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SPA EXECUTIVE MAY 2022

The design issue, with Bill Bensley, Alberto Apostoli, and more.

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Ethyl Butyrate – Fruity scent, like<br />

peaches or pineapple. Used in<br />

fragrance and in artificial flavoring in<br />

alcoholic beverages.<br />

Linalool – Flowery, spicy scent, similar<br />

to lavender and bergamot.<br />

Commonly used in fragrance.<br />

Eugenol – Spicy scent and the main<br />

element of clove essential oil. Used<br />

as a flavoring for foods and teas, and<br />

as a fragrance ingredient.<br />

2-Phenylethanol – Floral scent that<br />

smells like roses and also like<br />

carnation, orange blossom,<br />

and geranium. Common<br />

fragrance ingredient.<br />

1-Octen-3-ol – Also known as<br />

“mushroom alcohol,” has an earthy<br />

mushroom-like scent, also<br />

described as “raw chicken.” Used in<br />

fragrance and in pesticide to<br />

attract biting insects.<br />

Octanoic acid – Cheese-like odor<br />

also described as smelling like<br />

goat. Medium-chain fatty acid<br />

naturally found in palm oil, coconut<br />

oil, and human and animal milk.<br />

Used as a disinfectant and<br />

food additive.<br />

3-Isobutyl-2-methoxypryazine –<br />

Fresh bell pepper scent. Also<br />

present in the smell of coffee and<br />

spinach. Used in fragrance,<br />

detergents, candles, deodorants,<br />

gums, and candies.<br />

Dimethyl disulphide –<br />

Garlic-like scent. Natural<br />

compound emitted from bacteria,<br />

fungi, plants, and animals. Used as<br />

flavoring in food.<br />

Isovaleric acid – Pungent, cheesy, or<br />

“sweaty feet” scent. Found in feces<br />

and blood. Its volatile esters have<br />

pleasant odors and are widely used<br />

in perfumery.<br />

And the winner is….<br />

Vanilla was considered the most pleasant<br />

scent across cultures, followed by<br />

peachy/pineapple-y ethyl butyrate. The<br />

smell ranked the least pleasant was<br />

isovaleric acid, which is found in cheese, soy<br />

milk, apple juice, and foot sweat.<br />

Dr Arshamian, muses that a possible reason<br />

why people consider some smells more<br />

pleasant than others regardless of culture is<br />

that such odors increased the chances of<br />

survival during human evolution.<br />

“Now we know that there’s universal odor<br />

perception that is driven by molecular<br />

structure and that explains why we like or<br />

dislike a certain smell,” Dr Arshamian said.<br />

“The next step is to study why this is so by<br />

linking this knowledge to what happens in<br />

the brain when we smell a particular odor.”<br />

Wintergreen and maple in France and Canada<br />

These findings are interesting but not<br />

shocking. When one looks up the smells<br />

used in the study, the odors on the second<br />

half of the list are mostly described as<br />

“unpleasant.” It’s not a surprise that feces<br />

and sweat rank low in popularity no matter<br />

where you’re from. And, the suggested<br />

explanation seems obvious: we are put off<br />

by smells that can make us sick (feces and<br />

bacteria) and drawn towards smells that<br />

smell clean and/or good to eat because<br />

moving away from one and toward the<br />

other will help us live longer. Without the<br />

research, however, that’s just a hypothesis,<br />

so it is valuable. Still…do the findings really<br />

“show that culture has very little to do” with<br />

how we perceive scent? Different studies<br />

suggest otherwise.<br />

In a 2016 study, for instance, researchers at<br />

the Montreal Neurological Institute found<br />

that two people from different cultures<br />

smelling the same thing can have<br />

remarkably different reactions, even when<br />

those cultures share the same language<br />

and many traditions.<br />

In a partnership with researchers from the<br />

Lyon Neuroscience Research Centre in<br />

France, clinical neuropsychologist Jelena<br />

Djordjevic tested subjects in Quebec,<br />

Canada, for their subjective impressions of<br />

different scents, while their collaborators in<br />

France did the same with French subjects.<br />

This study used smells that are largely<br />

considered pleasant, or at least not overtly<br />

“unpleasant.” These were: anise, lavender,<br />

maple, wintergreen, rose, and strawberry.<br />

Participants were asked to smell each scent<br />

first without knowing what it was then<br />

again after being told its name. They were<br />

then asked to rate the scent on<br />

pleasantness, intensity, familiarity, and<br />

edibility. The scientists also measured the<br />

subjects’ non-verbal reactions to each<br />

scent, including sniffing, activity of facial<br />

muscles, respiration, and heart rate.<br />

They found significant differences between<br />

ratings of the same smells among the<br />

French and French-Canadian subjects. The<br />

French gave wintergreen much lower<br />

pleasantness ratings than<br />

18 | Spa Executive News

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