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holiday - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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NEW YEAR’S EVE<br />

BELLA RUFFINA<br />

Brachetto d’Acqui is a low-alcohol sparkling red wine<br />

from Italy; Carpano Antica is a full-flavored sweet<br />

vermouth that complements the herbaceous qualities<br />

in the sparkling wine. This brightly hued cocktail marries<br />

both in one exuberant sip.<br />

4 ounces Brachetto d’Acqui<br />

1 ounce Carpano Antica<br />

1 dash orange bitters<br />

1 Amarena cherry, for garnish<br />

Combine the sparkling wine, vermouth and bitters<br />

in a Champagne flute and stir gently. Drop the<br />

cherry into the bottom of the glass and serve.<br />

HOLIDAY<br />

ENTERTAINING<br />

2012<br />

SPARKLING WINES FOR ANY BUDGET<br />

No matter your means, year-end <strong>holiday</strong>s call for celebratory bubbles. Here are our<br />

editors’ current favorites.<br />

$15 OR LESS<br />

Treveri Cellars NV Brut (Columbia<br />

90<br />

Valley). This creamy sparkler features a<br />

mix of apricot, peach and papaya flavors. It has<br />

exceptional length. Best Buy. —P.G.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $14<br />

88 Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut (Columbia<br />

Valley). This sparkler is made<br />

mostly from Chardonnay, with the addition of<br />

12% Pinot Noir. It features nice focus, density and<br />

length, especially at this price. Best Buy. —P.G.<br />

abv: 11.3% Price: $12<br />

Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (Califor-<br />

88<br />

nia). This was my highest-rated sparkling<br />

wine of the year in this price category. This<br />

is one of Korbel’s fuller-bodied sparklers, rich in<br />

raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and dough flavors.<br />

Best Buy. —S.H.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $13<br />

$16–$25<br />

Scharffenberger NV Brut Rosé<br />

92<br />

(Mendocino County). Resplendent in<br />

aromas and flavors of peach and strawberry, this<br />

sparkler is a stunner, with a creamy mousse, medium<br />

body and bright acidity. —V.B.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $23<br />

91 J Vineyards & <strong>Wine</strong>ry NV 25th Anniversary<br />

J Cuvée (Russian River Valley).<br />

This brut-style wine is refined and smooth,<br />

BRUT NV: Often the best values,<br />

these are blends of different vintages<br />

and vineyards.<br />

BRUT NATURE OR BRUT ZERO:<br />

These are bone dry, great with<br />

oysters and fried snacks.<br />

EXTRA DRY AND SEC: These<br />

are less dry than brut, but not as<br />

sweet as the dessert-style demisec<br />

and doux sparklers.<br />

with a rich mousse seldom found in California<br />

sparkling wines. —S.H.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $24<br />

90 Bailly-Lapierre NV Pinot Noir Brut<br />

(Crémant de Bourgogne). Because<br />

Bailly-Lapierre gets its grapes from the region<br />

around Chablis, this is a cool-climate sparkler,<br />

close to Champagne both geographically and in<br />

style. William Harrison Imports. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $24<br />

$26–$50<br />

VINTAGE: These are produced<br />

from a single year’s harvest,<br />

with a focused expression of<br />

terroir. Vintage Champagnes are<br />

released only in the best years.<br />

ROSÉ: The best gain color from<br />

skin contact; others add red wine<br />

to the initial blend.<br />

BLANC DE BLANCS: Usually<br />

made from Chardonnay, these are<br />

elegant, delicate sparkling wines.<br />

93 Gloria Ferrer 2004 Royal Cuvée Brut<br />

(Carneros). Gloria’s Royal Cuvée is a<br />

classic brut blend of two-thirds Pinot Noir and<br />

one-third Chardonnay. The price is remarkably<br />

fair for a vintage wine with eight years of aging<br />

on the yeast. —S.H.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $32<br />

91 Ferrari 2006 Perlé (Trento). A wine<br />

that shows its cool-climate, northern Italian<br />

roots, this Chardonnay-based sparkler is redolent<br />

of Golden Delicious apple, roasted almond<br />

and zesty citrus. Palm Bay International. —M.L.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $33<br />

90 Quartz Reef NV Methode Traditionelle<br />

(Central Otago). The price is a<br />

bargain for a hand-riddled and -disgorged sparkler<br />

that’s complex with biscuit flavor, yet crisp,<br />

dry and refreshing. Station Imports. —J.C.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $27<br />

DECIPHERING SPARKLING WINE TERMS<br />

The official terminology associated with most sparkling wines is based upon the laws of Champagne.<br />

Here’s a quick guide to the meaning of the most important terms.<br />

BLANC DE NOIRS: Made typically<br />

from Pinot Noir and/or Pinot<br />

Meunier, these generally<br />

have the most body and fruit.<br />

GRAND CRU: In Champagne,<br />

vineyards are classified. Grand<br />

cru is the best. —Paul Gregutt<br />

15<br />

PHOTO BY JON VAN GORDER

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