Durable defiance

DURABLE DEFIANCE

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A shoe collection in collaboration

with Ecco

DOUBLE D - DURABLE D

1

2

Team

«Rebel non Rebel»

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9

Sketching

Experimenting

Table of contents

3

Theme

10

Pyramide

4

Persona

11

Colours and

materials

5

Wearing

moments

12

Textile

experiments

6

Sustainable

approach

13

Final Pyramide

7

Moodboard

and Research

14

Prototyping

15

Photoshoot

EFIANCE - DOUBLE D

Team

who are we

‘Double D stands for

Durable Defiance’

For this project we were put in teams of

5 from 4 different departaments. We

didn’t know each other before starting

the project. We shared our strengths

and weaknesses before starting

to work as well as developing a codex

and framework to be able to work in

the best terms and conditions.

Yousra Laissaoui

Exchange student

Industrial Annesofie Bundell

Accessories

Karoline Elsig

Fashion

Kristian Stougaard

Textile

Maria S. Kirk

Industrial

1

Team

Group work

2

Combining skills through diffrent diciplines by confronting different visions and

perspectives and collecting/analyzing the output to bring the puzzle pieces

together

‘ Rebel

non-rebel ’

The story of a rebel often finds its way into movies and books.

The protagonist is typically in the position of «the underdog» and

is fighting authority. James Dean protests his parents’ established

norms in the movie ‘Rebel without a cause’ (1955).

Context

Being a rebel involves not only having

and believing in unpopular views, it is

also about establishing your identity

and making others notice you.

Yet Rebelling today can be so much

more than just standing out from

the pack and thinking contrary.

They inspire & activate us by taking

physical actions because they

think in movements and not just

in attitudes. That is why some of

them become our hero – they turn

on the trigger to start a change.

Design brief

We were assigned to create a concept

of a shoe collection revolving arround

the given theme ‘Rebel non rebel’.

As a starting point for this theme,

we had to consider how this

impulse toward rebellion could

be explored within our concept.

Working the frame from wild to mild.

3

Brainstorming

4

We started to work arround the given theme by brainstorming and sharing

our visions . Giving examples of movements, artists and people. Defining and

understanding the complexity of a rebellion and how we could approach it in

the shoe collection.

‘ Rebelling

against the

unknown ’

Our theme is inspired by survivalists and

preppers, who are rebelling against

the unknown future by preparing themselves

to survive in the anarchy of an

anticipated breakdown of society.

According to the New Yorker, survivalism has “expanded to

more afluent quarters, taking root in Silicon Valley and New

York City.”

Living in a world of sudden changes and

unexpected events, urban mobility may

need to be reconsidered in the case of an

emergency. This mindset of being ready

for natural disasters and politcal or social

disruption is growing. Society needs to learn

how to be self sufficient and respond to

sudden changes by improvising.

The first chapter of the prepper movement

takes place in the 1950s, when the events of

the Cold War created mass paranoia. This

movement evolves to survivalism and in the

1960s, the survivalist movement is linked to

ecology and sustainability movements.

5

Theme visualisation

6

Each team member started collecting visuals revolving arround the theme

of survivalism and preppers. The next step was to sort them out in different

groups and categories, understanding the surrounding landscape as well as

the world we created.

Theme visualisation

Survivalism/preppers


7

We looked at how survivalist are physically preparing themselves for the future

and how they have equpied themeselves for any event. The tools they carry,

the features they own, but also the mindset they live in.

Theme visualisation


Improvising

readjusting

landscape

8

We divided the visuals into 4 keywords; landscape, survivalism/preppers, decision

making and readjusting.

Persona

Description

‘If the world ends, and not even

if the world ends, but if we

have trouble getting contacts or

glasses, it is going to be a huge

pain in the ass ’

Name

Age

Year

Gender

Job

City

Noah

27

2030

Male

Engineer

Amsterdam

Context

Our scenario is situated in 2030. Noah

is a danish 27 y/o man, working in

Amsterdam as an engineer. The world

is less safe in terms of politics, industry,

economy and environment. Natural

disasters are becoming a more common

occurence. Media is constantly sharing big

titles, we live in abundance of informations

all the time. The society is concerned and

survivalsm movement is growing in society.

Backround

Noah grew up in his family as a survivalist.

His parents went throught the cold war

paranoia. He practiced selfdefence since

he was 8 y/o.

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Mindset

Noah is anticipating everything he does.

He is trying to be as independant as

possible and that’s why he moved from

denmark in the first place. He is focusing

on his job because it empowers him to find

solutions to complex problems.

He recently had an eye surgery, not for

appearance but in case society crashes

and glasses will be a hard thing to obtain

Personality

Noah is restless. He wants to be prepared

for all scenarios. He is a problem solver

and likes to improvise and find quick

solutions by adapting and readjusting in

the moment. He makes quick decisions.

Persona

Visualisation

10

In this assignment we are taught to work with a persona instead of a target

group, which means that we have to make up a fictive character with a detailed

profile to understand his needs and lifestyle and then design from there.

