek

yogurt,

drizzled

first with

extra-virgin

olive oil, for

a savory

snack.

YIELD: 4 servings

AFRICAN BLENDS 35

ETHIOPIA

BERBERÉ

Berberé is the Amharic name for a spice mixture that is a basic flavoring in Ethiopia

and nearby Eritrea. This highly aromatic and extremely hot spice mixture is a blend

of Arabic and Indian flavors and has a coarse, earthy texture. Berberé is essential to

the family of Ethiopian stews called wats, made with meats, fish, chicken, legumes,

and vegetables. It may include plants that grow wild in Ethiopia such as korarima

(a cousin to cardamom and ginger) and long pepper (a cousin to black pepper) as

well as aromatic fenugreek, a type of legume, and ajwain (or carom seeds), which

resembles small caraway seeds and has a flavor like concentrated thyme. Long

pepper and chiles add pungency, and cassia, cardamom, and allspice add sweet

aroma. Note that decorticated cardamom is the inner cardamom seeds with the outer

pod shell, usually white or green, removed. This recipe is rounded and warm in flavor

with medium heat so that it blends well in many recipes.

2 tablespoons (12 g) fenugreek seeds


2 tablespoons (12 g) cumin seeds

4 teaspoons (8 g) ajwain

(carom seeds)

1 piece (2-inches, or 5 cm) cassia

cinnamon quill

6 long pepper pods or 2 tablespoons

(16 g) black peppercorns

2 teaspoons (6 g) whole allspice

berries

1 tablespoon (10 g) decorticated

cardamom

2 tablespoons (20 g) ground turmeric

2 tablespoons (12 g) ground ginger

2 teaspoons (6 g) ground or freshly

grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons (12 g) paprika

8 crushed bird’s eye chiles or

1 tablespoon (8 g) ground cayenne

or other powdered hot chile

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 cup (72 g) kosher salt

1. In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the fenugreek, coriander, cumin, and

ajwain until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking the pan so spices toast evenly.

Remove from the skillet, cool to room temperature, and reserve.

2. Crush the cinnamon into small pieces with a meat mallet or a hammer. Heat a dry

skillet over medium heat. Add the long pepper, allspice berries, crushed cinnamon,

and cardamom seeds and toast until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking frequently

so the spices toast evenly. Remove from the skillet, cool to room temperature, and

reserve.

3. Combine the toasted spices and grind or crush to a slightly coarse powder. Mix the

ground toasted spices with the turmeric, ginger, nutmeg, paprika, chiles, cloves, and

salt.

4. Store the berberé in a tightly sealed container in a dark place for up to 4 months.


36


did you know?

How to tell if you have true cinnamon: It’s rolled up like a rug and is friable and pale

pinkish beige. Its cousin, the coarser, more peppery cassia, is rolled from both sides like

a Torah scroll is woody and deep reddish brown and very hard.

ETHIOPIAN LENTIL STEW WITH BERBERÉ

The mellow flavors of berberé blend exceptionally well with legumes such as chickpeas,

lentils, and common beans. The kick of the aftertaste brings these sometimes stodgy

legumes to life. Here we use French green lentils because of their firm texture and nutty

flavor. These lentils will hold their shape when cooked and don’t turn mushy or mealy like

common brown or green lentils, which are better for soup.

1 pound (454 g) French green lentils

6 cups (1.4 L) water

Salt to taste

1 large yellow onion, finely diced

2 carrots, finely diced

1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable oil

2 tablespoons (16 g) grated fresh

gingerroot


2 tablespoons (16 g) Berberé (page 36)

2 cups (360 g) chopped plum tomatoes

1/2 cup (30 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Place the lentils and water in a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce

the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, then add the salt and continue cooking for 20

to 25 minutes, or until the lentils are tender but not mushy, skimming off white foam as

necessary.

2. Meanwhile, in a large Dutch oven, sauté the onion and carrot in the oil until softened,

about 5 minutes. Add the ginger, garlic, and berberé spice and sauté several minutes

longer, or until fragrant. Add the tomatoes, bring to a boil, and simmer for 10 minutes.

Drain the lentils and add to the pot. Simmer for 10 minutes to combine flavors, season

with more salt, parsley, and serve.

YIELD: 8 servings

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub Berberé

generously

on bonein

chicken

thighs with

skin. Roast at

high heat for

best flavor.

Use Berberé

to flavor a

seasonal

vegetable

medley,

cooking it

with onions

and garlic

before

adding other

vegetables.

Rub beef

skirt steak

with Berberé

before

grilling.

Season

stewed

legumes,

especially

lentils and

chickpeas,

with Berberé.

Toss

pumpkin

seeds with

olive oil,

Berberé,

and sea salt.

Toast in a

moderate

oven until

fragrant.

AFRICAN BLENDS 37

3

ASIAN

BLENDS

The immense and diverse region of East Asia is dominated

by Chinese culture. Its main typical spice blend is five-spice

powder. Chinese cinnamon (cassia), ginger, lesser galangal,

perilla, Sichuan pepper, star anise, wasabi, and water pepper

are all native to this region. In Japan, two related spice blends,

Shichimi Togarashi and nanami togarashi, are found. Shichimi

Togarashi, or seven spice shichi (“seven” in Japanese), contains

ground red chile, Japanese sancho, tangerine peel, nori (dried

seaweed), white poppy, black hemp or black sesame, and garlic.

Nanami togarashi is similar but emphasizes citrus zest.

Many of the world’s most prized spices are indigenous

to tropical Southeast Asia, including cloves, cubeb pepper,

galangal, Indonesian cinnamon, wild lime, lemongrass, long

pepper, mace, nutmeg, and Vietnamese coriander. The sweet

spices such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and mace are

mostly exported, while the others are essential to the region’s

numerous fresh curry pastes.

39

JAPAN

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Sprinkle

on grilled

or seared

seafood such

as scallops

or shrimp.

Sprinkle on

fried eggs.

Use to

season

gyudon, a

bowl of rice

topped with

beef, onion,

soy, mirin,

and, often, a

raw egg.

Sprinkle on

half-shell

seafood such

as clams and

oysters.

SHICHIMI TOGARASHI

Togarashi, the Japanese word for “chiles,” is a group of chile condiments that bring

out the clean, simple flavors of Japanese food. Shichimi Togarashi is also called

Japanese seven spice because seven ingredients are generally used. It works well

with fatty foods such as unagi (broiled eel), tempura-fried foods, shabu shabu (small

bits of food cooked in rich broth), noodle dishes, and yakitori (grilled dishes). Nanami

togarashi is a close cousin. Nori is sheets of dried seaweed, made by a process that

resembles papermaking and is available in Asian markets.

1/4 cup Japanese sancho (20 g) or

Sichuan peppercorns (36 g)

2 tablespoons (12 g) dried tangerine

(or orange) peel

4 teaspoons (2 g) crushed, flaked nori

4 teaspoons (11 g) black sesame

seeds

4 teaspoons (10 g) white poppy

seeds (substitute black hemp

seeds, if available, or white

sesame seeds)

2 tablespoons (16 g) ground dried red

chile powder, such as cayenne

4 teaspoons (12 g) granulated garlic

1. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the sancho or Sichuan peppercorns and

toast until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from the pan and reserve.

2. Using the same skillet, toast the tangerine peel, nori, sesame seeds, and poppy

seeds for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Remove from the pan and reserve.

3. Using the same skillet, toast the chile powder over medium heat for 30 seconds.

Cool and then combine with the toasted spices and the garlic.

4. Grind all together to a chunky consistency. Store in an airtight container,

refrigerated, for up to 1 month.

YIELD: About 1 cup (100 g)

JAPANESE UDON NOODLES WITH SHICHIMI TOGARASHI

Udon noodles are thick, smooth, chewy wheat flour noodles usually served in soup. Here

we combine the noodles with smoky shiitake mushrooms and juicy bok choy. A lastminute

sprinkling of shichimi togarashi, roasted peanuts, and scallions adds a burst of

flavor and welcome crunchy texture. Serve the noodles in large Asian-style soup bowls for

a one-dish, vegan-friendly meal.

1/2 pound (227 g) fresh shiitake

mushrooms

1 small head baby bok choy

1 cup (75 g) snow peas

1 package (1 pound, or 454 g) fresh or

precooked udon noodles

2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil,

divided

1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce

1 tablespoon (15 ml) rice vinegar

1 tablespoon (15 ml) Japanese toasted

sesame oil

1 teaspoon Shichimi Togarashi

3 tablespoons (27 g) chopped roasted

salted peanuts

3 or 4 scallions, thinly sliced

1. Remove the stems from the shiitakes and reserve, if desired, for another use, such as

mushroom stock. Slice the caps thinly and reserve. Trim the bok choy, slice thinly, and

reserve. Cut the snow peas into thin julienne strips and reserve.

40


2. When ready to finish the dish, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the

fresh udon noodles for about 2 minutes, or until just tender, then drain and reserve. If

using precooked noodles, dip the udon into the boiling water for 30 seconds to soften and

then drain.

3. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the oil over high heat in a wok or large skillet.

Add the shiitakes and sauté until crisp-tender, shaking the pan frequently. Remove from

the pan, add the snow peas, stir to wilt lightly, and reserve. Repeat with the remaining

1 tablespoon (15 ml) oil and the bok choy and remove from the skillet. Add the noodles,

soy sauce, vinegar, and sesame oil to the pan and heat to boiling, shaking to combine. At

the last minute, toss with the shiitakes, bok choy, and snow peas.

4. Transfer the noodles mixture to individual serving bowls. Sprinkle with the Shichimi

Togarashi, peanuts, and scallions and serve piping hot.


ASIAN BLENDS 41

JAPAN

GOMASIO

Gomasio is a simple Japanese sesame and sea salt mix also found in Korea.

Classically, it is made using a special Japanese grooved ceramic mortar with a

wooden pestle called a suribachi. It is an essential seasoning in the Japanese-based

macrobiotic cooking. In Japan, gomasio is an idiomatic term for someone with

mixed white and black hair, similar to the English “salt and pepper” hair. It always

accompanies osekihan, Japanese adzuki beans and rice.

1/4 cup (72 g) fine sea salt 3 cups (432 g) sesame seeds, either

white (hulled) or natural brown

1. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat until almost smoking. Add the salt and roast

until the salt turns gray in color. Remove from the pan and reserve. Add the sesame

seeds to the same pan and toast over low heat until the seeds are fragrant, evenly

browned, and start to pop, shaking the pan often. Remove from the pan and keep

stirring until the popping stops. Cool to room temperature.

2. Combine the roasted salt and sesame seeds and either process in a spice grinder to a

slightly chunky consistency or crush in a mortar and pestle. The gomasio should be light

and sandy, not oily or pasty.

3. Store in a tightly closed container, preferably glass or tin, and keep in a cool, dry

place for up to 1 month.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Sprinkle on

steamed fish,

steamed

vegetables,

or rice.

Use to

season

green and

vegetable

salads.

42


JAPANESE CHICKEN MEATBALL SKEWERS

WITH GOMASIO SPRINKLE

These tender meatballs with their savory-sweet glaze work well as a party appetizer or

served over steamed rice for a main dish. Prepare the meatballs and skewers up to two

days before grilling, keeping them covered and refrigerated until ready to cook. Dark

meat chicken will have the best flavor and enough fat to keep the meatballs moist, but it’s

important to choose top-quality chicken, preferably grain-fed, for its milder, nutty flavor.

A final sprinkle of Gomasio and sliced scallions lends nutty flavor and contrasting texture.

FOR GLAZE

1/4 cup (60 ml) cup soy sauce

1/4 cup (60 ml) mirin

2 tablespoons (30 ml) rice vinegar

2 tablespoons (12 g) chopped fresh

gingerroot

1 large clove garlic, chopped

2 teaspoons (6 g) whole white

peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon chile oil or ground cayenne

FOR MEATBALLS

2 pounds (908 g) ground chicken,

preferably dark meat

1 egg white

3/4 cup (83 g) Japanese panko

breadcrumbs

1 large shallot, minced


gingerroot

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 tablespoon (15 ml) Japanese roasted

sesame oil

Oil, for the grill

1/4 cup (44 g) Gomasio

1/2 bunch scallions, thinly sliced

TO MAKE THE GLAZE:

1. In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, mirin, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and

peppercorns and bring to a boil. Cook over medium heat until the sauce has thickened,

5 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a wire sieve, add the chile oil, and

reserve.

TO MAKE THE MEATBALLS:

1. Soak sixteen 8-inch (20 cm) bamboo skewers in water to cover for at least 30 minutes.

2. Combine the meatball ingredients (through the sesame oil) in a large bowl and mix

well by hand. Form the mixture into 32 meatballs. Thread the meatballs onto the skewers,

without crowding. Flatten each meatball to make a puck shape. Arrange the skewers on a

parchment- or wax paper–lined tray. Reserve, refrigerated, until ready to grill.

3. Preheat a grill with a cover until no fire remains, just white coals. Prepare the grate by

wiping with a paper towel soaked in a little vegetable oil. Grill the skewers indirectly until

grill marks form, then turn over and grill until the meatballs are cooked through but still

juicy. Brush with the glaze while grilling, then turn over and repeat, grilling for about 4

minutes on each side.

4. Alternatively, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4) and preheat a large

cast-iron skillet or grill pan. Sear the skewers on the stove top, brush all sides with glaze,

then finish in the oven until cooked through.

5. Transfer the skewers to a platter, sprinkle with the Gomasio and sliced scallions, and

serve immediately.

YIELD: 8 servings

ASIAN BLENDS 43

CHINA

FIVE-SPICE POWDER

This highly aromatic sweet-spicy mixture enhances beef, chicken, noodle dishes,

and especially fatty meats such as pork and duck. Five-spice powder is quite potent,

so be judicious. The blend is a culinary cousin to French Quatre Épices (page 80),

though the two developed independently. Some versions include ground licorice root

and ginger.

1/2 cup (30 g) whole star anise pods

1/2 cup (80 g) fennel seeds

3 tablespoons (24 g) Sichuan

peppercorns

2 tablespoons (12 g) crushed cassia

cinnamon quills

2 teaspoons (3 g) whole cloves

Combine all the spices and grind or crush to a fine powder in a spice grinder or mortar

and pestle.


SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Use a hammer

or mallet to

crush whole

cassia cinnamon

quills into

smaller pieces.

One 3-inch

(7.5 cm) quill

will yield about

2 tablespoons

(12 g).

44


VIETNAMESE CHICKEN BAHN-MI SANDWICH

WITH CHINESE FIVE SPICE

This classic Vietnamese sandwich is a legacy of the years of French colonialism in

Indochina and combines French ingredients such as baguette bread, butter lettuce, and

mayonnaise with Vietnamese ingredients such as fish sauce, Vietnamese basil, pickled

daikon, and Chinese Five-Spice Powder to season the chicken. In Vietnam, the sandwich is

usually served on a single-serving soft baguette with pointed ends and thinner crust than

French-style baguettes. A hero, submarine, or hoagie roll makes a good substitute.

1/2 cup (120 g) mayonnaise, homemade

or store-bought

2 French baguettes, split open

horizontally

3 jalapeño chiles, sliced lengthwise

paper thin, seeds removed

1/2 sweet onion, sliced paper thin

1 cucumber, preferably seedless, cut

into long spears

1 recipe Spiced Chicken for Banh Mi,

sliced

1 recipe Marinated Daikon and Carrots

1 large handful fresh cilantro leaves

1 large handful Vietnamese or Thai

basil, or mint leaves

1 head butter lettuce, leaves picked

1. Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on the bottom layer of bread and top with the

chiles, onion, and cucumber.

2. Arrange the sliced chicken on top. Top with the marinated daikon and carrots, cilantro,

basil, and lettuce. Spread the top layer of bread with a thin layer of mayonnaise.

3. Close the sandwich, press together to compress, and cut into 4 sections for each loaf.

Secure with toothpicks and serve.


SPICED CHICKEN FOR BANH MI

2 pounds (908 g) boneless, skinless

chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat


1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce


2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar

1 tablespoon (7 g) Five-Spice Powder

(page 44)

In a bowl, combine the chicken with the remaining ingredients and marinate for at least

2 hours. Drain, discarding the marinade. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, such as

cast iron, then pan-sear the chicken on both sides until thoroughly cooked. Cool and slice

thinly against the grain.

YIELD: 2 pounds (908 g), enough for 8 sandwiches

MARINATED DAIKON AND CARROTS

1 large daikon root, peeled

1/2 pound (227 g) carrots, peeled

3/4 cup (180 ml) rice vinegar

2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

Julienne-cut the daikon and carrot into matchsticks using a French or Japanese

mandoline. Add to a bowl. Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and salt. Toss half the

marinade with the vegetables, reserving the remainder. Allow the vegetables to marinate,

stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Drain in a colander and combine with the remaining

half of the marinade. Reserve.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

braised beef

short ribs

with tomato

and soy.

Add to stirfry

sauces.

Rub pork

tenderloin

with oil,

salt, and

Five-Spice

Powder

before

roasting.

Add to

dumpling

filling,

especially

beef, pork,

cabbage, or

mushrooms.

YIELD: 1 pound (454 g), enough for 8 sandwiches

ASIAN BLENDS 45

THAILAND

THAI CURRY PASTES

Thai curry pastes are a highly fragrant mélange of pungent dried fish or fish sauce

(fermented anchovy liquid) and fermented shrimp paste ground with fresh green chiles,

fragrant leaves and zests (lemongrass, coriander, Thai basil, wild lime leaf, and the

grated zest of the bumpy wild lime fruit), rhizomes (galangal, turmeric, and fingerroot—a

somewhat medicinal tasting finger-shaped rhizome, which is widely used in the Javanese

cuisine of Indonesia), and members of the allium family (especially pink shallots and

garlic). Yellow or Massaman curry paste comes from the south of Thailand near Malaysia.

It has a strong Indian influence in the use of spices such as cardamom and cloves. It

usually contains coconut, roasted peanuts or cashews, cardamom pods, star anise, palm

sugar, fish sauce, chiles, and tamarind. Green curry paste is usually the hottest because of

all the fresh green chiles it contains. Red curry paste is full-bodied, fragrant, and milder.

46


THAI RED CURRY PASTE

The galangal (or galingale) called for here is a first cousin to ginger and an important

seasoning in Southeast Asian cooking, used to flavor curries, soups, and stews. It is

more pungent than ginger, with a sharper bite and a tangy flavor reminiscent of hot

mustard. Fresh galangal is occasionally found in natural foods and Asian markets, and

may also be called laos (its Indonesian name). Substitute fresh gingerroot if galangal is

not available.

4 dried New Mexico chiles (substitute

dried mild red chiles such as ancho

or California)

6 dried whole small hot red chiles

(such as arbol or bird’s eye)

2 tablespoons (10 g) coriander seeds

2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil

1/2 cup (80 g) chopped shallots

1/4 cup (40 g) sliced garlic

4 to 6 wild lime leaves, or the zest of

wild lime fruit or lime

1 large stalk lemongrass, tough outer

layers discarded, thinly sliced

1 section (2 inches, or 5 cm)

fresh galangal or gingerroot,

peeled and chopped

1 small handful cilantro root

(optional but very good; look for

this in Asian markets)

1 piece (1 inch, or 2.5 cm) fresh

turmeric root (sold in season in

Asian markets) or 1 tablespoon

(10 g) ground turmeric

2 tablespoons (30 g) Thai shrimp

paste

1 lime or wild lime, juiced

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (12 g) fine sea salt

1. Trim both kinds of chiles and discard the stems and seeds. Soak the chiles in warm

water to cover until soft and pliable, about 30 minutes.

2. Heat a skillet over medium heat without any oil. Add the coriander seeds and toast

until lightly browned and fragrant. Remove from the skillet, cool to room temperature,

and grind to a slightly chunky powder. In the same skillet, heat the oil and cook the

shallots and sliced garlic over moderate heat until lightly browned, about 8 minutes,

stirring often.

3. Combine the wild lime leaves, lemongrass, galangal, cilantro root, and turmeric

root and finely mince together.

4. Drain the chiles, reserving the liquid. Using a food processor, purée the chiles to a

chunky paste, and then add the ground coriander, shrimp paste, roasted shallots and

garlic, and the wild lime mixture, adding about 1 cup (235 ml) of the reserved chile

soaking liquid as needed to process.

5. Remove the mixture from the processor and add the lime juice, sugar, and sea salt.

Transfer to a tightly sealed container and store, refrigerated, for up to 1 month.

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

If desired, freeze

the curry paste

in ice cube trays.

Once frozen,

transfer the

frozen curry

paste cubes to

a tightly sealed

container and

store frozen for

up to 4 months.

This is an easy

way to use

just as much

curry paste as

needed.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to season

fish, shellfish,

chicken, and

vegetable curries.

Finish with rich

unsweetened coconut

milk for a creamy,

nondairy sauce.

Add a tablespoon or two (15 to

30 g) to mayonnaise and use as

a dip for vegetable crudités or

crunchy fried-shrimp crackers.

ASIAN BLENDS 47

THAI SCALLOPS IN COCONUT–RED CURRY SAUCE

This impressive, quickly prepared meal accents dense, sweet sea scallops with warm,

spicy red curry paste scented with orange zest. Chicken breast cubes, shrimp, or firm fish,

such as albacore tuna or swordfish, make good substitutes. The potent flavor of the red

curry paste is tempered with coconut cream to produce a rosy-pink sauce that’s aromatic

and spicy but not too fiery.

3 shallots, finely chopped

1 section (2 inches, or 5 cm) fresh

galangal (substitute ginger),

peeled and grated

4 tablespoons (60 ml) vegetable oil,

divided

1/4 cup (62 g) Thai Red Curry Paste

(page 47)

1 orange or tangerine, zested and juiced

1 cup (235 ml) rich unsweetened

coconut cream

Sea salt and ground white pepper

2 pounds (908 g) large sea scallops,

trimmed of hard side muscle

1 handful Thai basil, leaves shredded

(or substitute basil mixed with mint)

1 bunch scallions, sliced on the

diagonal

Jasmine rice, for serving

1. In a medium skillet over low heat, cook

the shallots and galangal in 2 tablespoons

(30 ml) of the oil until softened, about 10

minutes. Stir in the Thai Red Curry Paste

and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes,

stirring constantly. Add the orange zest

and juice, coconut cream, and salt to

taste. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and

simmer until the liquid is slightly reduced

and thickened. Reserve.

2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons

(30 ml) oil in a wok or large skillet over

high heat until it shimmers. Season the

scallops with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a large

pinch of pepper. Add the scallops to the

pan and sear on one side until browned,

then turn over and sear again until barely

opaque, about 3 minutes total.

3. Stir the Thai basil into the curry

sauce and spoon onto serving plates.

Arrange the scallops on top, sprinkle with

the scallions, and serve immediately

accompanied by cooked jasmine rice.

YIELD: 4 servings

48


THAI GREEN CURRY PASTE

This fresh-tasting curry paste gets its heat from lots of small hot green chiles; its

fragrance from lemongrass and lots of fresh green herbs such as cilantro, mint,

and Thai basil; its earthiness from shallots and garlic; its pungency from fish sauce

and shrimp paste; and its slightly medicinal pungency from galangal root. Though

unrelated, its green heat is reminiscent of spicy green Yemenite Zhoug (page 128).

3 stalks lemongrass, inner layers

minced (see “How to Prepare

Lemongrass,” below)

6 Thai green chiles, seeded

and thinly sliced

4 serrano or 2 jalapeño chiles,

seeded and thinly sliced

4 large shallots, sliced

6 large cloves garlic, sliced

2-inch (5 cm) section fresh galangal

or gingerroot, grated

(about 2 ounces, or 56 g)

1/4 cup (30 g) chopped cilantro roots

(optional, available in Asian

markets)

1 bunch cilantro, leaves plus small

stems, chopped

1 bunch Thai basil, leaves plus small

stems, chopped

1 bunch spearmint leaves, chopped


1 tablespoon (6 g) ground coriander

6 tablespoons (90 ml) Asian fish sauce

1 tablespoon (15 g) Asian shrimp paste

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground white pepper

2 wild limes, zested and juiced

(available in Thai markets) or juice

and grated zest of 1 lime

Place all the ingredients in a food processor, chopper, or blender and process to form a

thick, chunky paste. Store in a tightly sealed container, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks,

or freeze for up to 3 months.


How to Prepare Lemongrass

Choose moist, fragrant lemongrass stalks that are firm, full, and pale green in color—an

indication of freshness. To prepare lemongrass, wash and then trim off the root ends

with a sharp knife. Peel off and discard two or three woody outer layers or add to soup

stock. Use only the relatively tender heart of the stalk—4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from

the bottom up to the point where the leaves start to branch out. (If the lemongrass is

very dry, soak in warm water.)

Smash the trimmed lemongrass stalks with a mallet or the side of a heavy knife to

release the essential oils. Add to soup broths and other liquids to infuse, and remove

before serving. Thinly slice tender inner hearts and then chop finely by hand or in the

food processor. (You must slice the lemongrass before processing to cut the fibers.)

Wrap whole or trimmed lemongrass tightly with foil or plastic wrap and store for up to

2 weeks in the refrigerator, or freeze chopped lemongrass in a tightly sealed container

for up to 3 months.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to a

curry sauce

with chicken,

pork,

beef, tofu,

mushrooms,

potatoes, or

vegetables

cooked in a

little oil. Add

liquid (water

or stock)

and simmer

together until

fully cooked.

Just before

serving,

swirl in rich

unsweetened

coconut milk.

Add a

tablespoon

or two (15

to 30 g) to

mayonnaise

and use

to dip

vegetable

crudités.

Add a

spoonful

to chicken,

tuna, or

roasted

eggplant

salad.

ASIAN BLENDS 49

THAI LEMONGRASS SHRIMP

This quick-cooking dish is infused with Thai flavors of lemongrass, ginger, and hot,

herbal green curry paste. Now that Asian ingredients such as fresh lemongrass,

coconut cream, and gingerroot are easily found even at the supermarket, this fragrant

sauté is easy to make. Choose wild American white or pink shrimp or Mexican white

shrimp for firm texture and sweet flavor. Avoid stronger and mushier black tiger

shrimp. Serve over steamed jasmine rice, which will soak up all the delicious juices.

3 pounds (1.4 kg) medium mild white

or pink shrimp, preferably in the

shell and head-on


3 large shallots, chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

2 stalks lemongrass, inner layers

finely minced

1 cup (235 ml) dry white wine

1/4 cup (62 g) Thai Green Curry Paste

(page 49)

1 can (13.5 ounces, or 378 g) rich

unsweetened coconut cream,

preferably Thai

1/4 cup (20 g) grated fresh coconut or

shredded unsweetened coconut

1 small handful Thai basil,

leaves shredded

Jasmine rice, for serving

1. Devein the shrimp if desired—this is not usually necessary if the shrimp are smaller—

leaving the last tail shell section on.

2. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large skillet, preferably nonstick. Add the shrimp

and cook for about 2 minutes, or until partially opaque. Add the shallots, garlic, and

lemongrass and sauté for about 1 minute, or until the shrimp are just cooked through and

lightly curled up. Remove the shrimp from the pan and reserve. Add the wine to the skillet

and cook over high heat until the liquid has mostly cooked away.

