Howler 202107 July International

JUly 2021
INTERNATIONAL Costa Rica TO THE WORLD
since 1996
• Surf Spots
• Skimboarding: Acrobatics
of the Fearless
• Road Trip to Sarapiqui
• Graceful Dance of the
Mobula Rays
• Passion for Travel
• Anatomy of a Dream
Home
• Summer Vacation Game
Plan
DIGITAL
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h o w l e r m a g . c o m

EDITORIAL
IS TECHNOLOGY
RUINING OUR CULTURE?
As our advancements in technology
accrue, are we sacrificing the
regional cultures of the world?
I remember when visiting Mexico
years ago, you would rarely see cell
phones used by the locals. However
every shanty shack had a satellite hookup
for television. The next year on my yearly
trek, all of a sudden everyone had cell
phones.
The cultures of Latin America run
deep in its indigious tribes, art, food and
dance. Today you see the young people
with their faces in their cell phones and
they hardly look up to see if there is
traffic when crossing a street.
This is not just a case in Latin America,
it is worldwide. The fear of the new
generation not embracing the culture
and heritage that built their society is
real. Technology, while improving our
lives, also ruins the base that we are
founded upon.
The social nature of people is being
lost. We are relying more and more on
the gadgets that are supposedly making
our lives easier. Have you ever sat in
a restaurant and seen everyone at the
table texting or doing searches with their
phones? It’s sad that communication has
evolved to our gadgets, rather than a
smile, hello and good conversation.
The art of just simple chatting is
being lost. Social media is anything but
social. The brag factor of where you are,
what you are eating or buying has taken
control. Influencers!
How do we gain control of our social
lives again? Can you even leave a cell
phone without picking it up every few
minutes? Do a test and see how long
you can go without picking up your
cell phone to see if someone has liked
your comment or texted you. Is it really
that important that you spend half your
day with noses stuck in a phone or an
electronic device?
We have been locked down for over
a year, and out of necessity resorted
to Zoom meetings not only for work
purposes but also for personal contact.
How do we pull ourselves out of the
shutdown and begin engaging people
once again?
I made the statement early in the
shutdown that it would be hard to get
people out of the new comfort level that
they have within their own environment.
We have to start getting out and
making the world move once again with
normality.

Going back to our cultures: how do we
keep the new generation interested in their
past so that they relate to the history that
made them? Facebook and Instagram are
not promoting society, they are promoting
self-nature. The history that has made all of
our cultures is wildly important and needs
to be taught, passed on and celebrated.
We need to see kids out playing again
and learning how to work in teams rather
than self-reliance.
We need to regain this to keep moving
forward with a healthy society.
Try turning your phone and computer
off for a full day. Regain your life from the
electronics that are currently controlling
you.
John B. Quam
When I visited many foreign countries,
it was so interesting to see how the town
square would fill up in the evening with
people socializing. La Ramblas in Barcelona
was packed with strollers out enjoying the
company of others.
Social media is
anything but social.

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HOWLER
T r o o p
Howler hits the Pacific waves this month, in
more ways than one. Reflecting on Costa
Rica’s abundance of premium surf spots,
including many featured in past magazine issues,
our cover story revisits these four among many
favorites: Ollie’s Point, Playa Hermosa, Mal Pais
and Playa Negra. Then, for a different water sport
twist, we take you to Prieta for some spectacular
skimboarding action, captured through the lens
of our July featured contributor, Perry Carlile. Yet
another style of aquatic acrobatics will captivate
you in our Creature Feature, where a group of
graceful mobula rays are pictured at Drake Bay.
Travel & Adventure explores the natural
wonders of Sarapiquí and highlights five
Nicaragua attractions that are possible to visit
during a long-weekend jaunt across Costa Rica’s
northern border.
The Arts, Culture & Entertainment section
provides insight into funeral and cemetery
traditions in Costa Rica, and also tells a
lighthearted tale about a ravenous ATM. Pura
Vida offers four professional perspectives
on Costa Rican dream home designs, and a
mindfulness ritual for connecting with the healing
power of water. The importance of ensuring
water accessibility when purchasing a home
building property is covered in CR Biz, as well
as LegalEase information for rental property
owners.
FEATURED
CONTRIBUTOR
Perry Carlile
began his
photography career
at his hometown
newspaper, The
Monitor, in Naples,
Texas. He was
also the high
school yearbook
photographer
for one year. He
joined the U. S.
Navy in 1979 as
a Photographer’s
Mate. He flew with
training jets, served on a destroyer tender ship
and taught at the Navy’s Photography A School
in Pensacola, Florida before his tour ended in
1987. Since then, Perry has taken wedding, nature
and family photos. He has lived in Costa Rica for
over eight years. He serves as pastor at Beach
Community Church in Brasilito.
WRITERS
Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys,
specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@
gmattorneyscr.com
Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering
sound journeys, breathwork experiences, cacao ceremonies &
other activities. hello@puravidavibrations.com
Norm Schriever. Best-selling author, expat, cultural mad
scientist, and enemy of the comfort zone. Places he has called
home over the past decade include Costa Rica, Nicaragua,
Cambodia, Thailand, and the Philippines.
HOWLER

