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Kolkata Saturday May 7, 2011<br />

www.thebengalpost.com MISCELLANY 9<br />

Beauty of emotions captured for all<br />

Adam Thirlwell<br />

There are many methods<br />

for turning your life into<br />

a piece of performance art,<br />

and one of them is to get a<br />

dog. A dog is a wild experiment.<br />

Or so you can argue<br />

by observing the example of<br />

JR Ackerley, who was a<br />

friend of Forster and Woolf,<br />

editor of the Listener, determined<br />

prowler for boys and<br />

the owner, for 15 of her<br />

161/2 years, of a German<br />

shepherd called Queenie,<br />

whom he described, under<br />

a transformed name, in his<br />

memoir My Dog Tulip — first<br />

published in 1965, two<br />

years before he died aged 71<br />

— which has now been<br />

made into a gorgeous animated<br />

film by Paul and<br />

Sandra Fierlinger.<br />

This book is the greatest<br />

of dog books, and now this<br />

film is the greatest of dog<br />

films — to invent two<br />

unnecessary genres — but<br />

before the unprepared<br />

reader imagines an account<br />

of cuteness, it’s necessary to<br />

state an opposite truth: the<br />

basic subjects of My Dog<br />

Tulip are pissing, shitting<br />

and reproducing.<br />

And so one way of admiring<br />

My Dog Tulip is to see it<br />

as a manic critique of the<br />

usual norms of representation.<br />

In Ulysses, James Joyce<br />

recorded Bloom on the lavatory,<br />

"calm above his own<br />

rising smell"; or in his hallucinations<br />

offering his wife’s<br />

lover a helpful tub of<br />

Vaseline. But then there is<br />

Ackerley. One long chapter<br />

of his short book is correctly<br />

called "Liquids and Solids". In<br />

another episode, trying to<br />

encourage Tulip to have sex,<br />

he "smeared Tulip lavishly<br />

with vaseline".<br />

The experimental, radical<br />

forms of the novel have<br />

often processed with dogs<br />

as their motif. Like Celine in<br />

From Castle to Castle —<br />

praising the gracious, private<br />

manner in which his<br />

dog died — "the trouble<br />

with men’s death throes is<br />

all the fuss " Or I remember<br />

the interview David Foster<br />

Wallace gave to Dave Eggers<br />

in the Believer in 2003: "If<br />

you live by yourself and<br />

have dogs, things get<br />

strange. I know I’m not the<br />

only person who projects<br />

skewed parental neuroses<br />

on to his pets or companion-animals<br />

or whatever."<br />

It’s only correct, this rueful<br />

observation of the OuLiPian<br />

constrictions that a dog<br />

places on a life - but this<br />

parentless, I think, is only a<br />

Moulay Idriss opens to night tourism<br />

Stephanie Theobald<br />

Until 2005, non-Muslims<br />

were not permitted to<br />

stay overnight in Moulay<br />

Idriss. Guide books warned<br />

the tourists who dared to<br />

visit to be out of town by<br />

3pm. This is what Edith<br />

Wharton had to do in 1919<br />

when she visited the town,<br />

known as the holiest place<br />

in the country, to research<br />

her classic travel memoir In<br />

Morocco. Although there<br />

was nowhere for her to stay,<br />

she claimed she was the<br />

