Charleston Cooks! - eatdrink Magazine

Charleston Cooks! - eatdrink Magazine


Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario


eat eatdrink drink




The New Fork

in the Road

Refreshing Changes in

London’s Pub Scene

• The Church Key Bistro-Pub

• The Morrissey House

• Chancey Smith’s

Steak & Seafood House


Learning From — Dining With —

Stratford Chefs School

Issue 20 • December/January 2010

The Stu�ed Zucchini

in Lucan

Ferguson Apiaries

near Hensall

Stratford... unplugged

Stratford is known for imaginative and innovative experiences in food

and this season is no exception. Taste and critique the menus of

celebrity chefs as Stratford Chefs School students enthusiastically

serve their creations to eager diners. Follow the rich aromas of fresh

roasted coffee, hot chocolate and pastries wafting from bohemian

cafes. Savour Winterfeast menus created by local chefs during our

Winterfest celebrations. Spice things up with community chili tasting

fun at our annual Heartburn Day.

Stratford’s long tradition of entertaining our guests is heightened this

winter with special surprises. Live at City Hall begins a series of Jazz

and Blues concerts with Dan Hill on January 2 and Harrison Kennedy

on January 16. Randy Bachman entertains at the Festival Theatre

on January 27 as part of Tim Hortons Hockey Day in Canada

celebration. Come and share our love of hockey, music and food

– a culture to embrace.


to plan a winter getaway to Stratford.










6 Culinary Tourism



9 �e Church Key Bistro-Pub, in London


12 Chancey Smith’s Steak & Seafood House, in London


16 �e Morrissey House, in London


19 �e Stratford Chefs School, in Stratford



24 �e Stu�ed Zucchini, in Lucan


26 Honey, Honey: �e Ferguson Apiaries



32 Charleston Cooks!



37 �e BUZZ


45 Je� Crump’s Earth to Table


50 Lucy Waverman’s A Year in Lucy’s Kitchen



52 Watching What We Eat



54 Eat Drink Wine Chocolate



58 A Year of Beer: �e Best of 2009



62 A Cook’s Life: Part IV




A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario

A Virtual Magnet for All �ings Culinary

Read an Interactive Magazine Online, Find Restaurants, Read Reviews and More!


Chris McDonell —

Managing Editor

Cecilia Buy —

Contributing Editor

Bryan Lavery


Sande Marcus —

Advertising Sales Director

Diane Diachina —

Advertising Sales Representatives

Jane Antoniak —

Sue Laur —

Telephone & Fax

519 434-8349

Mailing Address

London Magazine Group

525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6


Bryan Lavery Jane Antoniak Jennifer Gagel

Darin Cook Rick VanSickle D.R. Hammond

Sue Moore David Hicks David Chapman

Chris McDonell

Editorial Advisory Board

Bryan Lavery

Cathy Rehberg

Copy Editor

Jodie Renner —

Graphic Design & Layout

Joanne Grogan

Chris McDonell


Milan Kovar/KOVNET


Impressions Printing

Copyright © 2009 eatdrink, Hawkline Graphics and the writers. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in

eatdrink or on is strictly prohibited without the

written permission of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of

12,000 issues published monthly. �e views or opinions expressed

in the information, content and/or advertisements published in

eatdrink are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily

represent those of the Publisher. �e Publisher welcomes submissions

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.



’Tis the Season

By Chris McDonell


hate to get too far ahead of myself, but

with 2010 already encroaching into my

calendar, I �nd myself simultaneously

wondering how on earth another year

has passed already while also planning for

the NEW year. Of course, there’s the matter

of “the holidays” to attend to �rst, but that’s

business that I truly enjoy. I am in the enviable

position of having no dreaded “social

obligations” to attend to this year, only the

company of good friends and family to look

forward to. I hear a whisper within that

perhaps more diligent networking would

produce a more taxing schedule but, regardless,

I will enjoy the next month with gusto. I

hope you will be able to do the same.

Mirth and merriment, some special food

and drink, laughter and enjoyment of the

people around us — this is the order of the

day, and that should be easy to embrace. I

�nd it curious that we are bombarded with

an image of Scrooge as the bitter, miserly

old codger that he was, as if we didn’t quite

buy his redemption and, as Charles Dickens

wrote it, subsequent years of generosity and

recompense for years spent wallowing in

wealth and loneliness. Let’s remember the

redeemed Scrooge, whose �rst act after his

night of reckoning was to buy the best turkey

the butcher had to o�er, and to send it anonymously

to the family he knew needed it

most. In the true spirit of A Christmas Carol,

I hope Scrooge is seen happily at work all

through the holiday season, and ever after.

We look forward to seeing many of you at the

London Wine & Food Show, January 15-17, at

the Western Fair. We’re at work also on New

Year’s Resolution Number One, to be in better

communication with our readers and the

culinary community. Your thoughts, ideas

— and news — are always welcomed.




issue no. 20

Culinary Tourism

Interest is growing for a London Initiative

By Bryan Lavery

Regular readers of eatdrink magazine

may recall my recent articles about

culinary tourism and community

building. I would like to give you

an update on conversations and progress in

this area.

In speaking with Tourism London, I identi�ed

the need to de�ne culinary tourism

and to catalogue the multiple culinary tourism

experiences and opportunities

in the London region. I also determined

that much of the infrastructure

is already in place, that

there is a need to further identify

collaborative partners and then

develop and grow existing culinary

forums and services.

In an e�ort to uphold the

case for London to be formally

recognized as a unique culinary

tourism region, I am continuing

to map and track the most sustainable and

economically relevant social and cultural

forces at work in our culinary sector. �e next

steps are to further develop a local Culinary

Tourism Initiative Association and Board, as

well as a blog, newsletter and website.

I am encouraged by the initial steps for a

more vigorous culinary initiative in the London

region. Tourism London has embraced

the �rst step and is partially funding a local

culinary guide. Published by the London

Magazine Group, publishers of eatdrink, the

culinary guide will take a comprehensive

and integrated approach to promoting our

local culinary community by identifying

London and area as a desirable destination

for those interested in culinary tourism, as a

primary or secondary consideration.

To this end, the early adopters in this

initiative want to create an annual, unique

publication that will highlight the diverse

culinary people and businesses in London

and area. �is will function as much more

than a restaurant guide, although it will do

that well too. �is resource will complement


and supplement the London Visitors’ Guide

published by Tourism London. �e culinary

guide will be ported to the web, where it will

also be enhanced with video and interactivity

and integrated with the innovative new Tourism

London website designed by local design

studio Velocity and Associates under the direction

of Marco Di Carlo and Shane Stuart.

�e culinary guide will show our city to its

best advantage. eatdrink will provide some

mentoring, if desired, for the culinary

community in promoting

their businesses in this publication.

It will be of bene�t for foodrelated

businesses to advertise in

this publication as it is so closely

linked to their industry. �e primary

target audience includes

people from London and region,

and those visiting the area who

have an interest in culinary experiences,

whether that is the purpose

of the trip or an added attraction.

�e guide will complement Tourism London’s

marketing to the corporate meeting and

incentive travel audience, as well as group

and motor coach tour marketers. �e publication

will include original, local and innovative

photography and original, more comprehensive

editorial content to more e�ectively

promote the culinary businesses in the area.

Ontario Culinary Tourism Summit

I recently attended the Ontario Culinary

Tourism Summit in Toronto to investigate

current developments, funding opportunities,

strategic partnerships and best

practices of other Ontario regions that are

leading in the �eld of culinary tourism. I

was joined by one other person, who represented

a London-based business association

and was very interested to learn how

a more broad-based culinary tourism may

bene�t existing London businesses and help

to attract more culinary-related investment

in the vicinity. Together we looked at the

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 7

tremendous opportunities to encourage culinary

tourism in our region.

Building on the empowering success of last

year’s inaugural Culinary Tourism Summit,

the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA)

partnered with the Province of Ontario, Wines

of Ontario, Savour Ontario Dining, Toronto

Food Business Incubator, Green Belt, Local

Food Plus and other stakeholders to create this

year’s summit by bringing together over 350

delegates. �e delegates consisted of growers

and producers, chefs and restaurateurs,

educators and students, destination marketing

organizations, accommodators and media to

enhance and develop culinary tourism o�erings

across the province.

�e event was hosted by Rebecca Le Heup,

Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary

Tourism Alliance. �e day’s agenda included:

the importance of buying local, the value of

supporting local farmers, establishing regional

culinary tourism sectors in Ontario,

food sustainability, mapping culinary destinations,

and charting sustainable solutions to

advance culinary tourism in Ontario.

�e summit consisted of panel discus-

sions, presentations and networking, allowing

delegates to learn from the experiences

and knowledge of the practitioners of

Culinary Tourism in Ontario. �e summit

also provided an opportunity to learn more

about culinary tourism best practices, and

inventory and infrastructure development.

�e �rst panel consisted of moderator

Kevin Brauch, aka �e �irsty Traveler on

the Fine Living Network; Arlene Stein, Director

of Catering and Events for U of T’s

Hart House and co-chair of Slow Food Toronto;

and Chef Jason Parsons, of Niagara’s

Peller Estates.

Presentations were given by Jon Ogryzolo,

Dean of Food and Wine Sciences for the

Wine and Visitor Education Centre at Niagara

College. �e Wine Visitor and Education

Centre is the �rst on-campus facility of its

kind in North America. �e centre celebrates

Ontario and Canadian wines, is the home of

the Niagara College Teaching Winery, and

is set among 40 acres of teaching vineyards

at the base of the Niagara Escarpment, a UN

World Biosphere reserve.

Suzanne Caskle of George Brown’s Culi-


nary Tourism Management Program spoke

about the college’s new interdisciplinary

program that explores the relationship between

food and travel as it relates to destinations,

agriculture and economic development.

Caskle and her student panel talked

about how the program examines successful

culinary destinations and products as well

as examples of emerging culinary tourism

destinations in Ontario, across Canada and

around the world.

Among the highlights of the summit was

the opportunity to discuss the diverse terroir

of our province at a “Farmer–Chef Meet and

Greet.” We sampled excellent regional foods

from six culinary tourism regions across the

province, as well as a variety of Ontario’s

exceptional wines and local beers at a “Taste

of Ontario reception,” which was sponsored

by Savour Ontario and Wines of Ontario.

Stratford, Durham, Peterborough and

the Kawarthas are four of �fteen emerging

culinary tourism destinations in Ontario

who shared their challenges and successes

in advancing culinary tourism in their regions.

�e OCTA was also pleased to have

issue no. 20


the continuing support of the Minister of

Agriculture, Food and Rural A�airs, Leona

Dombrowsky, as a guest speaker. Minister

Dombrowsky gave an informative speech

that encouraged the growth of the agricultural

and tourism industries through the

development of culinary tourism in Ontario.

With the premise that food is the foundation

of our culture, culinary tourism experiences

o�er both locals and visitors to the city

of London and Middlesex County the opportunity

to taste our multiculturalism and

unique culinary identity along their journey.

Building relationships among growers and

producers, farmer’s markets, chefs and

restaurateurs facilitates the development of

new culinary tourism experiences and ensures

a sustainable local food culture.

BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known local chef, culinary

instructor and former restaurateur.He is both a Contributing

Editor and “Food Writer at Large” for eatdrink, and he

shares his thoughts and opinions on a wide spectrum of

the culinary beat.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 9


�e Church Key Bistro-Pub

Open Up To A Heavenly Experience

By Sue Moore

Pubs are a longstanding institution in

Britain, and as a result, people have

some very de�nite expectations of

what a pub should be. Depending on

the region and sensibility — and to a lesser

extent the age demographic of the customers

— a pub can be a convenient place to enjoy

a few drinks and meet friends, a dependable

spot where wholesome, quality food is

consumed regularly, or in some cases, one’s

“local,” where family celebrations and o�ce

parties routinely unfold.

Combine all of these positive notions —

and forget any others that you might have

(based on Coronation Street, or worse still,

lamentable pub adventures from your past

involving sawdust on the �oor or a “Gents

Only” sign outside), and you will have a

good picture of what �e Church Key Bistro-

Pub on Richmond Row is all about.

�e Church Key has only been open since

May, yet there is an underlying sense of heritage

and belonging already palpable as soon

as you enter — perhaps because the building

itself, previously occupied by Copper�eld’s,

and for many years prior by the celebrated

Bon Appetit, was built in the late 1800s. �e

Church Key’s name is a witty allusion to both

their location (heavenly neighbours include

both St. Paul’s Cathedral

and the nearby St.

Peter’s Basilica) and to

the old fashioned pretwist-top

bottle opener

of the same name.

With over four decades

of food industry

experience between

them, both restaurant-

and bar-related,

owners Vanessa and

Pete Willis (one of

London’s most wellknown


have a clear vision of

what they mean to

The back corner at The

Church Key, with a view of

the neighbouring Cathedral

Church of Saint Paul

achieve here: a

pub to be sure,

but a top level,

consistently �ne

dining experience

as well. At

the heart of this

philosophy is

a thinly veiled


and drive to get

it right. “I’ve been told that you can’t please

all of the people all of the time,” Vanessa

observes with a smile, “but you still have to

keep trying every single day.” A commitment

to using seasonal and locally sourced ingredients

— organic when possible — and a diverse

menu to present “the best of the best”

are both part of this process. �e Church Key

cures all their own meat, including a stellar

corned beef, and they also produce their

own smoked salmon. A duck Andouille sausage

and the immensely popular duck breast

bacon are also house-made.

�e interior of the building has undergone

a thoughtfully conceived and extensive

renovation. With a long bar in dark wood

�anking one side of the room and a series of

good-sized tables and plump seating as you


issue no. 20

progress into the restaurant itself (part of the

wall has been exposed to reveal the brick),

the result is a warm, understated elegance

lie’s that Cafe evokes the feeling of an Oxonian common

room. A steady undercurrent of traditional

blues and jazz adds another strata of

sophistication. �e service sta� is friendly

and attentive without hovering. Outside, a

H chic patio can easily seat 45.

Vanessa Willis’s �rst choice for Chef, hav-

e ing worked with him

t 24, at 2009 �e Tasting Room in

London , was Michael

Anglestad. He brings

a hefty twenty years

of experience, and

clearly understands

the notion of fusing a

pub atmosphere with

elegant dining. As a

result, although there

is plenty of traditional

pub fare on the menu, This dish, unpretentiously called “Stuff in Pots,”

at very reasonable

consists of a trio of potted preserves: duck & pistachio

prices, you will also pate, Moroccan vegetable puree with hummus, and

�nd that each and ev- shrimp and crab spread with clarified butter — all

ery o�ering has been intended to be spread lavishly on toast.

polished and thoughtfully

remastered. “�e Church Key Burger,”

for example, features the addition of Stilton

cheese and tomato jam; and with the obligatory

“Ploughman’s Plate,” you will �nd a

�rst-class assortment of English cheeses

accompanied by pickled quail eggs and

duck breast bacon, as well as the anticipated

Branston pickle. Anglestad’s version of the

Ploughman, according to one industry insider,

has been called the best item currently

on any menu in the entire city, in terms of

value, quality and presentation.