July 2021 Vol. 30 No. 7
PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF
John B. Quam
Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients
embrace wellness in five interconnected areas of life: relationships,
livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet.
Mary Martin Mason. Published author whose latest book, Casa de
Doloros, was inspired by her experiences and adventures as a U.S. expat
living in Atenas, Costa Rica. A regular writer for the Mango Musings
blog, and also an award-winning former columnist with The Southwest
Journal in Minneapolis, who also taught high school English in Houston,
Japan and Minnesota.
Rick Philps. Canadian who practiced law in Victoria, BC before moving
to Costa Rica in 1998. He has practiced law here for 17 years, having
continued his education in civil law and notary and registry law. Offers
legal due diligence seminars and consultations in the Gold Coast area
for expats moving, or considering moving to Costa Rica. Contact rick@
costaricacanadalaw.com or visit www.costaricacanadalaw.com
Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature
photographer, retired software executive. tom@pananima.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Carlos Palacios. Professional water and land photographer from
Costa Rica, who loves nature and surfing, and telling stories with
his photos while having fun doing it. insecto@gmail.com www.
insectoart.com Facebook @insecto Instagram @insecto
Christopher Penker. Photographer specializing in wildlife,
underwater and nature. Visit Wild Horizon Photography and
Instagram@wild _horizon_photography
Emiliano Ras. Professional photographer and surf guide in
Guanacaste. Instagram/@americas.surf Facebook@surfereye
Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile
based in Jacó, Costa Rica. Specialist in outdoor photography,
including surfing, and studio photography. Call: 8836-6475.
Jorgerussellphotographer @gmail.com
Creative & art
Terry Carlile
marketing director - Terry Carlile
account executive
Mary Fernández
Editorial Staff
Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator
Laurie Quam - Copy Editor
Graphic Design - Terry Carlile
cover photo - Perry Carlile
Business Development
John D. Lane. jdlanelcm@gmail.com
HOWLER () 2017
Contact
John Quam - Managing Partner
headmonkey@howlermag.com
Editor: editor@howlermag.com
Advertising: ads@howlermag.com
Design: design@howlermag.com
CR Office: (506) 4701-5942
Howler Magazine Costa Rica
@howlercostarica
@thehowlermag
@howlermagazine
The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A.
Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213
The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the
various authors in this publication do not necessarily
reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler
organization or its advertisers.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may
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noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For
permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com.
The Howler Magazine does not assume
responsibility for the content of its advertisements.
Images not credited are acquired from stock
photography services.
Copyright © 2021
The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A.
Copyright © 2021 Howler Media Holding,
Inc. Panama
The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A.
Read all current and past articles online
howlermag.com
#SearchFindHowl
Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213
HOWLER (TM)2017

UP FRONT
COVER STORY
SURF SPOTS
OLLIE’S POINT
PLAYA HERMOSA, JACÓ
MAL PAIS
PLAYA NEGRA
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
FEATURED ADVENTURE
A Road Trip to Sarapiquí
CREATURE FEATURE
The Graceful Dance of the Mobula Rays
SURFING CR
ACROBATICS OF THE FEARLESS
Skimboarding
Tide Chart
Photo: Perry Carlile

ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT
CULTURAL HERITAGE
Death and Dying in Costa Rica
SURVIVING CR
What Circle of Hell is This?
PURA VIDA/LIVING CR
LIFESTYLE FEATURE
Passion for Travel Leads Here to Stay
BUILDING FEATURE
Anatomy of a Costa Rica Dream Home
MINDFULNESS
Connect With the Spirit of Water
CR BIZ
BUILDING CR
Water Availability
LEGALEASE
Taxes for Rentals and CCSS
ENTREPRENEUR CR
How to Set Strong Business Intentions

UP FRONT
Endless Summer,
Endless
Surf
Spots
A Favorite Few of Many
by John Quam
COVER STORY

As many Howler readers are aware from
past articles about Tamarindo surf legend
Robert August, the 1994 movie Endless
Summer II secured Costa Rica’s place thereafter
as one of the top surf destinations on the planet.
From world-class competitors to vacationers
getting their feet wet with beginner lessons, wavebound
travellers have been flocking here ever
since.
If anyone can appreciate why this country was
named “Rich Coast,” local and expat surfers likely
have their own lists of favorite spots with special
reasons. And they might only scratch the surface,
as Howler has managed to do over the years in our
always-popular Surf Spot column. Join us now in
revisiting a favorite few of many.
Ollie’s Point
Playa Hermosa
Mal Pais
Playa Negra
Photo: Cheboards

UP FRONT
Ollie’s Point
Put on the map and made popular by the film Endless Summer
II, Ollie’s Point, off of Costa Rica’s northern Guanacaste coast, was
named after Oliver North. Howler’s fascinating March 2018 cover
story, Ollie’s World, recounts the infamous U.S. lieutenant colonel’s
role in the 1980s smuggling weapons to the Sandinistas during the
Nicaraguan Civil War against the Contras.
Ollie's Point is located a short distance to the north of Witch’s
Rock, and is referred to in Spanish as Potrero Grande. This right-hand
point break is one of the most sought-after places to surf in Costa
Rica. Next to Santa Rosa National Park, it beckons surfers to a very
isolated location accessible only by boat. It is recommended that your
surfing ability should be in the range of good to experienced.
Photo: Cheboards
COVER STORY

Mal Pais
Photo: Carlos Palacios
Located on the Nicoya Peninsula, Mal Pais and its nearby
neighbor to the north, Santa Teresa, were recently voted by Forbes
Magazine as “one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in the world.”
This slow, relaxing village is a fishing town and is less developed
than Santa Teresa. If you want serenity and to avoid the crowds, Mal
Pais is the place. It has beautiful rocky beaches as well as stretches
of sandy ones littered with sea shells.
There are lots of water sports here besides surfing. Scuba diving,
fishing, and kitesurfing are just some of the activities. Exploring the
coastline and just relaxing in this paradise are good for your soul.

UP FRONT
Playa Hermosa, Jacó
Photo: Jorge Russell
Hermosa means “beautiful” in Spanish. This beach and
town fit that name well. The uncrowded beach is wide and
over four miles long, perfectly lending itself to take a walk
enjoying the salt mist and constant surf sound. It is not a good
beach for swimming due to the dangerous riptides.
Serious surfers love this place because of its big waves and
quiet and uncrowded beaches. What more could you ask for?
COVER STORY
Putting Playa Hermosa on the map and making this a
sought-after surfing destination was easy. In 2020 Playa
Hermosa was designated the first World Surfing Reserve in
Central America.
Playa Hermosa is not recommended for beginner surfers.
But Jacó, just five miles to the north, is a great place to learn.

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Playa Negra
Just a short distance south of Tamarindo
in the Guanacaste Province, Playa Negra
is considered another one of the the best
surf spots in Costa Rica. The closest town
to Playa Negra is Los Pargos, meaning “the
snapper.”
This surf break is another place made
famous by the Bruce Brown-directed movie
Endless Summer II. Easy to get to, Playa
Negra is considered one of the country’s
best places to surf. It is a rock reef bottom
and has a great right-hand barrel. A leftbreaking
wave appears depending on the
direction of the tides and swells. It is a
constant surf spot year round due to its
exposure to the northern and southern
hemisphere swells.
A 2012 earthquake that lifted the
tectonic plate changed the Playa
Negra wave to have better form in the
combination of higher tides and smaller
swells.
The area around Playa Negra has a lot
of options for dining. The town can get
crowded because of its popularity and
proximity to Tamarindo.
Be aware of the currents; there are
riptides in this area.

