Ludlow Lifestyle Jul - Aug 2022

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aymond blanc Bon appetit Editor Katie Thomson caught up with acclaimed French chef Raymond Blanc following his appearance at this year’s Blenheim Palace Food Festival – we talked all things sustainability, the British food scene and his love of teaching… Food and produce are at the centre of your life – you exude such a passion for it – where did this passion begin? It began in my childhood, in Franche- Comté. My mother was the greatest inspiration of my life. Through her I learnt about the importance of seasonality and the purity of ingredients. I was very much her kitchen helper and it wasn’t until the age of 14 that I made my first dish – crêpes Suzette, thin pancakes in a sweet sauce of caramel and Grand Marnier. I made about 30 pancakes, as light as feathers, and I was an extremely proud teenager. I folded them and arranged them on a big Pyrex dish. Then I made a light brown caramel, adding the juice of orange and lemon, and then the Grand Marnier. I poured the sauce over the pancakes and then decided to reheat the whole thing on a gas ring. Perfect! Or so I thought. At that moment catastrophe struck. The Pyrex dish exploded into millions of tiny pieces. Of course it was a blow to my ego but, as you know, I am delighted to say it didn’t put me off cooking. How important is the garden at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons? There is not just one garden in the grounds – there are many, from the potager to the orchards and herb gardens, and the valley of mushrooms and the Japanese garden with its little tea-house. For me, it is a daily ritual to wander through these enchanting gardens with their unusual herbs and the sweet, exotic scents of near and faraway places. Every little part of Le Manoir helps to make it a place with soul, a big heart and an appetite for humanity. My childhood in postwar France might seem ancient and simplistic, and we may have lacked today’s science or high-tech values, but we had one great asset: common sense. Information was passed on from one generation to another. We understood and appreciated that food connected with everything – the table, the family, environment, society, health. We respected what came from the soil. You’ve always been passionate about putting vegetables in the spotlight – do you think we are reconnecting with our understanding of produce and how it links to both our health and the environment? It begins with the young. We have to teach our children about the value of a meal, and instil in them that sense of place, of region. We need to show our children what flourishes near their homes and how to grow our own vegetables in the garden. If that’s not possible we can use window boxes and teach our children the miracle of the little seeds that contain the life force. If you grow and cook your own vegetables, life will feel better and you and your family will feel better. You will be part of gastronomy, too! 14 | www.minervamagazines.co.uk
Have you seen the British restaurant industry change since the 1970s? Beyond belief. When I crossed the Channel in the seventies the nation was in economic turmoil and the quality of the food supply chain was not questioned; it had become an irrelevance. We had embraced intensive farming, and we held it as a triumph. This was reflected in the restaurant industry which, yes, has changed dramatically, so that today London is considered one of the great gastromic cities of the world. Remember, food connects with every single part of our lives, a truth that was ignored for decades. Oh, how times have changed. ADVERTISING FEATURE Do you think our appreciation of food in Britain has had a similar overhaul? Yes, and also think of ‘the positives’ of the pandemic. Lockdowns encouraged many people to head for the kitchen and discover the great pleasures of cooking. It made me think about how it would impact on our lifestyles and the food we eat. We will seriously tackle food waste, and we will be closer to our farmers, butchers, fishmongers, cheesemakers and our other food producers. We do need to reconnect more with seasonality and the provenance and authenticity of produce. Sustainability must be the driving force in the years to come. We’ll rediscover our skills, grow more and import less. That’s good for the farmers and the economy. I have long felt that by digging into the past, we shall find our future. Maybe I am just an old romantic, but I do believe truly that this will happen. You appeared at the Blenheim Palace Food Festival this summer – what were the highlights in this special Jubilee year? The Blenheim Food Festival is a wonderful event with the focus firmly on eating well. It is buzzy, happy and fun, with lots of artisan producers with stalls, and cookery demonstrations. I hosted a question-and-answer session, and talked about my life, as well as my latest book, Simply Raymond, which is a little treasure chest of easy recipes. Do you enjoy sharing your knowledge – both on stage and to your brigade at Le Manoir? Without question, teaching is one of the greatest pleasures of my life. Over the years thousands have come to learn at the Raymond Blanc Cookery School at Le Manoir. And to think of the many young chefs who have come to work at Le Manoir ... and gone on to win Michelin stars! What has been your proudest achievement as a chef? Ultimately, it is sharing knowledge and watching others become masters of the incredible crafts of cooking and looking after our guests. I must tell you also of a special highlight… Many years ago the Queen Mother came to Le Manoir. With her entourage she enjoyed a particularly fabulous and long lunch, and then she stood and led her guests in a rendition of Le Marseillaise. Then she insisted that I gather together about 80 members of staff so that she could personally thank them for the wonderful experience. I am French Republican but I must tell you that on that day when the Queen Mum visited I came very close to becoming a royalist. Fantastic Food Festivals is hosting two more festivals this summer. The iconic Royal Victoria Park situated in the historical city of Bath will host the next food festival on Friday 29th July to Sunday 31st July with the final festival at Upton Country Park in picturesque Poole during the Bank Holiday on Saturday 27th August – Monday 29th August 2022. For more information and tickets visit www.fantasticfoodfestivals.co.uk ‘Simply Raymond: Recipes from home’ by Raymond Blanc (£25, Headline) is out now www.minervamagazines.co.uk | 15
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Ludlow Lifestyle Jul - Aug 2022

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