holiday - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

HOLIDAY 

ULTIMATE 

ENTERTAINING 

GUIDE 

PHOTO GETTY IMAGES

3 7 

9 

This holiday season, bring family and 

friends together for refined foods in 

stylish settings. In Wine Enthusiast’s 

Ultimate Holiday Entertaining Guide, 

you’ll find festive food recipes from 

top chefs, wine pairing tips from the 

experts and cocktails made by today’s 

hottest mixologists, as well as tabletop-décor 

tricks and perfect playlists. 

All promise to simplify and elevate 

your holiday dinners throughout the 

season. Happy Holidays! 

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE 

HOLIDAY 

ULTIMATE 

ENTERTAINING 

GUIDE 

THANKSGIVING 

3 Mama’s Sweet Potato Soufflé / Slow Cooker Turkey 

4 Tabletop Décor / Playlist 

5 Sommelier Suggestions / Tips from a Top Chef 

6 Pumpkin Spice Margarita / How To: Make 

Apple-Cinnamon Syrup / Serve an Apértif 

HANUKKAH 

7 Really Good Brisket / Kosher Wine Picks 


CHRISTMAS 

9 Brasato Natalizio al Nipozzano 

(Red Wine Rib Roast) / Monte Bianco 


11 Coquito (Puerto Rican Egg Nog) 

Five Top Christmas Beers 

WINES & GIFTS 

12 Gift-Giving 101 / Top 15 Best Buys Under $15 

JAPANESE NEW YEAR 

13 Sweet Black Beans / Japanese Whisky 

Saké Recommendation 

NEW YEAR’S EVE 


15 Bella Ruffina / Sparkling Wines for Any Budget 

Deciphering Sparkling Wine Terms

THANKSGIVING 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

A GRACIOUS SOUTHERN THANKSGIVING 

“Thanksgiving is about celebrating the bounty of the land and feeding as many people 

as possible,” says Virginia Willis, chef and author of the cookbook Basic to Brilliant, Y’all! 

(Ten Speed Press, 2011), among others. For Willis, Thanksgiving means a table overflowing 

with casseroles, turkeys, giblet gravy and homemade relishes. Consider adopting these 

Southern-style elements for a blowout down-home meal. —LILLY KUWASHIMA 

MAMA’S SWEET POTATO SOUFFLÉ 

Recipe courtesy Virginia Willis, chef and author of Preheat an oven to 350˚F. 

Bon Appetit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories from Three 

Generations of Southern Cooking (Ten Speed Press, 

2008) 

Brush an ovenproof casserole with one tablespoon 

of the melted butter. Place the sweet potatoes on 

a baking sheet and roast until they’re very tender, 

4 sweet potatoes, scrubbed 

1 cup (2 sticks), plus 1 tablespoon 

unsalted butter, melted, divided 

about 1 hour. Cool to room temperature. Peel the 

potatoes and discard the skins. Place the potatoes 

in a large bowl and mash until smooth. 

½ cup granulated sugar 

Add ½ cup of the melted butter, the granulated 

2 large eggs, lightly beaten 

sugar, eggs, milk and vanilla to the potatoes. Stir to 

1 

⁄3 cup whole milk 

combine, and season with salt and pepper. Spoon 

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 

the mixture into the prepared casserole. 

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, 

to taste 

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 

1 cup all-purpose flour 

In a small bowl, combine the remaining ½ cup of 

melted butter, light brown sugar, flour and pecans. 

Stir until combined and sprinkle over the casserole. 

1 cup chopped pecans 

Bake the casserole until bubbly and heated 

through, about 25–30 minutes. Transfer it to a rack 

to cool slightly before serving. Serves 6–8. 

SLOW COOKER TURKEY 

Recipe adapted with permission from Basic to Brilliant, Season the turkey breast with salt and pepper. 

Y’all! 150 Refined Southern Recipes and Ways to Place the breast, skin side up, in a slow cooker. 

Dress Them Up for Company (Ten Speed Press, 2011), Pour the Madeira over it, and add the onion, 

by Virginia Willis thyme, garlic and honey. Seal it with the lid and 

cook on high heat, turning once, for 3–4 hours. 

1 boneless turkey breast, approximately 4–6 

pounds Place the turkey on a cutting board and cover with 

Coarse salt, to taste foil, allowing it to cool before slicing. Pour the 

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste broth formed at the bottom of the slow cooker into 

¼ cup Madeira a fat separator, or remove the grease with a spoon. 

1 onion, preferably Vidalia, sliced Strain the broth into a small saucepan and bring 

1 sprig thyme to a boil. Adjust the salt and pepper seasoning, if 

1 clove garlic necessary. 

1 tablespoon honey 

Slice the turkey and place pieces on serving plates. 

Dress with a spoonful of broth. Serves 8–10. 

3 

PHOTO BY KATE SEARS

THANKSGIVING 

TABLETOP DÉCOR 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

“I’m a minimalist about not having too much going on with your tabletop because you want 

your food to be the star,” says Leslie Bauer, owner of event design company Wine Country Party 

& Events, with her husband, Marshall Bauer. Based in Sonoma, California, the company arranges 

party rentals, events and weddings throughout Northern California. She shares Thanksgiving 

planning tips for being creative—and saving money at the same time. —RISA WYATT 

VINTAGE IS IN VOGUE pomegranates, persimmons, pumpkins 

“Utilize wood farm tables, either and gourds for the centerpiece. Pick just 

whitewashed or in oak, and mismatched one of those colors for your napkins and 

antique flatware—mixed pieces that have a muted ivory or tan tablecloth. 

you might have from relatives.” Combine 

those with little etched glasses or Venetian 

tumblers. It creates a shabby-chic look 

that’s simple but elegant. In addition, you 

can mix china patterns. “It’s fun looking 

for pieces at flea markets or consignment 

ARRANGE FLOWERS 

Hollow out pumpkins or gourds and use 

them as vases. If you’re hosting a casual 

dinner, use Mason jars for your flowers, 

with satin ribbons tied around the glass. 

stores.” Bauer adds, “It’s a beautiful way to 

get pieces with a little history.” 