Moving away from the Pub Fare section,


Monday to Saturday

11:30 AM to 3:00 PM


Last Friday of the month



the menu boasts a variety of other choices for

diners both bold and shy, including Salmon

Wellington served on a tomato tarragon

béchamel, oven-roasted Pork Tenderloin with

a mild chili rub, and Rack of Lamb crusted

with pepita (ground pumpkin seeds) and

served with a cranberry champagne sauce.

On the day of my visit, my lunch included

a celestial Cheese and Onion Tart — like

a savoury galette — and the experience

was akin to being

introduced to the

aristocratic cousin of

the “Cheese Pasty,” a

regular feature in pubs

throughout Northern

England. I also

sampled the soup — a

velvety leek and potato

— which was outstanding

and included

the addition of tender

house-smoked bacon.

Sunday Brunch — a

new and imaginative

menu is o�ered each

week — is excellent

value at a �xed price

and shows o� Anglestad’s innovative and

evolved style: perfect for those who are ready

for an elevated alternative to traditional

bacon and eggs. Past examples of brunch

items include an oven-roasted potato and a

smoked salmon rosti with poached egg, and

a melon and cucumber salad served with a

sambuca vinaigrette. Pastry chef Cli� Briden

prepares his fresh-baked o�erings for the

brunch in the wee small hours of Sunday

morning. Be forewarned: those seeking

a bacon butty or anything stacked on an

English mu�n need not apply.


731 Wellington Street

(Just South of Oxford)

London ON


DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 11

�e appearance of more than one

authentic curry dish on the menu is interesting,

since outside of an Indian restaurant,

curry is notoriously di�cult to

procure here as a late-night snack. Good

to note is that the kitchen at the Church

Key stays open late, so such lager-induced

cravings are easily satis�ed.

And speaking of beer, there’s plenty

of it here; and most notably you can

sample Fuller’s London Pride, the number-one

selling premium ale in the UK.

�ere are craft brews to choose from,

such as Upper Canada and Mill Street,

as well as more traditional, classic o�erings

such as Guinness.

Set-price wine-tasting dinners —

which may well evolve into beer-tasting

dinners — are currently in the planning

stages and could soon be o�ered once a

month. �e atmosphere at �e Church Key

would also lend itself perfectly for book

club meetings and post-Christmas-shopping




The Church Key bar

The Church Key is located

directly across from the Grand Theatre

All in all, the Church Key is getting it

right. Londoners are discovering — and

are wildly appreciative of — its ambience,

professional sta�, quality of the food, and

real value for money. And as Pete Willis

remarks, they are managing to “live

the dream” every day.


�e Church Key Bistro-Pub

476 Richmond Street, London


hours of operation

sunday & monday: 11 a.m. to midnight

tuesday to thursday: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

friday & saturday: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

SUE MOORE is a freelance writer who also works in

the London Public Library system. She lives in London

with her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs

and cats.



By Bryan Lavery


still love a great hamburger

or a big, juicy steak, even

though I’ve been trying

to cut down on my red

meat consumption. trü on King

Street used to make a superb

mini-hamburger with foie gras that melted

in your mouth, and you could order it at the

bar until midnight. Waldo’s on King makes

a truly outstanding burger with organic beef

from Field Gate Organics, which is served

with generous garnishes and condiments.

I swear it is the best hamburger in the city,

hands down. Chancey Smith’s Steak and

Seafood House has always been a carnivore’s

dream because of its great steaks.

Chancey Smith’s also has its own delicious

½-lb beef burger, and the twist here is it

comes with a suggested beer pairing: Cameron’s

Auburn Ale, Paulaner, #9 IPA or India

Pale Ale. Chancey’s also has a more upscale

½-lb. bu�alo (read American bison) burger,

stu�ed with short rib meat and served with

mushrooms, smoked provolone, bacon,

roasted onions and tomato relish, for $17.99.

Suggested beer pairing: Aventinus Doppel

Bock, IPA or Belgian Dubbel. For an appetizer,

the grilled sirloin steak with roasted

bacon-wrapped goat cheese, greens and

mustard vinaigrette for $10.99 is a standout.

Recently, while researching London’s

culinary history, I came across

a photograph of fruit vendor

Chancey Smith posed in front

of his market operation on

Market Square at Market Lane.

�e photograph taken in 1915

(which you can also see in the

dining room) is just a few feet

from the eponymous restaurant

of today, owned by his

great-grandson, the local restaurant/bar

entrepreneur and

raconteur Mike Smith.

Chancey Smith’s is a destination

steakhouse, just one

issue no. 20

Hats o� to Chancey!

Chancey Smith’s Steak

and Seafood House


part of the Mike Smith empire, where you

know for certain you can get a damn good

steak and a perfect martini with good quality

olives, or a decent glass of wine. Mike Smith

is tongue-in-cheek on the surface (his corporate

umbrella motto: “Is this any way to run a

restaurant?”), but he is seriously committed

to the local hospitality scene and to London

in general. Smith is also the owner of Joe

Kool’s, the irreverent, popular restaurant and

bar that has been a landmark on Richmond

Row for over a quarter of a century, as well as

Fellini Koolini’s, Jim Bob Ray’s, the Runt Club,

and more recently, P Za Pie.

. Smith was one of the early members of

the MainStreet London board of directors.

He is a fan of creative cities and always brings

back interesting ideas and insights from his

travels. Smith has been a relentless proponent

of both Tourism London and the revitalization

of downtown London. So much so that

two years ago, MainStreet London honoured

Smith with its Downtown Champion award,

highlighting his signi�cant contributions to

making downtown better, through not only





Chancey Smith’s, but also his support and networking

on behalf of the downtown. Smith’s

commitment to this city extends to the Clean

and Green event, an annual spring cleanup



and Joe Kool’s Manager, Ron Scarfone, started

in 1995. Over the years, it evolved into a downtown

initiative and has built a lot of momentum

since then, catching on across London

and attracting a broad base of both public and

private support.

Milos Kral (former longtime Marienbad/Chaucer’s

manager) is at the helm of

Chancey Smith’s and it shows. Vivacious

Assistant Manager Michelle Novackas is

also an asset: professional, knowledgeable

and gracious. Longtime sta� members Nick

Farmer and Deb Denton add a certain je ne

sais quoi, good humour and comfortable

familiarity to the proceedings.

Chancey Smith’s still o�ers diners that

“big city feeling,” while maintaining all the

romanticized charm of a Chicago-style

chophouse. �e attention to detail of the

modern interior marks a departure from

the ubiquitous, corporate, cookie-cutter

steakhouse décor seen elsewhere. �e feeling

is not stando�sh or overly ingratiating.

Chancey’s bar re�ects the �air and re�ned

style of its classic dining room, but with a

more relaxed, down-to-earth ambience. A

large mural made of ten separate panels designed

by local artist Ronald Stanley Milton

adds vibrant colour and a fantastic sequence

of pleasing farmers’ market imagery over

the bar. Patrons also �nd themselves surrounded

by dozens of framed photographs

of historic London architecture, businesses

and personalities of former local prominence

that include fruit vendor Chancey

Smith. �e bar area is bright and welcoming,

with a bank of spotless windows, comfortable

tables and chairs, bar stools and yet

more cheerful, well-groomed sta� who contribute

to your sense of comfort.

�e dining room is nicely appointed

with dark stained wood surfaces, elegant

cove ceilings, black checkered tablecloths

covered with butcher paper, natural sunlight

in the day and the glow of a series of

contemporary arts and crafts styled light

�xtures at night. O� to the side of the dining

room, the open kitchen sports a copper

hood. A spacious outdoor patio/terrace

with classic black and white striped awning

wraps around the restaurant and overlooks

London’s King Street restaurant row and


We’re not just about fresh food!

Come see our amazing

vendors on the 2nd floor!

Open Saturdays, 8am-3pm

Dundas at Ontario St.

Eat Drink 1/4 page

2.375 x 3.935”


the market square. �e popular destination

bar and patio in season is a relaxing place to

lounge after work or before dinner. Its close

proximity to the John Labatt Centre makes

it a popular choice on event nights, both

before and after — as is Waldo’s on King,

its symbiotic but uniquely idiosyncratic

counterpart next door, with which Chancey’s

shares a large clientele of regulars.

One of the strongest tenets of North American

etiquette is that it is inappropriate to

View of the Dining Room

tell others they are not following proper etiquette.

However, etiquette considers it even

more impolite for men to wear baseball caps

(whether backward or forward), while dining

indoors. Despite the casual conviviality of

Chancey’s and its relaxed management style,

unless you are su�ering from an illness that

would cause embarrassment, ill-mannered

patrons should be encouraged to remove

their baseball caps in the dining room.

Chancey’s delivers with a well-chosen wine

range and o�ers the most comprehensive

issue no. 20


and impressive selection of beer in London.

As of this writing, there are 120 beers on o�er

and there will soon be a total of 17 draft lines.

Kral, who started in the hospitality business

in Czechoslovakia at �fteen, has built a reputation

as a “beer sommelier.” He has a history

of assembling solid beer lists showcasing

some of the �nest Canadian craft beers, and

a strong repertoire of Belgians and other

di�cult-to-�nd European beers. Working

alongside Chef Larry Cvetic and the kitchen

and �oor sta�, Kral pairs beers that complement

each entree item by listing them on the

menu. �is entails the necessity for a thorough

knowledge of the complexities of different

beers and how they work in harmony

with food pairings as a distinct and worthy

alternative to wine. While wine and food pairing

has been a common practice for years,

many people are realizing that beer, with its

diversity of unique �avours and aromatic

characteristics, can rival wine in its ability to

harmonize with food. With the growing stylistic

diversity in today’s beer scene, people are

discovering new ways that unique beer styles

enhance their culinary experience.

“A Trappist beer is brewed by or under the

control of Trappist monks. Of the world’s 171

Trappist monasteries, seven produce beer

(six in Belgium and one in Holland). Only

these seven authorized breweries are allowed

to label their beers with the Authentic

Trappist Product logo that indicates compliance

to the criteria set by the International

Trappist Association,” explains Kral.

�e dinner menu sports some interesting

items, but Chancey’s is primarily known for

its comfort food: excellent steaks, lobster tails,

and especially its fresh oysters on the half

shell. Roasted lamb shanks braised in Belgian

Abbey Ale are a new and welcome addi-

Another view of the Dining Room

tion to the menu, and on this occasion were

served with barely al dente root vegetables

and tru�e mashed potatoes. Suggested beer

pairing: Trois Pistoles, Rochefort Trappist Ale

(yummy), Le�e Brun and Belgian Abbey Ale.

Chancey Smith’s is a convenient downtown

choice for lunch, which they serve until 4 p.m.

�e menu o�ers a variety of sandwiches, salads,

appetizers and daily specials. I recently

had a commendable roasted chicken quesadilla

with onions, pepper, tomato, Monterey

Jack cheese and pico de gallo.

�is past October, the Covent Garden 15

Market celebrated 10 years in their new

premises. �is, the third incarnation of the

Covent Garden Market, opened its doors on

October 21, 1999. Designed by London architect

Russ Scorgie, the building’s architecture

in many ways pays tribute to the original

Covent Garden Market of 1853.

Chancey Smith’s keeps the spirit of the old

market alive and brings it forward for a modern

audience while honouring its traditions

and history — and faithful Londoners love

that nod to nostalgia.

Chancey Smith’s Steak and Seafood House

130 King Street, London


hours of operation

sunday to wednesday: 11 a.m. to midnight

thursday, friday & saturday: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Contributing Editor and

Food Writer at Large, and shares his expertise and opinion

on a wide spectrum of the culinary beat.



issue no. 20

�e Morrissey House

The Mo’ — “Where Every Day is Like Sunday”

By Bryan Lavery

Traditionally, the pub that people

frequent most often is referred to as

their local. Despite its etymology, the

fundamental nature of a local would

seem to be only partly geographical. A local is

the neighbourhood pub nearest to your home.

However, some denizens choose their local for

other reasons: proximity to their workplace,

convenience as an informal meeting place

for friends, the availability of a unique selection

of beers, innovative pub food offerings,

or perhaps the traditional pub game: darts.

More often than not, the idiosyncratic nature

of a local will lend itself to organized events

several times a month, ranging from pub quiz/

trivia nights to live music, as is the case of the

Morrissey House on Dundas Street.

Proprietor Mark Serré, a 12-year veteran

of the Spoke at UWO and an 8-year veteran

of GT’s, wants to make �e Morrissey House

feel like your living room. It’s a place where

you enjoy a sense of familiarity, knowing with

certainty that you will always run into a friend

— even if the friend is someone on sta�. “�e

Mo’,” as �e Morrissey House is often referred

to, is a natural hub for the inhabitants of its

immediate area and an important meeting

place where people can gather in a relaxed

and convivial atmosphere.

�e Morrissey,


opened this

past July,

has quickly


a popular





and innovative

pub fare

to clients

of a very

wide demo-


graphic. Situated in London’s downtown hotel

district, �e Morrissey House is hospitable,

intimate and friendly. �is neighbourhood

pub accommodates 120 seats in six rooms.

�e beer o�erings are comprehensive and the

bar features 18 draught taps and 18 a�ordable

wines by the glass. �e wines are mostly the

usual suspects, including a riesling from Niagara

and a merlot from British Columbia.

�is past summer, the 60-seat patio, set back

from the street, become both an industry and

neighbourhood hot spot, attracting its fair

share of foot tra�c and hotel business. In the

resurrected heritage yellow brick house once

occupied by the Oxford Arms, the main �oor

has undergone renovations and a signi�cant

refurbishment. Gone is the staircase to nowhere

at the entrance, and the front door has

been changed, making the entry more inviting

and accessible. �e premises have been recon-

�gured to improve capacity and tra�c �ow.

�e establishment o�ers plenty of choices in

terms of nicely upholstered, comfortable and

sturdy chairs and tables that a�ord plenty of

elbow room. �ere is colourful and thoughtprovoking

original art on the walls, which are

painted with warm colours, and many of the

building’s original heritage features are still in

evidence. Two rooms have �replaces, one for

ambience only, the other working and able

to provide solace during cold winter weather.

�e bar area itself has been redesigned and it

is divided into two distinct areas. Two of the

rooms can be closed o� by pocket doors, allowing

privacy for private parties.


