Hidden Mumbai Part 3

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W
hen I started out on Hidden Mumbai, I thought it
was a one-off project. I never really thought of a
Part 2, let alone a Part 3. But when the bug bites, it
bites hard. Part 1 covered the BMC headquarters and one part
of South Mumbai. Book 2 expanded the scope to cover more of
South Mumbai, Marine Drive, Lalbaug, Bandra, Chembur and so
on. In part 3, the journey goes further afield to Thane Creek,
Bhandup pumping station and lots more. So here’s what to
expect in this book:
Banganga – The oldest continually inhabited place in
Mumbai. Thanks to Siddharth Fondekar of Khaki Tours for
showing us around and also going through the draft and
filling in the blanks.
Bhandup Pumping Station – Who would think that this is
a birder’s paradise? Thanks to Rajesh Poojary of Mumbai
Travellers for guiding us here and helping with the bird
identification.
Dhobi Talao - Where IS the Talao? Read on to find out. All
credits to Siddhartha of Khaki Tours.
Liberty Cinema : Fulsome thanks to our friend Mrunalini
Gole , we would never have seen and appreciated this art
deco wonder.
allowed so I had to make do with my cellphone for all the
photos you see in this chapter.
TS Chanakya - Thanks to Asif Khan of BNHS, for introducing
us to this place that is home to Flamingos and much more, He
helped me identify all the birds for this book and others too!
Trees of Mumbai - Who would have thought there would be
a 26 page chapter on Trees in this book? Thank you, Dr Raj /
Dr Mistry of BNHS !
Thane Creek - If it were not for the boat rides organised by
the Coastal & Marine Diversity Centre, we would have never
known that you could see thousands of flamingos in Mumbai
Worli Koliwada - A blast from the past with Aditya Pai of No
Footprints Explore. Thanks both for guiding us and filling in
the blanks in my memory.
Thanks are also due to my wife Rita for accompanying me on
all of these trips, to Qumrunnahar Sarkar Kali for the design
and White Falcon publishing for the printing.
Enjoy!
Cheers
Peter
Raj bhavan – When the Govt of Maharashtra opened up Raj
Bhavan for tourists, I jumped at the opportunity even if
it meant getting there at an ungodly 5:45 am. No cameras
4

The Oldest Continually
Inhabited Place in Mumbai
Credit: Siddharth Fondekar, Khaki Tours
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Tucked away on the tip of Mumbai’s exclusive Malabar
Hill, Banganga Tank is a sacred oasis where it feels like
time has stood still for centuries.
The origin of Banganga Tank is steeped in legend dating
all the way back to the Ramayana . Apparently, Lord Ram
stopped there to seek the blessing of a sage, while on his
way to Sri Lanka. Rama shot in the arrow in the ground
and brought the Ganga out of the nether world.
The area around Banganga Tank gradually developed as a
pilgrimage place, and numerous temples (over a hundred!)
and dharamshalas came up. Some of the earliest settlers
were Gaud Saraswat Brahmins. One of them, who was a
minister in the court of the ruling Hindu Silhara dynasty,
constructed the existing tank and adjacent Walkeshwar
temple in 1127. The 135 meter long and 10 meter deep
structure of the tank was built over a spring, which
continues to provide a flow of fresh water even today –
even though it is just a few metres away from the sea.
Tidbit:
Malabar Hill is believed to have got its name from the
Marathas who were known as the Malabar pirates in this
area.
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The Mumbai Heritage Conservation Committee has declared Banganga Tank to be a Grade-I heritage structure, meaning
that it is of national or historical importance and no structural changes are allowed.
7

The Khaki Tours walk started at the Walkeshwar bus stop, close this imposing structure, which was once the quarters for the
band that played at Raj Bhavan.
The Khandoba (or Khanderaya temple) – see alongside - is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The name “Khandoba” comes from the words
“khadga” (sword), the weapon used by Khandoba to kill the demons, and “ba” (father). “Khanderaya” means “king Khandoba”.
In Sanskrit texts, Khandoba is known as Martanda Bhairava or Surya, a combination of the solar deity Martanda and Shiva’s
fierce form Bhairava. Malhari Mahatmya records Martanda Bhairava, pleased with the bravery of Malla, takes the name “Mallari”
(the enemy of Malla).
In murtis (icons), Khandoba is depicted as having four arms, carrying a damaru (drum), Trishula (trident), Bhandara-patra (turmeric
powder-filled bowl) and khadga (sword). Khandoba’s images are often dressed as a Maratha sardar,or a Muslim pathan. Muslim
devotees call him ‘Mallukhana’, reportedly after a Pathan who married a Muslim woman. The dome on the temple is inspired from
Islamic architecture.
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Khandoba is typically depicted with four arms, one of which holds a ‘Bhandara-patra’ or a bowl of turmeric powder.
Hence the entire temple is bathed in yellow. He is the most popular Kuladaivat (family deity) in Maharashtra and North
Karnataka He is also the patron deity of select warrior and farming castes, the Dhangar community and Brahmin castes
as well as several of the native hunter/gatherer tribes.
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See how this heritage structure of the Mangaldas trust has been modified by modern style additions on the side and top
Note the cobbled stone streets, I don’t think these remain in any other part of Mumbai.
10

The architecture of Jabbareshwar temple is an
interesting amalgam of the hindu (nagar) style
combined with Islamic dome and the Christian
Art influence of angels (complete with wings) but
wearing a Maharashtrian nine yard sari!
The temple was named Jabareshwar and built by
Natubhai Ramdas.
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The Deepmalas or lamp towers are an imposing sight. There are five of these ornate pillar-like stands with depressions to
hold oil lamps, or diyas, surrounding the tank. They are also believed to be “Jeevanth Samadhi” of saints.
12

Nearby, the Parshuram Temple is one of only
a handful of temples of its kind in existence
in India. Lord Parshuram, an incarnation of
Lord Vishnu, is the most worshiped god in the
Konkan region. He’s believed to have created
the Konkan Coast, reclaiming the land from
the sea with the fall of his axe.
13

Pictured here is a home in
banganga with an “otla” –
verandah – that part of the
house that is not within and not
without. Here is where you met
and interacted with people who
were not strangers, but yet who
you did not want to allow INSIDE
your house.
An example of local ingenuity (jugaad) – reclaiming air with a balcony grill and using it for potted plants…
14

Past, Present and future in
one frame in Banganga
Doors
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Here is one of the places where you can
see the original basalt rocks that formed
Mumbai during a volcanic eruption
millions of years ago.
1. Rameshwar Temple.
1 2
2. A small Ganpati temple sits opposite
Rameshwar temple and was also built
at the same time, in 1842. The temple’s
architecture blends Marathi styles. Its
idol has been delicately crafted from
white marble.
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Note the Neoclassical
Architecture here. The
keystones with arches to
take the weight.
Temples adopt technology
to accept donations.
17

Here’s how Walkeshwar got its name –
Legend has it that Hindu god, Rama paused at
that spot on his way from Ayodhya to Lanka
in pursuit of the demon king, Ravana who had
kidnapped his wife, Sita. Then Lord Rama was
advised to worship Shiva lingam and he is said
to have constructed the original linga of sand,
since his brother , Lakshman took long to bring
an idol. The name is etymologically derived
from the Sanskrit word for an idol made of sand
-- Valuka Iswar, an Avatar of Shiva.
It is said by whispering in Nandi’s ear, you can
get the message to reach Lord Shiva – but you
need to close his other ear!
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Idols of Lakshmi and Vishnu.
The Vithoba Rukmini temple.
Why are there the toy horses and parrots around the main effigy. It seems Vithoba (a manifestation of the god Vishnu or his
avatar, Krishna) plays with them after his lunch. They are symbols of Nathdwara Shrinathji.
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It’s not just the
clothes that get
washed at the
Dhobi Ghat in
Banganga
Interesting Artistic lamppost.
Artistic Window
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View of The Dhobi Ghat
They don’t use any
clips to dry the clothes!
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It doesn’t need much
to start a business in
Mumbai
Several of the hero or memorial stones (Pallia) are
covered in the typical red sindoor or vermilion. The
original practice is to apply sindoor on the idol of
Hanuman – the monkey God. The legend is that one day
Hanuman noticed Sita wearing the red powder in the parting
of her hair, and asked what it was. Sita explained that it
was sindoor and that it blessed Lord Rama with a long and
prosperous life. Shortly thereafter, Lord Rama saw Hanuman
covered from head to toe with sindoor and asked the reason.
Hanuman replied that if just a pinch of sindoor on Sita’s head
can bless Lord Rama with a long and happy life, he would
cover his entire body and bless Lord Rama with eternal bliss.
It is now a practice to apply sindoor to idols of Hanuman. This
is also called as Chola Chandana. People take back a little
sindoor from the idol and wear it on their foreheads.
22

