Highland Walks by Nick Drainey sampler

HIGHLAND WALKS
Hand-picked walks accessible from
the public transport network between
PERTH and INVERNESS
NICK DRAINEY

nick drainey has been hillwalking since his parents took him up
the Lake District fells as a small boy in the 1970s. His career as a
journalist took him to Scotland in 1998 and a love of the country’s
landscapes grew into writing about walking. Now he is trying to
instil the same love of the outdoors in his own children.
Since leaving university he has been a journalist, formerly with the
Press Association, The Scotsman and The Times, among others, and
now works as a freelance concentrating on the outdoors and rural
issues for newspapers, magazines and radio.
He wrote this book to encourage families, friends and individuals
to enjoy the wonderful scenery between Perth and Inverness. As
well as accurate route descriptions, it is full of points of interest,
for example a good spot for a picnic, fascinating historical facts or
simply a great place to skim stones.
More of his work can be found at walking-scotland.com

Highland Walks
Hand-picked walks accessible from the public transport network
between Perth and Inverness
NICK DRAINEY

First published 2022
isbn: 978-1-91022-57-3
The author’s right to be identified as author of this book
under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 has been asserted.
The paper used in this book is recyclable. It is made
from low chlorine pulps produced in a low energy,
low emissions manner from renewable forests.
Printed and bound by
iPrint Global Ltd., Ely
Typeset in 9.5 point Sabon by
Main Point Books, Edinburgh
Images and text © Nick Drainey 2022

Contents
Acknowledgements 7
Introduction 9
Important Information 11
route 1: Kinnoull Hill, Perth 14
route 2: Deuchny Wood, Perth 18
route 3: River Tay, Perth 22
route 4: Birnam Hill 26
route 5: Inchewan Burn and the Hermitage, Birnam 30
route 6: Craigvinean, near Birnam 36
route 7: The River Tay and the Birnam Oak 40
route 8: Loch of the Lowes, Dunkeld 44
route 9: Atholl Woods, Dunkeld 48
route 10: Black Spout Waterfall, Pitlochry 52
route 11: Loch Faskally, Pitlochry 56
route 12: Clunie Path, Pitlochry 60
route 13: Ben Vrackie, Pitlochry 64
route 14: Red Squirrel Walk, Blair Atholl 68

oute 15: Glen Banvie, Blair Atholl 72
route 16: Glen Tilt Viewpoint, Blair Atholl 76
route 17: Falls of Bruar 80
route 18: Loch Ericht, Dalwhinnie 84
route 19: The Wildcat Trail, Newtonmore 88
route 20: Insh Marshes, near Kingussie 92
route 21: Creag Bheag, Kingussie 96
route 22: Frank Bruce Sculpture Trail and the River Feshie 100
route 23: Loch An Eilein, near Aviemore 104
route 24: Glenmore, near Aviemore 108
route 25: Meall a’ Bhuachaille and the Ryvoan Valley 112
route 26: Craigellachie, Aviemore 116
route 27: Calderwood Viewpoint, Carrbridge 120
route 28: River Dulnain and the woods of Carrbridge 124
route 29: River Ness and its islands, Inverness 128
route 30: Craig Phadrig, Inverness 132
route 31: Caledonian Canal, Inverness 136
route 32: Chanonry Point, Black Isle 140

7
Acknowledgements
I need to thank my parents for teaching me to walk in the first place, and
then instilling a love of doing so in the outdoors which has served me
well through my life.
Gratitude must also go to Gavin and the team at Luath for having faith
in me and for their guidance in helping to produce this book, particularly
Jennie Renton and Madeleine Mankey.
Finally, Judy needs praise for putting up with me always wanting to
be in the wilds, and our children Anna and Eric for trialling some of the
methods of having fun on the way. And I would like to thank the late
Gill Hartley who gave me and my family some wonderful tips about how
to keep everyone happy and enthusiastic on a walk.

9
Introduction
This is not a book for those who see hills and mountains as places to
train for the SAS. It is designed for people of all ages who want to explore
more of the wonderful landscapes in Scotland.
The following pages are full of routes for everyone which can be used by
walkers looking to find new, exciting places to see. They are also a great
way to introduce friends and family to the joys of walking amid superb
scenery.
I once got some sound advice from my son who was around 8 at the
time – he told me a walk by a burn and around a wee lochan had been ‘ok’
but would have been much better if there had been ‘more time to stop and
play’. What he meant was walking with children should be more about the
exploration on the way, than getting to the actual objective.
And it is that sense of discovery which can make a stroll a brilliant
adventure, whoever you are. Adults also benefit from enjoying a new
experience and they can take some of the tips given to enjoy the walks and
maybe ‘stand and stare’, as the poet WH Davies would have had us do, or
slow the pace to spot wildlife – and you are never too old for hide and seek!
This guidebook is great for anyone who wants to explore the grandeur
of Perthshire and the Highlands. It aims to provide walks for all levels of
ability and fitness involving a variety of settings from big hills to rivers,
glens and little lochans. None of the routes are technically challenging
and can be enjoyed by anyone, although some take longer than others
and therefore involve more exertion, and a little more preparation in
terms of clothing, food and water, etc. The routes are graded in a way
that makes it clear they are mainly suitable for all. However, some will
require at least average fitness, sometimes more for the higher hills. The
harder routes are graded as needing ‘good’ fitness – this does not mean
you need to be able to run a marathon, just have the ability to keep going
for a few hours.
The routes are between Perth and Inverness, a stunning area of
Highland landscapes. They have easy access from the Central Belt of
Scotland, and virtually all can be started at a railway station, or from a
bus taken from the station, reducing the environmental impact of a trip
to the outdoors. However, for two reasons most routes begin at a car
park. One, this is usually where you will find information boards about
the locality. Two, with the ongoing Covid situation some may still want

