Madeira and the Desertas Islands

Madeira and the Desertas Islands
21 – 26 July 2011
Introduction
This birding trip was designed to connect with the bird and butterfly endemics of Madeira and
with the seabirds around the island. Three excursions were built into this trip, booked well in
advance. On 22 July (initially July 21 st , but the weather was too bad) we had two trips with
Madeira Wind Birds: a short pelagic off Caniçal and an evening trip to the breeding area of
Zino's Petrels at Pico do Arieiro, one the highest peaks of Madeira.
On July 23 rd we left Porto Funchal for an unforgettable 1,5 days trip to the Desertas islands
with marine birds and mammals en route and an overnight stay in a petrel colony on Deserta
Grande.
Madeira, famous for its abundance of colourful flowers, is situated in the middle of the North
Atlantic Ocean, 630 km west of the Moroccan coast and 900 km from Portugal. Madeira, 57
km long by about 22 km wide, is a very green island and has a dramatic landscape with
forested gorges, a couple of mountains which range up to 1800m and Europe's highest steep
coast. The Gulf Stream provides for a wonderful spring-like climate all year around, and the
mountains combined with wind and clouds ensure that the abundant vegetation doesn't wither.
We visited the island in July; a good month for seabirds, although too early for Great
Shearwater. During our stay the weather on Madeira was cooler than expected with clouds
covering (parts of ) the island almost every day. The weather up in the mountains was often
misty and rainy, which affected our itinerary; we used sunny days for butterflies and cloudy
days for birds. Fortunately, a low bird diversity on Madeira meant that we could still find the
time for searches for all the island’s endemic butterfly species.
I saw all the birds we set out for: Trocaz Pigeon and Madeira Firecrest were found in the
Laurel forest, Zino’s Petrels were guaranteed at Pico do Arieiro, Desertas and Bulwer’s Petrel
were seen at sea, Madeiran Storm Petrel was easy at night at Deserta Grande and a Whitefaced
Storm Petrel was a welcome bonus while sailing back to Madeira from the Desertas.
There are several interesting endemic races to be found; we were most interested in Madeiran
Chaffinch and Madeira Barn Owl. The finches were common in forested areas and the owls
showed really well on the harbour walls in Funchal.
We caught up with all three endemic butterflies of Madeira (Madeira Brimstone, Madeira
Speckled Wood and Madeira Grayling) in one spot: the allotment gardens near the office
building of Parque Ecologico do Funchal.
Hiele and I stayed in an apartment in Funchal with easy
access on good roads to the north (Ribeiro Frio and Pico do
Arieiro), east (Caniçal) and west (to Porto Moniz takes 45
minutes). We had six days and that was enough time to see all
the species, although we talked about how much we would
have liked one more day for taking some more pictures and
for another sea watch at Porto Moniz.
Desertas Petrel, Desertas, H. Lootsma
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Itinerary
21 July
Ponta da Cruz, Ribeiro Frio.
We arrived at stormy Madeira around midnight after a shaky transfer flight from Lisbon,
which was followed by an eventful night and a substantial breakfast. Early in the morning we
saw our first seabirds and butterflies at Ponta da Cruz, Funchal, when Catarina from Madeira
Wind Birds called us to tell us that rough weather caused a cancellation of both the
afternoon’s pelagic off Caniçal and the evening’s Zino’s Petrel tour. Both trips were
rescheduled for the day after, so we then decided to do the forest endemics first.
Sub-tropical laurel forest still covers extensive parts of the north-facing slopes and the easiest
way for us to connect with the birds and butterflies of the Laurisilva was a visit to Ribeiro
Frio. At Ribeiro Frio the system of levada paths allows birders to explore the green mountains
with relative ease in search of the birds native to the laurel forest. Trocaz Pigeon had us
waiting for 30 minutes at the Balcões watch point, but Madeira Firecrest and Madeiran
Chaffinch were very easy. Other species represented by local races such as Blackcap, Grey
Wagtail and Blackbird were also very common.
The forest at Ribeiro Frio was also good for the endemic Madeiran Speckled Wood, although
separating them from Speckled Wood proved difficult on our first day.
