Jean-Baptiste Mondino - Textile and Fashion Management
Jean-Baptiste Mondino - Textile and Fashion Management
Jean-Baptiste Mondino - Textile and Fashion Management
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FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong>:<br />
<strong>Fashion</strong> is a dying process.<br />
Course: fashion visual communication- module 3<br />
Student: Jiashen Han (X090207)
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Chapter 1 Who is <strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong>?<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> is a photographyer, music video <strong>and</strong> advertisement<br />
director.<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong>’s Bio<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> as one of the most<br />
famous fashion photographers in the world was<br />
born in Aubervilliers, France in 1949, <strong>and</strong><br />
currently resides in Paris. He started working in<br />
the seventies as the artistic director for the<br />
advertising agency publicis. He also had a career<br />
as a DJ <strong>and</strong> a composer. In 1983, he released a<br />
single video called “La Danse Des Mots” directed<br />
by himself. In 1985, he was nominated for a<br />
César (best advertising film) for “Maggi:<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>- <strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> portraits<br />
Chinoise”, <strong>and</strong> in 1987 he received “LE 7 D’or”<br />
award for the best French advertisement. Video<br />
“The Boys of Summer” for Don Henley won 4 categories in the 1985 MTV<br />
Video Music Awards (best video, best direction, best art direction <strong>and</strong> best<br />
cinematography). In 1989 he founded the French production company<br />
B<strong>and</strong>its. Since then he had been working for Gaultier, Madonna, Alain<br />
Bushung…..making record covers, music videos, campaigns <strong>and</strong><br />
advertisements.<br />
Signature, style<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> is one of the most influential image-makers of our<br />
times. The world of images we live in is largely pervaded by <strong>Mondino</strong>’s<br />
photographs <strong>and</strong> video clips [1] . <strong>Mondino</strong> creates the trends. In his photos<br />
<strong>and</strong> videos, you can find the real furore world.<br />
His fashion photography is often even more controversial. Sharp-edged<br />
<strong>and</strong> colour saturated, <strong>Mondino</strong>'s graphically composed images are offbeat,<br />
sexy <strong>and</strong> subversive. But behind their seductive surface gloss lies another<br />
layer which is variously ironic, funny, or even sinister [2] .<br />
Most of <strong>Mondino</strong>’s pictures focus on the faces of models (See picture<br />
1).<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> has talent at fashion models features <strong>and</strong><br />
catching interesting faces.<br />
[1]http://www.douban.com/subject/1903925/<br />
[2]http://www.lumiere.com/fashion/96/01/mondino/interview.html
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Picture 1-Pictures by <strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong><br />
Through his photography, models moods <strong>and</strong> inspirits are expressed. In<br />
addition, <strong>Mondino</strong> is used to apply a very fashionable <strong>and</strong> bold technique to<br />
express the meaning of the pictures. Many critics regard him as a genius<br />
who has incredible imagination <strong>and</strong> creativity to capture every breath in<br />
fashion.<br />
<strong>Mondino</strong> as a composer, music is no doubt his favorite element to play with<br />
in the fashion images. As a signature of his shooting modes, electric guitar<br />
plays a crucial role. He is not the only one who has guitar in, but he is<br />
definitely the best one who put soul in the musical instrument. Browsing his<br />
images, guitar is everywhere (See picture 2). Even his favorite portrait is<br />
together with guitar (See cover page).<br />
Picture 2 <strong>Mondino</strong> <strong>and</strong> his guitars
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Different from other photographers who kept models posted for couple<br />
hours to attain aesthetic aims, <strong>Mondino</strong> obviously encourage high-tech to<br />
apply on the pictures. As once he accepted fashion magazine Lumière <strong>and</strong><br />
said “The idea was simply to counter the notion of supermodels. Honestly,<br />
we see them everywhere, <strong>and</strong> something has to be done about it. Because<br />
I couldn't do the project I had in mind (the mutilations) I went for the idea<br />
of super models, increasing the girls' thighs, shrinking their heads. The<br />