10 highland walks: perth to inverness
to avoid public transport, especially if they have a health condition. Let
us hope that in the not-too-distant future the latter changes.
I used to think a ‘proper walk’ meant climbing up a big mountain; a
short stroll was really not worth it, it was something for when I reached
infirmity. Then, when my children were still pre-school, we went to a
nature reserve and walked for just under a mile, looking for newts and
dragonflies (I didn’t tell them about the adders). It was a great experience
and taught me that what is right in front of you can be just as fascinating
as a distant peak.
For each route, I suggest ideas for keeping children going when energy
levels and/or enthusiasm start to flag – many of them might also appeal
to adults. This can be anything from wildlife spotting to telling stories,
playing games to having a bag of sweets to hand (never underestimate
the power of a sweet – at any age). There are also some wonderful picnic
spots included.
When deciding where to go it is a good idea to think about the many
components to a walk. That is not an attempt to turn a 2-hour stroll into
a mini-Himalayan adventure, but it is worth considering that the first
thought is often the challenge of a route, then what can be enjoyed, such
as a distant view or a particular spot, or a waterfall.
Overall, remembering the fun element is key. Sometimes you might not
finish a walk because so much time has been spent enjoying everything
along the way – and that is a good thing. And if an afternoon has been
taken up looking at a view over a leisurely picnic or skimming stones in a
burn, the health benefits will still be there.
Putting the emphasis on having a good time helps to increase
confidence in all walkers but there are some practical considerations as
well. If you are unsure, don’t try a longer route before you have built up
some experience – start small and work up to harder walks over time.
Each route also has an interesting set of facts, or a story about the
area. These can be used to keep interest levels going, and spark some
imagination if the story involves life in Scotland many centuries ago.
Always have in mind that it is all about having fun and discovering the
brilliant landscapes of Perthshire and the Highlands.

Important Information
11
WHAT TO TAKE
A pair of stout shoes or walking boots is a good idea on some of the
longer routes although not necessary on some routes, such as the stroll
by the River Tay in Perth.
Always take spare clothes; the ability of young children to get wet or
muddy, even in the middle of a drought is unlimited. A t-shirt, pair of
shorts and socks in the rucksack can be invaluable.
Similarly, the capacity of the Scottish weather to go from heatwave to
downpour is astounding so a waterproof should be remembered.
As well as snacks to keep them going (permitted bribery), a packed
lunch may be needed on some of the longer routes. Water is perhaps
the most important form of
sustenance, even on a cool
day – I always take slightly
more than I think we will
need.
MAPS
Adventure awaits for young and old on any walk
– these are the enchanting woods above Loch
Dunmore, near Pitlochry (P56)
The maps in the book are
intended as a guide only
and it is a good idea to take
an Ordnance Survey map
with you, and to learn how
to read a map (trying to do
it with a map where you
live helps with this). Map
reading can also be a way
of keeping up interest levels
in children. Digital mapping
is increasing in popularity
and there are some great
apps around but remember
that batteries can go flat and
signals can drop out.

12 highland walks: perth to inverness
PLANNING AROUND THE WEATHER
If you want children to enjoy a walk and want to go on another one,
don’t set off in a howling gale. All of the routes in this book will be here
for centuries, more than likely millennia, so if the weather is poor, save
it for another day. Sometimes it can be useful to have a reserve walk in
mind, a distance from the original objective, or at a lower level, which
can mean better weather conditions.
LAND ACCESS
Scotland has some of the best land access rights in the world but they
do come with responsibility. All the routes in this book have permitted
access although remember things like keeping dogs under close control
near livestock, and taking care when crossing a golf course or walking
along a field with growing crops.
There are beaches to be enjoyed, even in the Cairngorms – Loch Morlich has a wonderful
stretch of sand passed on the Glenmore route

important information
13
The Wildcat Trail near Newtonmore (P88) has lots of signs – they help with route finding but
look at a map as well
KEEPING CHILDREN ENTHUSED
This is the most important thing to remember if you want everyone to
have a good time – the walks are not route marches or workouts, they
are an opportunity for discovery and adventure. Don’t worry if you
get side-tracked and cut a walk short because children want to play up
a tree but do use the tips outlined in each chapter to keep them going,
and always remember the key word is fun. Remember too, it is not just
children who need to have some other reason than the walk itself to put
their boots on – that is why the ‘Fun on the Way’ suggestions you will
find in each chapter apply to all. Enjoy!