Balaji Temple, located next to
the Ganpati temple, with its two
dwarapala (doorkeeper) statues.
23

The spring which is the source of fresh water for the Banganga
Tank. People bathe in it even today for religious reasons.
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Siddheshwar Mahadev Temple
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Tiles inspired by Raja Ravi Varma
Angels with Ghagra Choli at Jagannath Mahadeva temple
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Credit: Rajesh Poojary, Mumbai Travellers
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B
handup pumping station (BPS) is a unique biodiversity site, right in the middle of the largest city of India, Mumbai. BPS
is the breeding and feeding ground for many different species of birds, reptiles and also insects. BPS is attracting a lot
of migratory and non migratory birds over the years. BPS encompasses diverse landscapes with salt pans, grassland, a
lake, mangrove forest and a creek.
Located in the Eastern suburbs, the BPS is an 11 hectare wetland known to be the entry point for the Thane Creek Flamingo
Sanctuary (TCFS) from the Mumbai side. The Thane Creek is home to nearly 234 species of birds.
Seen here is the Marsh Harrier, which is a bird of prey. It hunts small mammals, frogs, fish, insects and birds, surprising
them as it drifts low over fields and reedbeds. Its long legs allow it to pluck frogs and fish from the water mid-swoop.
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The white eared bulbul does not have a uniform
song but rather a set of notes, which can be used
to chirp different melodies. The song is brief, but is
described as being “pleasant and fluid”
29

Blyth’s Reed
warbler- their song is
a mixture of warbling
phrases and guttural,
croaking notes.
It is given from a
prominent perch such
as the top of a reed
stem or bush.
Oriole
Rosy starlings (Pastor Roseus) are highly
gregarious birds, and often form large, noisy
flocks, which can on occasion be a pest for
growers of cereal crops or orchards; the
birds are strongly attracted to flowering
trees. However, they are also greatly
beneficial to farmers because they prey on
pests such as locusts and grasshoppers,
thereby limiting their numbers. The birds
breed in tight colonies in a very short
breeding season timed to take advantage of
peak abundance of grasshoppers between
months of May to June.
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Parakeet
The baya weavers are best
known for their hanging
retort shaped nests woven
from leaves. These nest
colonies are usually found on
thorny trees or palm fronds
and the nests are often
built near water or hanging
over water where predators
cannot reach easily.
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Sunbird with eclipse plumage. They largely feed largely on nectar,
but will also eat insects and spiders, especially when feeding their
young. Flowers that prevent access to their nectar because of
their shape (for example, very long and narrow flowers) are simply
punctured at the base near the nectaries, from which the birds
sip the nectar. Fruit is also part of the diet of some species. Their
flight is fast and direct, thanks to their short wings.
Purple sunbird- female
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Palash, Flame of the forest.
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Grey heron (top left) Eurasian spoonbill (top right) Painted stork (bottom left)
The Grey Heron is a bird of wetland areas, it can be seen around lakes, rivers, ponds, marshes and on the sea coast. It feeds
mostly on aquatic creatures which it catches after standing stationary beside or in the water or stalking its prey through the
shallows.
The diet of the Eurasian spoonbill consists of aquatic insects, mollusks, newts, crustaceans, worms, leeches, frogs, tadpoles
and small fish. They use sideways sweeps of their beaks to filter out the tiny fish and shrimps.
The painted stork has distinctive pink tertial feathers which gives them their name. They forage in flocks in shallow waters
along rivers or lakes. They immerse their half open beaks in water and sweep them from side to side and snap up their prey of
small fish that are sensed by touch. As they wade along they also stir the water with their feet to flush hiding fish.
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Parakeet
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The spotted dove flies from the ground with an
explosive flutter and will sometimes glide down
to a perch as can be seen here.
The Asian koel like many of its related cuckoo kin is a brood parasite that lays its eggs in the nests of crows and other
hosts, who raise its young. They are unusual among the cuckoos in being largely frugivorous as adults.
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The garganey duck rises easily from the water with a fast twisting wader-like flight. The common English name dates from the
17th century and comes from Lombard language gargenei, the plural of garganell, which ultimately comes from the Late Latin
gargala “tracheal artery”. Go figure.
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The Sandpiper has a sensitive bill, allowing the
bird to feel the mud and sand as it probes for food.
Different lengths of bills enable different species to
feed in the same habitat, particularly on the coast,
without direct competition for food.
Red Wattled Lapwings are ground birds that are
incapable of perching. Their characteristic loud alarm
calls are indicators of human or animal movements
and the sounds have been variously rendered as did
he do it or pity to do it, leading to the colloquial name
of did-he-do-it bird.
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40
Great Egret

Pond heron
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42
Flamingos

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Cormorants are fish-eaters, catching their prey by diving from
the surface. They are excellent divers, and under water they
propel themselves with their feet with help from their wings.
After fishing, cormorants go ashore, and are frequently seen
holding their wings out in the sun, to dry them off.
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Black kites are opportunistic hunters and are
more likely to scavenge. They spend much
time soaring and gliding in thermals in search
of food. Their angled wing and distinctive
forked tail make them easy to identify. They
are also vociferous with a shrill whinnying call.
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The Great Egret builds tree nests in colonies
close to water.
46

Credit: Siddhartha, Khaki Tours
47

Opposite the Metro theatre is the Parsi Ambulance
Division, which works out of the Lady Willingdon
Building. This was set up in 1904, and continues to
render its services to the citizens of Mumbai city, often even
serving patients beyond its borders, in places within and outside
Maharashtra in times of need. Starting out as a branch of the
internationally known St John’s Ambulance Brigade, the Parsi
Ambulance Division is almost a misnomer, since it has catered
to and still caters to every section of society, irrespective of
caste or creed. The only difference is that the entire division
is run by Parsis.
Members of the Parsi Ambulance Division were present
to extend a helping hand during the First World War, the
Influenza Epidemic of 1918, the riots of 1929 and 1946 (where
two members were stabbed during the attack), and other
times of crisis like the riots of 1992 and the Latur earthquake
of 1993
Constructed in 1934, the Art Deco Magenta coloured building
won an award from the Heritage Society in 1993 for being in
good shape even though it was more than 60 years old at
the time.
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The William Fitzgerald fountain
This 45 feet high and 19 feet wide fountain was cast at
Barwell & Co.’s Eagle Foundry in Northampton, England,
and installed in 1867 at the Metro cinema junction in Dhobi
Talao, South Mumbai. It was erected to mark the arrival of Sir
William Robert Seymour Vesey-Fitzgerald, a Britsh governor
of Bombay who served from 1867 to 1872.
In 1960, under a wave of patriotic fervour, many statues and
structures that represented the monarchy were removed
from locations across the city and moved to the Bhau Daji
Lad Museum. Fitzgerald Fountain suffered the same fate, as
it bore the British monarchy’s Royal Coat of Arms. During
the move, many parts were unfortunately misplaced and
it languished for about 60 years before the BMC began to
restore it in 2018. In a timely twist of fate, a British industrial
archaeologist, Peter Perkins, discovered that the fountain
in Mumbai was identical to a ‘lost’ fountain which had once
resided in Northampton, England. With his assistance in
producing pictures, drawings and designs, more than 400
missing parts of the fountain were cast as replacements.
During dismantling of the structure, a curious six-digit
number engraved on the inner side of the four panels was
discovered. Perkins explained that the number was the
patent or the design registration number which matched
the six digit number printed on the design drawing. Barwell
& Co. registered the design as a lamp pillar with the British
Patents Design and Trade Marks Office in 1864 although it
was described as a lamp and fountain in their catalog.
The highly decorated structure was originally seated on a
square plinth with three steps leading to the base of the
fountain which formed a St. Andrew’s cross. A decorative
scroll jamb was located on each corner. Four tazzas with
small fountains poured water into basins which was then
directed to lion mascarons which spouted water into
drinking basins located on two sides.
Mascarons are sculpted faces of lions and Naiads, in
Greek mythology, were female water nymphs who guarded
fountains, wells, and other bodies of fresh water. These are
displayed throughout the structure.
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The base of the fountain.
The acroter (flat base) supported a highly decorative ornamental column with a gilt globe lantern lit by gas, 4 feet in diameter.
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William Fitzgerald Fountain
51