3. Add the Thai Green Curry Paste, coconut cream, and shredded coconut. Bring the

mixture to a boil, and cook over moderately high heat until thickened enough for bubbles

to appear all over the surface, about 3 minutes. Just before serving, return the shrimp to

the pan, toss to combine with the sauce, and add the Thai basil. Serve immediately over

rice.

YIELD: 6 servings

50


ASIAN BLENDS 51

4

LATIN-

AMERICAN

BLENDS

The five species of chile, Capsicum frutescens, C. chinense,

C. baccatum, C. pubescens, and C. annuum, which may have

originated in the Amazon, altered the cuisines of Africa, India,

Southeast Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean in fiery

African spice blends, Indian masalas, and Southeast Asian curry

pastes. The most famed spice blends are the colorful moles of

Puebla and Oaxoca, Mexico.

Allspice was introduced to Europe from the Caribbean islands

and is essential to Jamaica’s jerk spice blend. Grenada raises

20 percent of the world’s nutmeg, while Guatemala is a major

exporter of cardamom. Pungent epazote and sweetly fragrant

vanilla beans are indigenous to Mexico, while pink peppercorns

and lemon verbena are native to South America. Deep red

annatto, the base of Yucatán’s Achiote Paste, is mainly produced

in Peru and Brazil.

53

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Dark red annatto

seeds come

from a tropical

evergreen tree

native to Latin

America. They

are used mainly

for the intense

red-orange color

they impart to

food. Look for

the brightest,

lipstick-red

ground annatto,

as the color

varies greatly

among brands.

The whole seeds

may be used but

they are quite

hard and must

be crushed with

a hammer or

mallet.

Mexican

oregano is a

close relative

of lemon

verbena, with

an intense but

lemony aroma

of oregano with

a hint of licorice

sweetness. It

is preferred in

Mexico over the

more resinous,

slightly harsh

Mediterranean

oregano.

YUCATÁN

ACHIOTE PASTE

This thick, deep red seasoning paste, also known as recado colorado, originated in

the Yucatán, Mexico. It is best rubbed on chicken, pork, fish, or seafood, to which it

imparts a deep red color and warm, mild flavor. Achiote paste is also sold in blocks

ready to be mixed with bitter orange juice, a mixture of orange and lime juice, or mild

vinegar. Bitter orange juice comes from bigarade, or Seville oranges, the same type of

oranges used to make marmalade. It is grown throughout the Mediterranean and is

common in Cuban and Latin-American cooking. The fresh fruit may occasionally be

found in specialty markets in its winter season.

1 head (12 to 16 large cloves) garlic

3 tablespoons (15 g) coriander seeds


1 tablespoon (8 g) black peppercorns

2 teaspoons (6 g) allspice berries

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 cup (235 ml) bitter orange juice,

or 3/4 cup (180 ml) orange juice

and 1/4 cup (60 ml) lime juice



annatto

1 tablespoon (2 g) dried Mexican or

Mediterranean oregano

Peel off the outer layers of skin from the garlic. Separate into individual cloves with

their skin on. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat and add the garlic. Roast until

lightly charred, remove from the skillet, cool, and then peel. Add the coriander

seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns, allspice, and cloves to the same skillet. Toast

lightly, shaking the skillet, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Cool the spices to room

temperature and then grind in a spice grinder or crush using a mortar and pestle.

Combine the charred garlic, spices, orange juice, salt, and annatto in a food

processor. Process to make a thick, wet paste. Transfer to a glass jar and store,

refrigerated, for up to 2 months or freeze for up to 6 months.


QUESADILLAS WITH CHICKEN ADOBO,

TOMATILLOS, AND GOUDA

Achiote Paste flavors and tenderizes the chicken in this dish and imparts its warm red

color. Chicken thigh is preferable because it will stay moist even when cooked over high

heat. This is one place where it’s especially important to spring for high-quality, grain-fed,

pastured or free-range chicken, as the fat contained in the thighs picks up off flavors from

fish meal and growth hormones used to get commercial chickens to gain weight quickly.

The chicken may be made separately several days ahead of time and then assembled and

topped with the tomatillo salsa.

54


LATIN-AMERICAN BLENDS 55

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub over

pork roast

or suckling

pig and slowcook

for the

Yucatán dish

of Mayan

origin,

cochinita

pibil.

Rub on the

skin and

inside the

carcass of a

turkey and

roast.

Mix with corn

bread and

use to make

Yucatánstyle

turkey

stuffing.

Rub on the

skin and

inside slits

cut into the

skin of whole

fish like red

snapper or

sea bass and

then roast

at a high

temperature.

FOR CHICKEN ADOBO

1/4 cup (75 g) Achiote Paste

2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oíl

2 tablespoons (30 ml) cider vinegar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 pound (454 g) boneless, skinless

chicken thighs

FOR SALSA

2 firm, ripe tomatoes, diced

2 tomatillos, diced

1/2 sweet onion, diced

1 serrano chile, thinly sliced

1 lime, juiced

1/4 cup (4 g) chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon kosher salt

FOR QUESADILLAS

4 ounces (112 g) Gouda, Chihuahua, or

Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

8 to 10 corn tortillas, (6 inches,

or 15 cm)

1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 ml)

canola oil, for griddle

1/4 cup (60 ml) Mexican crema

or sour cream

1/2 cup (65 g) pumpkin seeds

(pepitas)

TO MAKE THE CHICKEN ADOBO:

1. Blend together the achiote, oil, vinegar, oregano, and salt in a large bowl. Add the

chicken, turn to coat, cover with plastic, and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

2. When ready to cook the chicken, preheat a grill and grill over indirect heat until the

chicken is opaque and thoroughly cooked. Or preheat the oven 425°F (220°C, or gas mark

7) and roast for about 35 minutes, or broil under high heat, turning once, for about 20

minutes, until the chicken is opaque. Cool and then shred the chicken.

TO MAKE THE SALSA:

Combine the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, chile, lime juice, cilantro, and salt in a bowl and

set aside.

TO MAKE THE QUESADILLAS:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4).

2. Place a portion of shredded cheese on one half of each tortilla. Top with a portion

of chicken and sprinkle with more cheese. Fold over and press closed to form a

half-moon shape. Preheat a cast-iron griddle or skillet, cover with a thin layer of oil, and

heat until just starting to smoke.

3. Cook the quesadillas on both sides on the griddle until lightly charred, then transfer

to a metal baking pan. Bake just long enough to melt the cheese, about 8 minutes. Top

with the reserved salsa and dollops of crema and sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds. Serve

immediately.


Combine

with

quartered

mushrooms

and roast

at a high

temperature.

56


MEXICO

MOLE

Mole is a group of complex Mexican sauces combining twenty-five or more spices and

other ingredients from the Old and New Worlds. Because of this, many companies in

Mexico, especially Oaxaca—mole central—make and pack the sauce for sale in glass

jars. Mole comes in many versions, including mole amarillo (yellow mole), mole verde

(green mole), mole poblano (from Puebla), and mole negro (black mole) from Oaxaca.

All include at least one type of chile, often ancho, pasilla, mulato, or chipotle.

Other ingredients include sweet spices such as cinnamon from Sri Lanka and

allspice from Jamaica; seeds and nuts such as almond and sesame from the Old World

and peanuts and pumpkin seeds from the New World; sweet dried fruits (e.g. raisins

and prunes) from the Old World; aromatic vegetables such as onion and garlic from

sthe Old World; and tomato and tomatillo from the New World. Old World herbs

(e.g. cilantro and parsley), New World herbs (e.g. hoja santa and epazote), starchy New

World thickeners (e.g. plantain and corn masa), and even unsweetened chocolate.

The many ingredients are roasted and ground into a paste using a stone molcajete

(mortar), a labor-intensive job that in the past involved multiple generations of

women in a family when everything was done by hand. Today, while still challenging

to make, the work goes much faster with the help of a licuadora (blender)—

standard in many Mexican kitchens. Families often have their own recipe for mole

that is prepared in large quantities for celebrations and holidays. Mole poblano is

traditionally served with turkey, while other moles are served with chicken or pork.

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

The palm-size,

deep-veined

velvety leaves

of hoja santa

Piper sanctum

come from the

peppercorn

family and grow

abundantly in

south-central

Mexico.

To make an

authentic mole

negro, stem,

seed, and devein

the chiles,

reserving the

seeds. Prepare

the chile flesh as

directed in the

recipe, page 58.

Preheat a heavy

cast-iron skillet,

until smoking.

Add the seeds

and toast in

the skillet until

charred deep

brown. Avoid

breathing the

smoke. Cool,

then grind to

a fine powder,

avoiding

breathing the

fumes, and

blend with

the finished

sauce.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Make extra of

the toasted

dry spice

mix above

(cinnamon,

aniseed,

cumin,

peppercorns,

and allspice)

and use to

season pork

roast, turkey,

squash,

or sweet

potatoes.

Use extra

sauce to

flavor the

filling for

tamales

using

cornhusk or

banana leaf

wrappings.

Add mole

sauce to the

filling for

enchiladas,

called

enmoladas.

Serve Mole

Negro over

eggs.

MOLE NEGRO

Charring all parts of the chile, including the seeds and ribs, gives this deep, dark spice

sauce its characteristic, almost black color, but should only be attempted in a kitchen

with really good ventilation. It’s a good idea to wear a painter’s mask to keep from

breathing the strong fumes. The anise-like flavor of hoja santa leaves, is essential to

its authentic flavor, but we have used more aniseed as a substitute.

4 ounces (112 g) dried guajillo chiles

4 ounces (112 g) dried mulato negro

chiles

1/2 cup (2 ounces, or 56 g)

blanched almonds

1/2 cup (2 ounces, or 56 g) sesame

seeds

1 section (2 inches, or 5 cm) canela

(true cinnamon), crushed

2 tablespoons (15 g) aniseed

1 tablespoon (10 g) cumin seeds

2 teaspoons (6 g) black peppercorns

2 teaspoons (6 g) whole allspice


1/2 cup lard, bacon fat, or duck fat

(112 g) or vegetable oil (120 ml),

divided

2 stale corn tortillas, roughly chopped

1 small white onion, diced

4 large cloves garlic, chopped

3 ounces (84 g) roasted peanuts

1/2 cup (3 ounces, or 84 g) prunes

2 ounces (scant 1/2 cup, or 75 g)

dark raisins

2 hoja santa leaves (see

Spicemaster’s Note) or

1 tablespoon (7.5 g) more

aniseed (if using more aniseed,

add with the prior aniseed)


1 small very ripe plantain, cut

into smaller pieces

4 ounces (112 g) unsweetened

(baker’s) chocolate, chopped

1. Remove the stems, seeds, and ribs from the chiles. Reserve the seeds if desired

(see Spicemaster’s Note, page 57). Place the flesh in a bowl with warm water to cover

and soak for 30 minutes, or until soft and pliable. Reserve the soaking liquid.

2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3). Spread the almonds

and sesame seeds on a baking tray and roast until medium brown, about 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven, cool, and reserve.

3. Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the cinnamon, aniseed, cumin,

peppercorns, allspice, and cloves. Toast until brown and fragrant, about 3 minutes.

Cool to room temperature. Grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Reserve.

4. In a medium skillet over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the lard and

brown the tortillas until deep brown. Remove from the pan and reserve. Add

2 tablespoons (28 g) more lard to the pan and cook the onions until deep golden

brown but not at all burned and bitter. Add the garlic, stir to combine, and cook until

the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes longer. Turn off the heat and reserve.

5. Combine the soaked chiles, peanuts, almonds, sesame seeds, ground spices,

onion mix, prunes, raisins, hoja santa, salt, and plantain in the jar of a blender and

process to a thick, smooth paste, adding the chile soaking liquid to blend.

6. Transfer the resulting spice paste to a large, heavy Dutch oven along with the remaining

1/4 cup (56 g) lard. Fry the paste over medium heat until it is thick enough to hold its shape

and the fat rises to the surface, about 20 minutes, noting that it will spatter. Stir in the

chocolate and remove from the heat. Stir in powder from reserved seeds, if using.

7. Cool the mole. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate up to 3 months or freeze.

YIELD: About 2 quarts (1.8 kg)

58


TURKEY THIGHS IN OAXACAN MOLE NEGRO

The word mole comes from the Nahuatl word molli, meaning “concoction” or “mixture,”

and that it certainly is with all the many ingredients from both the Old World and the New.

There are strong Spanish influences in this dish with the use of almonds and sesame seeds

to thicken the sauce. Exotic spices such as true cinnamon, aniseed, cumin seeds, black

peppercorns, and cloves were brought by the Arabs to Spain; the Spanish, in turn, carried

them to Mexico. The allspice is native to the New World in Jamaica.


Moist, dark, richly flavored meat from the thighs of the turkey, a bird native to Mexico,

where its name is guajolote, is put to excellent use here. Turkey thighs range in size and

weight from about 1/2 pound (227 g) to more than 2 pounds (908 g) each, so adjust the

cooking times accordingly.

2 quarts (2 L) turkey or chicken stock

1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt

2 bay leaves

5 pounds (2.3 kg) bone-in turkey thighs

(3 or 4 medium)

2 cups (450 g) mole negro (page XX)

1/2 cup (70 g) pumpkin seeds, for garnish

Cooked posole or rice, for serving

1. Bring the stock, salt, and bay leaves to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the

turkey thighs, return to the boil, and then reduce the heat to a bare simmer. Cook until

the meat is tender when pierced, about 1 hour, and then remove the pot from the heat.

Allow the thighs to cool for about 30 minutes and then remove from the pot, reserving the

liquid. Remove and discard the turkey skin and bones (or use to make another batch of

turkey stock). Cut the turkey meat into bite-size chunks.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3). Strain 1 cup (235 ml) of the poaching

liquid (save the remainder for another use, such as soup or turkey gravy) and combine

with the mole and cut-up turkey in an ovenproof casserole. Cover and bake for 1 hour, or

until the turkey is fork-tender.

3. Sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds just before serving, accompanied by cooked posole

or rice.

YIELD: 8 servings

60


MOLE VERDE

Tart and tangy green tomatillos, also known as husk tomatoes, are closely related

to the ground cherries that grow abundantly in Pennsylvania. They are essential

for this sauce. Like many Spanish sauces, this green mole is thickened with nuts or

seeds—here, green pumpkin seeds, native to the New World. The technique of frying

a sauce in lard is typical of Mexican cooking. The green herb purée added at the end

of cooking brightens the color, a technique also used in French cooking.

1/2 pound (227 g) green pumpkin seeds

2 tablespoons (16 g) sesame seeds

2 teaspoons (6 g) cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon whole allspice

1 section (2 inches, or 5 cm) true

cinnamon quill, crushed

4 whole cloves

1/4 cup lard (56 g) or olive oil (60 ml),

divided

1 small white onion, roughly chopped


1 pound (454 g) tomatillos, husk

removed, quartered

2 green serrano chiles, trimmed

and seeded

1 green poblano chile, trimmed

and seeded

1 cup (235 ml) chicken or

vegetable stock

1 handful baby spinach leaves

1 handful cilantro sprigs

1 handful Italian parsley sprigs

2 sprigs fresh epazote or

1 tablespoon (3 g) dried epazote

(optional)

1 tablespoon (18 g) fine sea salt

1. Heat a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat and toast the

pumpkin seeds, stirring constantly, until they have puffed up and begin to pop, 3 to

5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cool to room temperature, and reserve.

2. In the same skillet, toast the sesame seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns, allspice,

cinnamon, and cloves, shaking the pan often, until lightly browned and fragrant,

about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature, then grind to

a fine powder in a spice grinder, blender, or mortar and pestle.

3. In the same skillet, heat 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the lard and cook the onion and

garlic until softened, then add the tomatillos and both kinds of chiles and cook until

soft and the sauce has thickened, about 10 minutes.

4. Combine the pumpkin seeds, ground spices, onion mix, and chicken stock in the

jar of a blender and blend to a smooth paste. Scrape out the mixture, transfer to the

skillet, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons (28 g) lard. Cook over low heat until the

sauce has thickened, stirring frequently, about 20 minutes. Note that the sauce will

splatter, so cook over low heat.

5. Meanwhile, place the spinach, cilantro, parsley, and epazote leaves in the blender

and blend to a smooth paste, adding enough cold water to blend as needed.

6. Combine the herb purée with the cooked sauce to make a bright green mole verde.

Season with salt and reserve. Reblend for a smoother sauce.

YIELD: About 6 cups (1.4 kg)

did you know?

Eighty percent of Sri Lanka’s exports of true cinnamon go to Mexico, where its floral

scent and subtle, adaptable flavor is essential to blending complex moles and adobos.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Spoon

dollops onto

tortilla chips,

top with

queso anejo

(or another

white

crumbling

cheese such

as feta), and

bake.

Spoon

onto grilled

chicken

breasts.

Spoon onto

grilled fish.

Use as a

sauce for

chicken

or cheese

enchiladas.


POLLO EN MOLE VERDE

The classic combination combines lighter green herbal mole verde with chicken. Chicken

thighs are moist and full of flavor, but it’s important to purchase top-quality grain-fed or

pastured chicken, which will have thighs that are milder in flavor. Because the thighs are

fattier, they pick up off flavors easily. Low-priced commercial chicken is often fed with fish

meal so the birds put on weight quickly—this “fishy” flavor transfers to the meat. If you

prefer chicken breasts, poach them, but be extra careful not to overcook them, as white

meat can get dry.

3 cups (705 ml) chicken stock

3 pounds (1.4 kg) chicken

thighs on the bone

2 cups (450 g) Mole Verde (page 61)

Salt

1. Heat the chicken stock to a simmer in a wide, shallow pot. Add the chicken thighs and

poach over low heat until the chicken is tender, about 20 minutes, turning the chicken

over once so it cooks evenly. Remove the chicken from the liquid and pull off and discard

the skin. Pour off and reserve the cooking liquid.

2. Place the cooked chicken back into the pot and spoon the Mole Verde on top. Cook

over low heat until the sauce is bubbling hot, adding a little of the chicken poaching liquid

as needed to make a thick but pourable and creamy sauce. Season with salt.

3. Serve immediately with tortillas, posole (hominy), or rice.

YIELD: 6 servings

62


BRAZIL

TEMPERO BAIANO

This hot and spicy Brazilian seasoning blend comes from the African-influenced

province of Bahia, famed for its bold, complex cuisine incorporating West African

elements such as black-eyed peas, dende (palm) oil, peanuts, piri piri peppers, and

dried shrimp. Every Brazilian kitchen (every cook, really) has its own interpretation,

but most versions include white pepper, oregano, parsley, and various chiles. Some

versions contain turmeric, nutmeg, and cumin, while others are more herbal and

might also include marjoram, Mexican oregano, basil, and bay leaves.

1/4 cup (24 g) ground cumin


coriander


2 tablespoons (12 g) ground white

pepper

1 tablespoon (8 g) ground piri piri or

cayenne pepper

1/4 cup (8 g) dried oregano

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and transfer to a tightly sealed storage

container. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.


BRAZILIAN BLACK BEAN FEIJOADA

The national dish of Brazil, feijoada is a humble dish of black beans cooked with and

accompanied by smoked and cured meats. Because it is so filling and substantial,

feijoada is eaten on Saturday afternoon, when there’s plenty of time afterward for a long

nap. We season the feijoada (which simply means “bean dish”) with Tempero Baiano.

Feijoada originated with African slave cooks who made creative use of collagen-rich pig

ears, snouts, and tails, parts discarded by wealthy plantation owners. Here we serve the

beans with smoked turkey, spiced and smoked pork spareribs, and Portuguese chouriço

sausage. Start 3 or 4 days ahead of time to cure the meat. Garnish the platter with orange

slices, rice, and wilted kale and accompany with molho (Brazilian chile-vinegar hot sauce).

The final touch is a sprinkling of farofa, crunchy toasted meal made from ground, dried

cassava or manioc root, which is native to Brazil.

FOR MEAT

1/2 cup (160 g) molasses (not blackstrap)

1 section (3 inches, or 7.5 cm)

ginger root, peeled and roughly

chopped

1/4 cup (44 g) Tempero Baiano


3 tablespoons (54 g) kosher salt

2 bone-in pork sparerib roasts

(2 to 21/2-pounds, or 908 g to 1 kg, each)

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season bean

soups and

hearty stews.

Add to fish

and seafood

ceviche.

Add to the

batter for

corn bread.

Rub bonein,

skin-on

chicken

thighs with

the mixture

and roast

at a high

temperature

to brown.


FOR BEANS

2 pounds (908 g) smoked turkey wings,

drumsticks, or thighs

6 bay leaves

1 white onion, peeled and quartered

with root end attached

4 sprigs thyme, tied in kitchen string

1 gallon (3.6 L) cold water

2 pounds (908 g) dried black turtle

beans, soaked in cold water to cover

overnight

2 large white onions, diced

6 large cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup (26 g) Tempero Baiano (page 63)


1/2 cup (112 g) bacon fat

1 can (28 ounces, or 784 g) chopped

plum tomatoes

1/2 cup (120 ml) malt vinegar

2 tablespoons (4 g) oregano


2 pounds (908 g) Portuguese chouriço

sausage, cut into 3/4-inch (2 cm)

diagonal slices

1 cup (150 g) farofa (optional),

for garnish

TO MAKE THE MEAT:

1. Combine the molasses, ginger, Tempero Baiano, garlic, and salt in a blender or food

processor and process into a paste. Rub all over the surface of the pork. Cover and

refrigerate for 3 days to cure.

2. Wipe off the excess paste and hot-smoke according to your smoker manufacturer’s

directions for 4 hours, or until tender when pierced with a skewer and well browned. Or

roast at 275°F (140°C, or gas mark 1) for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is tender when

pierced with a skewer. Keep warm or reheat as necessary.

TO MAKE THE BEANS:

1. In a large soup pot, place the smoked turkey, bay leaves, onion quarters, thyme, and

water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 2 hours, or until the broth is well

flavored.

2. Drain and rinse the black beans. Add them to the pot and bring back to the boil. Skim

off and discard the white scum that rises to the top. Simmer the beans until tender but

not mushy, about 11/2 hours. Remove and cool the turkey. Drain the beans, reserving any

excess liquid for soup stock if desired. Pull the turkey meat off the bones, making sure to

remove and discard the hard, bony tendons if using turkey drumsticks. Cut the meat into

bite-size pieces and mix back into the beans.


4. In a large, heavy Dutch oven with a lid, sauté the diced onion, garlic, Tempero Baiano,

and cumin in the bacon fat until softened but not browned. Stir in the tomatoes, vinegar,

oregano, and salt, and bring to a boil. Stir in the cooked beans and reserved turkey meat

and bring back to the boil. Cover and transfer to the oven. Bake for 11/2 hours, or until the

beans are soft and plump and most of the liquid has been absorbed.

5. To serve, cut the meat off the bones of the sparerib roast and slice or pull or dice into

bite-size pieces. Brown the chouriço slices in a large skillet. Arrange the beans in the

center of a large platter and place the chopped spareribs on one side of the beans and the

chouriço on the other. Accompany with any or all of the garnishes listed in the headnote.


64



CARIBBEAN

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub

generously

on chicken,

turkey, or

pork before

roasting

at a high

temperature.

Toss with

roasted

potatoes or

plantains.

Use adobo

to season

guacamole,

tacos, chili

meat, or

beans.

Rub on

roasted or

buttered

steamed

corn on

the cob.

ADOBO SEASONING

A fundamental seasoning in Spanish and Latin American cultures, adobo developed

to preserve meats in the days before refrigeration. It gets its name from the Spanish

word adobar, meaning “to marinate.” Adobo can refer to either a wet paste of spices

mixed with vinegar, bitter orange juice, or lemon or lime juice for acidity and olive or

other oils for moisture, similar to Achiote Paste (page 54), which is a Yucatán adobo,

or to a dry seasoning mixture, as in this recipe. Commercial adobo seasoning is quite

common but is often laden with MSG. In the Philippines, a Spanish colony for close to

four hundred years, the local version of adobo includes Chinese soy. Cuban adobo,

with a strong Spanish influence, usually includes bitter (Seville) orange juice, cumin,

and garlic, while Puerto Rican adobo includes vinegar and oregano.

6 tablespoons (36 g) freshly ground

black pepper (use a spice grinder)


6 tablespoons (42 g) onion powder

1/4 cup (24 g) ground cumin

1/4 cup (12 g) dried oregano

2 pounds (908 g) sweet potatoes,

peeled or not, as desired

1/4 cup (80 g) honey


3 tablespoons (30 g) ground or

crushed chipotle chile or other

hot smoked pepper, such as picante

Spanish pimentón

2 tablespoons (18 g) garlic powder

Combine all the ingredients and transfer to a tightly sealed storage container. Store in

a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.


HONEY ADOBO-ROASTED SWEET POTATO WEDGES

Whether you call them yams, sweet potatoes, or sweetpotatoes (botanists prefer the last),

these sweet, firm tubers take well to roasting, especially dense, nutty Mid-Atlantic U.S.

heirloom white or yellow sweet potato varieties such as Hayman White or Jersey Yellow.

Seasoning them first with mellow spiced adobo and a bit of honey turns a staple into a

memorable side dish. Roast at high heat to caramelize the honey and the natural sugars in

the yams and toast the spices, enhancing their flavor, but keep a careful eye so the yams

don’t burn.

3 tablespoons (15 g) Adobo Seasoning

1 orange, zested


Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5). Cut the sweet potatoes into thick

wedges. Combine the honey, oil, adobo, orange zest, and salt in a small bowl. Rub

generously over the sweet potato wedges. Arrange the sweet potatoes in a single layer in

a baking dish. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the coating is browned and the sweet

potatoes are tender at their thickest point. Serve immediately.


66



CARIBBEAN

POUDRE DE COLOMBO

Poudre de Colombo (“Colombo powder”) originated with Sri Lankans who arrived in

the French Caribbean islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe during the colonial era

as indentured sugar plantation worker after the abolishment of slavery. Also known

as Trinidad curry. Colombo is now a general term in the Caribbean for a curried meat

or seafood stew, often made with goat meat and dense root vegetables like boniato

and hard squash like calabaza. The toasted rice is typical of Colombo powder and

helps bind the spices and lend a nutty, roasted flavor to the mix, which is relatively

mild in flavor because it doesn’t include chiles.

1/4 cup (46 g) long-grain white rice

1/2 cup (80 g) cumin seeds


2 tablespoons (22 g) black

mustard seeds


peppercorns



1/4 cup (40 g) ground turmeric

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

Caribbeanstyle

beef,

lamb, goat,

or chicken

stew.

Use to

season

hard winter

squash such

as butternut,

calabaza, or

pumpkin.

Sprinkle on

buttered

popcorn.

Add to the

filling for

deviled eggs.

1. Toast the rice in a dry, skillet over medium heat, shaking often, until light brown

and fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool to room temperature.

2. In the same skillet, toast the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, black

peppercorns, fenugreek, and cloves, shaking frequently, until lightly toasted and

fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Cool the spices to room temperature and combine with the toasted rice. Grind to a

fine powder and combine well with the turmeric. Transfer to a storage container and

store in a cool, dark place for up to 4 months.


CARROT-GINGER BISQUE WITH POUDRE DE COLOMBO

This cheerful, sunny yellow-orange soup can be made easily with found pantry ingredients

and carrots. Infused with the flavors of poudre de Colombo and enriched with coconut

milk, the soup is also suitable for vegans. A generous quantity of sweet-hot fresh ginger

adds sparkle, while the toasted coconut garnish provides a bit of crunch.