first foreigner to witness the<br />

town’s frenetic moussem -<br />

the music- and dancedrenched<br />

summer celebration<br />

considered by many<br />

Moroccans as an alternative<br />

to the Muslim pilgrimage to<br />

Mecca.<br />

Well, there are places to<br />

stay now, and an intriguing<br />

new restaurant run by Mike<br />

Richardson, former maitre<br />

d’ of the Wolseley and the<br />

Ivy who recently became<br />

the first foreigner to buy a<br />

property here. The redheaded<br />

pioneer moved to<br />

Fez, an hour east, five years<br />

ago to set up Cafe Clock<br />

(concept: crazy Moroccan<br />

souk meets Venice Beachstyle<br />

cafe, with camel burgers)<br />

and now intends to do<br />

the same thing in Moulay<br />

Idriss.<br />

"Foreigners are warmly<br />

welcomed now," he says,<br />

adding that Moulay Idriss’s<br />

reputation as an unwelcoming<br />

place wasn’t down to<br />

religious sensitivities alone.<br />

"From what I can gather," he<br />

says, "the myths come about<br />

because the place is so special.<br />

The Moroccans wanted<br />

to keep it a secret."<br />

His new restaurant, Dar<br />

Akrab (Scorpion House), is<br />

perched on one of two hills<br />

in this ancient town where<br />

Moulay Idriss el Akhbar,<br />

great-grandson of the<br />

prophet Muhammad and<br />

the man who brought Islam<br />

to Morocco 1,200 years ago,<br />

is buried. It has the exciting<br />

allure of a place not yet starstruck<br />

by the promises of<br />

tourism.<br />

Tour buses from Fez used<br />

to come no nearer than<br />

Volubilis, an eerily abandoned<br />

Roman city 20 minutes’<br />

walk from the town.<br />

There is still no regular public<br />

transport; the cheapest<br />

way to get here is in a<br />

shared "grand" taxi from Fez<br />

or Meknes. The climb to Dar<br />

Akrab is steep, but worth it<br />

for the incredible mountain<br />

views from the white minimalistterrace<br />

Once a no-go area, Morocco’s holiest town is starting to woo tourists<br />

as you eat your scrambled<br />

eggs with desert truffles, or<br />

your Moroccan barbecue,<br />

the house speciality. In a<br />

Moroccan barbecue the<br />

meat, usually lamb, is<br />

cooked Mechouia-style (a<br />

Berber as opposed to Arabic<br />

method) - outdoors over hot<br />

coals and basted with a<br />

herby, spicy marinade made<br />

of cumin, paprika and<br />

coriander.<br />

Even for the non-famous,<br />

Fez can feel claustrophobic<br />

after a couple of days, and<br />

the huge skies and dramatic<br />

views of Moulay Idriss are a<br />

tonic. Other attractions<br />

include ancient Roman hot<br />

springs, a 10-minute walk<br />

away in the peaceful hills,<br />

with two moderate-sized<br />

baths built into the foothills<br />

of Mount Zerhoune. You can<br />

swim here: the water smells<br />

of cumin and hot stone. (In<br />

the summer, Richardson<br />

says, it is "boy soup".) But<br />

even if you don’t take a dip,<br />

it’s worth the climb for the<br />

astonishing views. Looking<br />

down on the vast plains of<br />

Volubilis gives a<br />

real sense of<br />

being in<br />

Africa - as<br />

well as a<br />

My Dog Tulip by J R Ackerley has won several awards and is being lauded as the greatest dog film<br />