Vasudev Balwant Phadke (4 November 1845 – 17 February
1883), also known as the ‘Father Of Indian Armed Rebellion’
was an Indian independence activist and revolutionary who
sought India’s independence from colonial rule. Phadke was
moved by the plight of the farming community and believed
that Swaraj was the only remedy for their ills. With the help
of various sub-communities of Hindu society he created a
movement against British rule. The group started an armed
struggle to overthrow the colonial government, launching
raids on wealthy European businessmen to obtain funds
for the purpose. Phadke came to prominence when he got
control of the city of Pune for a few days after catching
colonial soldiers off-guard during a surprise attack.
Phadke was betrayed to the British and he was captured
in a temple after a fierce fight at the district of Kaladgi on
20 July 1879. He was sentenced for life and transported
to jail at Aden, but escaped from the prison by taking the
door off from its hinges on 13 February 1883. He was soon
recaptured and then went on a hunger strike, dying on 17
February 1883.
Phadke became known as the father of the Indian armed
rebellion in that he provided the inspiration for fellow
members of the independent movement. In 1984, the Indian
Postal Service issued a 50 paise stamp in honour of Phadke
A chowk in South Mumbai near Metro Cinema is named in
his honour.
The bust you can see here is at that chowk.
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The name Marine Lines is derived from the Marine Battalion Lines, a military establishment built by the British in the 19th
century. The battalion was later converted to an air force residential quarters that you can see here. This area was at the edge
of the fort of Mumbai and the soldiers were stationed here to protect the fort from attack.
53

The Metro Theatre is a famous landmark of Marine
lines. It opened on 8th June 1938 and was built for
Metro Goldwyn Mayer, designed by noted American
theatre architect Thomas W. Lamb, with assistance from
local Bombay architect David William Ditchburn, a senior
partner in the architectural firm Ditchburn, Mistry &
Bhedwar. The Metro Goldwyn Corporation acquired the
land on which this cinema stands on a 999 year lease at
the ground rent of Re 1 per year!
Seating was provided for 1,491 in orchestra and balcony
levels, amid art deco style splendour. The interior, floors,
walls, ceilings as well as the furniture, was in shades of
red and pink. Patrons were serviced by liveried ushers in
the marble foyer. Staircases led up to murals by students
of the J. J. School of Art, under Charles Gerard. In 1955
Metro was the venue for the first Filmfare Awards night.
For many years, the Metro Cinema was the premiere
cinema of Bombay, and of course played mainly MGM
films. There are many Metro theatres worldwide and the
Name “Metro” in the distinct art deco lettering style is
what is common between them.
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Jhaveri Bros is a famous gift and trophy shop in that area. They were the
one of the first distributors of Mont Blanc Pens in the country. Hence the
door handle in the shape of a Mont Blanc Pen!
Driniking water fountains, in the shape of Nagar Temple of the kotharis.
Check out the Shikars
55

The road adjoining to Metro
is a tree lined avenue called
Cinema Road, since it led from
Metro to Liberty.
Behind it is the “Barrack
Road” which originally led to
the Barracks of the Marine
Battalion.
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The Air Force HQ building in traditional
Anglo-Gothic architectural style
57

The area is full of buildings with Art
Deco features – see the porthole type
balconies, grilled windows, streamlined
galleries, red slats.
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More Art Deco
59

In those days they paid attention to detail
– decorative windows, chajjas, ledges ,
balconies – even if they were building a
hospital like Bombay hospital. From far it
looks like any other building. You have to
zoom in to see the art deco and Rajasthani
(shekhawati) architectural influences.
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Adjacent is a 350 year old dargah
of Syed Qadar Shah Vali. Even
before his birth, a messenger of
God appeared before his mother
Beebi Fathima in a dream and
predicted that she would be
blessed with a son who would be
the saviour of people and spend
his life to spread Islam.
1 2
1. Don’t miss the image of the goddess of healing Dhanwantari on the Bombay Hospital building. Dhanvantari is the Hindu god
of medicine and an avatar of Lord Vishnu, mentioned in the Puranas as the god of Ayurveda. During the Samudramanthan,
he arose from the Ocean of Milk with the nectar of immortality. It is a common practice in Hinduism for worshipers to pray to
Dhanvantari seeking his blessings for sound health for themselves and/or others.
2. Incidentally you can also see the only brick sewage vent in Mumbai alongside.
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Gol Masjid, curiously situated in the middle of a busy road. When the structure of the mosque first came up, it was not in the middle
of the road. There were five old structures on the left side. The stretch of the road to the right of the mosque was the only one where
one could travel. But not many vehicles passed by that spot hence it wasn’t a problem. However, a few years after the mosque came
up, the five buildings had to be demolished thereby placing the mosque in the middle of the road like a traffic island.
62

A few metres away on the opposite side is the 105-yearold
Irani Cafe Sassanian Boulangerie. The cafe was started
by Rustom Yazdabadi in 1913. Sassanian was taken over
by the Kola family in 1947. These Irani cafes are typically
located on street corners. In those days ladies were not
comfortable eating outside their homes so these cafes
had separate “family” sections. No pork and no beef was
served so both Hindus and Muslims patronized them.
Loyalists come to savour the bakery’s famous bread
pudding, eat brun maska and drink Irani chai or make a
meal of the ‘value-for-money’ chicken dhansak and rice.
The furniture is as old as the bakery itself. The Polish
brentwood chairs inside are in impeccable shape because
they are polished once every two years.
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The word kudd, also spelt ‘coor’ or ‘cudd’, literally
means ‘room’ in Konkani. Kudds, also referred
to as clubs, are dormitory-style accommodation
spaces that first cropped up in the late 18th to
early 19th century, to house Goan migrants who
were flocking to the commercial hub of Bombay in
search of work. Of the 450 kudds in the city, only
about 160 remain, according to the Federation of
Goan Club (Kudd).
Most Kudd inhabitants ended up working as seamen —
waiters, mess-men and cooks on ships. They would halt at
their kudd in Mumbai before starting each voyage, or would
spend a few days of shore leave there before heading home
to Goa on breaks. Often, they would leave belongings behind
in a trunk with their name or membership number.
Members of every kudd follow a similar set of rules — the
daily evening rosary is compulsory, bedding must be rolled up
by 8 am, lights must go out by 10.30 pm. Drinking is allowed
as long as no nuisance is created, and most kudds allow
card games on certain days. Each kudd is named after a
Goan village. Members can stay at the club indefinitely, for a
monthly rent that now ranges from Rs 50 to Rs 150.
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65

Ashraf Bros,the shop from where Ashraf would fix the bats for some of the biggest names in Indian cricket - be it
Sachin Tendulkar or Virat Kohli. Australia’s Steve Smith, South Africa’s Faf du Plessis or West Indies’s Chris Gayle and
Kieron Pollard – all have biffed sixes with bats tinkered by him.
He was the most valuable support staff for batsmen. He would fix broken bats, remake them, shave off wood to reduce weight
or trim the handle edges as per demands of the hard-to-please batsmen.
66

The streets here were
identified either by the
tradenames of those who
stayed there, or the trees
or crops that grew/were
traded there – Hamalvadi,
Jambulwadi, Ambevadi,
Kandewadi etc.
The Castle hotel served
ethnic goan food for those
getting homesick, and the
word “military hotel” was
euphemistic for one that
served non vegetarian food.
The only place in Mumbai where you can get Nigerian food is also there.
67

The 170 year old Bai Avabai Ardeshir Wadia
(Indawalla) Agiary.. And a Jain temple next to it!
68

The “Small causes” court, which was corrupted to “Ismail kazi”
Many sports shops came up in the area to serve the needs of the soldiers staying in the battalion. One of them was Wagle
and Co Founded in 1865 by Raghunath Wagle. It is believed to be the first sports goods shop in the country. It was a favourite
amongst the British for the wide range of sports goods it offered at reasonable rates. I missed taking the photo here!
This stone was of immense importance to travellers arriving in the city about two hundred years ago. Embedded in the
street, the stone marks a one mile, or the first mile, distance from the zero point of Bombay, which was St. Thomas Cathedral
in Horniman Circle.
69

