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18<br />
INTRODUCING MAINLAND GREECE<br />
Barrels in the Achaïa Klauss winery at Pátra<br />
the norm, with pr<strong>of</strong>essional brass<br />
plates alternating with personal bellbuzzer<br />
tags in any apartment block.<br />
There is a tenacious adherence,<br />
despite repeated campaigns against it,<br />
to the long afternoon siesta. As a<br />
result, some workers have to<br />
endure commuting twice a day.<br />
With EU membership since 1981<br />
and a nominally capitalist orientation,<br />
Greece has now overcome its<br />
resemblance to pre-1989 Eastern<br />
Europe. The state no longer invests<br />
heavily in antiquated industries nor is<br />
the civil service <strong>of</strong> today overstaffed<br />
as part <strong>of</strong> a full-employment policy.<br />
Instead, recent years have seen a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> improvements: loss-<br />
making state enterprises have been<br />
sold <strong>of</strong>f, inflation has dipped to<br />
single figures for the first time since<br />
1973 and interest rates have fallen.<br />
However, the drachma suffered on<br />
entry to the ERM and unemployment<br />
remains stubbornly high. Tourism<br />
ranks as the largest hard-currency<br />
earner, <strong>of</strong>fsetting the depression in<br />
world shipping and the fact that<br />
Mediterranean agricultural products<br />
are duplicated within the<br />
EU. Greece’s historically lenient<br />
entry requirements for refugees, and<br />
its pre-eminent status in the Balkans,<br />
have made it a magnet for Arabs,<br />
Africans, Kurds, Poles and Albanians<br />
for a number <strong>of</strong> years. Now<br />
pro tectionist procedures, such as<br />
stringent frontier clamp-downs and<br />
the deportation <strong>of</strong> all undocumented<br />
individuals, have been introduced.<br />
The fact that the Greek state<br />
is less than 200 years old,<br />
and that it has had much<br />
political in stability, means<br />
that there is little faith in<br />
government institutions.<br />
Life operates on networks<br />
<strong>of</strong> personal friendships<br />
and <strong>of</strong>ficial contacts.<br />
The classic designations <strong>of</strong><br />
Right and Left have only<br />
acquired their conventional<br />
meanings since the 1930s.<br />
Statue <strong>of</strong> Athena<br />
standing beside<br />
the Athens<br />
Academy<br />
Ro<strong>of</strong>tops <strong>of</strong> Náfplio and Boúrtzi islet from the Palamídi fortress<br />
The dominant political<br />
figure <strong>of</strong> the first half <strong>of</strong><br />
the 20th century was<br />
Elefthérios Venizélos, an<br />
anti-royalist Liberal. The years<br />
following World War II have been<br />
largely shaped by the influence <strong>of</strong>