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ENGLISH EDITION/DECEMBER 2012<br />

SEE MUSE LIVE IN<br />

TALLINN DECEMBER 11!<br />

WWW.BALTICGUIDE.EE<br />

Your Your free free guide guide to to Estonia Estonia<br />

Christmas hristmas<br />

in Estonia<br />

Restaurants /Culture / Shopping / Getting Around /History<br />

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Eye doctor or optometrist appointments available daily<br />

PEREOPTIKA & SÄÄSTUOPTIKA – WW-Passaaz Aia 3/Vana Viru 10, Tallinn<br />

(tel. 6616007 gsm +372 56820045)<br />

VIIMSI SPA OPTIKA – Randvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Tallinn<br />

(tel. 6011570 gsm +372 56880957)<br />

STOCK OPTIKA - Tartu mnt 18 (tel. 6620240 gsm+372 56820044)<br />

across from Stockmann<br />

PLUSS-MIINUS OPTIKA – Narva mnt. 11D, Tallinn (tel. 6261336)<br />

gsm +372 5682004 (entrance through the courtyard)<br />

Eye doctors: Galina Beloussova and Juta Jask, service in Finnish and English<br />

www.optiline.ee<br />

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN<br />

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Read articles online at<br />

www.balticguide.ee


ENGLISH EDITION/MAY 2012<br />

Visit Estonia’s<br />

Northeast Coast<br />

Interview: Historian<br />

Andres Toode<br />

Tallinn’s TV Tower<br />

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Pikk St.<br />

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ENGLISH EDITION/APRIL 2012<br />

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THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 editorial<br />

5<br />

<strong>The</strong> holidays<br />

are truly a<br />

magical time<br />

in Estonia. This season gives you a glimpse into the<br />

old peasant traditions associated with this time of<br />

year. According to the Estonian folk calendar, the<br />

Christmas season begins on December 21, with St.<br />

Thomas Day, and ends on January 6, <strong>The</strong> Epiphany.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Christmas season was traditionally celebrated<br />

from December 25-27, and the most important<br />

celebration was Christmas Eve, December 24. This<br />

still continues today.<br />

<strong>The</strong> word Jõulud, meaning Christmas in Estonian,<br />

comes from the old Scandinavian word Jul. <strong>The</strong><br />

association of Christmas with Jesus Christ is relatively<br />

recent. Christmas marked the Winter Solstice, the<br />

shortest day and the longest night. It reflected<br />

the customs and traditions of the peasants, where<br />

certain tasks had to be performed during this<br />

period, and other tasks were banned. For example,<br />

milling, spinning, and quilling were banned, as it was<br />

thought that they were too noisy and would disturb<br />

the “good spirits.”<br />

Pigs were slaughtered and homemade ale and<br />

mead were brewed. <strong>The</strong> pork was served as a roast<br />

with sauerkraut. Blood sausages and sült (headchee-<br />

DECEMBER 2012<br />

Managing Director: Jane Konga<br />

Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp<br />

kristina@balticguide.ee<br />

Design: Kristi Möls<br />

Photography: Andrei Chertkov<br />

Old and new traditions<br />

se) were prepared, and bread was made. <strong>The</strong>se culinary<br />

traditions still continue today. Christmas straw<br />

would be brought into the house, and Christmas<br />

crowns made.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Christmas tree is also a recent tradition,<br />

introduced by the <strong>Baltic</strong> German nobility in the<br />

middle of the 19th century. <strong>The</strong> manor house lords<br />

would throw Christmas parties for the servants and<br />

their families. <strong>The</strong> tree would be decorated with toys,<br />

candies, and candles.<br />

During the Soviet Period, Christmas was banned.<br />

New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day were the only official<br />

holidays during this period. However, Christmas<br />

continued to be celebrated unofficially with family<br />

meals in the home on Christmas Eve, and the lighting<br />

of candles on the graves of family members. At<br />

the end of the Soviet period, Christmas trees began<br />

to appear in homes once again.<br />

On December 24, the President of Estonia declares<br />

peace, a 350-year-old tradition that still continues<br />

today.<br />

Happy Holidays!<br />

Kristina Lupp<br />

Editor-in chief<br />

01 GLAMOUR, CABARET STYLE<br />

See pop stars Gerli Padar and Tanja Mihhailovat starring in the Tartu Vanemuise <strong>The</strong>atre’s<br />

Cabaret musical. This glamorous musical premiered at the end of October. In Tallinn you<br />

can see the Cabaret on December 15, and January 4, at the Nokia Concert Hall.<br />

02 VIENNESE WALTZES IN TALLINN<br />

<strong>The</strong> famous Johan Strauss Orchestra from Vienna will be performing at the Russian<br />

Cultural Centre in Tallinn on December 12. Peter Guth will conduct the orchestra. <strong>The</strong> program<br />

will include classical favourites, and of course, waltzes. Monika Mosser will perform<br />

a solo.<br />

03 CHINESE CIRCUS PRINCESSES<br />

<strong>The</strong> Chinese circus will visit Tallinn in December. You can see these skilled performers show off their traditions in one of<br />

their four performances: December 9 at the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn, December 10 at the Vanemuise Concert Hall in Tartu,<br />

December 11 at the Rugadiv Cultural House in Narva, and December 12 at the Pärnu Concert Hall.<br />

04 ENCHANTING BALLET<br />

December 25 brings the Moscow City Ballet to the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn to perform Pjotr Tšaikovski’s classic ballet, Swan<br />

Lake. Tickets to this world renowned performance are available from Piletilevi ticket kiosks.<br />

05 BYGONE CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS<br />

From December 14-16, the Tallinn Open Air Museum will have a traditional Christmas village. At the village, visitors can<br />

see traditional Estonian Christmas customs. At the Open Air Museum’s post office, taste Christmas treats, and find items to<br />

fill Santa’s bag with, at the Christmas market.<br />

Pick up your free copy at:<br />

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel,<br />

Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel,<br />

Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel,<br />

Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa<br />

Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton<br />

Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic<br />

Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel,<br />

Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson<br />

Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park<br />

Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos<br />

Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni<br />

Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel,<br />

Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von<br />

Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss<br />

Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market,<br />

Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information,<br />

Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus<br />

Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita<br />

Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O<br />

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika<br />

Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU<br />

Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand<br />

Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking,<br />

Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel,<br />

London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu<br />

Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN<br />

ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel,<br />

Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information,<br />

Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare<br />

Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel<br />

Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN<br />

ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva<br />

Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff<br />

Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa <strong>The</strong>resa,<br />

Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House<br />

Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn,<br />

Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers<br />

Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, <strong>The</strong> Blue<br />

Cow Backpackers Hostel, <strong>The</strong> Naughty Squirrel<br />

Backpackers Hostel<br />

Contents<br />

5 editorial 6-7 transport 8 Christmas events 10 -11 restaurants<br />

12-13 shopping 14 children's activities 16-17outside of Tallinn 18 beauty<br />

19 museums 20 -21 nightlife g 22 history y<br />

12-13<br />

shopping<br />

Holiday shopping guide<br />

Your CComments<br />

ABOUT ESTONIA<br />

Area: 45,227 km2.<br />

Population: about 1,350,000.<br />

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.<br />

Independence: 24 February, 1918,<br />

Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.<br />

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C,<br />

February -9°C.<br />

Time zone: GMT +2<br />

Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the<br />

mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.<br />

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious,<br />

30 % Lutheran,<br />

28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.<br />

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club<br />

and American Express are widely accepted.<br />

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz,<br />

European (Type C) plug.<br />

10-11<br />

restaurants<br />

r<br />

MEKK M<br />

Kuldse K Notsu Kõrts<br />

Liisu L Juures<br />

Eesti E Söögituba<br />

NOP N<br />

Talu T Kõrts<br />

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our<br />

content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to:<br />

kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25,<br />

10415, Tallinn.<br />

Photo: Andrei Chertkov<br />

Tallinn Christmas Market in the Town<br />

Hall Square. Story on page 8-9<br />

18<br />

beauty<br />

Winter haircare<br />

Contact Information<br />

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,<br />

tel +372 611 77 60<br />

e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee<br />

Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen<br />

tel +372 58 50 2472<br />

Follow us on


Free shot of<br />

liqueur<br />

when you order<br />

a schnitzel.<br />

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New location:<br />

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town<br />

��������������������������������������������������<br />

������������������������������������������������������������������<br />

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD<br />

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����������������<br />

6 THE<br />

BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

1 2<br />

1 2<br />

KOPLI<br />

ROCCA<br />

AL MARE<br />

PELGU-<br />

RANNA<br />

TICKETS AND ROUTES MERIMETSA<br />

Tallinn city transportation tickets can<br />

be purchased in advance from kiosks<br />

or directly from the driver. One hour,<br />

three-day and five-day tickets are<br />

available. Tickets must be validated at<br />

the beginning of the journey. Persons<br />

travelling without a ticket are subject<br />

to a 40€ fine.<br />

Further information on routes and<br />

timetables:<br />

http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/<br />

TALLINN CITY TOUR<br />

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker<br />

bus. Simultaneous translation in 10<br />

different languages.<br />

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h<br />

on three different lines.<br />

KOPLI<br />

■ Transport<br />

KALAMAJA<br />

PELGU-<br />

LINN<br />

MERIMETSA<br />

PELGULINN<br />

RAILWAY<br />

STATION<br />

OLD TOWN<br />

■ Customs Regulations<br />

Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited<br />

amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.<br />

KALAMAJA<br />

12<br />

PORT<br />

VEERENNI<br />

ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH<br />

WARNINGS.<br />

IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:<br />

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G<br />

OF LOOSE TOBACCO<br />

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry<br />

up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.<br />

■ Airport and Port Transfers<br />

Getting to the port:<br />

<strong>The</strong> distance between the Viru<br />

Shopping Centre and the port<br />

is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get<br />

you there, and pass by the airport<br />

as well. <strong>The</strong> Mõigu Bus Line<br />

also passes through the port.<br />

For more information and timetables<br />

visit: http://soiduplaan.<br />

tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab.<br />

<strong>The</strong> name of the Viru Shopping<br />

Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.<br />

Tickets are available on the bus<br />

for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.<br />

11 VIRU<br />

OLD TOWN 6<br />

13<br />

AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K<br />

This is the best way to travel between the airport and the<br />

city centre. <strong>The</strong>se blue buses are easily recognised with<br />

the airplane ticket image on the outside. <strong>The</strong>re is space<br />

for luggage. <strong>The</strong> bus stops at various hotels, main attractions<br />

and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2€. www.hansabuss.ee,<br />

http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus<br />

5<br />

10<br />

3 4<br />

TONDI<br />

Free Bus from the Port<br />

<strong>The</strong> Viking Line offers a free<br />

shuttle service to and from the<br />

city. <strong>The</strong> name of the bus stop<br />

is Mere puiestee, opposite the<br />

Viru Shopping Centre. <strong>The</strong> bus<br />

departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket<br />

has a free bus that also<br />

passes through the port terminals<br />

everyday between 10–17. Please<br />

consult the website for departure<br />

times: www.prismamarket.ee/<br />

prismabuss.php?lang=fin<br />

tram routes<br />

A, B<br />

terminals<br />

9<br />

7<br />

4<br />

14<br />

VEERENNI<br />

KADRIORG<br />

SIKUPILLI<br />

15<br />

3<br />

getting<br />

airport<br />

PORT<br />

BUS<br />

STATION<br />

8D<br />

terminal<br />

2<br />

16<br />

PIRITA<br />

LASNAMÄE<br />

KADRIORG<br />

SIKUPILLI<br />

2 4<br />

ÜLEMISTE<br />

17<br />

1 90K<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Red Line - City Centre<br />

Green Line - Pirita<br />

Blue Line - Rocca al Mare<br />

Tour routes last approximately<br />

one hour. All services begin at<br />

Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.<br />

www.citytour.ee<br />

■ BY BUS:<br />

Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com ■ BY TRAIN:<br />

Tallinn Central Bus Station<br />

(Tallinna Autobussijaam)<br />

Lastekodu 46, Tallinn<br />

www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee<br />

From the bus station to the city:<br />

Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee<br />

Linda Line Express -<br />

www.lindaline.ee<br />

TO/FROM STOCKHOLM<br />

Train Station (Balti jaam)<br />

Toompuistee 37, Tallinn<br />

From the train station to the city:<br />

tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute<br />

walk to the Old Town<br />

tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com<br />

www.edel.ee<br />

Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee<br />

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG www.gorail.ee<br />

Hansabuss Business Line –<br />

www.businessline.ee<br />

St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com<br />

Lux Express –<br />

■ BY AIR:<br />

www.luxexpress.eu<br />

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport<br />

Temptrans –<br />

www.temptrans.ee<br />

(Lennujaam)<br />

Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn<br />

■ BY SEA:<br />

From the airport to the city: bus<br />

no. 2, no. 90K<br />

From the Port of Tallinn to the<br />

www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng<br />

city/airport: bus no. 2<br />

FAST CLASS By Copterline –<br />

TO/FROM HELSINKI<br />

www.copterline.ee Travel<br />

between Tallinn and Helsinki City<br />

Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee<br />

Centres, from the Port.<br />

3<br />

4<br />

113 3<br />

24<br />

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without<br />

permission. Live animals and plants, as well as<br />

rare animal and plant species and also require special<br />

permission. Firearms and other weapons are<br />

prohibited.<br />

Pirated materials are prohibited.<br />

Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller:<br />

http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089<br />

Getting to the Airport<br />

<strong>The</strong> distance between the Viru Shopping<br />

Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. <strong>The</strong><br />

no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule<br />

can be found at http://soiduplaan.<br />

tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. <strong>The</strong> name of the Viru<br />

Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa<br />

and the airport stop is called Lennujaam.<br />

Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or<br />

from R-kiosks for 1€. <strong>The</strong> no 90K bus operates<br />

between Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport<br />

and centrally located Tallinn hotels. It runs<br />

from 7:20am until 6:40pm every 20 min<br />

daily. A one-way ticket costs 2€.


around THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 20127<br />

��Hire a car<br />

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city<br />

of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside<br />

and explore small towns. If you are arriving by<br />

plane, your most convenient option is to use one of<br />

the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:<br />

Budget – www.budget.ee<br />

Europcar – www.europcar.ee<br />

Hertz – www.hertz.ee<br />

National – www.europcar.ee<br />

Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are many other companies to use in Tallinn,<br />

some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option<br />

to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information<br />

on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this<br />

guide or visit www.mnt.ee.<br />

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee<br />

Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee<br />

Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee<br />

Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee<br />

Useful Information<br />

No international driver’s license required.<br />

It is important for drivers to follow the<br />

following regulations:<br />

� Blood alcohol level must be 0.<br />

� Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections<br />

and cyclists.<br />

� <strong>The</strong> speed limit in towns is usually 50 km /<br />

h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds<br />

will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the<br />

speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110<br />

km / h, but only in summer.<br />

PUHELINNUMEROT: Important Phone Numbers: POLIISI POLICE 110, 110, PELASTUSTOIMI EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE AUTOABI 1888 (24 h) H).<br />

USEFUL VOCABULARY<br />

<strong>The</strong> car has broken down . . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Auto läks katki<br />

<strong>The</strong> car has run out of petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bensiin sai otsa<br />

Here is an accident. .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Siin on avarii<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a block in the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teel on ummik<br />

Where is the car repair?. .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?<br />

