8 NO. OF CONSTITUENCIES NO. OF VOTERS 9
8 NO. OF CONSTITUENCIES NO. OF VOTERS 9
8 NO. OF CONSTITUENCIES NO. OF VOTERS 9
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Kolkata Saturday May 7, 2011<br />
www.thebengalpost.com MISCELLANY 9<br />
Beauty of emotions captured for all<br />
Adam Thirlwell<br />
There are many methods<br />
for turning your life into<br />
a piece of performance art,<br />
and one of them is to get a<br />
dog. A dog is a wild experiment.<br />
Or so you can argue<br />
by observing the example of<br />
JR Ackerley, who was a<br />
friend of Forster and Woolf,<br />
editor of the Listener, determined<br />
prowler for boys and<br />
the owner, for 15 of her<br />
161/2 years, of a German<br />
shepherd called Queenie,<br />
whom he described, under<br />
a transformed name, in his<br />
memoir My Dog Tulip — first<br />
published in 1965, two<br />
years before he died aged 71<br />
— which has now been<br />
made into a gorgeous animated<br />
film by Paul and<br />
Sandra Fierlinger.<br />
This book is the greatest<br />
of dog books, and now this<br />
film is the greatest of dog<br />
films — to invent two<br />
unnecessary genres — but<br />
before the unprepared<br />
reader imagines an account<br />
of cuteness, it’s necessary to<br />
state an opposite truth: the<br />
basic subjects of My Dog<br />
Tulip are pissing, shitting<br />
and reproducing.<br />
And so one way of admiring<br />
My Dog Tulip is to see it<br />
as a manic critique of the<br />
usual norms of representation.<br />
In Ulysses, James Joyce<br />
recorded Bloom on the lavatory,<br />
"calm above his own<br />
rising smell"; or in his hallucinations<br />
offering his wife’s<br />
lover a helpful tub of<br />
Vaseline. But then there is<br />
Ackerley. One long chapter<br />
of his short book is correctly<br />
called "Liquids and Solids". In<br />
another episode, trying to<br />
encourage Tulip to have sex,<br />
he "smeared Tulip lavishly<br />
with vaseline".<br />
The experimental, radical<br />
forms of the novel have<br />
often processed with dogs<br />
as their motif. Like Celine in<br />
From Castle to Castle —<br />
praising the gracious, private<br />
manner in which his<br />
dog died — "the trouble<br />
with men’s death throes is<br />
all the fuss " Or I remember<br />
the interview David Foster<br />
Wallace gave to Dave Eggers<br />
in the Believer in 2003: "If<br />
you live by yourself and<br />
have dogs, things get<br />
strange. I know I’m not the<br />
only person who projects<br />
skewed parental neuroses<br />
on to his pets or companion-animals<br />
or whatever."<br />
It’s only correct, this rueful<br />
observation of the OuLiPian<br />
constrictions that a dog<br />
places on a life - but this<br />
parentless, I think, is only a<br />
Moulay Idriss opens to night tourism<br />
Stephanie Theobald<br />
Until 2005, non-Muslims<br />
were not permitted to<br />
stay overnight in Moulay<br />
Idriss. Guide books warned<br />
the tourists who dared to<br />
visit to be out of town by<br />
3pm. This is what Edith<br />
Wharton had to do in 1919<br />
when she visited the town,<br />
known as the holiest place<br />
in the country, to research<br />
her classic travel memoir In<br />
Morocco. Although there<br />
was nowhere for her to stay,<br />
she claimed she was the<br />
first foreigner to witness the<br />
town’s frenetic moussem -<br />
the music- and dancedrenched<br />
summer celebration<br />
considered by many<br />
Moroccans as an alternative<br />
to the Muslim pilgrimage to<br />
Mecca.<br />
Well, there are places to<br />
stay now, and an intriguing<br />
new restaurant run by Mike<br />
Richardson, former maitre<br />
d’ of the Wolseley and the<br />
Ivy who recently became<br />
the first foreigner to buy a<br />
property here. The redheaded<br />
pioneer moved to<br />
Fez, an hour east, five years<br />
ago to set up Cafe Clock<br />
(concept: crazy Moroccan<br />
souk meets Venice Beachstyle<br />
cafe, with camel burgers)<br />
and now intends to do<br />
the same thing in Moulay<br />
Idriss.<br />
"Foreigners are warmly<br />
welcomed now," he says,<br />
adding that Moulay Idriss’s<br />
reputation as an unwelcoming<br />
place wasn’t down to<br />
religious sensitivities alone.<br />
"From what I can gather," he<br />
says, "the myths come about<br />
because the place is so special.<br />