For a century now, the defining image when
one moves towards Marine Lines has been
of a building with six stories of wide open
wooden balconies. The Jer Mahal is an imposing
structure and stands almost as the gateway into the
peaceful by-lanes of Dhobi Talao. It is a cluster of
seven buildings enclosing each other and straddling
JSS Road and Kalbadevi Road. The legend goes
that its builder named each structure after family
members. Most of the buildings were named after
either his daughters or wife. So you have Jer Mahal,
Dhan Mahal, Soona Mahal, Behram Mahal, Fram
Mahal, Dinshaw Mahal and Jer Mahal Annexe. A pair of
arches that open up on JSS Road and Kalbadevi Road
are a throwback to the era of the locality’s heydays.
Horse carriages would pass through those arches
and the passage was much wider. The ground floor
of Jer Mahal also houses some iconic south Mumbai
establishments like Kyani and Company, LM Furtado
& Co, Bombay Sports and Universal Book Store —
all of which are nearly a century old. Furtados is a
famous store selling musical instruments and books.
It represented the Trinity school of Music of London.
Willingdon Hair cutting saloon was frequented by the
rich and famous.
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71

In the year 1926, Kavasji Jamshedji Petigara
became the first Indian to head the Bombay
Crime Investigation Department (CID), as a
Deputy Commissioner of Police. Since then, Bombay
became Mumbai, and the CID has seen several
legendary bosses. However, it was Petigara who
remained in memories, and that is largely thanks to
the most high-profile arrest he had to make regularly.
The ‘criminal’? Mahatma Gandhi! And strangely
enough, Gandhiji also insisted that Petigara be there
every time he was arrested! Gandhiji trusted Petigara
and understood that the CID Chief was merely
doing his duty. It is interesting to note that Petigara
had no formal police training, and joined the force
in 1903 as a plainclothes policeman, also known
as a “safedwala”. It was his crime-fighting ability,
intelligence, meritorious service and loyalty, that saw
him promoted to Inspector of Police, in 1909, after
just six years of service. The title of ‘Khan Saheb’ was
conferred upon him in 1912, he earned the Imperial
Service Order in 1926, the Order of the British Empire
in 1931, the Companion of the Indian Empire in 1933,
and the King’s Police Medal in 1934. The man was
equally trusted by both the British and the Congress
party, thus indispensable for both. Here is his statue
in Dhobi Talao.
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Acacio Gabriel Viegas (1 April 1856—February 21, 1933) was a
medical practitioner who was credited with the discovery of the
outbreak of bubonic plague in Bombay, India, in 1896. His timely
discovery helped save many lives in the city and he was credited with the
inoculation of 18,000 residents He tended to patients at great personal risk
and launched a vociferous campaign to clean up slums and exterminate rats,
the carriers of the plague. Not satisfied with serving the public only through
medicine, he successfully contested the civic election from 1888 till 1907.
In 1906 he became the President of the Municipal Corporation, enjoying
the distinction of being the first native Christian to do so. Here’s his statue
opposite the Metro cinema.
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There are over 250 cannons all over Mumbai, hiding in plain sight. They were probably placed in the 1850’s and served as
bollards. They were markers to mark the end of the “white town” where the British lived. Beyond the canyons, the locals
were allowed to construct their houses and conduct business activities. The idea was to keep the locals at a distance –
and the cannons achieved that. Here is a cannon in Dhobi Talao area - hidden behind a shop door and covered with debris.
Another Marker cannon. Probably Horses used to be tied around them.
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The People’s Free Reading Room and Library was a coming together of likeminded people who wanted to provide free
reading services to Indians. In 1891, a merchant named Damodardas Sukhadwala established the library. The library
continues to offer free membership for access to its collection of 18,000 books — mainly fiction and some dating back by
a century. A “students’ corner”, for which visitors have to pay a monthly fee, generated some income for the library. During the
examination season, it was common to see a packed reading hall with students poring over books.
The road alongside Metro was called First Marine Street (FMS) – a nod to the battalion. Signs of FMS still persist today
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Dhobi Talao is named after a washerman’s pond which disappeared before the mid 17th century. It used to be
a location where linen was washed. In British times, dhobis used to wash the British soldiers clothes’ here.
It was filled up in the mid-17th century as the city began to expand. The lake used to be fed by a number of
underground freshwater springs, which were recently uncovered while constructing the subway in the locality. The
tank to which the area owes its name, can no longer be seen today. All that remains is this sign.
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Credits: Mrunalini Gole
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L
iberty Cinema is an Art Deco 1200 seater single screen Movie theatre. Since it was built in 1947, the year of Indian Independence,
its founder Habib Hoosein decided to name it “Liberty”. David Vinnels and Brent Skelly describe Liberty Cinema as “an exquisite
jewel box of rococo decoration enhanced by a coloured lighting scheme suggesting a fairyland far away from the bustle and
tumult in the streets outside. When it opened it was the only great picture palace in south Bombay to exclusively screen Hindustani pictures.
As a souvenir brochure commemorating the Liberty’s opening made clear, it was a statement to the Indian people that no theatre can be too
good for them or for Indian pictures. To the Indian picture-goer who complained that the finest facilities were being used to show foreign
products, the Liberty comes as the promise of a brighter future ... an ultra-modern, air-conditioned luxury cinema dedicated to showing the
best of Indian films. Thanks to our friend Mrunalini Gole for giving us the opportunity to view and p;hotograph this amazing venue!
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The booking window has the “frozen fountain” motif
popular in Art Deco. The geometric windows, red slats
and ornamental Grille Gates (right) contribute to the
streamlined looks art deco is famous for.
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Special attention was paid even to the grill works on the gate.
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Inside the preview theatre

The preview theatre (42 seat), complete with private ashtrays.
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The imposing burnished wooden
doors open into the magnificient
foyer. Originally conceived by
British architect M.A. Riddley
Abbott in 1947, the building was
completed to the altered plans
of architects John Berchmans
Fernandes and Waman
Moreshwar Namjoshi.
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The main theatre.

Glow in the dark psychedelic
lights in the balcony roof .
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Statuettes and staircases.
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W
hile traditional materials like
marble from India, teak from
Burma, and white cedar from
Canada were extensively used at the Liberty, a
state-of-the-art sound system from Germany
and air conditioning from upstate New York
were also installed. Incandescent bulbs inside
the main and preview theatres created, and
still do, a stunning multicoloured light show
before films are even screened. The theatre
is a very early example of performative
architecture, made possible by an inventive
yet simple use of electric light.
96

Credit : Govt of Maharashtra
97

A
131 year-old complex, Raj Bhavan has been a residence to the Governors since 1885. Seven
cottage-like make up the complex: an outhouse for dignitaries, a presidential suite for the Prime
Minister and President of India, a banquet hall, the governor’s residence and office, a swearingin
ceremony hall, and staff quarters.
Raj Bhavan is not the original residence to the GoM. The first governor, appointed in 1665 by the East India
Company, resided at the Bombay Castle — a defence fortress built by the Portuguese that now stands inside
INS Angre, a naval port behind the Asiatic Library, Horniman Circle, Fort. The Haffkine Institute, Parel, was the
next residence. It was abandoned after the outbreak of the Bombay Plague (1897). Raj Bhavan has been the
permanent residence ever since.
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R
ecently the government opened up the Raj Bhavan to private visitors. It was a short conducted tour,
6am to 9 am or so, going through the highlights of the estate and the bunker. We reached early at 5:45
am.. it was dark and we were greeted by the imposing gates of Raj Bhavan. Little did we know what
were the glories that awaited us inside.
Raj Bhavan is spread over an area of around 50 acres in the Malabar Hill. Sea surrounds the estate on three sides.
The Raj Bhavan complex at Malabar Hill has a mile long stretch of thick forests, a sandy beach and several lush lawns.
The complex has five main buildings – Jal Bhushan, Jal Laxan, Jal Chintan, Jal Vihar and Jal Sabhagriha. Renovations
have been carried on over the years, and the buildings have an amalgam of modern Indian style of architecture and
British colonial style.
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A beautiful functional temple inside the
premises – Devi Mandir

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The Indian Flag flutters high.
A huge number of medicinal plants
can be found in the complex.
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Waiting for Sunrise
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Even dolphins can be spotted here.