<strong>The</strong> first 15 minutes of parking are free when<br />

using a parking clock. This does not apply in<br />

parking lots.<br />

Parking tickets can be purchased from a<br />

kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must<br />

state the year, month, day, hour, and minute<br />

of purchase.<br />

Shopping centres are equipped with an<br />

automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn,<br />

most parking lots are paid.<br />

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking<br />

may result in a fine of 20€. If the parked<br />

car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64€,<br />

with the possibility of it being towed. In this<br />

case, please contact the city police 14410.<br />

���Tallinn Taxis<br />

��Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi<br />

company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information<br />

and photo.<br />

��For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel<br />

and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost<br />

about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount<br />

may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares,<br />

please visit: www.taksod.net<br />

�������������<br />

����������<br />

����<br />

���<br />

����<br />

��It pays to be careful when choosing<br />

a taxi, because some companies<br />

have much higher rates than others.<br />

Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear<br />

window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. <strong>The</strong><br />

minimum fee must be displayed on the price<br />

list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing<br />

rate. <strong>The</strong> cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter<br />

rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.<br />

Parking in Tallinn<br />

�����������<br />

�����������<br />

��������<br />

�����<br />

����������<br />

� All cars must carry a warning triangle,<br />

wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher.<br />

Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest<br />

when stopped at night.<br />

� In case of collision, and in the event of injury,<br />

it is advisable to call the police. Insurance<br />

documents and driver information should<br />

be exchanged.<br />

� Parking and speeding fines will still be<br />

charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay<br />

fines on time to avoid penalty.<br />

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you<br />

are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple<br />

in value.<br />

Please read the signs carefully.<br />

<strong>The</strong> first 15 minutes are free at:<br />

� Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€<br />

Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.<br />

Free on Sundays.<br />

� City Centre 15 min / 0,58€<br />

Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.<br />

Free on Sundays.<br />

� Old Town 15 min / 1,15€<br />

Payment required 24h, 7 days.<br />

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver<br />

does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If<br />

you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make<br />

note of the car registration number, date of<br />

journey, and the name of the taxi company.<br />

����� ������<br />

������<br />

�����������<br />

����������<br />

�����������<br />

�����������<br />

���������<br />

�� If you feel that you have been<br />

cheated, you may send complaints to:<br />

tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or <strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong><br />

<strong>Guide</strong>: editorial@balticguide.ee.<br />

Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.<br />

����������� ��From the airport to the city centre,<br />

a taxi will cost between 7-10€<br />

with the following taxi companies:<br />

Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink<br />

Takso. <strong>The</strong>se three taxi companies have a<br />

contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be<br />

waiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue.<br />

INDIAN RESTAURANT<br />

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala,<br />

Thai and European dishes!<br />

<strong>The</strong> restaurant's owner is from Kerala in<br />

Southern India.<br />

Excellent prices<br />

Irish coffee 4����Vodka 2€<br />

Vana-Tallinn 2����Beer 2.50€<br />

House Wine 2.90����Appetisers 2€<br />

Grilled Salmon 9.90����Grilled Duck Fillet 11€<br />

Pepper Steak 11����South Indian chicken curry 7€<br />

Rüütli 18, Tallinn<br />

Tel. 742 2828<br />

ahadeli.tallinn@gmail.com<br />

www.tbilisi.ee<br />

Restaurant/Pub<br />

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square<br />

Open Everyday 11-23<br />

Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)<br />

Voorimehe<br />

Pikk<br />

Kinga<br />

Dunkri<br />

Kullassepa<br />

Mündi<br />

Saiakang<br />

Town Hall<br />

Square<br />

Raekoja<br />

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och<br />

sista när man beger sig till havs!<br />

<strong>The</strong> first place to come when You arrive and the<br />

last place to visit before leaving!<br />

Massor av härliga<br />

smakupplevelser!<br />

Taste one of<br />

our delicious<br />

dishes!<br />

Öppet/Open:<br />

varje dag/every day 8-19.<br />

Köket öppet från kl/<br />

<strong>The</strong> kitchen open from 8.<br />

Vanaturu<br />

kael<br />

Apteegi<br />

Open: Mon - Wed 12- 23, Thu - Sat 12 - 01, Sun 12 - 23<br />

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum<br />

1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.<br />

Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee,<br />

www.seitsemerd.ee<br />

Vene<br />

Viru<br />

Levande musik varje dag/<br />

Live music every day 12-15


8<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

Christmas in Tallinn<br />

<strong>The</strong> holidays are a magical time in Estonia, especially in the capital city. Enjoy festive concerts, traditional<br />

Christmas markets, delicious Estonian Christmas food, and of course a glass or two of mulled wine!<br />

TOP JAZZ<br />

performer in Tallinn<br />

In December, Grammy winner<br />

Kurt Elling, together with the<br />

Estonian Dream Big Band will<br />

perform in Tallinn.<br />

Kurt Elling has fascinated listeners<br />

worldwide, as one of the<br />

top male singers in jazz. It was<br />

only last year that Elling performed<br />

in Finland, for a show that<br />

sold quickly.<br />

Elling’s style is clean and unique.<br />

His trademark is his masterful<br />

use of his baritone voice over<br />

four octaves. In addition to the<br />

use of his voice, Ellington’s per-<br />

formances are very enjoyable. He<br />

certainly knows how to hold the<br />

attention of the crowd. His 2009<br />

album, Dedicated To You won a<br />

Grammy.<br />

In Tallinn, he will perform<br />

with the Estonian Dream Big<br />

Band, which is made up of some<br />

of Estonia’s best jazz musicians.<br />

Tickets start at 25€, and are<br />

available from Ticketpro and Piletilevi.<br />

■<br />

Kurt Elling and the Estonian<br />

Dream Big Band, December 12<br />

Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn B2.<br />

Gingerbread!<br />

All the best gingerbread will<br />

be on display at the Gingerbread<br />

Mania exhibit. Since 2006, the<br />

gingerbread exhibit tempts all<br />

kinds of creative minds to take<br />

part, like designers and architects.<br />

Up to now, close to 360 Estonian<br />

artists have taken part. Some<br />

international artists have also<br />

taken part.<br />

This year’s theme is the Olympics.<br />

To find out what that means,<br />

Tallinn’s traditional<br />

Christmas market<br />

<strong>The</strong> Old Town’s Christmas market<br />

opened on November 24th.<br />

<strong>The</strong> square fills with little wooden<br />

houses, where you can buy anything<br />

from Estonian handicrafts to<br />

delicious hot food. Like every year,<br />

during the day Santa Claus and his<br />

reindeer will be at the market, as<br />

well as Estonia’s most beautiful<br />

tree, in the centre of it all. A tree<br />

has been placed in the middle of<br />

the square since 1441, and accor-<br />

you will have to visit the show! <strong>The</strong><br />

show is open daily 11.00-18.00. On<br />

Christmas Eve, and December 31,<br />

the exhibit is open from 11.00-<br />

15.00. Christmas Day, and January<br />

1, the exhibit is closed. ■<br />

PiparkoogiMaania (Gingerbread<br />

Mania), 18.12.2012-<br />

8.1.2012. Tallinn Design and<br />

Architecture Gallery. (Tallinna<br />

Disaini- ja Arhitektuurigalerii),<br />

Pärnu mnt. 6, Tallinn B2.<br />

ding to legend, it is Europes oldest<br />

Christmas tree.<br />

You can taste traditional Estonian<br />

Christmas food, like blood<br />

sausage and sauerkraut, or enjoy a<br />

cup of mulled wine. <strong>The</strong>re is even<br />

a petting zoo for the children, and<br />

pony rides.<br />

On some of the warmer days<br />

there will dance performances,<br />

from Irish to Latin. An elf disco,<br />

for elves of any age, will take place<br />

Tallinn is famous for its Christmas<br />

market in the Town Hall<br />

Square, but did you know there<br />

is another market in town?<br />

Two different Christmas markets<br />

are open at the Lootsi Centre<br />

and at Kochi Aidad. At Kochi<br />

Aidad, the market is open until the<br />

end of December, and the Lootsi<br />

Centre market, until January 6.<br />

Browse through different kinds of<br />

handicrafts, foods, and other great<br />

Saturday, December 22. Don’t forget<br />

your elf hat!<br />

<strong>The</strong> first advent candle will be<br />

lit Sunday, December 2, at 14.00.<br />

Christmas peace will be declared<br />

at 12.00 on Christmas Eve.<br />

Events at the Christmas market<br />

take place Fridays to Sundays. ■<br />

Jõuluturg (Christmas Market)<br />

Tallinn Town Hall Square<br />

24.11.2012- 8.1.2013, 10.00-19.00<br />

Other Christmas Markets<br />

presents to put under un u un u un u un u un u un u un uun u n de d de d de d de d de dde d de d de d dde d de d dde d e r<br />

under the tree. Both Bo B Bo BBo B BBo B o t th t th tth t th t th t th tth t th tth t h<br />

Both Kochi<br />

Aidad and the<br />

Lootsi Centre<br />

are located<br />

near Tallinn’s D<br />

Terminal at the Port. ■<br />

Kochi Aidad Christmas Market,<br />

15.11- 31.12<br />

Lootsi Christmas Market,<br />

23.11- 6.1.2013


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 9<br />

A Christmas Village<br />

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />

<strong>The</strong> Estonian Open Air Museum<br />

gives a good insight into rural<br />

Estonian life, no matter what the<br />

season. It is a peaceful place; the<br />

old barns and residential buildings<br />

shake off their winter sleep for a<br />

while and come alive with stories<br />

from times gone by. This year’s<br />

theme is Christmas in the tumult<br />

of history.<br />

Walk around the huge area<br />

embedded in a natural setting.<br />

This year's theme<br />

is Christmas in the<br />

tumult of history<br />

Make short stops in the farmhouses<br />

from various regions in Estonia.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is also a village shop, a<br />

school, and chapel.<br />

In the farmhouses, the families<br />

will tell their stories, each with<br />

some significance to Estonian history.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Köstriaseme Farm brings<br />

you back to 1895. <strong>The</strong> owner has<br />

just paid the last taxes to the<br />

manor and is now a free man.<br />

At the Pulga Farm, the family<br />

gathers to read about relatives<br />

who moved to Russia in the 1880s,<br />

looking for a better life.<br />

Folks at the Härjapea Farm are<br />

veterans from the Estonian War of<br />

Independence in the early 1920s.<br />

At the Kuie School, according<br />

to tsarist regulations, Russian rep-<br />

<strong>The</strong> Estonian Open Air<br />

Museum is open all year.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Christmas Village is open<br />