2 ribs celery, diced

1 large onion, diced

3 pounds (1.4 kg) carrots, peeled and

roughly chopped


1 section (3 inches, or 7.5 cm) fresh

gingerroot, peeled, sliced,

and chopped

1/4 cup (46 g) long-grain white rice

11/2 cups (107 g) dried unsweetened

coconut, divided

1/4 cup (38 g) poudre de Colombo

3 quarts (2.7 L) vegetable stock,

homemade or store-bought,

simmering

3 cans (14.5 ounces, or 406 g each)

unsweetened coconut milk


Sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

68


1. Heat the oil with the celery, onion, carrots, garlic, and ginger in a large soup pot and

cook over medium heat until the vegetables are soft but not at all brown. Add the rice and

1/2 cup (22 g) of the coconut and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the Poudre

de Colombo and continue to cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

2. Add the vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook

until the carrots are quite soft, about 30 minutes. Add the coconut milk and honey, bring

back to the boil, and remove from the heat. Season with salt and pepper.


4. Meanwhile, spread the remaining 1 cup (85 g) coconut in a thin layer on a baking pan.

Place in the oven and toast until lightly and evenly browned, about 12 minutes, stirring

once or twice.

5. Working in batches, blend the soup to a smooth purée in a blender or using an

immersion blender. Serve immediately, garnished with the toasted coconut.

6. To store, cool the soup to room temperature, then transfer to a storage container. Store

refrigerated for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 3 months.


JAMAICA

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub on

chicken

wings and

marinate

overnight

before slowgrilling.

Rub on

pork loin or

tenderloin,

marinate

overnight,

and then

slow-grill.

Rub on

pineapple,

papaya,

and/or firm

mango slices

and grill.

JERK SEASONING

This fiery and aromatic spice paste from Jamaica is used to marinate chicken and

pork for Caribbean-style barbecue. It is based on Jamaican allspice berries (known

there as pimento), mellow cinnamon, resinous thyme, and Scotch bonnet peppers,

which we add in fresh form to the marinade for the turkey wings. Similar lanternshaped

habanero chiles also impart the raisin-like fruity-fiery flavor of Caribbean

chiles. Jamaica was settled over 2,500 years ago by Arawak Indians from South

America, where they smoked and dried meat in the sun or over a slow fire, methods

that were common in Peru. Food historians tell us that the word jerk derives from

the Peruvian word charqui, for the strips of smoke-dried meat that became known as

jerky in America.

6 tablespoons (48 g) whole allspice

10 bay leaves, crumbled

2 large quills soft-stick cinnamon

(canela)


peppercorns

1/4 cup (60 g) packed dark brown sugar


thyme leaves or 2 teaspoons (2 g)

dried

Kosher salt

Heat the allspice, bay leaves, cinnamon, and peppercorns in a small, dry skillet over

medium heat, shaking the pan for several minutes, or until the fragrance is released.

Cool to room temperature and then grind in a spice grinder or crush using a mortar

and pestle. Combine with the brown sugar, thyme, and salt and reserve. Transfer to a

tightly sealed storage container. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.


JERK-SPICED TURKEY WINGS

Allspice is native to Jamaica, and all parts of the plant are used for seasoning. The berries

are crushed and used to season meats; the fresh leaves (also known as West Indian bay

leaf) are used to wrap meat before cooking. Jamaica dram is a liqueur made by steeping

allspice berries. The tree wood is used to make the fire when cooking jerk meats. While

Mexico and several countries in Central America now raise allspice, the best-quality

berries still come from Jamaica.

5 pounds (2,270 g) turkey wings,

defrosted if frozen

6 tablespoons (30 g) Jerk Seasoning

11/2 cups (355 ml) malt or cider vinegar


2 Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles,

seeded and minced (wear gloves and

take care as these chiles are fiery)

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced


1. Cut the wings into individual joints and use only the larger second and third joints.

Reserve the wing tips for stock if desired.

2. In a large, nonreactive bowl, combine the Jerk Seasoning, vinegar, water, chiles,

scallions, and turkey wings. Cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours (longer is better here),

turning once or twice so the wings marinate evenly.

3. When ready to cook, allow the wings to come to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Preheat a charcoal grill with a cover until no flames remain, just white coals. Drain the

wings and rub or brush with the oil. Grill indirectly in a covered grill until browned to a

reddish mahogany color on all sides and cooked through but still juicy, about 1 hour,

70


15 minutes. If desired, toss a small handful of whole allspice berries and/or cinnamon

sticks into the fire halfway through the cooking time for an extra burst of flavor.

Alternatively, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4) and roast the wings until

thoroughly cooked, about 1 hour.

YIELD: 6 servings


5

EUROPEAN

BLENDS

The best known of the short list of native European spices

are pungent caraway, celery, chives, horseradish, and juniper.

Though rare and costly, tropical spices such as black pepper,

cinnamon, and ginger have been imported to the region since

ancient Roman times. Europe’s cuisines rely on Mediterranean

herbs, including bay leaf, marjoram, chervil, parsley, oregano,

rosemary, savory, sorrel, and thyme. In their fresh form, they

show up in French Fines Herbes and Bouquet Garni. In their

dried form, they are blended into Herbes de Provence.

Georgia, at the crossroads of western Asia and Eastern Europe,

combines many herbs in its Khmeli-Suneli blend. Onion and

garlic are important, especially in France and Italy, though garlic

is less appreciated in Northern Europe. Hungary is renowned for

its sweet and hot paprika, which developed from imported New

World chiles. Black pepper seasons almost every savory dish,

while white pepper is preferred for French white sauces. Ginger,

nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and cloves are commonly found in

blends such as Dutch Speculaas Spice, Northern European

Gingerbread Spice, Pickling Spice, and French Quatre Épices.

73

FRANCE

BOUQUET GARNI

This French term refers to a small bundle of fragrant herbs to be simmered with

various dishes, infusing mild, aromatic flavor into the food. It nearly always contains

parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, but delicate, slightly licorice-like chervil is a wonderful

addition, especially when cooking chicken, veal, or fish. In Germany and Italy, other

variations are used and might include basil, salad burnet, rosemary, savory, and

tarragon. The orange peel used here is a Provençal French addition.

6 large sprigs thyme, preferably

French small-leafed thyme

4 sprigs Italian or curly parsley

6 sprigs chervil (if available)

1 strip orange peel

2 bay leaves

Using kitchen string, tie together the herbs, placing the bay leaves in the center of the

bundle and wrapping the string tightly around and around so the bouquet doesn’t

unravel. Leave a long string tail that you can fish the bouquet out of the pot before

serving.

YIELD: 1 bouquet

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

stocks,

sauces, soup,

ragouts,

and braised

meats from

the French

and Italian

traditions.

Add to

boiling water

and simmer

for 15 to

20 minutes

before

cooking

vegetables.

74


ROOT VEGETABLE POTAGE

A potage is a simple, country-style French soup that might be served in a farmhouse. Here

we combine buttery-tasting gold potatoes with root vegetables simmered in chicken stock

and enriched with cream just before serving. Feel free to substitute other root vegetables

such as salsify (delicious but hard to find), gold beets, or parsley root. The soup freezes

perfectly without the cream.

3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter

1 large onion, roughly chopped

1 large celery root, pared and cut into

rough chunks

2 large parsnips, pared and cut into

rough chunks

3 large carrots, peeled and cut into

rough chunks

3 large gold potatoes, peeled and cut

into rough chunks

1 Bouquet Garni (page 74)

1. In a large soup pot, melt the butter and cook the onion, celery root, parsnips, and

carrots until softened but not browned. Add the potatoes and bouquet garni and cook

until soft, about 15 minutes. Add the chicken stock and continue cooking for another

10 minutes, or until the flavors come together.

2. Fish out and discard the Bouquet Garni. Working in batches and taking care because

the soup is hot, blend the soup to a smooth purée. Stir in the leeks, transfer back to the

pot, and cook for 5 minutes, or until the leeks are brightly colored and crisp-tender. Pour

in the heavy cream, stir to combine, and bring back to the boil. Season to taste with salt,

pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg. Serve the soup immediately topped with the chives.


3 quarts (2.7 L) chicken stock,

simmering (substitute vegetable

stock for a vegetarian soup)

2 leeks, white and light green portions

only, diced and washed

1 cup (235 ml) heavy cream

Kosher salt, ground white pepper,

a pinch of cayenne, and freshly grated

nutmeg to taste

Thinly sliced chives, for garnish

(optional but lovely)

EUROPEAN BLENDS 75

FRANCE

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

omelets and

scrambled

eggs.

Sprinkle

on cooked

vegetables

such as

green beans,

carrots,

cauliflower,

and zucchini.

Use to

season fish

fillets with a

little lemon

and butter or

olive oil.

Combine

with softened

butter and

spoon onto

beef, lamb,

or veal

steaks.

Add to

cream soups

such as leek

and potato.

FINES HERBES

This classic blend is a delicately balanced bouquet of the fresh tender herbs popular

in French cuisine. Use Fines Herbes to season mildly flavored dishes such as omelets,

fish, veal dishes, mashed potatoes, and steamed or sautéed vegetables. Here we use

fresh herbs, for a mixture to be used immediately. For a longer-lasting mix, substitute

dried herbs, preferably those you have dried yourself on the branch (see page 18),

in the same proportions. While it’s not easy to find, feathery chervil is essential to its

flavor. French tarragon, rather than the more common Russian tarragon, has finer

leaves and a more pungent, licorice-like flavor.

2 tablespoons (8 g) finely chopped

Italian parsley

2 tablespoons (6 g) thinly sliced

chives

2 tablespoons (5 g) finely

chopped chervil

11/4 pounds (about 5 cups, or 568 g)

pastry flour

2 tablespoons (28 g) baking powder

2 teaspoons (12 g) sea salt

6 tablespoons (30 g) fresh Fines Herbes

or 2 tablespoons (30 g) dried

1 pinch of cayenne


2 tablespoons (8 g)

finely chopped tarragon

1 tablespoon (2.5 g) finely

chopped thyme

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and use the same day. Or, use dried herbs

in the same proportion and combine well.


SMOKED SALMON SCONES WITH FRENCH FINES HERBES

Scones are simply biscuits shortened with plenty of butter and raised with baking

powder—somewhere between a pastry and a cake. Here we make savory scones speckled

with bits of fresh green herbs and strips of savory smoked salmon. The dough freezes

quite well. Either freeze the extra dough in a tightly closed resealable plastic bag, or roll

out and cut the scones, place on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet, freeze until firm,

then transfer to a resealable plastic bag, squeeze out the excess air, and freeze. Bake

scones directly from frozen, allowing about 10 minutes extra baking time. Low-protein

pastry flour, made from soft wheat and available from specialty bakery suppliers, makes

for the most tender and moist scones.

14 ounces (392 g) unsalted butter,

diced and chilled

6 tablespoons (90 ml) buttermilk

4 ounces (112 g) smoked salmon,

trimmed and cut into thin strips

2 ounces (1/4 cup, or 56 g) unsalted

butter, melted and cooled

Crème fraîche, chives, and salmon or

tobiko caviar, for garnish

76


1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, fines herbes (dry or

fresh), cayenne, and black pepper. In hot weather, chill in the freezer for 30 minutes. Using

the flat beater from an electric mixer, or by hand, cut the butter into the flour mixture until

the butter pieces are the size of peas.

2. Pour the buttermilk over the flour mixture while tossing with your hands to distribute

the liquid evenly. Add the smoked salmon and toss to combine well. Mix just long enough

for the mixture to form a rough ball (overbeating will yield tough scones).

3. Form the dough into a flattened rectangular block and store in resealable plastic bag.

Chill for at least 1 hour, or until firm.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Line baking sheets with parchment

paper.

5. Roll out the dough on a floured surface (or between two sheets of wax paper that have

been dusted with flour) to a thickness of about 3/8 inch (1 cm). Cut into 2-inch (5 cm) circles

and brush with the melted butter. Arrange the scones equidistant on the prepared baking

sheets. If desired, gather dough scraps together, flatten, and roll out again.

6. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the scones are fully cooked on the inside and lightly

colored on the outside. Serve immediately topped with a dab of crème fraîche and a

sprinkle of chives and caviar.

YIELD: 48 scones, 31/4 pounds (1.5 kg) dough

EUROPEAN BLENDS 77

FRANCE

HERBES DE PROVENCE

This blend of herbs is essential to Provençal French cuisine, although it wasn’t until

the 1970s that commercial versions came on the market. Up until then, locals made

their own blends of the herbs that they gathered or grew and dried. It is based on the

resinous herbs laden with essential oils that thrive on hillsides throughout Provence

and is almost always made with herbs that are sun-dried each season on the branch.

1 orange, zested, or 2 teaspoons (4 g)

dried orange zest

1/4 cup (4 g) dried tarragon

1/4 cup (24 g) dried thyme

2 tablespoons (15 g) dried summer

savory


fennel seed

2 teaspoons (4 g) celery seed

4 bay leaves, finely crumbled

2 teaspoons (2 g) lavender buds

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Store in a tightly sealed container in a

dark place for up to 3 months.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub on

shoulder of

lamb and

slow-roast.

Add to

vegetable

stews like

ratatouille

and bakedstuffed

vegetables

such as

tomatoes,

peppers, and

zucchini.

Use to

season

fennel,

eggplant,

and

artichoke

dishes.

PROVENÇAL SUMMER VEGETABLE TIAN

A favorite in summertime, the classic Provençal tian is named after the shallow, oval

earthenware baking dish used to bake it. It is equally delicious served hot or at room

temperature. If the yellow squash are large, you may wish to cut away the outside from

the lower, fatter portion, discarding the seedy center portion, which may be woody. Cut

the top, portion into rounds; cut the outer portion of the bottom into half-moons.

2 large red peppers

1 pound (454 g) eggplant, preferably

slender Chinese or Japanese eggplant

2 pounds (908 g) ripe beefsteak

tomatoes

1 pound (454 g) zucchini

1 fennel bulb, tough outer

leaves discarded

1 lemon, juiced


divided

Sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

1 red onion, diced


garlic, divided

2 cups (100 g) fresh breadcrumbs

(made from the insides of French

baguette or Italian country bread and

processed)

2 tablespoons (8 g) Herbes de Provence


2. Trim the red pepper, eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, and fennel into rounds of equal

thickness, about 1/4 inch (6 mm). Toss the fennel with the lemon juice to prevent browning.

Toss the vegetables with ¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

3. Combine 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the olive oil, the onion, and 1 tablespoon (10 g) of the garlic

in a skillet. Cook slowly until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Spread half the

onion mixture on the bottom of a large, shallow ceramic baking dish, and season with salt

and pepper.

78


4. In a small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs, remaining 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil, Herbes de

Provence, remaining 1 tablespoon (10 g) garlic, and more salt and pepper. Spread half the

sliced vegetables on top. Pat half the breadcrumb mixture over the vegetables. Spread the

remaining onion mixture on top of the onion mixture. Make a second layer of the sliced

vegetables and top with the remaining crumb mixture.

5. Place the tian on a baking pan to catch any drips and place on the bottom shelf of the

oven, cover with foil, and bake for 11/2 hours or until the vegetables are bubbling. Uncover

and continue baking 30 minutes or until the crumbs are golden brown and the vegetables

are soft. Serve immediately or at room temperature.


EUROPEAN BLENDS 79

FRANCE

QUATRE ÉPICES

The French four-spice mixture is a simple combination of white pepper and sweet

aromatic spices that dates back to prerevolutionary France. Sometimes cloves are

substituted for the allspice. If doing so, use 2 teaspoons (6 g) ground cloves, as they

are quite potent. Cinnamon may be substituted for all or part of the ginger if desired.

Though white pepper is traditional, black pepper may be substituted for all or half

of the white pepper, which is more potent and earthier than the more aromatic and

fruitier black pepper. It is the classic seasoning for charcuterie such as pâté, sausage,

and terrines.

1/2 cup (48 g) freshly ground

white pepper

1/4 cup (32 g) freshly ground nutmeg


2 tablespoons (12 g) ground allspice

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Store in a tightly sealed container away

from the light for up to 3 months.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season

French

country

pâtés and

terrines.

Add to

braised beef

in red wine

sauce with

marrow.

Add to veal

stew and

braised

chicken

dishes.

WINTER BOSC PEAR AND ROQUEFORT SALAD

WITH SPICED RED WINE FIGS

This elegant cold-weather salad is made with Bosc pears, which have a spicy quality of

their own, tossed with refreshingly bitter Belgian endive and radicchio—botanical cousins.

Choose either the high-ground-grown, long, smooth, pointy spears of radicchio di Treviso

or the more common low-ground-grown rounded curly heads of radicchio di Chioggia.

The salad is garnished with dried figs simmered in red wine and honey with French Quatre

Épices to add depth and a sweet-spicy fragrance. The sharp, biting flavor and richly

buttery texture of Roquefort cheese brings all the flavors and textures together.

12 dried figs, preferably plump, lightcolored

Calimyrna

1 cup (235 ml) dry red wine


3 teaspoons (6 g) Quatre Épices,

divided

6 tablespoons (90 ml) grapeseed oil or

other neutral salad oil such as canola

3 tablespoons (45 ml) cider vinegar


shallot

Kosher salt and freshly ground black

pepper

3 heads Belgian endive

1 head radicchio

3 Bosc pears

1/2 lemon, juiced

6 ounces (168 g) Roquefort cheese,

cut into 6 slices

1. Trim off and discard the stems from the figs. In a pan, heat the red wine, honey, and

2 teaspoons (4 g) of the Quatre Épices until hot to the touch, turn off the heat, and then

add the figs. Allow the figs to soak in the wine syrup for 2 hours, or until softened. Transfer

to a medium pot and heat the mixture until boiling. Reduce the heat to low and simmer

for 15 minutes, or until soft but still whole. Cool completely, then cut each fig in half.

2. Whisk together the oil, vinegar, shallot, and remaining 1 teaspoon (2 g) Quatre Épices

and season with salt and pepper; reserve.

80


3. Cut the endive and radicchio into 1-inch (2.5 cm)-wide strips, discarding the hard cores.

Halve the pears, remove the core, preferably using a Parisienne scoop (small round ball

cutter), cut into thin wedges, and toss with the lemon juice.

4. Place the endive and radicchio in a bowl and toss with enough vinaigrette to coat

lightly. Divide among six salad plates. Form the pear slices into six fans and place on one

side of the salad, drizzling with more vinaigrette. Place a slice of Roquefort along the front

edge of each pear fan. Arrange the figs on top of each salad and serve immediately.

YIELD: 6 servings

EUROPEAN BLENDS 81

GEORGIA

KHMELI-SUNELI

Georgia is well known for the subtle blends of herbs in its khmeli-suneli, which is used

liberally to flavor kharcho, a thick stew-like soup made from beef, lamb, or chicken.

In Georgia and in Russian markets, the pale gold to light brown mix can be purchased

ready-made. This savory mixture of dried herbs (marjoram, basil, savory, dill, and

others) includes black pepper, coriander seeds, and Georgian or Imeretian saffron

(marigold or safflower petals) for their gold color. Marigolds are used in chicken feed

to give their eggs a golden color.

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Dry your own

marigold

by tying the

bunch and

hanging upside

down until the

blossoms are

fully dried.

Crumble the

golden petals

only, not the

calyxes or

other parts.

Or purchase

marigold

(Calendula

officinalis) tea

bags, which are

often available

in Chinese

markets and

online shopping

sites, and add

the golden

petals (not the

green calyxes or

other parts) to

the mixture.

2 tablespoons (6 g) dried dill weed

2 tablespoons (15 g) dried summer

savory

2 tablespoons (3.5 g) dried

marjoram

2 tablespoons (3 g) dried spearmint

1/4 cup (5 g) dried parsley


coriander

2 tablespoons (5 g) dried fenugreek

(methi) leaves

2 teaspoons (15 g) ground

fenugreek


pepper

1 teaspoon celery seed

4 finely crushed bay leaves

2 tablespoons (2 g) dried crumbled

marigold petals

Combine everything but the marigold petals in a bowl. Grind the mixture to a slightly

chunky consistency. Add the marigold and mix to combine well. Transfer the mixture

to a tightly sealed storage container. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.


did you know?

Twelve to 20 grams of saffron can cause death by poisoning, but don’t worry;

an average serving is a pinch, weighing far less than 1 gram.

82


LOBIO (GEORGIAN RED KIDNEY BEAN STEW)

Food is an integral part of Georgia’s legendary hospitality, demonstrated in feasts called

supra, where a huge assortment of dishes is served accompanied by copious amounts

of wine. This juicy red bean stew flavored with sweet-tart prunes, tangy tamarind, and

Khmeli-Suneli is perfect for vegetarians and will also appeal to meat eaters. Look for dark

red kidney beans (called badi rajma in Indian groceries).

1 pound (2 cups, or 454 g) dried dark

red kidney beans

Sea salt

6 tablespoons (90 ml)

extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, finely diced

2 carrots, finely diced

2 ribs celery, finely diced


1. Soak the beans overnight in cold water to cover. Drain the beans and rinse well.

2. Place the beans in a large Dutch oven with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil,

skimming off white foam impurities as they form. Cover and simmer for about 1 hour, or

until the beans are half cooked. Season with salt and continue cooking 1 hour longer, or

until the beans are tender but not mushy. Drain and set aside.

3. In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and

garlic; sauté until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and reserve.

4. Combine the prunes, vinegar, tamarind purée, and hot pepper flakes in a small pot.

Simmer until the prunes are soft, about 15 minutes. Cool and then purée the mixture in a

food processor or blender.

5. Add the sautéed vegetables, prune mixture, Khmeli-Suneli, and cilantro to the beans

heating until bubbling hot. Season with more salt and freshly ground pepper and serve.

YIELD: 8 servings

8 plump pitted prunes

1/4 cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar

1/4 cup (75 g) tamarind purée

(see Note)

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper flakes

1/4 cup (20 g) khmeli-suneli (page XX)

1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

Tamarind Purée

Tamarind is a pod that grows on a tree native to tropical Africa but was introduced to

India so long ago that it is often thought to be indigenous there as well. It is cultivated

extensively throughout the tropical regions, especially Mexico, Asian tamarinds have

longer pods with six to twelve seeds; African and Latin American tamarinds have

shorter pods containing one to six seeds. The seeds are flattened and glossy brown,

and their flavor is like a lemony prune. Tamarind paste in a jar is available but is quite

salty, so reduce or eliminate the salt in the recipe. Fresh tamarind may be found in

Asian and Latino groceries in season—sporadically from early spring to late fall. To use

fresh tamarind, remove the brown seedy meat from inside the hard, lumpy pod or use

a 12-ounce (336 g) block of dried tamarind, preferably without seeds.

Place the block of tamarind in a bowl and cover with hot water. Soak until softened,

about 30 minutes, breaking up the pulp with your hands to speed the process. When

the tamarind is soft, strain the mixture through a sieve or food mill, discarding the

fibers and seeds. The strained tamarind liquid is ready to use. Store refrigerated for up

to 1 month or freeze for up to 6 months. Makes about 3 cups (900 g).

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

flavors

Georgian

braised

mutton.

Add to

givetch

(slow-cooked

vegetable

stew).

Add to

marinades

for meat and

poultry.

Sprinkle on

white cheese

such as

feta, labne,

or farmer

cheese as

a spread

for bread

or a dip for

vegetables.

EUROPEAN BLENDS 83

HOLLAND

SPECULAAS SPICE

Known as speculaaskruiden in Dutch, this mixture of aromatic sweet spices is used

to make decorative speculaas cookies formed in carved wooden molds and gevulde

speculaas, an almond paste–stuffed pastry similar to French pithiviers tart. The mix

is a legacy of Holland’s long history of colonization in Indonesia, home to cassia

cinnamon. It also includes nutmeg, mace, and cloves, other spices grown in the

Moluccas, the island archipelago in Indonesia long known as the Spice Islands.


Indonesian (cassia) cinnamon


2 tablespoons (12 g) ground aniseed

4 teaspoons (8 g) ground coriander

1 tablespoon (6 g) ground

cardamom

2 teaspoons (6 g) freshly grated

nutmeg

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground allspice

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground mace


Combine all the spices in a small bowl. Store in a spice tin or glass jar in a cool, dark

place for up to 4 months.


did you know?

The tiny island of Grenada in the Caribbean supplies nearly 40 percent of the world’s

nutmeg, which was introduced there in 1843 when a merchant ship called in on its way

to England from the East Indies and left a few nutmeg trees behind.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to sugar

cookie

dough.

Add to

pancake

batter.

Add to baked

apples,

pears, or

apricots.

DUTCH APPLE CAKE WITH CURRANTS

AND SPECULAAS SPICE

Made with a mixture of tart, sweet, soft, and firm apples and tiny zante currant grapes,

enclosed in buttery-rich cookie-like pastry, this deep-dish tart gets its flavor from lemon

zest and Speculaas Spice. Serve warm with hot tea or coffee on a cold winter’s day,

preferably while sitting in front of the fire.

FOR FILLING

5 pounds (2.3 kg) mixed tart and

sweet apples

1 cup (235 ml) water

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

1 lemon, zested

2 teaspoons (4 g) Speculaas Spice

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 cup (36 g) Zante currants

FOR DOUGH

12 ounces (336 g) unbleached

all-purpose flour

8 ounces (227 g) unsalted butter, cut

into small bits

1/2 cup (100 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (4 g) Speculaas Spice

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 large eggs, lightly beaten with

2 tablespoons (30 ml) ice water

1 large egg, lightly beaten with

1 tablespoon (15 ml) milk or cream

(for egg wash)

84


EUROPEAN BLENDS 85


1. Peel and slice the apples. Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a medium pot over

medium-high heat. Stir in the lemon zest, speculaas spice, and salt. Add the apples

and simmer until transparent, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the

currants.

2. Drain, reserving the fruit and liquid separately. Spread the fruit out on a parchment

paper–lined metal pan so it will cool more quickly.

TO MAKE THE DOUGH:

1. Combine the flour, butter, sugar, Speculaas Spice, and salt in a mixing bowl and

refrigerate, about 20 minutes. Using the flat paddle of a mixer, or by hand, cut the butter

into the flour, mixing until the bits resemble oatmeal. Add the egg-water mixture and beat

until the dough comes together in a rough ball. Add more ice water by the teaspoon as

needed but avoid adding excess water because this will yield a tougher dough.

2. Pat the dough into a flattened rectangle, place in a plastic bag, and chill for at least

1 hour or up to 2 days, until firm. Divide the dough into two sections of one-third and twothirds.

Roll out the larger portion of dough on a generously floured surface into a round a

bit more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick, and chill. Roll the remaining smaller portion of dough

into a roughly rectangular shape and chill. Alternatively, or on a hot day, dust a sheet of

wax or parchment paper generously with flour. Top with the flattened dough, dust with

flour, and top with another sheet of paper. Roll the dough between the sheets, removing

from the paper and dusting with more flour to keep this sticky dough rolling freely. If the

dough gets too soft, place back in the refrigerator to firm up before proceeding.

3. From the larger round of chilled dough, cut out a round about 12 inches (30.5 cm) in

diameter. Press the round of dough into the bottom and about 11/2 inches (3.8 cm) up the

sides of a 9 x 2-inch (23 x 5 cm) springform pan or a similarly sized deep French quiche pan

with a removable bottom.