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Freedom behind chains

Capturing the sun
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F
or many years, the old-timers in the complex,
whose parents had also served in Raj Bhavan,
would often say that they had been told about
a tunnel somewhere hidden under the Governor’s
residence. But, no one would take it too seriously. Also,
nobody could actually verify it as there was no way
to find where the so-called tunnel started and ended.
In August 2016, during one of his regular walks, the
Governor Shri C Vidyasagar Rao noticed a section that
seemed superimposed on the existing rock wall. He
asked the Public Works (PW) staff to knock the wall down just to see whether there actually exists a tunnel or not. And
what they found came across to them as a big shock – it was a bunker!
The bunker, with 13 rooms spread over an area of more than 5,000 sq ft, has rooms bearing the Shell Store, Gun Shell, Cartridge
Store, Shell Lift, Pump, Central Artillery Store, Workshop etc.
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The entire underground bunker has a drainage
system and inlets for fresh air and light. Lampways
recessed in the wall are a special feature. Being
inside Raj Bhavan’s Bunker Museum is almost like
travelling back in time to the 19th century. Here
you can see the contraption used to move cannon
balls up from the bunker to the cannons.
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A Very interesting motif showcasing all the unique aspects of Mumbai, both old and new. The Kolis, the Dabbawalas, the
Vishan Sabha, Stock exchange, Gateway of India, Elephanta caves, Mumbai local trains, BEST buses, the Metro and more are all
represented here.
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The cannons and their firing mechanisms,
winches etc.
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Drainage and inlets for fresh air (photos 1 and 2)
The exit out of the bunker (photo 3)
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JAL BHUSHAN
Built by Governor Mountstuart Elphinstone, the commanding citadel of Jal Bhushan is built on the foundation of a pretty cottage.
Reginald Heber described this place as “a pretty cottage on a rocky and woody promontory actually washed by sea spray”.
Mountstuart Elphinstone built this place with French furniture, artistic wooden carpentry and exquisite paintings on the wall
which magnifies the charm of Jal Bhushan. It also houses paintings by many Indian Masters.
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Jal Vihar – the Banquet hall. The carved screens are designed to separate the dining area from the reception hall. The
vaulted ceilings are now crowned with Ashoka Lion Emblems. The priceless persian carpets are inlaid with ancient motifs
to give a look of Mughal Era.
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JAL LAKSHAN This residence is reserved for
the President of India. Sir Bartle Frere had
commissioned Theodore Jensen to paint a
series of Maratha Warriors after the Mutiny of
1857. These paintings were then placed inside
the building for a political standpoint which
would make the leaders of India less hostile
and make them accept British Sovereignty.
Jal Lakshan also has grand receiving rooms
where the guests are invited to join the
President who find themselves seated on
grand furniture gilded with gold.
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The entrance to the
Royal Banquet Hall.
Note the British era interiors of
the Jal Sabhagraha - the serene
Durbar Hall of Raj Bhavan. It is a
venue swearing ceremonies and
other occasions.
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The Royal Dining Room

Inside and outside views of the
outdoor informal parlour at the
Banquet Hall, Raj Bhavan. Live
musicians perform here during
functions.
Jal Chintan was once known as Point
Bungalow. Jal Chintan resides at
the edge of the cliff. It is the official
residence for the visiting Prime
Minister of India. It is said that it was
Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru’s favourite
abode.
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The flora and fauna surrounding the residence is a
UNESCO Natural Heritage site, with 6,000 species of trees.
Most importantly, it is a breeding ground for peacocks —
about 20 peacocks currently reside in the premises.
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Governor’s secretariat.

The helipad.
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Raj Bhavan has its exclusive post office, even its own pin code. Outside the main premise gate,
Malabar Hill’s pin code is 400006. Inside, it changes to 400035.
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Credit : Asif Khan, BNHS
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This water body is located just behind the Marine training institute - Training Ship Chanakya on Palm Beach Road -
Seawoods. This is a good place to see Migratory Birds like Flamingos, Northern Shovelers & many other wader birds both
resident & migratory.
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Spotted Dove
The Scaly Breasted Munia eats mainly grass seeds apart
from berries and small insects. They forage in flocks and
communicate with soft calls and whistles. The species is
highly social and may sometimes roost with other species
of munias. This species is found in tropical plains and
grasslands. Breeding pairs construct dome-shaped nests
using grass or bamboo leaves.
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Flamingo
Indian Pond Heron
Common Kingfisher
Common Myna
The Myna is omnivorous open woodland bird with a strong territorial instinct.
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1 2
1. Cormorant
3
2. Red Avdavat. The species name of amandava and
the common name of avadavat are derived from
the city of Ahmedabad in Gujarat, India, from where
these birds were exported into the pet trade in
former times.
3. Laughing Dove - It’s chuckling call is a low rolling
croo-doo-doo-doo-doo with a rising and falling
amplitude. Laughing doves eat the fallen seeds,
mainly of grasses, other vegetable matter and small
ground insects such as termites and beetles.
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The Indian Roller is the state bird of three states. The species is best known for
the aerobatic displays of males during the breeding season.
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Painted Storks
The Green Bee eater eats insects, especially
bees, wasps and ants, which are caught in
the air by sorties from an open perch. Before
swallowing prey, a bee-eater removes stings
and breaks the exoskeleton of the prey by
repeatedly thrashing it on the perch.
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The Great Egret normally impales its prey with its long, sharp bill by standing still and
allowing the prey to come within the striking distance of its bill, which it uses as a
spear. It often waits motionless for prey, or slowly stalks its victim.
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The Caspian Tern feeds mainly on fish, which they
dive for, hovering high over the water and then
plunging. They also occasionally eat large insects,
the young and eggs of other birds and rodents. They
may fly up to 60 km (37 mi) from the breeding colony
to catch fish; they often fish on freshwater lakes as
well as at sea.
Painted Stork
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Cattle Egrets often accompany cattle or other large mammals, catching insect and small vertebrate prey disturbed by
these animals. The cattle egret removes ticks and flies from cattle and consumes them. This benefits both species.
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Black winged Stilt The breeding habitat
of all these stilts is marshes, shallow
lakes and ponds. These birds pick up
their food from sand or water. They eat
mainly insects and crustaceans.
The Common Greenshank is a wader
that feeds on small invertebrates,
but will also take small fish and
amphibians. It feeds mainly by
striding in water, picking and
sweeping with its bill.
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Indian Roller in Habitat