December 14-16, 11.00-16.00.<br />

Concerts in the Sutlepa Chapel:<br />

December 15<br />

12.00 and 14:00 - Female Choir,<br />

National Library of Estonia<br />

13.00 and 15.00 - Mixed Choir, Tallinn<br />

German Gymnasium<br />

December 16<br />

12.00 and 14.00 - Chamber Choir of<br />

the Estonian Academy of Arts<br />

13.00 - Children’s Choir<br />

of Nõmme Youth Club<br />

15.00 - Christmas prayer<br />

Transportation<br />

Buses 21 & 21B from the main <strong>Baltic</strong><br />

railway station. Bus 22, or trolley bus<br />

6 & 7. Get off at the Zoo stop, 15<br />

minute walk along the seaside road.<br />

City Tour – blue line buses.<br />

laces the teaching of the Estonian<br />

language, but good old Christmas<br />

songs are still sung in Estonian.<br />

No matter which farm or building<br />

you visit, you will enjoy the<br />

quiet and holy Christmas spirit,<br />

which has gathered families in<br />

troubled times.<br />

A visit to the museum can be<br />

rounded off by traditional Christmas<br />

meals at the Kolu Inn, and a<br />

visit to the village shop. ■<br />

Free bus with the sign “Eesti<br />

Vabaõhumuuseum/ Open Air<br />

Museum” from Sokos Hotel Viru, Viru<br />

väljak 4) at 11.00, 12:30 and 14.00.<br />

Return at 13.15, 14.45 and 16:15. Stop<br />

at Kristiine Shopping Centre on the<br />

way back.<br />

Tallink, <strong>The</strong> Rocca al Mare Shopping<br />

Center and the Estonian Open Air<br />

Museum have prepared a tour offer,<br />

including a variety of discounts.<br />

Estonian Open Air Museum,<br />

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn<br />

www.evm.ee<br />

Enjoy old fashioned Christmas<br />

traditions in the Christmas<br />

Village at the <strong>The</strong> Estonian<br />

Open Air Museum.<br />

SOLARIS<br />

Christmas Park<br />

Starting from<br />

December 2nd, a<br />

Christmas Park<br />

will open on the<br />

5th floor of the<br />

Solaris Centre.<br />

Bring the kids to<br />

see two Christmas<br />

goats, and of<br />

course Santa Clause!<br />

Have a treat at<br />

Komeet Café’s<br />

Christmas Café.<br />

Open Monday to<br />

Friday 12.00-21.00,<br />

Saturday – Sunday<br />

11.00 – 21.00.<br />

Jazzy Christmas<br />

<strong>The</strong> Christmas Jazz Festival 2012<br />

(Jõulujazz) brings top musicians<br />

from the United States, Korea,<br />

Chile, France, Germany, Sweden,<br />

and Finland to Tallinn from<br />

November 29th to December<br />

10th. Great concerts will be held<br />

at churches, clubs, and concert<br />

halls throughout the city. Tickets<br />

and information: www.jazzkaar.ee<br />

5 Dec 19:00 - Jacob Karlzon 3, Kumu<br />

Auditorium<br />

6 Dec 19:00 - Anders Jormin, Karin<br />

Nelson & Jonas Simonson, Tallinn<br />

Jaani Church<br />

7 Dec 19:00 - Rebecca Kontus<br />

Quintet, St Mary's Cathedral (Tallinna<br />

Toomkirik)<br />

8 Dec 20:00 - Argo Vals & band, Von<br />

Krahl <strong>The</strong>ater<br />

9 Dec 17:00 - Tõnis Mägi, Liidia<br />

Mägi, Mirt Mägi, radio singing<br />

studio children cond. Kadri Hunt &<br />

Siim Aimla Band, Tallinn Jaani Church<br />

9 Dec 19:00 - Tigran Hamasyan,<br />

Kumu Auditorium


10 restaurants<br />

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />

Tallinn is quickly becoming a<br />

food destination, with restaurants<br />

offering international cuisines.<br />

But let’s not forget about Estonian<br />

food. Traditional Estonian food<br />

is based on seasonal availability.<br />

As far as Estonian Christmas<br />

food goes, there is nothing more<br />

seasonal than blood sausage. You<br />

know the holidays are just around<br />

the corner when you start seeing<br />

blood sausage at the grocery stores.<br />

Visit one of Tallinn’s many<br />

Estonian restaurants to try some<br />

seasonal dishes.<br />

Taste Test:<br />

BEER<br />

Name<br />

Producer<br />

Alcohol %<br />

Points<br />

Saku<br />

Pühadeporter<br />

Saku<br />

Õlletehas<br />

6,9<br />

94<br />

ESTONIAN CULINARY<br />

CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS<br />

GB Wild Dark<br />

Viru Õlu<br />

5,4<br />

89<br />

Jõuluporter<br />

A. Le Coq<br />

6,5<br />

83<br />

Jõulusokk<br />

Viru Õlu<br />

6,0<br />

73<br />

Jõululegend<br />

Puls<br />

4.5<br />

71<br />

83<br />

Paras<br />

virolainen<br />

13 13 94 7<br />

Where to taste holiday foods in Tallinn<br />

MEKK offers a Christmas menu<br />

inspired by ESTONIAN TRADITIONS<br />

Chef Rene Uusmees can often be<br />

seen in the MEKK dining room<br />

talking to customers. He bases his<br />

menus on seasonal ingredients<br />

and dishes inspired by Estonian<br />

culinary traditions. This holiday<br />

season you can enjoy a fourcourse<br />

Estonian Christmas menu<br />

for 30€.<br />

To start, choose between a fish<br />

course or a meat course. Both<br />

dishes come with a selection of<br />

five types of fish or meat, prepared<br />

in different ways. “When<br />

Estonians sit down to eat their<br />

Christmas meal, everything is on<br />

the table. I wanted to express this<br />

in the appetiser by offering small<br />

portions and a little bit of everyt-<br />

<strong>The</strong> Estonian Christmas inspired fish appetiser at MEKK.<br />

hing,” explains Uusmees. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

dishes have a modern look, but<br />

the familiar flavours remain the<br />

same. For example, the head cheese<br />

(a jellied meat, typically found<br />

on the Christmas dinner table) is<br />

served with pickled vegetables and<br />

sauerkraut.<br />

For the main course, the chef<br />

offers a choice between baked<br />

goose fillet, smoked beef fillet, or<br />

braised wild boar. He uses modern<br />

cooking techniques to ensure that<br />

the meat is cooked tenderly, a<br />

luxury that Estonians would not<br />

have had 100 years ago. Uusmees<br />

takes advantage of the wonderful<br />

seasonal produce of Estonia, using<br />

root vegetables like parsnips, bee-<br />

troot, and Jerusalem artichokes to<br />

add colour and different textures<br />

to the plate.<br />

Finish off the meal with dessert<br />

and petit fours. For dessert, choose<br />

between the white chocolate<br />

cheesecake or a Christmas pudding<br />

with dried fruits and caramel<br />

sauce. “At Christmas, Estonians<br />

don’t generally eat cakes. After<br />

a filling meal, dried fruits, citrus<br />

fruits like mandarin oranges, and<br />

small chocolates are scattered on<br />

the table. <strong>The</strong>se two desserts reflect<br />

that tradition. ■<br />

Location<br />

Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

www.mekk.ee<br />

Estonian Holiday<br />

Beers 2012<br />

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />

Every winter, beer producers in Estonia release darker,<br />

and stronger beers. At the recent Tallinn FoodFest, visitors<br />

were able to sample this year’s offerings, and GB<br />

Wild Dark was chosen as a favourite. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong><br />

decided to hold a tasting of their own to see how the<br />

beers stacked up.<br />

What the experts say<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> asked Helsinki beer expert Heikki<br />

Kähkönen Estonia’s beers. This is what he had to say:<br />

Ed<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts<br />

(Golden Piglet Inn)<br />

On a cold winter’s night, step into<br />

this cosy little inn in the heart of<br />

Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse<br />

Notsu Kõrts, they offer a Christmas<br />

menu, so you can try the food<br />

without putting in all of the work<br />

that goes into its preparation.<br />

I visited the restaurant back in<br />

November, when the Christmas<br />

menu had not been quite finished,<br />

but the waitress assured me that<br />

they would offer blood sausage,<br />

and their very popular gingerbread<br />

cake.<br />

To satisfy my curiosity in<br />

the meantime, I opted for the<br />

sausage feast. And what a feast<br />

it was! <strong>The</strong>re were five different<br />

kinds of sausages, including blood<br />

1. A. Le Coq Jõuluporter<br />

- A balanced and warming beer for winter.<br />

2. Saku Pühadeporter White Chocolate<br />

- A cocoa scented dessert beer.<br />

3. GB Wild Dark<br />

- Delicate and fruity winter beer.<br />

4. Puls Jõululegend<br />

- Pale and herby<br />

5. Joulusõkk<br />

- Pairs well with sausages.<br />

sausages that came served with<br />

sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and<br />

mustard. <strong>The</strong> waitress warned us<br />

that the mustard was spicy, and<br />

she was not lying.<br />

<strong>The</strong> homemade cheese had<br />

also come very highly recommended,<br />

however the sausage feast<br />

shared between two people was<br />

plenty. <strong>The</strong> cheese was infused<br />

with whole cumin seeds and was<br />

served with lingonberry jam. To<br />

drink, try a pint of the house ale. ■<br />

Location<br />

Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town H1<br />

hotelstpetersbourg.com/kuldse-notsukorts.html<br />

CONCLUSION<br />

All five beers had a relatively modest taste. It seemed that<br />

most of the holiday beers were very similar, with only subtle<br />

nuances.


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 restaurants<br />

11<br />

Liisu Juures<br />

It doesn’t get more central than<br />

a meal at Liisu's in the Town Hall<br />

Square. Located in a warm and<br />

inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old<br />

Town, this is the place to come<br />

for good food, and good Estonian<br />

hospitality.<br />

To start, try the fried and<br />

marinated herring, served with<br />

rye bread and cucumber salad, or<br />

the mushroom salad, with potato<br />

and bacon. If you want to try<br />

Estonian Christmas food, look<br />

for blood sausage and roasted<br />

pork. As a main, the selection of<br />

sausages may seem daunting, but<br />

the sausages themselves are very<br />

small, allowing a proper sampling<br />

of three different kinds. Inclu-<br />

ded on the platter were blood<br />

sausages, pork sausages, and a larger<br />

German style wiener. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />

served with a generous portion of<br />

sauerkraut and roasted potatoes,<br />

as well as lingonberry sauce to go<br />

with the blood sausage. For another<br />

traditional Estonian Christmas<br />

dish, try the roasted pork and<br />

boiled potatoes. Liisu Juures has a<br />

good selection of Estonian beers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> mead, which was not too<br />

sweet, was a good accompaniment<br />

to the selection of sausages. ■<br />

Location<br />

Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town H1<br />

Facebook: liisujuures<br />

TALU KÕRTS<br />

(Farm Tavern)<br />

Hearty foods, generous portions,<br />

and a free shot of vodka,<br />

what more could you ask for in<br />

a pub? <strong>The</strong> menu boasts traditional<br />

Estonian foods, as well<br />

as Estonian favourites. Try the<br />

fried cheese, or hunter’s burning<br />

sausages as a snack with beer. To<br />

start, the sauerkraut soup with<br />

smoked pork, or the pea soup<br />

are Estonian staples. Follow that<br />

with roasted pork and sauerkraut,<br />

or the Heretic’s pork (pork chop<br />

with roasted onions). Reasonably<br />

priced food and beers, especially<br />

when you consider the pub’s<br />

location on the main street of the<br />

Old Town. You certainly won’t go<br />

home hungry, or thirsty! ■<br />

Location<br />

Viru 18, Tallinn Old Town H3<br />

www.talukorts.ee<br />

Eesti Söögituba<br />

(Estonian Dining<br />

Room)<br />

This relatively new addition to<br />

the list of Estonian restaurants in<br />

Tallinn has all of the basic Estonian<br />

staples covered. What was truly<br />

great about the dishes at Eesti<br />

Söögituba, was that they came in<br />

manageable sized portions, meaning<br />

you will have room to try a<br />

few different dishes, or even have<br />

dessert.<br />

Try the <strong>Baltic</strong> herring and redonion<br />

tartar with crispy bread to<br />

start, or the Estonian black pud-<br />

NOP<br />

If you’ve headed out to Kadriorg,<br />

why not stop in at NOP for<br />

coffee and dessert, or even better,<br />

lunch. Starting in December,<br />

it’s Christmas at NOP, which<br />

means Christmas food! Enjoy a<br />

selection of Christmas inspired<br />

ding with lingonberry remoulade.<br />

As a main course, you can’t go<br />

wrong with the juniper-smoked<br />

pork with honey cabbage, potato<br />

groats porridge and mustard<br />

sauce.<br />

To drink, the naiste õlu, or<br />

ladies’ beer comes served with a<br />

bit of Vana Tallinn liqueur mixed<br />

in. ■<br />

favourites during the holiday season.<br />

Or take something home to<br />

enjoy. You can order everything<br />

you need for your Christmas meal<br />

from NOP. If you’re only visiting<br />

Estonia, then why not take home<br />

one of their homemade jams, or<br />

Location<br />

Pikk 29, Tallinn Old Town G2<br />

www.meritonhotels.com/eesti_soogituba/<br />

packets of gingerbread (also available<br />

as gluten-free).<br />

■<br />

Location<br />

Köleri 1, Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3<br />

www.nop.ee


12 shopping<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> Gu <strong>Guide</strong>’s<br />

glögg taste ttest<br />

winner<br />

Loimu Glögi<br />

i 9.99€ <strong>The</strong><br />

best mulled wine w was<br />

Hõõgvein Talvenauding<br />

Taalvenauding<br />

2.79€. 22.79€.<br />

Available<br />

at most<br />

major superm supermarkets. markets.<br />

■ Lotte, from the popupular children’s film Lotte otte<br />

from Gadgetville<br />

(2006) ( Lotte plush<br />

toy. 19.90€ Tallinna a<br />

Kaubamaja Kau Children’s n’s<br />

Department. Dep Gonsiori iori<br />

2, Ta Tallinn B2.<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>’s<br />

HOLIDAY SHOPPING<br />

GUIDE<br />

■ At FreyWille, you can<br />

find a great selection<br />

of traditional and high<br />

quality gifts. For men:<br />

cufflinks 455€ and tie<br />

clip 310€. For women: a<br />

beautiful bracelet 770€.<br />

FreyWille, Pärnu mnt 12,<br />

Tallinn J2.<br />

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />

■ Estonian chocolate<br />

always makes a gre great pre-<br />

sent. Kalev Kalevipoeg<br />

Kalevip<br />

Chocolate 2.95€. Available A<br />

at most major su supe supermar- pe p<br />

kets.<br />

■ Paper models, a great gift ft for<br />

both girls and boys. No glue lue<br />

required for assembly. Choose hoose<br />

between ships, planes, and nd<br />

cars. 7.95€ Tallinna Kaubamaja amaja<br />

Children’s Department.<br />

Gonsiori 2, Tallinn B2.


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 shopping<br />

13<br />

■ Homemade jam is<br />

a delicious stocking<br />

stuffer. Beetroot<br />

and apple jam 3.50€<br />

NOP Köleri 1, Tallinn<br />

(Kadriorg) B3<br />

■ Angora wool socks make<br />

a wonderful erful gift for both<br />

men and d women. 24.86€.<br />

Tervisekaubad, kaubad, Lootsi 7,<br />

Norde Centrum. Tallinn A3.<br />

■ Make gingerbread at<br />

home with this mix.<br />

Rye flour, almond<br />

meal, and cranberry<br />

gingerbread mix.<br />

9.90€ NOP Köleri 1,<br />

Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3<br />

■ Hot H water bottles<br />

come c in different<br />

shapes and colours.<br />

28.70€ Tervisekaubad,<br />

Lootsi 7, Norde<br />

Centrum. Tallinn A3.<br />

■ With these leather<br />

gloves, you can still<br />

use the touch screen<br />

on your phone.<br />

Women’s gloves<br />

34.50€, Men’s gloves<br />

50.90€. Tunor, Aia 10,<br />

Tallinn Old Town G3.


14 children's activities<br />

DISCOVER TALLINN<br />

like a child<br />

December is the darkest month of the year, but with<br />

snow on the ground, kids just love spending time e outdoors.<br />

Should fingers get stiff and cheeks cold, there ere is<br />

just as much to do inside!<br />

Tobogganing<br />

and skiing<br />

� Estonia is a winter country.<br />

Kids love to rush down the slopes<br />

at the Song Festival Grounds –<br />

provided there is snow. You can<br />

use just about anything to sit on,<br />

and off you go, down the hill. On<br />

snowy winter days and evenings,<br />

the Song Festival Ground slopes<br />

are crowded.<br />

Tallinn Song Festival Grounds<br />

Narva mnt 95, Tallinn<br />

<strong>The</strong> ZOO<br />

� <strong>The</strong> Tallinn Zoo is always fascinating.<br />

In December, visitors<br />

can get to know the life of various<br />

insects, or visit the chimpanzees.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y will celebrate Christmas<br />

on December 21 with gifts,<br />

i.e. food wrapped in various ways.<br />

Equal treatment is important, thus<br />

all other animals will celebrate<br />

Christmas on December 26 with<br />

extra goodies!<br />

Tallinn Zoo is located next<br />

to the largest shopping centre<br />

in Tallinn, Rocca-al-Mare and a<br />

pleasant 15-minute walk from the<br />

Estonian Open Air Museum.<br />

Paldiski mnt 145, Tallinn<br />

Transportation:<br />

Trolley bus no 6, busses. no 22 and 21<br />

www.tallinnzoo.ee<br />

PALDISKI MNT. 7<br />

4<br />

Train Station<br />

RANNAMÄE<br />

TEE 11 5<br />

6<br />

OLD<br />

TOWN<br />

3<br />

PÄRNU MNT.<br />

PORT/HABOUR<br />

9<br />

VIRU<br />

SQUARE<br />

24<br />

3<br />

ESTONIA<br />

PST.<br />

LIIVALAIA<br />

AHTRI<br />

5 NARVA MNT.<br />

2<br />

Viru hotell<br />

Stockmann GONSIORI<br />

TARTU MNT.<br />

JUHKENTALI<br />

PIRITA<br />

1<br />

Like to<br />

skate?<br />

� Rent skates at the Harju<br />

Street skating rink, then join the<br />

crowds and skate to the romantic<br />

and inspiring Strauss waltzes. <strong>The</strong><br />

rink is just next to the St. Nicholas<br />

Church on Harju Street in<br />

Tallinn’s Old Town. You are surrounded<br />

by medieval buildings<br />

and the atmosphere is magic.<br />

If you get cold, then just sit down<br />

at the rink-side café & bar and<br />

enjoy a hot chocolate.<br />

Open daily 10.00 – 22.00.<br />

Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town I1.<br />

1<br />

NUKU Estonian State<br />

Puppet & Youth <strong>The</strong>atre<br />

� Grown ups often yawn at<br />

the thought to going to a puppet<br />

theatre and are inclined to believe<br />

that it’s only for kids. Once inside<br />

the theatre, they are carried<br />

away and fascinated. Actors at<br />

the Puppet <strong>The</strong>atre are real professionals.<br />

You end up in a world<br />

between fantasy and reality, with<br />

many well-known fairy tale figures<br />

and childhood memories.<br />

<strong>The</strong> museum depicts the history<br />

of puppet theatre art in Estonia<br />

and elsewhere, through puppets,<br />

words, and pictures, and with different<br />

forms of technology. It also<br />

introduces the history of the top<br />

level Estonian State Puppet <strong>The</strong>atre.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a picture machine with<br />

a video screen and 160 coloured<br />

buttons. Press any one of these<br />

and you will hear voices of actors<br />

who have worked in the theatre.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are excerpts from roles,<br />

songs, and thoughts.<br />

Estonian State Puppet & Youth <strong>The</strong>atre, Lai<br />

1, Tallinn Old Town G1<br />

www.nukuteater.ee<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

AHHAA<br />

Science<br />

Centre<br />

� You don’t have to be interested<br />

in science to visit this centre. <strong>The</strong> 4D<br />

cinema carries you away into the<br />

mysteries of science fiction. Currently,<br />

at AHHAA you can see an<br />

exhibition on light, which is exposed<br />

in 20 different ways through lasers,<br />

cameras, plasma balls, and more.<br />

Most things are interactive, so don’t<br />

be shy, take part.<br />

Vabadus väljak, Tallinn, Old Town J1<br />

www.ahhaa.ee


WWW.TELETORN.EE<br />

WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN<br />

BRASSERIE &<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

TELETORN<br />

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW<br />

<strong>The</strong> TV Tower is<br />

located 10 km from<br />

the city centre and 4<br />

km from the Pirita<br />

Marina.<br />

Kloostrimetsa tee<br />

58A, Tallinn<br />

HOW TO GET HERE:<br />

You can take buses<br />

34A, 38, and 49 (stop<br />

"Teletorn"), or the City<br />

Tour bus. Our premises<br />

are handicap<br />

accessible.<br />

PARKING:<br />

<strong>The</strong> TV Tower<br />

parking lot has 5<br />

places for tourist<br />

buses and 60<br />

places for cars.<br />

Reservations: +372 58150020<br />

E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee<br />

Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23<br />

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����������������������������Mon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00���+372 6 650 928<br />

restoran@chateau.ee ��www.chateau.ee<br />

Restaurant Le Chateau<br />

brings French cuisine to Tallinn!<br />

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy<br />

and charming<br />

atmosphere while<br />

you taste the 17th<br />

Century-inspired French<br />

menu.Come experience<br />

the royal dining<br />

traditions of the Sun King<br />

Louis XIV!<br />

Bring this ad with<br />

you and<br />

enjoy a<br />

complimentary<br />

GLASS OF<br />

LIQUEUR!<br />

Christmas Menu!<br />

www.chateau.ee<br />

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HEALTHY<br />

FRESH<br />

FAST<br />

PASTA<br />

& PIZZA<br />

from<br />

4,90 €<br />

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn<br />

Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010<br />

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn<br />

Near the National Opera <strong>The</strong>atre tfn. +372 6 285 999<br />

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24<br />

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!<br />

FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25<br />

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!