The Moroccans wanted<br />
to keep it a secret."<br />
His new restaurant, Dar<br />
Akrab (Scorpion House), is<br />
perched on one of two hills<br />
in this ancient town where<br />
Moulay Idriss el Akhbar,<br />
great-grandson of the<br />
prophet Muhammad and<br />
the man who brought Islam<br />
to Morocco 1,200 years ago,<br />
is buried. It has the exciting<br />
allure of a place not yet starstruck<br />
by the promises of<br />
tourism.<br />
Tour buses from Fez used<br />
to come no nearer than<br />
Volubilis, an eerily abandoned<br />
Roman city 20 minutes’<br />
walk from the town.<br />
There is still no regular public<br />
transport; the cheapest<br />
way to get here is in a<br />
shared "grand" taxi from Fez<br />
or Meknes. The climb to Dar<br />
Akrab is steep, but worth it<br />
for the incredible mountain<br />
views from the white minimalistterrace<br />
Once a no-go area, Morocco’s holiest town is starting to woo tourists<br />
as you eat your scrambled<br />
eggs with desert truffles, or<br />
your Moroccan barbecue,<br />
the house speciality. In a<br />
Moroccan barbecue the<br />
meat, usually lamb, is<br />
cooked Mechouia-style (a<br />
Berber as opposed to Arabic<br />
method) - outdoors over hot<br />
coals and basted with a<br />
herby, spicy marinade made<br />
of cumin, paprika and<br />
coriander.<br />
Even for the non-famous,<br />
Fez can feel claustrophobic<br />
after a couple of days, and<br />
the huge skies and dramatic<br />
views of Moulay Idriss are a<br />
tonic. Other attractions<br />
include ancient Roman hot<br />
springs, a 10-minute walk<br />
away in the peaceful hills,<br />
with two moderate-sized<br />
baths built into the foothills<br />
of Mount Zerhoune. You can<br />
swim here: the water smells<br />
of cumin and hot stone. (In<br />
the summer, Richardson<br />
says, it is "boy soup".) But<br />
even if you don’t take a dip,<br />
it’s worth the climb for the<br />
astonishing views. Looking<br />
down on the vast plains of<br />
Volubilis gives a<br />
real sense of<br />
being in<br />
Africa - as<br />
well as a<br />
My Dog Tulip by J R Ackerley has won several awards and is being lauded as the greatest dog film<br />
flash of what Roman Africa<br />
might have felt like.<br />
Thanks to Dar Akrab,<br />
Moulay Idriss is starting to<br />
wake up. Mike’s local friend,<br />
Fayssal, runs a new fiveroom<br />
guesthouse, Dar<br />
Zerhoune. It’s a modest<br />
wood-framed, tile-floored<br />
boutique hotel with classic<br />
keyhole-shaped doors, lots<br />
of romantic balconies and a<br />
rare baraka or carving to<br />
Muhammad in the central<br />
courtyard denoting that<br />
part of the house originally<br />
came from Mecca.<br />
The conservatory-style<br />
dining room on the cushioned<br />
roof terrace has<br />
(again) incredible mountain<br />
views. Breakfasts come with<br />
local honey and couscous<br />
bread dipped in olive oil<br />
from a grove just down the<br />
road.<br />
Food and friendliness are<br />
the biggest attractions of<br />
Dar Zerhoune. The only<br />
other real competitor is La<br />
Colombe Blanche (maisondhote-zerhoune.ma),opposite<br />
Moulay Idriss’s tomb. It<br />
has eight bedrooms in classic<br />
mis-matched Moroccan<br />
style (inexplicably, most of<br />
the furniture is covered<br />
with doilies).<br />
Fayssal’s dad, Mustapha,<br />
is a great host, too.<br />
Once a week, he offers<br />
guests the option of his tangia,<br />
the Moroccan hotpot<br />
famously only cooked by<br />
men. It’s a very male dish in<br />
that there’s lots of meat and<br />
not much work. You take a<br />
big ceramic urn to the<br />
butcher, get him to fill it up<br />
with spiced meat and then<br />
you take it down to the<br />
hammam. You leave it in the<br />
hammam fire, go off and<br />
have a good steam, and<br />
when you’re ready, you take<br />
it home and announce, "Hey<br />
honey, I made the dinner!"<br />
The big show-off moment<br />
comes when Mustapha<br />
empties the urn in front of<br />
me. The richness of the<br />
sauce and the tenderness of<br />
the meat momentarily<br />
shock me to silence as the<br />
inscrutable Fayssal and his<br />
jovial dad smile down at me.<br />
There seems to be a bit of<br />
an invasion of London<br />
maitre d’s in these parts:<br />
Mike has just named his former<br />
Wolseley colleague<br />
