magazine clutch

More documents

Recommendations

Info

Baja by Bike:Jamie Elvidge
Motorcycling in MexicoAlthough we’d beenjawing about ourtrip to Baja formonths, we metfor our departurebreakfast with absolutelyno plan, unless you countraw intention, which was to ride allthe way to Cabo San Lucas at thesouthernmost tipof Mexico’s ruralPeninsula. Andthe operation ofSeat-o’-The-Pants#137: Ride deepinto an unfamiliarforeign countryto rate the touringperformance ofthe motorcycles.We are a very fungroup, obviously,like the kindthat drives UrbanLegends and partyjokes. “Did youhear the one about the three motojournalistswho went to Mexicowithout a map?” The Three Amigosthat consisted of me, “The One WhoPays The Check;” my trusted compadre,Andy Cherney, who knewjust enough Spanish to keep us outof jail; and our esteemed guest tester,former Motorcyclist Magazineexecutive editor, Marc Cook, a.k.a.“The Voice Of Reason.” Well, actuallythat is not very true because wedid have a map during this time.And we also had three luxurioustouring cruisers to test -- BMW’snew R1200CL, Harley’s time-provenElectra Glide, and alsoYamaha’sRoyal Star Venture. Which you alsocan read about which was our favoritetwo-wheeled from traveling companionin our 2004 Touring CruiserComparison Test. It is MotorcycleCruiser’s style to not have a plan --to let our stories unfold on the fly-- but we are not short on commonsense. After loading up on bottledwater and octane boost, we crossedinto Mexico at the small Tecate gateto avoid the depressing squall thatplagues the Tijuana crossing. Thisroute to touristy Ensenada, wherewe would pick up Mexico’s Highway1, was also more circuitous and scenic,both on the U.S. side and alsoevenin the Mexico aswell.The rules had changed abruptly.We could smell it in the trash thatlined the roads, in the clouds ofdiesel fumes and the burning tires.We could see it in children as theystrolled casually past rotting carcassesof road-kill cows and hear it inthe bark of mange-ridden dogs whoran at us in the street. Our sensescame alight with anew intensity anda profound level ofconcentration thatwould color ourentire journey. Wehad all been as farsouth as Ensenada,a Pacific portcity that remains apopular shoppingand party spot formost Americanvisitors despite itsdingy, desperateatmosphere. Wecrept through thecity streets in quiet disregard, finallypopping out the southern end tofind our hearts beating a little faster...alittle more freely. Hola, unknown.The Baja Peninsula is thelongest land arm of its type in theworld and Mexico’s last frontier, allbut forgotten in its isolation frommainland industry and politics.Before the mid 1970s there was nopaved highway to span its length,only a network of goat paths andother animals that are crossing.December 2020 CLUTCH 25
Page 6 and 7: CLUTCHIn This Issue10Secrets of Jap
Page 8: Danger ZoneRiding through a minefie
Page 11 and 12: SECRETSofJAPAN
Page 13 and 14: We rode as two groups (the second l
Page 15: December 2020 CLUTCH 15
Page 18 and 19: An off-road journeyThis is a disast
Page 21 and 22: My tent also comeswith stakes andth
Page 26 and 27: Since there is so little ediblefoli
Page 28 and 29: We here werelike merelyall professi
Page 30: “A motorcycletour through Bajais
Page 34 and 35: MOTO WONDERWOMANFor many, motorcycl

magazine clutch

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?