16 outside of Tallinn<br />

December<br />

News<br />

E-Activism in Estonia<br />

President Toomas Hendrik Ilves put forth<br />

a proposal for an e-solution, geared<br />

toward civic activism. Politicians, activists<br />

and commentators met to address grievances<br />

with the government. <strong>The</strong> discussion<br />

concluded with the president's<br />

proposal for an online initiative, which<br />

would allow citizens to suggest policy<br />

changes. <strong>The</strong> suggestions would be<br />

screened by the Estonian Cooperation<br />

Assembly, and presented to Parliament.<br />

Estonia Confirmed as<br />

Member of UN Human<br />

Rights Council<br />

<strong>The</strong> United Nations General Assembly<br />

confirmed Estonia as a member of the<br />

UN Human Rights Council. 184 of 193<br />

members of the General Assembly<br />

voted to approve Estonia for the 47-seat<br />

council. Estonia’s term will be from 2013-<br />

2015. <strong>The</strong> UN Human Rights Council<br />

was established in 2006, replacing the<br />

Human Rights Commission.<br />

Tartu Observatory Re-opens<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tartu Observatory in Tõravere,<br />

outside of Tartu, was completely renovated<br />

and is now open to the public.<br />

Established in 1964, the observatory<br />

made many things for Soviet space<br />

programs, but no major renovations<br />

have been done since then. <strong>The</strong> renovations<br />

to the main building are finished,<br />

but the laboratory is waiting for new<br />

technology to arrive. <strong>The</strong> first project<br />

to be tested in the laboratory will be<br />

Estonia’s first satellite, ESTCube-1.<br />

Tallinn University’s<br />

international appeal<br />

<strong>The</strong> University of Tartu may have the<br />

largest student body in the country,<br />

but Tallinn based universities are more<br />

popular among international students.<br />

193 foreigners attended classes at the<br />

University of Tartu and the Estonian<br />

University of Life Sciences, both based in<br />

Tartu. <strong>The</strong> total number of international<br />

students to study at the five universities<br />

in Tallinn was 625. <strong>The</strong> Tallinn University<br />

of Technology accepted applications<br />

from 296 foreign students, while the<br />

University of Tartu accepted 164.<br />

40 New Buses for Tallinn<br />

<strong>The</strong> capital's public transport operator,<br />

Tallinna Linnatranspordi AS, has announced<br />

that they will buy 40 new buses,<br />

to hopefully be running by December<br />

2013. 20 regular and 20 articulated<br />

buses will replace older vehicles. Tallinn<br />

has already made many changes to the<br />

bus and traffic system in preparation<br />

for the switch to free public transport<br />

for all registered residents of the city on<br />

January 1. Bus lanes have been added,<br />

as well as a new electronic ticketing<br />

system. <strong>The</strong>re will also be some route<br />

changes.<br />

New Performing<br />

Arts Center in Tallinn<br />

A new multi-hall theatre will be built in<br />

the Kalamaja district in the north end of<br />

the city. <strong>The</strong> project is expected to take<br />

seven years. <strong>The</strong> Teatrikeskus (<strong>The</strong>atre<br />

Centre) will be built in the Telliskivi<br />

Creative City. Nine acting troupes will<br />

take up residence. <strong>The</strong> complex will<br />

have two spaces that can be connected<br />

into one 450-seat hall. <strong>The</strong>re will be<br />

another hall for dance performances, a<br />

rehearsal hall, as well as other areas.<br />

TEXT LISA AND KRISTEN DOBBIN, PHOTOS JAAK NILSON<br />

Christmas is a wonderful time<br />

to visit Tartu, a city with an abundance<br />

of holiday cheer! This year,<br />

get festive at a choral concert in<br />

St. John’s Church, partake in one<br />

of the many celebrations in the<br />

Town Hall Square, or ring in the<br />

New Year at the impressive Vanemuine<br />

Concert Hall. For more<br />

details on the holiday season in<br />

Tartu, see: http://kultuuriaken.<br />

tartu.ee<br />

2.12 19:00 <strong>The</strong> Estonian Philharmonic<br />

Chamber Choir & Tallinn Chamber<br />

Orchestra play “Golden Classics” at<br />

the Vanemuise Concert Hall.<br />

www.concert.ee/tartu<br />

4.12 19:00 Get into the spirit with<br />

the concert “Christmas Time,” in St.<br />

Paul's Church. www.plmf.ee<br />

4.–19.12 Eat Estonian Christmas food<br />

& treats, see farm animals, visit with<br />

Santa Claus, and take a sleigh ride in<br />

the park at <strong>The</strong> Estonian Agricultural<br />

Museum, during their program<br />

“Waiting for Christmas.”<br />

www.epm.ee<br />

Christmas in Tartu<br />

08.12 Alatskivi Castle Christmas Fair<br />

www.alatskiviloss.ee<br />

8.12. 20.00 – 24.00 Lõunakeskus<br />

Shopping Centre “Imede öö” (<strong>The</strong><br />

Night of Wonders) Deals and discounts,<br />

and the best prices of the year.<br />

Enjoy an ice show as well!<br />

www.lounakeskus.com<br />

8.12 12:00 - 17:00 <strong>The</strong> design market<br />

“Clockwork,” at the Tartu Centre for<br />

Creative Industries, is a great place to<br />

find unique gifts. www.lmk.ee/eng<br />

2.-06.01.2013 Tartu Christmas<br />

City: a series of events for all ages,<br />

held in and around the Town Hall<br />

Square. For more information and<br />

a schedule of events: http://joululinn.tartu.ee<br />

15.12 11.00-17.00 <strong>The</strong> Christmas<br />

Fair, located in Tartu’s Town Hall<br />

Square and along Küüni Street,<br />

is a great place to find gifts while<br />

enjoying folk dancing, games, traditional<br />

Christmas food and more.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />

15.12 13:00 4th Tartu Winter Dance<br />

Festival, held in the Town Hall Square.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />

15.12 17.00 An advent concert by the<br />

Estonian Mixed Choirs’ Association at<br />

St. John’s Church.<br />

www.segakoorideliit.ee<br />

<strong>The</strong> holiday season is a wonderful time to visit Tartu.<br />

16.12 17:00 A free performance<br />

of Christmas carols in Finnish and<br />

English at St John's Church.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />

16.12 19:00 Ivo Linna, Ott Lepland, and<br />

Noorkuu perform spirited Christmas<br />

music at the Vanemuise Concert Hall.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />

18.12 19:00 Estonian Philharmonic<br />

Chamber Choir and Tallinn Chamber<br />

Orchestra perform Haydn’s “Te<br />

Deum.” www.concert.ee/tartu<br />

19.12 19:00 “Christmas Bells” in St.<br />

John’s Church, by a vocalist from the<br />

Estonian National Opera, with oboe<br />

and percussion ensemble. "<br />

www.concert.ee/tartu<br />

20.12 19:00 Young musicians from<br />

Tartu’s Arsise Kellade School offer a<br />

concert with Christmas flavour at St.<br />

Peter’s Church.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />

22.12 18:00 <strong>The</strong> Vanemuise<br />

Symphony Orchestra advent concert<br />

at St. John’s Church.<br />

www.vanemuine.ee<br />

22.12 19:00 Annely Peebo, Dave<br />

Benton and the ETV children's<br />

Christmas show at the Vanemuise<br />

Concert Hall.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

31.12 17.00 Vanemuine Concert Hall hosts the Hennessy and<br />

Eesti Kontsert New Year’s Eve concert. www.concert.ee/tartu<br />

23.12 19:00 “Silent Night” performed<br />

by the Estonian National Male Choir at<br />

Vanemuise Concert Hall<br />

www.concert.ee/tartu<br />

23.12 19:00 St Peter’s Church<br />

hosts a performance of “Jõuluöö<br />

Tähed” (Christmas Eve’s Stars) by<br />

opera singers Maria Listra and Jassi<br />

Zahharov, accompanied by piano.<br />

www.kontsert.ee<br />

26.12 19:00 Christmas music with<br />

the Arsise Kellade Ensemble and<br />

Estonian National Opera soloists,<br />

performed in St. John’s Church<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />

27.12 19:00 “Christmas in the Heart”<br />

concert at St. John’s Church<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />

27.12 20:00 Liisi Koikson’s Christmas<br />

Concert at the Athena Centre.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />

29.12 15:00 Hortus Musicus perform<br />

at St. John’s Church.<br />

http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />

30.12 19.00 <strong>The</strong> Vanemuise End of<br />

Year Ball, an annual event featuring<br />

various artists and performers (tickets<br />

26€, after 1 Dec 40€).<br />

www.vanemuine.ee


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 17<br />

Upcoming Events:<br />

DECEMBER:<br />

Dec 6, 19.00 - Top Estonian Rock<br />

Musicians Sibul-Vaigla-Rull, Otepää<br />

Cultural Centre<br />

Dec 8, 15 and 22, 20.00 - Lake Leigo<br />

Christmas Concerts, great music in a<br />

fabulous setting<br />

Dec 16, 16.00 - Christmas Concert,<br />

Otepää Cultural Centre<br />

Dec 21, Inauguration of Otepää as<br />

the Winter Capital. Festivities around<br />

town.<br />

Dec 22, 16.00 - Folk Jazz, Otepää<br />

Cultural Centre<br />

Dec 28-29, <strong>Baltic</strong> Cup, cross-country<br />

skiing and rifle shooting biathlon<br />

Dec 31, New Years Celebration,<br />

Lipuväljak Square<br />

JANUARY:<br />

Jan 5-6, International Biathlon<br />

Union<br />

Jan 12-13, Ski jumping<br />

Jan 26-27 International Dog-sledge<br />

competition<br />

FEBRUARY:<br />

Feb 2-3, Cross-country and ski jump<br />

competition<br />

Feb 15-24 Ice music Festival<br />

Feb 24 Independence Day celebrations,<br />

family event<br />

Worldloppet Ski Federation Crosscountry<br />

Ski Marathon<br />

10.02.2013 Open Track 31 km<br />

10.02.2013 Open Track 63km<br />

17.02.2013 Tartu Marathon 31 km<br />

17.02.2013 Tartu Marathon 63 km<br />

<strong>The</strong> programs include races for children<br />

and elite athletes. All events have<br />

shorter distances for amateurs.<br />

www.tartumaraton.ee<br />

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN<br />

PHOTOS OTEPÄÄ TOURISM INFORMATION CENTRE,<br />

KRISTINA LUPP<br />

A winter weekend away in Otepää<br />

is a great escape. <strong>The</strong> ski<br />

slopes and cross-country trails<br />

are full of people in the daytime.<br />

When darkness falls, the festivities<br />

move inside to the pubs, bars,<br />

and discos.<br />

Ski the downhill slopes at<br />

Kuutsemäe or Väike Munamägi,<br />

close to Estonia’s winter sport<br />

No equipment, no<br />

problem:<br />

everything is<br />

available for rent.<br />

Mecca, Otepää. On a day with<br />

limited visibility you won’t see<br />

that there aren’t any mountains<br />

around, just a few slopes, the longest<br />

run being some 500 meters.<br />

<strong>The</strong> race from the top to the bottom<br />

of the hill doesn’t take very<br />

long, but it’s great fun! Estonians<br />

take pride in the fact that Estonia<br />

has higher hills than Latvia and<br />

Lithuania! <strong>The</strong> highest point of<br />

elevation in Estonia is only 317<br />

meters.<br />

Downhill skiing is not the only<br />

reason to visit the area. Otepää is<br />

known foremost for its excellent<br />

cross-country skiing, with some<br />

80 kilometres of tracks, many of<br />

which are illuminated at night.<br />

And don’t forget about the over<br />

60 km of track used for the Worldloppet<br />

Tartu Marathon.<br />

In addition to downhill and<br />

cross-country skiing, Otepää<br />

sports<br />

offers winter activity fanatics<br />

ski-jumping, ice skating, snow<br />

tubing and much more! On a clear<br />

winter’s day, the silence and beauty<br />

of nature, and the snow covered<br />

trees is stunning.<br />

No equipment, no problem:<br />

everything is available for rent.<br />

Where to stay?<br />

Where to eat?<br />

Otepää and its surroundings offer<br />

over 70 hotels, hostels and cottages.<br />

Rooms are found easily<br />

midweek. Advance bookings are<br />

advised for weekends.<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> upscale Pühajärve Spa &<br />

Holiday Resort, located in an old<br />

manor house on the shores of romantic<br />

Lake Pühajärv (Holy Lake) is a place<br />

of natural tranquillity. This hotel offers<br />

fine dining, accommodation, spa<br />

Winter<br />

in Estonia<br />

facilities, and is popular among conference<br />

guests. www.pyhajarve.com<br />

■ Villa Müllerbeck boasts luxurious<br />

accommodation and an excellent<br />

restaurant. <strong>The</strong> hotel is located on the<br />

shores of a small lake on the outskirts<br />

of Otepää. www.villamullerbeck.eu<br />

■ SPA Hotel Bernhard offers a variety<br />

of rooms, an excellent restaurant<br />

and a large spa area. <strong>The</strong> hotel is located<br />

close to Lake Pühajärv and you can<br />

start your cross-country adventure<br />

just outside of the hotel.<br />

www.bernhard.ee<br />

■ GMP Club Hotel offers a stunning<br />

view of Lake Pühajärv and the rolling<br />

hills. Amenities include a great restaurant,<br />

live entertainment, and a gym.<br />

www.clubhotel.ee<br />

■ Piiri Sport and Recreation<br />

Centre is located 13 km from Otepää,<br />

and offers self-catering accommodation<br />

in huts. Simple lodging is for<br />

groups attending sporting events.<br />

www.piiri.org<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tartu Marathon will take place February 17 in Otepää.<br />

