Pontypool Magazine August

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The Book Corner Book review by Louise Mumford Hungry by Grace Dent Hungry is a memoir about food, class and families and follows the journey of well-known restaurant critic Grace Dent from her working-class childhood home in Carlisle to the multimillion-pound London restaurants that she reviewed. Above all, it is an unsentimental but heart-breaking tribute to the relationship between Grace Dent and her father, George, as he slowly slips out of reach into dementia. In a media career spanning more than two decades, Dent is best known as a restaurant critic and the early part of Hungry revisits the ways in which family life shaped her relationship with food. Ex-soldier George teaches her to cook with Campbell’s tinned soup. If you remember the eighties then this is a loving tribute to the convenience food of that era: families having their tea on their laps watching the television… which only had a few channels to choose from. Hungry is, as you’d expect, very, very funny (“Sadly, Mother’s aim to be posh was thwarted at every turn by our next-door neighbours, who were resolutely common”). There are echoes of Caitlin Moran in her tales of arriving in the world of London glossy magazines, where she is intimidated by sleek girls called Taffeta Flinty-Wimslow who only eat salad. It is, however, in the description of George’s dementia where Dent’s writing really shines and she describes her gnawing grief as the disease strips her father of his memories and personality as well as the small moments of connection that offer a way through. By turns comic, nostalgic and also incredibly sad, Hungry is an exploration of how food binds us together: the meals we take as families, the food shared with friends, the sneaky chocolate bars sneaked into school bags. A book to be devoured.
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Pontypool Magazine August

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