4. Cut the remaining rectangular sheet of dough into strips about 1/3 inch (8 mm) wide

for the lattice top, using a pinked cutter if possible. Arrange the strips on a sheet of

parchment or waxed paper. Chill the strips while assembling the cake.

5. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Fill the pastry-lined pan with the

cooled apple/currant mixture.

6. Make a woven lattice top to cover the top as follows: Place the dough strips in parallel

rows across the top of the cake about 3/4 inch (2 cm) apart. Fold back every other strip

halfway. Place a dough strip crosswise over the strips. Unfold the folded strips to cover the

crosswise strip.

7. Next, take the parallel strips that are running underneath the crosswise strip and fold

them back halfway. Lay down a second crosswise strip of dough above the first strip,

leaving 3/4 inch (2 cm) in between the strips. Continue until the lattice top is complete.

Trim any overhanging edges flush with the edge of the pan and press the edges together

to seal.

8. Using the remaining dough strips, form a continuous border about 1/3-inch (8 mm) wide

around the rim of the cake, covering the edges of the lattice. Press down evenly and lightly

so the strips adhere to the rim. Brush the lattice and the rim with the egg-milk wash.

9. Place the cake on a baking sheet to catch any drips and bake on the bottom shelf of

the oven until the dough is lightly browned and the filling is bubbling, about 1 hour and

15 minutes. Remove the cake from the oven and cool for about 30 minutes, or until warm

but not hot.

86


10. Meanwhile, boil the reserved apple syrup until thick and syrupy and just beginning

to darken and then pour over the warm cake into the openings between the pastry strips.

(Don’t worry if some spills onto the pastry—this is expected.)

11. Cool the cake to room temperature before cutting into 12 to 16 wedges. Cover and

store at room temperature for up to 1 day or refrigerate for up to 4 days.

YIELD: One 9-inch (23 cm) cake, 12 to 16 servings

EUROPEAN BLENDS 87

NORDIC AND LOW COUNTRIES

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season

gingerbread

cookies and

gingerbread

cake.

Sprinkle

on baked

apples or

pears.

GINGERBREAD SPICE MIX

Ginger is the dominant flavor in this sweet-hot aromatic spice mix and acts as a

preservative to all manner of spiced gingerbreads. Whether soft and chewy, crisp

and flat, or thick and breadlike, gingerbread has been baked in Europe, especially

Germany, since the eleventh century. It was usually cut into shapes like men, women,

children, animals, or stars or pressed into decorative molds before baking. The dough

might be formed into the shape of a loved one, a heart shape decorated with white

icing and colored ribbons, or used to construct elaborate iced and candy-laden

gingerbread houses. Because of the costliness of the spices that arrived from far-off

lands, gingerbread was reserved for Christmas and festivals. In England, gingerbread

was a fairground treat with button and flower shapes found at Easter and animals

and birds in autumn. Gingerbread was made with treacle syrup in England, while

maple syrup was substituted in New England, and sorghum molasses provided the

sweetening in the American South.


1/4 cup (24 g) ground cassia

cinnamon

2 tablespoons (12 g) freshly

ground black pepper


cardamom

1 tablespoon (6 g) ground allspice


Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and store in a tightly sealed container in a

dark place for up to 3 months.


did you know?

In 1914, a German planter, Oscar Majus, brought cardamom plants to Guatemala when

he realized that its climate and altitude were similar to the cardamom-growing Indian

regions of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Today, Guatemala is the world’s biggest producer of

cardamom. Until recently, the entire Guatemalan crop was exported to the Middle East,

mostly to flavor coffee. Today, smugglers are bringing cardamom into Northern India

through Pakistan, thereby creating an ongoing and heated spice war with Indian growers.

Add a pinch

to eggnog

and crème

brûlée batter.

Add to

pancake batter

with golden

raisins.

88


SWEDISH GINGERBREAD SPICE COOKIES

Making these cookies is a holiday tradition in Sweden. They belong to the large family

of Northern European ginger and spice breads that date back to medieval times, when

spices were so rare and expensive that they could only be used for the most important

celebrations. Crushed-up cookies make a wonderful crumb crust for cheesecake or pumpkin

or sweet potato pie. Use the crumbs to thicken the gravy for Beef Sauerbraten (page 91).

11/4 pounds (about 5 cups, or 568 g)

unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon (14 g) baking soda

3 tablespoons (18 g) Gingerbread

Spice Mix (page 88)

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 pound (2 sticks, or 227 g)

unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar

3/4 cup (170 g) packed dark

brown sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Line two 18 x 13-inch (45.7 x 33 cm)

half sheet pans (or other large baking pans) with parchment paper or silicone baking

mats.

2. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, Gingerbread Spice Mix, and salt.

3. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter,

granulated sugar, and brown sugar until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Beat in the eggs,

yolk, honey, cream, and lemon zest.

4. Add the dry ingredients and candied ginger, beating only long enough for the dough to

form a rough ball.

5. Scoop the dough into 48 balls about the size of a walnut. Arrange the dough balls in

rows of three and two on the baking pans. Brush the c ookies with the egg wash, then

sprinkle with the raw sugar.

6. Bake the cookies for 7 to 8 minutes, or until lightly browned on the outside but still soft

inside. Remove from the oven and, using the flat bottom of a cup or jar dipped in flour,

flatten the cookies to about 1/8-inch (3 mm) thick. Place back in the oven and bake for 5 to

6 minutes longer, or until the cookies are crisp at the edges. (If baking two sheets at once,

rotate the pans halfway through baking and bake a few minutes longer.) Cool the cookies

to room temperature on a wire rack before serving.

YIELD: About 4 dozen 2-inch (5 cm) cookies

2 large eggs

1 egg yolk


1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream

1 lemon, zested

4 ounces (112 g) candied ginger,

finely diced

1 egg white, lightly beaten with

1 tablespoon (15 ml) water,

for egg wash

1/2 cup (100 g) raw or crystallized sugar,

for sprinkling

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

The scooped

cookie dough

balls will freeze

perfectly.

Arrange them

on a baking

pan lined with

parchment

paper, wax

paper, or a

silicone mat and

freeze. Once

the cookies

are completely

frozen, transfer

them to a

resealable

plastic freezer

bag, squeeze

out the excess

air, and freeze.

EUROPEAN BLENDS 89

NORTHERN EUROPE

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

pickle meats

such as

corned beef.

Use to pickle

vegetables

such as

cabbage,

okra,

onions, and

mushrooms.

Use to pickle

oily fish such

as salmon

and herring.

Use to

season the

liquid for

poaching

shrimp,

crabs, and

crayfish.

PICKLING SPICE

This spice mix is used to make a pickling syrup for pickled prune plums and as a

marinade for sauerbraten. (see page 20 for step-by-step photos); it may also be

used to pickle firm peaches, sour cherries, and pears served as a relish for roasted

or smoked poultry. Substitute all yellow mustard seeds if black (or brown) mustard

seeds are not available.

4 cassia cinnamon sticks (3 inches,

or 7.5 cm)

6 pieces whole dried gingerroot

1/4 cup (45 g) black mustard seeds

1/4 cup (45 g) yellow mustard seeds


1/4 cup (24 g) whole allspice berries

1/4 cup (32 g) black peppercorns

PICKLED SPICED PLUMS

1. Bring the water, both sugars, cider vinegar, and pickling spice to a boil in a nonreactive

(not aluminum) pot.

2. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes to infuse the flavors.

3. Meanwhile, prick each plum in 2 or 3 places to keep them from bursting, then add

to the liquid. Cook for 3 minutes or until the plums have softened. Remove from heat

and cool to room temperature in the poaching liquid. Transfer to storage containers,

preferably glass, ceramic, or stainless steel, and refrigerate for 1 week to cure before

serving. The plums will keep for about 2 months refrigerated. If desired, transfer to

sterilized canning jars and process according to the manufacturer’s directions for

longer storage.

YIELD: 3 cups (1.4 kg)

1/4 cup (40 g) dill seeds


2 tablespoons (12 g) whole cloves

2 tablespoons (8 g) crushed mace

blades

1/4 cup (10 g) crumbled bay leaves

4 small whole dried chile peppers,

such as chile arbol, crumbled

Place the cinnamon sticks in a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag or wrap in a clean

towel. Using a hammer or mallet, break up the cinnamon sticks into small shards. Do

the same for the dried gingerroot. Combine with the remaining ingredients. Store the

Pickling Spice in a tightly sealed container away from the light for up to 8 months.

When ready to use, for easy removal make a sachet by placing the pickling spices in

cheesecloth and tying tightly with kitchen string with a long “tail” if desired.


3 cups (705 ml) cold water

2 cups (400 g) granulated sugar

4 cups (450 g) light brown sugar

4 cups (940 ml) apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup (20 g) Pickling Spice

3 pounds (1.4 kg) prune plums,

crabapples, or small, hard pears

90


BEEF SAUERBRATEN WITH GINGERSNAPS

Sauerbraten gets its name from the German sauer, or sour, and braten, for roast meat. It

is a German pot roast that can be prepared with a variety of meats—usually beef, but also

game meats, mutton, pork, and traditionally, horsemeat. A large tougher cut of meat is

marinated anywhere from three to as much as ten days in a mixture of an acid such as

vinegar or wine, Pickling Spice, and other seasonings. Sauerbraten is one of Germany’s

national dishes and is often accompanied by braised red cabbage and potato dumplings

or spaetzle noodles to soak up the savory juices. The crumbled gingersnaps (see page 89)

used to soak up the juices are one traditional variation.

1 cup (235 ml) cider vinegar

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1/4 cup (28 g) Pickling Spice (page 90)


1 quart (940 ml) cold water

1 beef bottom round roast, trimmed

and tied (4 to 5 pounds or 1.8 to 2.3 kg)

2 cups (470 ml) beef, chicken, or

vegetable stock, homemade or

store-bought


1/4 cup (30 g) all-purpose flour

2 ounces (1/2 cup, or 56 g) crushed

Swedish Gingerbread Spice Cookies

(page 89) or store-bought gingersnaps


1. Starting 3 days ahead of time, combine the vinegar, onion, lemon wedges, Pickling

Spice, salt, and cold water in a medium pot. Bring to a boil, then cool to room

temperature.

2. Place the beef in a large bowl and add the cooled marinade, which should just cover

the meat. Top the meat with a plate to keep it submerged in the marinade. Cover and

marinate, refrigerated, for 3 days, turning the beef once a day.

3. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4).

4. Remove the beef from the marinade, reserving the marinade (not strained) in the

refrigerator. Pat the beef dry and place in a roasting pan just large enough to hold the

meat, fat-side (the outer side) up. Roast for 1 hour and then reduce the oven temperature

to 275°F (140°C, or gas mark 1). Continue roasting until tender to the center when pierced,

about 5 hours. Remove the beef from the oven and transfer to a cutting board.

5. Deglaze the browned bits from the roasting pan by pouring in the beef stock and place

back in the oven for about 15 minutes. Scrape the softened browned bits from the pan

using a wooden spoon, pour into a bowl or large measuring cup, and reserve.

6. In a large heavy skillet, combine the oil and flour. Cook over medium heat, stirring

constantly, until deep brown, about 10 minutes. Gradually whisk in the reserved marinade

and pan juices. Bring to a boil and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the sauce

has thickened, about 10 minutes, skimming off foam as necessary. Add the cookie crumbs

and brown sugar and stir well to combine. Strain the sauce through a wire sieve or a French

wire chinois, pressing firmly on the solids to extract all the juices. Discard the solids.

7. Ladle about 2 cups (470 ml) of the strained sauce into a large baking dish. Slice the

beef thinly against the grain and arrange in layers in the baking dish, spooning sauce in

between each layer. Pour the remaining sauce over the top.

8. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Cover and bake

until the beef is heated through, about 30 minutes.


EUROPEAN BLENDS 91

PORTUGAL

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub chicken,

beef skirt

steak or

hanger

steak,

shrimp,

or whole

fish with

this spicy

seasoning

mix before

grilling or

roasting.

Add to

cooked

lentils,

chickpeas, or

beans.

Toss with

buttered

or oliveoiled

fresh

popcorn.

TEMPERO DA ESSÊNCIA

This is a traditional Portuguese recipe for an herb and spice blend hot with African

piri piri chiles that is typically used for seasoning meats. Piri piri chiles, also known

as African bird’s eye pepper or malagueta pepper, is a small cultivar of Capsicum

frutescens and grows both wild and domesticated. It was carried across the Atlantic

by the Portuguese, who also brought it to Angola in Africa and to Goa in India when

both were Portuguese colonies. Piri piri means “pepper pepper” in Swahili.

2 tablespoons (16 g) ground piri piri

chiles (substitute ground, dried red

chiles such as cayenne, chile ancho

powder, or hot paprika)

2 tablespoons (36 g) sea salt

1/4 cup (36 g) garlic powder

1/4 cup (56 g) unsalted butter

1 small onion, finely diced


1 cup (235 ml) dry white wine

1 lemon, juiced

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 tablespoons (22 g) Tempero da

Essência


black pepper


2 tablespoons (14 g) onion powder

2 tablespoons (4 g) dried oregano

2 tablespoons (12 g) dried thyme

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Store in a tightly sealed

container away from the light for up to 4 months.


PORTUGUESE GAMBAS MOZAMBIQUE

A legacy of Portugal’s past as a nation of exploring seafarers, this dish comes from

Mozambique, where small, fiery hot piri piri peppers are a signature culinary accent. Look

for wild shrimp, which have far more flavor and firmer texture than often-bland farmed

shrimp. Although prepeeled and frozen shrimp (IQF shrimp) are easier to use, much flavor

is lost in the process. Here we use whole, head-on shrimp for juicy succulence. Serve

the saucy shrimp in bowls with crusty Portuguese bread to soak up the delicious juices.

Substitute beer for the wine if desired.

2 pounds (908 g) large firm shrimp

(21-25 count), peeled and deveined

with last tail shell section left on

1 tablespoon (15 ml) bottled piri piri

hot sauce (substitute Tabasco

or any chile-vinegar hot sauce)

Small handful cilantro, chopped

Small handful Italian parsley,

chopped

1. Melt the butter in a skillet. Add onion and garlic and cook over medium heat until the

onion has softened, about 4 minutes. Add the white wine, lemon juice, salt, and Tempero

da Essência and cook until thickened and syrupy, about 4 minutes.

2. Toss in the shrimp and hot sauce and toss to coat with the pan juices. Cook over

medium heat until the shrimp just turn opaque and start to curl. Add the cilantro and

parsley and toss to combine. Spoon the shrimp and cooking juices into bowls and serve

immediately.

YIELD: 4 servings

92


EUROPEAN BLENDS 93

TUSCANY

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season pork

and veal

spareribs

before slowroasting

or

grilling.

Add to

chicken liver

pâté.

SPEZIE FORTI

This recipe comes from renowned Tuscan chef Cesare Casella. He says, “Spezie forte

translates to ‘robust spice’ and was traditionally used by Tuscan butchers to prepare

sausages. Each butcher has his proprietary blend of these aromatic spices, and I use

mine in many of my dishes at Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto. I use spezie forte in my

slow-cooked spareribs and house-made sausages, dusted on chicken wings, and even

in soups. Another fun fact—many Italians consider it to be a powerful aphrodisiac,

and I like to refer to it as ‘Tuscan Viagra.’” Chef Casella weighs his spices using metric

quantities for greater accuracy, especially when making larger batches. Here we

measure using tablespoons, but if you have a good scale, weigh out at 15 grams

per spice.


2 tablespoons (15 g) grated nutmeg


cinnamon

2 tablespoons (15 g) ground mace

2 tablespoons (15 g) ground juniper

berries


coriander

2 tablespoons (15 g) ground cloves

2 tablespoons (15 g) ground star

anise or ground aniseed

2 tablespoons (15 g) paprika


black pepper

Combine all the ingredients and store in a tightly sealed container in a dark place for

up to 4 months.


variation

I recommend increasing the amount of ground juniper to 1/4 cup (30 g)

and using 2 teaspoons (6 g) of cloves instead of 2 tablespoons (15 g) for

an earthier, woodsy flavor.

Add to the

pan when

cooking

fresh Italian

sausages.

Add to

braised beef

dishes like

stracotto.

94


TUSCAN CHICKEN LIVER SPREAD ON ROSEMARY CROSTINI

In Tuscany, every osteria (country-style restaurant) serves its own version of this pâté

as part of its antipasto offerings, accompanied always by a glass of local red wine. Here

chicken livers are enriched with Italian cured, not smoked, bacon called pancetta, and

flavored with Spezie Forte and umami-rich dried porcini mushrooms and chopped to a

fine, though not puréed, consistency. The spread is best served warm on crostini toasts

but is also delicious served chilled or at room temperature spread on flatbread crisps.

Look for chicken livers from grain-fed chickens, which will be lighter in color and milder in

flavor than those from commercial-grade chickens.

FOR PÂTÉ

1 ounce (about 1/4 cup, or 28 g) dried

porcini mushrooms

1 pound (454 g) chicken livers

2 shallots, chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

1 small carrot, chopped

Handful Italian parsley with small

stems, chopped

1 tablespoon (7 g) Spezie Forte

(page 94)

4 ounces (112 g) pancetta, chopped

2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter

TO MAKE THE PÂTÉ

1. Soak the dried porcini in just enough warm water to cover until softened, about

30 minutes. Scoop the mushrooms from the water and chop finely. Strain the mushroom

soaking liquid through a dampened paper towel placed in a wire sieve to remove any

sand and mix back with the chopped mushrooms.

2. Rinse the chicken livers under cold water, drain well, and pat dry.

3. In a large skillet, sauté the shallots, celery, carrot, parsley, Spezie Forte, and pancetta

in the butter and olive oil until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Season with

salt. When the vegetables are soft, add the chicken livers, chopped porcini and strained

soaking liquid, and white wine. Cook over high heat until the livers are pink inside, but not

fully cooked, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool.

4. Ideally, set up a meat grinder with a large-holed grinding plate and grind to a rough

consistency. Alternatively, transfer to a large cutting board and chop to small bits with

some texture. Or pulse in a food processor to a rough consistency without turning the

mixture into mush.

5. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, add the breadcrumbs and lemon juice, and stir to

combine. The mixture should be soft and juicy, with just enough body to hold its shape.

TO MAKE THE CROSTINI

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Cut the bread on the diagonal into

slices about 3/8-inch (1 cm) thick. Arrange in a single layer on a baking tray. Combine the

oil, rosemary, and garlic in a small bowl and brush the mixture on the bread slices. Turn

the slices over and repeat, brushing lightly.

2. Toast until golden brown, about 12 minutes. Serve with the warm pâté spooned on top.

YIELD: About 11/2 pounds or 31/2 cups (680 g), 12 to 16 servings

2 tablespoons (30 ml)

extra-virgin olive oil


1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine

1/2 cup (55 g) soft breadcrumbs

1/2 lemon, juiced (1 to 11/2

tablespoons, or 15 to 23 ml)

FOR CROSTINI

1 loaf crusty Italian bread or French

baguette, preferably stale


1 tablespoon (2 g) finely chopped

rosemary


SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Two tablespoons

(10 g) whole

juniper will

yield about

2 tablespoons

(15 g) ground.

Grind in a spice

grinder to a

coarse texture

or crush in a

mortar and

pestle. Once

ground, juniper

berries quickly

lose their

fragrance, so

only grind what

you need

To clean a

spice grinder,

crumble a slice

of stale bread

(the end piece

works well) and

run it through

the grinder.

The bread will

absorb the

spice oils in the

grinder. Once

ground, discard

the bread.

EUROPEAN BLENDS 95

6

BLENDS FROM THE

INDIAN

SUBCONTINENT

Fragrant and aromatic, Indian cuisine relies on an enormous

variety and quantity of spices. Native Indian spice, include black

and green cardamom, black cumin, black and long pepper,

true cinnamon, curry leaf, Indian bay leaf, and turmeric. Ginger

is thought to have originated in southern China but half the

world’s production is now in India. Chiles, brought from the

New World by the Portuguese, are used generously in South

India and Sri Lanka. Half of the world’s chiles are produced in

India but 90 percent are consumed locally.

A strong Arab influence is seen in the use of aromatic spices

like ajwain, cumin, coriander, and saffron in Northern India and

Pakistan. Indian spice blends are creations that enhance specific

dishes, many based on fresh ginger, garlic, and green chiles. Dry

blends include Bengali Panch Phoron, Northern Indian Garam

Masala, Balti Masala, and Southern Indian Sambar Podi.

97

SOUTHERN INDIA

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Sprinkle on

buttered

popcorn.

Add to

butternut

squash soup.

Rub shrimp

or scallops

with a little

curry before

pan-searing.

Mix with

mayonnaise

and use

to dress

chicken or

turkey salad

with apples,

grapes,

pears, or

raisins.

Add a pinch

to chicken

soup for

subtle flavor

and yellow

color.

BASIC CURRY POWDER

There are countless variations of curry powder, which is a spice mix of widely varying

composition based on South Asian cuisine. Curry powder and the contemporary

English use of the word curry as a dish of various ingredients seasoned with curry

powder are Western inventions created to satisfy the tastes of British colonials

returning to Great Britain from India. Curry powder is related closest to South Indian

and Sri Lankan Sambar Podi (page 108). Curry gets its name from the Tamil word

kari, meaning “sauce” or “relish.” Curry-like dishes featuring ginger, garlic, and

turmeric were known in the Indus Valley civilization more than 4,000 years ago, which

scientists have discovered by using powerful laboratory microscopes to identify the

ingredients of ancient meals. This curry powder is fragrant and easy to make. Toasting

the spices first brings out their deep, complex flavor.

1/2 cup (40 g) coriander seeds,

preferably Indian


1 tablespoon (8 g) black peppercorns

1 section (1 inch, or 2.5 cm) true



2 teaspoons (6 g) decorticated

cardamom



2 tablespoons (18 g) ground mustard


fenugreek

2 teaspoons (6 g) ground cayenne

1. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the coriander, cumin, peppercorns,

cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. Toast until fragrant, while constantly stirring,

about 3 minutes. Cool to room temperature and then grind in a spice grinder, blender,

or mortar and pestle.

2. Mix well with the remaining ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container in a

dark, cool place for up to 3 months.


INDONESIAN CURRY KETCHUP

It’s all the rage in Germany and Holland—served on wurst and other sausages. It’s time to

discover this Indonesian condiment that is so much more interesting than ordinary tomato

ketchup. Look for it in former Dutch colonies such as Aruba, where every supermarket

carries several brands. The black cardamom pods add a mysterious smoky flavor to the

condiment, while star anise adds spicy sweet fragrance and cloves a warm undertone.

98


6 black cardamom pods

12 star anise pods



1 small onion, diced


1 piece (4 inches, or 10 cm)

fresh gingerroot, peeled and

chopped (2 ounces, or 56 g)

2 cans (28 ounces, or 784 g)

crushed tomatoes


2 cups (470 ml) apple cider vinegar

1 cup (225 g) packed dark brown sugar

1/2 cup (50 g) Basic Curry Powder



1. Wrap the black cardamom, star anise, and whole cloves in a piece of cheesecloth, tie

shut, and reserve.

2. Warm the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the onion, garlic, and ginger

until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, water, vinegar,

brown sugar, curry powder, red pepper flakes, sea salt, and the cheesecloth spice packet

to the pan. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about

45 minutes, stirring often, until the mixture thickens enough to hold its shape.

3. Fish out the spice packet and discard. Blend the sauce in a blender or food processor

until smooth. Cool to room temperature and then transfer to storage containers or jars

and refrigerate for up to 3 months.

YIELD: About 3 quarts (24 kg)

BLENDS FROM THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 99

BALTISTAN

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

curried

chicken,

beef, lamb,

or vegetable

dishes.

Add to rice

and rice

dishes such

as biryani.

Rub on

squash or

sweet potato

wedges or

cubes with a

little oil and

then roast.

BALTI MASALA SPICE MIX

Balti cooking became popular during the 1970s in England, especially in Birmingham,

where every restaurant developed its own mix of spices and style of serving the curry.

Balti curry is typically served in a thin, spun steel, wok-like “Balti bowl” and is on the

dry side because most of the liquid evaporates while cooking. This type of curry may

have originated in the northern Pakistan region of Baltistan in Kashmir, and then

immigrants brought it to Britain. Other common flavorings for Balti masala include

dried rose petals, dried spearmint leaves, bay leaves, and saffron. The process of

creating a Balti Masala Spice Mix is shown step-by-step on page 22.

2 cassia cinnamon quills

(4 inches, or 10 cm)


preferably Indian

4 black cardamom pods, crushed

8 whole cloves


2 tablespoons (15 g) aniseed

2 tablespoons (22 g) black mustard

seeds

1 tablespoon (12 g) fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoons (5 g) ajwain seeds

2 teaspoons (6 g) decorticated

cardamom seeds

2 tablespoons (5 g) crushed dried

fenugreek leaves (methi)

2 tablespoons (2 g) crushed dried

curry leaves

1 tablespoon (5 g) nigella seeds

1. Using a hammer or mallet, crush the cinnamon sticks into small shards.

Heat a large dry skillet over medium heat. Add the cassia, coriander seeds, black

cardamom pods, and cloves. Roast the spices until fragrant and lightly toasted,

shaking the pan constantly. Remove from the heat, cool to room temperature, and

then crush in a mortar and pestle or grind to a slightly coarse powder.

2. Heat the same skillet again. Add the cumin seeds, aniseed, black mustard seeds,

fenugreek, ajwain, and cardamom seeds and roast until fragrant and lightly toasted,

shaking the pan constantly. Remove from the heat, cool to room temperature, and

then crush in a mortar and pestle or grind to a slightly coarse powder. If desired,

strain the spices through a wire sieve for a finer texture.

3. Crush or grind the fenugreek leaves and curry leaves and combine well with the

spices. Stir in the nigella seeds.

4. Store in a tightly sealed container away from the light for up to 6 months.


BEEF BALTI CURRY

Inexpensive but flavorful beef chuck from the shoulder makes the best-tasting rich curry,

here infused with the complex flavors of Balti Masala Spice Mix. You may substitute tender

beef stir-fry strips, but cook them only until cooked through, about 15 minutes, or the

beef will be dry. Substitute lamb shoulder cubes or cubed boneless, skinless chicken thigh

for the beef, if desired. A scattering of brilliant red pomegranate seeds adds sparkle and

bright crunch to the dish, accented with fresh green cilantro sprigs. Serve with steamed

basmati rice, yogurt raita, and Indian chutneys or pickles. The beef and sauce freeze

perfectly.

100


FOR MARINADE

2 tablespoons (14 g) Balti Masala Spice

Mix (page 100)


1 lemon, juiced

1 tablespoon (10 g) ground turmeric

1 tablespoon (5 g) nigella seeds

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground cinnamon


FOR BEEF

3 pounds (1.4 kg) boneless beef chuck

cubes

2 medium onions, halved and thinly

sliced

1 section (3 inches, or 7.5 cm)

fresh gingerroot, peeled and

thinly sliced

6 large cloves garlic

2 tablespoons (14 g) Balti Masala Spice

Mix (page 100)

2 tablespoons (30 g) dark brown sugar


fresh or canned

Pomegranate seeds and cilantro

sprigs (optional), for garnish

TO MAKE THE MARINADE:

Starting 1 day ahead, combine the

marinade ingredients and mix well.