CREATIVE PLACE CARDS 

Use beautiful autumn leaves as place cards, 

TWO TONED 

with the guest’s name written in silver or 

To create a more contemporary look, limit gold, to match the accents on the table. 

yourself to just two colors. Keep the plates 

mostly white; perhaps use round dishes. 

“Include something reflective, such as gold 

accents or silver flatware, to add pizzazz 

and bring the table to life.” 

OPT TO RENT 

If you’re hosting a large gathering, consider 

renting not just chairs and tables, but also 

dishes and glassware. “You don’t have to 

wash them,” explains Bauer. “You just put 

CENTERPIECE SIMPLICITY 

them back in the rack and send them away. 

Bauer loves bringing in the tones of 

autumnal fruits and vegetables, such as 

It makes cleaning up a breeze.” 

PLAYLIST 

“Midnight Train to Georgia,” Gladys Knight; “Amen,” Otis Redding; “Take Me Home, Country 

Roads,” Ray Charles; “Get Up Off That Thing,” James Brown; “Can’t Believe You Wanna Leave,” 

Little Richard; “Amazing Grace,” Cat Power. Get Wine Enthusiast’s Ultimate Holiday Entertaining 

Guide playlist on Spotify. 

4

THANKSGIVING 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

SOMMELIER SUGGESTIONS 

The turkey is roasting, the stuffing is simmering and the sweet potatoes are browning. Thanksgiving 

dinner is about to be served. But while you’re salivating over the scents coming from 

the kitchen, don’t forget the most important ingredient: the wine. Wine Enthusiast tapped 

top sommeliers from around the country to find out their favorite wine-and-turkey pairings. 

—MELANIE NAYER 

Allison Foote, former wine director at Rialto 

Restaurant + Bar, at The Charles Hotel in 

Cambridge, Massachusetts (rialto-restaurant.com) 

WINE RECOMMENDATION: Robert Sinskey’s 

2010 Abraxas Vin de Terroir Scintilla Sonoma Vineyard 

from Carneros 

PAIRS WITH: “This Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and 

Gewürztraminer blend is perfect for not only 

roasted turkey, stuffing and harvest vegetables, 

but its floral coåmponent also works well with soft 

cheeses and dried fruits.” 

Jeff Andrus, sommelier at Charlie Palmer at 

The Joule in Dallas (charliepalmer.com) 

WINE RECOMMENDATION: Robert Foley Vineyards’s 

2009 Charbono from Napa Valley 

PAIRS WITH: “This wine never fails to delight 

and intrigue. Its huge, dark candied-berry aromas, 

dense textures and spicy character delight serious 

red wine drinkers, while its light, silky tannins 

enamor the less frequent red wine drinkers. It pairs 

with items containing sweet components, like cranberry 

sauce, candied yams and sweet glazed ham.” 

TIPS FROM A TOP CHEF 

“Prepare as much as you can 

in advance. You can make the 

[turkey] brine a week ahead of 

time and stick it in the garage to 

chill. Pie crusts can be prepared 

two weeks ahead and frozen. 

Make your base gravy the day 

before, then add the deglaze 

from the turkey roasting pan 

while the bird is resting.” 

“Bring the unstuffed turkey 

out of the refrigerator for 90 

minutes to 2 hours before 

roasting. It will cook more evenly 

and quickly.” 

“Some people pair wines with 

similarly flavored foods, but to 

me, that’s like pairing cheese 

with cheese. I’m looking for 

texture. With rich foods, I like 

restrained wines, which tend to 

Sean Meyer, sommelier at Destination Cellars 

in Chantilly, Virginia (destinationcellars.com) 

WINE RECOMMENDATION: H. Billiot’s NV Brut 

Rosé Champagne 

PAIRS WITH: “The richness of the flavor and the 

fine bubbles make it delightful as an apéritif and 

for most of what graces the Thanksgiving table. 

Turkey? Check. Cranberries? Sure! Wild Mushroom 

Stuffing? Yes, Please!” 

Ian Cauble, wine director and lead sommelier 

at The Ritz-Carlton in Half Moon Bay, California 

(ritzcarlton.com) 

WINE RECOMMENDATION: Marcel Lapierre’s 

2009 Morgon Beaujolais Cru 

PAIRS WITH: “This wine exhibits flavors of tart red 

cherry, fresh cranberry, dried roses, crushed rocks 

and dried herbs, which fit perfectly with roasted 

vegetables. The body of cru Beaujolais has lighter 

structure and balanced fruit that allows the flavors 

of the vegetables to be experienced.” 

Michael Chiarello, executive chef and owner of Bottega in Yountville, California, is an Emmy- 

winning Food Network host and finalist on Top Chef Masters, the tastemaker behind the Napa- 

Style retail company and a vintner. His winery, Chiarello Family Vineyards, has produced organic 

wines in the St. Helena appellation since 1998. These are his top tips for hosting Thanksgiving 

at home: 

be thinner and have a stronger 

acid profile. Because the bird 

doesn’t have tons of flavor, you 

should pair wines with flavors 

surrounding the turkey, like 

stuffing. Zinfandel is generally 

a no-brainer for Thanksgiving. 

It’s affordable and gives a lot of 

flavor for the dollar. Cabernet 

Sauvignon can also enhance 

dishes.” —RISA WYATT 

5

THANKSGIVING 

PUMPKIN SPICE MARGARITA 

This classic cocktail, created by Danielle Griffin, former mixologist at La Hacienda in 

Scottsdale, Arizona, gets a seasonal twist with the addition of pumpkin purée simple syrup. 

