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Jean-Baptiste Mondino - Textile and Fashion Management

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FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong>:<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong> is a dying process.<br />

Course: fashion visual communication- module 3<br />

Student: Jiashen Han (X090207)


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Chapter 1 Who is <strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong>?<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> is a photographyer, music video <strong>and</strong> advertisement<br />

director.<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong>’s Bio<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> as one of the most<br />

famous fashion photographers in the world was<br />

born in Aubervilliers, France in 1949, <strong>and</strong><br />

currently resides in Paris. He started working in<br />

the seventies as the artistic director for the<br />

advertising agency publicis. He also had a career<br />

as a DJ <strong>and</strong> a composer. In 1983, he released a<br />

single video called “La Danse Des Mots” directed<br />

by himself. In 1985, he was nominated for a<br />

César (best advertising film) for “Maggi:<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>- <strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> portraits<br />

Chinoise”, <strong>and</strong> in 1987 he received “LE 7 D’or”<br />

award for the best French advertisement. Video<br />

“The Boys of Summer” for Don Henley won 4 categories in the 1985 MTV<br />

Video Music Awards (best video, best direction, best art direction <strong>and</strong> best<br />

cinematography). In 1989 he founded the French production company<br />

B<strong>and</strong>its. Since then he had been working for Gaultier, Madonna, Alain<br />

Bushung…..making record covers, music videos, campaigns <strong>and</strong><br />

advertisements.<br />

Signature, style<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> is one of the most influential image-makers of our<br />

times. The world of images we live in is largely pervaded by <strong>Mondino</strong>’s<br />

photographs <strong>and</strong> video clips [1] . <strong>Mondino</strong> creates the trends. In his photos<br />

<strong>and</strong> videos, you can find the real furore world.<br />

His fashion photography is often even more controversial. Sharp-edged<br />

<strong>and</strong> colour saturated, <strong>Mondino</strong>'s graphically composed images are offbeat,<br />

sexy <strong>and</strong> subversive. But behind their seductive surface gloss lies another<br />

layer which is variously ironic, funny, or even sinister [2] .<br />

Most of <strong>Mondino</strong>’s pictures focus on the faces of models (See picture<br />

1).<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> has talent at fashion models features <strong>and</strong><br />

catching interesting faces.<br />

[1]http://www.douban.com/subject/1903925/<br />

[2]http://www.lumiere.com/fashion/96/01/mondino/interview.html


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Picture 1-Pictures by <strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong><br />

Through his photography, models moods <strong>and</strong> inspirits are expressed. In<br />

addition, <strong>Mondino</strong> is used to apply a very fashionable <strong>and</strong> bold technique to<br />

express the meaning of the pictures. Many critics regard him as a genius<br />

who has incredible imagination <strong>and</strong> creativity to capture every breath in<br />

fashion.<br />

<strong>Mondino</strong> as a composer, music is no doubt his favorite element to play with<br />

in the fashion images. As a signature of his shooting modes, electric guitar<br />

plays a crucial role. He is not the only one who has guitar in, but he is<br />

definitely the best one who put soul in the musical instrument. Browsing his<br />

images, guitar is everywhere (See picture 2). Even his favorite portrait is<br />

together with guitar (See cover page).<br />

Picture 2 <strong>Mondino</strong> <strong>and</strong> his guitars


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Different from other photographers who kept models posted for couple<br />

hours to attain aesthetic aims, <strong>Mondino</strong> obviously encourage high-tech to<br />

apply on the pictures. As once he accepted fashion magazine Lumière <strong>and</strong><br />

said “The idea was simply to counter the notion of supermodels. Honestly,<br />

we see them everywhere, <strong>and</strong> something has to be done about it. Because<br />

I couldn't do the project I had in mind (the mutilations) I went for the idea<br />

of super models, increasing the girls' thighs, shrinking their heads. The<br />

potential of the new technology is more than to just make people look<br />

better, it also allows you to do the inverse.” [3] <strong>Mondino</strong> applied digital<br />

adjustment on several super models, Imagine Shalom with a black eye,<br />

Nadja's throat slit, or Amber having lost all her hair. <strong>Mondino</strong>’s recent<br />

interest is to replicate <strong>and</strong> clone the bodies in pictures. But he has the<br />

problem with fashion editors who are reluctant to accept these<br />

manipulations.<br />

Shooting modes<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> preferred shot inside with very simple scene, like<br />

stairs, crashed rooms. He set up his own studio Tiziana Office in Paris.<br />

Recently he has shifted his focus from video direct to fashion photography.<br />