Full service Hotel,
Restaurant and
Event Center
Only 40
minutes to
Playa
Negra
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Padoka’s website with
videos, map, photos and
Facebook/Instagram links

A Road Trip to
SARAPIQUÍ
The Other Side of the Mountain
Article and photos by Tom Schultz
FEATURED ADVENTURE
Sarapiquí is an ecotourist’s dream — a
vast expanse of tropical rain forest
teeming with animals, bursting with
vegetation and mercifully spared from the
megaresorts and hordes of tourists found
in many parts of Costa Rica. It’s renowned
for its unspoiled forests, wild rivers and
environmentally friendly ecolodges.
Situated northeast of the Central
Valley, the canton of Sarapiquí is not
as well known as Guanacaste, Arenal,
Monteverde, Manuel Antonio or even
the Osa Peninsula, except among
knowledgeable whitewater rafters
and serious jungle researchers. It has
in recent years become more popular,
especially as a day trip or weekend
destination for people in the Central
Valley.
We had heard there is surprisingly
much to see and do in this northernmost
part of the province of Heredia, so we set
out on a grand circle tour that took both
roads to and from Sarapiquí.
Leaving the always overcrowded
highways of San José and Heredia, we
drove north through the increasingly
open and less crowded towns on route
126, which cuts between the Poás and
Barva volcanoes. At the bottom of the La
Paz Waterfall is a new and rather ugly
bridge, which along with the scars on
the mountain slopes, is a reminder of the
terrible 2009 earthquake that destroyed
this area, killing at least 34 and leaving
some 64 people missing.
Birding spot
Near the top of the rise we stopped,
and you should too, at the Cinchona Café
Colibrí. The current structure is rebuilt
on what was left after it was destroyed
in the earthquake. The family that owns
the restaurant has for many years put
out hummingbird and fruit feeders, and
the spot has become renowned in birding
circles.

Black-throated trogon
Red-eyed tree frog
Blue morpho butterfly
Aerial tram soars above the treetops of
Braulio Carrillo National Park
Yellow-throated toucan

From there we started the long
descent to the plains of Sarapiquí.
The road roughly follows the
border between Alajuela and
Heredia provinces and the
Sarapiquí River, which forms in
the heights of Poás and gives the
area its name. Looming to our right
and covering almost all of southern
Sarapiquí and the Barva Volcano is
Braulio Carrillo National Park.
Tapirs are a poular Sarapiquí attraction
We continued to drop out of
the mountains on the Caribbean
slope and entered the La Virgen
section of Sarapiquí, where the
region’s first big attraction is
located — rafting and kayaking. The
moderate Class III rapids are ideal
for novices and families and offer
plenty of opportunity for wildlife
viewing on the calm stretches
between thrilling rapids.
La Paz Waterfall Photo: James Kaiser

There are several operators — Sarapiquí Outdoor
Center is a good one. If you want to make this the
end of your first day in Sarapiquí, we can suggest the
wonderful Sarapiquis Rainforest Lodge.
The next day we continued up through La Virgen
and headed toward Puerto Viejo (not to be confused
with the Puerto Viejo on the south Caribbean coast).
Along the way we stopped at one of the more curious
attractions in the area: Dave and Dave’s Nature
Park. The father and son U.S. expats who own this
small reserve have worked it for years, restoring the
forests and promoting second-growth forests. They
have an interesting story and a tour that is not quite
like those you usually find: You sit, you talk, you
walk the trails, you drink coffee, and you photograph
frogs and birds that you’d have a hard time seeing in
other places. It’s a quirky and great way to spend a
morning.
There is surprisingly much to see and do
in this northernmost part of the province.
Golden-headed tanager
Caiman keeping watch on the river.

The Graceful Danc
Mobula Rays
CREATURE COOL PLACES FEATURE
Do you know why do mobula rays jump out of the
A. The vibrations from the engine tickles them
B. Showing off for a potential mate
C. Get rid of parasites
D. Communicate with the other rays

e of the
water?
by Howler Staff
Photos: Christopher Penker

CRETURE FEATURE

Mobula rays enjoy the
warm, temperate seas
around Costa Rica. These
photos were taken in Drake Bay in
May. Their appearance is similar
to that of the manta rays, which
are a part of the same family.
They feast on plankton, which
is their major food source. Mobula
rays are not dangerous and rely on
fast bursts of speed and their large
body size for defense.
They capture the fascination
of scuba divers, snorkelers and
boaters as they jump individually,
or sometimes in a group of
dozens. Onlookers can witness
an aerobatic display as they
gracefully project themselves out
of the water.
The reason why? To answer the
opening question: b), c) and d).
Mobula rays have to stay in
perpetual motion to keep the
water flowing through their gills
to breathe.
The biggest danger to these
rays is the new market that has
opened. They are heavily sought
after for their gill plates used
in Asian medicine. They are
often slaughtered as bycatch in
commercial fishing.
Organizations like www.
mantatrust.org can be researched
for more information about
conservation efforts.

CRETURE FEATURE

Onlookers
can witness
an aerobatic
display as they
gracefully
project
themselves out
of the water.
Photos: Christopher Penker
Instagram: wild_horizon_photography
www.chrispenker.com
Linktree: linktr.ee/wild_horizon/

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OCEAN
ADVENTURES
See our sports
SEE THIS COLLECTION OF COSTA RICA’S RECREATION
fishing feature!
FISHING
YACHTING
SAILING
BOATING

SURFIN G
COSTA RICA
Skimboarding
Cristobal Loria, a skimborder May 2021 at Playa Prieta
Photo: Perry Carlile