Persona

Visualisation

11

We tried to visualise our persona and the univers in where he lives. This allows

us to define his living habits and his personality. We based our research on real

people and interviews that we could find in newspapers about survivalist and

preppers.

Wearing moments

Persona insights

Casual

Going to his job and doing

his daily activities.

Athlesure

In case «SHIT» happens

Emergency situations

12

Noah wants to wear a shoe which makes him feel safe and where he could react

in any situation. Allowing him to adapt to different climates but also act fast.

He doesn’t want leather derbys because it will make it hard for him to run in if

he needs to go, but he still needs a shoe where he can look professional and

Sustainable approach

Process cards

13

We started by discussing DSKDs sustainable design cards. We selected the cards

which illustrated our concept/toughts and were fitting the topics and the way we

wanted to approach it. As the next step we selected the most revelant topics to

focus on and began to personalise them.

Sustainable approach

Instructions folder

14

After working with the sustainable cards we devloped a safety manual to

illustrate the embedded story telling which is the most important part for our

concept. This folder shows the versatility and the multifunctionality of the shoe.

It also comunicates the users own concerns and the solutions that the product

provides.

Concept Visualistation

Emergencies

15

Moodboard and research

Emergencies

16

We did research on emergencies and how they are approached in different

contexts. What makes us feel safe? How is safety visualized? What are the situations

with risks today, and how are they approached? References of Artists and

designers were included in this research.

Sketching process

Group sketching

‘ Sketching is a way of getting

your ideas out on paper,

it’s a process of designing

intuitively and keeping the

ideas flowing ’

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Sketching process

Group sketching

18

We sketched individually 5 to 10 sketches each, in many rounds. After each

round we shared our ideas and built up from each others directions.

It’s nice to lay down everything on the table and see what comes out of the

different stories.

Sketching and Ideation

first round

19


first round

20

Based on the collage and mood board, we started a first round of sketches

trying to find shapes and volumes for our rebel shoe.


Second round

21


Second round

22

For the second round we tried to guide each other by selecting ideas from the

first round, so we could have different options from the same direction.


Imaginative sketches

23

A series of imaginative sketches trying to come up with functional parts for our

rebel shoe. We thought about the hardware and the the tools that could be

added to the shoe and what their functions would be. It is a more conceptual

process to bring new ideas to the table.


Imaginative sketches

24

Feedback from ideas and sketches on how to improve the designs and build

from there.

Shoe kitchen

Experimenting

25

Shoe kitchen

Experimenting

26

Using materials and old shoes we started building up volume and shapes helping

us visualize our ideas and openning up for new directions and possibilities.

Pyramid

Shoe collection

‘ The rebel shoe is the swiss

knife of the collection, it is

overfeatured and has many

functions. It gathers all of the

directions and can respond

to many situations. We

separatly pulled out each

function and adapted it to

the different shoes in the

commercial collection’

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Pyramid

Shoe collection

28

This constitutes a first sketch of the collection as the materials and colors still

have to be fixed after our experiments and try outs.

Colors and Materials

‘ Color and Material is the

conclusion of a complete

product. The choice is the

core of every design, with

out them the design is silent ’

Suzette Henry

29

MaterialsColors MaterialsCol










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Selection

31

32

As a part of the collaboration with ECCO shoes and ECCO leather we were

sponsered with their materials. A material library was at our disposition with a

wide choice of leathers, linings, plastics etc.


Compositions

‘ When it came

to colors we had

one clear vision’

We wanted to create shoes that were

integrated into the univers we created;

grey, dark, desaturated but then clash

them with the life saving colors which are

neon and fresh.

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Compositions

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Color scheme

35


Color scheme

36

We chose a color pallette by defining the complement and accent based on our

concept. We tried different compositions and portions.

Materials

Material samples

37

Materials

Information about textiles

goretex cushioning transparency

neoprene

leather

38

We researched materials which both technically and functionally could fit our

concept. We also looked for materials that were inspired by our moodboard.

Materials

Experimentations

‘ Material development is a fun

process, hands on and experiemental.

It’s a physical translation

from 2d to 3d ’

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Compositions

40

We researched materials which could fit our concept technically as well as fill

the function that we researched. We also looked for materials that were inspired

by our moodboard.


Embossing

41


Embossing

42

Embossing is a technique of leather manipulation. We wanted to create a mysterious

atmosphere using the tools that preppers carry with them and hidding

them within the leather.


Inflatable

43


Inflatable

44

Exploring life saving elements we were inspired by inflatable textures and shapes

that we tried to translate in our shoes by experimenting with clear plastic textile

and sealings.

Textile process

Silkscreen printing

45

Textile process

Frame and visuals

5 Go to your refuge area and await fu

sonnel.

IN CASE OF A FIRE

1 Immediately pull the nearest fire alarm pull station as you exit the

2 When evacuating the building, be sure to feel doors for heat before

them to be sure there is no fire danger on the other side.

3 If there is smoke in the air, stay low to the ground, especially your

reduce inhalation exposure. Keep on hand on the wall to prevent disor

and crawl to the nearest exit.

4 Once away and clear from danger, call your report contact and info

of the fire.

