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intrigued by the different ethnic

groups in China and, whenever

a day’s ride ended in a town,

they would head in to look for

food, meet the locals and add

to their experiences.

“We couldn’t read the menu,”

Gaskill said of those excursions.

“We would just point to things

and they would serve us

whatever it was. We had no

idea what we were eating. But

it was fine, we never got sick.

But as soon as we moved into

the Muslim part of China, things

got a bit more difficult as it

happened to be Ramadan. They

weren’t particularly interested in

cooking, and were only cooking

for people who were non-

Muslim. Because of Ramadan,

they were themselves only

eating after sundown.

“As soon as we got to that

part of China, I got sick. I was

sick for months after that. I

would have brief periods where

I would be able to control my

bowels a little better, but it was

pretty bad.”

Gaskill laughs at the memories,

but it was clearly a very tough

time.

“I rode most of the trip, but

I was off the bike for quite a

while too. Probably a total of

two or three weeks in all. When

I was sick, I was really sick.

You’d get a little better, things

were okay, and then I would

get really sick again. When I

was like that I just couldn’t ride.

You are so weak, you can hardly

stand up.”

Cebryk noted that some

sickness wasn’t uncommon on

the trip, but that he and Gaskill

were repeatedly slammed by it.

“Peter and I were sick so much,

they started asking people if

we had Canadian disease,” he

said, cueing laughs from Gaskill.

“That is what they termed our

illness, Canadian disease.

“But we supported each

other, it was just part of our

experience, I guess.”

That support would prove vital,

as things were soon to get a lot

more difficult.

Ilkka

In early July the riders were

nearing the end of their period

in China. They were heading

through the Taklamakan Desert

and were a few hundred

kilometres east of Kashgar,

the last major city before the

border with Kyrgyzstan. Things

had been going relatively well

for the group beforehand,

although some people had

already gone home due to

injuries from crashes.

Bin County Cave Temple, China

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