Acne Studios

Lin Hsi Yun

19008913

20/21 BA (Hons) Fashion Marketing

Global Fashion Branding: Theory

Word Count: 2150

Table of Content

21 Brand Communication

4

Introduction to Acne Studios

26

Brandboard

6

The Brand- Acne Studios

28

Business Ethics

12

Brand Positioning and

Consumer Profile

30

Brand Evaluation

16

Acne Studios’ Global Scope

31

References

18

The Retail Brand Experience

Introduction to Acne Studios:

Based in Stockholm, Sweden, the multidisciplinary fashion house was

established in 1996 by the cofounder and creative director, Jonny Johansson, as part

of the creative collective ACNE. (Acne Studios: What to Know About the Fashion

Brand | Highsnobiety, 2020). Its brand name was an acronym for “Ambition to

Create Novel Expressions” (Acne Studios: What to Know About the Fashion Brand |

Highsnobiety, 2020).

“Ambition to

Create

Johansson created 100 pairs

of raw denim jeans with red

stitching for friends and family

(Acne Studios | HYPEBEAST,

2021). The jeans gain lots of

popularity and media coverage,

resulting in ACNE creating more

apparel and expand beyond

denim. And the Acne Studios

journey began.

1997

It opened its first flagship store

in New York City. It now has

over 45 stores around the world

including flagship stores in

Paris, London, Los Angeles, and

Tokyo (The Business of Fashion,

n.d.).

2012

Novel

Expressions”

2006

Acne Studios separated

from ACNE to become its

own standalone company

(Acne Studios: What to Know

About the Fashion Brand |

Highsnobiety, 2020).

Acne Studios (Highsnobiety, n.d.)

Inspired by contemporary street culture, art, and architecture, Acne Studios

developed a series of ready to wear collection that covers footwear, accessories, and

denim for both men and women (About - Acne Studios, 2021). This minimalist label

that serves as an emblem of Scandinavian cool is produced by juxtaposing interesting

proportions and custom fabrics. Maximal minimalism becomes the main appeal of

Acne Studios.

Jonny Johansson (Jansson and Kisby, 2008)

4 Acne Studios Acne Studios 5

The Brand- Acne Studios:

Before being a standalone company, Acne Studios is part of the creative

collective ACNE along with other entities; Acne Film, Acne Advertising, Acne

Digital, etc. ACNE being a creative consultancy building brands is made up of

different creative work thus becoming a branded house by founding Acne Studios

(ACNE, 2020). Since it separated itself from Acne, it is now a privately own company

with no parent company and does not has any sub-brand under it.

Figure 1. acne studios logo (Walterfreund, 2017)

Most people associate Acne Studios with the brand name only since its logo is

not very well-known. In a survey that was sent out to 30 respondents, almost 87%

of them do not recognise the company logo (see Figure 1). The logo is an oval

shape with a house - its head office- in the middle, wrapping with the words ACNE

STUDIOS STOCKHOLM around it (see Figure 2). It does not have any colour or

distinctive font, it is a simple logo that suggests the heritage of the brand. Moreover,

the word “Acne” is known as a skin disorder, it gives a sense of uniqueness and

curiosity to the people that first read the name. Follow up to the next survey

question about whether they would be curious about the company name or not,

over half of the percent chose yes (see Figure 3).

Figure 2. Survey Question

The brand’s signature pink hue is a differentiation of itself from other brands. From

packaging, shopping bags, merchandising, and stationery, it’s all covered in pink.

The highly recognisable bags make the brand stands out, easily identify, and

become memorable for the consumers. Acne Studios successfully made the colour

pink-which is considered a very feminine colour-into a desirable bag that even

males will not mind walking around with. A significant number of people (47%)

will automatically associate the brand with the colour pink when talking about the

brand.

Figure 3 .Survey Question


Competitors Analysis

The three main competitors of Acne Studios are Maison Margiela, Reformation,

and A.P.C.. Those three brands have some similarities to Acne Studios that is a threat

for the brand but also some weaknesses that can be a benefit for Acne Studios. In

the next two pages, a table chart will be conducted, listing out the different details

of those brands. The categories are: Brand Messages, Products or Services, Prices,

Promotion, Strengths/ Weaknesses. Although these are the main competitors,

however, other fashion brands are also competitors for Acne Studios and will be

included in the same positioning map.