Speaking of private parties, the fact that

Ceeps and Barney’s had their Christmas

party at �e Mo’ this November speaks to

the measure of industry credibility. �e

Morrissey House website emphasizes that

it is not an Irish pub, a British pub, a gastro

pub, a resto pub, a sports bar or a luncheon

spot…but a local. “We want to convey the

feeling that all are welcome, that we are

good neighbours and that we have a sense

of community. �e Morrissey is a living

space and we want people to feel like they

are going over to a friend’s house for a dinner

party. �e atmosphere is comfortable

and warm, the music is non-intrusive, and

the service is caring. �e idea is that guests

will walk in and know fellow guests as they

feel that same sense of community.”

Proprietor Mark Serré is also a savvy social

media strategist who has opened up a

two-way communication between himself

and the customer. �e Morrissey House

has a Facebook page, a WordPress blog application

on their website, and can also be

found on Twitter. �is has allowed Serré to

constantly update and inform his clients

about what �e Mo’ has on o�er, as well as

allowing feedback about what the pub is

doing well and what they can improve upon.

One side bene�t of this type of social media

strategy is the ability to conduct a free focus

group. Once you’ve opened up the lines of

communication, joined the conversation

and engaged your customers, there’s the

opportunity to create a larger community

around your brand — something the Morrissey

House seems to be successfully accomplishing

and part of what Serré’s business

plan has been predicated on.

Although I originally visited the Morrissey

House twice, just two weeks after it opened, it

had the feel of a well-oiled, smooth running

and long-established operation. �e menu is

contemporary with everything from ’Wichcraft

(read sandwich) and a variety of burgers,

to a jambalaya that was reminiscent of paella,

with shrimp, chicken, chorizo and �avoured

with piri piri. �e classic pub fare of �sh and

chips was in this instance fresh �aky haddock

served with the option of sweet potato fries.

Mo’sa Fe Salad, a mélange of chicken, corn,

black beans, tomatoes, mixed greens and

romaine lettuce with tortilla strips, mixed in

a spicy peanut vinaigrette, is a standout. �e

sausage plate with locally produced hunter,

chorizo and village sausages, bread, a duo of

The sausage

plate is great for

sharing (or not!)

cheeses and generous pots of dipping mustards

makes a great sharable appetizer. Chef

Ricardo brings a de�nite Portuguese in�uence

to many of the o�erings. �e website

cautions that they plan on making changes

to the menu on a regular basis, and this has

been my experience.

A Sunday breakfast with out-of-town

guests was a hit on two occasions. Our

server tells us that Eggs Benedict is the

popular choice. �e co�ee is good. �e desserts

are top-notch and homemade, just not

in their home. �ey are purchased from La

Pâtisserie Fine Cakes and Pastries in Kitchener.

Gelatos are locally produced by Coppa

di Gelato. Everyday is like Sundae, with


The Mo’s superb selection of single malt scotch whisky

strawberry, coconut and chocolate gelato

scoops, whipped cream, cherries, caramel

sauce, chocolate fudge, cashews and crème

anglaise, is fast becoming their signature

dessert o�ering.

When I go out to eat, if I have good food

and attentive service in a comfortable and

relaxing atmosphere, the potential exists to

become a loyal customer. When I make an

authentic connection with a professional sta�

member, the chef or the proprietor, I want to

be a faithful supporter of the business. When

my custom is appreciated, I always make a

issue no. 20

�e Morrissey House

359–361 Dundas Street, London



determined e�ort to promote

a new establishment.

Like most diners,

I’m also inclined to share

the experience with others.

By feeling valued, I

instinctively want to introduce

their business to

other patrons. �is is the

experience of the Morrissey


hours of operation

monday–wednesday: 11am to midnight

thursday: 11am to 1 am; friday: 11am to 2am

sat: 9am to 2am; sun: 9am to midnight

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Contributing Editor and

Food Writer at Large, and shares his expertise and opinion

on a wide spectrum of the culinary beat.


DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 19


Stratford Chefs


Where You Can Train With the

Best. Or Feast With Them.

By David Hicks

Are you sitting comfortably? �en

let’s begin the lesson: Tuna tartare

with spicy lemon-ginger

vinaigrette and sesame tuiles,

followed by a ragout of sweetbreads, mushrooms,

prosciutto and white tru�e oil, then

a third course of medallions of lamb with

anchovy-black olive sauce and artichoke

fritters, and �nally, orange risotto in brandy

snaps with passion fruit sauce for dessert.

If by now you’ve moved from relaxation to

subconsciously squeezing your thighs, your

inner foodie will thank you for discovering

that this four-course indulgence is just one

of dozens o�ered by the region’s worst-kept

dining secret, the Stratford Chef School.

School? While a far sigh from cafeteria fare,

this is actually a student “lab” served in the

rooms of Stratford’s �e Old Prune Restaurant

on bone china and linen table cloths,

with aperitif, paired wines and tea or co�ee.

And at a prix �xe of $60, all in, you could afford

to cab it back to your B&B.

�e only catch, besides reserving

in advance, is that, despite your

euphoria, you must objectively

grade the assignment in a brief

survey, from the maitre d’s introductory remarks

and promptness of the service, to the

appearance, taste and aroma of the food.

Seriously, the feedback is not just a

gesture — it’s an important aspect of the

training that the students receive at a gastronomic

institution that is building an

international reputation. In fact, you’ll see

one of the School’s Founding Directors and

hands-on faculty members, James Morris,

dining at a nearby table and �lling in an

evaluation form too. Personal attention is

such a part of the School’s ethos that Morris

typically eats and evaluates �ve weeknight

dinners a week, plus two three-course midweek

luncheons, throughout the four-month

The lead chef, whether a second-year student or a culinary

star like Riccardo Camanini, presides over every aspect of a

Stratford Chef School dinner.

semester. (How he maintains his trim frame

mysti�es both sta� and patrons.)

Morris, who is also the proprietor of

Stratford’s renowned Rundles Restaurant,

teamed up, in 1983, with fellow restaurateur

Eleanor Kane, co-owner of �e Old Prune, to

create a chef’s academy for the theatrical o�season,

with a vision to help cultivate “a distinctly

Canadian food culture.” A lofty ideal,

but between Kane’s contagious energy and

Morris’ cool acumen, the School launched

with half a dozen students, and has graduated

nearly 500 in its 25 years of operation.

�e School is a government accredited,

private, not-for-pro�t educational

institution, and the goal of the

two-year course is to produce

top-quality culinary professionals.

Witness the school’s 100 percent

graduate placement rate.

Not that there aren’t other colleges out

there with solid programs and commendable

results, says the School’s Executive Di-

0 0 0

rector, Kimberley Payne. “But this program

is a di�erent education in signi�cant ways.”

First, there’s the rigour. “We seriously

screen for students who intend to make a career

out of their passion for �ne dining,” says

Payne. “�is isn’t for someone looking for a

hobby or taking a year out — we’ve had engineers

and a pharmacist switch careers for

this. We even had a restaurant owner who

did the course so he could hire and manage

the very best people for his own restaurant.”

�e two-year program comprises two


four-month semesters running November

through February (versus the normal academic

three months), with related work

experience required during the intervening

eight months. Half of the student body (currently

numbering 71 with a capacity of 76) is

�rst-year, learning and working alongside the

returning second-year students. Fourteenhour

days are the norm, and there is attrition.

�e other point of di�erentiation is that

the School is operated and sta�ed by a dozen

working restaurant professionals. “�e curriculum

is based on [Auguste] Esco�er’s

philosophy of French dining and kitchen

organization,” says Payne, “but the School is

also geared to the chef/owner model of restaurateurs

who want to be passionately and

personally involved in their work.”

So the students are immersed in culinary

history, nutrition, restaurant design, purchasing,

sustainable farming practices, front

of house and table service, communication

and food writing, wine pairing, cheese making,

baking, pastries and desserts, cookery

and presentation from a broad range of nationalities

and regions… right down to how

to bend while picking up a stray fork.

�e students gain perspective on food

at every level and stage, including visiting

local sources and talking to producers,

vintners, brewers and livestock farmers. �e

fare served at the nightly dinners and twiceweekly

luncheons emphasizes fresh local

ingredients with a preference for organic.

“Occasionally, someone will question

strawberries in January or sea bass on the

menu, but we’re a landlocked culinary

school running fall through winter. But

nothing we serve is frozen or prepackaged —

you won’t �nd that in a 120-seat place.”

In addition to all the theory and class time,


Renowned chefs, such as Tuscany’s Riccardo Camanini,

come from around the world to spend a week teaching

teams of a dozen students prepare and serve

luncheons for up to 25 people on Wednesdays

and Fridays, and larger teams rotate to

prepare the dinners for as many as 60.

For the three-course luncheons, the

menus span classic bistro to nouvelle cuisine,

tapas, southeast Asian and Indian.

Every station is manned by students, and in

addition to personally checking every plate

before it leaves the kitchen, the lead student

chef visits each table to meet the guests

and answers questions. Add a glass or two

of wine and a co�ee, and Wednesday afternoon

never looked and felt so good.

�e nightly dinner series begins with Culinary

Repertoire menus of Chefs School favourites,

for example, Salmon and Tuna Tartare;

Salad of Curly Endive, Bacon and Roquefort;

Grilled Leg of Lamb with Moroccan Ratatouille

and Rosemary Aioli; Iced Chocolate and Coffee

Mousse with Co�ee Granita.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 21

�e evenings then transition to a series of usually more �exibility to get into the luncheons.

North American and international chef menus “In addition to practical training for the

borrowed from well-known gastronomers,

estaurant such as Equipment chef Normand & Supply Laprise, CO from Montre-

students, we really hope that our guests will

learn from the experience,” says Payne. “I

al’s “Relais & Chateaux.”-designated La Toqué! encourage people to come and try some-

restaurant. On his menu: Duck Tartare with thing they wouldn’t normally chance order-

Tarragon Pickled Golden Beets and Fingerling ing — you might discover that you like lamb

4 H

Potato Chips; Pan-Seared Scallops with Fresh

Cod and Leek Brandade and Lemongrass

after all. If you don’t normally order �sh, you

can a�ord to try it at these prices.”

Infused Yellow Pepper Juice; Roasted Leg of Interest piqued? Here’s how it works.

iane Venison with Dates, Almonds, Potato Galette

ept 28, and REV Roasted Sept Salsify; 29 and Chocolate Brioche

with Creamy Manjari Chocolate, Clove Ice

�ree-course luncheons: Stratford Chefs

School Luncheons happen most Wednesdays

Cream and Port Reduction. All executed, and Fridays, from November through Febru-

wine-matched and served by student teams. ary (check the calendar and menus online)

Midway through the semester, some of and served at Pazzo, 70 Ontario Street. Guests

the students’ favourite days and evenings are are asked to arrive at 11:45 a.m., and lunch �n-

spent with visiting chefs. Where menus on the ishes by 1:30 p.m. Capacity is 25 people. Cost

School calendar tagged with surnames like

“Stadtländer” and “Kennedy” will sell out in

is $27 ($35 for two special Christmas menus)

and includes wine, tea and co�ee.

(literally) minutes, there’s a roster of 15 guests

from �ne restaurants who come to work with Four-course dinners: Monday to Friday, late

the students. “�e School’s repu-

October through February, the

tation is now such that we have RECIPE ONLINE Culinary Repertoire Dinners ($47),

chefs lined up to come and spend A Stratford Chefs School North American and International


a day instructing. We just can’t

Dinners Series ($60), two special

accommodate all of them,” says Purée Palestine Christmas dinners ($74), and the

Payne. “So we not only consider (Jerusalem Artichoke Soup) Guest Chef dinners ($100) are all

their culinary reputation but their

Click HERE on the served at �e Old Prune, 151 Albert

teaching skills — the students rate Digital Edition online

Street, 6:30–10:00 p.m. Beverages

the instructors too.”

included. Many menus are posted,

Special attention is given to four week- some not until con�rmed with the guest chefs.

long stints by internationally known chefs

considered to be rising stars in the culinary

world. �is year, they’re �ying in from Australia,

Italy, India and Denmark to teach in

the kitchen and supervise dinners. (Last year

there were four Michelin-starred chefs in the

Stratford Chefs School


School’s kitchen.)

DAVID HICKS is a branding consultant in the Strat-

Understandably, reservations are essential ford area with (praise God) a high basal metabolic rate.

(call 519-271-1414), earlier is better, and there’s You can reach him at




ser ving the industr y since 1944

Shop like a chef!

Wholesale Prices on Complete lines

of equipment, cookware, china, glassware,

stainless serving pieces and much more!

Open to the Public Mon-Fri 8am-5pm

Sat 10am-1pm

234 William St., London, 519.438.2991,

22 issue no. 20


Stratford is

more than

great theatre.

“I made a delicious discovery: Stratford has a culinary obsession.

And, for me, �nding what I call a ‘food town’ is a rare and

magni�cent t hing . .. You’ve got a place that feeds all the senses.”

— Marion Kane, Food Writer (

Details and menus online

Gift certificates available


Join us for lunch or dinner

A remarkable culinary experience

Reservations 519.271.1414

Stratford Chefs School | Eat Drink Mag | December 2009 | 4.875” x 1.905”

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 23



Lucan’s �e

Stu�ed Zucchini

Deli - Bakery - Cafe

By Melanie North

Irene and Tony Demas, owners of the

Wilberforce Inn in Lucan, �rst met 37

years ago in London. Irene had just

�nished school and Tony was working

in real estate. He had just bought an old,

abandoned restaurant he planned to renew,

and o�ered Irene a job as hostess. �e partnership

sparked immediately. �ey not only

fell in love with each other, but with the

restaurant business. Irene learned to cook,

and Tony developed his interest in wines.

Together they opened what was one of the

�rst exclusively ethnic restaurants in London,

a radical notion back then. It was called

�e Villa and served authentic Greek food.

Twenty or so years later, they migrated

north to Lucan and in 1999 opened their

�ne dining restaurant, �e Wilberforce Inn.

�ey built a special place there. Almost 80%

of their clientele are regulars. As Irene says,

“We feel we are welcoming them into our

own home. Our customers may come in as

strangers, but they leave as friends.”

Tony developed one of the �nest wine cellars

in Ontario, with over 900 bottles of 150

varieties. And while he manages the front of

the house, Irene still focuses on the kitchen.

She has planted her own garden for the restaurant,

with tomatoes; herbs such as basil, sage,

parsley and tarragon; and edible �owers: nasturtiums,

violets, pansies and calendula. Many

of the seeds she planted she bought in British

Columbia at the illustrious Sooke Harbour

House, a restaurant that inspired her by growing

their own organic produce.