14 highland walks: perth to inverness
1. Kinnoull Hill, Perth
map: explorer 369
distance: 2.5 miles / 4km • ascent: 290ft / 90m • time: 1.5–2 hrs
getting there: jubilee car park
The Jubilee Car Park is 1.5 miles from Perth on the minor Muirhall Road
to Kinfauns which begins at the end of Perth Bridge. If arriving in Perth by
train, you can catch the 811x from York Place or South Street (in the city
centre) to Muirhall Road, near its junction with Langley Drive – from there
it is a three-quarter mile walk (east) to the car park.
terrain: suitable for all
Surfaced and rough paths. Gentle gradients. Cliff edges.
great for: Stunning views and a woodland stroll in a peaceful setting.
A great wee hill with brilliant views over the Tay as it makes its final journey
towards Dundee and the open sea. Good paths and a steady gradient make this a
good walk for all but it can be combined with the Deuchny Wood walk to make a
6-mile route.
THE ROUTE
Go to the information boards at
the end of the car park and turn
right to cross a road. Walk up a
track on the other side then bear
left when it forks to go past a
wooden gate. A wide path leads up
Trig
Point
Kinnoull
Tower
Perth
to the left then winds its way along
the edge of woodland.
Ignore a turning to the right
signed for Corsiehill car park and
follow the path into woodland,
where there are delightful views
of the Tay through the trees.
Start/
Finish
At the next junction, go
sharp left to complete this
section up to Kinnoull
Tower. (Be aware of very
severe drops down cliffs
around here.)
After admiring the
tower (or, like Jane
Austen, commenting on its
‘hideous… dungeon like
form’), you will certainly

1. kinnoull hill, perth
15
Grazing horses at the start of the walk, just after crossing road from the car park
The view over the Tay from the woodland close to the tower, a good place to catch your breath

Looking back to Kinnoull Tower – built to resemble the landscape near the Rhine
enjoy the magnificent vistas.
Continue on the main path
which runs near the cliff edge. At a
clearing with views south over the
Tay, go right onto a surfaced path
up to the Trig Point and viewfinder
on top of Kinnoull Hill. There
are great views north to Highland
Perthshire and, on a very clear day,
to the Cairngorms beyond.
Beyond the Trig Point, the
surfaced path goes right and drops
down through mixed woodland.
At a marker post with an
arrow pointing straight ahead, go
right until you reach a wooden
footbridge. (If using the bus, follow
the arrow straight ahead to reach
Corsie Hill Road, then turn right to
reach Muirhall Road, where a left
turn will take you to a bus stop.)
Continue through the woods to
a junction, then turn left, following
the sign for the Jubilee Car Park.
About 100 yards further on, go
straight ahead at a junction and
return to the start, taking time to
listen to birdsong.

17
Kinnoull Tower with the Tay beyond
fun on the way: Take a camera, or use a smartphone, to get children
recording their own images of the walk. With a smartphone you can also
record sounds such as birdsong in the woods or the bubbling of a burn.
did you know? Kinnoull Tower, an 18th century folly designed to make
the sheer cliffs above the Tay resemble the Rhine, was built by the 9th Earl
of Kinnoull after a visit to Germany.
This area was also the childhood home of Sir Patrick Geddes (1854–1932).
Biologist, botanist and town planner, Geddes was raised in Corsiehill, on
the north side of Kinnoull Hill. Seen as a father of the Green movement,
Geddes coined the term ‘Think Global, Act Local’ and his insights into
the relationship between man and the environment continue to inspire
today.

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I used to think a ‘proper
walk’ meant climbing up
a big mountain...
nick drainey
While other guides plot intrepid mountaineering
missions, workouts and route marches, this book
returns to the core of what walking really means. It is
unhurried, leisurely and, most importantly, an ‘act of
travelling’ – an experience, not a box to be ticked.
Highland Walks provides details of environmentallyconscious
and budget-friendly outings for all the family.
Each walk is hand-picked to be accessible from the
public transport network between Perth and Inverness.
Walk times and difficulty ratings are set out for every
route, alongside interesting facts for curious minds and
key landmarks to spot.
Once you learn to lose yourself without ever leaving
the path, every stroll can become an adventure.
Luath Press Ltd.
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FRONT COVER IMAGE: ANNA DRAINEY
BACK COVER IMAGE AND MAP: NICK DRAINEY MEDIA LTD
AUTHOR PHOTOGRAPH: NICK DRAINEY MEDIA LTD
DESIGN: EILIDH MACLENNAN