MOON PHASES
JULY 1
JULY 3
JULY 1
JULY 31
July 1
3rd Quarter
July 9
New Moon
July 17
1st Quarter
July 23
Full Moon
SUNRISE
SUNSET
5:25 am
5:32 am
6:08 pm
6:06 pm
JULY TIDE CHART
Day High Low High Low High
Thu 01 01:30 0.75 ft 07:58 8.68 ft 14:07 1.46 ft 20:18 7.85 ft
Fri 02 02:21 1.26 ft 08:51 8.36 ft 15:04 1.76 ft 21:14 7.41 ft
Sat 03 03:14 1.72 ft 09:45 8.11 ft 16:02 1.94 ft 22:13 7.11 ft
Sun 04 04:08 2.06 ft 10:39 7.96 ft 16:59 1.97 ft 23:11 6.98 ft
Mon 05 05:03 2.26 ft 11:31 7.93 ft 17:53 1.87 ft
Tue 06 00:07 7.01 ft 05:56 2.32 ft 12:20 8.00 ft 18:43 1.66 ft
Wed 07 00:58 7.18 ft 06:46 2.25 ft 13:07 8.16 ft 19:29 1.38 ft
Thu 08 01:45 7.43 ft 07:33 2.08 ft 13:51 8.36 ft 20:11 1.09 ft
Fri 09 02:29 7.71 ft 08:18 1.86 ft 14:34 8.56 ft 20:51 0.82 ft
Sat 10 03:10 8.01 ft 09:00 1.61 ft 15:15 8.73 ft 21:30 0.60 ft
Sun 11 03:49 8.27 ft 09:42 1.39 ft 15:56 8.83 ft 22:08 0.46 ft
Mon 12 04:28 8.50 ft 10:23 1.20 ft 16:36 8.84 ft 22:46 0.39 ft
Tue 13 05:07 8.67 ft 11:04 1.06 ft 17:17 8.77 ft 23:25 0.41 ft
Wed 14 05:46 8.80 ft 11:47 0.99 ft 17:59 8.62 ft
Thu 15 00:05 0.49 ft 06:28 8.87 ft 12:31 0.98 ft 18:43 8.41 ft
Fri 16 00:47 0.64 ft 07:12 8.89 ft 13:19 1.02 ft 19:31 8.16 ft
Sat 17 01:33 0.83 ft 08:00 8.87 ft 14:12 1.09 ft 20:24 7.92 ft
Sun 18 02:24 1.03 ft 08:53 8.83 ft 15:09 1.14 ft 21:23 7.73 ft
Mon 19 03:21 1.21 ft 09:52 8.83 ft 16:11 1.11 ft 22:28 7.69 ft
Tue 20 04:23 1.31 ft 10:55 8.89 ft 17:16 0.95 ft 23:34 7.83 ft
Wed 21 05:29 1.27 ft 11:58 9.05 ft 18:20 0.67 ft
Thu 22 00:38 8.15 ft 06:35 1.08 ft 13:00 9.28 ft 19:20 0.30 ft
Fri 23 01:39 8.57 ft 07:37 0.80 ft 13:57 9.52 ft 20:16 −0.05 ft
Sat 24 02:34 9.01 ft 08:34 0.52 ft 14:51 9.70 ft 21:07 −0.32 ft
Sun 25 03:26 9.36 ft 09:28 0.31 ft 15:42 9.74 ft 21:56 −0.44 ft
Mon 26 04:15 9.58 ft 10:19 0.23 ft 16:31 9.63 ft 22:42 −0.39 ft
Tue 27 05:03 9.62 ft 11:07 0.31 ft 17:18 9.36 ft 23:27 −0.16 ft
Wed 28 05:49 9.48 ft 11:54 0.54 ft 18:04 8.94 ft
Thu 29 00:10 0.22 ft 06:34 9.20 ft 12:40 0.87 ft 18:50 8.43 ft
Fri 30 00:54 0.72 ft 07:19 8.81 ft 13:27 1.26 ft 19:38 7.88 ft
Sat 31 01:37 1.26 ft 08:05 8.38 ft 14:16 1.65 ft 20:28 7.35 ft
Browse all surfing articles:

SURFING COSTA RICA
Skimboarding
Acrobatics
of the
Fearless
SURF FEATURE
Article and photos: Perry Carlile
Location: Playa Prieta, Guanacaste

Skimboarding originated in
southern California, when
Laguna Beach lifeguards
wanted to surf the local shore
breaks that were too fast and
shallow for surfboards. It has
developed into a sport of riding
waves much like surfing. The
fearless perform aerial maneuvers
and pull into the barrel of the
wave riding them back to shore.
Professionals have even started
getting towed by waverunners into
much larger waves.
The board used for skimming is
much smaller without fins. Pitching
the thin board down on the water
surface, the rider glides across the
surface in the attempt to meet an
incoming wave and ride it back to
shore.
It’s amazing the maneuvers
these skimboarders perform.
Surface and air maneuvers, at
various stages of their ride, out to,
and back are just some examples. It
is fun watching as they do “wraps,”
“big spins,” “360 shove-its” and
“180s.”
Another aspect of skimboarding
is “flatland,” which involves
performing tricks derived from
skateboarding such as ollies and
shove-its on the wash of waves
without catching shore breaks.
Cristobal Loria
Give it a try! Take some time and
enjoy the acrobatics of the fearless.

SURFING COSTA RICA
Kelly Vallejos
SURF FEATURE

Arturo Moreno Luna
Arturo Moreno Luna
Jeyson Gomes Sandoval
Jean Paz

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Your Life

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Death and Dying
in Costa Rica
Where Religious Tradition Meets Practical Necessity
by Mary Martin
Mason
Adapted by the
author from her
article published
in Atenas Today,
October 2015
Funeral and burial practices in Costa
Rica differ widely from those of western
cultures. As Catholics by tradition, Costa
Ricans believe the soul leaves the body at the
moment of death so the deceased needs to be
left alone to decompose. Embalming is rarely
done, so immediate internment is necessary.
Bodies may be stacked in graves and later
moved to accommodate more bodies. This too
is associated with revering the departed soul
over their mortal remains.
For insight, here is an overview of typical
funeral events following the death of a Costa
Rican community member.
A vela, something akin to a wake, is taking
place in Funeraria Atenas for an elderly
woman who died the night before at the
local clinic. Family members and friends are
viewing her body in a chair-filled room, lifting
their small children in attendance to view her.
The children gaze without fear into the face of
the lady.
Hearing the news
As is traditional, this woman’s body has not
been embalmed so burial, by necessity, must
occur as soon as possible. Friends and family
learned of her death through word of mouth. If
she had been a woman of means, her obituary
would have been printed in La Nación. A news
announcement was aired on television as
happens several times daily when Ticos stop
everything and look up at the screen to see if
someone they know has died. Family members
have been at Funeraria Atenas all night,
dressing and preparing the deceased woman’s
body.
For this funeral, the cause of death was
determined by attending doctors at the clinic,
so there was no need for an autopsy. In cases
of accidental death or suicide, or if there is
any question of cause, the police must be
called, and most probably an autopsy must be
performed by a pathologist.
CULTURAL HERITAGE
By law, at least one
family member must
be present at the
time the remains are
removed.