Irene’s latest endeavour is �e Stu�ed

Zucchini, just up the street from �e Wilberforce,

and next door to Lucan’s famous Area

Heritage and Donnelly Museum. �e museum

has exponentially increased Lucan’s

tourism business. In addition, Irene says,

“I always had a lot of requests for take-out

food. �e Wilberforce Inn is �ne dining and

issue no. 20

Irene Demas


many people equate that with dressing up

and making reservations. �e Stu�ed Zucchini

is more grab and go, or grab a quick

lunch. People want healthy meals and the

demand was there.”

Irene’s goal is to buy local and organic as

much as possible. All baked goods are made

on the premises. Dishes such as chicken

pot pie, quiches, lamb shanks, moussaka

and stu�ed peppers, as well as soups, sandwiches

and salads, are all made fresh. Irene

sources her vegetables from Devlaeminck’s

Farm just north of Lucan, and apples from

Crunican’s further south on Highway 4.

Artisanal breads from Quebec’s Premiere

Moisson are baked on the premises. You can

buy whole loaves of everything from organic

�axseed to sourdough walnut, country-style

round and olive

fougasse (the

French version

of the Italian

focaccia bread).

Irene also sells

all natural and

naturally dried

pasta by Maria’s


Noodles, based in

Kitchener. Some

of the selection

includes organic

spelt pasta, red

lentil or chickpea

pasta, and vegetable

mix rotini.

She and Tony also


import a selection of olives, olive oils, wild

mountain spices and teas from Greece, their

homeland. Deli meats are from Metzger’s in

Hensall, duck from Everspring Farms, and

C’est Bon goat cheese from St. Mary’s.

�e Stu�ed Zucchini provides one-stop

shopping. You can grab a bite there or take

meals out, or you can buy deli meats and

cheeses and breads, a litre of homemade

chicken or beef stock, and even Irene’s

homemade preserves that colourfully line

the handmade Amish cupboards from Lucan

Architectural Salvage. Choose from jars of

Arkona sweet cherries in brandy or calvados,

or yellow cherries in brandy. �ere are lots of

prepackaged holiday gift baskets to choose

from, as well as a catering menu for small or

large parties. Christmas dinners can be ordered

ahead of time to save you all the work

and leave you time to relax in front of the �re.

With its rough plaster walls and warm

atmosphere, �e Stu�ed Zucchini is a great

reason to take a short drive north of the city,

unwind and enjoy some of the treats at this

cozy café.

�e Stu�ed Zucchini

175 Main Street, Lucan


hours of operation

monday–friday 10-7

saturday 10-5, sunday 11-3

Wilberforce Inn

161 Main Street, Lucan


MELANIE NORTH is the Editor of CityWoman




issue no. 20

Honey, Honey

A Visit to Ferguson Apiaries, near Hensall

By Jane Antoniak

True fact: bees don’t bite”, jokes beekeeper

Bill Ferguson. Actually, they

sting. Truth is, they don’t even seem

to do that to Bill. Standing with

him next to an active hive, I watch a little

nervously as he calmly inspects the combs

and urges me to get a closer look. “Just don’t

swat at them,” he cautions. “We know how

they are going to react. �ey go after your

motions, and also they are attracted to certain

smells — they don’t like perfumes or

deodorants.” I step back as I realize that I

am wearing at least one of the above.

But there’s no stepping back from enjoying

the Fergusons’ honey, on tap

at the Honey House located

on Highway 84 between

Hensall and Zurich in Huron

County. Velvety smooth

streams of golden goodness

pour from the taps as they

o�er samples of pumpkin

patch, basswood, buckwheat

and clover honey. I long for

a toasted English mu�n and

maybe some peanut butter.

Similar to a wine tasting,

Sherri Ferguson

each honey carries its own aroma and �nish.

No wonder the bees are cross when people

try to harvest their nectars!

Bill Ferguson starting keeping bees while

a high school student in Bay�eld back in the


early 1960s. He

worked for the

Haberer Brothers


in Zurich before starting his own operation

in 1967. He and wife Rosemary and their

children Sherri and Susan have grown it into

an 800-colony operation with more than 40

locations for their “supers” across Huron,

Perth, Middlesex and Lambton counties.

(Supers are the boxes in which the bees

store their honey. A deep super full of honey

can weigh close to 90 pounds.) “�e crops

grown in the area and the time of year determine

the type of honey

we produce,” says Ferguson.

“For instance, with ‘pumpkin

patch’ honey, the bees

pollinate large �elds of

pumpkins, over 100 acres.

�e farmer gets the pollination

and the bees get

some nectar.” �e result

is a delicious, mild, lightcoloured

honey. For those

of us who are used to buying

commercial honey,

this is huge positive jump in �avour and

texture. Some of the Fergusons’ honey runs

sweetly and some is creamed, so choose your

weapon: honey dipper or spreader.

Renting out bees to the farmers for

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 Bill Ferguson and his grandson William 27

attend to the bees, at Ferguson Apiaries.

pollinating pumpkins and apples is a key

part of their business. And so is the raising

and sale of bees and queens across North

America. �e second generation of Fergusons

has taken to producing more than just honey.

Sherri runs the retail arm of the Honey House

now, while Susan is a beekeeper. Both have

helped develop a line of “Skin Food,” which

is made and packaged on site, and includes

an all-natural lavender honey body cream.

It seems sticky at �rst touch but goes on

smoothly and without any oily �nish. �ey

also produce a delicious line of honey butters

in a variety of �avours, honey barbeque

sauces, and a honey chicken sauce, and

they are keen to share recipes with chefs.

�e Fergusons also make and sell beeswax

candles and natural bee pollen. Some

customers buy the combs as a treat to chew

on — it makes a natural, digestible chewing

gum. Other people spread it on toast — it is a

naturally occurring wax, which some believe

to be a mild laxative.

Honeycombs are brought to the Honey

House for extraction with automated equipment,

and the honey is stored in barrels,

allowing for sale year round. �e Fergusons

produce, on average, seven varieties of

honey, including capping honey and spring

and fall honey.

�eir products are sold at the Honey

House on �ursdays to Saturdays, or you can

pick them up in the London area at Unger’s

in Hyde Park, Doris Produce at the Covent

Garden Market, and Crunican’s on Highway

4, just north of the city.

If you are interested in more information

about the sweet business of honey, you can

join serious beekeepers like the Fergusons,

as well as general hobbyists, at meetings of

the Ontario Beekeepers Association, which

has numerous chapters in our region.

As for me, I now like to say, “Pass the

honey, honey” over the breakfast table!

Ferguson Apiaries

Highway 84/Zurich-Hensall Road


Ontario Beekeepers Association

JANE ANTONIAK is a writer and owner of Antoniak

Communications in London. She is now claiming to be a

bit sweeter, too.


r’s Farm

issue no. 20

Dine • Shop • Stay • Play

Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast

Gobble up the goodness,

the festive season is coming!

Order Your Fresh Turkey

or Roast for The Holidays


“On the way to the lake” Highway 83, Dashwood Road


LCBO Agency & BEER STORE Retail Partner

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 29

Gift & Fashion Boutique

Luxury Guest Guest Suites

Company Name: The Red Pump Inn

Ad Size: 1/4 Page Horizontal

Date: 11/20 /08

Gourmet Fine Dining




Lunch & Dinner

Wed.–Sun. until

New Year’s Eve

Bayfield,ON 519-565-2576


issue no. 20



Ontario’s West Coast





DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 31



issue no. 20

Charleston Cooks!

Discovering the Taste of The South

By Jane Antoniak

There’s a world of di�erence

between traveling south and traveling

to �e South: a mouthwatering

di�erence! Charleston, South

Carolina, with its unspoiled, historic setting,

warm temperatures and rich, culinary culture,

is certainly worth an extended weekend

escape for those who want more than

sun and sand on a holiday.

I traveled there this fall with �ve members

of my book club from London. While we

went expecting antebellum homes and crab

cakes, instead we discovered an interesting

world of southern hospitality, mixed in

with bourbon, bacon and a cooking school,

which left us satis�ed on a multitude of

levels. It was the perfect escape for a book

club whose members love to cook, travel,

explore and enjoy each other’s company in

a relaxed, yet thoroughly interesting, setting.

Charleston does indeed cook!

With direct �ights from London to Detroit

and then direct on a small yet speedy Lear

jet to Charleston, we were in the Southern

city by noon �ursday, starting our extended

weekend jaunt on a high note, ready to shop,

eat and visit! With an easy cab connection to

historic Charleston from the airport, we settled

in quickly at the uber-convenient, well-

Londoners Paula Smith, Jude Teskey, Kerri Lefebvre and

Susanna Hubbard Krimmer get chopping at Charleston Cooks!


Culinary Instructor Emily Kimbrough

equipped Embassy Suites hotel (337 Meeting

Street), which is located in the original Citadel

Military College in Charleston. �e hotel

is a grand restoration, and the building is on

the National Register of Historic Buildings.

It has many positive amenities, including an

outdoor swimming pool, �tness room and

the welcome concept of generous two-room

suites with a full hot breakfast every morning,

including made-to-order omelettes and

cooked oatmeal.

Embassy Suites is located at the top end

of the historic quarter, which is perfect for

walking some extra steps needed to burn

o� all those gourmet delights — especially

the pecan praline candies! �e hotel is also

located adjacent to Marion Square, which

on Sundays o�ers an impressive market with

high-end jewelry and a variety of interesting,

locally grown items such as peanuts, decorative

cotton stalks, and crepes.

Many visitors to Charleston start out with

a carriage ride. Our group took an hour-long

tour in a large horse-drawn carriage that can

carry about 20 people through the streets of

the historic old city. �is is an easy way to

get your bearings before heading out on foot

for the remainder of the weekend.

Our destination for the weekend was

Charleston Cooks! — a cooking school and

shop that is part of the impressive Maverick

chain of food and hospitality outlets in

South Carolina. Located in the heart of the

East Bay Street restaurant district, the cooking

school is a draw for passers-by, who gaze

through the large windows of the Maverick

Kitchen Store. Classes are o�ered several

times a day to visitors. We had booked a

private, hands-on group session in low-


country cuisine, the cornerstone of coastal

South Carolinian heritage. We were able to

pre-select our menu — which was helpful,

as members of the Book Club did not want

seafood or �sh. We settled on Apple Walnut

Salad with Bacon Vinaigrette, Corn Fritters

with Tomato Chutney, Sweet Potato and

Date Hash, Bacon Wrapped Pork Tenderloin

with Bourbon Sauce, and Chocolate Chess

Pie — or the locals say, “it’s jess pai”!

One of my book club traveling mates was

Susanna Hubbard Krimmer. She has been

to Charleston before, but this trip provided

her with new experiences. “�e people of

Charleston take great pride in their southern

hospitality. Food and its enjoyment with

new and old friends forms a huge part of

that hospitality and is evident in the choice

of a pineapple, used everywhere as a sign

of welcome. �e cooking school provided a

wonderful opportunity to experience both

the cultural and culinary aspects of lowcountry

cooking,” says Hubbard Krimmer.

Another member of the club, Janet Carr,

was also enjoying a subsequent visit to the

old South. She, too, found culinary tourism

a great experience in Charleston. “While I’ve

visited Charleston in the past, I discovered a

di�erent city than I was previously exposed

to. […] Before, all I saw was the history, excellent

cuisine and architecture, and during

this trip, in the company of great girlfriends,

I also discovered a wonderful world of shopping!

�e cooking school was very di�erent

from those I’ve attended in the past — the

instructor was able to relate to every level of

experience and was wise beyond her years

in culinary information.”

Emily Kimbrough was our culinary instructor.

She is the lead culinary instructor

at Charleston Cooks! and is a graduate of

Johnson and Wales University in food service

management and culinary arts. She set

us up at three cook stations and we were

invited to move freely between stations to

work on di�erent aspects of the menu. From

rolling out pastry to frying fritters to basting

with bourbon, our group enjoyed the learning

aspects of the course. Book club member

Kerri Lefebvre, an accomplished cook, says

she enjoyed learning new, simple tricks in

the kitchen, such as how to properly cut

an onion or how to sauté without stirring.

“�ese steps have already made my own

cooking easier. It was learning how to have a

lighter touch in the kitchen that I enjoyed —


the little tricks of the trade.”

After all our hands-on work was complete,

we enjoyed a generous-sized meal,

with wine. All were given the recipes to take

home, some of which have already been

tried again here in London. We also bought

local ingredients, such as grits for the corn

fritters — which certainly gave the security

scanners at Charleston airport

some pause as they scanned our

carry-on bags!

Charleston o�ers many excellent

dining establishments. On this

trip we enjoyed lunch at Sermet’s

Corner at 276 King Street (in the

heart of the shopping district) and

at Fleet Landing (186 Concord Street), on the

patio overlooking the busy industrial harbour.

Be sure to take a jaunt over to the nearby pineapple

fountain, a marvel, and a salute to the

symbol of welcome in Charleston.

We enjoyed dinner at Cypress (East Bay

Street), which also o�ers low-country cuisine,

although with a modern �air. It is the sister

restaurant to Blossom and Magnolias, both

popular dining spots. It is here, along East Bay

Street, where you can easily grab a ride in a

issue no. 20

Apple Walnut Salad With Bacon Cider Dressing


4-6 green apples, small dice

2 stalks celery, small dice

¾ cup walnuts, toasted

½ cup raisins or other dried fruit

Fresh lemon juice

½ cup cheese, such as blue, parmesan, or goat,

crumbled or grated

1 Combine the apples, celery, walnuts, and raisins



from Charleston Cooks!

Click HERE on the

Digital Edition at


two-person bicycle taxi — a wonderful openair

experience that allows you to zip along

through the market and down quiet back

streets in the warm evening air after dinner.

It is an a�ordable break from all the walking,

and is especially important for those in heels

who may �nd it more than challenging to

navigate the cobblestone roads.

Finally, if you’re looking

for a lovely break in the day, try

Baked (160 East Bay Street) for a

co�ee, slice of cake or any number

of other sinful delights. It’s an

excellent spot for a pick-me-up

while you rest from touring the

homes or shopping for yet another

must-have Southern fashion item.

For a real taste of �e South, consider a

long weekend in Charleston — where the

food and atmosphere really do cook!

JANE ANTONIAK is a journalist in London and a

devoted member of her book club (with Connie Atkinson,

Janet Carr, Susanna Hubbard Krimmer, Kerri Lefebvre, Karen

Nixon, Paula Smith and Jude Teskey), which has been

meeting monthly for more than a decade.

in a large mixing bowl. Toss with some fresh

lemon juice so the apples.

2 Toss salad with just enough of the bacon cider

dressing to coat the apple mixture. Top with the



bacon, 3 thick slices or 7 thin slices, diced

1 large shallot, diced

1 garlic clove, minced

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 35

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¼ cup cider vinegar

Olive oil, as needed

1 Place the bacon in a cold medium sauté pan over

medium-high heat. Do not stir until browning

can be seen in the bottom of the pan. Stir and

then allow the bacon to �nish browning.

