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Kurt Ulmer empfängt mich in seinem Loft Office in St. Moritz und ...

Kurt Ulmer empfängt mich in seinem Loft Office in St. Moritz und ...

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SOME-<br />

THING<br />

NEW<br />

<strong>Kurt</strong> <strong>Ulmer</strong> <strong>empfängt</strong> <strong>mich</strong> <strong>in</strong> se<strong>in</strong>em <strong>Loft</strong> <strong>Office</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong> <strong>und</strong> erzählt gutgelaunt von se<strong>in</strong>em neuen Projekt. Sie haben vor gut 3 1/2 Jahren Ihr Unternehmen<br />

nach 35 Jahren Erfolg mit Sport- <strong>und</strong> Skiwear verkauft. Was bewegt Sie, wieder von “Gro<strong>und</strong> Zero” zu beg<strong>in</strong>nen. Es liegt <strong>in</strong> me<strong>in</strong>en Genen, immer wieder etwas<br />

Neues zu bewegen. Ich brauche dauernd e<strong>in</strong>en Challenge, b<strong>in</strong> nie befriedigt <strong>und</strong> versuche immer etwas besser zu machen. Es ist me<strong>in</strong> Motor, <strong>mich</strong> nach vorne zu<br />

br<strong>in</strong>gen.<br />

Sie haben Grosses erreicht <strong>in</strong> der Sportswear Fashion <strong>und</strong> Akzente gesetzt. Trotzdem - brauchen Sie noch etwas zu beweisen? Klar, ich könnte <strong>mich</strong> zurücklehnen,<br />

denken ich hab es aufs Podest geschafft. Das wäre gefährliches Denken. Die meisten Leute <strong>in</strong> me<strong>in</strong>em Alter s<strong>in</strong>d <strong>in</strong> Pension - beschäftigen sich <strong>in</strong> ihren Gärten, gehen<br />

mit Hündchen spazieren oder sitzen <strong>in</strong> der Kneipe. Das mag zwar nicht falsch se<strong>in</strong>, <strong>in</strong>teressiert <strong>mich</strong> jedoch nicht. So wird der Altersprozess rapide beschleunigt. Ich<br />

denke nicht ans alt werden. Durch die Fashion Szene b<strong>in</strong> ich immer im Umfeld von jungen Kreativen. Da ist Dynamik <strong>und</strong> Power, Spass <strong>und</strong> Freude am Leben. Das<br />

gibt mir den Kick weiterzumachen. Me<strong>in</strong> Ego muss ich nicht mehr befriedigen.<br />

Sie s<strong>in</strong>d e<strong>in</strong> typischer “Selfmade Man”. Was haben Sie ursprünglich gelernt? Banker


Wie kommen Sie dann <strong>in</strong> die Mode? Es war mir von Anfang an klar, dass me<strong>in</strong>e Zukunft nicht im “Bank<strong>in</strong>g” liegt. Zu wenig aufregend. Ich wollte selbständig se<strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>und</strong> erfolgreich werden. Nach 4-jähriger Banktätigkeit versuchte ich es mit Ski Rac<strong>in</strong>g: zu m<strong>in</strong>im jedoch der Erfolg, aber es brachte <strong>mich</strong> an Sportmessen. Me<strong>in</strong> Interesse<br />

an der Sportmode war geweckt <strong>und</strong> 1969 eröffnete ich am Dorfrand von <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong> me<strong>in</strong>en ersten Sports-Fashion <strong>St</strong>ore. Kurz danach weitere <strong>St</strong>ores <strong>und</strong> 1973<br />

me<strong>in</strong>e eigenen Skiwear Modelle für me<strong>in</strong>e Shops. Der schnell zunehmende Aufschwung hat mir viel Power <strong>und</strong> Spass gegeben.<br />

Warum wieder e<strong>in</strong>e Skiwear Kollektion? KRU ist eigentlich noch ke<strong>in</strong>e totale Skiwear Kollektion. Es werden hauptsächlich Daunen Jacken se<strong>in</strong>. Ich liebe <strong>und</strong> trage<br />

Daunen Jacken seit ich 17 b<strong>in</strong>. Damals gesehen bei Toni Sailer <strong>und</strong> ich musste unbed<strong>in</strong>gt e<strong>in</strong>e haben. Gef<strong>und</strong>en habe ich sie <strong>in</strong> e<strong>in</strong>em Geschäft für Extrem Bergsteiger<br />

<strong>in</strong> München. Da ich im heutigen Marktangebot nichts f<strong>in</strong>de was <strong>mich</strong> begeistert, hat <strong>mich</strong> der Teufel wieder geritten, denn ich will die Jacken so haben wie sie mir<br />

gefallen - mit <strong>St</strong>il, Funktion, speziellen Materialien <strong>und</strong> Details. Cool <strong>und</strong> Tough - ke<strong>in</strong> Schicki-Micki.<br />