Credits: Dr Raj /Dr Mistry - BNHS
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E
very day we walk the streets of Mumbai, with
nary a glance at the trees that line our roads.
The trees are our lifeline, they produce oxygen
we breathe that we need to live, but we take them for
granted. As per our latest Tree Inventory/ Census, carried
out by the Tree Authority using GIS-GPS technology, there
are approximately 2.9 million trees in Mumbai.
BNHS organised a heritage tree walk conducted by Dr.
Raj and his guru Dr. Mistry. We jumped at the chance to
learn more about our tree friends.
Dr. Rajdeo Singh is working as Assistant Prof. at St.
Xavier’s College, Mumbai. He is specialised in Taxonomy
of flowering plants. He is working in this field for about
15 years.
Dr. Manek Mistry is retd. Assistant prof. from St. Xavier’s
College, Mumbai. He is specialised in Taxonomy of
flowering plants. He has worked on Flora of Ratnagiri
district, Maharashtra for his doctoral studies.
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The first tree we saw was in the BNHS building compound itself the
Kadam tree - Neolamarckia cadamba
The Indian name comes from the Kadamba dynasty who consider it holy.
The genus name honours French naturalist Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. Tree
names often include something about the character of the tree, its origin,
or a person who discovered/named/classified it.
It has scented orange flowers
in dense globe-shaped
clusters. The flowers are
small and grouped together
in an inflorescence for easier
pollination by the pollinators.
The tree is an evergreen tree
with horizontal branches.
The flowers are used in
perfumes. The tree is grown
as an ornamental plant and
for timber and paper-making.
Kadamb features in Indian
religions and mythologies. In
North India, it is associated
with Krishna, while in the south it is known as “Parvati’s tree”. Radha and
Krishna are supposed to have conducted their love play in the hospitable
and sweet-scented shade of the kadamba tree.
The tree can develop growing points all over it.
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The Rosy trumpet tree was next in line. It is from
south America. During blooming season is sheds all
its leaves and is full of pretty pink flowers. It has less
pollinators. Its seeds are papery and winged and hence
carried by the wind. Preparations of the bark of the
tree are consumed to eliminate intestinal parasites,
malaria and uterine cancer. A decoction of the bark
is recommended for anemia and constipation. A
decoction of the flowers, leaves and roots has been
used to reduce fevers and pain.
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This is an Uncommon tree for Mumbai - The
Mahua tree.
The fat from the tree is used for the care of
the skin, to manufacture soap or detergents,
and as a vegetable butter. It can also be
used as a fuel oil. The seed cakes obtained
after extraction of oil constitute very good
fertilizer. The flowers are used to produce an
alcoholic drink in tropical India. This drink is
also known to affect animals. Several parts
of the tree, including the bark, are used for
their medicinal properties. It is considered
holy by many tribal communities because of
its usefulness.
Its flower bloom at night and are pollinated
by bats.
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T
his tree is native to South America, Mexico and Central America. It was planted by the Scottish
explorer David Livingstone in the 1850s. Its scientific name is Sweitenia macrophylla named
after the Dutch botanist Van Sweeten. It is from the neem family. One unique feature is that
its leaves are asymetrical
Mahogany wood is strong and is usually a source for furniture, musical instruments, ships, doors,
coffins, decors. Mahogany is characterised by its large leaves (up to 45 cm long). The leaflets are
even in number and are connected by a central midrib. The flowers are small and organised in
clusters The fruits are called “sky fruits” because of its upwards growth towards the sky.
The method of painting the base of tree trunks with thin coat of white lime (calcium hydroxide)
and red geru (sinopia or red ochre powder) is a traditional safeguard against fungal diseases and
potential pest attacks – only it can cause damage to living trees!
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The Peltophorum tree is widely grown in tropical regions as an ornamental tree.
The trees have been planted in India as a common scheme for avenue trees. It is planted alternately with Delonix regia
(Poinciana) to give a striking yellow and red effect in summer, as has been done on Hughes road in Mumbai.
The flower has very clearly distinguishable parts which lends itself to teaching. The colour of the flowers advertises availability
of nectar. (other trees use flower aroma for the same purpose).
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The star apple tree, coming from the West Indies, gets its name from its seeds which are arranged
in star formation inside the fruit. The scientific name is CHRYSOPHYLLUM CAINITO.
The tree has small creamy colour flowers which are aggregated for easier pollination.
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Samanea saman or the RAIN TREE is from South America. It is a larger
variety of touch-me- not or mimosa. The original name is saman -
The light sensitive leaves fold in rainy weather (allowing rain to fall
through the tree) and in the evening, hence the names rain tree and
five o’clock tree. Another possible reason why the tree got its name
is because of the cicadas living in it which secrete a liquid like misty
rain. Yet another is the occasional shower of sugary secretions from
the nectaries on the leaf petioles. Or possibly even to the shedding of
stamens during heavy flowering.
Tidbit: Most Trees flower in summer when there is 13 or so hours of
light. These are called long day trees. Short day trees, on the other
hand flower in winter since they need more darkness. Neutral day
tree flowers throughout the year.
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Compound leaf
Production of leaves and flowers takes energy. The tree has several options. A large, thick leaf is strong and can withstand
damage but takes a lot of energy to produce, which can be lost if the leaf is damaged or eaten by insects. A compound leaf
consists of one leaf broken up into hundreds of smaller sections. The leaves are much thinner, need less energy to produce and
more resistant to damage and attack than a single large leaf.
156

The TREE OF HEAVEN (Ailanthus altissima) is native to northeast and central
China, and Taiwan. It is identified by its drooping red leaves . There are three
such trees in Rani Baug and 3 in the Mumbai University campus.
In China, the tree of heaven has a long and rich history. It was mentioned in the oldest extant Chinese dictionary and listed
in many Chinese medical texts for its purported curative ability. The roots, leaves, and bark are used in traditional Chinese
medicine, primarily as an astringent. The drought-tolerance of the tree is strong due to its ability to effectively store water
in its root system. It is frequently found in areas where few trees can survive. The roots are also aggressive enough to cause
damage to subterranean sewers and pipes. Ailanthus produces an allelopathic chemical called ailanthone, which inhibits the
growth of other plants.
The male plants emit a foul-smelling odor while flowering to attract pollinating insects. The samara is large and twisted at the
tips, making it spin as it falls, assisting wind dispersal and aiding buoyancy for long-distance dispersal through hydrochory –
the movement, spread or transport of the seeds away from the parent plant.
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The FISH TAIL PALM TREE, called so because of
the shape of its leaves. If planted in the right
conditions, they grow quickly, about 12 to 24 inches
(30 to 60 centimeters) per year. It lives for 15 years
in a vegetative state, and then the flowering
starts from top and moves down. When the lowest
flowering starts and completes, the tree dies. The
sap from this tree is best for neera. The seeds are
called Ardh supari and are good for migraine.
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Plumeria rubra another variety of plumeria with red flowers
FRANGIPANI (Plumeria)
Plumeria flowers are most fragrant at night to lure sphinx
moths to pollinate them. The flowers yield no nectar, though,
and simply trick their pollinators. The moths inadvertently
pollinate them by transferring pollen from flower to flower in
their fruitless search for nectar.
The genus is named in honor of 17th-century French botanist
and Catholic monk Charles Plumier, who traveled to the
New World documenting many plant and animal species
The common name “frangipani” comes from a 16th-century
marquis of the noble Frangipani family in Italy, who claimed
to have invented a plumeria-scented perfume, but in reality
made a synthetic perfume that was said at the time to
resemble the odor of the recently discovered flowers.
In eastern India and Bangladesh, it is traditionally
considered as a variety of champak flower, the golok chapa
meaning the champaka that resides in the heavenly home of
Sree Krishna.
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THE BREADFRUIT tree comes from the Pacific
Islands. According to Hawaian legend the
breadfruit originated from the sacrifice of the
war god Kū. After deciding to live secretly among
mortals as a farmer, Kū married and had children.
He and his family lived happily until a famine
seized their island. When he could no longer bear
to watch his children suffer, Kū told his wife that he
could deliver them from starvation, but to do so he
would have to leave them. Reluctantly she agreed,
and at her word, Kū descended into the ground
right where he had stood until only the top of his
head was visible. His family waited around the
spot he had last been, day and night, watering it
with their tears until suddenly, a small green shoot
appeared where Kū had stood. Quickly, the shoot
grew into a tall and leafy tree that was laden with
heavy breadfruits that Kū’s family and neighbors
gratefully ate, joyfully saved from starvation.
Its name is derived from the texture of the
moderately ripe fruit when cooked, similar to
freshly baked bread and having a potato-like
flavour. Breadfruit is one of the highest-yielding
food plants, with a single tree producing up to
200 or more grapefruit-sized fruits per season,
requiring limited care.
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The SITA ASHOK TREE is one of the most legendary
and sacred trees of India. Native to the Western
Ghats and often growing alongside streams, the
flowering season of this tree is in summer. The
vibrant orange, slightly fragrant flowers are borne in
roundish inflorescence on the branches and stems.
Initial reddish yellow blooms, turning into vermillion
colored clusters of flowers, contrast pleasingly with
dark green shiny wavy-edged foliage.
The Name Ashok comes from “A-shok” - it removes
grief. It is also rumoured to be planted by the
emperor Ashoka, hence its name. Every Indian
knows about ‘Ashokavana’ aka ‘Ashokvatika’ where
Sita was held captive by Ravana, the demon king.
Sita refused to stay in Ravana’s palace and preferred
to stay under the Ashoka tree, another reason for its
name. The association of different trees with the life
of Lord Buddha is well known. The Buddha was born
in 563 BC. His birth took place under the Ashok tree.
Kalidas, the famous Sanskrit playwright &
poet, made this tree immortal in his play
‘Malavikagnimitram’ where the tree does not come
to bloom unless the damsel kicks it.
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BARRINGTONIA ASIATICA (fish poison tree, or sea poison tree) is a
very unique tree, known as Samudraphal. The fruit is dispersed in
the same way as a coconut – by ocean current – and is extremely
water-resistant and buoyant. It can survive afloat for up to fifteen
years. It was one of the first plants to colonise Anak Krakatau
when this island first appeared after the Krakatau eruption. When
washed ashore, and soaked by rainwater, the seeds germinate.
All parts of the tree are
poisonous, the active
poisons including
saponins. Box fruits
are potent enough
to be used as a fish
poison. The seeds are
ground to a powder
and used to stun or kill
fish for easy capture
suffocating the fish
while the flesh is
unaffected. The petals
of the flower attract
pollination and the
male parts fall off after
the pollination.
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THE JUNGLI BADAM TREE (sterculia feoetida). Both names mean badsmelling:
the name Sterculia comes from Sterquilinus, the Roman god of
fertilizer or manure.
The seeds of Sterculia foetida are edible, but purgative, and should be
roasted prior to eating. They are used to adulterate cocoa powder.
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The BAOBAB TREE, also known as Gorak
chinch or upside down tree, gets its name
from Bahobab, the Arabic “bu hibab,”
meaning “many-seeded fruit”. They are
native to Madagascar, Africa, Australia and
parts of SW Asia. It is leafless in summer.
The flowers open around dusk; opening so
quickly that movement can be detected by
the naked eye and are faded by the next
morning. They are pollinated by bats.
Baobabs store water in the trunk (up to
120,000 litres or 32,000 US gallons) to
endure harsh drought conditions. These
trees are extraordinarily long lived.
Specimens are known to have lived for
2000 years!
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The CANNON BALL TREE is from Central & South America.
It is cultivated in many other tropical areas throughout the
world because of its beautiful, fragrant flowers and large,
interesting fruits. One tree can hold as many as 1000 flowers
per day. The flowers are strongly scented, and are especially
fragrant at night and in the early morning. There are two
areas of stamens: a ring of stamens at the center, and an
arrangement of stamens that have been modified into a hood,
reminiscent of the naga of Lord Shiva. Although the flowers
lack nectar, they are very attractive to bees, which come for
the pollen. The flowers produce two types of pollen: fertile
pollen from the ring stamens, and sterile pollen from the
hood structure. The pollinators must work their way between
the two areas of stamens as they gather the pollen.
The seeds are dispersed by animals that feed on the fruits.
When the fruits fall to the ground, the hard, woody shell
usually cracks open, exposing the pulp and seeds. Fruits that
remain whole may be broken open by animals. he seeds are
covered with trichomes which may protect them as they pass
through the animals’ digestive systems. The fruit is edible,
but is not usually eaten by people because, in contrast to its
intensely fragrant flowers, it can have an unpleasant smell.
165