2 ounces Riazul Añejo Tequila 

1½ ounces fresh lemon juice 

½ ounce pumpkin purée simple syrup (recipe below) 

Agave nectar, for rim 

¼ cup crushed animal crackers, for rim 

Pumpkin floret, for garnish 

Cinnamon stick, for garnish 

In a shaker filled with ice, combine the Tequila, lemon juice and pumpkin purée simple 

syrup. Shake until mixed well. 

Rim a cocktail glass by dipping it into agave nectar followed by crushed animal crackers. 

Strain the margarita into the cocktail glass and garnish with a pumpkin floret and 

cinnamon stick. 

PUMPKIN PURÉE SIMPLE SYRUP 

1 (15-ounce) can of pumpkin purée 

¾ cup sugar 

2 cups water 

1 teaspoon pumpkin spice 

In a medium saucepan, combine the pumpkin, sugar, water and spice over medium-low 

heat. Stir constantly for 20–30 minutes, or until the mixture is smooth and the consistency 

of a thin smoothie. Let cool before using. The syrup will keep for one week, covered 

and refrigerated. 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

HOW TO: 

MAKE APPLE-CINNAMON SYRUP 

Use this spiced syrup to make your cocktails more festive this holiday season. 

SERVE AN APÉRITIF 

Combine 1 cup of water, 1 cup of sugar, ½ cup of coarsely 

chopped dehydrated apple chips and ½ cinnamon stick in a 

saucepan. Bring all of the ingredients to a boil while stirring 

continuously. 

Lower the heat and simmer until reduced. To test the syrup’s 

consistency, dip a spoon into the mixture; it should coat the 

spoon. 

Remove the pan from the flame, and let it cool to room 

temperature. Then strain the syrup into a bottle. Yielding 

about 1 cup, the syrup can be stored for roughly 45 days in a 

refrigerator. 

COUNTRY STORE 

This variation of an old fashioned, created by Lara Creasy, beverage director of JCT. Kitchen & Bar in Atlanta, 

is a perfect way to whet the appetite before a feast. 

½ ounce maple syrup 

4 dashes Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel 

Aged Bitters 

1 brandied cherry 

2 orange slices 

2 ounces Laird’s Applejack Brandy 

Muddle the maple syrup, bitters, brandied cherry 

and one orange slice in an Old-Fashioned glass. 

Add the brandy and stir with a bar spoon until the 

maple syrup dissolves. Add ice and stir again until 

combined. Garnish with remaining orange slice. 

6 

PHOTO BY JON VAN GORDER/ ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRIAN CLARK

HANUKKAH 

Recipe courtesy Bruce and Eric Bromberg, owners of 

Blue Ribbon Restaurants Group, and authors of Bromberg 

Bros. Blue Ribbon Cookbook: Better Home Cooking 

(Clarkson Potter, 2010) 

Kosher salt, to taste 

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, 

plus more, to taste 

1 pound brisket, approximately 3–3½ pounds 

4 tablespoons unsalted butter 

5 pounds small yellow onions, 

peeled and halved 

1 cup dry white wine 

1 cup veal or chicken stock, plus more if 

needed 

1½ tablespoons fresh thyme leaves 

2 celery stalks, diced 

1 tomato, diced 

4 garlic cloves, peeled 

Preheat an oven to 300˚F. 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

A MODERN HANUKKAH 

Bruce Bromberg has a James Beard award-winning latke recipe, but during the festival 

of lights, his mother is the one who cooks. Her preparation of family recipes reminds 

the chef and co-owner of Blue Ribbon at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, that there’s 

nothing better than comfort food made with care. The joy of Hanukkah, Bromberg says, 

is that “the cooking is the same every year.” —LILLY KUWASHIMA 

REALLY GOOD BRISKET 

KOSHER WINE PICKS 

Sprinkle the salt and pepper over the brisket and 

let sit for 15 minutes. In a saucepan set over medium 

heat, melt the butter. Add the onions, cut side 

down, in the pot. Cook over medium heat until the 

onions have browned on the bottom, approximately 

7 minutes. Pour the wine and stock over the onions, 

covering them by about 1 inch. Add more stock, if 

needed. Add the thyme and black pepper, and bring 

the liquid to a simmer. Place the brisket, fatty-side 

up, on top of the onions. Add the celery, tomato and 

garlic to the pot. Cover and let cook in the oven, 

turning once, until it’s very tender, about 3 hours. 

Once cooked, transfer the brisket to a serving platter. 

In a large pot set over high heat, boil the remaining 

braising liquid until it’s reduced by half, 

about 15 minutes. Cool slightly and carefully purée 

the liquid in a food processor. Strain it through a 

fine-mesh sieve and serve it alongside the brisket. 

Serves 6–8. 

There’s no better way to celebrate the festival of lights than with top-scoring Israeli wine. That’s 

why Wine Enthusiast’s Tasting Director, Lauren Buzzeo, provides a diverse selection of red, white 

and dessert wines that your guests can enjoy while spinning the dreidel. L’chaim! 

Domaine du Castel 

91 2010 C Blanc du Castel 

Chardonnay (Judean 

Hills). With 12 months 

spent in French oak, this is a 

rich and well-rounded Chardonnay 

that exhibits excellent 

balance and structure, 

matching bright acidity and 

refreshing sweet citrus flavors. 

abv: 14% Price: $50 

Golan Heights Winery 

91 2008 Yarden El Rom 

Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Galilee). A stunning 

and balanced Cabernet, 

this wine boasts ripe blackberry, 

cherry and cassis aromas 

and flavors, dusted with 

accents of cedar, cocoa powder 

and cigar box spice. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $59 

Binyamina 2009 Re- 

90 serve Late Harvest 

Cluster Select Gewürztraminer 

(Galilee). This is a 

stunning, well-balanced lateharvest 

selection that’s sure to 

be a welcome addition to any 

dessert course. Notes of ginger 

and sweet baking spice lift 

the baked apple, peach and 

apricot preserve core. 

abv: 9% Price: $27/375 ml 

7 

PHOTO BY KATE SEARS

HANUKKAH 


HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

The Festival of Lights is the perfect time to give cherished traditions a contemporary twist. 