2 Meanwhile, whisk all other ingredients, except

olive oil, together in a small bowl.

3 When bacon is brown, slowly drizzle the bacon

fat and bacon pieces into the vinegar mixture,

whisking constantly.

4 If the dressing is not thick enough, continue

whisking and slowly drizzle in olive oil, a little at

a time, until desired consistency. Season with

salt and pepper.

Sweet Potato & Date Hash

Serves 4-6

Olive oil

1 red onion, sliced

2 sweet potatoes, peeled and diced

½ cup bourbon

1 cup chicken stock

½ cup green beans cut into 1/2 inch segments

½ cup dried dates, chopped

½ cup pecans, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

1 Heat a saute pan over medium high heat. When

the pan is hot, add enough olive oil to generously

cover the bottom of the pan.

2 When the pan is hot, add the onions to the pan,

and sauté until onions are lightly browned.

3 Add the sweet potatoes to the pan. Cook until

the bottoms brown.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Add the bourbon

and allow the pan to stop simmering before

returning it to the heat. Cook over medium heat

until the pan is dry.

5 Add chicken stock and cook until sweet potatoes

until fork tender.

6 Add the green beans to the pan and cook until

al dente, about 2-3 minutes.

7 Stir in the dates, pecans, and thyme. Remove

from heat.

8 Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Chocolate Chess Pie


1 stick butter

1½ cups �our

Pinch of salt

Whole Milk

1 Place butter, �our and salt in a medium bowl.

Cut butter into the �our with a pastry cutter.

2 Add the milk one splash at a time and stir gently

until mixture is crumbly.

3 Scrape the contents of the mixing bowl into a

large piece of plastic wrap. Form a ball with the

dough using the plastic wrap.

4 Chill dough for 8 minutes.

5 Roll dough out into desired shape.


½ cup butter

2 ounces unsweetened or bittersweet chocolate,


2 tablespoons bourbon

2 tablespoons �our

issue no. 20

1 cup sugar

3 eggs

¼ teaspoon salt


1 Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

2 Place butter and chocolate in top of double

boiler, and melt over low heat stirring occasionally.

Remove from heat, and set aside to cool.

3 Place sugar, eggs, �our, bourbon, and salt in a

large mixing bowl. Whisk well to combine.

4 Add chocolate mixture to egg mixture, and

whisk until smooth.

5 Pour �lling into pie crust, and bake in preheated

oven until edges are browned, and �lling is

pu�ed and set (but still wiggly in the center),

about 30 minutes.


Add ½ cup chopped pecans to the �lling before

pouring it into the crust.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 37



“Change” seems to be the operative word in our

area’s current culinary conversation. In every

issue, we strive to bring you all that’s new and

di�erent (but still local and seasonal, of course!),

freshly harvested from our thriving grapevine.

If you or your business has news to share with

eatdrink readers, be sure to let us know.

Never one to rest on her well-deserved laurels,

the ever-creative Betty Heydon of Blackfriar’s

Bistro & Catering (

has taken over a satellite kitchen in the premises

once occupied by Chef Zaikia Haskouri, the

London Casbah (on Dundas Street, between

Clarence and Richmond). Haskouri joined

Heydon’s team of Jacqueline Shantz, Abby

Roberts and Julianna Guy last year. �ough the

space was primarily needed to meet the growing

demands for Blackfriar’s catering services, there

are plans afoot to also use the space for handson

cooking and team-building classes.

Dynamic duo Paul Harding and Jason

Schubert, the applauded chef/owners of �e

Only On King, have three of their recipes

featured in Cooking With Canada’s Best by

Karen Dubrofsky. All proceeds from the book

sales will be donated to the Kilee Patchell-Evans

Autism Research Group. Cookbooks are

available from �e Only, as well as at Chapters

book stores.

Gibb Design of London has created an exciting

re-design of �e Only’s website, which now

features online cooking demonstrations. Visit to see Schubert entertainingly

preparing Chicken Boudin, grilling a

leg of lamb at a barbeque, or foraging for exotic

mushrooms. Full-length versions of all segments

will be included on an upcoming DVD.



Joe and Diane Pritchard, of the ever-popular

Billy’s Deli (on Dundas at Talbot), have revised

their hours to better suit their loyal clientele. �ey

are now closed Mondays, but open Sundays from

9 a.m. to 2 p.m.. �e legendary breakfast-goddess

Brenda Bissett remains a much-loved constant

in the lives of early-morning diners.

Gozen Bistro and Grill, well established now

at Central Avenue, just west of Richmond, has

developed a following with a menu of authentic

Japanese Sushi and Korean specialties. �ey’ve

now opened a new location in the premises that

was recently occupied by Savvy and Scallions,

on Queens at Clarence Street.

Congratulations to Jill Wilcox and sta� at Jill’s

Table on King Street. �e renowned culinary

emporium (o�ering specialty foods, kitchenwares,

tablewares, cooking classes and gift baskets),

has just celebrated its 10th anniversary.

Waldo’s on King has recently presented a

revamped new menu that features Chef Mark

Kitching’s Braised Beef Short Rib Poutine

with Foie Gras and Goat Cheese. Restaurant

manager Joe Duby says it has been a strong

performer and worth a visit to hear the word

poutine pronounced at the bar with an Ottawa

Valley accent.

�e Bungalow Neighbourhood Hub’s proprietors,

Scot and Rosemary Crawford, Karl

and Pam Lansdowne, continue to do a brisk

business in the premises recently occupied by

North at Waterloo and Cheapside. �e menu

features a variety of thin-crust pizzas, gourmet

sandwiches and burgers. Check out their

website ( for further


Portuguese chicken a�cionados have a longstanding

tradition of going to London’s Hamilton

Road to satisfy their hunger for the heat of

piri piri. Rei Dos Leitoes (translation: King of

the Pigs), a popular hotspot at 706 Hamilton

“Always a three-cours

prix-�xe menu”



432 Richmond St. at Carling • London


After 6 pm

o� Queens Ave.


We service all major

household appliances.


Locally owned and operated franchise.


Road since 1994, recently opened a second location

in the Cherryhill Village Mall on Oxford

Street. �e new locale features the same menu,

with grilled chicken, steak, seafood and a variety

of specials competing with the famous pork as

diners’ favourites.

Tiago’s of London, in Covent Garden Market,

is the place to get Portuguese chicken, and

more, downtown. Gourmet sandwiches round

out the basic o�ering of Portuguese chicken.

In particular you might want to try the chicken

and goat cheese pressed sandwich. One of the

best o�erings at this restaurant has to be the

fantastic spicy olives that Tiago makes himself.

Speaking of Covent Garden Market, Chris Doris

of Doris Family Produce has not only been

supplying hard-to-�nd items like quince to local

chefs, but he is developing a line of olive oils.

His �rst foray into this �eld is his For the Love of

Garlic product, a garlic-infused olive oil.

Smith Cheese at Covent Garden Market is now

carrying Fifth Town Artisan Cheese. Speaking

with self-titled Milk Sommelier Dave Smyth

recently at the Ontario Culinary Tourism Summit,

we learned that Prince Charles sampled

the Bonnie & Floyd cheese from Fifth Town

while he was in Toronto. �e Prince liked the

cheese so much he turned to Minister Jim

Flaherty to see if he could spot him $10 to buy

the cheese. It was noted that the Prince and

Camilla also sampled some of the Monforte

Dairy selections at the Royal Winter Fair.

Gigg’s Grillhouse is opening soon in the space

formerly occupied by Honey Garden, at the

corner of Talbot and Carling Streets. �e building

owner, Mauro DeLaurentiis, is making his

�rst venture into the restaurant business with

much excitement and has made a number

of improvements to the interior. Chef Henry

Barthalt hails from Grand Bend, where he has

worked in recent years. �is will be a welcome

addition to the number of drinking and dining

establishments in the area — “an upscale roadhouse”

according to DeLaurentiis — and for

event goers at the John Labatt Centre.

Updating two recent cover stories, we’re happy

to report that Abruzzi has quickly established

itself as a hot spot in the local culinary scene.

Manager Karen Brown and Chef Josie Pontarelli

have earned enthusiastic kudos from local

diners. Rob Taylor’s much anticipated Braise

Food and Wine should be up and running by

the time you read this.

Richmond Row is set to come alive with the

new production of �e Wizard of Oz. Cast



2010 issue no. 20 39

and Lambton County


Blue Water



members have been spotted dining out at

nearby restaurant �e Tasting Room, and certainly

surrounding dining establishments, including

Garlic’s of London, Maggie’s Jazz and

Supper Club and �e Church Key, will be busy

entertaining patrons before the show.

Recently at the Downtown London annual

meeting, we heard guest speaker Robert Gibbs,

a retail planning specialist, give local businesses

tips on how they can improve their operations.

He told the audience that we have a number of

anchors and destination businesses that other

issue no. 20


cities would �ght for, and promised to bring a

lot of people back to London to show them what

we do well. �ere were a number of downtown

restaurateurs on hand to hear this talk. Attendees

had the opportunity to sample the food and

hospitality of the London Convention Centre.

Heading over to London East, we noted that

True Taco is now open on Dundas between the

Aeolian Hall and the East Village Co�eehouse.

�is is a third location for True Taco, which

also operates at Trail’s End and the Western

Fair London’s Farmers Market. Speaking of

Mexican food, Under the Volcano operates at

the Western Fair market, and one of our writers

notes that they serve excellent chicken �autas.

London’s Farmers Market is located in the

historic Confederation building on the Western

Fairgrounds, which started as a place for

local merchants to o�er their wares in 1927.

Dave Cook, owner/roaster of the Fire

Roasted Co�ee Company and manager of

London’s popular farmers markets (at Western

Fair, and seasonally at Masonville Mall) embraces

change and growth in notable ways. �e

Farmers Market at the Fair is seeing some major

changes: the roastery itself, which has been

operating out of premises in south London, will

soon be installed upstairs at the Confederation

Building, providing an opportunity for market

visitors to watch the process. Cook will also be

creating a stylish lounge, retail and meeting area

in this architecturally intriguing space.

A treasure trove of vendors and food purveyors

can be found here on Saturdays: some

of the regions’ best butchers, bakers and

candlestick makers. �e recently recon�gured

second �oor is also home to artists, artisans,

booksellers, and collectables and antique

dealers. (Sorry, there are some names we just

won’t drop). �ird anniversary celebrations are

scheduled for Wednesday, December 23, when

the market will be open to the public.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 41

La Chocolaterie Forrat and one of London’s

favourite chocolatiers, Marc Forrat, has

expanded to new locations in Windsor and

Hamilton. �e �agship location remains at

the Covent Garden Market, where customers

can watch the tru�es being made. Forrat also

retails his products at Remark Fresh Markets

at Oxford & Hyde Park Road. Check it all out

on his newly redesigned website,

Félicitations Marc!

�e East Village Co�ee House has overcome

those pesky problems with the phone connection.

You can reach the Co�eehouse at this new

number: 519-266-7584. If that’s too old school,

�nd them on Facebook: pages are up for both

the East Village Co�ee House and its sibling, �e

Briscoe Café, at 325 Wharncli�e Road South.

Here’s a save-the-date for February: Food

Fusion (Feb 18-28, 2010) will be encouraging

area restaurants and diners-out to support

Heart-Links, a London-based charitable organization

( concerned

with social justice in Peru. Participating restaurants

will o�er a special �xed-priced menu at

lunch and dinner. Look for more information

at, and at the London

Wine & Food show.

Darryl MacDougall is the new head chef at Timbers

Chop House, Wellington Road South. Many

in the industry know Darryl from his previous

position as Ontario Regional Manager for the Canadian

Restaurant Association for the past �ve

years. He received his chef training at the Windsor

Arms Hotel in Toronto. Timbers’ customers

can anticipate some exciting new changes and

additions to the menu in the new year!

Chef Je� Crump, whose recently published book

Earth to Table: Seasonal Recipes from an Organic

Farm is reviewed in this issue of eatdrink,

is coming to London! Crump will be delighting

visitors with his culinary skill on the kitchen

Welcome to Windermere’s Café,

where our unique character, charm and

distinctive natural setting are sure to

captivate you!

Reservations encouraged...


@ The Research Park


(Windermere at Western Road) • London

demonstration stage at 5 p.m., January 15, helping

to kick o� the London Wine and Food Show

(January 15-17 at the Western Fair). Chef Crump

will also be signing books at the eatdrink booth.

We expect all of you to drop by and say hello.

London’s busiest restaurateur, David Chapman,

has recently unveiled new menus at

both �e Katana Kafe and at his eponymous

David’s Bistro. When he posted his latest

installment of “A Cook’s Life,” (see page 62),

our memoirist also reminded us that David’s

always o�ers a three-course, prix-�xe menu.



Many of the best restaurants in Stratford stay

open in the theatre’s o�-season, and for many

of the shops in town it’s “business as usual” as

well. We know that Ruth Klahsen makes great

cheese at Monforte Dairy. But Monforte (www. is also o�ering a scrumptious

(and useful!) gift basket. It includes 750 g

Smoked Cheddar, 1 kg Perth County Mennonite

Summer Sausage, Monforte Crackers, 375 ml

Bauman Apiaries Honey, two handmade beeswax

candles and a Monforte Dairy apron. Cost

is $80 + $20 shipping, with all applicable taxes

included. �e o�er is good in Canada only.

�ere are several new taste sensations in Stratford,

perfect for gift giving or just enjoying over

the holidays. Rheo �ompson Candies (www. is well known

for their delicious mint smoothies. Now a new

complement, double chocolate smoothies, is

available for those who love the creamy texture

without the mint �avour. �is new candy has a

velvety, tru�e-like centre in a chocolate shell,

in both dark and milk varieties.

Local Ontario Herbal Tea, from Canada’s

Tea Sommelier, Karen Hartwick, is a unique

blend of 100% Ontario herbs. Tea and gift

packages can be ordered online at

At Chocolate Barr’s (www.chocolatebarrs.

com), a new mulled spice tru�e is now

available. A creamy dark chocolate centre,

�avoured with anise, orange, cloves and cinnamon,

is enrobed in milk chocolate and can

be identi�ed by a light dusting of silver luster.

�ese treats are available individually or custom

packed to your speci�cations.

Fred de Martines of Perth Pork Products

( supplies many

of the province’s best chefs with his heritage

pork. �is holiday season, he is o�ering a line

of Berkshire Pork gift boxes that can be ordered

online. Give the gift of pork!