The KARANJ tree is often used for landscaping as a windbreak or for
shade due to the large canopy and showy, fragrant flowers. The flowers
are used by gardeners as compost for plants requiring rich nutrients. The
bark can be used to make twine or rope, and it also yields a black gum
that has historically been used to treat wounds caused by poisonous fish.
The tree can have millions of flowers , but only 10% of them germinate.
Oil made from the seeds, known as pongamia oil, has been used as lamp
oil, in soapmaking, and as a lubricant . The south Indian name for the
tree is pongam, which is why it is also known as Pongamia pinnata.
166

The BHEND tree has red flowers which
are like bhendi (ladyfinger) flowers. The
fruit too, when cut, has a sticky sap too,
just like bhendi.
The ground up bark is used to treat skin
diseases, dysentery and haemorrhoids.
Leaves are applied to inflamed and
swollen joints. When cut, the young fruit
secretes a yellow sticky sap used to treat
ringworm and other skin diseases. Roots
are used as a tonic.
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AMALTAS (Indian laburnum or Cassia fistula or golden shower tree, is a very beautiful tree with yellow flowers. Each flower is a
masterpiece, each tree an art gallery. The magnificent spray of flowers is about 60 cm long and the yellow varies. It is almost
like God was mixing the yellow paints to get the best hue and finally decided to use all those colours on his palette- gold, amber,
citrine… The fruits are long cylindrical pipes (fistula in Latin), with seeds arranged neatly like little compartments of a goods train.
The soft strong smelling sweetish pulp is a favourite with jackals and bears. Besides these, even pigs and monkeys, even civets and
porcupines are all unwitting agents in the propagation of this riveting ornamental tree.
In Ayurvedic medicine, the golden shower tree is known as aragvadha, meaning “disease killer”. The fruit pulp is considered a purgative.
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TREE OF LIFE -a medicinal tree.
Tree of Life is a tree yielding the true
lignum vitae, a wood once used to treat
syphilis. Lignum Vitae is the heaviest
and densest wood in the world and will
rapidly sink to the bottom when placed
in water. It resists rot caused by insects
and moisture so effectively that remains
of Lignum vitae wood used as posts for
dwellings by Taino Indians were found to
be over 800 years old. Some of the resins
active ingredients are effective anti
inflammatory agents. Due to this fact, it is
used against sore throut and gout.
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Another type of Mahogany tree
UMBER TREE. It is said that it can be used to locate the place
where borewells have to be dug.
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Ficus benghalensis was the original Banyan tree, named after the
Banias, hindu traders or merchants that conducted business under
the shade of the species. These plants all start life as a seed that
germinates on another tree, grows as a vine dependent on the tree
for support, and eventually strangles its host tree, subsuming its
structure. Later, roots grow from outward-extending branches and
reach the ground, becoming trunk-like and expanding the footprint of
the tree, sometimes gaining it the colloquial name of a ‘walking tree.’
Referred to as “the Vata-vriksha,” in India, the banyan is associated
with the god of death, Yama, and is often planted near crematoriums
outside of villages. It is said that the deity Krishna stood beneath a
banyan tree at Jyotisar when he delivered the sermon of the sacred
Sanskrit scripture, the Bhagavad Gita. The banyan also served as a
source of medicine and food for centuries, and the bark and roots
are still used today to treat a variety of disorders, particularly in
Ayurvedic medicine.
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Finally, inspired by Dr Singh and Dr. Mistry, next day, when I was on my
morning walk, I saw this unique tree on the Western Express Highway
near Vile Parle. I took a photo and took their help to identify it – the
SILK COTTON TREE.
The tree produces three-to-six-inch long, elliptical fruits. These fruits
contain many seeds surrounded by a dense mat of cottony fibers. The
tree gets its common name from these fibers which rain from the tree
when the fruits ripen. The fibers are almost pure cellulose, buoyant,
impervious to water, and have a low thermal conductivity, but they do
not lend themselves to spinning. Called Kapok in Asia, the fibers are
used for insulation, padding in sleeping bags and life preservers, and
for stuffing mattresses and pillows.
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Flamingo Sanctuary
Credit : Coastal & Marine Diversity Centre
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C
ome winter and thousands of pink flamingos fly into
the creeks and sanctuaries of Mumbai from northwest
India, Asia and beyond. The Thane Creek Flamingo
Sanctuary is one of their favorite haunts. Flamingos come
to Thane creek annually to feed on proliferating blue-green
algae. They stay for 6-7 months before they fly back to their
breeding grounds. Between October – May is a great time
to spot flamingos in Mumbai especially at the Thane creek
flamingo sanctuary where they number in tens of thousands.
Thane Creek Flamingo Sanctuary, also sometimes referred
to as the Airoli Flamingo Sanctuary (because of its location
in an area by the same name), is the first flamingo sanctuary
in India housed along the western bank of the Thane creek.
It encompasses more than 1600 hectares of mudflats,
mangroves, and water body between Vashi and Airoli. The
area was declared a flamingo sanctuary in 2015 and is home
to substantial bird life – both residential and migratory.
The flamingo boat rides conducted by the Coastal and
Marine Biodiversity Centre (CMBC) in Airoli are simply
fantastic. Visitors can see the birds from close quarters
during the rides. CMBC also has a separate information
centre and their team explains different aspects of
mangroves, birds, crabs, etc.
species with a pink, black-tipped bill] and Lesser Flamingo
[the smaller species with a brown bill]. Lesser flamingos are
believed to arrive from Kutch in Gujarat while the Greater
variety comes in from Northern and Central Asia, some as far
as Siberia and Eurasia.
It is strange to note that Mumbai’s pollution has actually
been a boon for these birds. Recently, flamingo numbers
have surged because of increased sewage levels at Thane
creek. This has led to a surge in algae growth which keeps
attracting more and more flamingos. More pollution -> more
algae -> more flamingos.
Young flamingos are usually born white or light gray in
colour. Once they start feeding on the blue-green algae at
swamps or wetlands, they start turning pink. That is because
this algae is loaded with beta carotene, a chemical that is
reddish orange in color. As the flamingo’s digestive system
continues to extract this pigment, its new feathers continue
turning pink.
You will notice flamingos in various shades of pink at Thane
creek. Some of them pure gray too! Remember that they
have been here only for a short while. While the crimson
ones are probably the oldest ones to fly in.
Every year Thane creek in Mumbai plays home to two
beautiful flamingo species – Greater Flamingo [the bigger
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Flamingo Chain
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Synchronicity