IN CASE OF A

5 Go to your refuge area and await further instructions from emerge

sonnel.

1 First, protect yourself from an Earthq

IN CASE OF A FIRE

1 Immediately pull the nearest fire alarm pull station as you exit the building.

2 When evacuating the building, be sure to feel doors for heat before opening

them to be sure there is no fire danger on the other side.

3 If there is smoke in the air, stay low to the ground, especially your head, to

reduce inhalation exposure. Keep on hand on the wall to prevent disorientation

and crawl to the nearest exit.

4 Once away and clear from danger, call your report contact and inform them

of the fire.

5 Go to your refuge area and await further instructions from emergency personnel.

2 Get to high ground as far inland as p

2 Get to high ground as far inland as possible.

1 Do not walk, swim, or drive through flood waters.

3 Be alert to signs of a tsunami, such as a sudden rise or draining

2 Stay off of bridges over waters. fast-moving water.

3 Determine how best 4 to Listen protect to yourself emergency based information on the type and of alerts. flooding.

4 Evacuate if told to do 5 sea Evacuate: DO NOT wait!

5 Turn Around, Don't Drown! 6 If you are in a boat, go out to sea

IN CASE OF A TSUNAMI

3 Be 1 First, alert IN protect CASE to yourself OF A signs FLOOD from an of Earthquake. a tsunami, such

waters.

4 Listen to emergency information and

5 Evacuate: DO NOT wait!

6 If you are in a boat, go out to sea

DOUBLE D

IN CASE OF A TSUNAMI

1 First, protect yourself from an Earthquake.

DURABLE

DEFIANCE

2 Get to high ground as far inland as possible.

3 Be alert to signs of a tsunami, such as a sudden rise or draining of ocean

waters.

DOUBLE D

4 Listen to emergency information and alerts.

5 Evacuate: DO NOT wait!

6 If you are in a boat, go out to sea

DURABLE

DEFIANCE

DOUBLE D

DURABLE

DEFIANCE

46

We worked on the visual identity of the collection based on pictograms and the

way that emergencies are communicated. From there we devlopped a logo .

Those have been silk screen printed onto a part of the shoe.

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Final Collection Pyraimide 2

‘ Shapes,forms,colorsandmaterials

areingredients.Wearecookingourfinalreciepebybringingthoseelements

together into a collection ‘

53

Final Collection Pyraimide 2

54

Building up this second pyramide we realized how colors and materials are

uniforming the collection.

Rebel shoe

Technical drawings

55

Rebel shoe

Packshot

56

The Rebel shoe is the main piece. It is over featured, it has many options and

functionalities and can readapt and adjust to many weather changes. It’s an art

piece that inspires our collection.

Shoe n2

Technical drawings

57

Shoe n2

Packshot

58

The shoe number 2 is inspired by the protaction side of the rebel and the storage

of hardwear. It focused on cushionned foam and embossed leather. It has

a pull up goretex sock.

Shoe n3

Technical drawings

59

shoe n3

Packshot

60

The shoe n3 is focused on floatation. We based our concept on a working shoe

made from neoprene twisting a casual shoe with a swimming shoe. We designed

the sole around floatation and added a removable inflatable element. at the

ankle.

Shoe n4

Technical drawings

61

Shoe n4

Render of the sole

62

The shoe n4 is more based on the sole which is suitable for running and has a

bouncy effect by springing between the gaps.

P

‘ Discussing ideas ’

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Prototyping Process

PROTOTYPING

Pattern Making

Pattern

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Pattern Making

Pattern

66

The process starts with getting the right size of the pattern using the tape on the

last. It is a 2 piece pattern and needs to be tested to have the perfect fit.

Patern Making

Patterns

67

Pattern Making

Patterns

68

Based on the master pattern made from the last we eyeballed the outlines from

the technical sketches tomake the final patterns. This pattern rebel shoe.

Pattern Making

Patterns

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Pattern Making

Patterns

70

The process has been repeted for each shoe. In these pages we can see respectively

shoes number 2 and 3.

Sole Making

3D scanning

71

Sole Making

3D scanning

72

We worked with the Ecco sole ‘ spyder golf pro’. To be able to work arround it

in CAD we scanned it in the 3D printing LAB.

Sole Making

3D printing and CAD work

73

Sole Making

3D printing and CAD work

74

In order to prototype our soles we made a CAD in Rhino and 3D printed the

design which was a long and insecure process. Lots of the prints failed but we

managed to makeit fit the shoe perfectly.

Shoe Making

Workshop at Ecco

‘ With this project we had the

opportunity to get help from

proffessionals at Ecco. We

were able to learn from a

proffessional perspective on

how shoes are made’

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Shoe Making

Workshop at Ecco

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Shoe Making

Workshop at Ecco

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Shoe Making

Workshop at Ecco

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It is a very fast process which needs synchronization as well as preparation,

everything should be ready to be put together.

As as team we were split up supporting different parts of the process and at the

same time watching and learning.

Photoshoot

Final collection

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Photoshoot

Final collection

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Durable defiance

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