- Main Competitors -

- Other Competitors -

face motif Fall/Winter 2018 campaign(Acne Studios, 2019)

It developed a new typeface from 2014 till the present and has been its visual

identity since then (Acne Studios – Letters from Sweden, n.d.). Another element that

becomes recognised for the brand is its “face” design that consists of two dots and

a line- :|. This mascot has been on all sorts of Acne products and becomes bigger

and bigger since FW17 (Leach, 2017).


Maison Margiela Reformation A.P.C.

Brand Messages

• “celebrates unconventional aesthetics and embraces

the philosophy that fashion is an artistic expression

rather than a cult for personality” (Maison Margiela | Our

Companies | OTB, n.d.)

• to craft, creative construction and mystery (Li, 2016)

• Mission: “Being naked is the #1 most sustainable option.

We’re # 2” (About Ref - Company | Reformation, 2021)

• “We make effortless silhouettes that celebrate the feminine

figure, and pioneer sustainable practices, focusing on People,

Planet and Progress each step of the way.” (About Ref -

Company | Reformation, 2021)

• A.P.C. has the meaning of “Atelier de Production et de

Creation”. In short, it implies that ‘only because it is not

unique but basic, the person who wears it will maximise the

individuality’ (Individual Marketing Report and Advertising

Campaign Analysis - A.P.C. | yuki | note, 2019)

• designed with the goal “make something deep and exciting

with boring elements.”

Products or Services

• womenswear, menswear, footwear, eyewear,

accessories, objects

• well know for its Haute Couture collection under its

“Artisanal” Line and Tabi boot (Maison Margiela | Our

Companies | OTB, n.d.)

• known to experiment with materials and dying techniques

creating preexisting vintage garments and accessories

(Maison Margiela | Our Companies | OTB, n.d.)

• womenswear, accessories, footwear (coming soon)

• products are all limited editions, created a sense of urgency

(Case study: fashion brand Reformation, n.d.)

• Known for its dresses

• Inclusive Sizing: from 0 to size 24

• Womenwear, menswear, footwear, objects, accessories

• Known for the minimalist, without ornament, tailored

garments (“simple patterns”, “clean lines”)

• Well known for raw denim jeans, the ramrod-stiff Japanese

selvage jeans have been the label’s best seller (Schneier,

2017)

Prices

• £22 ~ £2631

• Used premium pricing strategy that brings its coat to

around £1000~ £2000

• £96 ~ £1923

• Although doesn’t has the most competitive price point, its

pricing remain consistent, creating a sweet spot for its price

encouraging customers to buy in full price by not expecting a

reduction (Marci, 2019)

• £180 ~ £2080

• benefits from hitting at an attainable sweet spot above

the likes of J. Crew but below much of designer fashion

(Schneier, 2017)

Promotion

• posting new products & collections on social media

• Collaborating with other brands such as Barneys New

York, Converse, G-Shock, Opening Ceremony, Hermès,

H&M, L’Oreal and Swarovski (Maison Margiela |

HYPEBEAST, n.d.)

• goes against commercial flow: no branding, no

advertising, no marketing product, only a numerical

system for its collections which are composed of several

product lines (Top 10 Brands That Successfully Took To

Non-Traditional Advertising, n.d.)

• more inclined towards opening pop-up stores

• sends email communications 2-3 time a week (Marci, 2019)

• Sharing celebrities on its social media page who had wear its

products in public such as Rihanna, Karlie Kloss and Taylor

Swift, Kendall Jenner and Kaia Gerber

• Strongly advertises itself with its core value of sustainability

• Actively Interact with customers on its social media

• approach the way close to niche marketing (Battan, 2017)

• Actively collaborate with designers and brands: Nike, Louis

W, Kanye West, Carhartt WIP, Suzanne Koller, JJJJound, etc

(Morency, 2020).

• No big advertisements or fashion show, “I prefer to be

unnoticeable… unnoticeable but eventually remarkable.”

Said by Jean Touitou, creator of A.P.C. (Blanks, 2017)

Strengths/ Weaknesses

• sell wide variety of products

• idea of anonymity served as the fundamental basis in its

presentations, shows, collections and marketing, creating

curiosity (Maison Margiela | Our Companies | OTB, n.d.)