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Take-off

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Co-existence

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Curves

Angles
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Flock of Godwits

Aditya Pai, No Footprints Explore
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Worli Koliwada is one of the seven original islands of
Mumbai. It is an urban village that’s endowed with
rich cultural, historical and social significance.
It’s home to the Koli community, the original inhabitants of
Mumbai who came here 800 years ago. They stay here along
with the East Indians.
The Worli Koliwada walk takes you till the end of the
stretch where you will see fishermen repairing their boats,
sewing their nets or about to make a trip into the sea for
a fresh catch. This part of Koliwada also houses the Worli
Fort, built by the British and now a heritage monument.
Here, you will also get to see one of the most beautiful
sights in Mumbai - a small, colourful fishermen village
juxtaposed against the grand Bandra-Worli Sea Link on
one side and the high-rises of Maximum City on the other.
Worli is thus a prime commercial and residential location
in Mumbai.
In a short walk you get to see temples, grottos, churches,
jetties, Worlikar houses, the fish market, the Hindu
cemetery and the Worli fort. The Worli Koliwada is a maze
of narrow lanes dotted with old but picturesquely tucked
small houses, many flaunting Portuguese architecture
and abundant fish markets. The bylanes take you through
a culture walk showcasing the lives and lifestyles of the
native Kolis and more recent settlers. What better way to
spend a Sunday morning!
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The first thing you will strike
you about Worli Koliwada are
the colourful homes.
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The chaos and the cohesiveness co-exist in the unique Indian way

The Sai Baba Temple and
Panchayat – a picturesque
oasis in the midst of the
chaos.
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The Golfa Devi temple is a beautiful, renovated marble structure that glimmers in white and stands out
in the motley of colourful hutments around it. Inside, on a raised platform sits Golfa Devi in the form
of a black coloured stone idol adorned with a heavily embroidered cloth. She is accompanied by two
more goddesses Sakba Devi and Harba Devi, the idols of both which are kept on her either side. As soon as a
fisherman comes in to ask if it is safe to take the boat to sea that day, the priest places two tiny silver coloured
balls on the shoulder of the goddess. He says a few prayers and then asks the worshiper to ask their question-
either aloud or in their heads. If the silver ball on the left shoulder falls first, then the answer is apparently a no.
If the right one falls, it is a yes.
Though Golfa Devi is primarily visited by fisherfolk, other people too pay the goddess a visit to seek answers to
complex issues such as those of doing investments, buying assets, planning marriage etc. People come not just
from the coast of Maharashtra but also Gujarat, especially during Navratri.
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Temples, bells and lamps
Santoshi Mata Temple
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More Colourful homes

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1
2 3
1. Shree Datta Mandir.
2. Mother Mary in sari.3.
3. Marybai and Francis Albuquerque – The Portuguese influence.
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Dargah of Bibi Sakina and Fatima. They saved a couple
of fishermen from a boat that had capsized, but the
fishermen were not sure if they were human or divine. So
when one of the fishermen had a dream in which they appeared,
the decision to build a Dargah was taken.
The most famous Koli
INS Angre is a “stone frigate” (shore establishment) of the
Indian Navy in Mumbai. It is the shore-based logistics and
administrative support establishment of the Western Naval
Command. It is also the base depot ship of the Command and is
the seat of the Flag Officer Commanding-in-Chief Western Naval
Command. The establishment is named after the Maratha Navy
Admiral Kanhoji Angre, who was born in a Koli Family.
An Indian admiral of the Maratha Navy. Kanhoji became
noted for attacking and capturing European merchant ships
and collecting jakat known to locals as taxes, but seen by
Europeans as ransoming their crews. British, Dutch and
Portuguese ships were often victims of these raids. Despite
attempts by the Portuguese and British to put an end to his
activities, Angre continued to capture and collect jakat from
European merchant ships until his death in 1729. Kanhoji’s
naval prowess in capturing dozens of European trading
ships and avoiding capture has led to many historians to
appraise Kanhoji as the most skilled Indian admiral in the
maritime history of India.
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Sankat Mochan / Paap Mochan
Temple of Hanuman.
Garuda, the divine bird
from heaven.
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Crematorium ..
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More Interesting and Colourful Homes.
Notice the Christian Influence
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Colour Coordinated homes.
Mother Mary in Sari with Infant Jesus
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The Worli Fort is considered to have been built by the British around the 17th century as a lookout for enemy ships and pirates.
Alternate accounts suggest that it was built by the Portuguese during the 16th century. Regardless, overlooking the Mahim Bay
at a time when Mumbai was just a group of islands, the fort was of great strategic importance to the British Navy guarding
the western coast of the country.
The fort has a built-in well, a temple and plenty of space to soak in views of Mahim, Bandra and the iconic Bandra-Worli
Sea link. This fort is among the three that overlook the Mahim Bay on Mumbai’s western coast, with Mahim Fort and Bandra
Fort to its north. All three forts were adapted by the British to boost defence along the coast.
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Chintamani Shivdikar
“Machhli humare rag-rag mein hain, isiliye mere gaane mein samundar
hamesha rehta hai”—Fish run in our veins, so the sea is always present in my
songs—Chintamani Shivdikar told us as we sipped sweet chai from porcelain
cups in his home in Worli Koliwada, a fishing village in Mumbai. He was dressed
in white clothes and gold accessories; chains with fish pendants hung from his
neck, and bright rings branded each of his fingers. A folk singer and YouTube
star, Shivdikar is a local legend. He seems like a quintessential pop star, but his
story reveals the journey of the Kolis and their unique connection with the sea,
in a city obsessed with land reclamation.
Shivdikar forayed into the arts when he was six years old and won a prize in a
drama competition organised by the Kumar Kala Kendra, a local drama society.
Soon, he started singing, dancing and writing as a hobby. His father, who was
a performer as well, encouraged Shivdikar’s artistic inclinations. After college,
like everyone else around him, he got married and settled into a routine job,
albeit one that kept him close to the sea. “I worked at the naval docks for
forty-five years, retiring as an HSK-1 officer,” he told us, referring to his rank as a
highly skilled officer. Shivdikar continued to dabble in music. In 2018, he wrote
and sang “Papletwaali,” the song that catapulted him to YouTube stardom.
“Everytime I go out now, people stop me in the street and sing that song,”
he said. We too were lucky to enjoy that song!
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The Worli fort offers an unobstructed view of the Bandra Worli Sealink. You can see the Taj Land’s End in the distance too.

Mumbai is a city where the old and new co-exist. This is nowhere better exemplified than this view from Worli Fort.
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God permeates their lives. Not just
Hindu Gods but Christian ones too.
The Vetal Dev temple – the God of
Dark arts, Vetal is worshipped as
Lord Shankara in the form of Warrior.
This Temple has three Deities, Vetal
Dev, Agni Vetal, and Golfa Devi. The
fishermen take blessings here first
before venturing into the sea.
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Despite its stellar development, Mumbai cannot ignore the
knowledge that resides with its earliest inhabitants, the Koli
community. Despite the world around them changing drastically,
the Kolis largely follow their traditional occupation – fishing, and have
been able to retain their unique cultural identity. They were also aware
of the ecological aspects. They stopped their fishing in the monsoon
season because it was the breeding season for the fish and thereafter
their nets had bigger holes to let the smaller fish pass through.
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Dried Fish
Bystander waiting on the boat, for his share of the catch.
The city’s fisherfolk adapt their cuisine when the monsoon
makes seas too rough to navigate. The community’s
seasonal delicacies mainly feature fish that were sun-dried
and stored in the summer. The process of drying fish is visible
across various koliwadas in the city, where one is often met
with the sharp pungent smell of dried fish. They say - “We dry
the bombil on bamboo rows known as valanti or mandav. It
takes three to four days for them to dry properly in the hot sun.
The prawns (kolin/jawla) are dried on the roof or floor near the
coast, which is kept for drying them.”
With all the fish around, can the cats be far away?
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