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NZPhotographer Issue 43, May 2021

As of December 2022, NZPhotographer magazine is only available when you purchase an annual or monthly subscription via the NZP website. Find out more: www.nzphotographer.nz

As of December 2022, NZPhotographer magazine is only available when you purchase an annual or monthly subscription via the NZP website. Find out more: www.nzphotographer.nz

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HARD LIGHT AND BACKLIGHT SHADOWPLAY<br />

Left: Backlighting from the sun creates a rim of light around the subject, separating her from the background and casting a long shadow.<br />

Middle: Strong sunlight on the white wall has a similar effect to a backlight.<br />

Right: Backlighting using a window with natural light bouncing in to fill shadows.<br />

Model: Anita van der Mespel.<br />

You can even experiment with creating flare and sunburst effects when using backlighting. Simply position<br />

your subject so that the sun is slightly peeking out from behind them. A higher f-stop in this situation will create a<br />

sunburst effect (variable depending on the number of aperture blades in your lens) whereas a lower f-stop will<br />

create more of a hazy effect. Modern lenses are fastidiously manufactured and coated in order to specifically<br />

avoid lens flare but you can increase the chances of getting one by removing your lens hood and playing<br />

around with the angle you’re shooting at. There are also tools like the OMNI filter system by Lensbaby designed<br />

specifically to generate lens effects or the Black Pro-Mist filters by Tiffen which create a hazy look. Another way<br />

to get lens flare is to use a vintage lens with an adapter as these don’t have the anti-reflective coatings of<br />

modern lenses.<br />

You can also photograph a subject backlit indoors by positioning them in front of a bright window. Instead<br />

of using a reflector to light your backlit subject, you could use a flash. I’ll be talking all things flash in a later<br />

article but, for now, try experimenting with the pop-up flash on your camera if you have one. If it’s not bright<br />

enough, move closer to your subject. If the light is too hard or bright, try diffusing it with a piece of baking paper<br />

attached with a rubber band. You can also get some subtle colour effects by using colour gels on your flash<br />

(and now you have an excuse to buy those chocolates that are wrapped in coloured cellophane).<br />

CREATIVE LIGHTING – MANIPULATING LIGHT<br />

Strong, direct sunlight (hard light) can be used to great creative effect and you can try this indoors or out. You<br />

will have seen how bright sun shining directly in through a window casts patterns on the room inside. Any item<br />

with a pattern, provided that pattern is thick enough to block light, can be used for creative lighting. You can<br />

buy what is called a ‘gobo’ (short for go-between) for some studio lights and projectors to make light patterns,<br />

but I encourage you to have fun experimenting with your own finds or creations. For example, horizontal blinds<br />

create that classic film-noir look but, if you don’t have these, you can create it by taping up strips of cardboard<br />

or similar to your window. The sharpest results are achieved by moving your gobo close to the subject (or vice<br />

versa) which is why those film-noir images have the subject right up against the window blinds, peering through<br />

them. I have had success creating patterns with a tennis racket, fishnet tights, cardboard strips and cutouts…<br />

but my favorite is lace. Have a look to see what you have around the house that might create an interesting<br />

pattern. Hint: it needs to be large enough to create a pattern to cover your subject as it’s best to avoid being<br />

able to see the edges.<br />

26 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>NZPhotographer</strong>

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