Combine the comfort of hand-me-down recipes with modern décor and you’ll make your guests 

feel at home in a stylish setting. Wine Enthusiast tapped Colleen Mullaney, a New York-based 

lifestyle expert and author of Fairy Parties: Recipes, Crafts, and Games for Enchanting Celebrations 

(Chronicle Books, 2010), among other books, to dish her top tips that will help make your 

Hanukkah hosting the highlight of everyone’s holiday season. 

INJECT STRIKING COLORS the impeccably-folded napkins, looks clean 

Update Hanukkah’s standard blue and and crisp. 

white color scheme by veering towards 

deep and sleek sapphire-hued tablecloths 

and plates. Accent the dark elements with 

shiny, silver menorahs and utensils. For an 

added touch, Mullaney advises filling several 

glass hurricanes with striking navy, sil- 

ver and white ornaments and placing them 

throughout the home. 

PARTY FAVORS 

Make your guests feel welcome by leav- 

ing a small box filled with gelt (chocolate 

coins) on each place setting. Choose royal 

blue boxes adorned with shiny white ribbon, 

to fit well with your overall color 

scheme. For an extrapersonal touch, write 

each guest’s name on a gift tag so that the 

CENTERPIECES WITH SASS goodies can double as place cards. 

Fill crystal, glass or white bowls with ornaments 

in your color scheme in the center 

of the dining table, or you can fill the bowl 

with dreidels (four-sided spinning tops) in 

contemporary colors as your decorative 

touchstone. Mixing the two is another 

good option. 

LET THE WINE SHINE 

Showcase Israel’s kosher wine in stylish 

stemware. With your latke course, sip the 

Domaine du Castel’s 2010 Chardonnay 

from a Fusion Classic Chardonnay Wine 

Glass ($49.95 for a set of four at wine 

enthusiast.com). Then break out the 

CLEAN & CRISP Fusion Infinity Cabernet Stemware ($69.95 

Give your holiday tabletop a streamlined for a set of four at wineenthusiast.com) 

look by adding a cobalt-colored table run- to enjoy a bottle of Golan Heights’s 2008 

ner and nickel plate chargers. Make sure 

every piece, from the polished flatware to 

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon with brisket. 

PLAYLIST 

“Dreidel,” Erran Baron Cohen featuring Jules Brookes; “How Do You Spell Chunnukkahh?” The 

LeeVees; “Hanuka’s Flame,” The Klezmatics; “The Chanukah Song,” Adam Sandler; “Ocho Kandalikas,” 

Erran Baron Cohen featuring Yasmin Levy; “Beginning to See the Light,” The Velvet 

Underground; “Hanukkah Blessings,” Barenaked Ladies. Get Wine Enthusiast’s Ultimate Holiday 

Entertaining Guide playlist on Spotify. 

8 

PHOTO © OCEAN/CORBIS

CHRISTMAS 

Recipe courtesy the Frescobaldi family, of Marchesi de’ 

Frescobaldi, frescobaldi.it 

1 beef rib, approximately 5 pounds 

Salt and pepper, to taste 

1 large onion, chopped 

2 celery stalks, chopped 

2 small carrots, cut into ¼-inch cubes 

3 tablespoons olive oil 

½ (750-ml) bottle red wine (the family 

recommends Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 

Nipozzano Riserva) 

2 cups tomato purée 

1 tablespoon tomato paste 

3 tablespoon flour 

Season the beef with salt and pepper, and place it 

in a large roasting pan set over medium heat. Braise 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

A TUSCAN-STYLE CHRISTMAS 

Sparkling sunbursts from overhead icicle lights spread a golden glow throughout the 

chilly pedestrian alleys that lead to Piazza della Signoria in Florence, Italy. Shoppers 

crisscross the stone square and elaborate nativity scenes are featured in the window 

dressings. The mood is set: It’s Christmas in Tuscany. But wherever it is you’re celebrating 

this season, adopt the Tuscan traditions of elegance, finesse and understated celebrations 

spent around the dining room table. —MONICA LARNER 

BRASATO NATALIZIO AL NIPOZZANO 

(RED WINE RIB ROAST) 

MONTE BIANCO 

Recipe courtesy the Antinori family, of Marchesi 

Antinori, antinori.it 

1½ pounds fresh chestnuts, peeled 

2 cups of milk 

2 

/3 cups sugar 

Pinch of salt 

1 tablespoon bitter chocolate powder 

1 tablespoon vanilla extract 

1½ ounces rum 

2 cups fresh whipping cream 

2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar 

1 tablespoon bitter chocolate powder 

2 tablespoons bitter chocolate, in chips or 

small cubes 

½ cup marrons glacé, cubed 

the meat, turning it over to brown on all sides. In 

another pan, sauté the onion, celery and carrots in 

olive oil until soft. When the vegetables are soft, 

add them to the roast beef pan, pour in the wine, 

and lower the heat. Add the tomato purée and tomato 

paste to the pan, stirring the ingredients to 

form a sauce. Cover the roasting pan and slow cook 

for two hours. To prevent the meat and sauce from 

drying out, add a few tablespoons of water if necessary. 

When the meat is very tender, after about 2½ hours, 

remove and set aside, keeping the sauce in the pan 

covered. In another saucepan set over low heat, 

stir together the flour and 3 tablespoons of water. 

When heated, add the mixture to the saucepan. 

Mix well to produce a thick gravy. Slice the beef 

and pour the gravy on top before serving. Serves 4. 