TO MAKE THE BEEF:

1. Combine the beef cubes with the marinade, transfer to a large bowl, cover, and

refrigerate overnight.

2. The next day, remove the beef from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room

temperature, about 1 hour.


4. Transfer the beef cubes to a roasting pan just large enough to hold them.

Roast the beef until brown, about 30 minutes. Transfer the beef to a large braising pan.

Add the onions to the pan and cook over medium heat until softened, about 30 minutes,

stirring often.

5. Meanwhile, combine the ginger, garlic, the Balti Masala, and brown sugar in the bowl

of a food processor or blender. Blend until fairly smooth. Add to the beef along with the

tomatoes and simmer for 30 minutes longer, or until the beef is quite tender and the sauce

has reduced.

6. Scatter the beef with the pomegranate seeds and cilantro and serve immediately.



MUMBAI

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

This recipe

is based on

glowing red

Kashmiri chiles,

which are

medium-hot and

valued for their

vibrant red color.

When roasted,

they impart an

exotic aroma

to vegetable

dishes and rice

pilaf and biryani.

Substitute a

mixture of milder

New Mexico

or California

red chiles and

small hot chiles

such as chile

arbol for the

Kashmiri chiles.

Look for whole

and easier-touse

powdered

Kashmiri chile in

Indian markets

and from online

vendors.

KHOTACHIWADI

EAST INDIAN BOTTLE MASALA

This unique recipe comes from the East Indian community who were the original

settlers of Mumbai and traditionally Christian, living in the tiny serene heritage village

of Khotachiwadi, hidden in the center of the city’s crowds and noise. There, charming

houses are built in the old Portuguese style with courtyards and an external staircase

to access the upstairs bedrooms. The women of the local families practice the art of

pounding spices into a blend known as bottle masala that is unique to each family

and passed down from mother to daughter. The complex mix is made in large enough

quantities to last the whole year. The spices are roasted in clay pots over a wood

fire, hand-pounded using wooden mallets, and finally packed in glass bottles. Stone

flower, a dried edible lichen, may be found online and at Indian markets but may

be omitted. The original recipe called for 1 tablespoon (2 g) maipatri, or mugwort

(Artemisia vulgaris), which may be difficult to find and may be omitted.

3 tablespoons (15 g) coriander seeds,

preferably Indian

1 section (1 inch, or 2.5 cm) true


4 teaspoons (13 g) cumin seeds

2 tablespoons (18 g) sesame seeds

2 tablespoons (15 g) poppy seeds

2 tablespoons (22 g) yellow mustard

seeds

1 tablespoon (2 g) stone flower

(optional)


4 star anise pods

2 teaspoons (6 g) fennel seeds

2 teaspoons (8 g) fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoons (3 g) black cumin or

more cumin seeds


1/4 whole nutmeg (crush with a mallet

or hammer)

2 blades mace

2 teaspoons (1.5 g) crumbled Indian

bay leaves or bay laurel leaves

2 ounces (56 g) Kashmiri chile powder

1/4 cup (30 g) whole wheat flour


1. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Roast the spices (everything except the

Kashmiri chile powder, whole wheat flour, and turmeric) until lightly browned and

fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove from the skillet and cool to room temperature.

2. Add the Kashmiri chile powder, whole wheat flour, and turmeric to the skillet and

roast briefly, about 1 minute, until lightly browned and fragrant. Remove from the

skillet and cool to room temperature.

3. Grind the roasted whole spices to a slightly coarse powder in a mortar and pestle,

a spice or coffee grinder, or a blender. Combine well with the chile powder, flour, and

turmeric.

4. Pack into glass jars or metal tins using a funnel. Store in a dark, cool place for up

to 1 year.

YIELD: 21/2 cups (300 g)

102


did you know?

Stone flower is a feathery lichen, known as dagad phool or kalpasi, with a strong, sweet

aroma that is released when the lichen hits the hot oil of a cooking pan. It is used in small

quantities to impart unique flavor to masalas in the Southern Indian region of Chettinad.

LONVAS CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS AND PUMPKIN CURRY

This curry is typical of the East Indian community and is traditionally made with bottle

masala and the speckled green-skinned ash gourd, or petha in Hindi, which can keep in

the pantry for as long as one year. It is also known as winter gourd, winter melon, or white

pumpkin. Here we use dense, meaty pumpkin such as Japanese kuri or Spanish calabaza.

The curry may be prepared with beef or mutton instead of the drumsticks and cauliflower

or okra instead of the ash gourd. This old Mumbai Christian community also makes pork

lonvas and prawn lonvas. Serve the curry over steamed basmati rice.

3 pounds (1.4 kg) chicken drumsticks

1 teaspoon sea salt

6 tablespoons (90 ml) ghee (clarified

butter) or vegetable oil, divided

1/2 cup (120 ml) water

3 large cloves garlic, crushed

1 pound (454 g) Japanese kuri squash,

calabaza, or ash gourd, peeled and

cubed

3 tablespoons (22 g) Khotachiwadi

East Indian Bottle Masala (page 102)

1 can (13.5 ounces, or 378 g) rich


2 tablespoons (36 g) tamarind purée

(see page 83)

1. Season the chicken with the salt. Heat 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the ghee in a large

Dutch oven and then brown the chicken well, working in batches if necessary. Add the

water, cover, and cook the drumsticks until tender, about 20 minutes. Remove the chicken

from the pan and reserve.

2. Wipe out the pan, add the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml) ghee and the garlic and heat

together until the garlic is fragrant. Add the squash and bottle masala and sauté until the

squash has softened, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved chicken and the coconut milk and

bring to a slow boil. Cook together until the sauce has thickened slightly, about 5 minutes,

then stir in the tamarind purée. Allow the curry to rest for a few minutes before serving.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season

chicken,

shrimp, pork,

or vegetable

curries.

Add to

cooked

lentils or

chickpeas.

Use to

season rice

or potatoes.

Add to

tomato

sauce, soups,

lentil dishes,

and to top

pizza.


NORTHERN INDIA

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season a

multitude of

Pakistani and

Northern and

Southern

Indian

dishes,

including

kebabs,

biryani

rice dishes,

breads, and

chutneys.

GARAM MASALA

Garam masala is the best known of India’s spice mixes and originates in Northern

India’s Persian-derived Mogul cuisine. This versatile mix of roasted spices is made in

a variety of styles across the Indian subcontinent. It is conceptually related to Turkish

baharat, Chinese Five-Spice Powder, and even French quatre épices, which are all

based on black peppercorns combined with sweet aromatic spices. In Pakistan, onions

are fried until golden brown and then the garam masala is added to the hot oil to bring

out its flavor before being added to rice pilau (pilaf). The Indian coriander seeds used

here are lemon-shaped, rather than round, as in the more common Mediterranean

coriander. Its flavor is brighter and more lemony than the European variety.

3 true cinnamon sticks

(2 to 3 inches, or 5 to 7.5 cm)

1/2 cup (50 g) white or green cardamom

pods, 3 tablespoons (30 g)

decorticated cardamom,

or 2 tablespoons (12 g) ground

cardamom

6 bay leaves


preferably Indian



1 tablespoon (5 g) whole cloves

1. Break up the cinnamon sticks into small shards by placing in a heavy-duty

resealable plastic bag or a clean towel and using a hammer or meat mallet to crush.

If using whole cardamom, break open the pods, remove the hard black seeds, and

discard the pods. Crumble the bay leaves.

2. Heat a small, dry skillet, preferably uncoated (such as steel or cast iron), over high

heat. Add the cinnamon, cardamom seeds, bay leaves, coriander seeds, cumin seeds,

peppercorns, and cloves. Toast, shaking the pan occasionally, until the spices are

lightly browned and fragrant. Watch the spices carefully at this point so they don’t

turn black and become bitter.

3. Remove from the heat and cool the spices to room temperature. Grind to a powder

in a small coffee grinder, preferably one reserved for spices. Alternatively, crush the

seeds using a mortar and pestle. Store in a tightly sealed container away from the

light for up to 4 months.


Other Spices Used in Garam Masala

• Ajwain (carom) seeds

• Anardana (dried pomegranate seeds)

• Black cumin (kala jeera)

• Cubeb pepper

• Fennel seeds

• Mace

• Mustard seeds

• Nutmeg

• Stone flower (lichen)

• Turmeric

• White peppercorns

104


TOMATO KASUNDI CHUTNEY

This hot and spicy mustard-based tomato

chutney comes from Bengal, where it

is known as tamtar kasundi. Its various

savory and spicy flavors maintain their

distinct characters, yet, at the same time,

seamlessly blend with one another. In

India, the kasundi would accompany a

main dish with naan or paratha bread. It’s

the perfect dip for fried foods such as fish,

samosas, and pakoras. Try it on burgers,

grilled fish or chicken, or as a spread for

turkey and tuna sandwiches.

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

4 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

4 hot green chiles, such as jalapeño or

serrano, seeded and sliced

1 section fresh gingerroot,(2 inches,

or 5 cm) peeled and sliced

1/4 cup (60 ml) mustard oil (available

in Indian markets), or 1/4 cup (60 ml)

vegetable oil plus 2 tablespoons (18 g)

ground mustard


2 tablespoons (14 g) Garam Masala

(page 104)



1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably true cinnamon

1 cup (300 g) tamarind purée (see page 83)

2 cans (28 ounces, or 784 g each) chopped plum tomatoes or

4 pounds (1.8 kg) ripe plum tomatoes, skinned, seeded, and chopped

2 tablespoons (30 g) dark brown sugar


1 bunch cilantro, chopped

1. Combine the onion, garlic, chiles, and ginger in the bowl of a food processor and grind

to a slightly chunky paste.

2. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil, add the mustard seeds, and cover, cooking

until the seeds pop. Add the Garam Masala, turmeric, cumin, cardamom, and cinnamon

to the pan, stir to combine, and then add the onion-garlic-chile paste. Fry the paste in the

spices until fragrant, about 3 minutes, stirring constantly.

3. Add the tamarind purée, tomatoes, brown sugar, and salt and cook over low heat until

thickened, stirring frequently, about 30 minutes, adding water if the sauce is overly thick.

The oil will rise to the top when the kasundi has thickened sufficiently. Remove from the

heat and stir in the cilantro. Cool to room temperature and then transfer to a storage

container. Refrigerate for up to 4 months.

YIELD: About 1 quart (900 g)


BENGAL

PANCH PHORON

Panch means “five,” and this five-seed mixture from Bengal, a region famous all over

India for its distinct cuisine, is also known as Bengali five spice. The spices are usually

fried in oil or ghee (clarified butter) until they start popping, a technique known as

tempering. After tempering, other ingredients are added to the fried spices to be

coated in the mixture. Panch Phoron, which is not hot, owes its flavor to the contrast

between sweet fennel and bitter fenugreek seeds along with earthy cumin, acrid

nigella, and umami-rich radhuni, a local spice with celery flavor in the celery family

and closely related to ajwain. Mustard seeds are the most common substitute.


1/4 cup (20 g) nigella seeds


2 tablespoons (25 g) crushed

fenugreek seeds


Combine all the ingredients and store in a tightly sealed container away from light

and heat for up to 6 months.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use as a

coating on

roast meats.

Sprinkle

on Indian

breads.

Sprinkle

on hearty

vegetables,

especially

eggplant,

green beans,

potatoes,

okra, and

cauliflower.

GOLD POTATOES WITH PANCH PHORON

The asafetida called for here imparts a potent, trufflelike aroma to the potatoes while the

Panch Phoron spices, which cling to the potatoes as they fry, add resinous, sweet, earthy,

and savory notes to the dish. Turmeric enhances the natural gold color of the potatoes.

The most flavorful potatoes to use are gold varieties such as Yukon or Finnish, but choose

larger potatoes with thick skins, which will be starchier. Substitute russet potatoes for a

firmer texture.

2 pounds (454 g) gold potatoes,

peeled if skin is thick

1 cup (120 ml) vegetable oil

1 teaspoon asafetida

6 tablespoons (27 g) Panch Phoron


2 teaspoons sea salt

1. Cut the potatoes into 1/2-inches to 3/4-inch (1.3 to 2 cm) dice.

2. Heat the oil in a wok or a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the asafetida, stir to

flavor the oil, and then quickly add the Panch Phoron and the potatoes. Cook together

over medium heat until the potatoes are almost cooked through and lightly colored.

Add the turmeric and continue to fry until the potatoes are golden and the spices cling

to the potatoes.

3. Scoop the potatoes from the oil using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer and drain well

on a wire rack placed over a baking pan or on paper towels. Transfer to a bowl and toss

with the salt. Serve immediately while still piping hot.


106



SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Asafetida is

the notoriously

smelly, dried

yellow-brownish

resin extracted

from the root of

a plant (Ferula

assafoetida)

that grows wild

from the Eastern

Mediterranean

to Central Asia.

Asafetida gets

its name from

two languages:

assa from

Farsi, meaning

“resin,” and

Latin foetidus,

meaning

“stinky.” To

those who

have become

accustomed

to it, asafetida

is intriguingly

stimulating,

with an earthy,

trufflelike

aroma. The

pure resin is the

strongest form,

but the powder,

known as hing in

Indian markets,

is easier to

use. The yellow

powder is milder

than the gray.

Asafetida resin

lasts indefinitely,

but in powdered

form it loses

much of its

aroma after

about 6 months.

ALLEPPEY

SAMBAR PODI

Starting with whole spices and lightly toasting them before grinding yields a more

fragrant, fresher mixture. If you can find the lemon-shaped Indian coriander seeds

instead of the more common round Mediterranean coriander seeds, use them.

Dark gold in color, Alleppey turmeric, from Alleppey, India, is preferable to common

turmeric. Sambar Podi (sambar powder) is indispensable to Southern Indian cooking.

Its most important element is coriander, with cumin next on the list, as well as black

mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, hot chiles, and roasted legumes such as lentils or

split chickpeas, which add flavor and thickening power to the mix.

6 tablespoons (30 g) coriander seeds,

preferably Indian


3 tablespoons (30 g) chana dal

(small split chickpeas—found in

Indian markets)

1 tablespoon (11 g) black mustard

seeds

1 tablespoon (12 g) fenugreek seeds



1 teaspoon decorticated cardamom


true cinnamon, crumbled

1 whole dried red chile pepper, such

as chile arbol, crumbled with seeds

discarded


2 tablespoons (12 g) ground dried

ginger

2 teaspoons (6 g) ground yellow

asafetida

1. Heat a small, dry skillet, preferably uncoated (such as steel or cast iron), over high

heat. Add the coriander, cumin, chana dal, mustard, fenugreek, peppercorns, cloves,

cardamom, cinnamon, and dried chile. Toast, shaking the pan occasionally, until the

spices are lightly browned and fragrant. Watch the spices carefully at this point so

they don’t turn black and become bitter.

2. Cool to room temperature and then grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle.

3. Combine with the turmeric, dried ginger, and asafetida. If desired, strain through

a wire sieve for a finer texture.

4. Store in a tightly sealed container away from the light for up to 4 months.


108


SRI LANKAN COCONUT VEGETABLE CURRY

WITH CASHEWS AND YAMS

Sri Lanka has long been renowned for its fragrant spices, especially top-quality true

cinnamon, which is produced there and exported mainly to the United States, Mexico,

Peru, and Colombia. Since ancient times, traders from all over the world who came to Sri

Lanka brought their native cuisines to the island, resulting in a rich diversity of cooking

styles and techniques. Coconut is an important ingredient, as are fiery hot chiles, which

the locals develop a tolerance for. In this mixed vegetable curry, cashews—brought to

the region by the Portuguese from Brazil, where it is native—and toasted unsweetened

coconut add richness and nutty flavor, while rich coconut milk yields a creamy sauce.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season Sri

Lankan

curries

usually made

with coconut

milk.

Add a pinch

to the filling

for deviled

eggs.

1 pound (454 g) yams, peeled,

quartered lengthwise, and cut into

1/2-inch (1.3 cm) thick slices

1 medium eggplant, peeled if desired

and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) dice

1/2 pound (227 g) young okra (substitute

green beans), stems removed, cut in

half lengthwise

1 small cauliflower, cored and cut into

small florets

1 medium sweet onion, diced


2 tablespoons (16 g) grated fresh

gingerroot


3 tablespoons (45 ml) lime juice

1. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the sliced yams and

cook for 5 minutes, or until half tender. Drain and cool. Combine the yams, eggplant, okra,

cauliflower, and onion in a large bowl. Season with the salt, ginger, garlic, and lime juice

and rub into the vegetables. Marinate the vegetables at room temperature for 30 minutes

or refrigerate up to overnight before cooking.


3. Spread the shredded coconut on a baking sheet and toast until lightly browned, about

10 minutes. Cool and then combine the coconut with half the cashews in a food processor.

Grind to a rough, chunky powder. Reserve the remaining cashews for garnish.

4. In a wide heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Cook the

vegetables until crisp-tender, about 10 minutes, stirring so they cook evenly, working in

two batches if necessary. Stir in the Sambar Podi and cinnamon and cook until fragrant,

about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and cook a few minutes longer. Add the ground

coconut-cashew powder, coconut milk, and spinach. Bring back to the boil and simmer

until the sauce has thickened slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and

sprinkle with the reserved whole cashews. Serve over steamed basmati rice.

YIELD: 8 servings

1/2 cup (40 g) shredded dried

unsweetened coconut

1/4 pound (1 cup, or 114 g) toasted

cashews, divided

2 tablespoons (30 ml) coconut oil

3 tablespoons (21 g) Sambar Podi

(page 108)

1 tablespoon (5 g) ground true

cinnamon

1 cup (180 g) chopped tomatoes,

canned or fresh

1 can (13.5 ounces, or 378 g)


1/2 pound (227 g) spinach,

stemmed and washed

Steamed basmati rice, for serving

Add a pinch

to the

pan when

sautéing

mushrooms.

Add a pinch

to tomatobased

curry

dishes.

110


PONDICHERRY, INDIA

VADOUVAN

This complex and hauntingly fragrant masala comes from Pondicherry, a former

French colony on the eastern coast of India. It is based on abundant browned shallots

and garlic from French cuisine combined with curry spices such as turmeric and

fenugreek, and curry leaves. This home version makes a moist spice paste; other

versions yield a dry spice mix in which the roasted shallots and garlic are dehydrated.

2 pounds (908 g) shallots, peeled and

quartered

1 head (about 14 large cloves) garlic,

peeled



preferably Indian



2 tablespoons (22 g) black mustard

seeds

1 tablespoon (10 g) decorticated

cardamom

1 whole nutmeg, grated

(11/2 teaspoons ground nutmeg)


1 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper

1 teaspoon hot red chile flakes

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves


2 tablespoons (2 g) crumbled dried

curry leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 200°F (95°C). Line a baking pan with parchment paper.

2. Coarsely chop the shallots and garlic using a food processor and working in

batches. Pulse briefly several times until the mixture has broken down into smaller

chunks. Stir once or twice and pulse again until the mixture is evenly chopped into

small bits.

3. Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet, such as cast iron, then sauté the shallots and

garlic, stirring often, until light golden brown, about 15 minutes.

4. Separately, heat a separate small dry skillet, then add the coriander seeds,

fenugreek, cumin, mustard seeds, and cardamom and toast lightly until fragrant,

shaking the pan frequently. Cool the spices to room temperature and then grind to

a coarse powder in a spice grinder, blender, or mortar and pestle.

5. Combine the shallot mixture, ground spice mix, nutmeg, turmeric, black pepper,

red chile flakes, cloves, and salt. Transfer to the prepared baking pan and, using

fingertips, spread out thinly and evenly to a thickness of about 1/4 inch (6 mm). Bake,

stirring occasionally, until evenly browned, about 45 minutes, then stir and then

spread out evenly again and bake for 45 minutes longer, until the mixture forms a

thick paste.

6. Cool to room temperature and then add the curry leaves. Store in an airtight

container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.


SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Curry leaves are

the small oval

leaves of the

tropical curry

tree (Murraya

koenigii), a

member of the

citrus family and

native to India.

The leaves,

which are dark

green on top

and pale green

underneath,

run in pairs

up the smaller

branches of the

tree. They give

off their nutty

fragrance with

hints of anise

and tangerine

when bruised

or rubbed.

Curry leaves

are essential to

the vegetarian

cuisines of

Southern India

and Sri Lanka,

though they

are also used in

Northern India.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Spread on

fish and

seafood

before pansearing,

roasting, or

grilling.

Spread on

grilled or

roasted slabs

of eggplant,

zucchini,

and/or yellow

squash.

Stir into

thick Greekstyle

yogurt

with a little

lime juice

to make

a dip for

vegetables.

The chutney

is also

delicious

served

with grilled

salmon or

other oil-rich

fish such as

albacore

tuna, bluefish,

or sardines.

GRILLED VADOUVAN SALMON

WITH DATE-TAMARIND CHUTNEY

Here, Franco-Indian Vadouvan, with its roasted garlic and shallot notes, seasons a side

of salmon. A drizzle of syrupy sweet-tart date and tamarind chutney scented with Garam

Masala accents the fish perfectly. Wild salmon is the best choice for its firm texture and

distinctive flavor. If using sockeye, don’t cook to more than medium-rare so it stays juicy.

Frozen sockeye, partially but not fully defrosted, is a fine substitute when fresh is out

of season.

1/2 cup (112 g) Vadouvan (page 111)



1 side (2 to 3 pounds, or 908 to 1.4 kg)

wild salmon, preferably wild

king or sockeye, trimmed and pin

bones removed

Date-Tamarind Chutney

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, or gas mark 6). Line a baking pan with parchment

paper or oil the baking pan.

2. Combine the Vadouvan, salt, and oil in a bowl. Spread the mixture on the flesh side of

the salmon. Place the seasoned salmon onto the prepared baking pan flesh side up and

roast for about 15 minutes, or until medium-rare to medium but not fully cooked.

3. Remove the salmon from the oven. Either serve whole accompanied by the chutney or

serve individual portions on top of a small pool of the chutney.


DATE-TAMARIND CHUTNEY

This recipe from Mumbai is a smooth, thick, dark sweet-tart spoonable chutney made

from a combination of dates and tamarind, two ingredients that have an ancient history

in India. It is a standard in Indian restaurants and is served with flatbreads and legumes

like lentils and chickpeas.

16 dates, pits removed, preferably

large Medjools

1/2 pound (1 cup, or 227 g) packed dark

brown sugar

1 quart (940 ml) water


fresh gingerroot, peeled, thinly sliced,

and then chopped

1 cup (300 g) strained Tamarind Purée

(see page 83)

1 tablespoon (7 g) Garam Masala

(page 104)



1. Combine the dates, brown sugar, and

water in a large heavy pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then reduce the heat to a

simmer. Cook until the dates are quite soft, about 8 minutes. Add the ginger and tamarind

purée and cook over low heat until thickened and dark in color, stirring often, about 15

minutes.

2. Combine the mixture in a blender until smooth or use an immersion blender.

3. Return the mixture to the pot and boil until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon

(it will thicken more as it cools), about 10 minutes. Stir in the garam masala, hot red

pepper flakes, and sea salt. The taste should balance sweet, salty, hot, and sour flavors.

4. Cool to room temperature in a storage container. Refrigerate up to 2 months or freeze.

YIELD: About 1 quart (900 g)

112



INDIAN SUBCONTINENT

SPICED TARKA

This cooking technique and garnish from India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, also known

as chaunk in Hindu, uses the baghar method, often translated as “tempering,” to create

a hot spiced oil (see page 19 for step-by-step photos). After frying, the resulting tarka is

spooned on top of bland, starchy foods such as dal (see below) and rice.

1/4 cup (60 ml) ghee (clarified butter;

vegetable oil may be substituted)

1 tablespoon (6 g) cumin seeds

2 teaspoons (7 g) black mustard

seeds

2 teaspoons (4 g) fennel seeds


1 section (1 inch, or 2.5 cm)

fresh gingerroot, peeled and grated

1 teaspoon asafetida

1. Heat the ghee in a small, heavy skillet. Add the dry spices—here, cumin, mustard

seeds, and fennel—to the skillet. Fry briefly until they brown lightly and release their

aromas.

2. Add the wet spices—garlic and ginger—to the skillet. Fry briefly until they brown

lightly and release their aromas, then add the asafetida, which burns easily, and fry

briefly.

YIELD: About 1/4 cup (60 ml)

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Dry spices

typically used

for tarka include

cumin, mustard,

fenugreek, black

mustard, fennel,

cassia, cloves,

asafetida, and

ajwain; fresh

spices typically

include onion,

garlic, ginger,

curry leaves,

Indian bay

leaves, and hot

chiles.

RED LENTIL DAL WITH SPICED TARKA

Dal, a thick purée of easily digested skinned and split legumes such as these red lentils,

is a staple food eaten with rice in Southern India and Sri Lanka and with rice and roti

flatbread in Northern India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Nepal. The Hindu word dal

comes from the Sanskrit for “split.” This simplest of poor people’s vegetarian dishes is

flavorful and satisfying, especially when finished with a hot spiced butter tarka. It forms

an important source of vegetable protein for those eating little to no meat. Toor dal is

made from yellow pigeon peas; chana dal is made from chickpeas; mung dal is made from

green mung beans; and urad dal is made from black mung beans. Masoor dal, the type

used here, is made from split red lentils. Split yellow peas, while not common in the India

subcontinent, are prevalent in U.S. and Caribbean Indian communities, where it is simply

known as “dal.” Any of these legumes may be substituted for the red lentils.

1 pound (454 g) split red lentils

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon sea salt

6 cups (1.4 L) water

1. Combine the lentils, turmeric, salt, and water in a medium pot. Bring to a boil over high

heat, then reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the lentils

disintegrate into a thick, soupy purée.

2. Just before serving, add lemon juice to the dal, and then spoon on the hot Spiced

Tarka and sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro.


1 lemon, juiced

1 recipe Spiced Tarka

1 handful cilantro, chopped for garnish

114



7

BLENDS FROM THE

MIDDLE

EAST

The Middle Eastern region stretches from the Mediterranean

east to Iran, north to Turkey, and south to the Persian Gulf. Early

spice trade routes from China and India transversed the region

to reach the Mediterranean, bringing diverse spices. Ajwain,

anise, coriander, cumin, fennel, mahlab cherry, nigella, oregano,

rocket, rosemary, sage, saffron, savory, sumac, and thyme are

considered to be native. Coriander, cumin, mahlab cherry, nigella,

sumac, and saffron are important regional seasonings. Sesame,

is used in seed form or crushed into creamy tahini paste.

Other important spices originated in West or Central Asia,

including asafetida, bay leaf, black mustard, dill, fenugreek,

garlic, marjoram, onion, poppy, rose, and tarragon. In the

Arabian Peninsula, food is seasoned with fiery blends such as

Yemeni Zhoug and Hawaij, and Turkish Baharat, while Iranian

Advieh relies on roses and dried limes.

117

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Limu omani are

dried, salted

whole limes

used frequently

in Persian and

Persian Gulf

cooking. They

can be found

in Iranian and

sometimes

Indian grocery

stores. The limes

are harvested,

cooked in salt

water, and

then oven- or

sun-dried. In

this state, they

keep for up to

two years. You

can also buy

limu omani

in powdered

form, which is

easier to use

in recipes. The

limes come in

white, dark tan,

or black, with

the white the

most delicate

form. Stronger

powdered black

lime is also used

as an ingredient

in Persian Gulf–

style baharat

(a spice mixture

that is also

called kabsa

or kebsa).

