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www.filipinonews.nz, New Zealand's only Filipino Community Newspaper for the last 23 years! email: filipinonews@xtra.co.nz; mob: 027 495 8477

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BANDAR SERI BEGA-<br />

WAN - You get that million-dollar<br />

feeling the<br />

moment you arrive in<br />

Bandar Seri Begawan<br />

(Bandar for short) -<br />

Brunei’s capital city. I<br />

would best describe my<br />

experience as being akin to<br />

entering Aladdin’s cave.<br />

This tiny nation, awash<br />

with its oil wealth, displays<br />

breathtaking opulence at<br />

every turn. It appears that<br />

no expense has been<br />

spared in constructing the<br />

Sultan’s grandiose palaces,<br />

its incredible<br />

mosques, the glamourous<br />

buildings, the flashy<br />

tourist attractions and also<br />

for tourists, an extravagant<br />

7-star hotel that<br />

should be on your<br />

travel bucket list.<br />

This oil rich sultanate,<br />

sandwiched<br />

between the East<br />

Malaysia states of<br />

Sabah and Sarawak,<br />

is accessible by either air<br />

or sea.<br />

There are no direct<br />

flights to this destination<br />

from New Zealand, so you<br />

need to fly on a couple of<br />

carriers and put up with<br />

some stops to get there.<br />

Some of the carriers flying<br />

directly to the state include<br />

Malaysian Airlines,<br />

Singapore Airlines and<br />

Philippine Airlines.<br />

Once neglected by the<br />

travel agents, Brunei<br />

gained ground as a<br />

tourist destination once<br />

the state-owned Royal<br />

Brunei Airlines (RBA)<br />

started operations in<br />

1974. Over the years,<br />

flight capacity to and<br />

hotel accommodation in<br />

this destination were<br />

boosted as tourism was<br />

actively promoted by<br />

Brunei Tourism and<br />

RBA.<br />

Today Brunei is an<br />

attractive stopover and<br />

tourists will find their visit<br />

to this land of plenty richly<br />

rewarding. There is so<br />

much to take in during<br />

your visit - the natural<br />

bounty, the modern<br />

delights, the history, the<br />

culture and of course, the<br />

cuisine. It is also good to<br />

know that 90% of the population<br />

is fully vaxxed.<br />

There is a wide range of<br />

accommodation available<br />

in Bandar, but I wouldn’t<br />

go past the 7-star Empire<br />

Hotel in Jerudong which<br />

overlooks the glittering<br />

South China Sea.<br />

One of the hotel executives<br />

fondly describes this<br />

tropical retreat as a ‘little<br />

palace’. How true. You will<br />

be mesmerized by its<br />

grandeur - the juxtaposition<br />

of old-world charm<br />

and elegance with modern<br />

gold fixtures everywhere,<br />

spacious and exquisitely<br />

designed guest rooms, private<br />

beaches, a championship<br />

golf course, five<br />

pools, six restaurants and<br />

even a cinema. I was not<br />

surprised to hear that it<br />

took 6 years to build this<br />

tropical retreat.<br />

Here's a travel tip. Note<br />

that entertainment, on the<br />

scale that tourists are<br />

accustomed to in most<br />

Asian tourist hot spots, is<br />

practically non-existent<br />

here.<br />

In this strictly Islamic<br />

state there are no nightclubs,<br />

the sale of alcohol is<br />

not encouraged and there<br />

is a clamp-down on gambling<br />

and prostitution.<br />

Some would call it a ghost<br />

town after dark.<br />

So, what is there to do<br />

once you get there? Lots of<br />

exciting things, actually.<br />

My first stop was the<br />

very source of Brunei’s<br />

wealth - the oil towns of<br />

Seria and Kuala Belait.<br />

They almost resemble<br />

Texan oil towns with their<br />

huge and impressive oil<br />

and gas work complexes.<br />

The trunk road from<br />

Bandar to these towns is 78<br />

km long and is Brunei’s<br />

only highway.<br />

Nearly everyone of<br />

Brunei’s population of<br />

500,000 is either employed<br />

by Brunei Shell or associated<br />

with the oil business<br />

in some way.<br />

For the moment, revenue<br />

(above:) The luxurious Empire Hotel. (right:) Kampong Ayer<br />

For the adventurous there<br />

are the nature reserves.<br />

The Quaint<br />

Sultanate<br />

from the gushing crude oil<br />

and gas enables the people<br />