Using a knife, cut an X into the outer shell of each 

chestnut, then let them boil in hot water for 10 

minutes. Remove the chestnuts, and peel off and 

discard the outer shells. Place the chestnuts in a 

pot, add the milk, sugar and salt, and let cook for 

20 minutes. Mash the mixture into a paste. Add the 

chocolate powder, vanilla extract and rum, and mix 

until a dough is formed. Refrigerate for 2 hours. 

Run the dough through a pasta machine turned to 

the setting used to create spaghetti. Place a small 

pile of the chestnut spaghetti on a serving platter, 

and cover the sides of the spaghetti with the 

whipped cream. Sprinkle with the confectioners’ 

sugar, chocolate powder, chocolate chips and marrons 

glacé. Serves 4. 

9 

PHOTO BY BRUNO BRUCHI

CHRISTMAS 


HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

You have already prepared the perfect meal, poured delicious wine and shaken up some seriously 

tasty cocktails, but there’s one more thing to ensure that your guests are in high holiday spirits— 

Christmas decorations. Colleen Mullaney, New York-based lifestyle expert and author of Fairy 

Parties: Recipes, Crafts, and Games for Enchanting Celebrations (Chronicle Books, 2010), among 

other books, suggests a simple, yet stylish tabletop setup with a splash of color. 

STEMWARE ADDS A SPLASH 

OF COLOR 

Festive stemware at a Christmas dinner is 

a must, according to Mullaney. Instead of 

your everyday glassware, pour libations 

and wine into goblets made from pewter, 

silver, mercury glass or ruby-stained crystal. 

Don’t hesitate to serve beer in the goblets, 

too; their wide rims will allow aromatic 

Christmas beers to fill the room with scents 

of sugar, spice and everything nice. 

“I bought my red wine goblets in Ireland 

while visiting one of my dear friends,” Mullaney 

says, and she uses them on Christmas 

every year. 

TURN TO YOUR STASH 

Mullaney is a big fan of “using what you 

have.” There’s no need to dish out cash 

for new holiday decorations if you already 

own some. Make the old look new by arranging 

the tabletop slightly differently, 

with a new, simple centerpiece: a crystal 

vase filled with fresh red and white flowers. 

PLAYLIST 

RED AND WHITE ALL OVER 

“Finish your table with mats in vibrant 

hues and linen napkins in coordinating 

tones,” suggests Mullaney. Shiny white 

plates can provide a crisp accent to the 

mats’ and napkins’ lush colors. Ornamental 

napkin holders that match elements of 

your centerpiece will tie the look of your 

entire tabletop together. “Chargers, china 

and glassware in bright colors all make for 

a holiday table to remember.” 

ORNAMENTS, NOT EVERGREENS 

Evergreen branches and wreaths may be 

classic Christmas pieces, but who wants 

to clean up all of those needles? Use your 

Christmas tree beads to decorate the tabletop 

by bunching them up around the centerpiece, 

or fill a bowl with ornaments in 

red, gold and green, and place them on 

either side of the table for an extra touch 

of color. You’ll have all of the evergreen’s 

merriness with none of its messiness. 

“Deck the Halls,” Vic Damone; “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas,” Frank Sinatra; “O Holy 

Night,” Al Martino; “Baby, It’s Cold Outside,” James Taylor featuring Natalie Cole; “Christmas 

Time is Here,” Diana Krall. Get Wine Enthusiast’s Ultimate Holiday Entertaining Guide playlist 

on Spotify. 

10

CHRISTMAS 

COQUITO 

(PUERTO RICAN 

EGG NOG) 

Recipe courtesy Lynnette Marrero, bar consultant and president of 

Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails 

This festive tipple combines exotic flavors of coconut milk and 

cinnamon bark for the perfect holiday drink. 

¼ cup crushed cinnamon bark or 10 cinnamon sticks 

(use an intense cinnamon, such as canela) 

½ vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 

1 (12-ounce) can organic coconut milk 

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk 

1 (12-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk 

2 cups rum (1 cup white rum like Flor de Caña and 

1 cup aged rum, such as Zacapa 23 make for 

a tastier drink) 

1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg, to garnish 

In a medium saucepan, boil the cinnamon sticks or crushed 

cinnamon bark and vanilla bean in 1 cup of water. Let boil for 2 

minutes, turn off the heat, and then let sit for 1 hour. Strain the 

liquid, making sure to reserve the cinnamon in a separate bowl. 

In batches, blend the canned coconut milk, evaporated and 

condensed milks, and slowly add the cinnamon-vanilla water. Add 

the rums to the mixture and mix well. Transfer the mixture into a 

large plastic container and refrigerate overnight. 

Prior to serving, use a blender and blend the eggnog until it’s well 

mixed. Serve chilled with freshly grated nutmeg. Serves 8–10. 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

FIVE TOP CHRISTMAS BEERS 

This Christmas, serve these high-alcohol, full-bodied brews that boast intense flavors of holiday 

spices—like cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and pine—as well as seasonal fruits like figs and citrus 

peels. —LAUREN BUZZEO 

Port Brewing Santa’s Little Helper 

93 

Imperial Stout (American Double/ 

Imperial Stout; Port Brewing, CA). Aged in 

Bourbon barrels for nine months, this beer is not 

for the faint of heart. A thick, almost black pour 

with a small head promises intensity, and the 

nose delivers just that with rich, boozy aromas 

of chocolate liqueur, maple wood, brown butter, 

dried figs, dates and a touch of resiny pine. Big 

and softly carbonated with serious heft to the 

roasted malt, caramel sauce, cigar box and 

vanilla ice cream flavors. This is one serious brew 

that’s definitely something to share with friends. 