IRAN

ADVIEH

Persian Advieh, cousin to Garam Masala, is a blend of five or more spices, perfumed

with dried rose petals from Iran’s famed Ispahan roses. Advieh for rice dishes tends to

be more fragrant and is sprinkled on the rice just before serving. Advieh for khoresht,

or meat stews, usually includes tart dried limes and generous amounts of bittersweet

saffron. Advieh for pickles emphasizes spicy and tart flavors. Other common additions

to advieh are star anise, angelica leaves (found in Iranian groceries), black pepper,

turmeric, ginger, cloves, sesame seeds, saffron (the world’s best grows in Iran, where

saffron originates), and pistachios. Advieh is characterized by its sweet, delicate flavor

with the haunting perfume of rose and the sharp, slightly bitter tang of dried lime.

1/4 cup (50 g) dried culinary roses,

or 2 tablespoons (16 g) culinary

rose petals


cinnamon, preferably true

cinnamon

2 tablespoons (16 g) ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons (12 g) ground black

pepper

1 tablespoon (6 g) ground cardamom


1 tablespoon (5 g) ground limu omani

If the roses are whole, crumble them, removing and discarding everything but the

petals. Combine all the ingredients. Store in an airtight container in a dark, cool place

for up to 4 months.


WATERMELON, LABNE, AND MINT SALAD

WITH LIME-ADVIEH DRESSING

The best version of this salad is made with yellow and red watermelons, here accented

with tangy labne (Lebanese strained yogurt cheese) and sprightly lime-advieh dressing.

The small, sweet, golden Yellow Baby melons are sometimes found at farmers’ markets

but are not available commercially. Most watermelons these days are bred to be seedless,

which is more convenient but their texture can be mushy and their flavor dull. A firm,

deeply colored melon is best here. Have a clean kitchen cloth or paper towels ready to

mop up the abundant juices released when cutting the watermelon. Native to southern

Africa, sweet, juicy thirst-quenching watermelons have been cultivated in Egypt since the

second millennium BCE and are found throughout the Middle East, where the seeds are

toasted and served as a snack with drinks.

1 small watermelon, preferably

seedless


6 tablespoons (90 ml) freshly squeezed

lime juice (about 3 limes)

1/2 lime, zested

2 tablespoons (12 g) Advieh


Freshly ground black pepper

1 small handful spearmint leaves,

shredded

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 pound (227 g) labne

1/2 cup (70 g) toasted pumpkin seeds

(optional), for garnish

118


SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Purchase

food-grade or

culinary roses

that have not

been sprayed

with poisonous

insecticides,

or organically

grown roses, or

grow and dry

your own.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

1. Cut off the two ends of the watermelon. Pare away and discard the outer green skin of

the watermelon, cutting down as far as the red flesh. Cut into two hemispheres and lay

them flat side down on a work surface. Cut into slices about 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) thick, then

cut into smaller rectangles, squares, or triangles. Pat with a paper towel to remove excess

surface liquid.

2. Whisk together the olive oil, lime juice, lime zest, most of the Advieh, salt, and pepper.

In a large bowl, lightly toss the watermelon pieces, spearmint, and red onion with enough

of the dressing to coat generously. Arrange in a salad bowl or on individual salad plates.

3. Spoon dabs of the labne all over the top of the salad and sprinkle with the remaining

Advieh and the pumpkin seeds, if using.

YIELD: 6 servings

Sprinkle

on rice

dishes after

cooking.

Sprinkle on

chicken and

bean dishes.

Use to

season

meatballs

and kebabs.

Use to

season

Persian

stews called

khoresht.

BLENDS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST 119

TURKEY

BAHARAT

Baharat simply means “spices” in Arabic and derives from the Arabic word for black

pepper, which it always includes along with hot spices like paprika and chiles; sweet

spices such as allspice, cloves, cassia, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cardamom; warm

spices (e.g., cumin and coriander); and resinous herbs (e.g., savory and mint). Often

the powdered spice blend is fried in butter, similar to the Indian tarka method of

frying spices before pouring over dal. The Syrian version emphasizes allspice. Turkish

Baharat includes mint, while in Tunisia, Baharat is a simple aromatic mixture of dried

rosebuds, ground cinnamon, and black pepper. In the Persian Gulf region, ground

limu omani (dried limes) and saffron may also be used for the spice mixture known

there as Gulf baharat or kabsa.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use as a

flavoring

for lamb

and beef,

especially

kebabs and

meatballs.

Add to

tomato

sauce and

to the filling

for dolma

(stuffed

vegetables

and stuffed

grape

leaves).

Use to flavor

the ground

lamb topping

for lahmajun

(Turkish

flatbread

“pizza”).


1/4 cup (10 g) dried savory leaf (thyme

makes a good substitute)

1/4 cup (6 g) dried spearmint leaves

(also known as nana in Arabic)

GRILLED SIMIT KEBABS

Simit gets its name from the Arabic word semiz, for semolina wheat. The Greeks of Asia

Minor, famed for their cuisine, brought Turkish dishes such as this back to Greece after

Greek independence in 1922. One of the most important ingredients aside from the

ground lamb is bulgur wheat, which binds the meat, along with ground pistachios. The

kebabs are served on grilled pita bread spread with thick Greek-style yogurt and then

topped with the kebabs. A side of grilled or roasted hot or sweet banana peppers and

tomato halves are placed on either side with a mound of parsley, sumac, and sweet onion

salad garnishing the kebabs.

FOR KEBABS

1/2 cup (100 g) fine bulgur

11/2 cups (355 ml) water, divided

1 cup (145 g) shelled pistachios

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced

1 small sweet onion, finely diced


1/2 bunch parsley, chopped

1/2 bunch spearmint, chopped, or

2 tablespoons (3 g) dried spearmint


peppercorns


1 cinnamon quill, preferably true

cinnamon, crumbled

1 nutmeg, grated

Combine all the spices in a bowl and mix well. Grind in a spice grinder or mortar and

pestle to a slightly coarse texture, working in batches if necessary. Store in a tightly

sealed container away from the light for up to 6 months.


2 tablespoons (12 g) Baharat

2 tablespoons Turkish red pepper paste

(30 g) or sweet paprika (12 g)

2 teaspoons Turkish Maras pepper (5 g)

or hot red pepper flakes (3 g)

Sea salt and ground black pepper

2 pounds (908 g) finely ground lamb

Olive oil, for brushing

120


FOR SERVING

1 small sweet onion, thinly sliced

1 large bunch Italian parsley,

coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon (8 g) ground sumac

6 to 8 long sweet frying peppers,

such as banana or cubanelle

6 to 8 firm but ripe tomatoes, halved

Olive oil, for brushing

6 to 8 pita breads

2 cups (450 g) plain Greek yogurt

TO MAKE THE KEBABS:

1. Place the bulgur in a heat-safe bowl.

Bring 1 cup (235 ml) of the water to a boil

in a saucepan over high heat and pour

over the bulgur. Leave to soften until

plump, about 30 minutes, then drain.

2. Combine the pistachios and

remaining 1/2 cup (120 ml) cold water in

the bowl of a food processor and blend

to a chunky paste.

3. Combine the ground pistachio paste with the scallions, onion, garlic, parsley, mint,

Baharat, red pepper paste, Maras pepper, bulgur, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well

to combine evenly. Add the ground lamb and knead well until combined. Form the lamb

mixture into 12 to 16 flat sausage shapes around steel sword skewers, pressing to flatten

the meat and indenting the kebabs every inch (2.5 cm) or so.

4. Preheat a charcoal or gas grill until the coals are white hot and no open flames are

still burning. Or preheat the broiler. Brush the kebabs with oil and grill or broil until well

browned on both sides.

TO SERVE:

1. Combine the onion, parsley, and sumac in a small bowl and reserve.

2. Brush the peppers and tomatoes with oil and grill or broil. Brush the pita breads with

oil and grill or toast.

3. Place the pita breads on individual serving plates. Smear with the yogurt. Top with two

kebabs for each portion. Place a grilled pepper and a grilled tomato half on either side of

the kebabs. Spoon the onion mixture over the kebabs and serve immediately.



SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

You may

substitute

pretoasted,

crushed sesame

seeds sold in

Korean markets

for the white

sesame.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Sprinkle

on labne

(yogurt

cheese) and

drizzle with

extra-virgin

olive oil and

use as a

dipper for

pita.

Use to

season

grilled lamb

or beef

kebabs.

Sprinkle

generously

on hummus,

tahini, or

eggplant

baba

ghanoush.

Sprinkle

on grilled

or roasted

vegetables

or on a

green salad.

SYRIA, PALESTINE, AND LEBANON

ZA’ATAR MIX

Za’atar is an Arabic word used to describe highly aromatic local marjoram (Majorana

syriaca), which grows in the Eastern Mediterranean, especially Jordan, and tastes

and smells like a combination of thyme (Thymus vulgaris), summer savory (Satureja

hortensis), and oregano (Origanum vulgare). Confusingly, similarly scented herbs,

including oregano, calamint (Calamintha sylvatica, known in Rome as nepitella),

thyme, and savory, are also known as za’atar where they grow. By extension, za’atar

is also a tangy blend of za’atar or a similar herb, tart brick-red ground sumac berries,

and richly nutty toasted sesame seeds. You may substitute thyme, summer savory,

oregano, calamint, or a combination of these resinous herbs for the za’atar herb.

1 cup (144 g) white sesame seeds

1 cup (50 g) dried za’atar leaves (any

or all of the herbs listed above will

work)

ZA'ATAR MANOUSH

This Lebanese specialty is pita bread topped with olive oil and za’atar mix. It is usually

served at breakfast often accompanied by tangy thick labne, similar to Greek yogurt.

Some cooks add crushed mahlab to the dough. The stones of St. Lucy’s cherries (Prunus

mahaleb) contain small beige kernels called mahlab, which are about the size of a large

peppercorn and have a distinct, bittersweet flavor reminiscent of almond extract. The soft

bread rounds can be eaten either rolled up or torn into pieces and used to mop up stews

or as a dipper for hummus and baba ghanoush. You may also make this bread with bread

flour, though you will need to add more water.

1 packet (21/4 teaspoons, or 9 g)

active dried yeast

1 tablespoon (20 g) honey

2 cups (470 ml) lukewarm water,

divided

11/4 pounds (568 g) unbleached

all-purpose flour, or 3/4 pound

(340 g) all-purpose flour and

1/2 pound (227 g) whole wheat flour

1/2 cup (48 g) ground sumac

2 tablespoons (36 g) sea salt

1. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat and add the sesame seeds. Toast lightly while

shaking often until the seeds are golden brown and give off their nutty fragrance,

about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

2. Combine the toasted sesame with the remaining ingredients in a mortar and

pestle and crush to a chunky, slightly oily mixture. Store at room temperature for up

to 2 weeks or refrigerate for longer storage. Za’atar’s flavor will begin to fade after

2 months.


1 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-virgin

olive oil, divided

1/4 cup (22 g) za’atar mix

122


1. In a small bowl, dissolve the yeast and

honey in 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the water, cover

with a damp towel, and set aside in a

warm place for about 20 minutes, or until

the mixture is frothy.

2. Combine the flour and salt in the bowl

of a mixer (or a large mixing bowl). Using

the dough hook or mixing by hand, pour

in the yeast mixture. Add the remaining

13/4 cups (410 ml) water as needed to form

a soft dough about the consistency of

pizza dough. Knead 3 tablespoons (45 ml)

of the oil into the dough. Beat or knead by

hand until the dough is smooth, elastic,

and shiny (about 10 minutes), and then

roll into a ball.

3. Rub more oil onto the inside surface of

a large mixing bowl and place the dough in

it. Roll around so the surface of the dough

is completely coated with the oil. Cover

the top of the bowl with plastic wrap or a

clean, damp cloth and set aside in a warm

place until the dough has doubled in

volume (about 11/2 hours).

4. Knock down the dough to release the

gasses, then on a floured work surface roll out the dough into a long tube. Cut into 8 equal

portions and form each one into a smooth ball. Flatten and stretch each ball into a round

about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Arrange on lightly oiled baking pans, cover again, and set aside

in a warm place to rise a second time until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes. Press

your finger into the dough round; when the dough is ready the depression won’t spring

back.


6. Form indentations in each round by poking with your fingers. Brush each round

liberally with more oil. Sprinkle or brush the Za’atar Mix over the top and all the way to the

edge.

7. Bake the rounds until cooked through and lightly golden, about 15 minutes. Serve right

away or store for later.

YIELD: 8 servings

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

When using

dried herbs,

it’s best to dry

your own or

purchase dried

herbs on the

branch, which

are commonly

exported from

southern Italy

and Greece.

Dried herbs

from a jar will

likely have

faded in flavor

and aroma.

(See page 18 for

directions.)


LEBANON

SEVEN SPICES

Lebanese Seven Spices (also called Lebanese mixed spices) varies from family to

family and from one region to another. The classic sweet-pungent blend is made of

ground black and white pepper, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and coriander.

Another mixture known as Arabic seven spices is made from earthier spices such as

cumin, paprika, and a bit of cardamom. In Syria, the mixture may include ground

dried galangal, a fragrant and more pungent cousin to gingerroot used extensively

in Southeast Asian cooking. Ground fenugreek, an aromatic spice common in curry

mixtures, appears in some versions.

2 tablespoons (12 g) finely ground

black pepper

2 tablespoons (12 g) finely ground

white pepper



cinnamon, preferably true

cinnamon


coriander

4 teaspoons (10 g) grated nutmeg

1 tablespoon (8 g) ground cloves

Mix all the spices and store in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dark place for up to

3 months.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to flavor

Middle

Eastern

meat such

as kebabs,

meatballs,

or kibbe

(bulgur

wheat balls

stuffed with

meat).

LEBANESE LAMB MEATBALLS

WITH PINE NUTS AND POMEGRANATE

This tasty meatball stew, scented with Lebanese seven spice mix, consists of seasoned

lamb meatballs browned and then simmered in a tangy tomato and pomegranate

molasses sauce with shallots and studded with fried pine nuts. Though expensive and not

easy to find, long, narrow, resinous Mediterranean pine nuts, rather than the small, pearlshaped

blander Chinese pine nuts, are authentic and delicious. The meatballs in the sauce

also freeze quite well. Serve with rice pilaf, bulgur wheat, or even kasha and accompany

with wilted spinach. The seltzer makes the meatballs lighter, because of the bubbles.

1 medium onion, grated

2 pounds (908 g) ground lamb

2 tablespoons (6 g) Seven Spices,

divided

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon (18 g) sea salt, divided

1/2 cup (120 ml) seltzer water or

sparkling or plain water

1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil, divided

1 pound (454 g) peeled shallots,

quartered, including trimmed

root end

2 tablespoons (15 g) all-purpose flour

2 cups (360 g) chopped plum tomatoes,

fresh or canned

2 tablespoons (40 g) pomegranate

molasses

1/2 cup (68 g) pine nuts

124


1. Place the onion, ground lamb, 1 tablespoon (3 g) of the Seven Spices, black pepper, 11/2

teaspoons (9 g) of the sea salt, and the seltzer in the bowl of a mixer. Beat to combine well

(or mix by hand). Cook a small amount to check the seasonings. Using a small disher (also

known as an ice-cream scoop), shape into walnut-size balls and chill until ready to cook

(up to 1 day, if covered and refrigerated).

2. Heat 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the olive oil in a large skillet and brown the meatballs well on all

sides, working in batches. Remove the meatballs from the pan and reserve. Reserve the

skillet and pour off and discard excess fat.

3. In the reserved skillet, heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) more olive oil and then brown the

shallots well. Remove from the pan and reserve.

4. Add the flour to the pan; stir to mix with the fat, and brown lightly. Add the remaining

1 tablespoon (3 g) Seven Spices and remaining 11/2 teaspoons (9 g) salt, the tomatoes,

and the pomegranate molasses. Bring the sauce to a boil; add the browned meatballs

and shallots. Simmer together for 15 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to keep the

meatballs from sticking.

5. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil and fry

the pine nuts, stirring often, until golden brown, taking care not to burn them. Stir half the

pine nuts into the sauce. Serve the meatballs sprinkled with the remaining pine nuts.



YEMEN

HAWAIJ

Hawaij is essential to the cuisine of Yemen and has spread widely into Israeli cuisine

because of the large Yemenite Jewish community that emigrated there en masse in

1949 and 1950. This currylike mixture is redolent of cardamom and golden in color

from turmeric. Other versions may include caraway, nutmeg, saffron, and ground

dried onions. Another type, hawaij for coffee, is made from sweet aromatic spices,

including aniseed, fennel seeds, ginger, and cardamom, and is used to flavor coffee as

well as cakes and other desserts.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Mix with

Greek yogurt

and lime and

use as a dip

for veggies

or spread on

pita bread

and top

with sliced

avocado,

roasted

peppers,

sliced

cucumber,

and romaine

or arugula.

Add to

chicken,

potato, or

egg salad.

Add to

chicken soup

for color and

flavor.


peppercorns



RED LENTIL SOUP WITH YEMENITE HAWAIJ

Quick-cooking easy-to-digest split red lentils are enhanced by the warm, spicy tones of

the Hawaij spice blend and an array of aromatic vegetables. This hearty lentil soup is

suitable for vegans but will also be pleasing to omnivores because of its full-bodied flavor.

It freezes perfectly. Like Turkish red lentil soup and Caribbean black bean soup, this soup

is finished with a squeeze of citrus, here limes, which brightens the flavor.


1 large onion, diced

4 carrots, diced

2 ribs celery, diced

2 leeks, diced and washed thoroughly

to remove any sand


1/4 cup (31 g) Hawaij

2 tablespoons (20 g) decorticated

cardamom



In a dry skillet, combine the peppercorns, cumin, coriander, cardamom, and cloves

and toast over medium heat, shaking the pan often, until fragrant and lightly

browned, about 3 minutes. Cool and then grind in a spice grinder or mortar and

pestle. Stir in the turmeric. Transfer to a storage container and store in a cool, dry





canned or fresh

1 pound (454 g) split red lentils

31/2 quarts (3.3 L) vegetable stock,

chicken stock, or water

1 bay leaf

3 limes, cut into quarters

1. In a large soup pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion,

carrots, celery, and leeks and sauté until the onion is lightly browned, about 8 minutes.

Lower the heat to medium, add the chopped garlic, and sauté for 1 minute, or until

fragrant.

2. Add the Hawaij and sauté for 2 minutes to bring out its flavor. Add the salt, tomatoes,

lentils, vegetable stock, and bay leaf, and stir to combine. Increase the heat to high and

bring just to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook at a low simmer until the

lentils are tender, 35 to 40 minutes, skimming off any white foam. Taste for seasoning and

serve immediately accompanied by wedges of lime to squeeze over the top.


126



YEMEN

ZHOUG

This fiery green oily seasoning sauce from Yemen resembles pesto in appearance

but not flavor. Yemenites believe that eating Zhoug daily keeps away illness and

strengthens the heart. Some versions call for the Zhoug to be hand chopped so it is

chunkier. Tomato, lemon juice, and aromatic spices such as coriander seeds, cloves,

and cardamom may be added. Falafel stands throughout the Middle East, especially

in Israel with its large Yemenite population, often serve Zhoug as a condiment. A little

goes a long way.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Serve with

Yemenite

lentil soup.

1/2 pound (227 g) green chiles,

such as jalapeño or serrano

1/2 bunch flat parsley,

washed and dried

1/2 bunch cilantro, washed and dried

2 large cloves garlic,

cut into smaller chunks

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom



olive oil, plus more to cover the top

1. Trim and seed the chiles and chop coarsely (use gloves to prevent your hands from

burning when handling raw chiles). Trim away the coarse stems from the parsley and

cilantro and chop the remainder, including the tender stems.

2. Combine the chiles, parsley, cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin, coriander, cardamom, and

black pepper in the bowl of a food processor. Process to a rough chunky paste while

pouring in the olive oil. Pack the Zhoug into a glass jar, cover the top with olive oil,

and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.


Use to

season

Middle

Eastern–

style diced

tomato,

cucumber,

and pepper

salad.

Serve with

eggs instead

of hot sauce.

Serve with

falafel.

128


HUMMUS WITH WARM BUTTERY CHICKPEAS AND ZHOUG

This hummus has a satisfying nutty flavor and texture because we start with dried

chickpeas. Hummus made from canned chickpeas will inevitably be mushy and on the

bland side. Yes, it’s more work to start with dried chickpeas, but the cost will be much less

and the results much more satisfying. A small amount of baking soda neutralizes the acid

in the cooking water, so the chickpeas soften as they cook. A topping of brown-butter-laden

whole chickpeas adds rich texture, while the hot green zhoug provides lively herbal heat.

11/2 pounds (680 g) chickpeas, soaked in

cold water to cover overnight

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

2 bay leaves

1 whole dried red chile (optional)

4 teaspoons (24 g) sea salt, divided

1/2 cup (120 ml) freshly squeezed

lemon juice


2 cups (480 g) sesame tahini


1/2 cup (112 g) unsalted butter, melted

Zhoug (page 128)

Pita bread, for serving

1. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas. Place in a medium pot, cover with cold water,

stir in the baking soda, and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off and discarding the

large amounts of white foam that rise to the top. Add the bay leaves and whole dried red

chile.

2. Cover and continue to cook the chickpeas over low heat, skimming occasionally, for

about 11/2 hours, or until the chickpeas are almost tender. Add 2 teaspoons (12 g) of the

salt and continue to cook until the chickpeas are quite tender but not mushy. Cool and

drain the chickpeas, reserving the cooking liquid. Remove and discard the bay leaves and

chile pepper.

3. In the bowl of a food processor, purée two-thirds of the chickpeas along with the lemon

juice and garlic. Reserve the remaining chickpeas. Add a little of the chickpea cooking

liquid, only as much as necessary, to blend. Add the tahini, the remaining 2 teaspoons

(12 g) salt, and the cumin and process again until the mixture is smooth, creamy, and thick

enough to hold its shape.

4. To serve, mound the hummus in the center of a large, flat serving dish. Using the back

of a spoon, smooth the hummus outward to create a slight hollow in the center.

5. In a medium skillet, heat the butter and cook it over medium heat until the butter

browns lightly and smell nutty. Spoon the reserved whole chickpeas along with the brown

butter onto the hummus. Garnish with small (very small, as it is quite hot!) dabs of Zhoug.

Heat the pita bread and cut into wedges. Serve with the hummus for dipping along with

more Zhoug for those who like it hot.

YIELD: 12 or more servings


8

NORTH

AMERICAN

BLENDS

There are few common spices that are native to North America.

However, the list of spice blends is much longer because

immigrants from around the globe added their seasonings to the

American “melting pot.” Regional favorites include Chesapeake

Bay Seasoning, based on the world-famous proprietary blend,

Old Bay Seasoning. Hot and spicy Cajun Seasoning mix is most

often used to coat and pan-sear fish. Chili Powder from the

Southwest combines chiles with imported spices such as cumin,

oregano, and allspice. Pastrami Seasoning came into American

and Canadian culture through Romanian---Jewish immigrants.

We say, “American as apple pie,” so it’s easy to see why a spice

blend was perfected early on for this iconic dish. Similarly, the

seasoning mix for pumpkin pie, a Thanksgiving favorite, soon

started to be packaged by large spice companies.

131

EAST COAST, UNITED STATES

APPLE PIE SPICE

This mixture of sweet spices made in many versions is used to season American apple

pie. It’s your choice whether to use true cinnamon from Sri Lanka, which is milder and

more aromatic, or cassia cinnamon from Indonesia, which is most common in the

U.S. and is hotter and more pungent.

1/2 cup (40 g) ground cinnamon

1/4 cup (24 g) ground allspice


2 tablespoons (16 g) ground mace

2 teaspoons (6 g) ground cloves

Combine all the ingredients and store in a tightly sealed container in a dark, cool



OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Add to

apple, pear,

or quince

desserts,

such as

crisps,

dumplings,

tarts, and

cobblers.

Add to

butternut

squash or

pumpkin

soup.

Sprinkle on

acorn squash

or sweet

potatoe

wedges

before

roasting.

SPICED APPLE TART WITH SHARP CHEDDAR PASTRY

Come fall and we start thinking apple desserts. Here the classic combination of apple

and sharp Cheddar come together in a flaky tart. The Cheddar goes into the pastry and

makes it easy to roll out because it is flexible. The filling is best made with tart apples that

keep their shape, perhaps a combination of Fuji and Granny Smith or Honeycrisp. Apricot

preserves, with its high pectin content, binds the filling and helps thicken it, adding color,

body, and another layer of flavor. Sweetly aromatic Apple Pie Spice accents the pastry and

filling. Serve with a dollop of crème fraîche dusted with Apple Pie Spice.

FOR PASTRY

10 ounces (about 21/4 cups, or 280 g)

unbleached pastry flour or 1/2 pound

(scant 2 cups, or 230 g) unbleached

all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons (4 g) Apple Pie Spice

6 ounces (11/2 sticks, or 168 g) unsalted

butter, softened

6 ounces (168 g) extra-sharp Cheddar

cheese, grated (about 2 cups,

or 240 g, packed)

1/4 cup (60 ml) buttermilk

FOR APPLE FILLING

1 cup (225 g) brown butter

(see note on page 134)

5 pounds (2.3 kg) tart, firm apples,

peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped


1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 g)

sugar, divided

2 teaspoons (4 g) Apple Pie Spice

1/2 cup (160 g) apricot preserves

1 tablespoon (15 ml) vanilla extract

1/4 cup (60 ml) dark rum

1 pound (454 g) tart, firm apples,

peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

132


Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5).

TO MAKE THE PASTRY:

1. Whisk together the flour, salt, and Apple Pie Spice in a medium bowl.

2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter

and cheese until well blended and creamy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the flour mixture and

buttermilk and beat just until the mixture forms a rough ball. Transfer to a plastic bag

and shape into a flattened rectangle. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour or in the freezer for

30 minutes until firm but still malleable.

3. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a round about 1/4-inch (6 mm)

thick, large enough to drape over the sides of a shallow French tart pan with a removable

bottom about 11 inches (28 cm) in diameter. Lay the pastry into the tart pan and press

down lightly all around so the dough adheres to the pan, then trim the edges.

4. Fit a piece of heavy-duty foil onto the dough and up over the edges and fill with beans

or other pie weights. Bake the crust on the bottom shelf of the oven until the dough is

cooked through but not yet browned, about 30 minutes. Remove the foil and the weights,

reduce the oven temperature to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3), and bake for 10 minutes

longer, or until the dough is evenly and lightly browned. Remove from the oven and cool

to room temperature on a wire rack before filling.

NORTH AMERICAN BLENDS 133

MEANWHILE PREPARE THE APPLE FILLING:

1. In a large heavy skillet over medium heat, heat the browned butter. Add the chopped

apples and salt. Cook until the apples have started to soften, about 10 minutes, stirring

often. Add 1 cup (200 g) of the sugar, the Apple Pie Spice, 1/2 cup (160 g) of the preserves,

and the vanilla. Continue to sauté until the mixture is thick and golden, about 10 minutes,

stirring often.