Robert Johnstone (also a former<br />
maitre d’s at the Ivy) as<br />
the manager of Dar Akrab.<br />
He’s also putting Muslimfriendly<br />
cocktails on the<br />
menu: "Alcohol-free but full<br />
of bright colours and glitz.<br />
We’re going to bring in a bit<br />
of glamour." — The Guardian<br />
small part of the strange<br />
lurid transference and mess<br />
that exists between dogs<br />
and humans. Really, the<br />
experiment is even crazier.<br />
It might be common to<br />
observe that dogs and their<br />
owners begin to resemble<br />
each other - but I think this<br />
is the mind’s illusion, a convenient<br />
way of observing<br />
that each dog, instead,<br />
exists in relation to its<br />
owner’s unconscious. And<br />
an unconscious is a complicated<br />
thing. Sometimes, the<br />
wildness of a human<br />
requires a corresponding<br />
neatness in the dog; and<br />
sometimes the neatness of a<br />
human requires a corresponding<br />
wildness.<br />
But then, in the end,<br />
there’s no such thing as an<br />
unwild dog.<br />
Consider the following<br />
moment in Ackerley’s<br />
description of Tulip. He<br />
takes Tulip to a series of<br />
vets, with all of whom she is<br />
in a manic flurry. She can<br />
only be sadly compared, say,<br />
to an obedient spaniel he<br />
can observe "standing quietly<br />
on a table with a thermometer<br />
sticking out of his<br />
bottom, like a cigarette".<br />
Finally, he discovers Miss<br />
Canvey. With Miss Canvey,<br />
Tulip is calm. And Ackerley -<br />
Tim Rushby-Smith<br />
The first time I got into a<br />
wheelchair I felt<br />
euphoric. After a month<br />
spent in bed, reflecting on all<br />
the things I would never do<br />
again - no more climbing or<br />
playing football - it was a joy<br />
just to be able to move again.<br />
Four weeks earlier my physically<br />
active lifestyle had<br />
come to a sudden stop when<br />
I fell from a tree, resulting in<br />
a spinal-cord injury which<br />
left me facing life with paraplegia.<br />
Yet, on my second day in<br />
the chair, I felt crushed<br />
again; as though I had just<br />
learned to ride a bike only to<br />
be told that I had to stay on<br />
the bike for the rest of my<br />
life. The restrictions of four<br />
wheels quickly became evident.<br />
I couldn’t move while<br />
holding anything, and it felt<br />
like everywhere I looked I<br />
saw stairs. The wheelchair<br />
suddenly represented everything<br />
I had lost. Then one<br />
afternoon I went along to a<br />
wheelchair-skills session at<br />
Stoke Mandeville hospital<br />
near London, which specialises<br />
in spinal injuries,<br />
organised by a charity called<br />
The Back Up Trust. Trainer<br />
David Ball had been injured<br />
for 15 years and was preparing<br />
for a fundraising push up<br />
Helvellyn, a 950-metre peak<br />
in the Lake District.<br />
He was relaxed and<br />
assured — but most inspiring<br />
was how he seemed at<br />
one with his wheelchair. As<br />
well as learning practical<br />
what else? — is distraught:<br />
Was it not even possible<br />
that, in the course of time,<br />
under these civilizing<br />
processes, she would<br />
become so tame, so characterless,<br />
so commonplace,<br />
that she might one day be<br />
found standing in a surgery<br />
alone with a thermometer<br />
in her bottom?<br />
Ackerley is in love with<br />
the dogginess of dogs -<br />
impervious to the artificial<br />
disgusts which humans call<br />
civilisation. For if kitsch is<br />
the negation of shit, then<br />
there are very few things<br />
less kitsch than a dog.<br />
Which is why, after<br />
Ackerley’s examination of<br />
liquids and solids, the main<br />
subject of My Dog Tulip is<br />
his attempt to offer Tulip a<br />
sex life. And there’s a way in<br />
which this search for sex is<br />
also Ackerley’s, so it’s possible<br />
to see this book as a<br />
great fantasia of the unconscious<br />
— but its real truth is<br />
more radical.<br />
This book is a study in the<br />
problem of otherness. This<br />
is its deeper critique, of the<br />
conventional art of representation<br />
— the fake<br />
Forsterian categories of flat<br />
and round character.<br />
Early on, Ackerley<br />
describes the one moment<br />
� Life in a wheel chair isn’t as limiting once you’ve learnt the moves<br />