That’s why he chose Paris to reside <strong>and</strong> work.<br />

Customer Base<br />

Today, In addition to his photography, <strong>Mondino</strong> continues to be active with<br />

his film work for commercials <strong>and</strong> music videos, he has directed music<br />

videos for Björk, Brian Ferry, Sting, David Bowie, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez,<br />

Tom Waits <strong>and</strong> Prince. <strong>Mondino</strong> has also photographed the record covers<br />

<strong>and</strong> album packaging for the Marianne Faithfull albums Before The Poison<br />

(2005) <strong>and</strong> Easy Come, Easy Go (2008), not to mention numerous AD<br />

campaigns for well known fashion br<strong>and</strong>s.<br />

<strong>Mondino</strong> applied his innovation on many famed roles, including Brian Ferry,<br />

David Bowie, Boy George, Madonna, Prince, Vanessa Paradis <strong>and</strong> many<br />

others (see picture 3). Obviously they trust his high level qualification on<br />

image expressing, creativity of aesthetics, inventiveness of fashion<br />

popularity <strong>and</strong> of course also the dazzling success in his career life.


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

[3] <strong>Mondino</strong>’s interview with fashion magazine Lumière<br />

Picture 3 fame roles shot by <strong>Mondino</strong><br />

<strong>Mondino</strong> was in chief of many br<strong>and</strong>s’ collections photograph, such as<br />

Jitrois(2003-2004 season), <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier(1999-2007 season). <strong>Fashion</strong><br />

AD campaigns directed by <strong>Mondino</strong> own a high reputation in the fashion<br />

circle, glorious, elegant <strong>and</strong> brilliant. Campaigns for <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier,<br />

Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein <strong>Jean</strong>s, Dior J'adore for Dior, Opium for Yves<br />

Saint Laurent, L'Air du Temps for Nina Ricci were achieved fabulous. He<br />

also shot for The Face, Vogue <strong>and</strong> Glamour etc.<br />

Other photographic areas<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> also shot a lot for record coverings <strong>and</strong> magazines<br />

(see picture 4). Most of them are represented by a face or a half length<br />

figure.


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Books <strong>and</strong> publications<br />

Picture 4 Record covering <strong>and</strong> magazines<br />

DÉJÀ VU too much Guitar<br />

Eros<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>- <strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> has written three books so far including D ÉJÀ VU,<br />

Too much <strong>and</strong> Guitar Eros. D EJA V U is <strong>Mondino</strong>’s best selling book first<br />

published in 1999. This book introduced the 54-year-oldphotographer-<br />

cum-artdirector from Paris to the limelight, where he had previously put<br />

the greatest stars in the rock <strong>and</strong> pop world [4] .<br />

After his bestselling book Déja vu, Too much is published at equally<br />

fantastic images in 2003. His photographs altered the commercial<br />

strategies of the


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

[4] http://www.mbfala.com/publications/_20/<br />

rock, pop <strong>and</strong> fashion industry to some degree. Critics gave Too much a<br />

high reputation which was said “Too Much bears striking witness to the<br />

delight he takes in playing with zeitgeist expressions <strong>and</strong> to his boundless<br />

ingenuity. Technically brilliant, with an equally rich <strong>and</strong> scin-tillating mix of<br />

black humor, glamour, <strong>and</strong> bizarre erotic visions”, even M+B presents Too<br />

much as an essential source of inspiration for all those who by profession or<br />

by passion deal with photography, advertising, <strong>and</strong> life style [5].<br />

Guitar Eros is a masterpiece to have the music element in 2006. As we all<br />

know, <strong>Mondino</strong> originally started as a composer. No wonder, guitar has<br />

always been presented as a unique signature of <strong>Mondino</strong> fashion works. In<br />

his new book <strong>Mondino</strong> presents his guitar photographs created over the<br />

past twenty years as commissioned works or his own projects. They<br />

portray famous rock <strong>and</strong> pop musicians such as Mick Jagger, Madonna,<br />