If someone elderly dies in the night of
what appears to be natural causes, discovered
the following morning by family members, a
doctor cannot pronounce the cause of death.
Anyone dying outside a hospital must undergo
an autopsy. The death certificate must be
signed by someone in authority to provide the
cause of death.
A back room of Funeraria Atenas holds an
array of caskets with cards listing the price,
which includes flowers and transportation of
the body to the church and from the church to
the cemetery. The caskets are made narrow to
fit into the limited grave spaces — 25 inches
wide (three inches less than the standard
North American casket), but a casket can be
made to accommodate a larger person.
If we were to follow our recently deceased,
immediately after the vela, her casket covered
with flowers will be taken in a hearse to the
church for a mass. At the end of the mass the
family will announce the time and place when
the novena — nine days of prayers — will begin.
Then the pallbearers will carry the closed
coffin, followed by those attending the funeral,
on a long somber walk from the church, blocks
away to the Atenas cemetery. Townspeople not
in attendance will purposely clear the town
square to ease traffic for the procession. since
police do not provide traffic assistance.

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
What Circle of Hell is This?
ATM a Dangerous Predator
by Mary Martin Mason
Originally published by
Mango Musings on May 12, 2021
The circle of life so often depicted on the
National Geographic Channel happens
daily in Costa Rica. Toucans rob other
birds’ nests and devour their little ones. Despite
their reputation as herbivores, iguanas eat baby
mice. Crocodiles consume people and iguanas.
Ants line up with their grocery carts on my
patio and take away my beautiful flora. Of the
200 mammalian species here, half are bats
that nosh on insects. But the most dangerous
predator of all, as I have learned on several
occasions, is the ATM.
The process of using an Automatic Teller
Machine appears straightforward. Here in
Costa Rica, after standing in line, innocents
enter a kiosk that houses the ATM. Once inside,
after your card enters into the slot and is “read,”
a series of prompts appear on the screen with
questions such as whether you prefer English
or Spanish and the kind of account you hold.
Next you are directed to enter your PIN.
That accomplished, you punch in the desired
amount in colones or dollars and if you require
a receipt. The ATM warns that a fee “may”
be imposed or with some ATMs, the ransom
required is automatically revealed. Simple,
right?
SURVIVING CR

Recently, I did a successful transaction,
being rewarded with the colones that
I immediately deposited in my purse.
Unfortunately, I foolishly decided to tempt fate
and do a second withdrawal of funds. Maybe I
was distracted by the new feature of a Latina
Alexa who was repeating the prompts in a
language remotely resembling English. Maybe
it was the nanosecond limit required to retrieve
and then reinsert the card before beginning
a new transaction. Perhaps it was payback
for some horrible sin in my past. Here’s what
happened in real time to my debit card.
No prompts appear after I insert the card
for a second withdrawal. The lady speaking
Croatian is silent. No matter how many times
I punch CANCELAR, nothing happens. Nada.
Nada. Nada. The hungry ATM has devoured
the lifeline to fund my opulent lifestyle.
In horror, I exit to inform the queue outside
of my plight, shouting, “¡Perdi mi tarjeta! ¡Perdi
mi tarjeta!” The folks in line feign sympathy
about one of the numerous inconveniences that
comprise the landscape. They direct me to go
to the bank that owns and operates this ATM. I
make my way to the center of town.
Currently, Costa Rica is experiencing a
Dickensian “worst of times.” The retrieval of
lost cards by the guards who regularly service
the ATM is no longer a daily occurrence. The
lockdown in the Central Valley of Costa Rica
is due to having more COVID-19 cases than
hospital beds. Both religious and non-religious
are to blame. Some families over-celebrated
Semana Santa (Holy Week) with huge
gatherings. Others continue to hold parties that
resemble nightclubs when shown on television
as the policia round up the offenders. Added to
this is a gruelingly slow vaccination process.
With newly imposed health restrictions,
only essential services are provided, banks
belonging to that category. The bank, when
I arrive, has lines branching out in two
directions. The guard saves me the wait, saying
to return on Friday, the day the ATM is emptied
of what I assume to be a butt load of credit and
debit cards. Alas, it is only Monday!
The hungry ATM
has devoured the
lifeline to fund my
opulent lifestyle.

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
PASSION FOR TRAVEL
LEADS HERE TO STAY
It all began many years ago when my wife Nadene and I started
travelling. We spent a few years exploring different Spanishspeaking
countries including Mexico, Belize, Colombia, Panama,
Nicaragua and Costa Rica.
LIFESTYLE FEATURE
Sponsored content
Photo courtesy of Tres Amigos Realty Group

Some of our good friends sold everything
they owned in Canada and moved to
Costa Rica, so we decided to plan a trip to
Playas del Coco to see what had attracted
them to the area. We saw how exceptional
Guanacaste really was, and in particular
Playas del Coco. There was no doubt about
it; we were hooked. After years of searching,
we knew Costa Rica was going to be our new
home.
Now that we call Costa Rica home, we
realize how much we love the relaxed pura
vida lifestyle and the feeling we get when
we return to this country after one of our
many travel excursions. We always have the
sense of “Ahh, we’re home.” Nadene and I
have a passion for travel and love exploring
the many beautiful sights around this area of
Central America.
Playas del Coco is the perfect location
to use as a base because of the numerous
attractions and adventures within an hour’s
drive. We never get bored and are always on
the go. One of our passions is to take off on
a motorcycle adventure. Our BMW F800GS
fits the bill. Sometimes our friends join us
for day trips to the mountains or to explore
beach towns like Tamarindo, Flamingo,
Nosara, Samara, Santa Teresa and as far
away as Golfito. We’re always on the hunt
for dirt tracks in the back bush, which we
usually find around the many volcanoes in
Costa Rica.
View from Mariner’s Point