Feeling the need to get away? Here are two

thoughts with a gastronomic bent:

Retreat to Foster’s Inn for one of their special

packages, which include suite accommodation,

Perth County Home-made Brunch, and dinner

at the Stratford Chefs School. For details and

reservations contact

�e town of Bay�eld celebrates the season

in style. �ey have lots of events, and if you

want to stay over, �e Little Inn of Bay�eld

has some tempting o�ers. Call 1-800-565-1832

or 519-565-2611, or go to

�is year Christmas at McCully’s is on the

weekend of December 12 & 13 from 11 to 3 pm.

Enjoy horse-drawn sleigh rides (or wagon

rides, depending on the snow), a visit in the

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 43


barn with all the animal friends, and Christmas

crafts and music, along with a visit with Santa

on his sleigh (and he’s giving out treat bags).

McCully’s Hill Farm is now on Twitter — so if

you like to Tweet, check them out!

Tuckey Farms of Exeter and the Optimist

Club of Middlesex London have teamed up to

raise funds for needy kids. Tuckey Farms has

made and bottled maple syrup in 500 ml gift

bottles, which the Optimist Club members are

selling as a fundraiser for club activities. �e

Club supports a free after-school program at

Northbrae Public School, which also includes

cooking activities. �e syrup is being sold for

$10 a bottle and can be purchased through club

members or by contacting club president Jane

Antoniak at

Neil Baxter, renowned both as a chef and as

past instructor and Master Chef at the Stratford

Chefs School, is holding a series of handson

workshops in the new year, at Rundles

Restaurant. For details and to register, go to or contact Chef Neil

Baxter at Rundles (519-271-6442).

After you’ve put away the festive gear, get out

your sporran and sharpen your dirk: Robbie

issue no. 20


Burns Day is coming! �e Waltzing Weasel

and �e Scots Corner in London, the Black

Dog Pub in Bay�eld, and FINE Restaurant in

Grand Bend will all be serving Robbie Burns

suppers in late January, as, no doubt, will

many others.

FINE is also hosting a New Year’s Day

Brunch called �e Breakfast Club. �e special

seating will include Matt Tuckey’s French Toast

— named after a popular customer — and a variety

of breakfast and lunch items such as Lobster

Pot Pie, Beef Short Ribs and Eggs Benedict,

all created by Chefs Erryn Shephard and Ben

Sandwith. Following the event, FINE will close

for holidays and re-open for their Robbie Burns

Supper on January 23.

* * *

To all of our readers, please remember that

throughout the year, but most poignantly at

this time, there are many of our neighbours

who could use a helping hand. Don’t know

where to start? Try the Ontario Volunteer

Centre, , or your local food

bank (in London at 519-659-4045, or http://

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 45


Earth to Table

Seasonal Recipes from an Organic Farm

Review and Recipe Selections By Jennifer Gagel

Every meal starts from the earth,

sometimes with a veritable chasm of

unsustainable practices in between

source and destination. Je� Crump,

Canadian slow food pioneer, has set out to

narrow the gap in Earth to Table: Seasonal

Recipes from an Organic Farm (Random

House 2009, $45).

Je� Crump is the executive chef at the

Ancaster Old Mill, a restaurant devoted to

food sourced locally and prepared to perfection.

Earth to Table re�ects his philosophy,

strongly in�uenced by food guru Alice Waters

and his time spent at her restaurant,

Chez Panisse, in Berkley, California. But he’s

�exible in his approach, too, citing certain

imports, such as vanilla, olives and �sh, as

items he cannot live without. Nor does he

shy away from the admission he also occasionally

partakes of burgers and fries. �is

book isn’t about turning people into “slowfood

hippies.” It’s about moving a little slow

food hipness into our relationship with what

we eat.

“What we set out to communicate is not

the de�nitive set of answers to all of the

questions surrounding our food culture, but

a year’s worth of our experiences as we did

our best to answer them for ourselves.”

Along with Bettina Schormann, the Ancaster

Old Mill’s pastry chef, Crump has put

together a

book from

which to


your own




personal philosophy towards

food that responds to burgeoning questions

and takes advantage of food that is practically

right next door, but obscured by supermarkets.

�ere is plenty for Londoners to choose

from locally. For charcuterie, Crump’s answer

to fast food, try Angelo’s, or Alicia’s Fine

Foods on Trafalgar (formerly Sikorski’s).

Atlantic Sea Fish Market (708 Hamilton

Road) is where I go Friday afternoons for

the freshest �sh in the city — and where

the sta� will discuss recipes and cooking

methods. Saturday mornings are well spent

at Trail’s End, �nding the authentic farmers

(not the resellers) who are ready to discuss

growing methods and bumper crops. Or visit

the vendors at one of London’s markets. My

personal favourite is Doris Family Produce

at Covent Garden Market, where Mr. Doris

once noticed me ri�ing through all his


fennel. He quickly took o� to the back to �nd

me the perfect sized bulbs to nestle inside

the succulent red peppers I wanted to roast.

And he’s always prepared to tell me exactly

what is at its peak and where it comes from.

Crump believes, “if the world were fair, we’d

have celebrity farmers.” And maybe celebrity

vendors, too.

Crump explains that adopting the slow

food mindset doesn’t have to be expensive.

“Start with basic but local seasonal produce

and perhaps a cheaper cut of meat from

a good butcher, and you’re better o� than

you would have been with something more

convenient but less nutritious.” Or less

�avourful. Superior taste is, for many,

the slow food philosophy’s most alluring


Tempting photos by Edward Pond

showcase the recipes, �elds, and farmers

that make up this cutting-edge ethical

movement. You’ll want to run to a

farm just as much as you want to race

to the kitchen. Some of the recipes look

extensive on �rst glance but are actually

just exceptionally detailed, sure to deliver

succulent results every time, while

still being suitable to experimentation.

Crump’s pairing suggestions make it

easy to put together a menu worthy of a

chef and provide a springboard to make

your own �avourful combinations.

�e essays are just as inspiring and detailed

as the recipes. �e seasons are placed

in context by what is happening on the farm,

linking our joy of food to the place where

it comes from, and in context to what is

achievable at home. Winter is the perfect

time to plan an herb garden, even if only

pots or sunny windowsills are available for

now. Discussions about modern methods

issue no. 20


of food production are di�cult ones, but

Crump handles them with honesty and integrity.

Earth to Table is a complete journey

through all aspects of food culture.

More than a just cookbook, this is a transformation

of mindset that culminates with

luscious, healthy recipes on the table.

JENNIFER GAGEL can be found cooking in anyone’s

kitchen who will let her. She can be reached via

The following recipes are courtesy of Jeff Crump, from

Earth to Table, Random House, 2009.

Braised Short Ribs

Chefs love working with gnarly cuts of meat. They

often make the most �avorful, succulent dishes,

perfect for a cool evening.

6 beef short ribs (about 7 lbs or 3–3.5 Kg)

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper


½ cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 cups (500 mL) chopped onions (½-inch chunks)

1 cup (250 mL) chopped carrots (½-inch chunks)

1 cup (250 mL) chopped celery (½-inch chunks)

3 cloves garlic

2 dried bay leaves

2½ (625 mL) cups local hearty red wine

1½ cups (375 mL) port

2 tbsp (25 mL) balsamic vinegar

6 cups (1.5 L) beef stock

Citrus Gremolata (recipe below)

Fresh bay leaves, for garnish

1 Season short ribs generously with salt and pepper.

In a large skillet, heat 3 tbsp (40 mL) of the oil

over medium-high heat until smoking. Add short

ribs, in batches, and cook, turning occasionally,

until a deep, rich golden brown on all sides, about

15 minutes per batch, adding more oil between

batches as needed. Using tongs, transfer ribs to

a large Dutch oven as completed; set aside. Preheat

oven to 325°F (160°C).

2 Reduce heat to medium and add the remaining

oil, onions, carrots, celery, garlic and bay leaves to

the skillet. Sauté until vegetables begin to caramelize,

about 5 minutes. Add to the Dutch oven.

3 Add wine, port and vinegar to the skillet, stirring

to scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of the

pan. Bring to a boil and cook, until reduced by

half, about 10 minutes. Add to the Dutch oven.

4 Add stock to the skillet and bring to a simmer.

Pour over short ribs. (The stock should just cover

the ribs; if it doesn’t, add more stock until the

ribs are covered.) Cover with a tight-�tting lid.

5 Bake until meat is very tender and yields easily when

pierced with a knife, about 2 hours. Using tongs,

transfer ribs to a serving platter and keep warm.

6 Strain liquid from Dutch oven into a saucepan.

Bring to a boil and cook until reduced by three

quarters, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with

salt and pepper. Pour over ribs and garnish with

Citrus Gremolata and fresh bay leaves.


3 tbsp (40 mL) minced fresh �at-leaf (Italian)


1 tsp (5 mL) �nely grated lemon or orange zest

1 medium clove garlic, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, combine parsley, lemon zest and garlic.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Make ahead:

Cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.)

Seasons Greetings

Stay Connected to the Farm!

Certi�ed Certi�ed Organic Chicken

Pastured Beef

Fresh Brown Eggs

42828 Shorlea Line, St. Thomas


phone to order and arrange pick up

48 issue no. 20


Roasted Fingerling

Potato Salad with Watercress

and Horseradish Dressing

Horseradish and potatoes have a real love for one

another; try some horseradish on french fries.

2 lbs (1 Kg) �ngerling potatoes, peeled

3 tbsp (40 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

3 tbsp (40 mL) dry white wine

1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh thyme leaves

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

2 bunches watercress (about 10 oz / 250-300 g),



¼ cup (50 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup (50 mL) sour cream

2 tbsp (25 mL) red wine vinegar

1 tbsp (15 mL) freshly grated horse-radish root

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

1 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). In a medium bowl,

toss potatoes, oil, wine, thyme and salt. Spread out

in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake until

very tender, about 40 minutes.

2 Prepare the dressing: In a large bowl, whisk together

oil, sour cream, vinegar and horseradish.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Make ahead:

Cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.)

3 Add warm potatoes to dressing and toss to coat.

Divide among 4 plates and top each with a handful

of watercress.


Bread and Butter Pudding

Serves 6

I serve this pudding as the dessert for our Sunday

suppers all winter long. I bake it in a cast-iron frying

pan and serve it steaming. The aroma of the

sizzling maple syrup wafts through the whole restaurant.

It may be a simple dish, but this is a dessert

that really turns guests’ heads.

¼ cup (50 mL) dried currants

¼ cup (50 mL) dried cherries

16 cups (4 L) cubed day-old bread (preferably

real-butter croissants or brioche)

6 eggs

1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar

3 cups (750 mL) whipping cream (35%) cream

1 tsp (5 mL) ground nutmeg

1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange

¼ cup (50 mL) chopped pecans, toasted

¼ cup (50 mL) maple syrup

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Place currants and

cherries in a bowl and cover with hot water. Set

aside for between 10 minutes and an hour.

2 Place bread cubes in a shallow 16-cup baking dish

and set aside.

3 In a bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar. Stir in

cream, nutmeg, vanilla, lemon zest, lemon juice,

orange zest and orange juice.

4 Drain dried fruit and sprinkle evenly over bread

cubes, along with pecans. Pour in egg mixture,

making sure bread is completely saturated. Cover

with foil.

5 Place baking dish in a large roasting pan, place in

oven and pour enough hot water to come halfway

up sides of dish. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove foil

and bake until golden and pu�ed, about 15 minutes.

Pour maple syrup over top. Let stand for at

least 20 minutes before serving.

Je� Crump is o�ering a

cooking demonstration at

the London Wine & Food

Show, January 15 at 5pm,

and will be autographing

copies of Earth to Table at

the eatdrink booth.



issue no. 20

A Year in Lucy’s Kitchen

Seasonal Recipes and Memorable Meals

Review by Jennifer Gagel

Lucy Waverman is an extremely

busy woman. She writes weekly for

�e Globe and Mail, has written

nine cookbooks, is the editor of the

LCBO’s Food & Drink magazine, appears

regularly on radio and television, reviews

restaurants and she even twitters. As well,

she entertains often and holds family festivities

dear. How does she do it?

“I invite you to stay in my kitchen through

an entire year, as I prepare feasts and simple

meals to entertain friends and celebrate

family occasions,” writes Waverman in her

latest book, A Year in Lucy’s Kitchen: Seasonal

Recipes and Memorable Meals (Random

House Canada, October 2009, $35).

Lucy seizes opportunities as they arise.

Whether it’s tree-ripened plums from an

orchard just outside the city as summer

closes or Seville oranges from Spain in January,

she takes advantage of everything when

it is at its peak. “Besides,” she says, “superb

fresh ingredients require less cooking.”

Zucchini Carpaccio is a testament to this.

It is uncooked, incredibly simple to prepare,

and the quality ingredients meld perfectly.

It’s the best way to eat this summer squash

at its freshest and most abundant.

She’s also practical, changing direction

with the rhythm of the year as it passes.

October is the perfect opportunity for an

adult Hallowe’en party, as Lucy responds to

a growing trend in theme parties. December

contains the holiday treats and menus you’d

expect along with a welcome Harried Shopper

menu to provide some relief during the most

hectic season of the year. �en in January and

February her meals take a leaner turn in anticipation

of extra holiday pounds that may have

resulted from some of those holiday treats she

tempted us with the season before.

�is book showcases Lucy’s extensive

and in-depth knowledge throughout. For

example, she notes “Shell�sh are at their peak

in September when the water temperatures

begin to cool, triggering changes in their food

sources and

creating the


sweetness that

turns people

into shell�sh

lovers.” She’s passionate about


sustainability and encourages preservation of

Canada’s excellent shell�sh supply by pointing

us to the Seafood Selector available at

Every recipe turns out, regardless of skill

level and without many complications.

�e scallops may not come out exquisitely

browned to perfection like hers (it seems

a combination of bravery and heat is the

trick), but tips like her admonishment to

cook them only “until just opaque in centre”

made sure they turned out sweet and succulent,

especially when set o� with a light

glaze of the citrus and tarragon sauce.

In addition to timely menus and food

ideas, Lucy’s book provides wine tips. Her

husband, Bruce, “loves wine and has made

it his avocation. For all our meals we discuss

what we will drink.… Friends have sought

his advice for years.” His wine suggestions

add an extra dimension to the menus.

�ey both glory in Canada’s culinary contributions.

While Bruce is extolling the virtues

of Pinot Gris from British Colombia, or the

local late autumn Rieslings of Ontario, Lucy is

remarking on the growing number of Canadian

artisanal cheeses or the heirloom Brandywine

tomatoes growing in organic farms.

So maybe her book won’t divulge all the

secrets to managing a schedule as intense as

hers, but it does show how to �ow with the

seasons and enjoy fully what’s right in front

of you. If you were to limit yourself to only

one cookbook this year, this one would still

have you running the gastronomic gamut.