Tom Waits, <strong>and</strong> Keith Richards; models <strong>and</strong> celebrities with guitars; <strong>and</strong><br />

numerous anonymous guitar players [6] . The shinny stars in these pictures<br />

was not the real stars, but the guitar. From this point, <strong>Mondino</strong> created<br />

stars who or what he wanted to be star.<br />

Most known <strong>and</strong> success factors<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> became to be known for the video “The Boys of<br />

Summer” for Don Henley which swept 4 categories in the 1985 MTV Video<br />

Music Awards in 1985. Cooperation with fame roles made him expensive<br />

<strong>and</strong> meanwhile as famous as the same. <strong>Mondino</strong> shot several notable music<br />

videos in black <strong>and</strong> white in a corporation with Pascal Lebègue , such as<br />

"Russians" for Sting <strong>and</strong> "Justify My Love" for Madonna. Shooting for big<br />

fashion br<strong>and</strong>s led him to fashion circle. Dior J'adore for Dior, Opium for<br />

Yves Saint Laurent, L'Air du Temps for Nina Ricci are all fabulous<br />

advertisement known for people.<br />

“<strong>Fashion</strong> <strong>and</strong> music are the two most influential things for me”, Once<br />

<strong>Mondino</strong> said, “Especially fashion, because fashion is meant to die every 3<br />

months. This doesn't allow you to dwell on it too long. It's a dying process,<br />

<strong>and</strong> this forces you to always move on to the next step.” [7] From the<br />

interview, besides high creative <strong>and</strong> unique photographs, always accepting<br />

new things can be also a factor of success. Fast move <strong>and</strong> innovation keep<br />

<strong>Mondino</strong> evergreen.<br />

[5]http://www.mbfala.com/publications/_19/<br />

[6] http://www.mbfala.com/publications/_18/


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

[7] <strong>Mondino</strong>’s interview with fashion magazine Lumière<br />

Chapter 2 Chosen customer: <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier<br />

In this chapter, how <strong>Jean</strong>- Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> as a fashion photographer<br />

interpreted his signature style to the br<strong>and</strong> image was analyzed <strong>and</strong> related<br />

campaigns were chosen to apply a critical view on how they worked out.<br />

<strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier is a French fashion br<strong>and</strong> named after talent French<br />

designer Gaultier himself. At his seventeen years old, Gaultier started to<br />

step in tailor. After working for Pierre Cardin <strong>and</strong> <strong>Jean</strong> Patou, <strong>Jean</strong> Paul<br />

Gaultier created his own fashion label. Gaultier always break free from the<br />

convention, the last thing he can bear is normal. His design is just like<br />

himself, aesthetic, unique, original. He created a lot of first, first time guys<br />

wear transparent skirts, first time underwear wore outside, also like<br />

Madonna’s infamous cone-shaped bra for the 1990 which gave him “enfant<br />

terrible” reputation. You always can feel a sense of fun from Gaultier’s<br />

design, like Gaultier was a bad boy who played with fashion. In addition to<br />

the garment, Gaultier did successfully to create a fragrance line which is<br />

well known for the signature torso-shaped bottles.<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>- Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> as a fashion photographer highly required<br />

aestheticism, uniqueness <strong>and</strong> originality in his pictures. I guess this creates<br />

a perfect connection for them to cooperate with each other. They influence<br />

each other. <strong>Mondino</strong> are good at capturing mood of figures in the pictures.<br />

He ensouls products with abundant figures around. Apparently,<br />

environment <strong>and</strong> atmosphere are equally important to achieve the desired<br />

effect.<br />

<strong>Jean</strong>-<strong>Baptiste</strong> <strong>Mondino</strong> was in chief of Gaultier’ collections photography<br />

from year 1999 to 2007. He also made a lot of campaigns for the fragrance<br />

line. The first campaign introduced below was <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier SS2003.