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
There was no doubt about it; we were hooked.
My other passion....
Selling real estate in Costa Rica isn’t
what I would call work. I have way too much
fun meeting new people and showing them
our little piece of paradise. I am proud to
be associated with the Tres Amigos Realty
Group, undeniably the best real estate team
in Guanacaste.
Selling real estate in the Playas del
Coco area for 12 years has given me the
experience and expertise to help you buy
or sell your property. I’m affiliated with
the Costa Rica Global Association of
REALTORS (CRGAR), where I became
a CRGAR-Licensed REALTOR. I’m also
a member of The National Association
of REALTORS (NAR), which sets a high
standard for honesty and ethics in real
estate transactions, two things I value above
all else.
Let me help you find your piece of
paradise regardless of budget. Costa Rica
has everything from a small condo in a great
community to a spectacular ocean view
dream home, and everything in between. It
has it all.
It’s time to visit me in Costa Rica. Once
you fall in love with this incredible country
like I did, you won’t want to leave.
Please take a minute to check out my
website at: www.livingthedreamcostarica.
com
For vacation rentals, Nadene would be
happy to assist you. CLICK HERE for her
website.
‘Ahh, we’re home’
LIFESTYLE FEATURE
Roland Tipper
rolandtipper@gmail.com
www.livingthedreamcostarica.com
www.playasdelcocoproperty.com
Direct Number: +1 (206) 905-9948
Cell: +1 (506) 8371-1522

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS AND IMPROVING LIFESTYLES
ONE CLIENT AT A TIME
COVERING THE ENTIRE PAPAGAYO REGION
Playas del Coco Playa Hermosa Playa Panama
www.playasdelcocoproperty.com www.tresamigos-cr.com prestigecostaricaproperties.com
2670-2175 2672-4100 2670-2175

PURA VIDA/CR LIVING
Anatomy of a
Costa Rican
Dream Home
Four Pro Perspectives
by Norm Schriever
BUILDING FEATURE

For those of you who make the life-changing move
down to Costa Rica, at some point your thoughts turn
to buying a home. And for those intrepid expats who
want to really squeeze the marrow out of life in paradise,
that may include purchasing property and building their
dream house.
It’s certainly a dream I’ve had, constructing a
rugged-yet-modern bungalow on a well-jungled hill
that meanders down to the ocean. There, I can lie on
my hammock by the infinity pool, sipping on a Flor de
Caña con ginger ale as I watch yet another painted pastel
sunset.
Once we start the process of planning our dream
home, the imagination takes flight. A house that almost
completely opens up to the outdoors? A tree in the center
of your foyer? An outdoor shower under the stars? A
swing in the middle of your living room? The possibilities
are nearly endless.
However, we also can’t forgo the practical. There’s a
whole lot more to think about (and get right) than when
we buy a home in our native countries. So, to gain some
insight into building your dream home in Costa Rica, I
enlisted the help of four renowned architects, designers
and builders who live and work in the land of pura vida.
Enjoy this brief Q and A with these experts about the
anatomy of a dream home.
“We should attempt to bring nature, houses,
and human beings together in a higher unity.”
— Ludwig Mies van der Rohe

PURA VIDA/CR LIVING
María de Guadalupe Montero
Hailing from the ultra-cosmopolitan
scene in San José, Maria de Guadalupe
attended Universidad Veritas to study
architecture. She went on to work at
highly-esteemed PIASA Consultores as
well as VOID Architecture.
Email: gmonteror.arq@gmail.com
How would you define traditional Costa Rica
architecture?
After Costa Rica was colonized, our
culture — and therefore our style — was
greatly influenced by what other big
cities were developing. We often took
the language of foreign architecture
and translated it into our own, but with
concessions for our climate, available
resources, etc.
Therefore, the Costa Rican architectural
aesthetic can be quite diverse, from weird
finds like beautiful Victorian houses in
the center of San José to stern concrete
buildings influenced by the Soviets during
the Cold War.
Jake Magnus
Australian architect, designer, and
creative catalyst, Jake Magnus started
working in Costa Rica with the iconic John
Osborne in his studio, Osarq. Recently,
Jake launched his own creative studio,
Tierra Perma, where he focuses on clients
with ecological/social ethical agendas.
Visit www.jakemagnus.com
What one word would you use to define
Costa Rica architectural style?
Tropical. Our climate allows us a great
freedom that is not possible in many parts
of the world.
Architecture here is defined by a desire
to enjoy and experience our environment,
even questioning what is “inside” and
“outside.” Therefore, most projects feature
open-plan and open-air living with a strong
connection and relationship to the natural
surroundings.
BUILDING FEATURE
Photo courtesty of Tres Amigo Realty
View from Villa Vista Azul, Ocotal Bay
Feel free to contact Jake, Mel
questions or want help buildi

Melissa Araya
CFIA-registered architect and co-founder
of AVarq Studio, one of the most innovative
architecture firms in Costa Rica, Melissa Araya
stands at the intersection between art and
technology. She focuses on creating a connection
with the environment when designing a home.
Visit avarq.net
How do you account for the natural elements here
in Costa Rica that the typical homeowner may not
think about?
Natural elements are the primary basis of my
designs. For instance, one of the most important
considerations is the type of soil existing on the
lot. By conducting a soil study, I can then define
the type of foundation, drainage, filtration for
septic tanks and water absorption tolerances.
I also consider the solar path, wind direction,
ventilation and existing vegetation in order
to design a unique environment that is totally
coupled to its natural conditions.
Tom Terry
Owner of ConstrucTom, Tom Terry
arrived in Costa Rica from California
by sailboat in 1992. He has lived here
ever since, building at least 60 homes
and structures from San Juan del Sur to
Playa Langosta and all over the Papagayo
Peninsula.
Visit www.constructom.com
What elements do a lot of your clients want?
Are there certain trends?
The clients I’ve built for the last 27 years
here in Costa Rica have varied greatly, but
one thing they all tend to desire is a home
that opens up to the environment and
delivers an epic view. There’s a saying in
my field that a home is only as good as its
view at sunset!
Those are things the client or homeowner may
not notice at first but are paramount!
issa, or Tom if you have further
ng your dream home!