From Ribeiro Frio we then drove about 7 km towards Faial and turned left on a road to Fajãda
Nogueira just before an old stone bridge over a river valley. We parked the car here and found
a perched Trocaz Pigeon. Walking this road for another mile did not produce more pigeons,
so we decided it was time to get back to Funchal.
Madeiran Chaffinch, Ribeiro Frio, H. Lootsma
22 July peninsula
Ponta da Cruz, peninsula Ponta de São Lourenço, pelagic off Caniçal, Pico do Arieiro
An early sea watch at Ponta da Cruz was nice with two adult Roseate Terns, nine Bulwer’s
Petrels and two pterodromas, most probably Desertas Petrels. Opposite our seafront watch
point we had an excellent breakfast outside, under a blue sky.
Mid morning we left for Caniçal and the area around the Marina Quinto do Lorde, from where
the 2,5 hour pelagic with Madeira Wind Birds would depart. In the marina we found a single
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Rock Sparrow and several genuine looking Rock Doves whilst a little further along the coast
between Caniçal and the peninsula Ponta de São Lourenço Berthelot’s Pipit, Atlantic Canary
and Long-tailed Blue were common. Although overcast skies pushed away the sunshine, the
sea was calm and at 2 pm the Oceanodroma was ready to take us to the Atlantic Ocean off
Caniçal. Highlights were two Desertas Petrels up close in big Cory’s Shearwater flocks and
an approachable Great Skua. We came pretty close to at least 30 Atlantic Spotted Dophins,
while Hugo our guide, told us how to identify several species of dolphin. From the marina we
could see the mountains covered in fog, but the Madeira Wind Birds team assured us the
Zino’s Petrel Night Expedition was still on, so we drove back to Funchal for dinner.
At 21.00 that evening we were picked up at our hotel by Madeira Wind Birds and driven up
the misty winding roads to the summit car park at Pico do Arieiro. Here we were given
headlamps and guided onto a narrow path up the mountain. Twenty drizzly minutes and a
steep walk later we were in the spot where Zino’s Petrels breed on the sheer rock faces. The
path and scenery are spectacular here, but there are steep drop offs (although railings are
present), so this outing is not suitable for someone like me who suffers from vertigo.
Fortunately the fog was so thick I couldn’t see anything, only the next person’s headlamp
shining on the ground before me. We were shown a place to sit down and waited for forty
cold minutes before the first eerie cries were heard. Over the next hour or so we were treated
to the sounds and silhouettes of these enigmatic birds as they returned to their breeding ledges
in pitch darkness. Hugo poured us some hot tea, while we were listening to these very rare
seabirds. It was quite an experience. On our way back Hugo and Catarina helped us with
some information about sites for butterflies and back at our apartment we packed our bags for
our next trip. Tomorrow we will sail to the Desertas Islands.
23 July
Desertas Islands tour
The Desertas Islands lie visibly close to the south-east coast of Madeira and consist of three
islands; Deserta Grande, Chão and Bugio. It is a designated nature reserve and divided into
two protected zones of which the southern half of Deserta Grande and Bugio are strictly
forbidden to visitors even by boat. You are only allowed to anchor in front of the research
station at Deserta Grande. This permanent research station has three wardens, who are the
only human inhabitants of the islands today. It was the highlight of our trip, this visit to
Deserta Grande, with the rare privilege of spending the night in a petrel colony, an
unforgettable experience.
At 10.00 we left Funchal harbour with the Ventura do Mar and in a short briefing we heard
we were really lucky to be out at sea now after weeks of rough weather.
From our beautiful sailing boat we saw the first of many Cory’s Shearwaters and Bulwer’s
Petrels and we enjoyed Desertas Petrels and Pilot Whales right in front of the boat.
As we approached Deserta Grande we realised the 400m high bare brown cliffs really are an
incredible site, as are the steep cliffs of Bugio, where Desertas Petrels breed.
Midway along the south-western shore of Deserta Grande there is a small area of relatively
flat land, which serves as both the only safe landing point under vertical cliffs and also forms
a protected natural harbour. Here an inflatable boat was launched from the Ventura taking
visitors and equipment ashore.
While putting out tents up one of the other Ventura birders (there were seven of us, three
British birders, a Dutch couple and Hiele and I) discovered a Bonelli’s Warbler, which
performed really well in the shrubs in front of the research station.