• The well known recycle line that helps reduce waste and

pollution

• Choose not to depend on advertising and focus on its

garment quality and design, restricting them to raise

awareness to potential customer

• a relatable brand tone (casual and playful) is conduct

throughout and acroos the brand (Marci, 2019)

• A transparent sustainability and commitment report can

be found on its website, the detailed information shows

its progress of being sustainable and gaining truest from

customers

• got exposed by former black employee of being mistreated

and encounter racism in the workplace (Parisi, 2020),

creating a mistrust and bad impression for the brand being

unethical, not living up to its statement

• becomes the bridge that fill in the gap between upscale

fashion world and the grounded day-to-day one (Craig,

2018)

• has succeeded in positioning itself as a reference in

high-end denim and jeans. Jean Touitou (A.P.C. jeans,

minimalism and expertise | EN, 2019)

• Its scale is relatively small compared to other fashion

company


Brand Positioning and Consumer Profile:

High Price

Acne Studios target both men and women within the age of 20-45 years.

As products are seen as investment pieces for its customers, they most likely will

have a high-income, being in the middle or upper class. They live in city centers and

are highly educated, likely to work in creative fields such as fashion, architecture,

graphic design, etc. They enjoy gaining new knowledge by doing different actives

in its leisure time such as going to an art gallery, movie theatre, shopping, traveling,

and reading magazines.

Less Sustainable

More Sustainable

Astrid

Pen Portrait

• 26 years old from United Kingdom

graduated from graphic design major

• working as a freelance graphic designer

since graduated, currently working while

studying interior design

• lives in a rented flat with her boyfriend in

London centre

• annual income is around £44,000

• an independent woman that is a

professional at her field and get what she

wants once she put her mind to it

• slowly becoming vegetarian for the environment,

animals, and her diet

• concerned about the environment and would

spend more on Eco Friendly products

• can speak English and Spanish, currently

learning Swedish

• will go on walks and runs with her boyfriend

everyday with its saluki, Ziv

• follows fashion shows and trends on social

media and newspaper/magazines such as The

Independent or Love magazine

Low Price


• outgoing person and love taking pictures, gets inspiration for her work, interior

design, photography, and lifestyle

• loves taking aesthetic pictures for everything and herself, boyfriend is a

photographer and will always take pictures for her and post it on her social

media

• peaceful, aesthetically pleasing restaurants and cafeterias are her favourite

places to explore, will spend the whole afternoon sitting there doing work

• into skincare/makeup and fashion brands, usually shops in Aesop, Lancôme,

ACNE studios, COS, & Other Stories, Chanel

• goes thrifting once in a while

• enjoys buying plants and having them around the house

• really into Chill/ R&B songs

• will go to a fancy restaurants with her boyfriend or her friends once in a month

• prefer red and white wine compared to other alcohols


Acne Studios’ Global Scope:

Acne Studios Repurposed Collection

(Acne Studios, 2020)

It has more than 800 staff under its

company, around 200 are working at

the headquarters in Stockholm. It also

operates offices in Paris, New York,

Oslo, and Shanghai (The Business

of Fashion, n.d.). Its turnover doubled

between 2013 and 2016 and currently

generates over €200 million a year

(Jonny Johansson | BoF 500, 2021).

In 2016 alone, Acne Studios reached

almost twice the figure for the

previous year, €158 million in revenue

(ACNE STUDIOS | MAGAZINE B,

2021). However, the sales growth slow

The brand name is also its

mission statement, which is “Ambition

to Create Novel Expressions.” It shows

a creative collective that freely does

whatever it wants and is always in

constant progress of evolving and

experimenting. It positions itself as

inclusivity, meant for everyone, and

doesn’t seek approval from society

or follow set norms. It has also been

aiming for being more sustainable,

which can be seen in its “Repurposed”

series in 2020.

Acne Studios Repurposed Collection

(Acne Studios, 2020)

in 2017, rising just 9 percent, which was the slowest pace in at least a decade (Acne

Studios welcomes Chinese investors for a minority stake, 2018). Its annual revenue in

2019 is £196.04 million according to a financial statement from EBSCO Host (EBSCO

Host. 2021).

New Acne Studios headquarters in Stockholm (Acne Studios, n.d.)

Acne Studios is independently owned and has over 60 retail stores in 15 countries

(Jonny Johansson | BoF 500, 2021). It uses both direct and indirect channels for

selling products. As mentioned before, it has stores located globally and has its own

online website. It also sells through retailers in department stores and outlets, e.g.,

Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty, Barney’s, Bergdorf, etc.


The Retail Brand Experience:

Acne Studios has always considered store architecture and design an important

element for its brand. The brand personality of minimalism can be seen across its

recognisable retail store, by the coherent simplicity and clean lines in the aesthetic.