Try cellaring to mellow the intensity a bit. 

abv: 10.0% Price: $12/22 oz 

Jolly Pumpkin Noel de Calabaza 

91 

(Belgian Dark Strong Ale; Jolly 

Pumpkin Artisan Ales, MI). A rich mahogany 

color with an opaque core and a coffee-colored 

head. The bouquet is dominated by sour fruit 

and tart oak notes, followed by aromas of soft 

sweet spice, black pepper and a slight medicinal 

characteristic. Medium bodied with brisk 

carbonation, the palate shows hints of sour 

cherries and red apples, a touch of roasted cedar 

plank and prominent notes of bretty wildness 

and floral hop. Closes nicely with flavors of sour 

raspberries, lightly roasted malts and a sweet 

kiss of caramel. 

abv: 9.0% Price: $13/750 ml 

Deschutes Jubelale (Winter Warmer; 

90 

Deschutes Brewery, OR). Though the 

spice profile takes center stage, there’s definitely 

a bitter edge to the mouth and a hop kick on the 

finish of this brew. Otherwise, Jubelale is a 

typical winter warmer, with a gorgeous dark 

brown color and a beautiful malt- and sweetspice-laden 

bouquet. A soft glimmer of dried red 

fruit and a light drizzle of caramel add depth to 

the palate, while the finish shows a light roasted 

cocoa nib expression. Balanced and very 

drinkable. 

abv: 6.7% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack 

Tröegs The Mad Elf Ale (Belgian 

90 

Dark Strong Ale; Tröegs Brewing 

Co., PA). Pours a gorgeous rust-tinged ruby red 

color with a tiny head. You can’t smell the 

alcohol, per se, but it smells like a strong beer 

with aromas of honey, banana and clove-like 

phenols. A soft note of pepper and a hint of 

cherry appear as the beer warms. The palate 

offers more cherry notes along with subtle 

touches of cinnamon, honey and floral hop. This 

is medium to full bodied, complex and well 

balanced, despite the high alcohol. The finish is 

long with great evolution, starting sweet and 

then moving to a roasty close with a hint of 

bitterness. 

abv: 11.0% Price: $15/6 pack 

Avery Old Jubilation Ale (Winter 

89 

Warmer; Avery Brewing Co., 

CO). Brewed with a blend of five different malts 

and no added spices, this is a roasty and nutty 

winter warmer that satisfies. The amber-flecked 

mahogany pour boasts strong aromas of earthy 

hops and pine against the roasted malt core. The 

full-bodied palate shows more of the same, with 

a strong hoppy thread weaving through the 

flavors of hazelnut shell and dark red fruit. A 

touch of sweet smoke balances out the 

otherwise bitter finish. 

abv: 8.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack 

11 

PHOTO BY JON VAN GORDER

HOLIDAY GIFTS 

GIFT-GIVING 101 

Our editors sound off on the perfect presents to give to your host, or gift to your guests this holiday season. 

1. WINE STRAWS ($2.99 for four; $7.99 for 12, 

winestraws.com) The brainchild of a red-wine lover 

who hated to see her teeth change color after drinking, 

these handy straws prevent dental stains and 

lipstick marks on your glass. —VIRGINIE BOONE, 

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR 

2. SILENT 28-BOTTLE TOUCHSCREEN WINE RE- 

FRIGERATOR ($299.95, wineenthusiast.com) While 

you watch college bowl games and plot your custom 

wine cellar, keep a bottle per game cool in this handy 

28-bottle wine fridge. Its touchscreen features make 

it a perfect gift for the tech-savvy wino. —ROGER 

VOSS, EUROPEAN EDITOR 

3. WINE WARS! A TRIVIA GAME FOR WINE 

GEEKS AND WANNABES ($13.50, uncommon 

goods.com) I once received this as a gift, and it’s a 

blast to break out at parties stocked with good drinks, 

tasty food and great people. Just be ready to play with 

your lucky recipient! —LAUREN BUZZEO, TAST- 

ING DIRECTOR 

4. THE NEW YORK TIMES BOOK OF WINE: THE 

BEST STORIES ON WINE (Sterling Epicure, 2012) 

($24.95, nytstore.com) This collection brings readers 

on a remarkable historical and cultural journey. It 

helps to be a wine lover to appreciate it, but it’s not a 

requirement. —JOE CZERWINSKI, MANAGING 

EDITOR 

5. FUSION CLASSIC PINOT NOIR GLASSES 

($49.95, wineenthusiast.com) You won’t get your 

money back if you break them intentionally, but with 

a 10-year limited warranty against breakage, drunk 

wine lovers will still enjoy dropping these from ever- 

increasing heights to test their true durability. —JOE 

CZERWINSKI, MANAGING EDITOR 

6. DOGFISH HEAD NOBLE ROT ($15/750 ml, 

dogfish.com) My favorite beverage gift is a craft 

beer that will really amaze, particularly for women 

that claim they don’t drink beer (which I’m more 

than happy to prove wrong). —LAUREN BUZZEO, 

TASTING DIRECTOR 

7. COCKTAIL KINGDOM MIXING SET: ($69.95, 

wineenthusiast.com) As a libation lover, I covet this 

Yarai-style cocktail mixing set. The vintage quality of 

the mixing glass, the easy-to-grip stainless steel bar 

spoon and the light weight strainer make it my set of 

choice during the holiday season—and it’s a great gift. 

—MARINA VATAJ, WEB EDITOR/PRODUCER 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

TOP 15 BEST BUYS UNDER $15 

What’s a great bottle of wine for $15 or under? It’s a constant conundrum of the wine 

lover—how do you get the most bang for your buck? Wonder no more. Here’s a list of 

Wine Enthusiast’s top Best Buys to pour at the dinner table this holiday season: 

93 

93 

93 

91 

91 

91 

91 

91 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Colheita 

(Douro). M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Estate 

Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). —P.G. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

Uvaggio 2010 Vermentino (Lodi). 

