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ENGLISH EDITION/DECEMBER 2012<br />
SEE MUSE LIVE IN<br />
TALLINN DECEMBER 11!<br />
WWW.BALTICGUIDE.EE<br />
Your Your free free guide guide to to Estonia Estonia<br />
Christmas hristmas<br />
in Estonia<br />
Restaurants /Culture / Shopping / Getting Around /History<br />
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(tel. 6616007 gsm +372 56820045)<br />
VIIMSI SPA OPTIKA – Randvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Tallinn<br />
(tel. 6011570 gsm +372 56880957)<br />
STOCK OPTIKA - Tartu mnt 18 (tel. 6620240 gsm+372 56820044)<br />
across from Stockmann<br />
PLUSS-MIINUS OPTIKA – Narva mnt. 11D, Tallinn (tel. 6261336)<br />
gsm +372 5682004 (entrance through the courtyard)<br />
Eye doctors: Galina Beloussova and Juta Jask, service in Finnish and English<br />
www.optiline.ee<br />
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THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 editorial<br />
5<br />
<strong>The</strong> holidays<br />
are truly a<br />
magical time<br />
in Estonia. This season gives you a glimpse into the<br />
old peasant traditions associated with this time of<br />
year. According to the Estonian folk calendar, the<br />
Christmas season begins on December 21, with St.<br />
Thomas Day, and ends on January 6, <strong>The</strong> Epiphany.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Christmas season was traditionally celebrated<br />
from December 25-27, and the most important<br />
celebration was Christmas Eve, December 24. This<br />
still continues today.<br />
<strong>The</strong> word Jõulud, meaning Christmas in Estonian,<br />
comes from the old Scandinavian word Jul. <strong>The</strong><br />
association of Christmas with Jesus Christ is relatively<br />
recent. Christmas marked the Winter Solstice, the<br />
shortest day and the longest night. It reflected<br />
the customs and traditions of the peasants, where<br />
certain tasks had to be performed during this<br />
period, and other tasks were banned. For example,<br />
milling, spinning, and quilling were banned, as it was<br />
thought that they were too noisy and would disturb<br />
the “good spirits.”<br />
Pigs were slaughtered and homemade ale and<br />
mead were brewed. <strong>The</strong> pork was served as a roast<br />
with sauerkraut. Blood sausages and sült (headchee-<br />
DECEMBER 2012<br />
Managing Director: Jane Konga<br />
Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp<br />
kristina@balticguide.ee<br />
Design: Kristi Möls<br />
Photography: Andrei Chertkov<br />
Old and new traditions<br />
se) were prepared, and bread was made. <strong>The</strong>se culinary<br />
traditions still continue today. Christmas straw<br />
would be brought into the house, and Christmas<br />
crowns made.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Christmas tree is also a recent tradition,<br />
introduced by the <strong>Baltic</strong> German nobility in the<br />
middle of the 19th century. <strong>The</strong> manor house lords<br />
would throw Christmas parties for the servants and<br />
their families. <strong>The</strong> tree would be decorated with toys,<br />
candies, and candles.<br />
During the Soviet Period, Christmas was banned.<br />
New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day were the only official<br />
holidays during this period. However, Christmas<br />
continued to be celebrated unofficially with family<br />
meals in the home on Christmas Eve, and the lighting<br />
of candles on the graves of family members. At<br />
the end of the Soviet period, Christmas trees began<br />
to appear in homes once again.<br />
On December 24, the President of Estonia declares<br />
peace, a 350-year-old tradition that still continues<br />
today.<br />
Happy Holidays!<br />
Kristina Lupp<br />
Editor-in chief<br />
01 GLAMOUR, CABARET STYLE<br />
See pop stars Gerli Padar and Tanja Mihhailovat starring in the Tartu Vanemuise <strong>The</strong>atre’s<br />
Cabaret musical. This glamorous musical premiered at the end of October. In Tallinn you<br />
can see the Cabaret on December 15, and January 4, at the Nokia Concert Hall.<br />
02 VIENNESE WALTZES IN TALLINN<br />
<strong>The</strong> famous Johan Strauss Orchestra from Vienna will be performing at the Russian<br />
Cultural Centre in Tallinn on December 12. Peter Guth will conduct the orchestra. <strong>The</strong> program<br />
will include classical favourites, and of course, waltzes. Monika Mosser will perform<br />
a solo.<br />
03 CHINESE CIRCUS PRINCESSES<br />
<strong>The</strong> Chinese circus will visit Tallinn in December. You can see these skilled performers show off their traditions in one of<br />
their four performances: December 9 at the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn, December 10 at the Vanemuise Concert Hall in Tartu,<br />
December 11 at the Rugadiv Cultural House in Narva, and December 12 at the Pärnu Concert Hall.<br />
04 ENCHANTING BALLET<br />
December 25 brings the Moscow City Ballet to the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn to perform Pjotr Tšaikovski’s classic ballet, Swan<br />
Lake. Tickets to this world renowned performance are available from Piletilevi ticket kiosks.<br />
05 BYGONE CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS<br />
From December 14-16, the Tallinn Open Air Museum will have a traditional Christmas village. At the village, visitors can<br />
see traditional Estonian Christmas customs. At the Open Air Museum’s post office, taste Christmas treats, and find items to<br />
fill Santa’s bag with, at the Christmas market.<br />
Pick up your free copy at:<br />
PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel,<br />
Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel,<br />
Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel,<br />
Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa<br />
Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton<br />
Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic<br />
Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel,<br />
Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson<br />
Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park<br />
Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos<br />
Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni<br />
Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel,<br />
Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von<br />
Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss<br />
Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market,<br />
Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information,<br />
Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus<br />
Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita<br />
Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O<br />
'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika<br />
Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU<br />
Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand<br />
Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking,<br />
Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel,<br />
London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu<br />
Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN<br />
ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel,<br />
Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information,<br />
Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare<br />
Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel<br />
Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN<br />
ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva<br />
Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff<br />
Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa <strong>The</strong>resa,<br />
Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House<br />
Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn,<br />
Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers<br />
Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, <strong>The</strong> Blue<br />
Cow Backpackers Hostel, <strong>The</strong> Naughty Squirrel<br />
Backpackers Hostel<br />
Contents<br />
5 editorial 6-7 transport 8 Christmas events 10 -11 restaurants<br />
12-13 shopping 14 children's activities 16-17outside of Tallinn 18 beauty<br />
19 museums 20 -21 nightlife g 22 history y<br />
12-13<br />
shopping<br />
Holiday shopping guide<br />
Your CComments<br />
ABOUT ESTONIA<br />
Area: 45,227 km2.<br />
Population: about 1,350,000.<br />
Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.<br />
Independence: 24 February, 1918,<br />
Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.<br />
Weather: Average temperature July 16°C,<br />
February -9°C.<br />
Time zone: GMT +2<br />
Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the<br />
mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.<br />
Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious,<br />
30 % Lutheran,<br />
28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.<br />
Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club<br />
and American Express are widely accepted.<br />
Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz,<br />
European (Type C) plug.<br />
10-11<br />
restaurants<br />
r<br />
MEKK M<br />
Kuldse K Notsu Kõrts<br />
Liisu L Juures<br />
Eesti E Söögituba<br />
NOP N<br />
Talu T Kõrts<br />
■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our<br />
content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to:<br />
kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25,<br />
10415, Tallinn.<br />
Photo: Andrei Chertkov<br />
Tallinn Christmas Market in the Town<br />
Hall Square. Story on page 8-9<br />
18<br />
beauty<br />
Winter haircare<br />
Contact Information<br />
Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,<br />
tel +372 611 77 60<br />
e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee<br />
Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen<br />
tel +372 58 50 2472<br />
Follow us on
Free shot of<br />
liqueur<br />
when you order<br />
a schnitzel.<br />
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New location:<br />
Rüütli 28/30, Old Town<br />