flash of what Roman Africa<br />

might have felt like.<br />

Thanks to Dar Akrab,<br />

Moulay Idriss is starting to<br />

wake up. Mike’s local friend,<br />

Fayssal, runs a new fiveroom<br />

guesthouse, Dar<br />

Zerhoune. It’s a modest<br />

wood-framed, tile-floored<br />

boutique hotel with classic<br />

keyhole-shaped doors, lots<br />

of romantic balconies and a<br />

rare baraka or carving to<br />

Muhammad in the central<br />

courtyard denoting that<br />

part of the house originally<br />

came from Mecca.<br />

The conservatory-style<br />

dining room on the cushioned<br />

roof terrace has<br />

(again) incredible mountain<br />

views. Breakfasts come with<br />

local honey and couscous<br />

bread dipped in olive oil<br />

from a grove just down the<br />

road.<br />

Food and friendliness are<br />

the biggest attractions of<br />

Dar Zerhoune. The only<br />

other real competitor is La<br />

Colombe Blanche (maisondhote-zerhoune.ma),opposite<br />

Moulay Idriss’s tomb. It<br />

has eight bedrooms in classic<br />

mis-matched Moroccan<br />

style (inexplicably, most of<br />

the furniture is covered<br />

with doilies).<br />

Fayssal’s dad, Mustapha,<br />

is a great host, too.<br />

Once a week, he offers<br />

guests the option of his tangia,<br />

the Moroccan hotpot<br />

famously only cooked by<br />

men. It’s a very male dish in<br />

that there’s lots of meat and<br />

not much work. You take a<br />

big ceramic urn to the<br />

butcher, get him to fill it up<br />

with spiced meat and then<br />

you take it down to the<br />

hammam. You leave it in the<br />

hammam fire, go off and<br />

have a good steam, and<br />

when you’re ready, you take<br />

it home and announce, "Hey<br />

honey, I made the dinner!"<br />

The big show-off moment<br />

comes when Mustapha<br />

empties the urn in front of<br />

me. The richness of the<br />

sauce and the tenderness of<br />

the meat momentarily<br />

shock me to silence as the<br />

inscrutable Fayssal and his<br />

jovial dad smile down at me.<br />

There seems to be a bit of<br />

an invasion of London<br />

maitre d’s in these parts:<br />

Mike has just named his former<br />

Wolseley colleague<br />

Robert Johnstone (also a former<br />

maitre d’s at the Ivy) as<br />

the manager of Dar Akrab.<br />

He’s also putting Muslimfriendly<br />

cocktails on the<br />

menu: "Alcohol-free but full<br />

of bright colours and glitz.<br />

We’re going to bring in a bit<br />

of glamour." — The Guardian<br />

small part of the strange<br />

lurid transference and mess<br />

that exists between dogs<br />

and humans. Really, the<br />

experiment is even crazier.<br />

It might be common to<br />

observe that dogs and their<br />

owners begin to resemble<br />

each other - but I think this<br />

is the mind’s illusion, a convenient<br />

way of observing<br />

that each dog, instead,<br />

exists in relation to its<br />

owner’s unconscious. And<br />

an unconscious is a complicated<br />

thing. Sometimes, the<br />

wildness of a human<br />

requires a corresponding<br />

neatness in the dog; and<br />

sometimes the neatness of a<br />

human requires a corresponding<br />

wildness.<br />

But then, in the end,<br />

there’s no such thing as an<br />

unwild dog.<br />

Consider the following<br />

moment in Ackerley’s<br />

description of Tulip. He<br />

takes Tulip to a series of<br />

vets, with all of whom she is<br />

in a manic flurry. She can<br />

only be sadly compared, say,<br />

to an obedient spaniel he<br />

can observe "standing quietly<br />

on a table with a thermometer<br />

sticking out of his<br />

bottom, like a cigarette".<br />

Finally, he discovers Miss<br />

Canvey. With Miss Canvey,<br />

Tulip is calm. And Ackerley -<br />

Tim Rushby-Smith<br />

The first time I got into a<br />

wheelchair I felt<br />

euphoric. After a month<br />

spent in bed, reflecting on all<br />

the things I would never do<br />

again - no more climbing or<br />

playing football - it was a joy<br />

just to be able to move again.<br />

Four weeks earlier my physically<br />

active lifestyle had<br />

come to a sudden stop when<br />

I fell from a tree, resulting in<br />

a spinal-cord injury which<br />

left me facing life with paraplegia.<br />

Yet, on my second day in<br />

the chair, I felt crushed<br />

again; as though I had just<br />

learned to ride a bike only to<br />

be told that I had to stay on<br />

the bike for the rest of my<br />

life. The restrictions of four<br />

wheels quickly became evident.<br />

I couldn’t move while<br />

holding anything, and it felt<br />

like everywhere I looked I<br />

saw stairs. The wheelchair<br />

suddenly represented everything<br />

I had lost. Then one<br />

afternoon I went along to a<br />

wheelchair-skills session at<br />

Stoke Mandeville hospital<br />

near London, which specialises<br />

in spinal injuries,<br />

organised by a charity called<br />

The Back Up Trust. Trainer<br />

David Ball had been injured<br />

for 15 years and was preparing<br />

for a fundraising push up<br />

Helvellyn, a 950-metre peak<br />

in the Lake District.<br />

He was relaxed and<br />

assured — but most inspiring<br />

was how he seemed at<br />

one with his wheelchair. As<br />

well as learning practical<br />

what else? — is distraught:<br />

Was it not even possible<br />

that, in the course of time,<br />

under these civilizing<br />

processes, she would<br />

become so tame, so characterless,<br />

so commonplace,<br />

that she might one day be<br />