Enjoy winter sports in Otepää<br />

TALLINN<br />

How to get there?<br />

Otepää is located about 250 km<br />

southeast of Tallinn and 60 km south<br />

of Tartu.<br />

Daily flights, except on Saturday, operate<br />

from Helsinki to Tartu.<br />

www.flybe.com.<br />

Taxi from Tartu will cost approx. 35<br />

euro, 50 km.<br />

Frequent bus services to/from Tartu<br />

and Tallinn. www.tpilet.ee<br />

Otepää Tourism Information<br />

www.otepaa.ee<br />

For more information about winter<br />

sporting events visit:<br />

www.biathlon.ee<br />

http://otepaa.biathlon.ee<br />

www.suusliit.ee<br />

www.otepaasleddograce.eu<br />

Tartu


18 beauty<br />

STATIC blues<br />

How to fix static-ridden<br />

and dry winter hair.<br />

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />

Living in a northern climate<br />

means long, chilly, snowy winters,<br />

and bundling up before going<br />

outside. You spend all morning<br />

blow-drying your hair and then<br />

covering it with spray to make sure<br />

it looks silky and smooth. You put<br />

your hat on to go outside, and as<br />

soon as you take it off, the static is<br />

back! Don’t worry, there is a solution.<br />

Liis Sooäär, a sales consultant<br />

at Hairmail in Tallinn, has a few<br />

suggestions.<br />

It’s not too late! No hair is<br />

beyond repair. <strong>The</strong>se products<br />

help you fix dry dead ends, and<br />

bring back your hair’s natural<br />

shine. “Hair masks are a great way<br />

to put moisture back into your<br />

locks,” explains Liis. “If you are in<br />

a hurry, there are even some quick<br />

masks that take no more than one<br />

minute.” Liis explained that if you<br />

do have a bit more time, wearing a<br />

hair mask in the sauna, can really<br />

increase its results.<br />

Liis offers one final suggestion<br />

for winter hair care. “Blow dry<br />

and straighten your hair in moderation,<br />

as it can be particularly<br />

hard on your hair in winter. And<br />

be sure to always use a heat protection<br />

spray before blow drying.”<br />

■<br />

PROBLEM � : STATIC FROM WEARING A HAT,<br />

OR LONG HAIR THAT CLINGS TO YOUR CLOTHES. S.<br />

Solution:<br />

PROBLEM �: DRY HAIR FROM INDOOR HEATING AND BLOW DRYING.<br />

Solution:<br />

TIGI Bed Head Urban<br />

Antidotes Resurrection<br />

Use these products in<br />

winter to prevent dry hair<br />

from breaking.<br />

Shampoo 250ml 15,90€<br />

Conditioner 200ml<br />

17,90€<br />

L`OREAL Mythic Oil 125ml 26,00€<br />

<strong>The</strong> Mythic Oil line of products contains<br />

avocado and grape seed oil. <strong>The</strong><br />

oil is best used to repair dry dead ends<br />

and adds a sleek shine, while not leaving<br />

your hair feeling greasy.<br />

Mere pst<br />

Viru<br />

Squere<br />

Location<br />

HAIRMAIL<br />

Ahtri<br />

Hairmail<br />

Rotermanni 6, Tallinn A2<br />

www.hairmail.ee<br />

Narva mnt<br />

Goldwell Winter Care Anti-static<br />

Shampoo and 60-second Mask<br />

Use this shampoo and mask regularly<br />

during the winter months to prevent<br />

static. Both the shampoo and mask<br />

have a refreshing orange scent.<br />

Shampoo 250ml 9,60€<br />

60 Second Mask 200ml 11,50€<br />

Buy this as part of a gift set, including<br />

hand cream 23,00€<br />

L`OREAL Intense Repair<br />

This series gives intense moisture to<br />

your hair without leaving it feeling<br />

greasy. It leaves your hair smooth, silky<br />

and strong.<br />

Shampoo 250ml 11,20€<br />

Mask 200ml 16,30€<br />

THE BBALTIC A LT LTI LT LTI LT LTI LT LTI LT L TI TTI T TI T I C G<br />

G GGUIDE<br />

UI UUI U ID I E DEC DECEMBER C EM E M BER BE BER B R 20 2012 12<br />

Goldwell Satin<br />

Guard 200ml<br />

17,30 €<br />

Spray onto hair<br />

when it’s dry for<br />

moisture protection<br />

up to 72 hours and<br />

to prevent static.<br />

TIGI Bed Head Spoil<br />

Me 300ml 21,90€<br />

Use this spray before<br />

blow-drying to protect<br />

your hair from<br />

the heat. Use on dry<br />

hair to prevent frizz<br />

and static.<br />

Wella Enrich Series<br />

<strong>The</strong>se products restore hair’s moisture,<br />

and give a little bit of volume as well.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y contain cider extract to leave hair<br />