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After a short walk on the nature trail near the research station we re-boarded the Ventura at
18.00 for a chumming session. And although there were hardly any birds attracted to the small
amount of chum, seabirds were plentiful. Hundreds of Cory’s Shearwaters, 50+ Bulwer’s
Petrels and at least15(!) Desertas Petrels. We saw two or three that might have been Zino’s,
but where Hugo from Madeira Wind Birds claims he is able to distinguish Zino’s from
Deserta Petrels at sea, no one from the Ventura do Mar team was confident enough to do so.
Our first (distant) Manx Shearwater was seen when we were slowly making our way back to
Deserta Grande’s natural harbour.
It was already dark when we returned to Deserta Grande, where a delicious meal of fresh tuna
salad, spicy barbecued meat, beer and wine was thoroughly enjoyed in good company. The
first Bulwer’s Petrels were heard with their dog-like barking and sadly the first one hit the
roof of a wooden fence.
Deserta Grande now came alive with the howling calls of Cory’s Shearwaters and it was time
for the seabird party to really begin! Suddenly the first Madeiran Storm-petrels were heard
with their squeaky calls, their numbers growing as the night progressed. Seabird numbers
built up making all birders walking around the research station seeing and hearing seabirds
arriving to their nests.
By now numerous Bulwer’s Petrels and Cory’s Shearwaters are flying past. Some Cory’s fly
so close that their wings almost slap you and Bulwer’s Petrel thud clumsily ashore. A walk
around the short nature trail reveals numerous Cory’s Shearwaters and Bulwer’s Petrels
sitting beside nest holes between boulders and on one occasion Hiele and a Bulwer’s Petrel
have a painful rendezvous when the bird flies right onto his shoulder.
After midnight the number of flying and calling birds had clearly reduced and seven birders
crawled into their warm sleeping bags in a tent that was just a little too small…
Cory’s Shearwater, off Caniçal, H. Lootsma Deserta Grande, J. Westra
24 July
Desertas Islands tour, return trip to Funchal harbour
The next morning the seabirds had left the island and Deserta Grande was once again a very
peaceful place. We were accompanied by a few Common Terns, Yellow-legged Gulls, a
Kestrel, Berthelot’s Pipits and several Atlantic Canaries while having breakfast.
After breakfast we left the island for the return trip, scheduled to arrive on Madeira by 2pm.
The 3½-hour return trip provided new opportunities to look for any species we didn’t manage
to see the day before. The one bird I hoped to see appeared halfway the trip; a White-faced
Storm Petrel was discovered by our skipper Luis, who called the bird immediately. I was right
behind him and could connect to the bird right away. I saw it for only a few seconds, most of
the birders on board were not so lucky. This morning there were actually far less seabirds; I
counted two Desertas Petrels, twelve Bulwer’s Petrels, the usual Cories and a Great Skua.
Fifteen minutes from the harbour the sharp-eyed skipper (who helped us to at least forty
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Bottle-nosed Dolphins ten minutes earlier) spotted a distant blow and we headed directly
towards it to investigate. They were two large Bryde Whales, a fantastic sight.
At 3 pm we were back in Funchal harbour and thanked the Venturo do Mar crew for a superb
trip. We walked right into the Pizza Hut for a late lunch and a beer and talked about how well
things went so far. We then checked to harbour for Roseate Terns and the Yellow-crowned
Night Heron, but couldn’t find them. Little Egret, Black-headed Gull and a Lesser Blackbacked
Gull however, were present at a small beach along the boulevard. Late afternoon we
took our bags to our room and updated our diaries and lists.
We heard that Ponta do Garajau, located only a few kilometres north-east of Funchal,
is no longer a reliable site for Madeira Barn Owl (Madeira Storm Petrel is getting harder and
harder to find here too), but Hugo told us they are sometimes seen near the Funchal harbour
close to our apartment. We checked the harbour walls under Casino Park Hotel and were
treated to two Madeira Barn Owls, that showed really well around 10.30 pm.