potential of the new technology is more than to just make people look<br />
better, it also allows you to do the inverse.” [3] <strong>Mondino</strong> applied digital<br />
adjustment on several super models, Imagine Shalom with a black eye,<br />
Nadja's throat slit, or Amber having lost all her hair. <strong>Mondino</strong>’s recent<br />
interest is to replicate <strong>and</strong> clone the bodies in pictures. But he has the<br />
problem with fashion editors who are reluctant to accept these<br />
manipulations.<br />
Shooting modes<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> preferred shot inside with very simple scene, like<br />
stairs, crashed rooms. He set up his own studio Tiziana Office in Paris.<br />
Recently he has shifted his focus from video direct to fashion photography.<br />
That’s why he chose Paris to reside <strong>and</strong> work.<br />
Customer Base<br />
Today, In addition to his photography, <strong>Mondino</strong> continues to be active with<br />
his film work for commercials <strong>and</strong> music videos, he has directed music<br />
videos for Björk, Brian Ferry, Sting, David Bowie, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez,<br />
Tom Waits <strong>and</strong> Prince. <strong>Mondino</strong> has also photographed the record covers<br />
<strong>and</strong> album packaging for the Marianne Faithfull albums Before The Poison<br />
(2005) <strong>and</strong> Easy Come, Easy Go (2008), not to mention numerous AD<br />
campaigns for well known fashion br<strong>and</strong>s.<br />
<strong>Mondino</strong> applied his innovation on many famed roles, including Brian Ferry,<br />
David Bowie, Boy George, Madonna, Prince, Vanessa Paradis <strong>and</strong> many<br />
others (see picture 3). Obviously they trust his high level qualification on<br />
image expressing, creativity of aesthetics, inventiveness of fashion<br />
popularity <strong>and</strong> of course also the dazzling success in his career life.
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
[3] <strong>Mondino</strong>’s interview with fashion magazine Lumière<br />
Picture 3 fame roles shot by <strong>Mondino</strong><br />
<strong>Mondino</strong> was in chief of many br<strong>and</strong>s’ collections photograph, such as<br />
Jitrois(2003-2004 season), <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier(1999-2007 season). <strong>Fashion</strong><br />
AD campaigns directed by <strong>Mondino</strong> own a high reputation in the fashion<br />
circle, glorious, elegant <strong>and</strong> brilliant. Campaigns for <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier,<br />
Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein <strong>Jean</strong>s, Dior J'adore for Dior, Opium for Yves<br />
Saint Laurent, L'Air du Temps for Nina Ricci were achieved fabulous. He<br />
also shot for The Face, Vogue <strong>and</strong> Glamour etc.<br />
Other photographic areas<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> also shot a lot for record coverings <strong>and</strong> magazines<br />
(see picture 4). Most of them are represented by a face or a half length<br />
figure.
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Books <strong>and</strong> publications<br />
Picture 4 Record covering <strong>and</strong> magazines<br />
DÉJÀ VU too much Guitar<br />
Eros<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>- <strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> has written three books so far including D ÉJÀ VU,<br />
Too much <strong>and</strong> Guitar Eros. D EJA V U is <strong>Mondino</strong>’s best selling book first<br />
published in 1999. This book introduced the 54-year-oldphotographer-<br />
cum-artdirector from Paris to the limelight, where he had previously put<br />
the greatest stars in the rock <strong>and</strong> pop world [4] .<br />
After his bestselling book Déja vu, Too much is published at equally<br />
fantastic images in 2003. His photographs altered the commercial<br />
strategies of the
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
[4] http://www.mbfala.com/publications/_20/<br />
rock, pop <strong>and</strong> fashion industry to some degree. Critics gave Too much a<br />
high reputation which was said “Too Much bears striking witness to the<br />
delight he takes in playing with zeitgeist expressions <strong>and</strong> to his boundless<br />
ingenuity. Technically brilliant, with an equally rich <strong>and</strong> scin-tillating mix of<br />
black humor, glamour, <strong>and</strong> bizarre erotic visions”, even M+B presents Too<br />
much as an essential source of inspiration for all those who by profession or<br />
by passion deal with photography, advertising, <strong>and</strong> life style [5].<br />
Guitar Eros is a masterpiece to have the music element in 2006. As we all<br />