found standing in a surgery<br />

alone with a thermometer<br />

in her bottom?<br />

Ackerley is in love with<br />

the dogginess of dogs -<br />

impervious to the artificial<br />

disgusts which humans call<br />

civilisation. For if kitsch is<br />

the negation of shit, then<br />

there are very few things<br />

less kitsch than a dog.<br />

Which is why, after<br />

Ackerley’s examination of<br />

liquids and solids, the main<br />

subject of My Dog Tulip is<br />

his attempt to offer Tulip a<br />

sex life. And there’s a way in<br />

which this search for sex is<br />

also Ackerley’s, so it’s possible<br />

to see this book as a<br />

great fantasia of the unconscious<br />

— but its real truth is<br />

more radical.<br />

This book is a study in the<br />

problem of otherness. This<br />

is its deeper critique, of the<br />

conventional art of representation<br />

— the fake<br />

Forsterian categories of flat<br />

and round character.<br />

Early on, Ackerley<br />

describes the one moment<br />

� Life in a wheel chair isn’t as limiting once you’ve learnt the moves<br />

Acquiring traits of<br />

a second nature<br />

skills, the session helped me<br />

to start rebuilding my ambitions.<br />

I would even get back<br />

to the great outdoors. The<br />

logistics might be challenging,<br />

but it was possible.<br />

Five years later, I am one<br />

of 28 Back Up wheelchairskills<br />

instructors, striving to<br />

offer the same confidence<br />

boost to others. We take the<br />

programme to all 13 spinal<br />

units in the UK.<br />

Naturally we cover the<br />

basics: pushing forwards,<br />

backwards and turning. But<br />

there are also more complex<br />

moves — pushing with one<br />

hand, negotiating ramps and<br />

kerbs, going down and even<br />

up stairs.<br />

Some skills, such as stairclimbing<br />

are only going to be<br />

possible for a few people<br />

(the technique requires the<br />

wheelchair user to go up<br />

backwards pulling on one<br />

wheel and a handrail) but<br />

we hope to inspire participants<br />

to rethink what the<br />

future might hold, at a time<br />

when many people can’t see<br />

beyond what they can’t do.<br />

Luckily for me, I was<br />

active before my accident so<br />

my arms regained their<br />

strength fairly easily after a<br />

month’s bedrest, but it’s<br />

more difficult for those who<br />

had a sedentary life before,<br />

as it takes time to build up<br />

the muscles, especially in<br />

the backs of the arms, that<br />

you need to manoeuvre easily<br />

in a wheelchair. It is estimated<br />

that 20% of people<br />

with spinal-cord injury<br />

undergo rehabilitation in<br />

when, by mistake, Tulip bit<br />

his hand.<br />

We all make mistakes and<br />

she was dreadfully sorry.<br />

She rolled over on the grass<br />

with all her legs in the air;<br />

and later on, when she saw<br />

the bandage on my hand,<br />

she put herself in the corner,<br />

the darkest corner of<br />

the bedroom, and stayed<br />

there for the rest of the<br />

afternoon. One can’t do<br />

more than that.<br />

The beauty of that deftly<br />

inclusive "one" is very moving.<br />

Just as it is moving<br />

when elsewhere Ackerley<br />

correctly pauses, and notes:<br />

"She too has her feelings,<br />

and now that I have put the<br />

human point of view it is<br />

proper to attend to hers"<br />

And the beauty of this<br />

film by the Fierlingers is<br />

that Ackerley’s respect for<br />

the otherness of dogs, their<br />

lurid overlap with and total<br />

difference from humans,<br />

has been given a visual<br />

form. The humans in this<br />

movie are dilapidated<br />

abbreviations. Tulip is a<br />

detailed flowing sketchiness<br />

— a process of intricate<br />

movements. In this movie,<br />

the humans are stripped of<br />

all their fuss, while the<br />

dogs are just themselves: a<br />

shimmer. — The Guardian<br />

general hospitals, and this<br />

number seems to be increasing.<br />

This means many people<br />

don’t get access to specialist<br />

spinal rehabilitation<br />

or peer support. Back Up frequently<br />

sends trainers into<br />

general hospitals to offer<br />

additional support. And for<br />

some, a three-hour session<br />

with us is the only wheelchair-skills-trainingexperience<br />

they have. For those<br />

who miss out on even this,<br />

there can be profound implications<br />

for the rest of their<br />

lives, ones that may prevent<br />

them from realising their<br />

full potential.<br />

The youngest person I<br />

have taught is Kitty, who is<br />

eight years old. She contracted<br />

transverse myelitis<br />

(a condition that affects the<br />

spinal cord) a year ago.<br />

Kitty’s father, Stewart<br />

Catherine, says the programme<br />

is really important<br />

to her: "After such a hard<br />

year, she responds really<br />

well to anything that’s fun.<br />

She’s always been very<br />

active and competitive.<br />

And because the [Back Up]<br />

instructors are all wheelchair<br />

users themselves, Kitty<br />

is less inhibited about asking<br />

questions. There is a chance<br />

that Kitty’s condition could<br />

improve, but in the meantime<br />

it’s important to make<br />

the most of today." I have<br />

learned a lot in my six years<br />

using a wheelchair. If I knew<br />

back at the start what would<br />

become second nature in<br />

time, I would have felt a lot<br />

less anxious. —The Guardian

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