25 July
Parque Ecologico do Funchal, Ribeiro Frio
We were not in a hurry this morning and under a cloudless sky we leisurely drove north
towards Monte. Driving further uphill we were once again faced with the storm and fire
damage as a result of the catastrophic storms in 2010. There are still large tracts of forest with
black trees. However, near the visitor centre of Parque Ecologico do Funchal the trees and
flowers were colourful as ever, making the park look like a big botanical garden with
geraniums, bougainvilleas, African Lilies, and a list of other flower species. We parked the
car at the visitor centre and saw our first Madeira Graylings. Inside the centre we asked where
to find Madeira Cleopatra. People were very kind, but they couldn’t really help us. One of the
staff told us they were seen near the centre before the fires, but had not been seen this year.
Walking back to our car we followed a road to the left (driving uphill, just before the visitor
centre) and found sunny allotment gardens filled with flowers. Butterflies were everywhere.
Madeira Graylings were very common, we saw hundreds of them. I tried to photograph one
of the many Clouded Yellows when a Madeira Brimstone came flying past. A second and a
third one appeared, settling shortly on African Lilies. A Monarch made a brief visit and the
Madeira Brimstones kept flying through the gardens, giving us a hard time trying to
photograph them.
Scanning the pictures on our cameras we discovered we had no decent pictures of Madeira
Speckled Wood and we expected them to be absent at PEF (Parque Ecologico do Funchal), as
the gardens are outside the laurel forest. We decided to go back to Ribeiro Frio for better
pictures, for we were sure to have seen them there. At Ribeiro Frio we drove right into low
grey clouds, so no butterflies showed. We went back to Parque Ecologico do Funchal once
more. Here the clouds lifted and we easily found half a dozen of Madeira Speckled Woods,
but the Madeira Brimstones were gone. Madeira Chaffinch and Madeira Firecrest were
common and today’s best new bird at Parque Ecologico do Funchal was a Red-legged
Partidge close to the road.
26 July
Porto Moniz, Ribeira de Janela, Prazeres, Lugar de Baixo, Ponta da Cruz
This was our last day and we planned to visit a wide variety of sites. At 8.05 we reached the
cloudy north-western corner of the island where the first stop was at Porto Moniz. We stood
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on a concrete wall just east of Mole Island next to a big parking lot and sea watched until
9.30, but we only saw lingering Cory’s Shearwaters.
We then drove uphill from Porto Moniz to the Ribeira de Janela area. It only took ten minutes
to the valley called Levada da Janela, just following the signs at the top road. At Rabaçal just
pass the car park where the levada starts. A road sign tells you its a dead end, but drive to the
end further down in the valley and from the turn around area you have a wide view into the
valley. It took surprisingly long before Hiele found the first (and only) Trocaz Pigeon in the
area. We obtained good scope views as it was perched in a tree. Butterflies were identified as
Madeira Speckled Woods and Long-tailed Blues.
Levada da Janela, J. Westra Long-tailed Blue, Levada da Janela, J. Westra
Early in the afternoon we went to Natural RM Floresta de Laurissilva at Chăo da Ribeira, but
there were no birds or butterflies to get exited about. Another sea watch at Porto Moniz from
13.15 to 14.45 (only) produced five Manx Shearwaters, three Bulwer’s Petrels and many
Cories.
We hoped to escape the grey weather by driving southwards towards Fonte do Bispo, but not
before driving downhill towards Prazeres and the coast, the skies opened up. A short search
for Linnet ended with only seeing Madeira Grayling.
At our next stop, the small reedy pond at Lugar de Baixo, we added Moorhen and Coot to our
lists and we enjoyed a very nice meal at the beach.
We ended our birding day with a final sea watch at Punta da Cruz from 19.30 to 20.00, where
the usual suspects occurred such as a handful of Bulwer’s Petrels. Late in the evening we flew
back to Amsterdam.
Species list.
Lifers in red.
1 Mallard, anas platyrhynchos; two at Lugar de Baixo.
2 Red-legged Partridge, alectoris rufa; one at Parque Ecologico do Funchal near Poiso.
Introduced.
3 Desertas Petrel, pterodroma deserta; recently split from Fea’s Petrel, pterodroma
feae. At least 24 seen in total! Some very close to the boat. Possibly Zino’s Petrel was
also involved during the trip to and from the Desertas, but they could not be identified
with certainty. Two were seen during a sea watch from Ponta da Cruz on July 22 nd ;
two during seatrip off Caniçal on July 22 nd ; three en route with the Venturo do Mar to
the Desertas on July 23 rd ; at least 15 during a small pelagic evening trip near Deserta
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Grande on July 23 rd ; and two late morning en route from Desertas back to Madeira on
July 24 th .