2. Remove the pan from the heat, add the rum, avert your head, and ignite. Place the pan

back over the heat and shake it several times until the flames die out. Continue to cook

the apples for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed and the apples are

tender, stirring often. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

3. Raise the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5).

4. Spoon the apple filling into the prepared tart shell. Arrange the sliced apples in

concentric rings on top and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar.

5. Place the tart on a baking pan to catch any drips, then bake on the bottom shelf of the

oven (so the pastry cooks through) until the filling is bubbling, the pastry is golden brown,

and the sliced apples have caramelized, about 50 minutes.

6. Remove the tart from the oven and allow it to cool for about 30 minutes before serving.

YIELD: One 11-inch (28 cm) tart, 12 or more servings

Brown Butter (Beurre Noisette)

This favorite in the French kitchen is known as beurre noisette, or hazelnut butter,

because of its toasted nut aroma. Start with 1 pound (454 g) unsalted butter. Melt the

butter in a small heavy pot over medium heat. Cook until all the water cooks away, the

foam on top is just beginning to color, and the milk solids on the bottom of the pan are

brown and nutty-smelling. Note that when butter starts to brown, it browns quickly, so

watch carefully. Remove from the heat and pour off and reserve the browned butterfat,

leaving behind the small browned bits. Store refrigerated or frozen for up to 3 months.

YIELD: Makes about 13/4 cups (414 ml)

134


NEW ENGLAND

POULTRY SEASONING

This aromatic blend of resinous herbs emphasizes sage, thyme, and sweet

marjoram—an often neglected herb—along with fruity black pepper and earthy

white pepper plus a touch of potent, spicy-sweet cloves. Use it to season lighter meat

poultry, such as chicken, capon, turkey, guinea hen, Cornish hen, and quail.

6 tablespoons (24 g) rubbed sage


1/4 cup (7 g) dried marjoram

2 tablespoons (8 g) dried crumbled

rosemary


pepper

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground white

pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

Combine all the ingredients, mixing well. Grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder,

clean coffee mill, or blender. Transfer to a tightly sealed container and store in a dark,

cool place for up to 3 months.


TURKEY BREAKFAST SAUSAGE PATTIES

These fresh sausages are best made from fattier dark meat ground turkey, with its full, rich

flavor rather, than white meat, which tends to be dry. The sausage mix can either be handformed

into patties or, if time allows, rolled up, frozen, and then sliced. The finer the grind,

the better the sausages will hold their shape. Coarser ground meat tends to crumble when

cooked.

1 medium onion, minced


2 tablespoons (10 g) Poultry Seasoning

1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes


2 pounds (908 g) finely ground dark

meat turkey

Vegetable or olive oil, for the pan

1. Combine the onion, garlic, poultry seasoning, hot red pepper flakes, and salt in a large

bowl. Add the turkey and knead to combine well. Fry up a small sample to check the

seasonings. (You don’t want to sample raw turkey.)

2. Shape the mixture into 8 patties by scooping first with a large spoon or a disher (also

known as a an ice cream scoop) and then pressing down with your hands to form an

evenly flattened disk about 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) thick. Firmly press an indentation into the

center of the patty—this will prevent the patty from bulging when cooked. (This method

also works for hamburgers.)

3. Alternatively, shape the mixture into a 2-inch (5 cm)-diameter roll. Roll it up tightly in

plastic wrap, twisting the ends to enclose. Freeze until firm, then unwrap and slice into

1/2-inch (1.3 cm) thick rounds. Or freeze until ready to use, up to 1 month. Reserve the

sliced patties covered and refrigerated until ready to cook, up to 2 days.

4. When ready to cook, heat a griddle or large skillet, preferably cast iron or nonstick, and

coat lightly with oil. Add the sausage patties and brown well on both sides over moderate

heat, about 3 minutes per side, until the patties are firm but still juicy. Serve immediately.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season

bread

stuffing for

turkey.

Rub on nuts

such as

walnuts or

pecans with

a little oil

and roast.

Use to

season

chicken

or turkey

burgers or

sausage mix.

YIELD: 8 servings


MONTREAL

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub on

steaks,

especially

fatty rib

steak, or

skirt steak

then grill.

Rub on

russet potato

wedges with

a little oil

and roast.

Brush

steamed

corn with

butter, then

sprinkle

evenly with

Montreal

steak

seasoning.

MONTREAL STEAK SEASONING

Montreal steak seasoning combines the British love of thick-cut beef steak with the

sophisticated French flair for seasoning and perhaps a bit of Eastern European Jewish

tradition with the addition of dill. Granulated garlic and onion provide the slightly

gritty texture that is characteristic of this mix, but powder may be substituted. You’ll

find this seasoning mixture in restaurants all over the Canadian culinary capital of

Montreal and anywhere that ex-pat Montrealers live.

1/4 cup (24 g) paprika

1/4 cup (24 g) coarsely ground black

pepper (sometimes called

café grind)


1/4 cup (24 g) coarsely crushed

coriander seeds

SPICED SWEET CORN PUDDING

Make this luscious corn pudding in summer when corn is at its best or use frozen corn,

preferably tender white kernels. Large yellow corn will be too starchy for this dish.

Substitute Chili Powder (page 142) for the Montreal Steak Seasoning if desired. Use any

combination of colorful sweet and hot peppers for the batter, especially rainbow-colored

farmers’ market peppers in season in late summer. The sweeter and younger the corn, the

more delicate and creamy the pudding.

3 tablespoon (42 g) unsalted butter,

divided

1 large sweet onion (about 1/2 pound,

or 227 g), diced

2 colorful sweet and hot peppers, diced

1 pound (454 g) shucked corn kernels

and their “milk” (about 6 ears corn)

3 large eggs

1/4 cup (12 g) dried dill weed

2 tablespoons (20 g) granulated garlic

2 tablespoons (20 g) granulated

onion

2 tablespoons (8 g) crushed hot red

pepper flakes

Combine all the ingredients, mixing well. Transfer to a tightly sealed container and



1/2 cup (120 ml) heavy cream

3/4 cup (180 g) Greek yogurt

1/4 cup (56 g) unsalted butter, melted

4 ounces (3/4 cup, or 112 g)

stone-ground cornmeal

2 teaspoons (9 g) baking powder

11/2 teaspoons sea salt

1 tablespoon (9 g) Montreal Steak

Seasoning

136


1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Coat a large, shallow 2-quart (2 L)

baking dish with 1 tablespoon (14 g) of the butter.

2. In a medium skillet, sauté the onion and peppers in the remaining 2 tablespoons (28 g)

butter until softened. Reserve.

3. Place the corn kernels in a blender or food processor. Add the eggs, cream, yogurt, and

melted butter and blend. Remove the batter from blender and transfer to a large mixing

bowl. In another bowl, stir together the cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and Montreal

Steak Seasoning. Sprinkle into the corn mixture and stir to combine. Fold in the reserved

sautéed onion and peppers.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the

pudding has set in the middle and started to come away from the sides of the pan. (Allow

15 to 20 minutes more baking time if using frozen corn.) Serve immediately. Store any

leftovers, refrigerated, for up to 5 days. Reheat in the microwave until just steaming hot.

NOTE: If the corn is especially starchy, add 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar and an extra 1/4 cup

(60 ml) cream to the batter to compensate.



OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub on beef

brisket or

flanken

(cross-cut

short ribs)

and leave

overnight

to season

before hotsmoking

or slowcooking.

Rinse and

pat dry a

corned beef

brisket. Rub

generously

with Pastrami

Seasoning

and then

slow-cook

in a moist

environment

or smoker

to make

your own

pastrami.

Make grated

potato and

celery root

latkes (fried

pancakes)

and top with

crisp-fried

shreds of

pastrami.

MID-ATLANTIC UNITED STATES AND CANADA

PASTRAMI SEASONING

Pastrami is a Romanian specialty adapted from Turkish basturma—paprika coated,

spiced, pressed, and dried beef—brought to the United States by Jewish immigrants

in the late nineteenth century who had picked up Turkish foodways while living

throughout the Ottoman empire in places such as Salonika (Greece) and Izmir

(Turkey). Dark, rich, slightly bittersweet molasses binds and thickens the mixture so

that it coats the meat. Don’t use blackstrap molasses, which will be overly bitter.


peppercorns

2 tablespoons (20 g) white

peppercorns




PASTRAMI-CURED SALMON WITH HERB SALAD

Although pastrami beef is classic, rich and fatty salmon is enhanced by the same

seasonings when left to cure. A variation on the Scandinavian technique of curing gravlax

with salt, sugar, and dill, here the pastrami seasoning—with its salt, molasses, sugar, and

spices—cures salmon, which is served in thin slices like cold-smoked salmon. It’s easy

to make at home, unlike cold-smoked salmon, which is quite finicky. One side of salmon

will serve twelve to fifteen guests as an appetizer topped with the aromatic herb salad. It

makes an impressive presentation on a buffet. Sockeye salmon, with its brilliant red color

and firm flesh, contrasts beautifully with the dark cure and the bright green herb salad.

FOR CURED SALMON

1 side (21/2- to 3 pounds, or 1 to 1.4 kg)

wild sockeye or king salmon,

with skin on

1 cup (250 g) Pastrami Seasoning


1 cup (320 g) molasses

1 cup (288 g) kosher salt

1/2 cup (48 g) finely chopped

fresh gingerroot

1/2 cup (80 g) finely minced garlic

1/2 cup (100 g) sugar

1. Combine the black peppercorns, white peppercorns, coriander seeds, and fennel

seeds and grind to a slightly chunky powder in a spice grinder, mortar and pestle, or

blender.

2. Combine the spices with the remaining ingredients, mixing well. Transfer to

an airtight container and store, refrigerated, for up to 2 months, or freeze for up to

6 months.

YIELD: About 4 cups (1 kg)

FOR HERB SALAD


1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice

1 lemon, zested

1 large shallot, minced

Salt and pepper

1 bunch Italian parsley, leaves and

small stems picked

1 small bunch basil, leaves picked;

handful tarragon, leaves and small

stems picked; handful spearmint,

leaves and small stems picked; large

handful baby arugula leaves

138


TO MAKE THE SALMON:

1. Remove the line of pin bones running from the head end to halfway toward the tail

using needle-nose pliers (or have your fishmonger do this). Cut 3 or 4 diagonal slits

through the skin. Spread the pastrami seasoning on both sides of the salmon, rubbing

well so the spices penetrate.

2. Wrap in plastic wrap and place on a flat, rimmed pan, such as a jelly roll pan. Refrigerate

the salmon for 3 days, turning over daily, or until the salmon is fully cured and firm to the

touch. Drain off the liquid that accumulates, then pat dry.

TO MAKE THE SALAD:

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, zest, shallot, and salt and pepper

to taste; reserve. Place the prepared herb leaves in a large salad bowl.

2. Using a sharp slicing knife, thinly slice the salmon against the grain. Arrange the

salmon slices in a single layer on medium or large salad plates, preferably chilled.

3. Toss the herb leaves with the dressing, using just enough to lightly coat. Arrange a

small bouquet of herb salad in the center over the sliced salmon. Serve immediately.

Rewrap any remaining salmon and store refrigerated for up to 1 week.



TEXAS

BARBECUE SEASONING RUB

A rub is a mixture of finely ground spices and herbs that is vigorously rubbed into

meats and poultry before slow-cooking. Rubs are most often used in barbecuing and

grilling because of their ability to stick to meats during cooking. Work a generous

amount of the rub into the meat up to 24 hours before cooking. Sprinkle with a

second coat just before grilling or smoking.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Rub into beef

flank steak,

skirt steak,

or tri-tip

before pansearing

or

grilling.

Rub into

pork ribs

before slowcooking.

Rub over

chicken

or turkey

before

roasting.

Sprinkle on

buttered or

olive oiled–

grilled corn

on the cob.

1/2 cup (64 g) mild red pure

chile powder, such as New

Mexico, California, or ancho (not

chili powder, which is premixed

with cumin and oregano)

1/2 cup (112 g) packed dark brown

sugar


1/4 cup (24 g) paprika

TEXAS BARBECUE BONELESS BEEF SHORT RIBS

In Texas, barbecue is all about the beef, with brisket the king of them all. These days,

boneless beef short ribs, with their rich, fatty flavor, are taking over. Beef ribs are cut from

various sections of the twelve ribs (plus one floating rib) that start at the chuck (shoulder)

and continue to the loin. Relatively square in shape, short ribs have a full-bodied flavor

and luscious melting tenderness that develops when they are rubbed with spices and

slow-cooked or smoked. Although retail markets don’t generally distinguish between the

types, beef plate ribs from the belly (same cut as bacon) will be less expensive than fattier

chuck ribs, which are known as beef chuck flap when boneless. Beef back ribs, sometimes

called dinosaur ribs, will be the leanest and most expensive. Once cooked, the trimmed

beef freezes well combined with the sauce.

4 pounds (1.8 kg) beef chuck flap

(boneless short ribs), trimmed, or

8 pounds (3.6 kg) bone-in beef

short ribs

1 cup (240 g) Barbecue Seasoning Rub

3 cups (720 g) ketchup


1/2 cup (120 ml) cider vinegar

1/4 cup (44 g) whole-grain mustard

1/4 cup (24 g) smoked Spanish paprika

(dulce is sweet and preferred here)



2 tablespoons (18 g) dry mustard

powder

2 tablespoons (4 g) dried oregano

2 tablespoons (12 g) ground black

pepper




2 tablespoons (30 ml) Worcestershire

sauce

2 tablespoons (36 g) kosher salt



8 large burger buns (optional)

Thinly sliced dill pickles (optional)

Thinly sliced sharp cheddar cheese

(optional)

140


1. One day ahead of time, rub the beef all over with barbecue seasoning. Cover and

refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove from the refrigerator.

2. Combine the ketchup, brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt,

pepper, and garlic in a large braiser or a slow cooker. Bring the liquid to a boil, add the

beef, bring back to the boil, and then reduce the heat to very low. Slow-cook until the beef

is fork-tender, about 3 hours.

3. Remove the meat from the pot and drain, reserving the sauce. Cool the beef to room

temperature and then remove and discard the layer of fat from the outside. Discard the

bones if using bone-in beef. Wrap and chill the beef. Separately, chill the sauce overnight

in the refrigerator so the fat hardens.

4. The next day, cut the meat into small cubes. Remove and discard the hardened fat

from the sauce. Bring the skimmed sauce to a boil in a wide braiser and add the beef. Heat

over medium heat until the meat is thoroughly heated, about 20 minutes. Serve, spooning

extra sauce over top.

5. If desired, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spoon the beef onto the bottoms of

burger buns, top with a layer of pickle, and cover with sliced cheddar. Top with the bun

lids, wrap the burgers in foil, and bake 10 minutes or until the cheese has melted. Serve

immediately.

YIELD: 8 to 10 servings, about 2 pounds (908 g) cooked beef plus sauce


TEXAS

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

In hot weather

onion powder

and garlic

powder tend

to form hard

clumps. Grind

in a spice

grinder to a fine

powder before

combining with

the remaining

ingredients.

CHILI POWDER

Preblended chili powder was first invented to season Texas chili con carne (chileseasoned

meat). In 1890, DeWitt Clinton Pendery of Fort Worth, Texas, began

supplying his blend of chiles and other spices to cafes and hotels under the name

Mexican Chili Supply Company. Around the same time, William Gebhardt of New

Braunfels, Texas, started making what he called Tampico Dust, which he later

changed to Eagle Brand Chili Powder. The confusion over spelling is understandable.

Generally when referring to the powder, the spelling is chili; when referring to the

pepper itself, the spelling is chile, but other countries use a different rule and just

about every variation can be found, including chilli (Australia).


1/2 cup (48 g) ancho chile powder

1/2 cup (48 g) red New Mexico

chile powder

1/4 cup (8 g) Mexican oregano

(see Spicemaster’s Note, page 54)

or Mediterranean oregano

1/4 cup (28 g) onion powder

3 tablespoons (24 g) garlic powder

2 tablespoons (12 g) chipotle

chile powder



Heat a small dry skillet over medium heat and add the cumin seeds. Toast until lightly

browned and fragrant but not at all dark. Cool to room temperature and then grind

to a fine powder in a spice grinder, coffee mill, or blender. Combine the ground cumin

with the remaining ingredients, mixing well. Transfer to a tightly sealed container and

store in a dark, cool place for up to 3 months.


142


COWBOY BEANS

These spicy-smoky beans are the perfect accompaniment to grilled fajita (skirt steak)

or to serve on their own. Like most bean dishes, they taste even better when reheated.

Serve with steamed tortillas (corn or wheat) to mop up the juices. Add the salt halfway

through the cooking; if you add the salt too soon, the beans will never soften, but if you

add salt after cooking, the salt won’t penetrate evenly to the inside of the beans. Spoon

extra beans onto tortilla chips, sprinkle with grated cheese, and toast for quick and tasty

nachos.

1 pound (454 g) pinto beans

1 whole medium onion

2 whole large cloves garlic


1/4 pound (112 g) smoked bacon, diced

1/2 pound (227 g) fresh chorizo sausage,

removed from casings and crumbled

1 onion, finely chopped


6 tablespoons (36 g) Chili Powder

(page 142)

11/2 pounds (680 g) ripe red tomatoes,

cored and diced (about 2 large)

1/2 small bunch cilantro, washed and

chopped

1. Soak the beans in water to cover overnight with the whole onion and whole garlic

cloves. Drain and rinse the beans.

2. Place the beans in a heavy pot, such as a Dutch oven. Add enough cold water to cover

the beans. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer. When the

beans are half-cooked, add the salt and stir to combine well. Continue cooking until the

beans are firm and almost cooked through. Fish out and discard the onion and garlic.

3. Meanwhile, in a large heavy skillet, such as cast iron, cook the bacon over low heat

until most of the fat has rendered out. Add the crumbled sausage and cook until lightly

browned, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped onion and minced garlic and cook until

softened, about 5 minutes. Add the Chili Powder and stir to combine, then stir in the

tomatoes. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes to

combine the flavors.

4. Scrape the mixture into the cooked beans and simmer together until the beans are

tender and the flavors have combined, about 20 minutes, stirring often. The beans should

be juicy, more like a stew than a soup. Just before serving, add the chopped cilantro and

taste for salt.


OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use 1 to 2

tablespoons

(6 to 12 g)

Chili Powder

to season

1 quart

(900 g)

of chili.

Add to the

mix when

making

veggie

burgers,

especially

those made

from beans

and grains.

Toss with

crunchy fried

chickpeas.


LOUISIANA

LOUISIANA CRAWFISH BOIL SPICES

This mixture of aromatic spices has a fiery aftertaste and is popular along the

southeast coast of the United States, especially Louisiana, for boiling crawfish,

shrimp, and crabs. Use the same procedure to prepare shrimp, preferably wildcaught.


1/4 cup (72 g) fine sea salt

1/4 cup (44 g) yellow mustard seeds


1/4 cup (16 g) crushed hot red

pepper flakes

1 bunch chives, thinly sliced

1 piece (2 inches, or 5 cm) fresh

gingerroot, peeled and finely

minced

2 tablespoons (13 g) celery seed

2 tablespoons (4 g) oregano

16 bay leaves, crumbled

Combine all the spices, storing the excess in the refrigerator because of the fresh

chives and ginger. Tie the spices in a muslin bag and add to the liquid for boiling

seafood.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES


Add in

generous

amounts to

a large pot

of boiling

water and

simmer for

30 minutes

to infuse the

spices. Add

crawfish,

shrimp, or

crabs and

cook.

Grind finely

and use

to season

deviled eggs,

potato salad,

fish, seafood,

or poultry.

144


LOUISIANA SPICY

BOILED CRAWFISH

Crawfish are small freshwater crustaceans

that look like miniature lobsters, with

hundreds of species worldwide. Two

important types common in Louisiana

are red swamp crawfish from southern

Louisiana and the white-river crawfish

from northern Louisiana. Both are

favorites in Creole and Cajun cooking,

most often boiled in a big pot of water

seasoned generously with crawfish boil

spices. Serve outside on large tables

covered with newspapers to crack and eat

their succulent, though admittedly small,

tails. Be sure to suck out the tasty juices

from the head, which Cajun people know

is the best part!

1 gallon (3.7 L) cold water

2 cups (240 g) Louisiana Crawfish

Boil Spices (page 144), divided

4 lemons, cut in half

4 pounds (1,816 g) fresh crawfish,

shrimp, or crabs, washed in

cold water

1. In a large pot, combine the cold water,

1 cup (120 g) Crawfish Boil Spices, and

lemons. Bring to a boil over high heat,

then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook

for 30 minutes over low heat to blend

the flavors.

2. Add the crawfish, stir well, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn off the heat, allowing

the crawfish to poach in the hot liquid without toughening. When the crawfish are bright

red and their tails are starting to curl, remove from the heat.

3. Have ready a large, clean cooler, shipping container, or other large insulated container

with a lid. Place a layer of crawfish on the bottom and sprinkle generously with additional

Crawfish Boil Spices. Continue layering until all the crawfish are in the container and

covered with spices. Cover tightly and allow the crawfish to steam about 15 minutes or

until they absorb the spice flavor.

4. Serve immediately. Provide plenty of paper towels to wipe hands.

YIELD: 8 servings


LOUISIANA

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

Spice blends

that contain

paprika or

ground chile

powders are

especially

sensitive to light

and will quickly

fade in color if

not kept in a

dark place.

CAJUN SEASONING

This hot, peppery spice blend from the Cajun region of Louisiana is a favorite for

making the “Cajun style” blackened fish or chicken usually prepared in a cast-iron

skillet. It was originally developed as a way to flavor once abundant and inexpensive

Gulf red drum fish, but now stocks of that fish are dangerously depleted, so we have

substituted sustainable mahi-mahi. New Orleans chef Paul Prudhomme is often

credited with bringing Cajun cuisine, especially blackened redfish, to the rest of the

country and indeed the world during the 1980s.



1/4 cup (24 g) ground black pepper

1/4 cup (24 g) ground white pepper


1/4 cup (28 g) onion powder


2 tablespoons (16 g) ground cayenne

Combine all the ingredients and store in a tightly sealed container in a dark, cool



OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Mix with the

filling for

deviled eggs.

Add to tuna

salad.

Sprinkle on

buttered

popcorn.

Add a

pinch to

hollandaise

sauce for

poached

eggs.

Use to

season

gumbo and

jambalaya.

BLACKENED MAHI-MAHI

Mahi-mahi were commonly known as dolphin fish because they swim alongside boats, as

do dolphins. To make the fish more acceptable to consumers, who were afraid they were

eating dolphin, the fish is now known by its Hawaiian name, mahi-mahi (strong-strong),

because of its great strength as a swimmer. Mahi-mahi is found mostly in Hawaii, Brazil,

Costa Rica, Ecuador, Peru, the southern Atlantic, the Caribbean, and the Gulf of Mexico.

Supplies are abundant because of mahi-mahi’s fast growth rate. Choose smaller fish (3 to

6 pounds, or 1.3 to 2.7 kg, average) for milder flavor and finer texture; larger mahi-mahi

(which may reach 70 pounds, or 31.8 kg) will be stronger in flavor with coarser texture.

The creamy pink flesh is darker in larger fish and toward the tail. Its firm texture and large,

moist flakes takes well to pan-searing, as in this recipe.

2 tablespoons (14 g) Cajun Seasoning

2 teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoons freshly ground black

pepper

1 cup (235 ml) clarified butter,

homemade or purchased

2 pounds (908 g) skinless mahi-mahi

fillet, pin bones removed,

cut into 4 to 6 serving portions

Lemon wedges

1. Combine the Cajun Seasoning and salt and pepper to taste in a small shallow casserole

dish. Dip the fish fillets into the clarified butter to coat on both sides. Dip into the

seasoning mixture on both sides, shaking off the excess.

2. Preheat a large cast-iron skillet until smoking hot. Add just enough clarified butter to

coat the pan in a thin layer. Add the fish, starting with the outer side down, and pan-sear

until well browned on both sides and the fish flakes, about 3 minutes on each side, adding

more clarified butter to the pan as needed. Drain the fish and serve immediately with the

lemon wedges.


146


MARYLAND

CHESAPEAKE BAY SEASONING

This recipe, based on the world-famous Old Bay Seasoning, is a mixture of herbs and

spices used to steam Chesapeake Bay’s hard-shell blue crabs. The original Old Bay

blend was created by Gustav Brunn, a German-Jewish spice merchant who fled the

Nazis and immigrated to Baltimore in 1938, bringing with him his precious handcranked

spice grinder and his recipes. At first he made spice blends for German-style

pickles and cured meats. In 1940, Brunn came up with his own blend for seasoning

crabs, which he called Old Bay Seasoning. His Baltimore Spice Company remained

in the family until 1985, when it was eventually sold to McCormick & Company, the

preeminent spice company in Baltimore, longtime center of America’s spice trade.

1/4 cup (50 g) celery salt

1/4 cup (20 g) ground bay leaves

2 tablespoons (18 g) dry mustard

powder


3 tablespoons (18 g) sweet paprika


pepper

1 tablespoon (6 g) ground allspice

8 large eggs

1 large pinch of salt

1 large pinch of baking soda

4 tablespoons (56 g) mayonnaise,

homemade or store-bought

2 teaspoons (4 g) ground white

pepper

2 teaspoons (3 g) crushed hot red

pepper flakes

2 teaspoons (6 g) ground nutmeg


1 teaspoon ground mace

1 teaspoon ground cardamom


store in a dark, cool place for up to 3 months.


CHESAPEAKE BAY DEVILED EGGS

When it’s picnic or barbecue time, deviled eggs are an easy to make choice that everyone

loves. They are inexpensive even if made using the best pastured or heritage-breed

chicken eggs. Here, we season the yolks with Chesapeake Bay Seasoning. Substitute other

complex, warm spice blends, such as Ras el Hanout (page 26), Chili Powder (page 142),

Balti Masala (page 100), or Basic Curry Powder (page 98).

1 tablespoon (7 g) Chesapeake Bay

Seasoning

1 pinch of cayenne or other ground

hot chile pepper

6 tablespoons finely minced chives

(18 g) or scallion (36 g), divided

1. Place the eggs in a medium pot with a lid. Add cold water to cover and stir in the salt

and baking soda. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for

8 minutes or until whites are firm and yolks are mostly, but not completely set.

2. Drain the eggs and transfer to a bowl of ice water to chill. Shell the eggs, then cut them

in half lengthwise. Transfer the yolks to small bowl and mash well. Mix in the mayonnaise,

Chesapeake Bay Seasoning, cayenne, and 4 tablespoons of the minced chives (12 g) or

scallion (24 g).

3. Spoon the yolk mixture into the whites. Sprinkle with remaining chives or scallion.

SPICEMASTER’S

NOTE

If you can’t

find ground

bay leaf, you

may grind your

own. Crumble

the bay leaves

discarding any

tough stems.

Next, grind in

a spice grinder,

coffee grinder,

or blender to a

fine powder.

OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Use to

season fried

fish, shellfish,

chicken, and

French fries.

Add to

potato salad,

chicken

salad, or

tuna salad.

Add to a

Bloody

Mary for

a “Crabby

Mary.”

Add to chili

or deviled

eggs.