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THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD<br />
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6 THE<br />
BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
1 2<br />
1 2<br />
KOPLI<br />
ROCCA<br />
AL MARE<br />
PELGU-<br />
RANNA<br />
TICKETS AND ROUTES MERIMETSA<br />
Tallinn city transportation tickets can<br />
be purchased in advance from kiosks<br />
or directly from the driver. One hour,<br />
three-day and five-day tickets are<br />
available. Tickets must be validated at<br />
the beginning of the journey. Persons<br />
travelling without a ticket are subject<br />
to a 40€ fine.<br />
Further information on routes and<br />
timetables:<br />
http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/<br />
TALLINN CITY TOUR<br />
Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker<br />
bus. Simultaneous translation in 10<br />
different languages.<br />
Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h<br />
on three different lines.<br />
KOPLI<br />
■ Transport<br />
KALAMAJA<br />
PELGU-<br />
LINN<br />
MERIMETSA<br />
PELGULINN<br />
RAILWAY<br />
STATION<br />
OLD TOWN<br />
■ Customs Regulations<br />
Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited<br />
amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.<br />
KALAMAJA<br />
12<br />
PORT<br />
VEERENNI<br />
ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH<br />
WARNINGS.<br />
IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:<br />
200 CIGARETTES OR 200G<br />
OF LOOSE TOBACCO<br />
Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry<br />
up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.<br />
■ Airport and Port Transfers<br />
Getting to the port:<br />
<strong>The</strong> distance between the Viru<br />
Shopping Centre and the port<br />
is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get<br />
you there, and pass by the airport<br />
as well. <strong>The</strong> Mõigu Bus Line<br />
also passes through the port.<br />
For more information and timetables<br />
visit: http://soiduplaan.<br />
tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab.<br />
<strong>The</strong> name of the Viru Shopping<br />
Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.<br />
Tickets are available on the bus<br />
for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.<br />
11 VIRU<br />
OLD TOWN 6<br />
13<br />
AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K<br />
This is the best way to travel between the airport and the<br />
city centre. <strong>The</strong>se blue buses are easily recognised with<br />
the airplane ticket image on the outside. <strong>The</strong>re is space<br />
for luggage. <strong>The</strong> bus stops at various hotels, main attractions<br />
and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2€. www.hansabuss.ee,<br />
http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus<br />
5<br />
10<br />
3 4<br />
TONDI<br />
Free Bus from the Port<br />
<strong>The</strong> Viking Line offers a free<br />
shuttle service to and from the<br />
city. <strong>The</strong> name of the bus stop<br />
is Mere puiestee, opposite the<br />
Viru Shopping Centre. <strong>The</strong> bus<br />
departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket<br />
has a free bus that also<br />
passes through the port terminals<br />
everyday between 10–17. Please<br />
consult the website for departure<br />
times: www.prismamarket.ee/<br />
prismabuss.php?lang=fin<br />
tram routes<br />
A, B<br />
terminals<br />
9<br />
7<br />
4<br />
14<br />
VEERENNI<br />
KADRIORG<br />
SIKUPILLI<br />
15<br />
3<br />
getting<br />
airport<br />
PORT<br />
BUS<br />
STATION<br />
8D<br />
terminal<br />
2<br />
16<br />
PIRITA<br />
LASNAMÄE<br />
KADRIORG<br />
SIKUPILLI<br />
2 4<br />
ÜLEMISTE<br />
17<br />
1 90K<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Red Line - City Centre<br />
Green Line - Pirita<br />
Blue Line - Rocca al Mare<br />
Tour routes last approximately<br />
one hour. All services begin at<br />
Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.<br />
www.citytour.ee<br />
■ BY BUS:<br />
Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com ■ BY TRAIN:<br />
Tallinn Central Bus Station<br />
(Tallinna Autobussijaam)<br />
Lastekodu 46, Tallinn<br />
www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee<br />
From the bus station to the city:<br />
Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee<br />
Linda Line Express -<br />
www.lindaline.ee<br />
TO/FROM STOCKHOLM<br />
Train Station (Balti jaam)<br />
Toompuistee 37, Tallinn<br />
From the train station to the city:<br />
tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute<br />
walk to the Old Town<br />
tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com<br />
www.edel.ee<br />
Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee<br />
TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG www.gorail.ee<br />
Hansabuss Business Line –<br />
www.businessline.ee<br />
St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com<br />
Lux Express –<br />
■ BY AIR:<br />
www.luxexpress.eu<br />
Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport<br />
Temptrans –<br />
www.temptrans.ee<br />
(Lennujaam)<br />
Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn<br />
■ BY SEA:<br />
From the airport to the city: bus<br />
no. 2, no. 90K<br />
From the Port of Tallinn to the<br />
www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng<br />
city/airport: bus no. 2<br />
FAST CLASS By Copterline –<br />
TO/FROM HELSINKI<br />
www.copterline.ee Travel<br />
between Tallinn and Helsinki City<br />
Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee<br />
Centres, from the Port.<br />
3<br />
4<br />
113 3<br />
24<br />
Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without<br />
permission. Live animals and plants, as well as<br />
rare animal and plant species and also require special<br />
permission. Firearms and other weapons are<br />
prohibited.<br />
Pirated materials are prohibited.<br />
Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller:<br />
http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089<br />
Getting to the Airport<br />
<strong>The</strong> distance between the Viru Shopping<br />
Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. <strong>The</strong><br />
no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule<br />
can be found at http://soiduplaan.<br />
tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. <strong>The</strong> name of the Viru<br />
Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa<br />
and the airport stop is called Lennujaam.<br />
Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or<br />
from R-kiosks for 1€. <strong>The</strong> no 90K bus operates<br />
between Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport<br />
and centrally located Tallinn hotels. It runs<br />
from 7:20am until 6:40pm every 20 min<br />
daily. A one-way ticket costs 2€.
around THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 20127<br />
��Hire a car<br />
You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city<br />
of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside<br />
and explore small towns. If you are arriving by<br />
plane, your most convenient option is to use one of<br />
the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:<br />
Budget – www.budget.ee<br />
Europcar – www.europcar.ee<br />
Hertz – www.hertz.ee<br />
National – www.europcar.ee<br />
Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are many other companies to use in Tallinn,<br />
some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option<br />
to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information<br />
on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this<br />
guide or visit www.mnt.ee.<br />
Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee<br />
Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee<br />
Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee<br />
Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee<br />
Useful Information<br />
No international driver’s license required.<br />
It is important for drivers to follow the<br />
following regulations:<br />
� Blood alcohol level must be 0.<br />
� Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections<br />
and cyclists.<br />
� <strong>The</strong> speed limit in towns is usually 50 km /<br />
h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds<br />
will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the<br />
speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110<br />
km / h, but only in summer.<br />
PUHELINNUMEROT: Important Phone Numbers: POLIISI POLICE 110, 110, PELASTUSTOIMI EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE AUTOABI 1888 (24 h) H).<br />
USEFUL VOCABULARY<br />
<strong>The</strong> car has broken down . . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Auto läks katki<br />
<strong>The</strong> car has run out of petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bensiin sai otsa<br />
Here is an accident. .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Siin on avarii<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is a block in the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teel on ummik<br />
Where is the car repair?. .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?<br />
<strong>The</strong> first 15 minutes of parking are free when<br />
using a parking clock. This does not apply in<br />
parking lots.<br />
Parking tickets can be purchased from a<br />
kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must<br />
state the year, month, day, hour, and minute<br />
of purchase.<br />
Shopping centres are equipped with an<br />
automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn,<br />
most parking lots are paid.<br />
Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking<br />
may result in a fine of 20€. If the parked<br />
car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64€,<br />
with the possibility of it being towed. In this<br />
case, please contact the city police 14410.<br />
���Tallinn Taxis<br />
��Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi<br />
company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information<br />
and photo.<br />
��For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel<br />
and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost<br />
about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount<br />
may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares,<br />
please visit: www.taksod.net<br />
�������������<br />
����������<br />
����<br />
���<br />
����<br />
��It pays to be careful when choosing<br />
a taxi, because some companies<br />
have much higher rates than others.<br />
Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear<br />
window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. <strong>The</strong><br />
minimum fee must be displayed on the price<br />
list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing<br />
rate. <strong>The</strong> cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter<br />
rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.<br />
Parking in Tallinn<br />
�����������<br />
�����������<br />
��������<br />
�����<br />
����������<br />
� All cars must carry a warning triangle,<br />
wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher.<br />
Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest<br />
when stopped at night.<br />
� In case of collision, and in the event of injury,<br />
it is advisable to call the police. Insurance<br />
documents and driver information should<br />
be exchanged.<br />
� Parking and speeding fines will still be<br />
charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay<br />
fines on time to avoid penalty.<br />
Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you<br />
are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple<br />
in value.<br />
Please read the signs carefully.<br />
<strong>The</strong> first 15 minutes are free at:<br />
� Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€<br />
Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.<br />
Free on Sundays.<br />
� City Centre 15 min / 0,58€<br />
Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.<br />
Free on Sundays.<br />
� Old Town 15 min / 1,15€<br />
Payment required 24h, 7 days.<br />
Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver<br />
does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If<br />
you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make<br />
note of the car registration number, date of<br />
journey, and the name of the taxi company.<br />
����� ������<br />
������<br />
�����������<br />
����������<br />
�����������<br />
�����������<br />
���������<br />
�� If you feel that you have been<br />
cheated, you may send complaints to:<br />
tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or <strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong><br />
<strong>Guide</strong>: editorial@balticguide.ee.<br />
Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.<br />
����������� ��From the airport to the city centre,<br />
a taxi will cost between 7-10€<br />
with the following taxi companies:<br />
Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink<br />
Takso. <strong>The</strong>se three taxi companies have a<br />
contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be<br />
waiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue.<br />
INDIAN RESTAURANT<br />
Come and enjoy exotic Kerala,<br />
Thai and European dishes!<br />
<strong>The</strong> restaurant's owner is from Kerala in<br />
Southern India.<br />
Excellent prices<br />
Irish coffee 4����Vodka 2€<br />
Vana-Tallinn 2����Beer 2.50€<br />
House Wine 2.90����Appetisers 2€<br />
Grilled Salmon 9.90����Grilled Duck Fillet 11€<br />
Pepper Steak 11����South Indian chicken curry 7€<br />
Rüütli 18, Tallinn<br />
Tel. 742 2828<br />
ahadeli.tallinn@gmail.com<br />
www.tbilisi.ee<br />
Restaurant/Pub<br />
Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square<br />
Open Everyday 11-23<br />
Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)<br />
Voorimehe<br />
Pikk<br />
Kinga<br />
Dunkri<br />
Kullassepa<br />
Mündi<br />
Saiakang<br />
Town Hall<br />
Square<br />
Raekoja<br />
Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och<br />
sista när man beger sig till havs!<br />
<strong>The</strong> first place to come when You arrive and the<br />
last place to visit before leaving!<br />
Massor av härliga<br />
smakupplevelser!<br />
Taste one of<br />
our delicious<br />
dishes!<br />
Öppet/Open:<br />
varje dag/every day 8-19.<br />
Köket öppet från kl/<br />
<strong>The</strong> kitchen open from 8.<br />
Vanaturu<br />
kael<br />
Apteegi<br />
Open: Mon - Wed 12- 23, Thu - Sat 12 - 01, Sun 12 - 23<br />
Sadamarket Shopping Centrum<br />
1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.<br />
Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee,<br />
www.seitsemerd.ee<br />
Vene<br />
Viru<br />
Levande musik varje dag/<br />
Live music every day 12-15
8<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
Christmas in Tallinn<br />
<strong>The</strong> holidays are a magical time in Estonia, especially in the capital city. Enjoy festive concerts, traditional<br />
Christmas markets, delicious Estonian Christmas food, and of course a glass or two of mulled wine!<br />
TOP JAZZ<br />
performer in Tallinn<br />
In December, Grammy winner<br />
Kurt Elling, together with the<br />
Estonian Dream Big Band will<br />
perform in Tallinn.<br />
Kurt Elling has fascinated listeners<br />
worldwide, as one of the<br />
top male singers in jazz. It was<br />
only last year that Elling performed<br />
in Finland, for a show that<br />
sold quickly.<br />
Elling’s style is clean and unique.<br />
His trademark is his masterful<br />
use of his baritone voice over<br />
four octaves. In addition to the<br />
use of his voice, Ellington’s per-<br />
formances are very enjoyable. He<br />
certainly knows how to hold the<br />
attention of the crowd. His 2009<br />
album, Dedicated To You won a<br />
Grammy.<br />
In Tallinn, he will perform<br />
with the Estonian Dream Big<br />
Band, which is made up of some<br />
of Estonia’s best jazz musicians.<br />
Tickets start at 25€, and are<br />
available from Ticketpro and Piletilevi.<br />
■<br />
Kurt Elling and the Estonian<br />
Dream Big Band, December 12<br />
Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn B2.<br />
Gingerbread!<br />
All the best gingerbread will<br />
be on display at the Gingerbread<br />
Mania exhibit. Since 2006, the<br />
gingerbread exhibit tempts all<br />
kinds of creative minds to take<br />
part, like designers and architects.<br />
Up to now, close to 360 Estonian<br />
artists have taken part. Some<br />
international artists have also<br />
taken part.<br />
This year’s theme is the Olympics.<br />
To find out what that means,<br />
Tallinn’s traditional<br />
Christmas market<br />
<strong>The</strong> Old Town’s Christmas market<br />
opened on November 24th.<br />
<strong>The</strong> square fills with little wooden<br />
houses, where you can buy anything<br />
from Estonian handicrafts to<br />
delicious hot food. Like every year,<br />
during the day Santa Claus and his<br />
reindeer will be at the market, as<br />
well as Estonia’s most beautiful<br />
tree, in the centre of it all. A tree<br />
has been placed in the middle of<br />
the square since 1441, and accor-<br />
you will have to visit the show! <strong>The</strong><br />
show is open daily 11.00-18.00. On<br />
Christmas Eve, and December 31,<br />
the exhibit is open from 11.00-<br />
15.00. Christmas Day, and January<br />
1, the exhibit is closed. ■<br />
PiparkoogiMaania (Gingerbread<br />
Mania), 18.12.2012-<br />
8.1.2012. Tallinn Design and<br />
Architecture Gallery. (Tallinna<br />
Disaini- ja Arhitektuurigalerii),<br />
Pärnu mnt. 6, Tallinn B2.<br />
ding to legend, it is Europes oldest<br />
Christmas tree.<br />
You can taste traditional Estonian<br />
Christmas food, like blood<br />
sausage and sauerkraut, or enjoy a<br />
cup of mulled wine. <strong>The</strong>re is even<br />
a petting zoo for the children, and<br />
pony rides.<br />
On some of the warmer days<br />
there will dance performances,<br />
from Irish to Latin. An elf disco,<br />
for elves of any age, will take place<br />
Tallinn is famous for its Christmas<br />
market in the Town Hall<br />
Square, but did you know there<br />
is another market in town?<br />
Two different Christmas markets<br />
are open at the Lootsi Centre<br />
and at Kochi Aidad. At Kochi<br />
Aidad, the market is open until the<br />
end of December, and the Lootsi<br />
Centre market, until January 6.<br />
Browse through different kinds of<br />
handicrafts, foods, and other great<br />
Saturday, December 22. Don’t forget<br />
your elf hat!<br />
<strong>The</strong> first advent candle will be<br />
lit Sunday, December 2, at 14.00.<br />
Christmas peace will be declared<br />
at 12.00 on Christmas Eve.<br />
Events at the Christmas market<br />
take place Fridays to Sundays. ■<br />
Jõuluturg (Christmas Market)<br />
Tallinn Town Hall Square<br />
24.11.2012- 8.1.2013, 10.00-19.00<br />
Other Christmas Markets<br />
presents to put under un u un u un u un u un u un u un uun u n de d de d de d de d de dde d de d de d dde d de d dde d e r<br />
under the tree. Both Bo B Bo BBo B BBo B o t th t th tth t th t th t th tth t th tth t h<br />
Both Kochi<br />
Aidad and the<br />
Lootsi Centre<br />
are located<br />
near Tallinn’s D<br />
Terminal at the Port. ■<br />
Kochi Aidad Christmas Market,<br />
15.11- 31.12<br />
Lootsi Christmas Market,<br />
23.11- 6.1.2013
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 9<br />
A Christmas Village<br />
TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />
<strong>The</strong> Estonian Open Air Museum<br />
gives a good insight into rural<br />
Estonian life, no matter what the<br />
season. It is a peaceful place; the<br />
old barns and residential buildings<br />
shake off their winter sleep for a<br />
while and come alive with stories<br />
from times gone by. This year’s<br />
theme is Christmas in the tumult<br />
of history.<br />
Walk around the huge area<br />
embedded in a natural setting.<br />