4 Zino’s Petrel, pterodroma madeira; possibly seen at sea, but easy during the
organized tour with Madeira Wind Birds. The Zino’s Petrel colony was visited on a
cold foggy night with a slight drizzle, high on Pico do Arieiro (1818 m), one of
Madeira’s highest peaks. From 10.30 pm we could listen to the eerie calls of several
Zino’s Petrel. One or two of the world’s rarest seabirds could be glimpsed when they
flew right over our heads on this very dark and cold night.
5 Bulwer’s Petrel, bulweria bulwerii; common and easily seen from Ponta da Cruz at
Funchal; we saw nine on July 22 nd . During the trip from Funchal to the Desertas on
July 23 rd we saw at least 80 (!) and during our small pelagic evening trip near Deserta
Grande that same day we saw at least 50. A walk on a nature trail around the warden’s
research station on Deserta Grande late afternoon produced barking sounds of birds
deep down in their nest holes under big rocks. Walking the same site at night revealed
many birds flying into their burrows, sitting beside nest holes and flittering between
the rocks. The return trip to Madeira gave another twelve Bulwer’s the next day. On
July 26 th we saw three at Porto Moniz and later that day (19.30 -20.00) five during a
short sea watch at Ponta da Cruz, Funchal.
6 Cory’s Shearwater, calonectris borealis; very common.
7 Manx Shearwater, puffinus puffinus; one seen from the Ventura do Mar near Deserta
Grande on July 23 rd and five during a sea watch at Porto Moniz on July 26 th .
8 White-faced Storm Petrel, pelagodroma marina; our Ventura do Mar skipper called
and pointed out this species riding a wave during the return trip from the Desertas to
Madeira. I was right behind him and could connect to the bird right away. I saw it for
only a few seconds, most of the birders on board were not so lucky.
9 Madeiran Storm Petrel, oceanodroma castro; it was pitch black before the first
Madeiran Storm Petrel was heard on Deserta Grande on July 23 rd . They sound like a
finger being squeaked across a wet glass, and they turned out to be very common.
With some effort you could just see the smaller silhouettes of birds heading for their
nests higher up on the steep cliffs.
10 Little Egret, egretta garzeta; one at Porto Funchal and one at Lugar de Baixo.
11 Buzzard, buteo buteo harteri; one near Caniçal.
12 Kestrel, falco tinnunculus canariensis; widespread in small numbers.
13 Moorhen, gallinula chloropus; two at Lugar de Baixo.
14 Coot, fulica atra; two at Lugar de Baixo.
15 Turnstone, arenaria interpres; at Ponta da Cruz.
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16 Great Skua, stercorarius skua; one on a short pelagic off Caniçal on July 22 nd and
one on the return trip from the Desertas on July 24 th .
17 Black-headed Gull, larus ridibundus; seen at Porto Funchal and Lugar de Baixo.
18 Lesser Black-backed Gull, larus fuscus; at least one at Porto Funchal.
19 Yellow-leged Gull, larus michahellis; very common.
20 Common Tern, sterna hirundo; common.
21 Roseate Tern, sterna dougalli; two adults at Ponta da Cruz during a sea watch.
22 Rock Dove, columba livia; common in the area between Caniçal and Ponta de Sao
Lourenço.
23 Trocaz Pigeon, columba trocaz; one seen flying deep down in the green valley at the
Balcões watch point at Ribeiro Frio. At Fajã da Nogueira somewhat further north
Hiele found one perched in a laurel tree. On July 26 th we drove the winding roads
beyond Porto Moniz where the road through Rabaçal ends at a parking in the Valley of
Ribeira da Janela. Here the pigeons were said to be easy, but it took over half an hour
before we found one perched in a big tree bordering cultivated cropland.
24 Collared Dove, streptopelia decaocto; one at Quinta do Lorde Marina, near Caniçal.
25 Madeira Barn Owl, tyto alba schmitzi; two were seen perfectly; flying, calling and
perched on the harbour walls under Casino Park Hotel in Funchal.