Gibt es diesen W<strong>in</strong>ter schon die grosse Kollektion? Ne<strong>in</strong>, KRU soll limitiert <strong>und</strong> exklusiv se<strong>in</strong> - für den modernen Individualisten, welcher e<strong>in</strong>e Alternative zum<br />

heutigen Skiwear-Angebot sucht. Wo ist KRU diesen W<strong>in</strong>ter erhältlich? Natürlich <strong>in</strong> unserem eigenen Fashion <strong>St</strong>ore JOY <strong>in</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong>, plus an den besten Adressen<br />

<strong>in</strong> Gstaad, Verbier, Zermatt, Aspen, Vail <strong>und</strong> Sun Valley. Was ist Ihr nächstes Projekt? Easy, easy, im Moment noch KRU weiter entwickeln. Es wird sicher e<strong>in</strong> «Nächstes»<br />

geben. Danke für das Gespräch<br />

<strong>Kurt</strong> <strong>Ulmer</strong> welcomes me <strong>in</strong> his lofty office <strong>in</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong> to chat about his new project. After 35 years of success with sports and ski wear you sold your bus<strong>in</strong>ess<br />

some three and a half years ago. What is your motivation to start aga<strong>in</strong> from “gro<strong>und</strong> zero”? It is <strong>in</strong> my genes to move new th<strong>in</strong>gs all the time. I need a challenge,<br />

I am never satisfied and I always try to do th<strong>in</strong>gs better. It is what drives me to get on top.<br />

You have achieved great th<strong>in</strong>gs and po<strong>in</strong>ted the way <strong>in</strong>to future <strong>in</strong> the area sportswear fashion. However – do you still need to prove yourself? Sure, I could lean<br />

back and th<strong>in</strong>k that I made it to the top. But that is a dangerous way of th<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g. Most people my age enjoy their retirement – they take care of their gardens, walk<br />

the dog or sit <strong>in</strong> the pub. That might not be wrong, but I am not <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> do<strong>in</strong>g any of it. It just <strong>in</strong>creases the age<strong>in</strong>g process rapidly. I do not th<strong>in</strong>k about age<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

In the fashion scene young and creative people always surro<strong>und</strong> me. That means dynamics and power, fun and enjoy<strong>in</strong>g life. It gives me the kick to cont<strong>in</strong>ue. I do<br />

not need to satisfy my ego anymore.


You are the typical “self-made man”. What was your orig<strong>in</strong>al profession? Banker.<br />

How did you get <strong>in</strong>volved with fashion then? I knew from the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g that my future was not <strong>in</strong> the bank<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dustry. Not excit<strong>in</strong>g enough. I wanted to be selfemployed<br />

and be successful. After four years <strong>in</strong> the bank<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dustry I tried ski rac<strong>in</strong>g; with limited success, but it <strong>in</strong>troduced me to sport fairs. My <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> sports<br />

fashion was awoken and <strong>in</strong> 1969 I opened my first sports fashion store at the outskirts of <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong>. More stores followed and 1973 I <strong>in</strong>troduced my own skiwear<br />

models for my shops. The upturn has resulted <strong>in</strong> lots of power and joy for me.<br />

Why another skiwear collection? KRU is not really a complete skiwear collection. It ma<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>in</strong>cludes Down Jackets. I love and have been wear<strong>in</strong>g them s<strong>in</strong>ce I was<br />

17 years old. I saw them at Toni Sailer’s back then and I wanted one so badly! I eventually fo<strong>und</strong> one <strong>in</strong> a shop for extreme mounta<strong>in</strong>eers <strong>in</strong> Munich. S<strong>in</strong>ce I do not<br />

f<strong>in</strong>d anyth<strong>in</strong>g I like <strong>in</strong> today’s market, I thought I go for it, because I want the jackets to be exactly the way I imag<strong>in</strong>e – with style, functionality, special materials and<br />

details. Cool and tough – no trendy stuff.<br />

Will you offer the big collection for everyone this w<strong>in</strong>ter? No, KRU is a limited and exclusive brand – for the modern <strong>in</strong>dividualist who is look<strong>in</strong>g for alternatives<br />

to today’s skiwear models.<br />

Where can I buy KRU this w<strong>in</strong>ter? Of course <strong>in</strong> our own fashion store JOY <strong>in</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong>, plus at the best addresses <strong>in</strong> Gstaad, Verbier, Zermatt, Aspen, Vail and Sun<br />

Valley.<br />

What is your next project? Easy, easy, at the moment I want to further develop KRU. However, there will surely be a “next project”. Thank you for the <strong>in</strong>terview!<br />