This year's theme<br />
is Christmas in the<br />
tumult of history<br />
Make short stops in the farmhouses<br />
from various regions in Estonia.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is also a village shop, a<br />
school, and chapel.<br />
In the farmhouses, the families<br />
will tell their stories, each with<br />
some significance to Estonian history.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Köstriaseme Farm brings<br />
you back to 1895. <strong>The</strong> owner has<br />
just paid the last taxes to the<br />
manor and is now a free man.<br />
At the Pulga Farm, the family<br />
gathers to read about relatives<br />
who moved to Russia in the 1880s,<br />
looking for a better life.<br />
Folks at the Härjapea Farm are<br />
veterans from the Estonian War of<br />
Independence in the early 1920s.<br />
At the Kuie School, according<br />
to tsarist regulations, Russian rep-<br />
<strong>The</strong> Estonian Open Air<br />
Museum is open all year.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Christmas Village is open<br />
December 14-16, 11.00-16.00.<br />
Concerts in the Sutlepa Chapel:<br />
December 15<br />
12.00 and 14:00 - Female Choir,<br />
National Library of Estonia<br />
13.00 and 15.00 - Mixed Choir, Tallinn<br />
German Gymnasium<br />
December 16<br />
12.00 and 14.00 - Chamber Choir of<br />
the Estonian Academy of Arts<br />
13.00 - Children’s Choir<br />
of Nõmme Youth Club<br />
15.00 - Christmas prayer<br />
Transportation<br />
Buses 21 & 21B from the main <strong>Baltic</strong><br />
railway station. Bus 22, or trolley bus<br />
6 & 7. Get off at the Zoo stop, 15<br />
minute walk along the seaside road.<br />
City Tour – blue line buses.<br />
laces the teaching of the Estonian<br />
language, but good old Christmas<br />
songs are still sung in Estonian.<br />
No matter which farm or building<br />
you visit, you will enjoy the<br />
quiet and holy Christmas spirit,<br />
which has gathered families in<br />
troubled times.<br />
A visit to the museum can be<br />
rounded off by traditional Christmas<br />
meals at the Kolu Inn, and a<br />
visit to the village shop. ■<br />
Free bus with the sign “Eesti<br />
Vabaõhumuuseum/ Open Air<br />
Museum” from Sokos Hotel Viru, Viru<br />
väljak 4) at 11.00, 12:30 and 14.00.<br />
Return at 13.15, 14.45 and 16:15. Stop<br />
at Kristiine Shopping Centre on the<br />
way back.<br />
Tallink, <strong>The</strong> Rocca al Mare Shopping<br />
Center and the Estonian Open Air<br />
Museum have prepared a tour offer,<br />
including a variety of discounts.<br />
Estonian Open Air Museum,<br />
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn<br />
www.evm.ee<br />
Enjoy old fashioned Christmas<br />
traditions in the Christmas<br />
Village at the <strong>The</strong> Estonian<br />
Open Air Museum.<br />
SOLARIS<br />
Christmas Park<br />
Starting from<br />
December 2nd, a<br />
Christmas Park<br />
will open on the<br />
5th floor of the<br />
Solaris Centre.<br />
Bring the kids to<br />
see two Christmas<br />
goats, and of<br />
course Santa Clause!<br />
Have a treat at<br />
Komeet Café’s<br />
Christmas Café.<br />
Open Monday to<br />
Friday 12.00-21.00,<br />
Saturday – Sunday<br />
11.00 – 21.00.<br />
Jazzy Christmas<br />
<strong>The</strong> Christmas Jazz Festival 2012<br />
(Jõulujazz) brings top musicians<br />
from the United States, Korea,<br />
Chile, France, Germany, Sweden,<br />
and Finland to Tallinn from<br />
November 29th to December<br />
10th. Great concerts will be held<br />
at churches, clubs, and concert<br />
halls throughout the city. Tickets<br />
and information: www.jazzkaar.ee<br />
5 Dec 19:00 - Jacob Karlzon 3, Kumu<br />
Auditorium<br />
6 Dec 19:00 - Anders Jormin, Karin<br />
Nelson & Jonas Simonson, Tallinn<br />
Jaani Church<br />
7 Dec 19:00 - Rebecca Kontus<br />
Quintet, St Mary's Cathedral (Tallinna<br />
Toomkirik)<br />
8 Dec 20:00 - Argo Vals & band, Von<br />
Krahl <strong>The</strong>ater<br />
9 Dec 17:00 - Tõnis Mägi, Liidia<br />
Mägi, Mirt Mägi, radio singing<br />
studio children cond. Kadri Hunt &<br />
Siim Aimla Band, Tallinn Jaani Church<br />
9 Dec 19:00 - Tigran Hamasyan,<br />
Kumu Auditorium
10 restaurants<br />
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />
Tallinn is quickly becoming a<br />
food destination, with restaurants<br />
offering international cuisines.<br />
But let’s not forget about Estonian<br />
food. Traditional Estonian food<br />
is based on seasonal availability.<br />
As far as Estonian Christmas<br />
food goes, there is nothing more<br />
seasonal than blood sausage. You<br />
know the holidays are just around<br />
the corner when you start seeing<br />
blood sausage at the grocery stores.<br />
Visit one of Tallinn’s many<br />
Estonian restaurants to try some<br />
seasonal dishes.<br />
Taste Test:<br />
BEER<br />
Name<br />
Producer<br />
Alcohol %<br />
Points<br />
Saku<br />
Pühadeporter<br />
Saku<br />
Õlletehas<br />
6,9<br />
94<br />
ESTONIAN CULINARY<br />
CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS<br />
GB Wild Dark<br />
Viru Õlu<br />
5,4<br />
89<br />
Jõuluporter<br />
A. Le Coq<br />
6,5<br />
83<br />
Jõulusokk<br />
Viru Õlu<br />
6,0<br />
73<br />
Jõululegend<br />
Puls<br />
4.5<br />
71<br />
83<br />
Paras<br />
virolainen<br />
13 13 94 7<br />
Where to taste holiday foods in Tallinn<br />
MEKK offers a Christmas menu<br />
inspired by ESTONIAN TRADITIONS<br />
Chef Rene Uusmees can often be<br />
seen in the MEKK dining room<br />
talking to customers. He bases his<br />
menus on seasonal ingredients<br />
and dishes inspired by Estonian<br />
culinary traditions. This holiday<br />
season you can enjoy a fourcourse<br />
Estonian Christmas menu<br />
for 30€.<br />
To start, choose between a fish<br />
course or a meat course. Both<br />
dishes come with a selection of<br />
five types of fish or meat, prepared<br />
in different ways. “When<br />
Estonians sit down to eat their<br />
Christmas meal, everything is on<br />
the table. I wanted to express this<br />
in the appetiser by offering small<br />
portions and a little bit of everyt-<br />
<strong>The</strong> Estonian Christmas inspired fish appetiser at MEKK.<br />
hing,” explains Uusmees. <strong>The</strong>se<br />
dishes have a modern look, but<br />
the familiar flavours remain the<br />
same. For example, the head cheese<br />
(a jellied meat, typically found<br />
on the Christmas dinner table) is<br />
served with pickled vegetables and<br />
sauerkraut.<br />
For the main course, the chef<br />
offers a choice between baked<br />
goose fillet, smoked beef fillet, or<br />
braised wild boar. He uses modern<br />
cooking techniques to ensure that<br />
the meat is cooked tenderly, a<br />
luxury that Estonians would not<br />
have had 100 years ago. Uusmees<br />
takes advantage of the wonderful<br />
seasonal produce of Estonia, using<br />
root vegetables like parsnips, bee-<br />
troot, and Jerusalem artichokes to<br />
add colour and different textures<br />
to the plate.<br />
Finish off the meal with dessert<br />
and petit fours. For dessert, choose<br />
between the white chocolate<br />
cheesecake or a Christmas pudding<br />
with dried fruits and caramel<br />
sauce. “At Christmas, Estonians<br />
don’t generally eat cakes. After<br />
a filling meal, dried fruits, citrus<br />
fruits like mandarin oranges, and<br />
small chocolates are scattered on<br />
the table. <strong>The</strong>se two desserts reflect<br />
that tradition. ■<br />
Location<br />
Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
www.mekk.ee<br />
Estonian Holiday<br />
Beers 2012<br />
TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />
Every winter, beer producers in Estonia release darker,<br />
and stronger beers. At the recent Tallinn FoodFest, visitors<br />
were able to sample this year’s offerings, and GB<br />
Wild Dark was chosen as a favourite. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong><br />
decided to hold a tasting of their own to see how the<br />
beers stacked up.<br />
What the experts say<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> asked Helsinki beer expert Heikki<br />
Kähkönen Estonia’s beers. This is what he had to say:<br />
Ed<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
Kuldse Notsu Kõrts<br />
(Golden Piglet Inn)<br />
On a cold winter’s night, step into<br />
this cosy little inn in the heart of<br />
Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse<br />
Notsu Kõrts, they offer a Christmas<br />
menu, so you can try the food<br />
without putting in all of the work<br />
that goes into its preparation.<br />
I visited the restaurant back in<br />
November, when the Christmas<br />
menu had not been quite finished,<br />
but the waitress assured me that<br />
they would offer blood sausage,<br />
and their very popular gingerbread<br />
cake.<br />
To satisfy my curiosity in<br />
the meantime, I opted for the<br />
sausage feast. And what a feast<br />
it was! <strong>The</strong>re were five different<br />
kinds of sausages, including blood<br />
1. A. Le Coq Jõuluporter<br />
- A balanced and warming beer for winter.<br />
2. Saku Pühadeporter White Chocolate<br />
- A cocoa scented dessert beer.<br />
3. GB Wild Dark<br />
- Delicate and fruity winter beer.<br />
4. Puls Jõululegend<br />
- Pale and herby<br />
5. Joulusõkk<br />
- Pairs well with sausages.<br />
sausages that came served with<br />
sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and<br />
mustard. <strong>The</strong> waitress warned us<br />
that the mustard was spicy, and<br />
she was not lying.<br />
<strong>The</strong> homemade cheese had<br />
also come very highly recommended,<br />
however the sausage feast<br />
shared between two people was<br />
plenty. <strong>The</strong> cheese was infused<br />
with whole cumin seeds and was<br />
served with lingonberry jam. To<br />
drink, try a pint of the house ale. ■<br />
Location<br />
Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town H1<br />
hotelstpetersbourg.com/kuldse-notsukorts.html<br />
CONCLUSION<br />
All five beers had a relatively modest taste. It seemed that<br />
most of the holiday beers were very similar, with only subtle<br />
nuances.