JENNIFER GAGEL can be found cooking in the

kitchen of anyone who will let her. She can be reached


Cover image credit: Rob Fiocca



Photo courtesy of Cottage Life Magazine. Photographer: Jim Norton; Food

Stylist: Ruth Gangbar; Prop Stylist: Laura Branson Recipe courtesy of Lucy

Waverman, from A Year in Lucy’s Kitchen, Random House Canada, 2009.

Thai Chicken and Tomato Stew

�is recipe is “a great favourite” of

Lucy Waverman, and her personal

recommendation for eatdrink readers.

Serves 4

If you prefer to use boneless chicken breasts instead

of thighs, cut them into chunks, season and sear for 1

minute per side before adding to the sauce. Simmer

the breasts in the sauce for 4 minutes, or until just

cooked through.

Serve this with steamed rice.

3 tbsp (40 mL) vegetable oil

2 cups (500 mL) chopped onions

1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped garlic

1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped gingerroot

1 tbsp (15 mL) Thai red curry paste

1 cup (250 mL) coconut milk

2 cups (500 mL) chopped canned tomatoes

½ cup (125 mL) water

2 tbsp (25 mL) lime juice

½ tsp (2 mL) granulated sugar

1½ lb (750 g) skinless, boneless chicken

thighs, halved

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1⁄3 cup (75 mL) chopped fresh coriander

1 Heat oil in a large, deep skillet over medium

heat. Add onions and sauté for 10 minutes,

or until onions are golden. Stir in garlic,

ginger and curry paste, season with salt and

cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. If spices stick,

reduce heat and add oil if necessary.

2 Stir in coconut milk, tomatoes, water, lime juice

and sugar, scraping up any bits from the bottom

of the skillet. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and

simmer for 10 minutes.

3 Season chicken with salt and pepper. Stir

chicken into tomato mixture and cook, covered,

over medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, or

until chicken is just cooked through. Stir in coriander

just before serving.

Editor’s note: many thanks to Dominique Fox, of Books for

Cooks in Covent Garden Market. Dominique came through for

us when our review copy went astray.



issue no. 20

Watching What We Eat

The Evolution of Television Cooking Shows

By Darin Cook

Watching celebrity chefs on the

Food Network can be as addictive

as eating your favourite

meal. Television has brought

the entertainment value of food from visceral

to visual, even though it’s paradoxical

that an entire network serves up mouthwatering

dishes that viewers will never eat.

Although it may be a tease, Kathleen Collins

tells us in her book Watching What We

Eat (Continuum Books, 2009) that “people

love to watch cooking, but it does not mean

they love to cook or that they even do it at

all.” Collins takes us on a tour of how cooking

shows have become top-notch entertainment,

even though they started out as

instructional programs for housewives,

and she reveals how

a combination of

compelling chefs and

scrumptious food presentapresenta- DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010

tion keeps us tuning in day after day.

Preceding any cooking on television, radio

shows in the 1920s introduced the idea

of sharing recipes. Betty Crocker (not a real

person, just the voice of an actress) o�ered

kitchen tips and dictated recipes over the

airwaves. �is idea was expanded upon with

educational cooking shows on television.

Everyone these days knows of Bobby Flay

and Rachael Ray, but this book takes us back

to 1946 when James Beard became the �rst

professional chef to gain visual exposure on

a television show called I Love to Eat. Dione

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 53

Lucas, a Cordon Bleu trained chef, also began

airing cooking shows in 1947 with a formality

that was respectable and informative,

but not so entertaining.

Cooking shows in the 1950s gained

momentum with more candid and lighthearted

shows to succeed as a viable source

of entertainment. Chef Milani was

one of the �rst, in 1949, with the chef

joined by his whole family on the set

as they joked around amid the on-air

food preparation. �en, in 1962, came

Julia Child with �e French Chef, shifting

focus so that “much of the food

prepared on the show was not for

the homemaker but for people interested

in what chefs do in restaurants.” Graham

Kerr became �e Galloping Gourmet in the

1970s, spreading the gospel of cooking to an

even wider audience than Julia Child, making

recipes more accessible to the common

cook, rather than the trained professional;

although, like Je� Smith as �e Frugal Gourmet

in the 1980s, Kerr was criticized for not

being a true chef. Collins writes, “�ere is

an expectation, perhaps, that if someone

is teaching us to cook, they ought to be a

master. Obviously, however, it has little

bearing, if any, on the success or popularity

of a cooking show.” By the end of the 1980s,

cooking shows transformed food into a

spectator sport and turned people into foodies.

Wolfgang Puck popularized designer

pizzas. Emeril Lagasse started turning it up a

notch. Chefs with star quality were

sought after and continue to make

the Food Network as entertaining as

it is today.

Watching What We Eat not only

gives us a laundry list of celebrity

chefs, but also an in-depth look at

television’s in�uence on culture and

family life. A good portion of Food Network

viewers may only watch to see culinary

geniuses with razzle-dazzle knife skills, but

television has changed our view of food, not

only entertaining us but also o�ering education

along the way with practical kitchen

techniques, nutritional information, and

try-at-home recipes.

DARIN COOK keeps himself well read and well fed by

visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.



Eat Drink Wine Chocolate

A match made in heaven

By Rick VanSickle

Wine and chocolate: they are

two of life’s greatest pleasures,

bringing joy to our everyday

lives. But the two of them

together? Now that would be heavenly,

would it not?

I decided to pair them up with a taste test

at one of Niagara’s �nest wineries, Konzelmann

Estate. Konzelmann provided the wine

and I brought along a brand of chocolate

called Brix, which is speci�cally and scienti�cally

designed to match with di�erent wines.

Herbert Konzelmann, a fourth-generation

winemaker and the �rst in his family to

leave Germany in search of the perfect spot

to plant grapes, founded his

Konzelmann Estate Winery, Niagara-On-the-Lake

lakeside winery in Niagaraon-the-Lake

in 1984. It is one

of the prettiest properties in

Niagara, along the shores of

Lake Ontario, and is a spot

that reminded him of Alsace,

France. Not because

of the scenery, but due

to the climate, which is

similar to that of Alsace,

with a wonderful balance

of sun, soil, air �ow and

moisture conditions

ideal for the production

of clean, aromatic, delicate

and fruity wines.

Konzelmann is up

for the challenge as

we gather in the loft

of his stunning, newly

renovated estate with

gorgeous views overlooking

the vineyards

and shimmering Lake

Ontario. He’s like a

kid in a candy shop,

proudly pulling out


bottles of his wine for us to

try and match with the Brix

chocolate samples brought for

the experiment.

Sorting through various

bottles of many of the 49 different

wines he crafts, laid out

on a table, Konzelmann starts

pouring glass after glass. We

taste through the wines,

his eyes lighting up when

he hits a winner. “Oooh,

try this. And this,” he repeats,

as I try to keep up.

Konzelmann’s tastes are

obviously still married to

German-style rieslings and

Alsatian-style pinot blancs

and gewürztraminers. But

he’s also put together a �ne

program of red wines and

sweet icewines.

I’m cutting up pieces of

Brix chocolate (named

after the unit of measurement

for the sweetness of

grapes). First, we try the extra

dark with the big Konzelmann

Winemaster’s Collection Heritage

2007 red blend, which works well, and next

with the Konzelmann Cabernet Sauvignon

Icewine 2007, which is astonishingly good,

matching sweet red berries to bitter bits of

dark chocolate. Next up is the medium-dark

chocolate, which pairs well with Konzelmann

Shiraz Reserve 2007 and the Konzelmann

Winemaster’s Collection Merlot 2006.

�e �nal pairing is with the milk chocolate

Brix. Herbert suggests we try it with his

amazing Konzelmann Vidal Icewine 2007,

which hits all the right notes — honey,

peach, apricot — and proves a powerful

matchup of sweet fruit versus creamy chocolate.

It is delicious. But more impressive still

is the Winemaster’s Collection Four Generations

Pinot Noir 2007. A sensational taste

experience that seamlessly matches with

milk chocolate.

Konzelmann wants to go back and try the

Vidal Icewine with the extra dark chocolate

and decides that this is the best pairing of

all. I can’t stop thinking about that dark,

bold, red-fruit-laden pinot noir with the milk

chocolate. My, oh my, what a treat.



Brix Chocolate

What: Brix Chocolate,

sold in eight-ounce

bricks, meant to be fractured

like a hard cheese.

Meaning of Brix comes

from the term that measures

the sweetness of

grapes before harvest.

Why: Brix is the �rst

chocolate brand

speci�cally designed

to match with wine.

�ere are three blends

available — milk, dark

and extra dark — that

pair beautifully with

di�erent styles of wine.

Brix is formulated using

the �nest chocolate

from Ghana.

Where to buy: Indigo/

Chapters and many Niagara wineries, including

Konzelmann Estate Winery.


Cost: About $40 for

three eight-ounce


Suggested Wine


Milk Chocolate Brix

— Designed for lighter

reds and dessert wines.

Try with Port, icewine,

or pinot noir.

Medium Brix

— Designed for lighter

cabernet sauvignons

and heavier pinot

noirs. Try with zinfandel,

syrah, Rhone Valley

red blends, merlot

and shiraz.

Dark Brix

— Designed to pair

with big reds such as

cabernet sauvignon,

Bordeaux blends and

syrah. Try with Barolo,

Bordeaux or California

cabernet sauvignon.

issue no. 20




Konzelmann wines

are well represented at

the LCBO. Here’s one

to try that’s a�ordable

and delicious:

Konzelmann Pinot

Blanc 2008 ($11) —

What a great wine with

refreshing apple fruit

in an o�-dry style. �e

sweetness is perfect in

mouth with balancing

acidity and citrus-apple

�avours that linger

on the palate.

If you can make it

down to Niagara, here

are a couple of wineryonly

bottles that are highly recommended:

Konzelmann Winemaster’s Collection

Gewürztraminer Late

Harvest 2007 ($17)

— If you like Alsatian

gewürztraminer, you

will love this wine, with

notes of rose petals,

grapefruit and subtle

lychee nuts on the

highly perfumed nose.

It’s broad and slightly

oily on the palate with

grapefruit, tropical

fruits and honey on

the palate, all leading

to a long �nish. As

Konzelmann said during

our tasting, “�is

wine makes me happy.”

Couldn’t have said it

better myself!

Konzelmann Vidal

Icewine 2007 ($65 for a

half bottle) — �e 2006

version of this wine

made it to the Wine

Spectator Top 100 list,

and was the �rst Canadian

wine to appear on

the list. Herbert says

the 2007 is even better.


It hits all the right notes — honey, peach and

apricot, all in perfect balance.

RICK VANSICKLE is an avid wine collector and

freelance wine writer. He writes a weekly column on

Niagara wines in the St. Catharines Standard. He can be

reached at You can also follow

him on Twitter @rickwine.

Tips for Matching Chocolate to Wine

1 Start by tasting the wine, allowing the �avours

to fully saturate your mouth. Then try

the chocolate, letting it melt on your tongue.

Sip the wine again and savour the moment;

2 The wine you match should be sweeter than

the chocolate;

3 Chocolate coats the mouth when you eat it

so you’ll need a wine that’s big enough to

cut through the richness;

4 Try for similar �avours in the wine and the


— R.V.



�e Year of Beer

By The Malt Monk

The year-end holiday

season is a great time for

beerophiles to sample

the seasonal winter

o�erings of our local craft brewers

and to stock up on seasonal imports

we won’t see any other time of year. 2009

was a year of steady industry growth — of

brand and style expansion — for Ontario’s

craft brewers. Six new microbrewers have

opened, and there have been dozens of new

well-crafted beers made available for retail.

More cafés and restaurants are working craft

beer onto their menus and into their cuisine.

�is is encouraging, as it indicates Ontario’s

craft beer culture is becoming more established,

maturing in its tastes and expecting

more quality crafted beer. To celebrate the

achievements and milestones of our local

growing craft beer culture, I humbly submit

my nominations for “Year’s Best Awards” in

the local craft beer community.

Best Domestic Import

Dieu du Ciel Péché Mortel (LCBO 125401).

Demand has �nally made this Quebec

microbrewed elixir available in Ontario.

One of Canada’s highest rated

beers, Péché Mortel (French

for “Mortal Sin”) is a no-compromise

deep dark intense

double stout with rich roastyco�ee

tones. You’d never

guess the “sin” is its 9.5% abv,

which is totally hidden in

this stout’s exquisitely rich


Best US Micro-

Brewed Import Brooklyn

Black Chocolate Stout

(LCBO 95034). Long anticipated,

this award-winning

highly rated US craft Stout

is available in this market.

�e attributes that set this

stout apart are the intensity

of the cocoa/roasty

�avour and the decadent

issue no. 20


silky-smooth mouth

feel. Rich, intense and

warming, an excellent

stout to savour, to

cellar or to light up your

beer cuisine.

Best Euro Import

Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkel

(LCBO 125435). From the oldest working

brewery in the world (where beer has been

brewed since before the Crusades) comes the

original and authentic German wheat ale. �is

dark version (“Dunkel”) adds the lush tones of

toasty malt and cocoa to the clove and allspice

notes of the hefeweiss. �is is the universal

standard for the style.

Best Locally Brewed Seasonal


Creemore KellerBier (LCBO 134148). I know

I’ll catch �ack from other beer geeks for this

choice, as they no longer consider Creemore

to be a microbrewer. However, I chose it

anyway because this is the �rst appearance

of this great under-appreciated German style

in this market. I personally prefer un�ltered

lagers, but many casual beer consumers don’t

like a cloudy beer. It took guts for Creemore to

risk marketing commercial quantities of this

style in an untried market but I’m glad they

did. It was deeply �avourful and authentically

soft-palated but hoppy, well made from

top-notch imported malts and hops. I was

happily sipping away on this fantastic beer all

summer. I hope they make it again next year.

Best New IPA

Michael Duggan’s Number 9 IPA (Available

at the Cool Beer brewery store or better

beer bars). Winner of the Ontario Cask IPA

Challenge, this brew won out over all the best

locally crafted IPAs. Beer geeks will recognise

Michael Duggan as one of the founders of the

Mill Street Brewery and as an accomplished

and well-respected craft brewer. He has

plans for a new brewery opening soon, but

is currently working out of Cool Brewing in

Etobicoke. We can hardly wait for “Duggan’s

Brewery” to open, if this Number 9 ale is any

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 59



indication of the o�erings. Number 9 is a

copper-orange ale with a meringue-like

head and pungent malt and hop aromas;

bready, doughy, to�ee, �oral, citrus,

grassy — but the thing that makes it

stand out, and why I chose it as best

IPA, is seldom do you get an ale this

intense with such precise balance.

Best Beer Selection

Chancey Smith’s (130 King Street, London).

