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OPINION: DAVID NICK KOTTER WILSON

angle of the front driveshafts. The

rear suspension travel is largely

determined by the limited amount

of flex available from the leaf

springs. Vehicle manufacturers

design their suspension systems

to work within a specific range of

up and down travel, that is locked

in by the stock vehicle’s ride

height. Increasing the height of

an IFS front-end in simple terms,

reduces the amount of down

travel (suspension droop) and

increases the amount of up travel

that is available. A 4WD that has

been lifted too high – and this

can be less than 50mm in some

vehicles – can have the upper

control arms sitting on their

bump stops and that’s not good

at all. The result will be a harsh

ride, loss of traction and stability

as well as poor handling both on

and off road. And let’s not forget

that it’s a legal requirement that

at least 1/3 of your suspension’s

arc of operation is made up of

down travel.

Levelling out or raising the

front of an IFS-equipped 4X4

higher than the rear, removes

the factory rake angle that these

IFS equipped vehicles need to

work correctly and fundamentally

alters the suspension’s geometry.

Altering the rake angle by as

little as 20mm can cause serious

oversteer and braking issues.

If you’re keen on building a

4X4 that is safe, nice to drive and

capable off-road, there are, in my

opinion, three rules to follow and

yeah I know rules suck:

“Real off-roaders

know they want more

suspension travel and

can’t easily get it, while

the mall crawler brigade

need more suspension

travel and don’t know it.”

RULE 1 - Limit the amount of

lift so that you retain as much of

the original suspension’s down

travel (droop) as you can, or

legally modify the suspension

to increase the amount of down

travel that is available which then

makes a higher lift possible.

The MQ Triton, for example,

in stock form has just 50mm of

suspension down travel which

means a run-of-the-mill, nothing

to get too excited about, 50mm

suspension lift, has the Triton’s

This is not the same as your Ranger. It’s really not.

upper control arms sitting on

their bumps stops. The result is

compromised CV angles, zero

flex off road and a harsh ride in

all conditions. The only choice

you have with the Triton is to

either fit a smaller lift (20-30mm)

or fit something like the Karrman

kit that I’ve developed for the

Triton and Pajero Sport.

The Karrman kit lowers the

front differential and allows you

to fit a 75mm suspension lift

while retaining flat driveshaft

angles and increasing down

travel to 65mm. Real off-roaders

know they want more suspension

travel and can’t easily get it, while

the mall crawler brigade need

more suspension travel, and don’t

know it.

RULE 2 - Maintain or at least

run close to the factory Rake and

Caster angles. You won’t hear this

one talked about much around

the campfire and it’s a sad fact

that it’s a topic that is not well

understood by many (not all)

wheel alignment practitioners.

Getting the mall crawler ‘Baja

Racer’ look requires a suspension

lift, larger tyres, the levelling out

of the vehicle and even raising

the front end higher than the

rear. Raising the front-end and

removing the factory rake pushes

the front wheels forward, or in

technical terms creates positive

caster. Fitting oversized tyres

Above: Correct rake. Below: Mall

crawler rake

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