Each store has different colourways and concepts in response to each location that

design specifically for the place. The stores’ carefully selected locations along with

the clothes and furniture act as “branding by doing.” (Marcus, 2010)

Johansson thinks by creating the same concept in every store (looking the same) will

become disconnected from time, disconnected from the area, or the place they’re in.

“I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your

opinion is about that.” (Johnson, 2016)

For instance, Schiller sees Osaka as “a modern city at the edge of urban

development.” The broad silhouette and soft lighting give off the feeling of Blade

Runner, which is perfectly integrated with its store location and design concept for

the flagship store in Osaka (Acne Studios Interior Branding Gone Right, n.d.).

“

Every Acne

Studios store has a

distinctive character

based on its surroundings

and different elements

of interior design, and

reflects our belief in

the artist studio as an

open and developing

space for creativity.

- Mikael Schiller, executive

chairman of Acne Studios.

”

Acne Studios in Osaka (Acne Studios, n.d.)

Acne Studios in Pilestræde (Acne Studios, n.d.)


Its online retail spaces consist of the colours of white and grey only, a very simple

and clean design. Align with the brand identity being minimalist yet still display

different colours through its products.

Both retail experiences showcase modernity, being linear and colourful, making his

minimalist clothing pop against the maximalist store and web design.

Brand Communication:

Unlike other brands, Acne Studios doesn’t follow the usual branding and

communications strategy that every other brands are using. It uses non-traditional

method to advertise itself in a way and doesn’t resorts to marketing tricks. In this

following section, its brand communication will be analyze by using PESO model.

PESO

Owned Media:

Between 2005 and 2014, Acne Studios

created ACNE paper by replacing the

other forms of traditional advertising

(About Acne Paper, n.d.). Each issue

has been created around one idea

and by combining style and culture,

it transcended the traditional brand

magazine. It thus allows them to reach the

right people and establish integrity and

authenticity.

It also offers “By Appointment“, which customers can experience a bespoke

personal shopping service by register for an appointment (Stores, 2021). The team

will understand the need of the customers and adapting to the individual style

using their styling skills and in-depth brand knowledge. The service is applicable

to both in-store and virtual environments and can be used in every store of Acne

Studios.

Acne Studios Website

(Acne Studios, n.d.)

Acne Studios Appointment Registration

(Acne Studios, n.d.)

Social Media Channels-

• Its Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter, constantly upload (same contents across

media) new products and designs, as well as runway shows, campaigns, behind

the scenes, stores design, and artworks that coordinate with its lifestyle and

aesthetic

• According to Socialbakers that monitor business social media profiles, its Twitter

account is losing followers every day. In the past 6 months, it loses 895 followers,

by assuming Acne Studios not making further changes to it, it will lose about 1790

followers in a year. (See Figure 4)


Paid Media:

Acne Studios does not use any conventional and traditional forms of advertising,

the brand has avoided celebrity appearances, opting for more honest marketing

(Azar, 2018).

In an interview by GQ, Johansson said,“I like the celebrities to stay at a distance.”

When got asked about whether he would want to dress a celebrity in Acne

Studios, he responded “It’s been more about branding… if I see Rihanna for

instance, it’s just the latest brand. There’s no expression. She expresses amazingly

with her voice, but the other communication is soulless. Branded.” (Johnson, 2016)

• Created WeChat, a Chinese multi-purpose social media tool, and Weibo, a

microblogging website, to expand communication strategy to the Asia market.

Upload the same contents across its social media

• YouTube has clips of runway shows, new designs and products, the inspirations

and behind the scene with artists

• Pinterest has a wide range of photos for season runways, stores, collections

located on different boards

Figure 4. Acne Studios Twitter Followers

However, Acne Studios does showcase its design

at fashion weeks. It presented the main women’s

Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter collections

twice a year at Paris Fashion Week. Men’s main

collections are presented twice a year in Paris and

the women’s Resort and Pre-Fall collections are

presented in New York (Jonny Johansson | ACNE –

Ambition to Create Novel Expression, 2016).

FW20 Paris Fashion Week


Earned Media:

Acne Studios already has a reputation in the fashion industry, naturally different

magazines and bloggers will publish articles about the brand. By doing different

interviews with different companies, it can be exposed to more potential customers

and established authority’s audience. The brand is also famous for its store design,

whenever they announce an upcoming new store or showcase new store designs,

there will be articles discussing the concept and ideas. The brand may have trade

valuable content to some large magazine companies for media coverage.

Shared Media:

Combining the above PEO, the rest of

the work depends on the shared media.