With a great location right beside

the John Labatt Centre, Mike Smith

has a great little bistro and beer bar

here. Chancey Smith’s has an appealingly

relaxed retro ambience, [see the

pro�le of Chancey’s in this issue], and

is replete with a bar, dining room and

large patio. But the real attraction here

for yours truly is the great beer selection.

Besides domestic premium taps,

there is a constantly rotating variety

of local microbeers and exceptional

imports on tap. In the cooler, there

are 100 or more di�erent bottled craft

beers from all over the world, with an emphasis

on the classic Belgian styles and soughtafter


Milos Kral, Chancey’s manager, talks of

wanting to expand the beer café theme by

getting more of these great beers into the cuisine

and expanding the tap handle selection.

I enjoyed a fresh draft of German Oktoberfest

Marzen and the house’s delicious specialty

corned beef dinner the last time I dropped

in. �e time before, I had a Trappist dubbel

ale with a slice of Espresso Crème

Brulé. �is is the appeal of Chancey’s:

a large, constantly rotating

variety of craft beers to pair with a

decently varied menu. �is is London’s

own beer bistro.

Best Innovative Marketing

Flying Monkeys Brewery

“Hoptical Illusion”(LCBO 132670).

Peter Chiodo over at Barrie’s

Robert Simpson craft brewery has done a

bang-up job in transitioning the brewery into

a more freestyle West Coast type microbrew

market. Redubbed “Flying Monkeys Craft

Brewery,” this portion of the operation will

produce more free-form beers that defy style

restrictions and may appeal to the person who

likes more eclectic West Coast microbrews.

�e �rst o�ering, “Hoptical Illusion,” is a

great amber-coloured pale ale with some big,

issue no. 20


layered malt �avour and bright sassy hop

bite — it de�es the two-dimensional pale ale

style so it is trademarked as an “almost pale

ale.” �e marketing is an eye-catching

neo-psychedelic theme and graphics.

Certainly a welcome break from the

conventional cautious restrained marketing

of the local craft brewing industry.

Although the packaging may lead one to

believe this is some over-the-top beer, it

is actually very �avourful, approachable

and great for sessions in front of a

CFL game. A second o�ering, branded

as “Netherworld India Pale Porter,” is in

the works and will certainly be another

must-try beer for the winter season.

Best Draft Beer Delivery

Systems Innovation

Flying Monkeys “Hopapotamonkey.”

Peter Chiodo is at it again, this time

inventing a canister device that sits

in the tap line between the draft beer

keg and the tap. It’s an in-line infuser

which runs the forced draft beer

[Hoptical Illusion] over a bed of hop cones,

infusing more hop aromatics into the beer

just before it hits the mug. Kudos, Peter!

�at’s a �rst in this market and beer fans

salute you for it. I hope to see one of these in

more bars serving your ales.

Best Cask-Conditioned Beer Variety

�e King Edward, Ilderton. Rich, at the King

Eddie pub in Ilderton, continues to run with

the hand-drawn cask-conditioned beer trend

by o�ering a constantly revolving

array of special one-o� cask beers

along with the great cask ales from

Neustadt, Grand River, Fuller’s,

and other local brewers. It takes

passion for real beer to do what

the Eddie does in a market that

is not too familiar with authentic

pub ale or cask-conditioned beer.

Bravo King Eddie, keep the real ale

culture alive.

Best Long-Awaited News

Denison’s Wheat Beer (hefeweiss) in

cans at the LCBO (LCBO #132480). Fans

of this world-class Weissbier have been

begging Michael Hancock, the brewer of

this multiaward-winning German-style

wheat ale, to make it available for home

consumption. Previously it was only available

at select beer bars on tap, Denison’s is


now available in 473 mL cans. Many thanks,

Michael! Happy beer geeks can now qua�

a spicy Denison’s at their family room Grey

Cup parties.

Best New Taste

Trafalgar Hop Nouveau 2009, wet hop harvest

ale. (LCBO 157784 – 650 mL bottle). A hat

tip to Mike Arnold at Trafalgar Ales for taking

the leap and producing a real “wet hop”

harvest ale, a �rst in this market. A small explanation:

“wet hop” ales are ales made with

freshly harvested (not dried or pelletized)

green hop cones. Harvest ale is made once

a year at hop harvest time with green whole

cone hops usually picked the day the ale is

brewed. �e idea is to create a super-fresh

beer where all the hop �avours are bright

and vibrant before natural oxidation removes

much of this in a dried hop.

Wet hop ales have been enjoying phenomenal

popularity, and the best ones are naturally

from brewers in the large hop-growing

regions of the Paci�c Northwest. Our local

market has not had a wet hop harvest beer

because our hop industry was destroyed by

a blight in the 40s and is just starting to make

a resurgence — driven by local craft brewing

demand. Supplies are limited. So my respect

goes out to Trafalgar for making this wet

hop ale the right way: sourcing locally grown

hops, getting them harvested and into the

beer the same day, then getting the �nished

beer to market fast enough to ensure this ale

is as fresh as possible.

�e e�ort was de�nitely worth it. I rate this

the best beer ever from this brewer. If you

were thinking this is some over-the-top microbrewed

hop bomb like the West Coast wet

hop ales, think again. Trafalgar Hop Nouveau

is an un�ltered pleasant pale ale. Aroma has

bright notes of succulent fruits and citrus peel

over caramel-cereal undertones with a faint

earthiness. You taste fresh gristed pale malts

meeting fresh hop cone aromatics, like exotic

fruit with a light grapefruit rind bite, over

dulcet biscuit dough... quenching, demure

character…wet, bright citrus-resinous �nish.

Very fresh tasting, approachable and thirst

slaking. Perhaps next year other local brewers

may follow Trafalgar’s lead and make a wet

hop harvest ale, but it will still be Trafalgar

that broke trail on this popular new style.

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond,

a passionate supporter of craft beer culture.



The word restaurant comes from the

French verb restaurer — to restore. A

place to go and be restored, not only

with food and maybe wine, but also

with friendship, goodwill and good times.

Why then did the two sides of “the troubles”*

in Ireland target so many pubs, restaurants

and hotels? Without getting too deeply into

the philosophic reasons why anyone would

want to bomb another human

being, the answer, to a large part,

was the sectarian nature of Northern


Many of the buildings

bombed were neighbourhood

places patronized by one particular

religion or group. �e

toll was devastating, not only

in the bombing itself, but on

the whole psyche of the population.

Some of the worst attacks were

on McGurk’s Bar in 1971 (15 people killed, 17

injured), the Mulberry Bush Pub in 1974 (21

people killed, 182 injured) and the La Mon

Hotel in 1978 (12 people burned to death,

30 injured, by an incendiary device). Still,

throughout all this destruction, life went on.

�e indestructible Irish spirit (and some

40-proof spirit) was not broken.

In 1969, I started work at Dunadry Inn in

Temple Patrick. It was an old mill owned

by an eccentric man called Paddy Falloon,

and was not only beautiful to behold but

set the standard for food. It was also sta�ed

with a lot of good-looking debutantes from

England. �ere were sta� quarters near the

hotel, as it was quite remote, and I “heard”

there were many sta� parties.

At the time, I had a motorbike and would

travel home each night after work. One late

night, the roads were quiet and I was going

at a fair speed. Suddenly, someone shone a

�ashlight at me. It was one of the frequent

army checkpoints, which would appear at

issue no. 20

A Cook’s Life: Part IV

Nobody Knows the Troubles I’ve Seen

By David Chapman


random. With visions of being shot for failing

to stop, I braked hard and come to a stop

just in time. It is unnerving to be questioned

with a ri�e pointed at you — especially when

that person is younger than you are.

�is was all part and parcel of life during

the troubles. Every place of business

usually had a security person at the door to

check purses and pat you down. When

people complain about security at

airports since 9/11, I think back to

how everyone in Ireland had to go

through worse just to get a pint

of milk.

On the lighter side, the

Dunadry chef was English

and the manager was German.

Perhaps they didn’t

know the Second World War

was over, because they hated

each other. Getting into the kitchen during

service was di�cult, as a table was put

across the entrance to hold extra plates. Yet

each night, the manager would squeeze

through this gap to speak to the chef.

When Chef was in a foul mood one night

(it happens), he decided to take it out on

the manager. He spread a thin layer of butter

along the edge of the table. When the

manager squeezed through, he got a nice

stripe of butter on the back of his suit. No

one said a word, but he never squeezed

through again.

* A long period of sectarian violence in Northern Ireland, referred

to as “the Troubles,” began in the 1960s and formally ended with the

Belfast Agreement in 1998.

DAVID CHAPMAN has been a creative and respected

�xture in the London restaurant scene for over 20 years. He is

the proprietor of David’s Bistro and manages The Katana Kafe.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 63

“More than a visit... An Experience!”

5 unique private dining rooms

inspired by cities in France to

accommodate 6 - 40 people.

Perfect for cocktail parties,

weddings & showers.

Enclosed year-round veranda &

2 Fireplaces

Business meetings: Full &

1/2 day packages available.

Wireless internet, projectors &

screens and parking all free!

We invite you to book one of our private rooms for your

celebration, accommodating up to 40 guests. Space is

limited, make us your first choice! Be our guest soon!

Come visit our newest Patisserie, located at “The Trails End

Market”, Saturdays from 7am to 5pm! Try our House baked

French Pastries, Quiches and made to order Crepes! Put us on

your on your market shopping list! You won’t be disappointed!

(Highway #2, east of Veterans’ Memorial Parkway)

Nicole Arroyas,


Executive Chef/Owner

Lunch caterings available for

minimum of 12 guests!

Lunch, 11:30am to 4pm

Afternoon Tea, 12pm to 4pm

Dinner, starting at 4:30pm

• Vegetarian & Celiac Menus

• Modern & Traditional

French Cuisine

• Affordable Wine List &

Reserve Cellar Wines

• Prix fixe & Tasting Menus

• Diet Requests Accommodated

• Diabetic Desserts!

Paris Dining Room

Open Monday-Saturday

from 11:30 am

Located downtown at

458-460 King Street,

London (at Maitland)

Free Parking







Purée Palestine

(Jerusalem Artichoke Soup)

Makes about 6 servings


½ cup (125 mL) butter

½ cup (125 mL) onion, sliced

½ cup (125 mL) celery root, cut into ½-inch dice

2 lbs (1 Kg) Jerusalem artichokes, peeled & sliced

About 6 cups (1.5 L) light chicken stock



Parsnip chips


1 Preparing the Purée:

In a large saucepan, melt ¼ cup (50 mL) of butter

over medium-low heat; add onion and celery

root; cook until softened but not coloured. Add

Jerusalem artichokes, about half the stock, season;

bring to a simmer, and cook until Jerusalem

artichokes are tender.

2 Pour soup into blender, blend until smooth; pass

through �ne sieve into clean saucepan. If necessary,

adjust consistency with remaining stock.

3 Serving the Purée:

Gently heat soup, check seasoning. Add remaining

butter, bit by bit, to glaze and enrich soup.

Ladle into shallow warm soup bowls. Serve

immediately, garnished with parsnip chips and


Recipe courtesy of:

Auguste Esco�er, The Esco�er Cookbook: A Guide to

The Fine Art of French Cookery, (1975), Crown.

issue no. 20

Winter Recipe

A Stratford Chefs School Favourite


DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 issue no. 20 WEB3


Charleston Cooks!

Discovering the Taste of The South

Corn Fritters

with Tomato Relish

Serves 6-8


3 ears of corn, shucked

1 egg

½ cup milk

1⁄3 cup stone ground grits

2 tablespoons baking powder

2-3 tablespoons �our

2-3 green onions, sliced

2-3 dashes hot sauce

Canola oil

1 Cut corn kernels o� the cob, and scrape the cob

to extract the corn milk.

2 In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg and

milk until combined.

3 Add the grits, baking powder and �our.

4 Add the corn, corn milk, green onions, and a few

dashes of Tabasco.

5 Pour canola oil into a nonstick skillet just to

cover bottom of pan, and heat over medium

heat until hot. Drop batter into hot skillet by

the tablespoon. Fry on both sides until golden

brown. Remove from pan, and pat o� excess oil

on paper towels. Lightly sprinkle salt over fritters,

and serve with tomato relish.


½ cup grape tomatoes, quartered

1 onion, diced

1 clove garlic, grated

½ cup sugar

½ cup cider vinegar

1 Place all ingredients in a small sauce pan. Cook

over low heat until reduced and syrupy. Season

with salt and pepper. Let cool.


The batter will be thin and runny at �rst, but will

�rm up as soon as you drop it into the hot skillet.

Recipe courtesy of:

Danielle Wecksler, Charleston Cooks! General

Manager/Culinary Director

Maverick Southern Kitchens

(843) 722-1212



7-8 slices bacon

1 (2 pound) pork tenderloin, silver skin removed

Stone Ground Mustard, about 1 cup

Olive oil

1 Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2 Place the bacon in a cold sauté pan and cook on

medium heat until the bottom is dark brown.

Remove from the pan.

3 Rub the pork tenderloin with enough mustard

to lightly coat the entire tenderloin. Sprinkle

with salt and pepper to taste. Note: Be more

generous with the pepper than salt. The bacon

contains the majority of the salt needed to season

the pork.

4 Lay the bacon slices on a cutting board cooked

side up. Place the pork tenderloin at the end of

the slices perpendicularly to the way the strips

are laying.

5 Roll the tenderloin in the bacon strips.

6 Lay the wrapped tenderloin on a baking sheet

bacon ends down.

7 Roast until desired internal temperature is


8 Remove from oven and allow the meat to rest

5-7 minutes before slicing.


Pork: Medium Rare: 145-150°F

Medium: 150-155°F

Medium Well: 160- 165°F

Well Done: 170°F and above

issue no. 20

Charleston Cooks!

Discovering the Taste of The South

Bacon-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin

with Bourbon Sauce



Olive oil, about 1/8 cup

1 medium red onion, peeled and sliced

1 small apple, such as granny smith, peeled,

cored, and julienned

1 cup bourbon

1 cup strong beef or chicken stock

2 teaspoons honey

1 Heat a pan over medium heat. When the pan is

hot, add enough oil to cover the bottom of the

pan. When the oil is hot, add the onion to the

pan and cook onion until it is translucent.

2 Remove the pan from the heat; add the apples

and the bourbon. Scrape up any brown bits

from the bottom of the pan, and return the pan

to the heat. Cook sauce until it is thickened and


3 Stir in the brown stock and honey. Season to

taste with salt and pepper.

Recipe courtesy of:

Danielle Wecksler, Charleston Cooks! General

Manager/Culinary Director

Maverick Southern Kitchens

(843) 722-1212

More magazines by this user
Similar magazines