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 restaurants<br />
11<br />
Liisu Juures<br />
It doesn’t get more central than<br />
a meal at Liisu's in the Town Hall<br />
Square. Located in a warm and<br />
inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old<br />
Town, this is the place to come<br />
for good food, and good Estonian<br />
hospitality.<br />
To start, try the fried and<br />
marinated herring, served with<br />
rye bread and cucumber salad, or<br />
the mushroom salad, with potato<br />
and bacon. If you want to try<br />
Estonian Christmas food, look<br />
for blood sausage and roasted<br />
pork. As a main, the selection of<br />
sausages may seem daunting, but<br />
the sausages themselves are very<br />
small, allowing a proper sampling<br />
of three different kinds. Inclu-<br />
ded on the platter were blood<br />
sausages, pork sausages, and a larger<br />
German style wiener. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />
served with a generous portion of<br />
sauerkraut and roasted potatoes,<br />
as well as lingonberry sauce to go<br />
with the blood sausage. For another<br />
traditional Estonian Christmas<br />
dish, try the roasted pork and<br />
boiled potatoes. Liisu Juures has a<br />
good selection of Estonian beers.<br />
<strong>The</strong> mead, which was not too<br />
sweet, was a good accompaniment<br />
to the selection of sausages. ■<br />
Location<br />
Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town H1<br />
Facebook: liisujuures<br />
TALU KÕRTS<br />
(Farm Tavern)<br />
Hearty foods, generous portions,<br />
and a free shot of vodka,<br />
what more could you ask for in<br />
a pub? <strong>The</strong> menu boasts traditional<br />
Estonian foods, as well<br />
as Estonian favourites. Try the<br />
fried cheese, or hunter’s burning<br />
sausages as a snack with beer. To<br />
start, the sauerkraut soup with<br />
smoked pork, or the pea soup<br />
are Estonian staples. Follow that<br />
with roasted pork and sauerkraut,<br />
or the Heretic’s pork (pork chop<br />
with roasted onions). Reasonably<br />
priced food and beers, especially<br />
when you consider the pub’s<br />
location on the main street of the<br />
Old Town. You certainly won’t go<br />
home hungry, or thirsty! ■<br />
Location<br />
Viru 18, Tallinn Old Town H3<br />
www.talukorts.ee<br />
Eesti Söögituba<br />
(Estonian Dining<br />
Room)<br />
This relatively new addition to<br />
the list of Estonian restaurants in<br />
Tallinn has all of the basic Estonian<br />
staples covered. What was truly<br />
great about the dishes at Eesti<br />
Söögituba, was that they came in<br />
manageable sized portions, meaning<br />
you will have room to try a<br />
few different dishes, or even have<br />
dessert.<br />
Try the <strong>Baltic</strong> herring and redonion<br />
tartar with crispy bread to<br />
start, or the Estonian black pud-<br />
NOP<br />
If you’ve headed out to Kadriorg,<br />
why not stop in at NOP for<br />
coffee and dessert, or even better,<br />
lunch. Starting in December,<br />
it’s Christmas at NOP, which<br />
means Christmas food! Enjoy a<br />
selection of Christmas inspired<br />
ding with lingonberry remoulade.<br />
As a main course, you can’t go<br />
wrong with the juniper-smoked<br />
pork with honey cabbage, potato<br />
groats porridge and mustard<br />
sauce.<br />
To drink, the naiste õlu, or<br />
ladies’ beer comes served with a<br />
bit of Vana Tallinn liqueur mixed<br />
in. ■<br />
favourites during the holiday season.<br />
Or take something home to<br />
enjoy. You can order everything<br />
you need for your Christmas meal<br />
from NOP. If you’re only visiting<br />
Estonia, then why not take home<br />
one of their homemade jams, or<br />
Location<br />
Pikk 29, Tallinn Old Town G2<br />
www.meritonhotels.com/eesti_soogituba/<br />
packets of gingerbread (also available<br />
as gluten-free).<br />
■<br />
Location<br />
Köleri 1, Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3<br />
www.nop.ee
12 shopping<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> Gu <strong>Guide</strong>’s<br />
glögg taste ttest<br />
winner<br />
Loimu Glögi<br />
i 9.99€ <strong>The</strong><br />
best mulled wine w was<br />
Hõõgvein Talvenauding<br />
Taalvenauding<br />
2.79€. 22.79€.<br />
Available<br />
at most<br />
major superm supermarkets. markets.<br />
■ Lotte, from the popupular children’s film Lotte otte<br />
from Gadgetville<br />
(2006) ( Lotte plush<br />
toy. 19.90€ Tallinna a<br />
Kaubamaja Kau Children’s n’s<br />
Department. Dep Gonsiori iori<br />
2, Ta Tallinn B2.<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>’s<br />
HOLIDAY SHOPPING<br />
GUIDE<br />
■ At FreyWille, you can<br />
find a great selection<br />
of traditional and high<br />
quality gifts. For men:<br />
cufflinks 455€ and tie<br />
clip 310€. For women: a<br />
beautiful bracelet 770€.<br />
FreyWille, Pärnu mnt 12,<br />
Tallinn J2.<br />
TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />
■ Estonian chocolate<br />
always makes a gre great pre-<br />
sent. Kalev Kalevipoeg<br />
Kalevip<br />
Chocolate 2.95€. Available A<br />
at most major su supe supermar- pe p<br />
kets.<br />
■ Paper models, a great gift ft for<br />
both girls and boys. No glue lue<br />
required for assembly. Choose hoose<br />
between ships, planes, and nd<br />
cars. 7.95€ Tallinna Kaubamaja amaja<br />
Children’s Department.<br />
Gonsiori 2, Tallinn B2.
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 shopping<br />
13<br />
■ Homemade jam is<br />
a delicious stocking<br />
stuffer. Beetroot<br />
and apple jam 3.50€<br />
NOP Köleri 1, Tallinn<br />
(Kadriorg) B3<br />
■ Angora wool socks make<br />
a wonderful erful gift for both<br />
men and d women. 24.86€.<br />
Tervisekaubad, kaubad, Lootsi 7,<br />
Norde Centrum. Tallinn A3.<br />
■ Make gingerbread at<br />
home with this mix.<br />
Rye flour, almond<br />
meal, and cranberry<br />
gingerbread mix.<br />
9.90€ NOP Köleri 1,<br />
Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3<br />
■ Hot H water bottles<br />
come c in different<br />
shapes and colours.<br />
28.70€ Tervisekaubad,<br />
Lootsi 7, Norde<br />
Centrum. Tallinn A3.<br />
■ With these leather<br />
gloves, you can still<br />
use the touch screen<br />
on your phone.<br />
Women’s gloves<br />
34.50€, Men’s gloves<br />
50.90€. Tunor, Aia 10,<br />
Tallinn Old Town G3.
14 children's activities<br />
DISCOVER TALLINN<br />
like a child<br />
December is the darkest month of the year, but with<br />
snow on the ground, kids just love spending time e outdoors.<br />
Should fingers get stiff and cheeks cold, there ere is<br />
just as much to do inside!<br />
Tobogganing<br />
and skiing<br />
� Estonia is a winter country.<br />
Kids love to rush down the slopes<br />
at the Song Festival Grounds –<br />
provided there is snow. You can<br />
use just about anything to sit on,<br />
and off you go, down the hill. On<br />
snowy winter days and evenings,<br />
the Song Festival Ground slopes<br />
are crowded.<br />
Tallinn Song Festival Grounds<br />
Narva mnt 95, Tallinn<br />
<strong>The</strong> ZOO<br />
� <strong>The</strong> Tallinn Zoo is always fascinating.<br />
In December, visitors<br />
can get to know the life of various<br />
insects, or visit the chimpanzees.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y will celebrate Christmas<br />
on December 21 with gifts,<br />
i.e. food wrapped in various ways.<br />
Equal treatment is important, thus<br />
all other animals will celebrate<br />
Christmas on December 26 with<br />
extra goodies!<br />
Tallinn Zoo is located next<br />
to the largest shopping centre<br />
in Tallinn, Rocca-al-Mare and a<br />
pleasant 15-minute walk from the<br />
Estonian Open Air Museum.<br />
Paldiski mnt 145, Tallinn<br />
Transportation:<br />
Trolley bus no 6, busses. no 22 and 21<br />
www.tallinnzoo.ee<br />
PALDISKI MNT. 7<br />
4<br />
Train Station<br />
RANNAMÄE<br />
TEE 11 5<br />
6<br />
OLD<br />
TOWN<br />
3<br />
PÄRNU MNT.<br />
PORT/HABOUR<br />
9<br />
VIRU<br />
SQUARE<br />
24<br />
3<br />
ESTONIA<br />
PST.<br />
LIIVALAIA<br />
AHTRI<br />
5 NARVA MNT.<br />
2<br />
Viru hotell<br />
Stockmann GONSIORI<br />
TARTU MNT.<br />
JUHKENTALI<br />
PIRITA<br />
1<br />
Like to<br />
skate?<br />
� Rent skates at the Harju<br />
Street skating rink, then join the<br />
crowds and skate to the romantic<br />
and inspiring Strauss waltzes. <strong>The</strong><br />
rink is just next to the St. Nicholas<br />
Church on Harju Street in<br />
Tallinn’s Old Town. You are surrounded<br />
by medieval buildings<br />
and the atmosphere is magic.<br />
If you get cold, then just sit down<br />
at the rink-side café & bar and<br />
enjoy a hot chocolate.<br />
Open daily 10.00 – 22.00.<br />
Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town I1.<br />
1<br />
NUKU Estonian State<br />
Puppet & Youth <strong>The</strong>atre<br />
� Grown ups often yawn at<br />
the thought to going to a puppet<br />
theatre and are inclined to believe<br />
that it’s only for kids. Once inside<br />
the theatre, they are carried<br />
away and fascinated. Actors at<br />
the Puppet <strong>The</strong>atre are real professionals.<br />
You end up in a world<br />
between fantasy and reality, with<br />
many well-known fairy tale figures<br />
and childhood memories.<br />
<strong>The</strong> museum depicts the history<br />
of puppet theatre art in Estonia<br />
and elsewhere, through puppets,<br />
words, and pictures, and with different<br />
forms of technology. It also<br />
introduces the history of the top<br />
level Estonian State Puppet <strong>The</strong>atre.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is a picture machine with<br />
a video screen and 160 coloured<br />
buttons. Press any one of these<br />
and you will hear voices of actors<br />
who have worked in the theatre.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are excerpts from roles,<br />
songs, and thoughts.<br />
Estonian State Puppet & Youth <strong>The</strong>atre, Lai<br />
1, Tallinn Old Town G1<br />
www.nukuteater.ee<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
AHHAA<br />
Science<br />
Centre<br />
� You don’t have to be interested<br />
in science to visit this centre. <strong>The</strong> 4D<br />
cinema carries you away into the<br />
mysteries of science fiction. Currently,<br />
at AHHAA you can see an<br />
exhibition on light, which is exposed<br />
in 20 different ways through lasers,<br />
cameras, plasma balls, and more.<br />
Most things are interactive, so don’t<br />
be shy, take part.<br />
Vabadus väljak, Tallinn, Old Town J1<br />
www.ahhaa.ee
WWW.TELETORN.EE<br />
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN<br />
BRASSERIE &<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
TELETORN<br />
RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW<br />
<strong>The</strong> TV Tower is<br />
located 10 km from<br />
the city centre and 4<br />
km from the Pirita<br />
Marina.<br />
Kloostrimetsa tee<br />
58A, Tallinn<br />
HOW TO GET HERE:<br />
You can take buses<br />
34A, 38, and 49 (stop<br />
"Teletorn"), or the City<br />
Tour bus. Our premises<br />
are handicap<br />
accessible.<br />
PARKING:<br />
<strong>The</strong> TV Tower<br />
parking lot has 5<br />
places for tourist<br />
buses and 60<br />
places for cars.<br />
Reservations: +372 58150020<br />
E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee<br />
Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23<br />
jjjjjjjjjj<br />
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����������������������������Mon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00���+372 6 650 928<br />
restoran@chateau.ee ��www.chateau.ee<br />
Restaurant Le Chateau<br />
brings French cuisine to Tallinn!<br />
Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy<br />
and charming<br />
atmosphere while<br />
you taste the 17th<br />
Century-inspired French<br />
menu.Come experience<br />
the royal dining<br />
traditions of the Sun King<br />
Louis XIV!<br />
Bring this ad with<br />
you and<br />
enjoy a<br />
complimentary<br />
GLASS OF<br />
LIQUEUR!<br />
Christmas Menu!<br />
www.chateau.ee<br />
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RUSSIAN<br />
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www.troika.ee<br />
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TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK<br />
HEALTHY<br />
FRESH<br />
FAST<br />
PASTA<br />
& PIZZA<br />
from<br />
4,90 €<br />
Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn<br />
Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010<br />
Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn<br />
Near the National Opera <strong>The</strong>atre tfn. +372 6 285 999<br />
OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24<br />
BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!<br />
FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25<br />
VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!