D
ca
What elements do a lot of your clients want? Are there certain tren
The clients I’ve built for the last 27 years here in Costa Rica have varied
thing they all tend to desire is a home that opens up to the environment
view. There’s a saying in my field that a home is only as good as its view

esigned By Cañas Arquitectos
nasarquitectos.com
ds?
greatly, but one
and delivers an epic
at sunset! - Tom

PURA VIDA/LIVING CR
English and Spanish
Connect With
the Spirit of Water
A 21-Day Proposal to Purify and Heal
by Laura Méndez
MINDFULNESS
Water heals. Water offers
us the purest of the
medicines and its power
is subtle and deep.
This is an intimate and simple
proposal: for 21 days we honor
the water of life as a purifying and
healing force of body, mind and
spirit. This personal practice brings
awareness that we are a network
united by the same intention.
A friend who is also a medicine
man shared this water ceremony
with me. Upon waking in the
morning, the first thing I do is to
prepare myself a glass of water. I go
outside — preferably with bare feet
on the ground — and holding that
glass of water I pray to her. I ask for
what I want that day. Sometimes
it’s specific and other times broader
or even vague. Sometimes I pray
for people in need, sometimes for
nature.
When I’m done, I drink that
water, thus drinking my prayers.
So I’m proposing this for us to do
collectively during the following 21
days.
Before drinking our water in
the morning, take time to open an
intimate space with water.
1. Prepare our glass with water.
2. Connect with the spirit of
water.
3. Hold our glass with both hands
near our heart.
4. Make sure we set up the
intention of purification and
pray to the water.
5. Sing to the water, if it
resonates with us.
6. With all our heart we ask water
to remove all toxic information
from our cells.
We drink our water slowly, each
sip consciously. We do so to:
• Connect with the healing
power of water.
• Listen to messages.
• Heal our wounds.

When I’m done,
I drink that water,
thus drinking my
prayers.

PURA VIDA/LIVING CR
• Open the channel through which our
emotions flow to eliminate what is not, and
welcome what is.
• Honor our water.
• Take care of our body.
• Nurture our soul.
• Take care of our roots.
• Connect with the source of life in us.
• Take the strength of our ancestors.
• Feel the eternal bond that unites us and
remains.
• Remember our essence.
• Take care of our sovereignty.
Know that we are doing this collectively, raising
the awareness towards this life-giving element in
which all life has begun.
To close the ceremony we say thank you.
• “Water of reconciliation, you who unite
everything, you, who both inside and outside
sustain us in life, we honor you.”
• “Thank you water, for being the unifying
thread of our life, memory of our lineage.
You are our blood, the voice of those who
gave us life, the voice of those who left. You,
who are the continuity of existence in the
heart of love, we honor you.”
• “Water of life, may your memory help us
remember how to love each other, how
to unite. May your healing power heal
our wounds, our fear, our pain. May your
wisdom inspire us and help us reconcile
with the pain of loss, with what has gone,
with what is leaving.”
I will share a few prayers you can also use.
• ¨For the purification of the waters of our
planet, and the purification on the waters of
our bodies, thank you, thank you, thank you¨

SHOPPING ONLINE
IN THE USA
CONTACTS
Tamarindo: 8676-2213 • tamarindo@libertyexpress.cr
Nosara: 8628-2441 • nosara@libertyexpress.cr
Playa Hermosa: 7130-0485 • playahermosa@libertyexpress.cr
AUTHORIZED AGENT

by Rick Philps
Water Availability
WHY IS IT A MAJOR CONCERN WHEN BUILDING?
When considering building a home in
Costa Rica, you might expect water
availability to be the least of your
concerns. After all, it’s a tropical country with
bountiful rainfall in the wet season. How could
there be any issues relating to potable water
supply? Unfortunately, in many parts of the
country, this cannot be taken for granted. The
availability of potable water will equal, if not
exceed, your concern for a suitable building
location, particularly in the dryer parts of the
country.
The requirement to conduct legal due
diligence regarding potable water availability
in a chosen building site cannot be overstated.
Proprietary rights vested in the state
In Costa Rica, the proprietary right to
manage and allocate the country’s potable
water reserves is vested in the state. The main
governmental water regulatory authority
is known as AyA — short for “Acueductos y
Alcantarillados”, or in English, Water and
Sewer Systems. This is the mother water
regulatory body for the management and
distribution of water in Costa Rica.
BUSILDING CR
Unfortunately,
many
otherwise
suitable
building sites
fail for the
want of
legal access to
potable water.

Community-based water regulatory
associations known as ASADAS — short
for “Asociaciones Administradoras de los
Sistemas de Acueductos y Alcantarillados
Comunales” — exist in many urbanized rural
parts of the country. They manage local water
systems in their local area of jurisdiction, but
are subordinate to the jurisdiction of AyA.
Private wells are granted by government
concession and registered in the national
water well registry known as SENARA, short
for “Servicio Nacional de Aguas Subterráneas,
Riego y Avenamiento.” They exist on individual
private properties, where permitted by
MINAE, the Ministry of the Environment. In
dryer parts of the country, such as Guanacaste
province, private drilling of wells is prohibited
in many areas.
Letter required for municipal building permit
In order to obtain a building permit from
the municipality that has jurisdiction over
your intended building location, you must
provide an official letter of authority from the
applicable local water regulatory authority.
Alternatively, you need proof of a registered
well concession having been granted for
private property, indicating there will be a
suitable source of potable water available for
the intended construction.
This letter of authority must be submitted
to the municipality, along with a set of
architect-approved building plans, at the time
of the building permit application. Normally,
at the time of purchase, the purchaser would
request such a letter of authority from the
building lot seller as a part of the required
due diligence. If not, it is imperative that the
buyer’s due diligence demonstrates, at the
time of purchase, that such a letter of authority
will be available when the building permit
application is made.
My opinion
Unfortunately, many otherwise suitable
building sites fail for the want of legal
access to potable water. In my opinion,
although difficult to regulate, rainwater
capture for the independent potable water
source of a particular property would be a
solution in many situations when water is
unavailable from traditional sources. To date,
municipalities have not recognized rainwater
capture as a viable alternative source of
potable water for issuing a building permit.