—V.B. 


Caves Velhas 2008 Catedral 

Reserva (Dão). Prestige Wine Group. 

—R.V 


Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Dry 

Riesling (Columbia Valley). —P.G. 


Fattoria Kappa 2009 Kappa 

(Toscana). The Wine Collective. 

—M.L. 


Kaiken 2009 Corte Malbec-Bonarda-Petit 

Verdot (Mendoza). T.G.I.C. 

Importers. —M.S. . 

abv: 14.5% Price: $14 

Oak Knoll 2009 Pinot Gris 

(Willamette Valley). —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

91 

90 

90 

90 

90 

89 

89 

Pacific Rim 2011 Dry Riesling 

(Columbia Valley). —P.G. 

abv: 12.8% Price: $11 

Château Saint-Sernin 2009 Cahors. 

Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Vega (Douro). 

Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $9 

Liberty School 2009 Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Paso Robles). —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

Loosen Bros. 2010 Dr. L Riesling 

(Mosel). Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C. 

abv: 8.5% Price: $12 

Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio 

Grenache-Merlot (Vin de Pays de la 

Méditerranée). Bourgeois Family 

Selections. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

Wrongo Dongo 2010 Monastrell 

(Jumilla). Fine Estates From Spain. 

—M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $9 

12


Recipe adapted with permission from Kansha: Celebrating 

Japan’s Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions (Ten 

Speed Press, 2010) by Elizabeth Andoh 

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 cup dried kuromamé (sweet black 

soybeans, available at most Asian or 

Japanese markets), rinsed 

2 cups sugar 

2 teaspoons soy sauce 

In a deep bowl, mix the baking soda with 3 cups of 

water, stirring to dissolve the baking soda. Add the 

beans and let them soak, completely submerged, 

at room temperature for at least 8 hours or preferably 

10–12 hours. To make sure they remain moist 

throughout the soaking, dampen a cheesecloth and 

place directly on the soaking beans. 

Transfer the swollen beans and what remains of 

the water to a deep 3-quart pot. Place the pot over 

medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Skim away 

any aku (froth, scum, or film) with a fine-mesh 

skimmer, and add water as needed to cover the 

beans by about 1 inch. Adjust the heat to maintain 

a steady, not-too-vigorous simmer. Place the 

cheesecloth on top of the simmering beans. 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 


Oshogatsu—New Year’s season in Japan—emphasizes spending time at home with family, 

enjoying felicitous food. Near midnight on December 31, multigenerational families 

sit side-by-side “slurping year-crossing soba noodles that are long in hopes of not cutting 

short the possibilities in the new year,” says Elizabeth Andoh, author of Kansha: Celebrating 

Japan’s Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions (Ten Speed Press, 2010). Serve this delicious 

sweet black beans side dish, created by Andoh, for good luck. —LILLY KUWASHIMA 

SWEET BLACK BEANS 

JAPANESE WHISKY 

Hibiki Aged 12 Years Whisky (Japan; 

92 

Suntory International Corp., New York, 

NY). With a little water, this golden blended whisky 

opens up with delicate, nuanced honey and flower aromas 

and flavors. Finishes smoky, dry and brisk. —K.N. 

Cook the beans for 2 hours until tender, checking 

the intensity of the heat and the water level every 

15–20 minutes. Add water as needed to keep the 

beans barely submerged. 

Meanwhile, make the syrup by combining the sugar 

and 1½ cups of water in a deep, heavy 2-quart 

saucepan set over medium heat, stirring to dissolve 

the sugar. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to 

cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is syrupy 

and reduced to about 1 cup, about 10 minutes. 

Transfer the beans to a heavy pot. Add the syrup, 

replace the cheesecloth, and simmer over medium 

heat for 10 minutes, or until the beans are barely 

covered with the syrup. Remove from the heat, and 

allow the beans to cool in the syrup. 

Peel back the cheesecloth, add the soy sauce to the 

cooled syrup, and stir well. Replace the cheesecloth 

and place the pot over low heat. Bring the syrup 

slowly to a boil and cook for 2 minutes. Set the 

beans aside to cool completely, then transfer to a 

clean glass jar. Seal with a tight-fitting lid, and refrigerate 

for up to 10 days. Yields 3–3½ cups. 

The Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky (Ja- 

91 

pan; Suntory International Corp., New 

York, NY). Apple and pear aromas, and delicate floral 

and fruity flavors mark this Japanese whisky, which 

finishes smoky, elegant and restrained. —K.N. 

SAKÉ RECOMMENDATION 

The Tengumai (Dancing Goblin) Junmai Daiginjo 50 from Shata Shuzo Co., Ltd. (Ishikawa, Japan). 

This shows Tengumai’s characteristically robust, earthy style with fresh, herbal tones and the crisp, easydrinking 

feel of an ultrapremium junmai daiginjo. —A.I. 

13 

PHOTO BY KATE SEARS



HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

There’s no better time than the New Year to embrace all things ultramodern. “You can host a 

fabulous party by taking the smart and sassy approach,” Mullaney says. High-tech devices and 

tableware in clean, modern shapes will help you ring in 2013 with a bang. Just remember to 

keep everything clean, crisp and focused. Modernist design is all about technical innovation and 

minimal adornment. 

WHITE, BLACK AND SILVER 

Show off your state-of-the-art cuisine with 

cutting-edge table décor by keeping your 

colors simple and streamlined in tones 

of white, black and silver. Dishes with 

squared-off edges will make the colors and 

flavors of the food pop. Small touches of 

chrome and glass—salt and pepper shakers, 

for instance—imbue your dinner with 

contemporary flair. 

ULTRAMODERN STEMWARE 

Pour your wine in glasses that have a sleek 

modern look, such as the Fusion Infin ity 

Wine Glass set (16 glasses for $199). Forget 

the typical corkscrew and upgrade to 

an electric version. The Wine Enthusiast 

Elec tric Push Button Corkscrew ($29.95), 

available at wineenthusiast.com, will 

make it easy to open your various bottles 

and also match your techonogical theme. 