16 outside of Tallinn<br />
December<br />
News<br />
E-Activism in Estonia<br />
President Toomas Hendrik Ilves put forth<br />
a proposal for an e-solution, geared<br />
toward civic activism. Politicians, activists<br />
and commentators met to address grievances<br />
with the government. <strong>The</strong> discussion<br />
concluded with the president's<br />
proposal for an online initiative, which<br />
would allow citizens to suggest policy<br />
changes. <strong>The</strong> suggestions would be<br />
screened by the Estonian Cooperation<br />
Assembly, and presented to Parliament.<br />
Estonia Confirmed as<br />
Member of UN Human<br />
Rights Council<br />
<strong>The</strong> United Nations General Assembly<br />
confirmed Estonia as a member of the<br />
UN Human Rights Council. 184 of 193<br />
members of the General Assembly<br />
voted to approve Estonia for the 47-seat<br />
council. Estonia’s term will be from 2013-<br />
2015. <strong>The</strong> UN Human Rights Council<br />
was established in 2006, replacing the<br />
Human Rights Commission.<br />
Tartu Observatory Re-opens<br />
<strong>The</strong> Tartu Observatory in Tõravere,<br />
outside of Tartu, was completely renovated<br />
and is now open to the public.<br />
Established in 1964, the observatory<br />
made many things for Soviet space<br />
programs, but no major renovations<br />
have been done since then. <strong>The</strong> renovations<br />
to the main building are finished,<br />
but the laboratory is waiting for new<br />
technology to arrive. <strong>The</strong> first project<br />
to be tested in the laboratory will be<br />
Estonia’s first satellite, ESTCube-1.<br />
Tallinn University’s<br />
international appeal<br />
<strong>The</strong> University of Tartu may have the<br />
largest student body in the country,<br />
but Tallinn based universities are more<br />
popular among international students.<br />
193 foreigners attended classes at the<br />
University of Tartu and the Estonian<br />
University of Life Sciences, both based in<br />
Tartu. <strong>The</strong> total number of international<br />
students to study at the five universities<br />
in Tallinn was 625. <strong>The</strong> Tallinn University<br />
of Technology accepted applications<br />
from 296 foreign students, while the<br />
University of Tartu accepted 164.<br />
40 New Buses for Tallinn<br />
<strong>The</strong> capital's public transport operator,<br />
Tallinna Linnatranspordi AS, has announced<br />
that they will buy 40 new buses,<br />
to hopefully be running by December<br />
2013. 20 regular and 20 articulated<br />
buses will replace older vehicles. Tallinn<br />
has already made many changes to the<br />
bus and traffic system in preparation<br />
for the switch to free public transport<br />
for all registered residents of the city on<br />
January 1. Bus lanes have been added,<br />
as well as a new electronic ticketing<br />
system. <strong>The</strong>re will also be some route<br />
changes.<br />
New Performing<br />
Arts Center in Tallinn<br />
A new multi-hall theatre will be built in<br />
the Kalamaja district in the north end of<br />
the city. <strong>The</strong> project is expected to take<br />
seven years. <strong>The</strong> Teatrikeskus (<strong>The</strong>atre<br />
Centre) will be built in the Telliskivi<br />
Creative City. Nine acting troupes will<br />
take up residence. <strong>The</strong> complex will<br />
have two spaces that can be connected<br />
into one 450-seat hall. <strong>The</strong>re will be<br />
another hall for dance performances, a<br />
rehearsal hall, as well as other areas.<br />
TEXT LISA AND KRISTEN DOBBIN, PHOTOS JAAK NILSON<br />
Christmas is a wonderful time<br />
to visit Tartu, a city with an abundance<br />
of holiday cheer! This year,<br />
get festive at a choral concert in<br />
St. John’s Church, partake in one<br />
of the many celebrations in the<br />
Town Hall Square, or ring in the<br />
New Year at the impressive Vanemuine<br />
Concert Hall. For more<br />
details on the holiday season in<br />
Tartu, see: http://kultuuriaken.<br />
tartu.ee<br />
2.12 19:00 <strong>The</strong> Estonian Philharmonic<br />
Chamber Choir & Tallinn Chamber<br />
Orchestra play “Golden Classics” at<br />
the Vanemuise Concert Hall.<br />
www.concert.ee/tartu<br />
4.12 19:00 Get into the spirit with<br />
the concert “Christmas Time,” in St.<br />
Paul's Church. www.plmf.ee<br />
4.–19.12 Eat Estonian Christmas food<br />
& treats, see farm animals, visit with<br />
Santa Claus, and take a sleigh ride in<br />
the park at <strong>The</strong> Estonian Agricultural<br />
Museum, during their program<br />
“Waiting for Christmas.”<br />
www.epm.ee<br />
Christmas in Tartu<br />
08.12 Alatskivi Castle Christmas Fair<br />
www.alatskiviloss.ee<br />
8.12. 20.00 – 24.00 Lõunakeskus<br />
Shopping Centre “Imede öö” (<strong>The</strong><br />
Night of Wonders) Deals and discounts,<br />
and the best prices of the year.<br />
Enjoy an ice show as well!<br />
www.lounakeskus.com<br />
8.12 12:00 - 17:00 <strong>The</strong> design market<br />
“Clockwork,” at the Tartu Centre for<br />
Creative Industries, is a great place to<br />
find unique gifts. www.lmk.ee/eng<br />
2.-06.01.2013 Tartu Christmas<br />
City: a series of events for all ages,<br />
held in and around the Town Hall<br />
Square. For more information and<br />
a schedule of events: http://joululinn.tartu.ee<br />
15.12 11.00-17.00 <strong>The</strong> Christmas<br />
Fair, located in Tartu’s Town Hall<br />
Square and along Küüni Street,<br />
is a great place to find gifts while<br />
enjoying folk dancing, games, traditional<br />
Christmas food and more.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />
15.12 13:00 4th Tartu Winter Dance<br />
Festival, held in the Town Hall Square.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />
15.12 17.00 An advent concert by the<br />
Estonian Mixed Choirs’ Association at<br />
St. John’s Church.<br />
www.segakoorideliit.ee<br />
<strong>The</strong> holiday season is a wonderful time to visit Tartu.<br />
16.12 17:00 A free performance<br />
of Christmas carols in Finnish and<br />
English at St John's Church.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />
16.12 19:00 Ivo Linna, Ott Lepland, and<br />
Noorkuu perform spirited Christmas<br />
music at the Vanemuise Concert Hall.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />
18.12 19:00 Estonian Philharmonic<br />
Chamber Choir and Tallinn Chamber<br />
Orchestra perform Haydn’s “Te<br />
Deum.” www.concert.ee/tartu<br />
19.12 19:00 “Christmas Bells” in St.<br />
John’s Church, by a vocalist from the<br />
Estonian National Opera, with oboe<br />
and percussion ensemble. "<br />
www.concert.ee/tartu<br />
20.12 19:00 Young musicians from<br />
Tartu’s Arsise Kellade School offer a<br />
concert with Christmas flavour at St.<br />
Peter’s Church.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />
22.12 18:00 <strong>The</strong> Vanemuise<br />
Symphony Orchestra advent concert<br />
at St. John’s Church.<br />
www.vanemuine.ee<br />
22.12 19:00 Annely Peebo, Dave<br />
Benton and the ETV children's<br />
Christmas show at the Vanemuise<br />
Concert Hall.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
31.12 17.00 Vanemuine Concert Hall hosts the Hennessy and<br />
Eesti Kontsert New Year’s Eve concert. www.concert.ee/tartu<br />
23.12 19:00 “Silent Night” performed<br />
by the Estonian National Male Choir at<br />
Vanemuise Concert Hall<br />
www.concert.ee/tartu<br />
23.12 19:00 St Peter’s Church<br />
hosts a performance of “Jõuluöö<br />
Tähed” (Christmas Eve’s Stars) by<br />
opera singers Maria Listra and Jassi<br />
Zahharov, accompanied by piano.<br />
www.kontsert.ee<br />
26.12 19:00 Christmas music with<br />
the Arsise Kellade Ensemble and<br />
Estonian National Opera soloists,<br />
performed in St. John’s Church<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />
27.12 19:00 “Christmas in the Heart”<br />
concert at St. John’s Church<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />
27.12 20:00 Liisi Koikson’s Christmas<br />
Concert at the Athena Centre.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/<br />
29.12 15:00 Hortus Musicus perform<br />
at St. John’s Church.<br />
http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee<br />
30.12 19.00 <strong>The</strong> Vanemuise End of<br />
Year Ball, an annual event featuring<br />
various artists and performers (tickets<br />
26€, after 1 Dec 40€).<br />
www.vanemuine.ee
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 17<br />
Upcoming Events:<br />
DECEMBER:<br />
Dec 6, 19.00 - Top Estonian Rock<br />
Musicians Sibul-Vaigla-Rull, Otepää<br />
Cultural Centre<br />
Dec 8, 15 and 22, 20.00 - Lake Leigo<br />
Christmas Concerts, great music in a<br />
fabulous setting<br />
Dec 16, 16.00 - Christmas Concert,<br />
Otepää Cultural Centre<br />
Dec 21, Inauguration of Otepää as<br />
the Winter Capital. Festivities around<br />
town.<br />
Dec 22, 16.00 - Folk Jazz, Otepää<br />
Cultural Centre<br />
Dec 28-29, <strong>Baltic</strong> Cup, cross-country<br />
skiing and rifle shooting biathlon<br />
Dec 31, New Years Celebration,<br />
Lipuväljak Square<br />
JANUARY:<br />
Jan 5-6, International Biathlon<br />
Union<br />
Jan 12-13, Ski jumping<br />