know, <strong>Mondino</strong> originally started as a composer. No wonder, guitar has<br />
always been presented as a unique signature of <strong>Mondino</strong> fashion works. In<br />
his new book <strong>Mondino</strong> presents his guitar photographs created over the<br />
past twenty years as commissioned works or his own projects. They<br />
portray famous rock <strong>and</strong> pop musicians such as Mick Jagger, Madonna,<br />
Tom Waits, <strong>and</strong> Keith Richards; models <strong>and</strong> celebrities with guitars; <strong>and</strong><br />
numerous anonymous guitar players [6] . The shinny stars in these pictures<br />
was not the real stars, but the guitar. From this point, <strong>Mondino</strong> created<br />
stars who or what he wanted to be star.<br />
Most known <strong>and</strong> success factors<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> became to be known for the video “The Boys of<br />
Summer” for Don Henley which swept 4 categories in the 1985 MTV Video<br />
Music Awards in 1985. Cooperation with fame roles made him expensive<br />
<strong>and</strong> meanwhile as famous as the same. <strong>Mondino</strong> shot several notable music<br />
videos in black <strong>and</strong> white in a corporation with Pascal Lebègue , such as<br />
"Russians" for Sting <strong>and</strong> "Justify My Love" for Madonna. Shooting for big<br />
fashion br<strong>and</strong>s led him to fashion circle. Dior J'adore for Dior, Opium for<br />
Yves Saint Laurent, L'Air du Temps for Nina Ricci are all fabulous<br />
advertisement known for people.<br />
“<strong>Fashion</strong> <strong>and</strong> music are the two most influential things for me”, Once<br />
<strong>Mondino</strong> said, “Especially fashion, because fashion is meant to die every 3<br />
months. This doesn't allow you to dwell on it too long. It's a dying process,<br />
<strong>and</strong> this forces you to always move on to the next step.” [7] From the<br />
interview, besides high creative <strong>and</strong> unique photographs, always accepting<br />
new things can be also a factor of success. Fast move <strong>and</strong> innovation keep<br />
<strong>Mondino</strong> evergreen.<br />
[5]http://www.mbfala.com/publications/_19/<br />
[6] http://www.mbfala.com/publications/_18/
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
[7] <strong>Mondino</strong>’s interview with fashion magazine Lumière<br />
Chapter 2 Chosen customer: <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier<br />
In this chapter, how <strong>Jean</strong>- Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> as a fashion photographer<br />
interpreted his signature style to the br<strong>and</strong> image was analyzed <strong>and</strong> related<br />
campaigns were chosen to apply a critical view on how they worked out.<br />
<strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier is a French fashion br<strong>and</strong> named after talent French<br />
designer Gaultier himself. At his seventeen years old, Gaultier started to<br />
step in tailor. After working for Pierre Cardin <strong>and</strong> <strong>Jean</strong> Patou, <strong>Jean</strong> Paul<br />
Gaultier created his own fashion label. Gaultier always break free from the<br />
convention, the last thing he can bear is normal. His design is just like<br />
himself, aesthetic, unique, original. He created a lot of first, first time guys<br />
wear transparent skirts, first time underwear wore outside, also like<br />
Madonna’s infamous cone-shaped bra for the 1990 which gave him “enfant<br />
terrible” reputation. You always can feel a sense of fun from Gaultier’s<br />
design, like Gaultier was a bad boy who played with fashion. In addition to<br />
the garment, Gaultier did successfully to create a fragrance line which is<br />
well known for the signature torso-shaped bottles.<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>- Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> as a fashion photographer highly required<br />
aestheticism, uniqueness <strong>and</strong> originality in his pictures. I guess this creates<br />
a perfect connection for them to cooperate with each other. They influence<br />
each other. <strong>Mondino</strong> are good at capturing mood of figures in the pictures.<br />
He ensouls products with abundant figures around. Apparently,<br />
environment <strong>and</strong> atmosphere are equally important to achieve the desired<br />
effect.<br />
<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> was in chief of Gaultier’ collections photography<br />
from year 1999 to 2007. He also made a lot of campaigns for the fragrance<br />
line. The first campaign introduced below was <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier SS2003.