Online word-of-mouth is a powerful tool

and can be seen through social media

channels. The average number of likes

on Acne Studios’ Instagram is around

15,000. It does get continually tag by

other accounts, usually Acne Studios’

products. The hashtag #AcneStudios

has around 848k posts, and the second

hashtag when searching acne studios

is #acnestudiosfjallraven around 11k

posts. There are very little comments,

an average of 30 comments per post.

There is less engagement on its Twitter

account, an average of 30 likes, and 7

retweets with 0 replies. On its Facebook

page, it has an average of 150 likes,

an average share of 9, and around 5

comments per post, however, it fluctuates

from post to post, depending on its

content. This applies to all social media

by Acne Studios.

Acne Studios X Russell

Westbrook

Those collaborations allow Acne Studios to highlight its quirkiness and creativity.

It also helps increase brand awareness and entering new markets that may grab

attention from different audiences. Thus increase market share and finding potential

customers.

Co-Branding & Collaboration:

Acne Studios has been collaborating with representatives in different creative

industries to produce limited-edition collections. It is in sync with its brand strategy

and coherent with its brand value and mission.

Some of the collaborations are:

• Launching a book with British

photographer Lord Snowdon

• With Liberty London to create a

collection featuring artworks of

Swedish artist Hilma af Klint

• Swedish fashion label Fjällräven

• NBA player Russell Westbrook

• USA toy franchise Monster in my Pocket

• British fashion company Mulberry

Acne Studios X Lord Snowdon

Acne Studios X Lord Snowdon

Acne Studios X Monster in My

Pocket


- Original Old Fonts -

"I wanted this pink paper because people considered pink being

ugly." Jonny Johansson, Co-founder/ Creative Director

- New Fonts Created in 2014 -

FW 2020

AD

Campaign

&

Runway

Show

Ambition to Create

Novel Expression

Astrid

- 26 years old

- freelance graphic designer

- lives in the London centre with

her boyfriend

- annual income is around £44,000

- independent woman that gets

what she wants

- currently studying interior design

while working


- live an aesthetic lifestyle

Business Ethics:

Strengths Weaknesses Threats

Opportunities

• website has a section dedicated to

sustainability stating its ambition,

along with its newest sustainability

report

• Have been a member of Fair Wear

Foundation (FWF) that monitor and

improve labour conditions at the

factories. The brand gets ‘Brand

Performance Check’ and is included

in it FWF Brand Performance Check

Report

• Not using traditional advertising,

typically just “branding”, going for

more honest marketing strategy

• Give out a statement of standing

against racism on social media

• Good On You, the website that rates

the sustainability of a company, rated

Acne Studios not good enough and

not taking adequate steps to reduce

its greenhouse gas emissions. (Acne

Studios, 2020)

• Good on You rated from three

areas: Planet, People, Animals.

Acne Studios got rated 2/5, 3/5, 2/5

respectively

• Not making actions after stating the

against of racism, the comments are

not being supportive, instead people

are angry and disappointing about

it not donating, statement has no

meaning and people are unfollowing

• the reports information can be more

detailed and avoid writing general

statement

• provide evidence on all sorts of

ethical issues it has done: reduces

carbon and greenhouse gas

emissions, ensures living wage

payment, formal animal welfare

policy

• Making action and efforts to the

ethical issues that show evidence of

it actually making changes towards

the community

• competitors are making action,

such as COS donating money to

BLM and speak out against racism

• ethical performance can be hard

to measure, especially cultural

appropriation that even if its good

intention at first, people may still

find it inappropriate

• the rising issue of being ethical is

going to have more attention in the

future, may have pressure on the

brand if not doing any action

Sustainability Report Section

Standing Against Racism post


Brand Evaulation:

Acne Studios definitely offers the content that

other luxury fashion brands are not offering. It stands with

what it says and cultivating the creative field with culture

and arts then implements it into the fashion brand. The

collaboration with artists from different industries is one

of the brand’s highlights that can grab lots of attention

and is undoubtedly one of the thing that people would

look forward to. However, in order to stand with what

it says, it loses the chance to offer to a wider audience.

Although it does not market like others or relate with a

wider audience, the people who shop at Acne Studios are

more loyal customers that understand the brand itself and

the concepts behind it. The creative industry is a large

field, there are more things that Acne Studios can utilise

in its brand and produce a whole new thing that no one

would think of. There is a large potential for it to create,

it is also interesting to see how Acne Studios will market

its products without using the traditional methods in the

future.

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