Jan 26-27 International Dog-sledge<br />
competition<br />
FEBRUARY:<br />
Feb 2-3, Cross-country and ski jump<br />
competition<br />
Feb 15-24 Ice music Festival<br />
Feb 24 Independence Day celebrations,<br />
family event<br />
Worldloppet Ski Federation Crosscountry<br />
Ski Marathon<br />
10.02.2013 Open Track 31 km<br />
10.02.2013 Open Track 63km<br />
17.02.2013 Tartu Marathon 31 km<br />
17.02.2013 Tartu Marathon 63 km<br />
<strong>The</strong> programs include races for children<br />
and elite athletes. All events have<br />
shorter distances for amateurs.<br />
www.tartumaraton.ee<br />
TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN<br />
PHOTOS OTEPÄÄ TOURISM INFORMATION CENTRE,<br />
KRISTINA LUPP<br />
A winter weekend away in Otepää<br />
is a great escape. <strong>The</strong> ski<br />
slopes and cross-country trails<br />
are full of people in the daytime.<br />
When darkness falls, the festivities<br />
move inside to the pubs, bars,<br />
and discos.<br />
Ski the downhill slopes at<br />
Kuutsemäe or Väike Munamägi,<br />
close to Estonia’s winter sport<br />
No equipment, no<br />
problem:<br />
everything is<br />
available for rent.<br />
Mecca, Otepää. On a day with<br />
limited visibility you won’t see<br />
that there aren’t any mountains<br />
around, just a few slopes, the longest<br />
run being some 500 meters.<br />
<strong>The</strong> race from the top to the bottom<br />
of the hill doesn’t take very<br />
long, but it’s great fun! Estonians<br />
take pride in the fact that Estonia<br />
has higher hills than Latvia and<br />
Lithuania! <strong>The</strong> highest point of<br />
elevation in Estonia is only 317<br />
meters.<br />
Downhill skiing is not the only<br />
reason to visit the area. Otepää is<br />
known foremost for its excellent<br />
cross-country skiing, with some<br />
80 kilometres of tracks, many of<br />
which are illuminated at night.<br />
And don’t forget about the over<br />
60 km of track used for the Worldloppet<br />
Tartu Marathon.<br />
In addition to downhill and<br />
cross-country skiing, Otepää<br />
sports<br />
offers winter activity fanatics<br />
ski-jumping, ice skating, snow<br />
tubing and much more! On a clear<br />
winter’s day, the silence and beauty<br />
of nature, and the snow covered<br />
trees is stunning.<br />
No equipment, no problem:<br />
everything is available for rent.<br />
Where to stay?<br />
Where to eat?<br />
Otepää and its surroundings offer<br />
over 70 hotels, hostels and cottages.<br />
Rooms are found easily<br />
midweek. Advance bookings are<br />
advised for weekends.<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> upscale Pühajärve Spa &<br />
Holiday Resort, located in an old<br />
manor house on the shores of romantic<br />
Lake Pühajärv (Holy Lake) is a place<br />
of natural tranquillity. This hotel offers<br />
fine dining, accommodation, spa<br />
Winter<br />
in Estonia<br />
facilities, and is popular among conference<br />
guests. www.pyhajarve.com<br />
■ Villa Müllerbeck boasts luxurious<br />
accommodation and an excellent<br />
restaurant. <strong>The</strong> hotel is located on the<br />
shores of a small lake on the outskirts<br />
of Otepää. www.villamullerbeck.eu<br />
■ SPA Hotel Bernhard offers a variety<br />
of rooms, an excellent restaurant<br />
and a large spa area. <strong>The</strong> hotel is located<br />
close to Lake Pühajärv and you can<br />
start your cross-country adventure<br />
just outside of the hotel.<br />
www.bernhard.ee<br />
■ GMP Club Hotel offers a stunning<br />
view of Lake Pühajärv and the rolling<br />
hills. Amenities include a great restaurant,<br />
live entertainment, and a gym.<br />
www.clubhotel.ee<br />
■ Piiri Sport and Recreation<br />
Centre is located 13 km from Otepää,<br />
and offers self-catering accommodation<br />
in huts. Simple lodging is for<br />
groups attending sporting events.<br />
www.piiri.org<br />
<strong>The</strong> Tartu Marathon will take place February 17 in Otepää.<br />
Enjoy winter sports in Otepää<br />
TALLINN<br />
How to get there?<br />
Otepää is located about 250 km<br />
southeast of Tallinn and 60 km south<br />
of Tartu.<br />
Daily flights, except on Saturday, operate<br />
from Helsinki to Tartu.<br />
www.flybe.com.<br />
Taxi from Tartu will cost approx. 35<br />
euro, 50 km.<br />
Frequent bus services to/from Tartu<br />
and Tallinn. www.tpilet.ee<br />
Otepää Tourism Information<br />
www.otepaa.ee<br />
For more information about winter<br />
sporting events visit:<br />
www.biathlon.ee<br />
http://otepaa.biathlon.ee<br />
www.suusliit.ee<br />
www.otepaasleddograce.eu<br />
Tartu
18 beauty<br />
STATIC blues<br />
How to fix static-ridden<br />
and dry winter hair.<br />
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />
Living in a northern climate<br />
means long, chilly, snowy winters,<br />
and bundling up before going<br />
outside. You spend all morning<br />
blow-drying your hair and then<br />
covering it with spray to make sure<br />
it looks silky and smooth. You put<br />
your hat on to go outside, and as<br />
soon as you take it off, the static is<br />
back! Don’t worry, there is a solution.<br />
Liis Sooäär, a sales consultant<br />
at Hairmail in Tallinn, has a few<br />
suggestions.<br />
It’s not too late! No hair is<br />
beyond repair. <strong>The</strong>se products<br />
help you fix dry dead ends, and<br />
bring back your hair’s natural<br />
shine. “Hair masks are a great way<br />
to put moisture back into your<br />
locks,” explains Liis. “If you are in<br />
a hurry, there are even some quick<br />
masks that take no more than one<br />
minute.” Liis explained that if you<br />
do have a bit more time, wearing a<br />
hair mask in the sauna, can really<br />
increase its results.<br />
Liis offers one final suggestion<br />
for winter hair care. “Blow dry<br />
and straighten your hair in moderation,<br />
as it can be particularly<br />
hard on your hair in winter. And<br />
be sure to always use a heat protection<br />
spray before blow drying.”<br />
■<br />
PROBLEM � : STATIC FROM WEARING A HAT,<br />
OR LONG HAIR THAT CLINGS TO YOUR CLOTHES. S.<br />
Solution:<br />
PROBLEM �: DRY HAIR FROM INDOOR HEATING AND BLOW DRYING.<br />
Solution:<br />
TIGI Bed Head Urban<br />
Antidotes Resurrection<br />
Use these products in<br />
winter to prevent dry hair<br />
from breaking.<br />
Shampoo 250ml 15,90€<br />
Conditioner 200ml<br />
17,90€<br />
L`OREAL Mythic Oil 125ml 26,00€<br />
<strong>The</strong> Mythic Oil line of products contains<br />
avocado and grape seed oil. <strong>The</strong><br />
oil is best used to repair dry dead ends<br />
and adds a sleek shine, while not leaving<br />
your hair feeling greasy.<br />
Mere pst<br />
Viru<br />
Squere<br />
Location<br />
HAIRMAIL<br />
Ahtri<br />
Hairmail<br />
Rotermanni 6, Tallinn A2<br />
www.hairmail.ee<br />
Narva mnt<br />
Goldwell Winter Care Anti-static<br />
Shampoo and 60-second Mask<br />
Use this shampoo and mask regularly<br />
during the winter months to prevent<br />
static. Both the shampoo and mask<br />
have a refreshing orange scent.<br />
Shampoo 250ml 9,60€<br />
60 Second Mask 200ml 11,50€<br />
Buy this as part of a gift set, including<br />
hand cream 23,00€<br />
L`OREAL Intense Repair<br />
This series gives intense moisture to<br />
your hair without leaving it feeling<br />
greasy. It leaves your hair smooth, silky<br />
and strong.<br />
Shampoo 250ml 11,20€<br />
Mask 200ml 16,30€<br />
THE BBALTIC A LT LTI LT LTI LT LTI LT LTI LT L TI TTI T TI T I C G<br />
G GGUIDE<br />
UI UUI U ID I E DEC DECEMBER C EM E M BER BE BER B R 20 2012 12<br />
Goldwell Satin<br />
Guard 200ml<br />
17,30 €<br />
Spray onto hair<br />
when it’s dry for<br />
moisture protection<br />
up to 72 hours and<br />
to prevent static.<br />
TIGI Bed Head Spoil<br />
Me 300ml 21,90€<br />
Use this spray before<br />
blow-drying to protect<br />
your hair from<br />
the heat. Use on dry<br />
hair to prevent frizz<br />
and static.<br />
Wella Enrich Series<br />
<strong>The</strong>se products restore hair’s moisture,<br />
and give a little bit of volume as well.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y contain cider extract to leave hair<br />
feeling smooth. Available for: thick, normal,<br />
and fine hair.<br />
Shampoo 250ml 11,10€<br />
Conditioner 200ml 12,95€<br />
Mask 150ml 13,40€
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 museum<br />
19<br />
KUMU -<br />
<strong>The</strong> Art Museum<br />
of Estonia<br />
KUMU is not only a museum; it hosts concerts,<br />
shows and other events. It is the perfect place to<br />
find inspiration for both the mind, and soul.<br />
■ DECEMBER EVENTS:<br />
Dec 5, 19.00 Christmas Jazz, <strong>The</strong> Jacob<br />
Karlzon Trio.<br />
Dec 6, 19.00 Sofi and the Magic Bird, fairy-tale<br />
dance performance.<br />
Dec 9, 19.00 Christmas Jazz, Tigran<br />
Hamasyan.<br />
Dec 12, 19.00 and Dec 14, 20.00 Experimental<br />
Concert Performance: Diva<br />
Dec 18, 18.00 'Telling the American Story':<br />
Let's Talk About Music<br />
■ OTHER EXHIBITS:<br />
Archaeology and the Future of Estonian Art<br />
Scenes<br />
19.10.2012–30.12.2012<br />
5th floor, Gallery of Contemporary Art<br />
Geometrical Man<br />
14.9.12–20.1.13 Kumu Art Museum<br />