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Picture 5 <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier SS2003<br />
Models: MariaCarla Boscono, Charlie Weaving.<br />
In this season, Gaultier offered a powerful collection that was remarkable<br />
for the lightness <strong>and</strong> sensuality. Gaultier broke the free to express his<br />
unique style, like fluey big shaped hat, shinny coated h<strong>and</strong>bag <strong>and</strong> matador<br />
tights with Y-slipper. Which were really impressed. <strong>Mondino</strong> used the<br />
ancient wall <strong>and</strong> vintage flower pattern carpet as the background which<br />
served the ready-to-wear garment perfect. MariaCarla <strong>and</strong> Charlie as the<br />
shooting models have the classical blood. I supposed <strong>Mondino</strong> had used<br />
digital technology to make the entire campaign look like painted. Together<br />
with the multicolored light, <strong>Mondino</strong> brought you into a vintage luxurious<br />
dream. From this picture, one of his signatures - colour saturated was well<br />
expressed.
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Picture 6 <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier SS2004<br />
Model: Madeleine Bloomberg, Ivan De Pineda.<br />
Picture 6 shows the collection of SS2004. <strong>Mondino</strong> kept the aesthetic style<br />
in his pictures. The body replication in the pictures which is regarded as one<br />
of his signature is well applied.
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Picture 7 Gaultier fragrance<br />
Picture 7 is the fragrance advisement of Gaultier’s signature torso-shaped<br />
bottles. This is a really glorious campaign. The real bottle does not look as<br />
it is in the picture. <strong>Mondino</strong> made some adjustments on the bottles’ shape.<br />
That is Madonna’s infamous cone-shaped bra which is significant feature of<br />
Gaultier. It made the entire picture interesting. The model’s shoulder<br />
through the transparent bottle can be observed. That made people think<br />
how pure the fragrance is. The background behind the young elegant lady<br />
looks like wind. Together with model’s pose, it makes people start to<br />
imagine the pleasant smelling of the perfume. This advertisement is very<br />
attractive. It enhanced the value of the br<strong>and</strong>, both inspirit <strong>and</strong> money. It<br />
has strengthened the br<strong>and</strong> image <strong>and</strong> forced people to keep the classic<br />
Gaultier signature in mind. In addition, torso-shaped bottle became a<br />
classic icon of Gaultier, no wonder also the best sellers.
FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />
Chapter 3 Discussion <strong>and</strong> conclusions<br />
Doubtless, <strong>Jean</strong>-Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> is one of the most reputable<br />
photographers in the worldwide. <strong>Mondino</strong>’s pictures are not only images.<br />
He tries to express the thoughts <strong>and</strong> stories behind. He explores emotions<br />
buried in the heard of the shooting models, elegant, insolent, lonely, sexy,<br />
aggressive, depressive, serious, pride etc.<br />
His successful video director experience makes <strong>Mondino</strong> better underst<strong>and</strong><br />
fashion <strong>and</strong> brings him a lot fresh air into the photos. <strong>Mondino</strong> always<br />
thought out of the box <strong>and</strong> has courage to do what other people scare to do.<br />
He was the first person to shoot black model. It was quite controversial in<br />
his time.<br />
I browsed all campaigns he made for big br<strong>and</strong>s. Still take Gaultier as an<br />
example, the previous ones look not so attractive. Backgrounds were<br />
simple <strong>and</strong> models’ poses were boring. What’s worse, I can’t read<br />
confidence in models’ faces when they wore these garments in the photos.<br />
In the start of 2003, his photos for Gaultier became fabulous. They always<br />
looked aesthetic <strong>and</strong> abundant. But I personally thought he achieved more<br />
success on advertisements for fragrance, whatever for Gaultier or Dior.<br />
When I saw the photos, I always wanted to buy the perfumes <strong>and</strong> imagined<br />
the feeling I own it.<br />
People who think the photographers should make very pure realistic image<br />
might not accept <strong>Mondino</strong>’s masterpieces. He is a digital technology<br />
advocator. His pictures might not natural, but they are superrealism, funny,<br />
<strong>and</strong> aesthetic after the high tech application. Hope <strong>Jean</strong>-Bapstite create<br />
more masterpiece in his way to pursuit constant innovation <strong>and</strong> high<br />
sensivity for zeitgeist in future.