feeling smooth. Available for: thick, normal,<br />

and fine hair.<br />

Shampoo 250ml 11,10€<br />

Conditioner 200ml 12,95€<br />

Mask 150ml 13,40€


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 museum<br />

19<br />

KUMU -<br />

<strong>The</strong> Art Museum<br />

of Estonia<br />

KUMU is not only a museum; it hosts concerts,<br />

shows and other events. It is the perfect place to<br />

find inspiration for both the mind, and soul.<br />

■ DECEMBER EVENTS:<br />

Dec 5, 19.00 Christmas Jazz, <strong>The</strong> Jacob<br />

Karlzon Trio.<br />

Dec 6, 19.00 Sofi and the Magic Bird, fairy-tale<br />

dance performance.<br />

Dec 9, 19.00 Christmas Jazz, Tigran<br />

Hamasyan.<br />

Dec 12, 19.00 and Dec 14, 20.00 Experimental<br />

Concert Performance: Diva<br />

Dec 18, 18.00 'Telling the American Story':<br />

Let's Talk About Music<br />

■ OTHER EXHIBITS:<br />

Archaeology and the Future of Estonian Art<br />

Scenes<br />

19.10.2012–30.12.2012<br />

5th floor, Gallery of Contemporary Art<br />

Geometrical Man<br />

14.9.12–20.1.13 Kumu Art Museum<br />

IRWIN. Construction of the Context<br />

24.10.12–10.2.13 Kumu Art Museum<br />

Avo Keerend and Evi Tihemets. Colour in<br />

Estonian Graphic Art<br />

10.11.12–17.3.13 Adamson-Eric Museum<br />

Mare Vint. Drawings Through Five Decades<br />

8.12.12–5.5.13 Mikkel Museum<br />

A Collector's Passion. Silver and Prints from<br />

the Reinans Collection<br />

08.12.2012–05.05.2013<br />

Fashion and the Cold War<br />

14.09.2012 – 20.01.2013<br />

In 2008, KUMU won the European Museum of the Year Award.<br />

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />

TALLINN<br />

■ Museums<br />

Estonian Museum of Applied Art<br />

and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja<br />

Disainimuuseum)<br />

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G<br />

www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18<br />

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall<br />

(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)<br />

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1<br />

www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18<br />

Estonian History Museum<br />

Maarjamäe Palace<br />

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5<br />

www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17<br />

Estonian Maritime Museum<br />

(Eesti Meremuuseum)<br />

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3<br />

www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18<br />

Estonian Museum of Natural History<br />

(Eesti Loodusmuuseum)<br />

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2<br />

www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17<br />

Estonian Open Air Museum<br />

(Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)<br />

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee<br />

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17<br />

Estonian <strong>The</strong>atre and Music Museum<br />

(Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)<br />

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2<br />

www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18<br />

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages<br />

Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1<br />

www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/<br />

1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18<br />

1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30<br />

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum<br />

(Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)<br />

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4<br />

www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18<br />

Dominican Monastery Museum<br />

(Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)<br />

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3<br />

www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17<br />

Winter by appointment only.<br />

Museum of Estonian Architecture<br />

(Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.<br />

Rotermanni soolaladu)<br />

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee<br />

We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18<br />

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU<br />

(Nukumuuseum NUKU)<br />

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1<br />

www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19<br />

Occupation Museum<br />

(Okupatsioonimuuseum)<br />

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1<br />

www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18<br />

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)<br />

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old<br />

Town Square)<br />

www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum<br />

1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30<br />

Tallinn City Museum<br />

(Tallinna Linnamuuseum)<br />

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3<br />

www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30<br />

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum<br />

(Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)<br />

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2<br />

http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/<br />

N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays<br />

Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available<br />

in English, Finnish, and Russian.<br />

■ Art Museums & Galleries<br />

Adamson-Eric Museum<br />

(Adamson-Ericu muuseum)<br />

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1<br />

www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18<br />

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)<br />

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee<br />

Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17<br />

May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17<br />

July–Dec 2012 Closed for renovations.<br />

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)<br />

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee<br />

Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17<br />

July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20<br />

Kumu Art Museum<br />

(Kumu kunstimuuseum)<br />

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5<br />

www.kumu.ee<br />

Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18<br />

May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18<br />

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)<br />

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1<br />

www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17<br />

Ticket office closes 16.30<br />

■ Smaller Galleries<br />

Draakoni Galerii<br />

Pikk 18, Tallinn Old Town, G2<br />

www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm<br />

Mo-Fr 11-18, Sa 11-17<br />

Hobusepea Galerii<br />

Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town, G2<br />

www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm<br />

We-Mo 11-18<br />

Kunstisalong Allee<br />

Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town, G2<br />

www.allee.ee<br />

Mo-Fr 10-18, Sa 11-15<br />

Tallinna Kunstihoone<br />

Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town, J1<br />

www.kunstihoone.ee<br />

We-Su 12-18<br />

Vaal Galerii<br />

Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn<br />

www.vaal.ee. Tu-Fr 12-18, Sa 12-16<br />

Vabaduse Galerii<br />

Vabaduse väljak 6, Tallinn Old Town, J1<br />

Mo-Fr 10-18<br />

TARTU<br />

■ Museums<br />

Estonian Literary Museum<br />

(Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)<br />

Vanemuise 42, Tartu<br />

www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30<br />

Estonian National Museum<br />

(Eesti Rahva Muuseum)<br />

Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu<br />

www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18<br />

Estonian Sports Museum<br />

(Eesti Spordimuuseum)<br />

Rüütli 15, Tartu<br />

www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18<br />

KGB Cells Museum<br />

(KGB Kongide Muuseum)<br />

Riia 15b, Tartu<br />

http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16<br />

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen<br />

of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku<br />

Muuseum)<br />

Jaani 16, Tartu<br />

http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15<br />

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)<br />

Rüütli 15, Tartu<br />

www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18<br />

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)<br />

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18<br />

http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee<br />

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)<br />

Lossi 40, Tartu<br />

Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn<br />

Tartu Song Festival Museum<br />

(Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)<br />

Jaama 14, Tartu<br />

Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee<br />

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu<br />

Mänguasjamuuseum)<br />

Lutsu 8, Tartu<br />

www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18<br />

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)<br />

Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square)<br />

http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4<br />

15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14<br />

15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17<br />

■ Art Museums & Galleries<br />

Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)<br />

Raekoja plats 18, Tartu<br />

http://www.tartmus.ee<br />

We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00<br />

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)<br />

Vanemuise 26, Tartu<br />

www.kunstimaja.ee<br />

We-Mo 12-18


20<br />

Go see:<br />

A 1930s Cabaret<br />

Roman Hovenbitzer’s Cabaret premiered<br />

October 20 in Tartu.<br />

This season’s Cabaret is a little bit different<br />

than Georg Malviuse’s production<br />

ten years ago in Tallinn.<br />

Gerli Padar plays the female lead. She<br />

plays the character Sally Bowles, a role<br />

she will share with Tanja Mihhailova.<br />

Mihhailova told Eesti Päevaleht that the<br />

role is very dramatic, and one can find<br />

musical similarities with ones own life.<br />

Go drinking at:<br />

Photo: Andrei Ozdoba<br />

Kohvik Noorus<br />

Shots have sounded the death toll to<br />

many a great night. <strong>The</strong>ir appearance<br />

marks the point at which a pleasant evening<br />

turns into something much more<br />

sinister and frightening. At Kohvik Noorus,<br />

however, the simple shot is the staple<br />

drink for one of Tallinn's more cosy and<br />

fun venues.<br />

Situated away in the Old Town's back<br />

streets at Lai 10, the daytime passer-by<br />

wouldn't even know that there was a bar<br />

there. It's only at night; with a bustling<br />

throng of smokers and the old skool tunes<br />

blaring out the window that you get any<br />

idea that something may be happening<br />

there.<br />

Upon entering what at first seems like<br />

the side-entrance to someone's house,<br />

Like Bowles says: “Everyone has the right to<br />

live however they choose.”<br />

Cabaret will come to Tallinn too. Performances<br />

take place at the Nokia Concert Hall<br />

December 15, and January 2. Tanja Mihhailova<br />

will play the lead on the 15th and Gerli<br />

Padar, the lead on the 2nd.<br />

<strong>The</strong> musical will have English and Finnish<br />

subtitles. Tickets available at Piletilevi.<br />

you find yourself thrown into a darkened<br />

room of comfy chairs, blackened walls and<br />

painted giant mushrooms. It's the acid trip<br />

gone wrong. At the bar, you'll find a full list<br />

of all the affordable shots with names such<br />

as 'Bleeding Wet Pussy;' and as you head<br />

to the back, you come across a dance floor<br />

sizeable enough for even the worst drunk's<br />

party moves.<br />

Kohvik Noorus isn't going to be the taste<br />

of the leery stag do crowd but it's certainly<br />

one of the more fun, alternative bars in<br />

the city, and I haven't even spoken about<br />

the Tapas. ■<br />

Location<br />

Kohvik Noorus<br />

Lai 10, Tallinn Old Town G1. Open 6pm – late<br />

nightlife THE<br />

One of the joys of Tallinn is that being a<br />

European capital city allows it to host far<br />

more worthy options for the New Year's<br />

Eve partygoer than its size suggests. <strong>The</strong><br />

vast numbers of clubs that can be found<br />

in the town mean that there should be<br />

something for everybody.<br />

Venus Club's Viva Las Venus offers an<br />

American themed start to the New Year.<br />

With cocktails galore and the promise of<br />

glamorous people and 2001 Eurovision<br />

winner Dave Benson, what isn't there to<br />

like.<br />

80's and 90's nostalgia seems to be the<br />

order of the day with 777 - <strong>The</strong> Bank Club,<br />

hosting early 90's Brit-soul act London<br />

Beat, along with the disco divas in cages.<br />

Café Amigo at the Sokos Hotel Viru goes<br />

for a less raucous, but no less fun affair of<br />

Estonian artist Rolf Roosalu's tribute to<br />

George Michael.<br />

Club Prive offers the opportunity to<br />

see in the New Year, slightly richer than<br />

before. <strong>The</strong>ir lucky cash cannon will blow<br />

BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

Welcome in the<br />

New Year, Tallinn style<br />

While Christmas is a time for watching your Aunt<br />

Doris get drunk on sherry, New Year's Eve offers the<br />

opportunity to forget about the dysfunctional family<br />

and indulge in an evening of partying pleasure.<br />

777 - <strong>The</strong> Bank Club<br />

out €2000 at 3.00, allowing you to enjoy a<br />

night popping champagne with glamorous<br />

people, safe in the knowledge that you'll be<br />

able to afford a taxi at the end of the night.<br />

For a whole night's entertainment, visit<br />

Wabadus restaurant, Club Vabank and<br />

Club Bibabo for the price of one. <strong>The</strong> evening<br />

starts at 20.00 with an á la carte dinner,<br />

accompanied by operettas in Wabadus,<br />

followed by a New Year's Eve party<br />

over three floors, adding Vabank and Bibabo<br />

from 23:00. <strong>The</strong> entertainment program<br />

includes DJ's, live music, prima ballerinas,<br />

and air acrobats! Situated next to the Liberty<br />

Square, the three neighbouring restaurant<br />

and clubs offer a night to remember.<br />

Venus Club<br />

Vana-Viru 14<br />

Dress Code: Formal<br />

Tickets: €10 advance, €15 on door<br />

For ticket info call +3725519999 or email<br />

venus@venusclub.ee.<br />

777 <strong>The</strong> Bank Club<br />

Tickets: € 25 advance, €35 on door<br />

Cafe Amigo<br />

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn Old Town<br />

Tickets: €13 on door, €8 for VIP card holders<br />

Club Privé<br />

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town<br />

Tickets: €20, €15 with flyer<br />

info: +372 56 256 000<br />

Wabadus, Vabank, Bibabo<br />

Vabank, Bibabo, Wabadus<br />

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1<br />

Dress Code: formal<br />

Tickets: 20:00 entry: €65 for dinner party<br />

and club, €35 for snacks and drinks and<br />

later entry; entry at 23:00: €25 on door, €15<br />

advance from Piletilevi www.piletilevi.ee<br />

www.vabank.ee, www.bibabo.ee, www.<br />

wabadus.ee


THE BALTIC GUIDE DDE D E DE DECEMBER NOVEMBER OCE CEM EM BE BER ER 20 2012<br />

2012 0 12 2<br />

21<br />

Thank you<br />

Rock Gods, thank you<br />

Muse's appearance in Estonia goes to show that this is no<br />

longer the place where 80's acts come to die.<br />

Kim Wilde, Smokie, Right Said<br />

Fred: All these bands have played<br />

in Tallinn over the last year. This<br />

does not inspire the music lover in<br />

Tallinn's ability to provide quality<br />

entertainment. However, bigger,<br />

less past it, acts that are still<br />

downloaded on iTunes are starting<br />

to appear here. In the recent<br />

past we have seen concerts by the<br />

Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Mika,<br />

and the Manic Street Preachers.<br />

Things seem to be moving in the<br />

Photo: Anja Fonseka<br />

nightlife<br />

Every month, English ex-pat, Mark Benn, shares<br />

his thoughts on where to spend your evenings,<br />

be it drinking, dancing, or going to a gig.<br />

<strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong><br />

recommends:<br />

right direction as shown by the<br />

fact that on 11th December at Saku<br />

Suurhall, Muse will be performing<br />

in Tallinn.<br />

Today, Muse are one of the top<br />

rock acts in Europe, playing sold<br />

out shows across the globe and<br />

gaining so much air time on radio<br />

and TV, that to describe the band's<br />

brand of symphonic rock seems<br />

pointless to anybody with the gift<br />

of hearing.<br />

It's been a long journey from<br />

INGRID LUKAS<br />

their beginnings twenty years ago<br />

as a Radiohead covers band. <strong>The</strong><br />

last year has seen the band build<br />

on the Grammy award winning<br />

success of their 4th album, Resistance,<br />

with the release of a new<br />

album, <strong>The</strong> 2nd Law, and their<br />

single Survival being chosen as<br />

the official Olympic song.<br />

Tickets are still available from<br />

ticketpro.ee and start at €59. See<br />

sakusuurhall.ee for details. Muse<br />

play Saku Suurhall in Tallinn on<br />

December 11. ■<br />

Listen to:<br />

Tallinn Nightlife<br />

Go see:<br />

Haunting yet beautiful, the Estonian ex-pat Ingrid Lukas is starting to<br />

find major label success, both inside and outside Estonia.<br />

Unlike many other parts of the<br />

world, a classical music education<br />

is not something to be ashamed of<br />

for any modern act in Estonia. As<br />

a result, many fine musicians have<br />

been able to sustain their credibility<br />

while actually being able to play.<br />

This is no truer than with the<br />

extremely talented Ingrid Lukas.<br />

After three years of studying piano<br />

at Tallinna Muusikakeskkool, she<br />

decamped to Switzerland and<br />

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. <strong>The</strong> city has many kinds of clubs<br />

and pubs, fancy or casual. <strong>The</strong>re is something for everyone. Be<br />

sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.<br />

continued her training in popjazz<br />

at HMT Zurich.<br />

If the results that one gets<br />

from this sort of background are<br />

as good as those found on her two<br />

albums, 2009's We Need to Repeat<br />

and the 2011 major label début,<br />

Silver Secrets, then it's a journey<br />

that should be taken more often.<br />

It would be quite lazy to compare<br />

her to Bjork or Kate Bush,<br />

although Lukas does share the<br />

Sports<br />

Clayhills<br />

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1<br />

Drink Baar<br />

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

Hell Hunt<br />

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2<br />

Mad Murphy’s<br />

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2<br />

Nimeta Baar<br />

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

Live Music<br />

Café Amigo<br />

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2<br />

Chicago 1933<br />

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3<br />

Clazz<br />

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2<br />

Guitar Hunt<br />

Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn<br />

Rock Café<br />

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn<br />

Von Krahl<br />

Town H1<br />

Gay<br />

G-punkt<br />

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn<br />

X-baar<br />

Tatari 1, Tallinn<br />

delicate, fragile and tender quality<br />

that has made the former<br />

stars. Yet, the ethereal, minimalist<br />

sound of her voice that can both<br />

fascinate and haunt the listener, as<br />

well as show an artist with something<br />

original to give.<br />

With a new album coming out<br />

in the near future, we can only<br />

hope that she has a career that<br />

continues to grow.<br />

■<br />

Nightclubs<br />

Arena 3<br />

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3<br />

BonBon<br />

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2<br />

CatHouse<br />

Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2<br />

Club Baila<br />

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

Club Hollywood<br />

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

Club Münt<br />

Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

Club Privé<br />

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1<br />

Club Studio<br />

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />

Panoraam<br />

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2<br />

Parlament<br />

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2<br />

Partei<br />

Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2<br />

Plub<br />

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3<br />

Tapper<br />

Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn<br />

Teater<br />

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1<br />

Vabank<br />

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1<br />

Venus<br />

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3


22 history<br />

A Brief History<br />

of Estonia<br />

z<br />

10,000 BC <strong>The</strong> Ice Age ends and people<br />

arrive in the territory of Estonia.<br />

11th Century <strong>The</strong> main source of subsistence<br />

is agriculture and the provincial<br />

government is formed.<br />

1200s <strong>The</strong> Livonian Brotherhood of the<br />

Sword is formed in Southern Estonia<br />

and the Danish occupy Northern<br />

Estonia.<br />

1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian<br />

peasants rise up against the occupiers<br />

with modest success.<br />

1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the<br />

Teutonic Order.<br />

1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war<br />

against Livonia, when Estonia comprised<br />

part of Latvia. <strong>The</strong> war began in<br />

1553 and included Denmark, Sweden<br />

and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were<br />

divided among Poland (Latvia and<br />

Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern<br />

Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).<br />

1600s Schools are set up and the University<br />

of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.<br />

1700–1710 <strong>The</strong> Great Northern War inflicts<br />

fruitless years of famine and plague.<br />

<strong>The</strong> population decreases from<br />

350,000 to 100,000.<br />

1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to<br />

Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.<br />

1800s <strong>The</strong> power of the Tsar diminishes,<br />

serfdom is abolished and peasants<br />

are given the right to purchase<br />

land (1860). In 1914, half of the land<br />

belongs to the German nobility.<br />

Political power remains in the hands of<br />

the nobility.<br />

1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire,<br />

Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia<br />

organises elections and Konstantin<br />

Päts becomes head of government.<br />

1918 Germany occupies Estonia. <strong>The</strong><br />

Estonian Provincial Assembly<br />

declares Estonia’s independence on<br />

February 24. Estonian forces fight<br />

against German and Russian forces.<br />

1919 Estonian War of Independence continues<br />

and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.<br />

1920 <strong>The</strong> first formal law of Independent<br />

Estonia is made to expand democracy.<br />

Many small political parties are formed.<br />

1929–35 <strong>The</strong> economic and political crisis of<br />

1929-35 results in a state of emergency<br />

and a disbandment of the parliament.<br />

Päts rules by decree.<br />

1937 A new constitution is written, 1938<br />

Päts becomes president, there is a<br />

return to constitutional governance,<br />

but full democracy is not reached prior<br />

to the Soviet occupation.<br />

1939 <strong>The</strong> German-Soviet Non-Aggression<br />

Pact is signed. On September 28,<br />

Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet<br />

Army to set up military bases in<br />

Estonia.<br />

1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia<br />

becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and<br />

merges with the Soviet Union.<br />

1940–41 <strong>The</strong> Germans occupy Estonia.<br />

Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the<br />

German army. In September 1944, the<br />

Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.<br />

1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the<br />

end of 1944, a large part of the population<br />

flees abroad. About 10,000 men<br />

(<strong>The</strong> Forest Brothers) will continue to<br />

fight.<br />

1948 25,000 Estonians are deported to<br />

camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian<br />

population was estimated at 1.1 million,<br />

but by 1949 it had decreased to<br />

850,000.<br />

1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to<br />

Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the<br />

population is Estonian.<br />

1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to<br />

break from the Soviet Union. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

demonstrations, including the environmental<br />

campaign against opening<br />

large phosphorus mines in Virumaa.<br />

1988 <strong>The</strong> Singing Revolution, Estonia<br />

declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988.<br />

1991 Estonia regains independence on<br />

August 20 after the failure of the coup<br />

d’état in Moscow.<br />

2004 Estonia joins the European Union and<br />

NATO.<br />

2011 <strong>The</strong> Euro replaces the Crown, used<br />

since 1992 as currency.<br />

Hortus Musicus<br />

celebrates 40 years<br />

<strong>The</strong> Estonian ensemble Hortus Musicus<br />

can look back on 40 years of<br />

continuous success.<br />

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO HEIKKI LEIS<br />

Audiences are still fascinated with Hortus Musicus.<br />

<strong>The</strong> first concert was given in<br />

November 1972, in the historical<br />

Kiek-in de Kök fortification tower<br />

in Tallinn. <strong>The</strong> father, and founder<br />

of the group Andres Mustonen,<br />

then a violin student, is still a most<br />

innovative and highly appreciated<br />

leader of the group.<br />

Unfortunately, it is difficult to<br />

estimate the value and the impact<br />

of music exports from Estonia. No<br />

doubt Hortus Musicus is one of<br />

the best-known Estonian export<br />

items, culturally speaking. <strong>The</strong><br />

ensemble has given concerts all<br />

over the globe.<br />

Hortus Musicus has been focusing<br />

on European church music<br />

from the 8th to 15th centuries,<br />

through Gregorian chant, Hymns,<br />

and Renaissance music ever since<br />

its founding. <strong>The</strong>re is constant<br />

change, but Hortus Musicus can<br />

always be recognised.<br />

Arvo Pärt, the well-known<br />

Estonian contemporary composer<br />

has written music specifically<br />

for Hortus Musicus. Pärt and<br />

other prominent Estonian musicians<br />

were forced to leave Estonia<br />

in the 1980s. <strong>The</strong>ir music and<br />

interpretation was considered too<br />

dangerous for the Soviet State! It<br />

is difficult to understand on what<br />

grounds irrelevant and incompetent<br />

censors made their decisions<br />

about what kind of music was<br />

acceptable, and what not.<br />

1972 was a dark period in the<br />

history of Estonia. <strong>The</strong> relative<br />

liberalism of the 1960s had been<br />

replaced by the rigid policies of<br />

Brezhnev. Churches and sacred<br />

things were frowned upon. Music<br />

was censored and all repertoires<br />

were thoroughly scrutinised<br />

before they could be approved for<br />

concert performances.<br />

<strong>The</strong> purity and mysticism of<br />

Hortus Musicus and their spiritual<br />

music hit the hearts of the<br />

audiences. People were longing<br />

for music and underlying that,<br />

something that was far from the<br />

lies of the communist ideology.<br />

Besides, what could be more<br />

obvious than medieval music in<br />

a medieval town?<br />

Audiences are still fascinated<br />

by Hortus Musicus. <strong>The</strong>ir performances<br />

are well refined, and their<br />

repertoire is renewed constantly.<br />

Hortus Musicus is only getting<br />

better and better, from an already<br />

amazingly high level!<br />

■<br />

■ HORTUS MUSICUS DECEMBER CONCERTS<br />

Dec 1, 16.00 Christmas music<br />

from the British Isles, Väravatorn<br />

(Gate Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1<br />

Dec 8, 16.00 Christmas music<br />

from France, Väravatorn (Gate<br />

Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1<br />

Dec 20, 19 .00 Concert<br />

in Haapsalu, Haapsalu<br />

Kultuurikeskus<br />

Dec 22, 16.00 Christmas music<br />

from Germany, Väravatorn (Gate<br />

Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1<br />

Dec 27, 19.00 Hortus Musicus<br />

and Collegium Musicale, Jaani<br />

Church, Tallinn Old Town J2<br />

Dec 29, 15.00 Hortus Musicus<br />

and Collegium Musicale, Jaani<br />

Church, Tallinn Old Town J2<br />

December 30, 16.00 Concert in<br />

Väravatorn (Gate Tower), Tallinn<br />

Old Town H1<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

St. Nicholas'<br />

Church –<br />

a museum and<br />

concert hall<br />

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />

St. Nicholas' Church (Niguliste<br />

kirik) was once one of the wealthiest,<br />

most magnificent and beau-<br />

tiful churches in Tallinn, with a<br />

history dating back to the 13th<br />

century.<br />

<strong>The</strong> glory of the Hanseatic<br />

times and the prosperity of the<br />

local merchants is expressed by<br />

valuable pieces of art from Europe.<br />

<strong>The</strong> most noteworthy is the<br />

painting Danse Macabre by the<br />

Lübeck master Bernt Notke. All<br />

pieces and much more are on<br />

display.<br />

<strong>The</strong> church was more or less<br />

destroyed during Soviet air raids<br />

in WWII. Strangely enough, re-<br />

reconstruction started in 1953,<br />

in what was then, atheist Soviet<br />

Estonia. <strong>The</strong> work was completed<br />

in 1984. Ever since, St Nicholas’<br />

Church has housed a museum<br />

and concert hall. <strong>The</strong> acoustics<br />

are excellent. ■<br />

■ DECEMBER CONCERTS AT ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH<br />

Popular 30-minute organ concerts<br />

are given every Saturday<br />

and Sunday at 16.00. <strong>The</strong>y offer<br />

time for contemplation during<br />

the Christmas frenzy.<br />

St. Nicholas Church (Niguliste<br />

Kirik)<br />

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town I1<br />

<strong>The</strong> St Nicolas’ Museum presents<br />

ecclesiastical art from the Medieval<br />

and Early Modern periods,<br />

with the most significant and<br />

extensive collection of church<br />

art in Estonia.<br />

Throughout the first half of<br />

2013 visitors can visit the exhibition<br />

"Ars moriendi – the Art<br />

of Dying". It concentrates on the<br />

Dec 8, 12.00 <strong>The</strong> Flora Chamber<br />

Choir<br />

Dec 9, 18.00 Chamber Choir<br />

Studium Vocale<br />

Dec 15, 12.00 Tallinn Music High<br />

School<br />

Dec 18, 19.00 Christmas Concert<br />

St Nicholas’ Museum<br />

memorial, funeral and sepulchral<br />

cultures of medieval and Early<br />

Modern periods. Perhaps it seems<br />

weird to talk about death in the<br />

joyful month of December. Whatever,<br />

Ars moriendi is most fascinating<br />

<strong>The</strong> St Nicholas’ Church<br />

museum is part of the Art Museum<br />

of Estonia. ■


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 sightseeing in Tallinn<br />