there to live in relative<br />

prosperity. The richest little<br />

kingdom in the region,<br />

it enjoys one of the highest<br />

living standards in Asia<br />

and is gearing up to<br />

achieve a per capita<br />

income within the top 10<br />

countries in the world.<br />

It is good to know that<br />

there is no income tax in<br />

Brunei and education and<br />

medical care are free.<br />

C I T Y T O U R :<br />

Bandar still retains its<br />

small-town charm, as towering<br />

skyscrapers have yet<br />

to take over the town. I<br />

drove around the Istana<br />

Nurul Iman (the royal<br />

palace), the golden Sultan<br />

Omar Ali Saifuddien<br />

Mosque (which is among<br />

the largest mosques in<br />

Southeast Asia) and the<br />

even grander Kairong<br />

Mosque, the largest in<br />

Brunei.<br />

A visit to one of these<br />

grandiose mosques is an<br />

eye-opener with their marble<br />

minarets, gold domes,<br />

the mixture of Malay and<br />

Mughal elements and<br />

Saudi Arabian carpets covering<br />

the floors as British<br />

chandeliers hang from the<br />

ceilings.<br />

Two other city attractions<br />

worth visiting are the<br />

Royal Regalia Museum<br />

and the 1 Billion Dollar<br />

Jerudong Theme Park.<br />

TOUR 1:<br />

A not-to-be-missed slice<br />

of life attraction is<br />

Kampong Ayer (nicknamed<br />

the Venice of the<br />

East) - the largest water<br />

village in the world.<br />

This is where 50,000<br />

Bruneians, or a quarter of<br />

the population of the city,<br />

live in houses perched on<br />

stilts. It is the home of fishermen,<br />

silver craftsmen<br />

and locals who find living<br />

on the river much cooler.<br />

TOUR 2:<br />

The rainforest is just 3-5<br />

km from the city. For the<br />

adventurous there are the<br />

nature reserves, caves and<br />

a waterfall to explore. If<br />

time permits travel by<br />

longboat to Temburong<br />

National Park, 45 minutes<br />

away, for a close-up view<br />

of the jungle. You might<br />

even glimpse some of the<br />

abundant native species<br />

that have survived here.<br />

If you are in a hurry then<br />

sign up for the Mangrove<br />

and River Safari - this is an<br />

By Mel Fernandez<br />

www.travelgalore.nz<br />

exciting speed-boat trip to<br />

the ‘Everglades country’<br />

up the Brunei River.<br />

TOUR 3:<br />

The immensity of the<br />

Borneo jungle becomes<br />

apparent when you visit<br />

the Iban longhouse at<br />

Temburong. The Ibans are<br />

very hospitable people and<br />

they go to great lengths to<br />

make you feel at home.<br />

Their community life and<br />

primitive hunting are truly<br />

fascinating.<br />

If you have the time,<br />

travel further to visit the<br />

Limbang longhouses inside<br />

Sarawak. Travel documents<br />

are necessary for<br />

this journey.<br />

FOOD TOUR:<br />

It is no surprise that<br />

there is a thriving restaurant<br />

scene in town. Highly<br />

recommended eateries are<br />

the Aminah Arif Restaurant<br />

and the Rizquan Café,<br />

which offer the superb<br />

local favourite ‘nasi katok’<br />

- rice with chicken or beef<br />

and anchovies and a spicy<br />

sauce wrapped in banana<br />

leaves. Another version of<br />

this rice dish is the Loklo<br />

Nasi Campur at Westpark<br />

Corner.<br />

Other must try dishes<br />

are soto (liver and intestine<br />

noodle soup), grilled<br />

clams, satay, pulut panga<br />

(sticky rice) and do try the<br />

national dish of Brunei -<br />

ambuyat – sago palm jelly.<br />

Preferring the street<br />

food experience, I tried a<br />

variety of popular fare at<br />

the Pasir Gadong Night<br />

Market.<br />

To wrap up I’d say that<br />

Brunei is a great travel<br />

experience, because it is literally<br />

out of this world.<br />

Comparing it with my<br />

Ambuyat - the national dish<br />

of Brunei.<br />

sojourns around bustling<br />

South East Asia, I found<br />

that the main difference in<br />

the quaint sultanate is that<br />

it is not swamped by<br />

tourists and it offers a<br />

relaxing, slower pace of<br />

life. A great place to<br />

recharge.<br />

Selamat datang! (welcome).<br />

Mel Fernandez travelled to<br />

Brunei from Singapore courtesy<br />

of Brunei Airlines.

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