Acquiring traits of<br />
a second nature<br />
skills, the session helped me<br />
to start rebuilding my ambitions.<br />
I would even get back<br />
to the great outdoors. The<br />
logistics might be challenging,<br />
but it was possible.<br />
Five years later, I am one<br />
of 28 Back Up wheelchairskills<br />
instructors, striving to<br />
offer the same confidence<br />
boost to others. We take the<br />
programme to all 13 spinal<br />
units in the UK.<br />
Naturally we cover the<br />
basics: pushing forwards,<br />
backwards and turning. But<br />
there are also more complex<br />
moves — pushing with one<br />
hand, negotiating ramps and<br />
kerbs, going down and even<br />
up stairs.<br />
Some skills, such as stairclimbing<br />
are only going to be<br />
possible for a few people<br />
(the technique requires the<br />
wheelchair user to go up<br />
backwards pulling on one<br />
wheel and a handrail) but<br />
we hope to inspire participants<br />
to rethink what the<br />
future might hold, at a time<br />
when many people can’t see<br />
beyond what they can’t do.<br />
Luckily for me, I was<br />
active before my accident so<br />
my arms regained their<br />
strength fairly easily after a<br />
month’s bedrest, but it’s<br />
more difficult for those who<br />
had a sedentary life before,<br />
as it takes time to build up<br />
the muscles, especially in<br />
the backs of the arms, that<br />
you need to manoeuvre easily<br />
in a wheelchair. It is estimated<br />
that 20% of people<br />
with spinal-cord injury<br />
undergo rehabilitation in<br />
when, by mistake, Tulip bit<br />
his hand.<br />
We all make mistakes and<br />
she was dreadfully sorry.<br />
She rolled over on the grass<br />
with all her legs in the air;<br />
and later on, when she saw<br />
the bandage on my hand,<br />
she put herself in the corner,<br />
the darkest corner of<br />
the bedroom, and stayed<br />
there for the rest of the<br />
afternoon. One can’t do<br />
more than that.<br />
The beauty of that deftly<br />
inclusive "one" is very moving.<br />
Just as it is moving<br />
when elsewhere Ackerley<br />
correctly pauses, and notes:<br />
"She too has her feelings,<br />
and now that I have put the<br />
human point of view it is<br />
proper to attend to hers"<br />
And the beauty of this<br />
film by the Fierlingers is<br />
that Ackerley’s respect for<br />
the otherness of dogs, their<br />
lurid overlap with and total<br />
difference from humans,<br />
has been given a visual<br />
form. The humans in this<br />
movie are dilapidated<br />
abbreviations. Tulip is a<br />
detailed flowing sketchiness<br />
— a process of intricate<br />
movements. In this movie,<br />
the humans are stripped of<br />
all their fuss, while the<br />
dogs are just themselves: a<br />
shimmer. — The Guardian<br />
general hospitals, and this<br />
number seems to be increasing.<br />
This means many people<br />
don’t get access to specialist<br />
spinal rehabilitation<br />
or peer support. Back Up frequently<br />
sends trainers into<br />
general hospitals to offer<br />
additional support. And for<br />
some, a three-hour session<br />
with us is the only wheelchair-skills-trainingexperience<br />
they have. For those<br />
who miss out on even this,<br />
there can be profound implications<br />
for the rest of their<br />
lives, ones that may prevent<br />
them from realising their<br />
full potential.<br />
The youngest person I<br />
have taught is Kitty, who is<br />
eight years old. She contracted<br />
transverse myelitis<br />
(a condition that affects the<br />
spinal cord) a year ago.<br />
Kitty’s father, Stewart<br />
Catherine, says the programme<br />
is really important<br />
to her: "After such a hard<br />
year, she responds really<br />
well to anything that’s fun.<br />
She’s always been very<br />
active and competitive.<br />
And because the [Back Up]<br />
instructors are all wheelchair<br />
users themselves, Kitty<br />
is less inhibited about asking<br />
questions. There is a chance<br />
that Kitty’s condition could<br />
improve, but in the meantime<br />
it’s important to make<br />
the most of today." I have<br />
learned a lot in my six years<br />
using a wheelchair. If I knew<br />
back at the start what would<br />
become second nature in<br />
time, I would have felt a lot<br />
less anxious. —The Guardian