American World Traveler Winter 2021-22 Issue

IIt seemed as we drove on a wide thoroughfare,
edged by well-tended shrubs
and trees, that we were travelling from
town to town rather than traversing the city of
Muscat, Oman’s capital. All along this boulevard
and its roundabouts, covered with flowers
and greenery, were eye-catching sculptures of
artefacts from Omani history and life. It was
truly an imperial avenue uniting a 40 km (25
mi) spread-out city - inviting in its historic and
modern attractions.
Greater Muscat, with a population of some
600,000, in reality consists of three large
towns: Muscat, Muttrah, Ruwi and their suburbs
- all divided from each other by low hills.
At the southern end is located the old town of
Muscat, a city with an illustrious past.
Overpowered by its scenic ancient forts and
beautiful mosques, it stands, as it has for centuries,
the crown jewel of the Sultanate of
Oman. Unlike almost all the other towns on
the eastern Arabian shores, it does not have
an artificial air, having been for centuries an
important trading centre and an imperial capital.
Poised on lofty crags, guarding the mouth of
its harbour are two recently renovated citadels.
They were built by the Portuguese during their
16th - 17th centuries’ occupation of parts of
Oman’s coast and expanded by the Omanis
after these European invaders were expelled.
Overlooking the walled city, in the midst of
which is located the flamboyant Sultan’s
Palace, stands on one side the Mirani Fort and
on the other the Jalali Fortress, housing a
museum which needs a special permit to visit.
One of the Sultan’s palace guards who was
talking to us as we surveyed the forts,
described them well when he remarked, “Are
they not majestic these fortresses? You know,
they are the symbol of our country.”
For us, it was exciting to explore and savour
the city by foot while we reminisced about its
history. After our tour of this immaculately
clean compact town with its impressive structures,
we stopped a while to photograph the
Sultan’s Palace, seemingly a vision from the
Arabian Nights, then left for Muttrah, 4 km
(2.4 mi) away.
Just before entering Muttrah, the Corniche
and its surroundings, said to be one of the
most beautiful spots in the Arabian Peninsula,
we were struck with a fairytale aura. On the
edge of Riyam Park, dominated by a gigantic
white incense-burner, we stopped awhile to
enjoy the view.
The burner-monument, a very impressive
replica of an artefact which, for centuries, has
been important in Omani life, soared above
the coastal highway - a road seemingly overwhelmed
by the huge colourful flower-urns
dividing the lanes. Like us, first-time travellers
always stop to admire the breathtaking natural
scenery - greatly enhanced by the hand of
man.
I was driving slowly savouring the panorama
when my daughter tapped me on the shoulder,
“Look at that fort! It looks like a storybook
fortress.” I turned my head. Towering above
us was the Portuguese Fort, dominating
Muttrah’s port, which bristled with cargo ships,
modern yachts and dhows (traditional Arab
sailing ships) - all overshadowed by a huge
passenger liner.
We parked our auto on the long sweeping
Corniche, and then walked the seaside
avenue, edged by plaques of fibreglass birds
representing Oman’s wild-life. At the end of
the Corniche, past a fish roundabout, we
stopped to explore the fish souk (market).
One side of the souk housed a fruit and vegetable
section and on the other side was a very
clean, well-stocked fresh fish market.
Crossing over to the other side of the
Corniche, past men playing the ancient
seashell game of hawalis, we walked back
under the shadows of the many architecturally
delightful old merchant houses, dating from
the 19th century. A good number were being
painted sparkling-white or a light beige tonethe
sole colours allowed for the outside of
buildings in Greater Muscat. The only exception
for the use of other colours is for decoration.
There is a governmental law that stipulates
that structures must not look rundown.
Hence, most of Muscat’s buildings always
appear to glow in the sunlight.
At the Bank of Oman, we turned right and
entered Muttrah’s souk - the most interesting
traditional market in the Arab Gulf States. Its
meandering alleyways, sprawling in all directions,
are filled with tiny shops, stocking everything
from stainless steel products to the handiwork
of the Bedouins. Above all, frankincense
and myrrh, traded in Oman since time
immemorial, were on sale everywhere. It was
as if we had walked back into history.
A cruise liner had stopped in Muscat for the
day and its passengers saturated the souk.
Bargaining was impossible. The passengers,
with a few hours to spare, would pay whatever
the merchants asked. My daughter noting
the wide grin on the face of a shopkeeper
whose shop was filled with these sea
travellers, remarked, “He should smile!
63
Look at the money he’s raking in from
these gullible buyers.” It was apparent that in
this venerable Arab trading port, as they have
for centuries, the merchants were still plying
their profitable trade.
From Muscat we drove on the main motorway
until we reached Ruwi - Greater Muscat’s
commercial heart. Here and there along the
thoroughfare, man-made specimens of
Oman’s wildlife like ibex, oryx, and tahr,
lurked- in the roadside vegetation, beautifying
the sides of the road. Soon, we were driving
on Ruwi Souk Street, where it is said ‘everything
sold in Oman can be found’. Here,
merchandise is sold at a lower price than what
we paid after bargaining in Muttrah’s souk.
Leaving Ruwi, we drove on to explore Qurum,
Madinat Qaboos and other newly built sections
of the city. It was a transformed world.
Where a quarter century ago there were no
paved roads, virtually no grass and shrubs or
even water and electrical systems, greenery
now covers the city landscape. Mile after mile
of lush turf, trees and bright flowers beautify
the city - already possessed with the natural
beauty of beaches, mountains and sea.
Thanks to fibreglass, amid all this man-made
natural beauty, there are giant silver-painted
pieces of Omani jewellery, coffee pots, chests
overflowing with treasures, and much more
decorating the sides of the avenues. Hence, it
surprised no one when Muscat came first in
the 1995 ‘Arab Cities Prize Organization
Awards’, winning in the most beautiful city category.
For the last night in this modern city of
Sindbad, we went on an evening’s dhow ride
in the Gulf of Oman. As we sailed along the
coast, in the distance, the glowing lights of
Muscat brought to my mind the city’s illustrious
history. No doubt, Sindbad the Sailor gloried
in its waters since it is said that he was born in
Sohar a short distance away. If Sindbad could
only see Muscat now, it past enhanced with a
garland of superb modernity, he may well
have put his travels on the back burner never
wanting to leave the beauty of this city.
www.visitmusiccity.com
American World Traveler Winter 2021-22