26 Plain Swift, apus unicolor; common.
27 Berthelot’s Pipit, anthus berthelotii madeirensis; only (common) in the area between
Caniçal and Ponta de Sao Lourenço and around the warden’s research station on
Deserta Grande.
28 Grey Wagtail, motacilla cinerea schmitzi; common.
29 Wren, trochlodytes trochlodytes; heard at Ribeiro Frio.
30 Robin, erithacus rubecula; locally common.
31 Blackbird, turdus merula cabrerae; locally common.
32 Blackcap, sylia atricapilla heineken; very common.
33 Bonelli’s Warbler, phylloscopus bonelli; one in the shrubs in front of the warden’s
research station at Deserta Grande on 23 and 24 July. A Madeiran or Desertas rarity?
34 Madeira Firecrest, regulus madeirensis; common in wooded areas.
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35 Rock Sparrow, petronia petronia madeirensis; one at Quinta do Lorde Marina, near
Caniçal. Rock Sparrow was said to be nesting there.
36 Madeiran Chaffinch, fringilla coelebs madeirensis; common in wooded areas.
37 Atlantic Canary serinus canaria; very common.
38 European Greenfich, cardeulis chloris; widespread.
39 European Goldfinch, cardeulis cardeulis parva; widespread.
40 Eurasian Siskin, cardeulis spinus; in mixed flocks at Parque Ecologico do Funchal.
Butterflies
Madeiran Speckled Wood, Parque Ecologico do Funchal (PEF), J. Westra
1 Small (Cabbage) White, pieris rapae; common.
2 Clouded Yellow, colias crocea; very common. Two white phase ‘helice‘ were seen.
3 Madeira Brimstone (Cleopatra), gonepteryx maderensis; at least three in allotment
gardens near the office building of Parque Ecologico do Funchal.
We observed three Madeira Brimstones (all males) for over an hour. They were
attracted to only one flower: African Lily, agapanthus praecox orientalis.
The butterflies were not seen on a subsequent visit.
4 Small Copper, lycaena phlaeas phlaeoides; widespread.
5 Lang’s Short-tailed Blue, leptotes pirithous; at Ponte da Cruz and along the harbour
walls at Porto Funchal.
6 Long-tailed Blue, lampides boeticus; very common in grassland between Caniçal and
Ponta de Sao Lourenço. Also seen at Parque Ecologico do Funchal and at Levada da
Janela.
7 Monarch, danaus plexippus; several seen in Funchal, even in the city centre. Also
seen at Lugar de Baixo and at Parque Ecologico do Funchal.
8 Painted Lady, vanessa cardui; at Parque Ecologico do Funchal.
9 Speckled Wood, pararge aegeria; common at Ribeiro Frio and PEa do Funchal.
10 Madeira Speckled Wood, pararge xiphia; at least five at (allotment gardens near the
office building of) Parque Ecologico do Funchal. Common at Ribeiro Frio and in the
Valley of Ribeira da Janela.
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11 Madeira Grayling, hipparchia maderensis; very common, hundreds, perhaps 1000+
at (allotment gardens near the office building of) Parque Ecologico do Funchal. Also
seen at Prazeres, en route from Porto Moniz to Funchal.
Madeira Grayling, PEF, J. Westra Madeira Brimstone on African Lily, PEF, H. Lootsma
Mammals
1 Atlantic Spotted Dolphin, stenella frontalis; 30 on a short pelagic off Caniçal on July
22 nd .
2 Bottle-nose Dolphin, tursiops truncates; 40 close to the boat on our way back from
the Desertas on July 24 th .
3 Short-finned Pilot Whale, globicephala macrorhynchus; 15 close to the boat on our
way to the Desertas Islands on July 23 rd .
4 Bryde Whale, balaenaoptera edeni; two off Madeira on our way back from the
Desertas on July 24 th .
5 Rabbit, oryctolagus cuniculus; common between Caniçal and Ponta de Sao Lourenço.
Reptiles and amphibians
Madeiran Wall Lizard, lacerta dugesii; very common.
Iberian Green Frog, rana perezi; introduced. Seen at Lugar de Baxio.
Useful links:
www.venturodomar.com
www.madeirawindbirds.com
http://madeira.seawatching.net/
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