PLAYLIST 

DIY COCKTAILS 

Don’t be afraid to make your guests do 

it themselves, especially at this modern 

celebration. Mullaney suggests setting up 

a self-serve cocktail station, where guests 

can mix up libations on their own. Arrange 

the ingredients for a signature tipple, 

complete with instructions and a jigger for 

measurement. This will also ensure that 

you have time to mingle rather than merely 

bartend. 

TABLETS AND TABLESCAPES 

Mullaney says she likes to “tablescape.” 

“[It’s] creating a story down the table, 

rather than a single centerpiece.” Achieve 

telling a story the modern way by 

strategically placing tablets, such as an iPad 

or a Kindle Fire HD, on your dining table. On 

these devices, she suggests that you show a 

slideshow of images of your trip to a wine 

region, or a video of yourself prepping the 

evening’s dinner. 

“1999,” Prince; “Auld Lang Syne,” The Beach Boys; “Raise Your Glass,” Pink; “2012 (It Ain’t The 

End),” Jay Sean featuring Nicki Minaj; “What Are You Doin’ New Year’s Eve,” Lou Rawls. Get Wine 

Enthusiast’s Ultimate Holiday Entertaining Guide playlist on Spotify. 

14 

PHOTO BY KATE SEARS


BELLA RUFFINA 

Brachetto d’Acqui is a low-alcohol sparkling red wine 

from Italy; Carpano Antica is a full-flavored sweet 

vermouth that complements the herbaceous qualities 

in the sparkling wine. This brightly hued cocktail marries 

both in one exuberant sip. 

4 ounces Brachetto d’Acqui 

1 ounce Carpano Antica 

1 dash orange bitters 

1 Amarena cherry, for garnish 

Combine the sparkling wine, vermouth and bitters 

in a Champagne flute and stir gently. Drop the 

cherry into the bottom of the glass and serve. 

HOLIDAY 

ENTERTAINING 

2012 

SPARKLING WINES FOR ANY BUDGET 

No matter your means, year-end holidays call for celebratory bubbles. Here are our 

editors’ current favorites. 

$15 OR LESS 

Treveri Cellars NV Brut (Columbia 

90 

Valley). This creamy sparkler features a 

mix of apricot, peach and papaya flavors. It has 

exceptional length. Best Buy. —P.G. 


88 Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut (Columbia 

Valley). This sparkler is made 

mostly from Chardonnay, with the addition of 

12% Pinot Noir. It features nice focus, density and 

length, especially at this price. Best Buy. —P.G. 

abv: 11.3% Price: $12 

Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (Califor- 

88 

nia). This was my highest-rated sparkling 

wine of the year in this price category. This 

is one of Korbel’s fuller-bodied sparklers, rich in 

raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and dough flavors. 

Best Buy. —S.H. 


$16–$25 

Scharffenberger NV Brut Rosé 

92 

(Mendocino County). Resplendent in 

aromas and flavors of peach and strawberry, this 

sparkler is a stunner, with a creamy mousse, medium 

body and bright acidity. —V.B. 


91 J Vineyards & Winery NV 25th Anniversary 

J Cuvée (Russian River Valley). 

This brut-style wine is refined and smooth, 

BRUT NV: Often the best values, 

these are blends of different vintages 

and vineyards. 

BRUT NATURE OR BRUT ZERO: 

These are bone dry, great with 

oysters and fried snacks. 

EXTRA DRY AND SEC: These 

are less dry than brut, but not as 

sweet as the dessert-style demisec 

and doux sparklers. 

with a rich mousse seldom found in California 

sparkling wines. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $24 

90 Bailly-Lapierre NV Pinot Noir Brut 

(Crémant de Bourgogne). Because 

Bailly-Lapierre gets its grapes from the region 

around Chablis, this is a cool-climate sparkler, 

close to Champagne both geographically and in 

style. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. 


$26–$50 

VINTAGE: These are produced 

from a single year’s harvest, 

with a focused expression of 

terroir. Vintage Champagnes are 

released only in the best years. 

ROSÉ: The best gain color from 

skin contact; others add red wine 

to the initial blend. 

BLANC DE BLANCS: Usually 

made from Chardonnay, these are 

elegant, delicate sparkling wines. 

93 Gloria Ferrer 2004 Royal Cuvée Brut 

(Carneros). Gloria’s Royal Cuvée is a 

classic brut blend of two-thirds Pinot Noir and 

one-third Chardonnay. The price is remarkably 

fair for a vintage wine with eight years of aging 

on the yeast. —S.H. 


91 Ferrari 2006 Perlé (Trento). A wine 

that shows its cool-climate, northern Italian 

roots, this Chardonnay-based sparkler is redolent 

of Golden Delicious apple, roasted almond 

and zesty citrus. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $33 

90 Quartz Reef NV Methode Traditionelle 

(Central Otago). The price is a 

bargain for a hand-riddled and -disgorged sparkler 

that’s complex with biscuit flavor, yet crisp, 

dry and refreshing. Station Imports. —J.C. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $27 

DECIPHERING SPARKLING WINE TERMS 

The official terminology associated with most sparkling wines is based upon the laws of Champagne. 

Here’s a quick guide to the meaning of the most important terms. 

BLANC DE NOIRS: Made typically 

from Pinot Noir and/or Pinot 

Meunier, these generally 

have the most body and fruit. 

GRAND CRU: In Champagne, 

vineyards are classified. Grand 

cru is the best. —Paul Gregutt 

15 

PHOTO BY JON VAN GORDER

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU 

To share your holiday traditions with Wine Enthusiast, visit winemag.com/ultimateholidays and join the conversation. 

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