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RENTAL
PROPERTIES
Taxes and Formal Duties
by Ivan Granados
With the substantial number of rental properties in Costa Rica, it is important
for owners who rent their properties out to be aware of, and be reminded of,
legal changes that were effective in 2018. In addition, changes to the Ley de
Fortalecimiento de las Finanzas Públicas (Law #9635) came into effect in 2019.
LEGAL EASE
Per the resolution N° DGT-R-012-2018,
the CR tax authorities established the
mandatory use of the electronic invoice
system for all taxpayers, including real
estate rentals, starting September 1, 2018.
Non-compliant rental property owners are
subject to a penalty and fines.
Before the approval of the Law #9635,
the applicable income tax was calculated
on the company’s annual profit: income,
less expenses, within the fiscal year. These
income taxes were filed annually through a
D-101 form and long-term rentals were not
taxed with Value Added Tax (VAT).
With approval of the Law #9635, income
tax on rental properties will now be filed
monthly through a D-125 form. The law
allows that:
1. 15% of expenses from the rental
income can be without proof.
2. This creates a tax base of 85% from
the rental income.
3. The tax rate is 15% of the tax base
(85% of rental income).
Residential rentals will be taxed 13%
VAT if the rent amount exceeds 1.5 the
average Costa Rica base salary income
(around USD $1,085). Any commercial
leases are subject to the VAT regardless of
the amount of the monthly rent.
Monthly, property owners must
withhold, file and pay VAT using the D-104
tax form: 13% of the rental income paid by
the renter. Also monthly, the owners must
file and pay income tax via form D-125 tax
as outlined above. For example:
• Renter pays $2,000 USD for rental,
plus 13% VAT = $260
• Expenses allowed by law 15% of rental
income = $300
• Tax base = $1,700
• Income tax to be paid = $255 ($1,700 x
15%)

Employer requirements
There is one exception that will allow
taxpayers to continue annual tax filing
(form D-101). They must have an employee
on the payroll that is duly registered in both
Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social (CCSS,
or social security) and Instituto Nacional
de Seguros” (INS, or workers compensation
insurance). This can be evaluated in each
case due to the labor liabilities.
These obligations relating to legal
employees are worth mentioning:
1. Associated payroll taxes are around
28% of the employee’s gross salary.
2. Workers compensation is, on average,
2% depending on the job description.
3. The Christmas bonus — Aguinaldo —
is mandatory on an annual basis. It is
1/12th of the total gross salary.
4. Two weeks paid vacation is also
mandatory
The list above covers very basic
payroll requirements. A registration form,
including copies of the employee’s ID, must
be submitted within eight days of hiring a
new employee to avoid fines and penalties
before CCSS and INS.
It is highly advisable to have a written
labor agreement that details salary, hours,
work description and all other relevant
matters.
It is important to fully understand
the tax and labor laws relating to renting
property and hiring personnel for a rental
property, such as a maid, housekeeper or
maintenance person. For assistance, we are
at your service at info@gmattorneyscr.com
It is important to fully
understand the tax and
labor laws relating to
renting property.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29

SUMMER VACATION
GAME PLAN
Fun for Kids, Happy for You, Healthy for Your Business
by Joanna Blanco
Welcome, July!
Kids start their long summer vacations,
likely feeling happy and free with the
prospect of no school for six to eight
weeks. But most business-owner parents will
not have the same amount of vacation time. So
that gives us two priorities for the school break:
keep our business going and keep our kids busy.
Here are some ideas that can help make sure
your kids stay active, healthy, and happy.
1. Summer camps
These are great solutions for parents
with full-time jobs, no space in their
office, or young kids that demand
a lot of attention. There may be a
variety of choices around your home
area. Check out each place carefully,
especially regarding safety. Try to find
others who have sent their kids to the
summer camps you have in mind. Ask
for recommendations and answers to
all your questions to make sure it’s the
right place for your kids.

ENTREPRENEUR CR
2. Create a small group and hire a teacher
Some teachers stay in the area for the
summer and work as babysitters. If you
have enough space in your home, consider
inviting one or two of your kids' friends
to create a small group — you can call it
“home summer camp.” The teacher you
hire can prepare an excellent schedule of
fun activities to keep the kids busy. It’s
important to negotiate a reasonable rate
for the group size and number of hours.
3. Create a schedule for your kids
If you can keep your kids at home while
you work, it’s advisable to prepare a
schedule of what they can and cannot do at
certain times of day. Kids today have a lot
of access to electronics and the internet.
So, as a precaution against any misuse
of electronics and internet access, set
the rules: when they are allowed to use
electronic devices and for how long at a
time.
It’s important to actually come up with
a list of activities for your kids that are
great non-electronic alternatives. Let me
suggest some ideas:
• Sport classes
• Art classes
• Cooking classes
• Reading
• Math practice
• Summer journal writing
• Science experiments

• Play dates
• Go around the world — pick
different countries to learn about
As a business owner, I need to continue with
my work responsibilities. However, during the
summer, I like to give myself extra time to be
with my kid.
That is why I follow these few steps:
1. Every Sunday, I prepare my schedule
for the week ahead.
2. Start work earlier each day — at least
30 minutes — to advance essential
tasks.
3. Confirm all client visits or calls during
times when my kid is at summer camp
or attending a class.
4. Do grocery shopping for the next two
weeks.
5. Cook for more than one meal at a time
— enough for today and tomorrow, or
freezer portions. Get my kid involved in
the cooking.
6. Don’t skip my regular physical activity.
I schedule it for early morning before
my kid wakes up, while she is at camp
or in a class, or when we can do it
together.
7. Have time to relax and have fun with
my kid. It’s vacation time, and I want to
enjoy it too!
I am pleased to share these links to help you plan a fun summer for your kids:
Smart Summer Activities For Kids | POPSUGAR Family
Summer Bucket List For Kids | POPSUGAR Family
Summer Crafts for Kids | Parents
The Best Nature Crafts for Kids | Martha Stewart
For more detailed information or any help,
please contact me at any time:
joannablanco@vivesattva.com
and follow me on Facebook and Instagram
Remember to make
sure your own schedule
includes “have fun!”

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