<strong>Kurt</strong> <strong>Ulmer</strong> mi accoglie nel suo ufficio loft di <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong> e di buon umore mi racconta del suo nuovo progetto. Da ormai ben 3 anni e mezzo ha venduto la sua<br />

azienda dopo 35 anni di successi nel settore dell’abbigliamento sportivo e da sci. Cosa l’ha portata a ricom<strong>in</strong>ciare dal “Gro<strong>und</strong> Zero”. E’ nei miei geni voler<br />

sempre creare qualcosa di nuovo. Sono costantemente determ<strong>in</strong>ato a raccogliere le sfide, non sono mai soddisfatto e cerco sempre di migliorarmi <strong>in</strong> ciò che faccio.<br />

E’ questo il motore che mi sp<strong>in</strong>ge <strong>in</strong> avanti.


Lei ha raggiunto obiettivi ambiziosi nel settore della moda sportiva affermando nuovi trend. E tuttavia ha ancora il desiderio di dimostrare qualcosa? Certo, potrei<br />

rilassarmi pensando di aver ormai raggiunto il podio. Questo sarebbe un modo di pensare rischioso. La maggior parte delle persone della mia età è <strong>in</strong> pensione – si<br />

occupa del suo giard<strong>in</strong>o, passeggia con il cane o passa il tempo al bar. Forse <strong>in</strong> questo non c’è niente di sbagliato, tuttavia non è nella mia ottica di vedere le cose. Così<br />

<strong>in</strong>fatti il processo d’<strong>in</strong>vecchiamento viene accelerato rapidamente. Io non ci penso alla vecchiaia. Grazie al mondo della moda mi muovo sempre <strong>in</strong> un ambiente<br />

giovane e creativo. Qui regnano d<strong>in</strong>amismo e forza, divertimento e gioia di vivere. Tutto ciò mi dà la sp<strong>in</strong>ta per proseguire. Io non ho più bisogno di soddisfare il mio ego.<br />

Lei è il tipico “selfmade man”. Qual è la sua professione <strong>in</strong> realtà? Bancario<br />

Come è avvenuto il salto nella moda? Riconobbi s<strong>in</strong> da pr<strong>in</strong>cipio che il mio futuro non sarebbe stato nel “bank<strong>in</strong>g”. Troppo poco emozionante. Il mio desiderio era<br />

essere <strong>in</strong>dipendente ed avere successo. Dopo 4 anni di attività bancaria cercai la mia strada nello Ski Rac<strong>in</strong>g con un successo troppo modesto, il quale mi ha tuttavia<br />

<strong>in</strong>trodotto nell’ambiente delle fiere sportive. Il mio <strong>in</strong>teresse nei confronti della moda sportiva fu così risvegliato e nel 1969 <strong>in</strong>augurai <strong>in</strong> periferia di <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong> il mio<br />

primo Sport Fashion <strong>St</strong>ore. Da lì a breve seguirono altri store e nel 1973 le mie prime creazioni ski wear per i miei negozi. La rapida crescita mi diede grande forza<br />

e divertimento.<br />

Come mai di nuovo una collezione ski wear? In realtà KRU non è esclusivamente una collezione sci. Si tratterà pr<strong>in</strong>cipalmente di pium<strong>in</strong>i. Io amo e <strong>in</strong>dosso<br />

volentieri pium<strong>in</strong>i da quando avevo 17 anni. Allora li vidi <strong>in</strong>dossati da Toni Sailer e volevo a tutti costi averne uno. Lo trovai a Monaco di Baviera <strong>in</strong> un negozio per<br />

alp<strong>in</strong>isti estremi. Dato che non riesco a trovare nulla che mi entusiasmi <strong>in</strong> ciò che offre oggi il mercato, mi sono lasciato trasportare di nuovo dall’<strong>in</strong>coscienza,<br />

perché le giacche che possiedo devono piacermi – devono avere stile, essere funzionali, con materiali speciali e dettagli. cool and tough – non snob.<br />

Uscirà già quest’<strong>in</strong>verno la grande collezione? No, KRU sarà limitata ed esclusiva – per gli <strong>in</strong>dividualisti moderni che sono alla ricerca di un’alternativa a quella<br />

che è oggi l’offerta ski wear.<br />

Dove sarà possibile trovare KRU quest’<strong>in</strong>verno? Naturalmente nel nostro Fashion <strong>St</strong>ore JOY a <strong>St</strong>. <strong>Moritz</strong>, ma anche presso i migliori <strong>in</strong>dirizzi di Gstaad, Verbier,<br />

Zermatt, Aspen, Vail e Sun Valley.<br />

Qual è il suo prossimo progetto? Easy, easy, al momento semplicemente cont<strong>in</strong>uare a sviluppare KRU. Ci sarà sicuramente un «prossimo» progetto. Grazie per la<br />

piacevole conversazione

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