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Picture 5 <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier SS2003<br />

Models: MariaCarla Boscono, Charlie Weaving.<br />

In this season, Gaultier offered a powerful collection that was remarkable<br />

for the lightness <strong>and</strong> sensuality. Gaultier broke the free to express his<br />

unique style, like fluey big shaped hat, shinny coated h<strong>and</strong>bag <strong>and</strong> matador<br />

tights with Y-slipper. Which were really impressed. <strong>Mondino</strong> used the<br />

ancient wall <strong>and</strong> vintage flower pattern carpet as the background which<br />

served the ready-to-wear garment perfect. MariaCarla <strong>and</strong> Charlie as the<br />

shooting models have the classical blood. I supposed <strong>Mondino</strong> had used<br />

digital technology to make the entire campaign look like painted. Together<br />

with the multicolored light, <strong>Mondino</strong> brought you into a vintage luxurious<br />

dream. From this picture, one of his signatures - colour saturated was well<br />

expressed.


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Picture 6 <strong>Jean</strong> Paul Gaultier SS2004<br />

Model: Madeleine Bloomberg, Ivan De Pineda.<br />

Picture 6 shows the collection of SS2004. <strong>Mondino</strong> kept the aesthetic style<br />

in his pictures. The body replication in the pictures which is regarded as one<br />

of his signature is well applied.


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Picture 7 Gaultier fragrance<br />

Picture 7 is the fragrance advisement of Gaultier’s signature torso-shaped<br />

bottles. This is a really glorious campaign. The real bottle does not look as<br />

it is in the picture. <strong>Mondino</strong> made some adjustments on the bottles’ shape.<br />

That is Madonna’s infamous cone-shaped bra which is significant feature of<br />

Gaultier. It made the entire picture interesting. The model’s shoulder<br />

through the transparent bottle can be observed. That made people think<br />

how pure the fragrance is. The background behind the young elegant lady<br />

looks like wind. Together with model’s pose, it makes people start to<br />

imagine the pleasant smelling of the perfume. This advertisement is very<br />

attractive. It enhanced the value of the br<strong>and</strong>, both inspirit <strong>and</strong> money. It<br />

has strengthened the br<strong>and</strong> image <strong>and</strong> forced people to keep the classic<br />

Gaultier signature in mind. In addition, torso-shaped bottle became a<br />

classic icon of Gaultier, no wonder also the best sellers.


FASHION VISUAL COMMUNICATION<br />

Chapter 3 Discussion <strong>and</strong> conclusions<br />

Doubtless, <strong>Jean</strong>-Bapstite <strong>Mondino</strong> is one of the most reputable<br />

photographers in the worldwide. <strong>Mondino</strong>’s pictures are not only images.<br />

He tries to express the thoughts <strong>and</strong> stories behind. He explores emotions<br />

buried in the heard of the shooting models, elegant, insolent, lonely, sexy,<br />

aggressive, depressive, serious, pride etc.<br />

His successful video director experience makes <strong>Mondino</strong> better underst<strong>and</strong><br />

fashion <strong>and</strong> brings him a lot fresh air into the photos. <strong>Mondino</strong> always<br />

thought out of the box <strong>and</strong> has courage to do what other people scare to do.<br />

He was the first person to shoot black model. It was quite controversial in<br />

his time.<br />

I browsed all campaigns he made for big br<strong>and</strong>s. Still take Gaultier as an<br />

example, the previous ones look not so attractive. Backgrounds were<br />

simple <strong>and</strong> models’ poses were boring. What’s worse, I can’t read<br />

confidence in models’ faces when they wore these garments in the photos.<br />

In the start of 2003, his photos for Gaultier became fabulous. They always<br />

looked aesthetic <strong>and</strong> abundant. But I personally thought he achieved more<br />

success on advertisements for fragrance, whatever for Gaultier or Dior.<br />

When I saw the photos, I always wanted to buy the perfumes <strong>and</strong> imagined<br />

the feeling I own it.<br />

People who think the photographers should make very pure realistic image<br />

might not accept <strong>Mondino</strong>’s masterpieces. He is a digital technology<br />

advocator. His pictures might not natural, but they are superrealism, funny,<br />

<strong>and</strong> aesthetic after the high tech application. Hope <strong>Jean</strong>-Bapstite create<br />

more masterpiece in his way to pursuit constant innovation <strong>and</strong> high<br />

sensivity for zeitgeist in future.

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