23<br />

Must-see sights of Tallinn<br />

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site in 1997.<br />

IN THE OLD TOWN:<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri<br />

and Väike-Kloostri allow access to<br />

Nunna Tower and from there, access<br />

to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.<br />

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda).<br />

Northern Europe’s best-preserved<br />

medieval town hall square was built<br />

at the beginning of the 1400s.<br />

Town Hall Square<br />

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s<br />

Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster)<br />

is the oldest building in Tallinn.<br />

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399<br />

for the Brotherhood of Blackheads<br />

and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> Town Hall Pharmacy<br />

(Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest<br />

pharmacies, which still operates in<br />

its original location in the Town Hall<br />

Square.<br />

Town Hall Pharmacy<br />

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN:<br />

■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak).<br />

This square holds great symbolic<br />

importance and is located just south<br />

of the Old Town. <strong>The</strong> pillar located<br />

at the edge of the square, consists<br />

of a large pedestal with the Cross of<br />

Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top.<br />

This monument reads: “Estonian War<br />

of Independence 1918–1920”. On<br />

its other side in a the Freedom Bell<br />

(Vabaduse kell).<br />

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses<br />

the Presidential Palace and the palace<br />

of Peter the Great, where today<br />

the KUMU Art Museum stands. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are plenty of other things to see as<br />

well, in this beautiful and prestigious<br />

park. From the Kadriorg Palace head<br />

straight along the park trail to the<br />

Rusalka monument, located at the<br />

shore of the Gulf of Finland.<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> Tallinn Song Festival Grounds<br />

(Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960,<br />

this amphitheatre can hold more<br />

than 30 000 singers. <strong>The</strong>se grounds<br />

played an important part of the<br />

process that led to the restoration of<br />

Estonian independence, the initial<br />

phase in the Singing Revolution.<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent<br />

(Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita<br />

Beach, this monastery was built in<br />

1407 during the Swedish occupation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> convent was destroyed by Ivan<br />

the Terrible’s troops in 1577.<br />

■ <strong>The</strong> Tallinn Botanical Gardens.<br />

4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares<br />

of greenhouses, and parks, the<br />

Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the<br />

summer and winter.<br />

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90<br />

hectares, this zoo houses many rare<br />

<strong>The</strong> snow-covered Song Festival Grounds<br />

Toompea Castle<br />

species as well as many large mammals,<br />

including elephants, polar<br />

bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros.<br />

Located opposite the Rocca al Mare<br />

Shopping Centre.<br />

■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is<br />

the area to visit if you want to get<br />

a taste for old Tallinn. <strong>The</strong> wooden<br />

houses are typical of those built in<br />

the 1920s and 30s, during the first<br />

period of Estonian independence. In<br />

recent years, this area has become<br />

quite bohemian, with many artists,<br />

and young entrepreneurs taking up<br />

residence here.<br />

■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie<br />

glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison<br />

life. For a small entrance fee you<br />

can take a self-guided tour through<br />

the dark halls of this old sea fortress<br />

that has served as barracks, and then<br />

as a prison during Soviet times.<br />

Patarei Prison<br />

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Tallinn with a view<br />

<strong>The</strong> old town of Tallinn is divided<br />

into a lower and upper part. <strong>The</strong><br />

lower town was inhabited by hanseatic<br />

traders and the upper town, or<br />

Toompea was inhabited by nobility.<br />

<strong>The</strong> lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town<br />

can be seen from viewing platforms<br />

at Toompea. <strong>The</strong> best view<br />

of Toompea is from the tower of St.<br />

Olaf’s Church.<br />

■ 1 Kohtu Platform<br />

<strong>The</strong> Kohtu street platform offers the<br />

best view of the Old Town and is a<br />

must-see. After a visit to the platform,<br />

the likelihood of getting lost in the<br />

labyrinth-like streets of the lower<br />

town is smaller. <strong>The</strong> impressive<br />

tower of the Niguliste Church seems<br />

at arms length. <strong>The</strong> gracious spire of<br />

the medieval City Hall has an Oriental<br />

touch and resembles that of the<br />

Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy<br />

Spirit). <strong>The</strong> red tiled roofs with white<br />

edges are characteristic of Tallinn.<br />

■ 2 Patkul Platform<br />

<strong>The</strong> Patkul platform shows both a<br />

view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of<br />

the city wall. <strong>The</strong> church used to be<br />

even taller in medieval times and was<br />

actually the tallest building in the<br />

world in its time. Nowhere else can<br />

you see the city wall from a better<br />

angel. <strong>The</strong> harbour and the sea are<br />

lying just in front. <strong>The</strong> Patkul stairs<br />

take you more or less to the city centre,<br />

and to the Tallinn railway station.<br />

Take a look to the left, and parallel<br />

with the platform you will see the<br />

pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of<br />

the Estonian government. Tallinn<br />

■ 3 Kiriku Platform<br />

<strong>The</strong> platform at the end of Kiriku<br />

Street faces west and offers a view<br />

A quick history of the<br />

city of Tallinn<br />

<strong>The</strong> name Tallinn originates from the Danish<br />

occupation (1219–).<br />

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.<br />

1346 <strong>The</strong> Danish sell Tallinn to the German<br />

Order. Toompea was divided amongst<br />

princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown<br />

and craftsmen in the lowertown.<br />

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.<br />

1721 <strong>The</strong> Russians conquer Estonia and<br />

Tallinn.<br />

1918 Estonia declares independence and<br />

Tallinn becomes its capital.<br />

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy<br />

Tallinn.<br />

1944 <strong>The</strong> Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in<br />

March and causes extensive damage.<br />

1400 people are killed.<br />

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital<br />

2<br />

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of splendid and romantic sunsets.<br />

<strong>The</strong> area is more genuine, calm, and<br />

bohemian than around other platforms.<br />

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■ 4 Best of both worlds<br />

Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church<br />

and you will discover not only the<br />

lower town beneath but also the<br />

magnificent palaces facing the<br />

slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the<br />

upper town.<br />

■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk<br />

Hermann Tower.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Toompea Tower (15th century)<br />

and the blue, black, and white<br />

Estonian flag signify independence<br />

and freedom for Estonians. <strong>The</strong><br />

46-meter tower is best seen if you<br />

walk downhill from Lossi plats square<br />

along Falgi Street. Now, turn around,<br />

look up and the impressive wall of<br />

the medieval fortification with the<br />

Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will<br />

greet you!<br />

and hosts the sailing competitions of<br />

the 1980 Moscow Olympics.<br />

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital.<br />

In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site.<br />

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of<br />

Culture along with Turu. Its population<br />

is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians,<br />

38% Russians, 9% Other.<br />

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24<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4,<br />

Tallinn<br />

Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu<br />

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu<br />

Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva<br />

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere<br />

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide<br />

Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina<br />

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva<br />

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare<br />

Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla<br />

Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu<br />

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi<br />

Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää<br />

Valga: Kesk 11, Valga<br />

Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi<br />

Võru: Jüri 12, Võru<br />

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla<br />

Holidays<br />

1 January –<br />

New Year’s Day<br />

24 February –<br />

Independence Day<br />

Easter Good Friday<br />

1 May – Spring Holiday;<br />

Pentecost;<br />

23 June – Victory Day;<br />

24 June – Midsummer’s Day;<br />

20 August –<br />

Re-independence Day;<br />

24 December –<br />

Christmas Eve;<br />

25 December –<br />

Christmas Day;<br />

26 December –<br />

Boxing Day<br />

<strong>The</strong> work day preceding<br />

New Year’s Day,<br />

Independence Day, Victory<br />

Day, and Christmas Day is<br />

reduced by three hours.<br />

2012/2013<br />

School Holidays<br />

Christmas break<br />

22 December, 2012 -<br />

6 January, 2013<br />

Spring break<br />

16-24 March, 2013<br />

Summer break<br />

5 June - 31 August, 2013<br />

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin<br />

TALLINN<br />

www.visitestonia.com<br />

Tartu<br />

EMBASSIES<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn<br />

+372 627 8740<br />

BELGIUM<br />

Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123<br />

Tallinn, +372 627 4100<br />

BULGARIA<br />

A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn<br />

+372 648 0388<br />

CANADA<br />

Toom-Kooli 13, 10130<br />

Tallinn, +372 627 3311<br />

CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn<br />

+372 627 4400<br />

DENMARK<br />

Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn<br />

+372 630 6400<br />

How to make a phone call<br />

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia<br />

■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to<br />

another country:<br />

+ (country code)(phone number)<br />

■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then<br />

the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222.<br />

■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may<br />

be omitted. For example, 777 7777.<br />

WIFI Networks<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee.<br />

Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet<br />

hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of<br />

them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of<br />

charge. <strong>The</strong> Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and<br />

bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password<br />

may be required to access the free network.<br />

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it<br />

may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service<br />

provider.<br />

useful information<br />

FINLAND<br />

Kohtu 4, 10130<br />

Tallinn, +372 610 3200<br />

FRANCE<br />

Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122<br />

Tallinn, +372 616 1600<br />

GEORGIA<br />

Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn<br />

+372 698 8590<br />

GERMANY<br />

Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048<br />

Tallinn, +372 627 5303<br />

GREECE<br />

Pärnu mnt 12, 10148<br />

Tallinn, +372 640 3560<br />

HUNGARY<br />

Narva mnt 122, 13628<br />

Tallinn, +372 605 1880<br />

■ Useful Phrases<br />

ICELAND<br />

Tõnismägi 3A, 10119<br />

Tallinn, +372 640 8711<br />

IRELAND<br />

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn<br />

+372 681 1888<br />

ITALY<br />

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn<br />

+372 627 6160<br />

LATVIA<br />

Tõnismägi 10, 10119<br />

Tallinn, +372 627 7850<br />

LITHUANIA<br />

Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn<br />

+372 631 4030<br />

NETHERLAND<br />

Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn<br />

Tel. +372 680 5500<br />

please ...........................................palun<br />

thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan<br />

excuse me ..................................vabandage<br />

hello..............................................tere, tervist<br />

good morning ..........................tere hommikust<br />

good day.....................................tere päevast<br />

good evening............................tere õhtust<br />

good night .................................head ööd<br />

goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega<br />

all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat<br />

have a good trip .......................head reisi<br />

bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu<br />

cheers, to your health ............terviseks<br />

Event Tickets<br />

NORWAY<br />

Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn<br />

+372 627 1000<br />

POLAND<br />

Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn<br />

+372 627 8206<br />

PORTUGAL<br />

Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn<br />

+372 611 7468<br />

RUSSIA<br />

Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn<br />

+372 646 4175<br />

SWEDEN<br />

Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn<br />

+372 640 5600<br />

Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi,<br />

Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.<br />

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee)<br />

On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found<br />

in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations.<br />

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) <strong>The</strong> website is available<br />

in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets<br />

can be found in theatres and supermarkets.<br />

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found<br />

in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.<br />

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?<br />

Do you have…? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?<br />

where is… ............................................ kus on…<br />

What is this?......................................... mis see on?<br />

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?<br />

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?<br />

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb?<br />

not bad .................................................. pole viga!<br />

nice to see you/to meet you .......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda<br />

it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda<br />

What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?<br />

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt<br />

Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt?<br />

/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?<br />

THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

TURKEY<br />

Narva mnt. 30, 10152<br />

Tallinn, +372 627 2880<br />

UKRAINE<br />

Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn<br />

+372 601 5815<br />

UNITED KINGDOM<br />

Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn<br />

+372 667 4700<br />

UNITED STATES<br />

OF AMERICA<br />

Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn<br />

+372 668 8100<br />

Accepted in nearly 100 locations,<br />

the Tallinn Card gives you<br />

free entrance and discounts.<br />

Tallinn Card is available at:<br />

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks,<br />

Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from<br />

A and D terminals at the Port of<br />

Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn<br />

hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.<br />

■ Medical Centres<br />

and Pharmacies<br />

24H Pharmacy<br />

Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn<br />

Tel. +372 644 2282<br />

Mustamäe Medical Centre<br />

Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn<br />

Tel.+372 659 8318<br />

Keskhaigla Medical Centre<br />

Ravi 18, Tallinn<br />

Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070<br />

■ Post Office<br />

Tallinn Post Office<br />

Narva mnt 1, Tallinn<br />

Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17<br />

Tel. +372 617 7037<br />

24<br />

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres<br />

Hours of Operation<br />

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.<br />

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.<br />

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.<br />

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.<br />

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.<br />

Mustikas keskus,<br />

A. H.Tammsaare tee 116.<br />

Solaris, Estonia pst 9.<br />

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.<br />

Foorum, Narva mnt 5.<br />

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.<br />

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.<br />

Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.<br />

Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.<br />

SadaMarket, Kai 5.<br />

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.<br />

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.<br />

■ Currency Exchange<br />

Debit and credit cards are widely<br />

accepted throughout Estonia,<br />

especially VISA and Mastercard.<br />

American Express is not as<br />

widely accepted.<br />

Currency can be exchanged in<br />

banks throughout the country.<br />

Major Estonian banks include:<br />

LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and<br />

Nordea. <strong>The</strong>re is a wide network<br />

of ATMs in major cities and<br />

smaller towns. Currency can<br />

also be exchanged at Eurex,<br />

and Tavid.


THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />

Tallinn city centre<br />

25<br />

LIST OF STREETS<br />

Linda Line terminal<br />

Nõmme tee C1<br />

Nunne A1<br />

Odra C3<br />

Õilme C2<br />

Olevimägi A2<br />

Oleviste A2<br />

Oru A5<br />

Paadi A3<br />

Pae C5<br />

Pagari A2<br />

Paldiski mnt B1<br />

Pallasti C4<br />

Pärna B3<br />

Pärnu mnt B2<br />

Peterburi tee C4<br />

Piiskopi B1<br />

Pikk jalg B2<br />

Pirita tee A5<br />

Planeedi C1<br />

Põhja puiestee A2<br />

Poska B4<br />

Pronksi B3<br />

Pühavaimu B2<br />

Puhke C2<br />

Rahukohtu B1<br />

Rannamäe tee A1<br />

Rannamäe tee A2<br />

Rataskaevu B2<br />

Raua B3<br />

Rävala pst B2<br />

Ravi C2<br />

Roheline Aas B4<br />

Rohu B1<br />

Roopa B1<br />

Roosikrantsi B2<br />

Rumbi A2<br />

Rüütli B2<br />

Sadama A2<br />

Sakala B2<br />

Salme A1<br />

Saturni C1<br />

Sauna B2<br />

Sikupilli C4<br />

Soo A1<br />

Spordi C1<br />

Süda C2<br />

Sügise B1<br />

Suur-Ameerika C1<br />

Suur-Karja B2<br />

Suur-Kloostri A2<br />

Suur-Laagri A1<br />

Suur-Sõjamäe C5<br />

Suurtüki A2<br />

Tare C2<br />

Tartu mnt B3<br />

Tatari B2<br />

Tehnika B1<br />

Telliskivi A1<br />

Terase B3<br />

Tina B3<br />

Tobiase B3<br />

Tolli A2<br />

Tõllu A1<br />

Tõnismägi C2<br />

Toom-Kooli B1<br />

Toom-Kuninga C1<br />

Toom-Rüütli B1<br />

Toompea B1<br />

Toompuiestee B1<br />

Tööstuse A1<br />

Tormi A4<br />

Tuha C5<br />

Türnpu B4<br />

Turu B3<br />

Tuukri A3<br />

Tuulemäe C5<br />

Tuvi C1<br />

Ülemiste C4<br />

Uue Maailma C1<br />

Uus A2<br />

Vabriku A1<br />

Väike-Ameerika<br />

C1<br />

Väike-Karja B2<br />

Vaikne C2<br />

Vaimu A2<br />

Valge B5<br />

Valgevase A1<br />

Vana-kala maja A1<br />

Vana-Lõuna C2<br />

Vana-Viru B2<br />

Vase B3<br />

Veerenni C2<br />

Veetorni C1<br />

Vene B2<br />

Vesivärava B4<br />

Videviku C1<br />

Villardi B1<br />

Vilmsi B3<br />

Virmalise C1<br />

Virmalise C1<br />

Viru B2<br />

Võistluse C3<br />

Volta A1<br />

Weizenbergi A4<br />

Wiedemanni B4<br />

Wismari B1<br />

A.Alle A4<br />

Aasa C1<br />

Ääsi C5<br />

Adamsoni B1<br />

Ahtri A2<br />

Aia A2<br />

Aida A2<br />

Ao B1<br />

Asunduse B4<br />

Bensiini A4<br />

Eha B1<br />

Endla C1<br />

Estonia pst B2<br />

Faehlmanni B4<br />

Falgi tee B1<br />

Filtri tee C3<br />

Gildi C3<br />

Graniidi A1<br />

Hariduse B2<br />

Harju B2<br />

Hermanni B3<br />

Herne C2<br />

Herne C2<br />

Hobujaama B2<br />

Imanta C3<br />

Inseneri B2<br />

Invaliidi C2<br />

Jahu A2<br />

Jakobi C3<br />

Jakobsoni B3<br />

Jõe A3<br />

Juhkentali C3<br />

Kaarli pst B2<br />

Kadri tee A5<br />

Kai A2<br />

Kalamaja A1<br />

Kalaranna A2<br />

Kalaranna A2<br />

Kalju A1<br />

Kanuti A2<br />

Kappeli C4<br />

Karu A3<br />

Katusepapi C4<br />

Kauba D1<br />

Kauka B2<br />

Kauna C2<br />

Kaupmehe B2<br />

Keldrimäe C3<br />

Kentmanni B2<br />

Kevade B1<br />

Killustiku C5<br />

Kivimurru C4<br />

Kodu C2<br />

Kohtu B1<br />

Koidu B1<br />

Koidula B4<br />

Köleri B4<br />

Kollane B3<br />

Komeedi C1<br />

Kooli A2<br />

Kopli A1<br />

Kotka C1<br />

Kotzebue A1<br />

Kreutzwaldi B3<br />

Kristiina C1<br />

Kuhlbarsi B3<br />

Kunderi B3<br />

Kungla A1<br />

Kuninga B2<br />

Laagna tee B4<br />

Laagna tee B4<br />

Laboratoorimi A2<br />

Lahe A4<br />

Lai A2<br />

Laikmaa B2<br />

Lasnamäe B4<br />

Lasnamäe B4<br />

Lastekodu B3<br />

Laulupeo B3<br />

Lauteri B2<br />

Leigeri A1<br />

Lembitu B2<br />

Lennuki B2<br />

Liivalaia B3<br />

Liivamäe B3<br />

Logi A2<br />

Loode B1<br />

Lootsi A3<br />

Lossi plats B1<br />

Lubja C4<br />

Luha C1<br />

Luise B1<br />

Maakri B3<br />

Mäekalda B4<br />

Mäekalda B5<br />

Magasini C2<br />

Majaka C4<br />

Majaka põik C5<br />

Malmi A1<br />

Mardi C3<br />

Masina C4<br />

Mere pst A2<br />

Müürivahe B2<br />

Nafta A4<br />

Narva mnt A4<br />

Niguliste B2<br />

Niine A1<br />

Travel Port<br />

Terminal A, B, C<br />

SEAPLANE HARBOUR<br />

Terminal D<br />

Sadama<br />

Map of Old Town<br />

is on the next page.<br />

Train Station<br />

Kadriorg park<br />

--<br />

KUMU<br />

Bus Station<br />

AIRPORT (2km)<br />

Tartu mnt


26<br />

59˚00'<br />

58˚30'<br />

58˚00'<br />

Ilmatsalu<br />

Veeriku<br />

V E E R I K U<br />

Nisu<br />

Rukki<br />

Tartu, Tallinn Old Town and Estonia<br />

EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS<br />

Major Estonian Towns �����������<br />

Alev<br />

Maisi<br />

Nelgi<br />

Veeriku<br />

Tulbi<br />

Sangla<br />

Viljandi mnt<br />

M A A R J A M Õ I S A<br />

Palsami<br />

Aroonia<br />

Tervise<br />

Õhtu<br />

Nelgi<br />

DISTANCES<br />

LÄÄNEMAA<br />

Sõrve ps<br />

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007<br />

59˚30'<br />

Territoriaalmere piir<br />

23˚00'<br />

EKENÄS<br />

57˚30'<br />

Kruuskattega maantee<br />

24˚00'<br />

24˚00'<br />

Porkkala ps<br />

10 0 10 20 30 40 50 km<br />

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026<br />

Ust-Luga<br />

MAAKONNAD<br />

HARJUMAA LÄÄNE- IDA-<br />

VIRUMAA VIRUMAA<br />

HIIUMAA<br />

RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA<br />

JÕGEVAMAA<br />

PÄRNUMAA<br />

VILJANDIMAA<br />

SAAREMAA<br />

TARTUMAA<br />

PÕLVAMAA<br />

VALGAMAA<br />

VÕRUMAA<br />

22˚00'<br />

22˚00'<br />

KÄRDLA<br />

LOKSA<br />

NARVA-<br />

JÕESUU<br />

Haabneeme<br />

KUNDA KOHTLA-<br />

Viimsi<br />

TALLINN MAARDU<br />

Haljala<br />

JÄRVE SILLAMÄE NARVA<br />

Kuusalu<br />

Tabasalu<br />

Loo Kostivere<br />

Harku<br />

Lagedi<br />

KIVIÕLI PÜSSI<br />

PALDISKI Keila-<br />

Raasiku<br />

JÕHVI<br />

Jüri<br />

Joa<br />

KEHRA<br />

Kadrina<br />

Aruküla<br />

RAKVERE<br />

KEILA<br />

Klooga<br />

Kiili<br />

SAUE Saku<br />

TAPA<br />

Kiisa<br />

Prillimäe<br />

TAMSALU Väike-Maarja<br />

Iisaku<br />

Riisipere<br />

Turba<br />

Juuru<br />

Alu<br />

Risti<br />

RAPLA<br />

Kaiu<br />

Valtu<br />

Kuusiku<br />

Palivere<br />

HAAPSALU Taebla<br />

Keava<br />

Kehtna<br />

PAIDE<br />

Paralepa<br />

Väätsa<br />

MUSTVEE<br />

Lelle<br />

Käina<br />

Leisi Orissaare<br />

Aste<br />

Kärla<br />

KURESSAARE<br />

Salme<br />

Käru<br />

Särevere<br />

Laiuse<br />

TÜRI Oisu<br />

JÕGEVA<br />

Eidapere<br />

KALLASTE<br />

LIHULA<br />

PÕLTSAMAA<br />

VÕHMA<br />

Tabivere<br />

Are<br />

SUURE-<br />

JAANI<br />

Sauga<br />

Audru<br />

SINDI<br />

TARTU<br />

Paikuse<br />

PÄRNU<br />

VILJANDI<br />

Võnnu<br />

Nõo<br />

KILINGI-<br />

ELVA<br />

Võiste<br />

NÕMME<br />

Tihemetsa RÄPINA<br />

MÕISAKÜLA ABJA- KARKSI-<br />

Häädemeeste<br />

PALUOJA NUIA<br />

OTEPÄÄ<br />

PÕLVA<br />

Värska<br />

TÕRVA<br />

ANTSLA VÕRU<br />

VALGA<br />

22˚00'<br />

23˚00'<br />

Misso<br />

Linn<br />

Vallasisene linn<br />

TALLINN Pealinn<br />

Maakonna piir<br />

Riigipiir, kontrolljoon<br />

Põhimaantee<br />

Tugimaantee<br />

©REGIO 2008<br />

Riia 24, Tartu 51010<br />

tel +372 738 7300<br />

Alev-vald<br />

VILJANDI Maakonna keskus<br />

Tartu rahu piir<br />

Kõvakattega maantee<br />

Halliste<br />

HAAPSALU<br />

HANKO<br />

Hanko ps<br />

Vaindloo<br />

Väike - Tütarsaar Suur - Tütarsaar<br />

10 0 10 20 30<br />

Kurkula ps<br />

40 50 km<br />

175 IKLA<br />

347 288 KOIDULA<br />

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026<br />

84 148 335 KUIVASTU<br />

158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE<br />

Prangli<br />

Pärispea ps<br />

Juminda ps<br />

Käsmu ps<br />

56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA<br />

312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA<br />

108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU<br />

199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE<br />

9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA<br />

99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN<br />

249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU<br />

204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI<br />

300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU<br />

Tahkuna ps<br />

Kõrgessaare<br />

Kõpu ps<br />

Aegna<br />

Võsu<br />

Naissaar<br />

Viimsi ps<br />

Kolga<br />

Valkla<br />

Aseri<br />

Toila<br />

Kiiu<br />

Voka Sinimäe<br />

Uhtna<br />

IVANGOROD<br />

Pakri ps<br />

Hulja<br />

JAANILINN<br />

Assaku<br />

Sõmeru<br />

KOHTLA-<br />

Laagri<br />

Sonda NÕMME<br />

Lehtmetsa<br />

Lepna<br />

Osmussaar<br />

Pakri s-d<br />

AEGVIIDU<br />

Vaida<br />

Vinni<br />

Lehola<br />

Pajusti<br />

Lehtse<br />

Vasalemma<br />

Jäneda<br />

Põõsaspea n<br />

Kose-<br />

Viru-<br />

Mäetaguse<br />

Nõva Padise<br />

Harju-Risti Ääsmäe<br />

Alavere<br />

Uuemõisa<br />

Jaagupi<br />

Käravete<br />

Tudu<br />

KOHILA Oru<br />

Ravila<br />

Ambla Sääse<br />

Kose<br />

Albu<br />

Roela<br />

Hageri<br />

Aravete<br />

Vao<br />

SLANTSÕ<br />

Haiba<br />

Vajangu Kiltsi<br />

Ardu<br />

Tudulinna<br />

Hagudi<br />

Laekvere<br />

Roosna-<br />

VORMSI<br />

Simuna<br />

Kuimetsa<br />

Alliku<br />

Noarootsi ps<br />

JÄRVA-<br />

JAANI<br />

Rakke<br />

Avinurme<br />

Linnamäe<br />

Koeru<br />

Tarbja<br />

Lohusuu<br />

Orgita<br />

Peetri<br />

Koluvere<br />

MÄRJAMAA<br />

Sadala<br />

Kassari s<br />

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Vilsandi<br />

Valjala<br />

Nootamaa<br />

Kihelkonna<br />

Kudjape<br />

Abruka<br />

Kolka<br />

M U H U<br />

Ruhnu<br />

Virtsu<br />

Koigi<br />

Türi-Alliku<br />

Torma<br />

Vaimastvere<br />

Valgu<br />

Vana-Vigala<br />

GDOV<br />

JÄRVAKANDI<br />

Kuremaa<br />

OUDOVA<br />

Pisisaare<br />

Imavere<br />

Kabala<br />

Siimusti<br />

Palamuse<br />

Adavere<br />

VÄNDRA<br />

Lustivere<br />

Libatse<br />

Esku<br />

PÄRNU-<br />

Võisiku<br />

Väike-Kamari<br />

Alatskivi<br />

JAAGUPI<br />

TOOTSI<br />

Puurmani<br />

Kolkja<br />

Olustvere<br />

Kamari<br />

Spitsõno<br />

Kolga-Jaani<br />

Äksi Vara Koosa<br />

Selja<br />

LAVASSAARE<br />

Lähte<br />

Varnja<br />

Laeva<br />

Jõõpre<br />

Sürgavere<br />

Jamm<br />

Tori<br />

Vastemõisa<br />

Kõrveküla<br />

Ilmatsalu<br />

Papsaare<br />

Vana-<br />

Võidu<br />

Ulila<br />

Luunja<br />

Piirissaar<br />

Puhja<br />

Viiratsi<br />

Tõrvandi<br />

Melliste<br />

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Päri<br />

Võrtsjärv<br />

Ülenurme<br />

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Ramsi<br />

Tõravere<br />

Mehikoorma<br />

laht<br />

Kureküla<br />

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Kambja<br />

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Mustla<br />

Ahja<br />

Õisu<br />

Vastse-<br />

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Mooste<br />

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Manilaid<br />

Suislepa<br />

Rõngu<br />

Saarde<br />

Karksi<br />

Mammaste Himmaste Võõpsu<br />

Krootuse<br />

Kihnu<br />

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Saverna<br />

Linna<br />

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Peri<br />

Helme<br />

Veriora<br />

Kabli<br />

Kanepi<br />

PõlgasteTilsi<br />

Keeni<br />

Parksepa<br />

L Ä T I<br />

Õru Sangaste<br />

Osula<br />

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RÛJIENA<br />

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RUHJA<br />

Vana-Antsla<br />

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AINA�I<br />

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HEINASTE<br />

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PETSERI<br />

STAICELE<br />

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ALOJA<br />

Tsooru<br />

SALATSI<br />

Rõuge<br />

Irboska<br />

Matixi<br />

L I I V I L A H T<br />

Varstu<br />

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Tulbi<br />

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Taara pst<br />

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Laulupeo pst<br />

L.Koidula<br />

L.Puusepa<br />

Mardihansu<br />

laht<br />

J.Hurda<br />

Vikerkaare<br />

C.R.Jakobsoni<br />

J.Hurda<br />

Tervishoiu<br />

N.Lunini<br />

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Fr.R.Kreutzwaldi<br />

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J.Liivi<br />

Tamme pst<br />

Marja<br />

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Lepiku<br />

Marja<br />

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Kassitoome<br />

Vaksali<br />

Lembitu<br />

Raudtee<br />

Lai<br />

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Kungla<br />

Räni<br />

Räni p<br />

Kastani<br />

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Kartuli<br />

K.E.v.Baeri<br />

K.E.v.Baeri<br />

Toomemägi<br />

Lossi<br />

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Hari kurk<br />

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Vallikraavi<br />

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Tamme<br />

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Pepleri<br />

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Küütri<br />

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Kesk<br />

Sõbra<br />

Alevi<br />

Sid<br />

Poe<br />

Küüni<br />

Riia<br />

Tähe<br />

Koidu<br />

Lootuse<br />

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Vaba<br />

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Urva<br />

Emajõgi<br />

Uueturu<br />

Kesk<br />

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Kalevi<br />

Punga<br />

Päeva<br />

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Kuu<br />

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Leete<br />

Roosi<br />

Ü L E J Õ E<br />

Vaba<br />

K A R L O V A<br />

Saekoja<br />

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Kivi Kivi<br />

Turu<br />

Soola<br />

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