YIELD: 16 halves


NORTH AMERICA

PUMPKIN PIE SPICE

This aromatic spice blend shows up in autumn in pumpkin, sweet potato, and squash

pies and evokes memories of Thanksgiving. These days, it’s also used to flavor

pumpkin lattes, a seasonal specialty of many coffee shops. Use about 2 teaspoons

(4 g) of the mix for each pie. It’s your choice whether to use more delicate, floral true

cinnamon or spicier, peppery cassia cinnamon, which is most common in the United

States.

1/2 cup (40 g) ground cinnamon



1 tablespoon (8 g) ground mace

1 tablespoon (8 g) ground cloves




OTHER

SUGGESTED

USES

Toss sweet

potato slices

with melted

butter and

pumpkin pie

spice before

roasting.

Sprinkle into

acorn squash

halves or

quarters

drizzled

with bacon

fat and then

roast.

Add to

pumpkin

cheesecake

or muffin

batter.


SPICED SWEET POTATO PIE

Sweet potato pie is a traditional soul food dish that originated in the cooking of American

slaves, who made brilliant use of foods rejected by white owners. Here we use pumpkin

pie spice to flavor the dough and the filling. Use either softer, sweeter, dark orange sweet

potatoes (often known as yams) or firmer, nuttier, yellow sweet potatoes. If you have access

to pure pork leaf lard, substitute it for all or part of the butter for a savory-flavored, ultratender

crust. It’s worth seeking out soft wheat pastry flour to make a tender, flaky crust.

FOR SPICED SHORTCRUST PIE DOUGH

1/2 pound (2 sticks, or 227 g) unsalted

butter, cut into bits and chilled

3/4 pound (340 g) pastry flour, or a

combination of 1/2 pound (227 g)

all-purpose flour and 1/4 pound (112 g)

cake flour

1 teaspoon Pumpkin Pie Spice


6 to 8 tablespoons (90 to 120 ml)

ice water

FOR FILLING

11/2 pounds (680 g) sweet potatoes, baked

until soft and then peeled

1 cup (225 g) packed dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon (6 g) Pumpkin Pie Spice

4 large eggs, separated

1/2 cup (112 g) sour cream

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

11/2 cups (150 g) granulated sugar

TO MAKE THE DOUGH:

1. Place the butter, flour, pumpkin pie spice, and salt in a mixing bowl. Chill in the freezer

for 30 minutes. In cool weather, proceed directly to the next step.

2. Using the flat beater from an electric mixer, or by hand, cut the butter into the flour

mixture until the butter pieces are the size of peas. Sprinkle the ice water over the flour

mixture while tossing with your hands to distribute the water evenly.

Sprinkle on

cappuccino

or milk

steamers.

148


3. Pat the mixture together until a ball is

formed and the mixture holds together

when a clump is pressed in your hands. If

necessary, add a few more teaspoons of

water, using only enough to gather in dry

ingredients remaining in the bowl.

4. Using the heel of your hand, smear

about one-fourth of the dough at a time

across the work surface to help distribute

the fat evenly in a French technique called

fraisage. This creates long alternating

strands of butter and dough that don’t

allow liquid to seep through. Combine

the smeared dough sections into a

large, flattened ball. Wrap in plastic and

refrigerate for at least 1 hour to relax the

gluten.

5. Roll the dough into a large circle (about

12 inches, or 30.5 cm, in diameter and

¼-inch, or 6.3 mm thick). Without pulling

or stretching, pat the dough round into a

9-inch (23 cm) deep pie dish forming an

attractive border and trimming off any

excess dough. Chill while preparing the filling.



1. Cut the warm sweet potatoes into large chunks. In a large bowl, mash the sweet

potatoes using a potato masher. Add the brown sugar, Pumpkin Pie Spice, egg yolks, and

sour cream and mix to combine; reserve.

2. Separately, in a perfectly dry and clean mixing bowl and using a whisk or the whip

attachment from a mixer, whip the egg whites (preferably at room temperature) and salt

until soft and fluffy. Gradually beat in the granulated sugar and continue beating until firm

and glossy. Fold into the sweet potato mixture.

3. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pie shell and bake on the bottom shelf of the

oven until set in the center, about 11/2 hours. Cool to room temperature, cut into serving

portions, then serve with whipped cream mixed with a little sour cream for tanginess.

YIELD: One 9-inch (23 cm) pie, 8 servings


RESOURCES

Suppliers

Bulgarian Rose Otto

Source for dried Rosa Damascena from Bulgaria, suitable for culinary use. bulgarianroseotto.com/Bulgarian_dried_

flowers_herbs.html

Dru Era Cinnamon

Located in Sri Lanka, this company ships true cinnamon quills and powder worldwide as well as cinnamon products

such as cinnamon oil and cinnamon wood toothpicks. www.ceylon-cinnamon.com

Ethiopian Spices

Source for Ethiopian spices and spice blends such as fiery hot mitmita and mekelesha, which includes long pepper.

ethiopianspices.com/html/products.asp?ItemID=1004

Fante’s Kitchenware

A very knowledgeable staff at their original 9th Street Italian Market store in Philadelphia will help you find the perfect

tool, jar, or pot. Look for a seemingly endless variety of kitchen tools including the oval glass spice jars seen in many of

the photos in this book and a big selection of mortar and pestles. fantes.com

Indian as Apple Pie

Source for well-designed, stackable masala dabba (container for individual spices) that makes it easy to organize your

spice library. indianasapplepie.com/products/spice-tiffin

Kalustyan’s

Excellent line of spices, legumes, grains, nuts, spices, and tools—especially from the Middle East and India.

kalustyans.com

Whole Spice

Freshly ground, small-batch, hand-selected, roasted, and blended spices—mostly kosher with many organic spices

and herbs as well. wholespice.com

Websites and Online Articles

Gernot Katzer’s Spice Pages

The best resource on the web for accurate information about individual spices, indexed by geography, botany,

morphology, and many languages. gernot-katzers-spice-pages.com/engl/index.html

Globe & Mail

Article from the Canadian newspaper, The Globe & Mail, about spice blends.

theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/west-african-citrus-spice/article12814162

How to Dry Persian Limes

Make your own dried Persian limes called limu omani. ehow.com/how_5608388_dry-persian-limes.html

Making Infused Oils

This article from the University of Maine details safe and effective methods of making spice and herb-infused oils.

umaine.edu/publications/4385e

New York Times

Article in the New York Times about spices contaminated with salmonella. nytimes.com/2013/10/31/health/

12-percent-of-us-spice-imports-contaminated-fda-finds.html?_r=0

150


The Food Timeline

Food Timeline with history notes, sources, and timeline for specific foods including many spices. A wonderful tool

for learning. foodtimeline.org

Veg Recipes of Indian

Extensive list of Indian spices and their names in Hindi and English. vegrecipesofindia.com/indian-spices-glossary-ofindian-spices-in-english-and-hindi/

Worldwide Metric

One of many metric converters on the internet, this one is clear and easy to use with converters for temperature,

weight, length, and volume. worldwidemetric.com/measurements.html

Books

Chef’s Book of Formulas, Yields, and Size, by Arno Schmidt

Good resource for professional chefs and home cooks on pack sizes, counts, season, serving sizes, and even calorie

counts for a large variety of ingredients. (A third edition was published in 2003, which would be more up to date.)

John Wiley & Sons, New York 1996, second edition.

Cornucopia II: A Source Book of Edible Plants, by Stephen Facciola

Complete and detailed reference for every edible plant and variety. Meant for the specialist but valuable to find out

just what that vegetable, herb, or fruit is along with extensive information about cultivars. Kampong Publications,

Vista, CA, 1998.

Field Guide to Herbs & Spices, by Aliza Green

Compact-but-thorough guide to international herbs and spices with names in 15 to 20 languages, many unusual

varieties, flavor affinities, how to purchase and store. Quirk Books, Philadelphia, 2006.

Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking, by Michael Ruhlman

Useful for understanding the underlying proportional structure of basic recipes. Once you understand how and why

recipes work, you can successfully make your own variations. Scribner, New York, 2009.

Spices and Seasonings: A Food Technology Handbook, by Donna Tainer and Anthony Grenis

Textbook covering U.S. regulations, spice processing, quality issues, spice research, and commercial production of

seasoning blends. John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1993.

Spices, Salt, and Aromatics in the English Kitchen, by Elizabeth David

David presents English recipes such as spiced beef, chutneys, sauces, and fruit pickles that rely on spices and spice

blends seasoned with much history, literature, and David’s elegant prose. Grub Street, London, 2000.

The Book of Spices, by Alain Stella

A gorgeous coffee table book about spices from the French viewpoint with a short chapter with recipes such as pain

d’épices and lamb tajine with prunes. Flammarion, Paris 1999.

The Cook’s Guide to Spices, by Sallie Morris and Lesley Mackley

A book in the Practical Handbook series published in the U.K. Good information with a British slant about

individual spices and spice blends, especially curry powders and pastes and barbecue spice mixtures.

Hermes House, London 2000.

The Spice & Herb Bible: A Cook’s Guide, by Ian Hemphill

The author grew up with a family in the spice business in Australia. He later opened Herbie’s, a specialty spice store

and online resource for top-quality spices. This man really knows his spices and herbs. Robert Rose, Toronto, 2002.

151

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

MY DEEPEST THANKS go to Ronit and Shuli Madrone, two Israeli-born spicemongers who

carry an enormous selection of hand-selected, freshly ground, small-batch spices for their

company, Whole Spice (www.wholespice.com). While working on this book, they shipped

me six giant boxes of spices weighing over 100 pounds (45 kg) to do all the testing and

production of the spice blends and the recipes using those blends! My list of spices started

with ajwain, allspice, aniseed, annatto, and asafetida—and that’s just the As.

I highly recommend their company for top-quality spices, great service, and the fact that

most of their spices are also kosher. If you’re ever in Napa, California, stop in to their small,

well-stocked spice store at the Oxbow Market. They are especially knowledgeable and carry

a large stock of hard-to-find Turkish, Middle Eastern, and North African spices such as Turkish

Urfa pepper, sumac, culinary rose buds, ground Omani lime, nigella, and za’atar herb. With

their generous help, I was able to make this book a reality.

I couldn’t have produced this book without the assistance of friends and colleagues who

helped plan, shop, prep, cook, and do the inevitable clean-up for our recipe testing and

photo shoots. First, I want to thank culinary teacher Betty Kaplan who has worked with

me on a half-dozen books. She worked closely with me to test all the recipes and to lead

the food production for the photo shoots, even doing the shopping and prep on days that I

couldn’t be there. Through this and other cookbook projects, I have relied on Betty’s calm

and cheerful disposition, educated palate, and considered advice. The ever-energetic Linda

Gellman brought her catering production experience, enthusiasm, and well-salted humor

to our photos shoots. Tracy Sandberg, an artist and highly experienced caterer, brought

her discerning artist’s eye and meticulous technique to our last shoot, helping us to reach

the highest level of photography and food quality. Young and enthusiastic foodie, Diana

Zaccagnini, was generous in volunteering a day to help in the kitchen.

I’ve had the honor and pleasure of working with Steve Legato on just about all my

cookbooks—over a dozen now. He is a consummate professional with an easy-going, warm

personality who has been very appreciative of all my culinary efforts. Because of the rapport

we’ve developed through the years, we have a fantastic working relationship with lots of

collaboration and trust so that together we produce the best clear and appetizing photos

while always working within a tight schedule. Here’s hoping that we have the opportunity to

work on many more books together!

The Giovannucci family, owners of Philadelphia’s historic and beloved culinary emporium,

Fante’s, (www.fantes.com), provided me with a collection of glass spice jars, tools such as

graters and scales, and lots of mortar and pestles—all of the quality that you only need to

buy them once in your lifetime because they are so well made that they last for years and

years. Everybody loves Fante’s for good reason. They have everything and seem to know just

about everything there is to know about kitchenware.

With this, my fifth title for Quarry Books, my thanks go to Clare Pelino, of ProLiterary Agency,

for connecting me with the company in a successful, on-going relationship. Special thanks to Joy

Aquilino, my editor, who has been encouraging, calming, and always there to help me make this

the best possible book. Project manager Betsy Gammons always keeps me on track and full of

positive energy so that together we produce a book that many will turn to again and again.

We filled the house with potent fragrances and ate a lot of aromatic, spice-laden food this

past year. I felt like I was living in a spice bazaar—and I was—with all the bags and bags of

spices lined up in alphabetical order on my thankfully large dining room table. Many friends,

neighbors, and customers from Baba Olga’s Café at Material Culture enjoyed the results of

our testing. How much fun to share these dishes inspired by a world of spice blends with

them and with you, the reader!

152


ABOUT THE AUTHOR

ALIZA GREEN is an award-winning, Philadelphia-based author, journalist, and influential

chef whose books include The Soupmaker’s Kitchen, Quarry Books, 2013, The Butcher’s

Apprentice and Making Artisan Pasta (Quarry Books, 2012), The Fishmonger’s Apprentice

(Quarry Books, 2010), Starting with Ingredients: Baking (Running Press, 2008) and Starting

with Ingredients (Running Press, 2006), four perennially popular Field Guides to food (Quirk,

2004–2007), Beans: More than 200 Delicious, Wholesome Recipes from Around the World

(Running Press, 2004) and a successful collaboration with renowned chef Georges Perrier.

Green’s books have garnered high praise from critics, readers, and culinary professionals

alike, including a James Beard Award for Ceviche!: Seafood, Salads, and Cocktails with a

Latino Twist (Running Press, 2001) co-authored with Chef Guillermo Pernot. Her Making

Artisan Pasta was chosen by Cooking Light as one of its Top 100 Cookbooks of the Past

25 Years.

A past food columnist for the Philadelphia Inquirer, Cooking Light Magazine, Prevention, and

Clean Eating Magazine (Canada), Green is known for her encyclopedic knowledge of every

possible ingredient, its history, culture, and use in the kitchen and bakery, for her lively storytelling

garnered during a lifetime of culinary travel, and for her commitment to buying local,

cooking fresh in season, and sustainably. She also leads culinary tours—her next will be to

Morocco in January of 2016, where she will explore spice markets and the use of complex spice

blends in the Moroccan kitchen. For more information about Aliza’s books and tours, or to ask

her a culinary question, visit her website at www.alizagreen.com. To send a message, click on

the Ask Aliza tab.

153

INDEX

Achiote Paste

ingredients, 54

Quesadillas with Chicken Adobo,

Tomatillos, and Gouda, 54–56

Adobo Seasoning

Honey Adobo-Roasted Sweet Potato

Wedges, 66

ingredients, 66

Advieh

ingredients, 118

Watermelon, Labne, and Mint Salad with

Lime-Advieh Dressing, 118–119

African blends

Berberé, 36

Chermoula, 28

Dukkah, 34

Harissa Paste, 32

Ras el Hanout, 26

Tabil, 30

Apple Pie Spice

ingredients, 132

Spiced Apple Tart with Sharp Cheddar

Pastry, 132–134

apples

Dutch Apple Cake with Currants and

Speculaas Spice, 84–87


Pastry, 132–134

apricots. See Spiced Apple Tart with Sharp

Cheddar Pastry, 132–134

artichokes. See Tunisian Casse-Croûte

Sandwich, 32–33

artificial colors, 14

ash gourd. See Lonvas Chicken Drumsticks

and Pumpkin Curry, 103

Asian blends

Five-Spice Powder, 44

Gomasio, 42

Shichimi Togarashi, 40

Thai Green Curry Paste, 49

Thai Red Curry Paste, 47

bacon

Brazilian Black Bean Feijoada, 63–64

Cowboy Beans, 143

Tuscan Chicken Liver Spread on Rosemary

Crostini, 95

Baharat

Grilled Simit Kebabs, 120–121

ingredients, 120

Balti Masala Spice Mix

Beef Balti Curry, 100–101

Chesapeake Bay Deviled Eggs, 147

ingredients, 100

Barbecue Seasoning Rub

ingredients, 140

Texas Barbecue Boneless Beef Short Ribs,

140–141

Basic Curry Powder


grinding, 22

Indonesian Curry Ketchup, 98–99

ingredients, 98

roasting, 22

beef


Beef Sauerbraten with Gingersnaps, 91

Lonvas Chicken Drumsticks and Pumpkin

Curry, 103


140–141

Berberé

Ethiopian Lentil Stew with Berberé, 37

ingredients, 36

black beans. See Brazilian Black Bean

Feijoada, 63–64

Blackened Mahi-Mahi, 146

bok choy. See Japanese Udon Noodles with

Shichimi Togarashi, 40–41

Bouquet Garni

ingredients, 74

Root Vegetable Potage, 75


Cajun Seasoning

Blackened Mahi-Mahi, 146

ingredients, 146

calabaza. See Lonvas Chicken Drumsticks


carrots

Carrot-Ginger Bisque with Poudre

de Colombo, 68–69


Lobio (Georgian Red Kidney Bean Stew), 83

Marinated Daikon and Carrots, 45

Red Lentil Soup with Yemenite Hawaij, 126


Tunisian Carrot Salad, 30

cashews. See Sri Lankan Coconut Vegetable

Curry with Cashews and Yams,

109–110

cauliflower. See Sri Lankan Coconut

Vegetable Curry with Cashews and

Yams, 109–110

celery

Carrot-Ginger Bisque with Poudre de

Colombo, 68–69



154




Crostini, 95

Chermoula

Preserved Lemons, 28

ingredients, 28

Spicy Moroccan Steamed Mussels with

Chermoula, 29

Chesapeake Bay Seasoning


ingredients, 147

chicken

Japanese Chicken Meatball Skewers with

Gomasio Sprinkle, 43


Curry, 103

Pollo en Mole Verde, 62



Spiced Chicken for Banh Mi, 45


Crostini, 95

Vietnamese Chicken Bahn-Mi Sandwich

with Chinese Five Spice, 45

chickpeas. See Hummus with Warm Buttery

Chickpeas and Zhoug, 129

Chili Powder


Cowboy Beans, 143

ingredients, 142

Cigari Borekas with Spiced Lamb Filling,

26–27

corn. See Spiced Sweet Corn Pudding,

136–137

Cowboy Beans, 143

crawfish. See Louisiana Spicy Boiled

Crawfish, 145

daikon root. See Marinated Daikon and

Carrots, 45

Date-Tamarind Chutney, 112

drying, 18

Dukkah

Pan-Fried Halloumi Cheese with Dukkah

Sprinkle, 34–35

ingredients, 34



eggplant

Provençal Summer Vegetable Tian, 78–79

Sri Lankan Coconut Vegetable Curry with

Cashews and Yams, 109–110

eggs


Tunisian Casse-Croûte Sandwich, 32–33

Ethiopian Berberé, 22


European blends

Bouquet Garni, 74

Fines Herbes, 76

Gingerbread Spice Mix, 88

Herbes de Provence, 78

Khmeli-Suneli, 82

Pickling Spice, 90

Quatre Épices, 80

Speculaas Spice, 84

Spezie Forti, 94

Tempero da Essência, 92

figs. See Winter Bosc Pear and Roquefort

Salad with Spiced Red Wine Figs,

80–81

Fines Herbes

ingredients, 76

Smoked Salmon Scones with French Fines

Herbes, 76–77

Five-Spice Powder

ingredients, 44




fresh spices, 16

Garam Masala


grinding, 22

ingredients, 104

roasting, 22

Tomato Kasundi Chutney, 105

garlic




de Colombo, 68–69


26–27

Cowboy Beans, 143



Hummus with Warm Buttery Chickpeas

and Zhoug, 129






Curry, 103

Portuguese Gambas Mozambique, 92


155






140–141

Thai Lemongrass Shrimp, 50



Turkey Breakfast Sausage Patties, 135


Crostini, 95

Gingerbread Spice Mix

ingredients, 88

Swedish Gingerbread Spice Cookies, 89

Gold Potatoes with Panch Phoron, 106

Gomasio

ingredients, 42



grading, 14

Grilled Vadouvan Salmon with Date-

Tamarind Chutney, 112


grinding, 16

halloumi cheese. See Pan-Fried Halloumi

Cheese with Dukkah Sprinkle, 34–35

Harissa Paste

Harissa Sauce, 32

ingredients, 32



Hawaij

grinding, 22

ingredients, 126


roasting, 22

Herbes de Provence


ingredients, 78

herbs, drying, 18

honey


de Colombo, 68–69


Wedges, 66

Swedish Gingerbread Spice Cookies, 89

Winter Bosc Pear and Roquefort Salad with

Spiced Red Wine Figs, 80–81

Za’atar Manoush, 122–123

Hummus with Warm Buttery Chickpeas and

Zhoug, 129

Indian-Flavored Oil, 19

Indian markets, 15

Indian Subcontinent blends

Balti Masala Spice Mix, 100

Basic Curry Powder, 98

Garam Masala, 104

Khotachiwadi East Indian Bottle

Masala, 102

Panch Phoron, 106

Sambar Podi, 108

Spiced Tarka, 114

Vadouvan, 111




Japanese Udon Noodles with Shichimi

Togarashi, 40–41

Jerk Seasoning

grinding, 22

ingredients, 70

Jerk-Spiced Turkey Wings, 70–71

roasting, 22


Khmeli-Suneli

ingredients, 82


Khotachiwadi East Indian Bottle Masala

grinding, 22

ingredients, 102


Curry, 103

roasting, 22

kidney beans. See Lobio (Georgian Red

Kidney Bean Stew), 83

labne. See Watermelon, Labne, and Mint

Salad with Lime-Advieh Dressing,

118–119

lamb


26–27


Lebanese Lamb Meatballs with Pine Nuts

and Pomegranate, 124–125

Latin-American blends

Achiote Paste, 54

Adobo Seasoning, 66

Jerk Seasoning, 70

Mole Negro, 58

Mole Verde, 61

Poudre de Colombo, 68

Tempero Baiano, 63



156


lemongrass

preparing, 49


lemons

Louisiana Spicy Boiled Crawfish, 145

Preserved Lemons, 28



lentils


Red Lentil Dal with Spiced Tarka, 114




Curry, 103

Louisiana Crawfish Boil Spices

ingredients, 144


mahi-mahi. See Blackened Mahi-Mahi, 146

Marinated Daikon and Carrots

ingredients, 45



Middle Eastern blends

Advieh, 118

Baharat, 120

Hawaij, 126

Seven Spices, 124

Za’atar Mix, 122

Zhoug, 128

Mole

Mole Negro, 58

Mole Verde, 61


Turkey Thighs in Oaxacan Mole Negro,

59–60

Montreal Steak Seasoning

ingredients, 136

Spiced Sweet Corn Pudding, 136–137

mushrooms


Togarashi, 40–41


Crostini, 95

mussels. See Spicy Moroccan Steamed

Mussels with Chermoula, 29

North American blends

Apple Pie Spice, 132

Barbecue Seasoning Rub, 140

Cajun Seasoning, 146

Chesapeake Bay Seasoning, 147

Chili Powder, 142

Louisiana Crawfish Boil Spices, 144

Montreal Steak Seasoning, 136

Pastrami Seasoning, 138

Poultry Seasoning, 135

Pumpkin Pie Spice, 148

okra



olives



pancetta. See Tuscan Chicken Liver Spread

on Rosemary Crostini, 95

Panch Phoron


ingredients, 106

Pan-Fried Halloumi Cheese with Dukkah

Sprinkle, 34–35

paste, 21

Pastrami Seasoning

Pastrami-Cured Salmon with Herb Salad,

138–139

ingredients, 138

pears

Pickled Spiced Plums, 90

Winter Bosc Pear and Roquefort Salad

with Spiced Red Wine Figs, 80–81

Pickling Spice

Baharat, 120


ingredients, 90

Louisiana Crawfish Boil Spices, 144

Pickled Spiced Plums, 90

Spice-Infused Pickling Syrup, 20

pine nuts. See Lebanese Lamb Meatballs

with Pine Nuts and Pomegranate,

124–215

pinto beans. See Cowboy Beans, 143

plant parts, 12–13

plums. See Pickled Spiced Plums, 90


pomegranate molasses. See Lebanese

Lamb Meatballs with Pine Nuts and

Pomegranate, 124–125

pork spareribs. See Brazilian Black Bean

Feijoada, 63–64


potatoes




Chermoula, 29


Poudre de Colombo


de Colombo, 68–69

INDEX 157

ingredients, 68

grinding, 22

roasting, 22

Poultry Seasoning

ingredients, 135


Preserved Lemons

ingredients, 28


production of spice, 13


prunes. See Lobio (Georgian Red Kidney

Bean Stew), 83

Pumpkin Pie Spice

ingredients, 148

Spiced Sweet Potato Pie, 148–149

purchasing, 15

quality, 14

Quatre Épices

ingredients, 80



Quesadillas with Chicken Adobo, Tomatillos,

and Gouda, 54–56

radicchio. See Winter Bosc Pear and

Roquefort Salad with Spiced Red

Wine Figs, 80–81

Ras el Hanout



26–27

grinding, 22

ingredients, 26

roasting, 22




safety, 14, 19

salmon



Pastrami-Cured Salmon with Herb Salad,

138–139

seasoning with wet spice paste, 21


Herbes, 76–77

salmonella, 14, 19

Sambar Podi

grinding, 22

ingredients, 108

roasting, 22



sausage


Cowboy Beans, 143


scallops. See Thai Scallops in Coconut-Red

Curry Sauce, 48

Seven Spices

ingredients, 124



Shichimi Togarashi

ingredients, 40


Togarashi, 40–41

shrimp





Herbes, 76–77

snow peas. See Japanese Udon Noodles with

Shichimi Togarashi, 40–41

Speculaas Spice



ingredients, 84

Spezie Forti

ingredients, 94


Crostini, 95


Pastry, 132–134

Spiced Chicken for Banh Mi

ingredients, 45





Spiced Tarka

ingredients, 114


Spice-Infused Pickling Syrup, 20


Chermoula, 29

spinach. See Sri Lankan Coconut Vegetable

Curry with Cashews and Yams,

109–110

squash. See Lonvas Chicken Drumsticks




storage, 14

158


Swedish Gingerbread Spice Cookies


ingredients, 89

sweet potatoes


Wedges, 66




Tabil

ingredients, 30


Tamarind Purée


ingredients, 83



Curry, 103


Tempero Baiano


ingredients, 63

Tempero da Essência


ingredients, 92


140–141

Thai Curry Pastes

introduction to, 46

Thai Green Curry Paste, 49


Thai Red Curry Paste, 47

Thai Scallops in Coconut-Red Curry Sauce,

48

tomatillos. See Quesadillas with Chicken

Adobo, Tomatillos, and Gouda, 54–56

tomatoes



Cowboy Beans, 143











Chermoula, 29





tuna. See Tunisian Casse-Croûte Sandwich,

32–33



turkey




Turkey Thighs in Oaxacan Mole Negro,

59–60


Crostini, 95

udon noodles. See Japanese Udon Noodles

with Shichimi Togarashi, 40–41

Vadouvan




ingredients, 111

wet spice paste, 21

Vietnamese Chicken Bahn-Mi Sandwich with

Chinese Five Spice, 45

Watermelon, Labne, and Mint Salad with

Lime-Advieh Dressing, 118–119

weights and measures, 23

Wet Spice Paste, 21



yams


Wedges, 66




yogurt



Za’atar Mix

ingredients, 122

Za’atar Manoush, 122–123

Zhoug

Hummus with Warm Buttery Chickpeas

and Zhoug, 129

ingredients, 128

zucchini. See Provençal Summer Vegetable

Tian, 78–79

INDEX 159

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The magic of spice blends _ a guide to the art, science, and lore of combining flavors ( PDFDrive )

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