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Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing
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READ The story behind the hit surfing movie i Chasing Mavericks /i ! Surfing
legend Frosty Hesson shares the story of his remarkably life and his
extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty.GET book When
Richard “Frsty”Hesson was first approached by a young Jay
Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one
thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the
first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks,
recognized that the kid “haa vision.”Jay quickly demonstrated a
resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a
seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned
Frosty’srespect and, eventually, his friendship.Making Mavericks is the
inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each
of them who they were—suf legends, and the subject of the instant
classic surf film Chasing Mavericks.In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about
his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who
tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a
disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to
live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching
philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best
students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing
phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Lie like
Jay.”Afecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of
Hesson’sdetermination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to
help others do the same.