IRWIN. Construction of the Context<br />
24.10.12–10.2.13 Kumu Art Museum<br />
Avo Keerend and Evi Tihemets. Colour in<br />
Estonian Graphic Art<br />
10.11.12–17.3.13 Adamson-Eric Museum<br />
Mare Vint. Drawings Through Five Decades<br />
8.12.12–5.5.13 Mikkel Museum<br />
A Collector's Passion. Silver and Prints from<br />
the Reinans Collection<br />
08.12.2012–05.05.2013<br />
Fashion and the Cold War<br />
14.09.2012 – 20.01.2013<br />
In 2008, KUMU won the European Museum of the Year Award.<br />
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />
TALLINN<br />
■ Museums<br />
Estonian Museum of Applied Art<br />
and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja<br />
Disainimuuseum)<br />
Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G<br />
www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18<br />
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall<br />
(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)<br />
Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1<br />
www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18<br />
Estonian History Museum<br />
Maarjamäe Palace<br />
Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5<br />
www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17<br />
Estonian Maritime Museum<br />
(Eesti Meremuuseum)<br />
Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3<br />
www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18<br />
Estonian Museum of Natural History<br />
(Eesti Loodusmuuseum)<br />
Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2<br />
www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17<br />
Estonian Open Air Museum<br />
(Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)<br />
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee<br />
23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17<br />
Estonian <strong>The</strong>atre and Music Museum<br />
(Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)<br />
Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2<br />
www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18<br />
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages<br />
Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1<br />
www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/<br />
1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18<br />
1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30<br />
Miia-Milla-Manda Museum<br />
(Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)<br />
L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4<br />
www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18<br />
Dominican Monastery Museum<br />
(Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)<br />
Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3<br />
www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17<br />
Winter by appointment only.<br />
Museum of Estonian Architecture<br />
(Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.<br />
Rotermanni soolaladu)<br />
Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee<br />
We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18<br />
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU<br />
(Nukumuuseum NUKU)<br />
Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1<br />
www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19<br />
Occupation Museum<br />
(Okupatsioonimuuseum)<br />
Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1<br />
www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18<br />
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)<br />
Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old<br />
Town Square)<br />
www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum<br />
1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30<br />
Tallinn City Museum<br />
(Tallinna Linnamuuseum)<br />
Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3<br />
www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30<br />
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum<br />
(Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)<br />
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2<br />
http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/<br />
N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays<br />
Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available<br />
in English, Finnish, and Russian.<br />
■ Art Museums & Galleries<br />
Adamson-Eric Museum<br />
(Adamson-Ericu muuseum)<br />
Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1<br />
www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18<br />
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)<br />
Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee<br />
Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17<br />
May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17<br />
July–Dec 2012 Closed for renovations.<br />
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)<br />
Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee<br />
Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17<br />
July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20<br />
Kumu Art Museum<br />
(Kumu kunstimuuseum)<br />
Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5<br />
www.kumu.ee<br />
Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18<br />
May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18<br />
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)<br />
Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1<br />
www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17<br />
Ticket office closes 16.30<br />
■ Smaller Galleries<br />
Draakoni Galerii<br />
Pikk 18, Tallinn Old Town, G2<br />
www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm<br />
Mo-Fr 11-18, Sa 11-17<br />
Hobusepea Galerii<br />
Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town, G2<br />
www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm<br />
We-Mo 11-18<br />
Kunstisalong Allee<br />
Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town, G2<br />
www.allee.ee<br />
Mo-Fr 10-18, Sa 11-15<br />
Tallinna Kunstihoone<br />
Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town, J1<br />
www.kunstihoone.ee<br />
We-Su 12-18<br />
Vaal Galerii<br />
Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn<br />
www.vaal.ee. Tu-Fr 12-18, Sa 12-16<br />
Vabaduse Galerii<br />
Vabaduse väljak 6, Tallinn Old Town, J1<br />
Mo-Fr 10-18<br />
TARTU<br />
■ Museums<br />
Estonian Literary Museum<br />
(Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)<br />
Vanemuise 42, Tartu<br />
www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30<br />
Estonian National Museum<br />
(Eesti Rahva Muuseum)<br />
Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu<br />
www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18<br />
Estonian Sports Museum<br />
(Eesti Spordimuuseum)<br />
Rüütli 15, Tartu<br />
www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18<br />
KGB Cells Museum<br />
(KGB Kongide Muuseum)<br />
Riia 15b, Tartu<br />
http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16<br />
Museum of the 19th Century Citizen<br />
of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku<br />
Muuseum)<br />
Jaani 16, Tartu<br />
http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15<br />
Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)<br />
Rüütli 15, Tartu<br />
www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18<br />
Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)<br />
Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18<br />
http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee<br />
Old Observatory (Tähetorn)<br />
Lossi 40, Tartu<br />
Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn<br />
Tartu Song Festival Museum<br />
(Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)<br />
Jaama 14, Tartu<br />
Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee<br />
Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu<br />
Mänguasjamuuseum)<br />
Lutsu 8, Tartu<br />
www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18<br />
City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)<br />
Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square)<br />
http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4<br />
15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14<br />
15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17<br />
■ Art Museums & Galleries<br />
Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)<br />
Raekoja plats 18, Tartu<br />
http://www.tartmus.ee<br />
We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00<br />
Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)<br />
Vanemuise 26, Tartu<br />
www.kunstimaja.ee<br />
We-Mo 12-18
20<br />
Go see:<br />
A 1930s Cabaret<br />
Roman Hovenbitzer’s Cabaret premiered<br />
October 20 in Tartu.<br />
This season’s Cabaret is a little bit different<br />
than Georg Malviuse’s production<br />
ten years ago in Tallinn.<br />
Gerli Padar plays the female lead. She<br />
plays the character Sally Bowles, a role<br />
she will share with Tanja Mihhailova.<br />
Mihhailova told Eesti Päevaleht that the<br />
role is very dramatic, and one can find<br />
musical similarities with ones own life.<br />
Go drinking at:<br />
Photo: Andrei Ozdoba<br />
Kohvik Noorus<br />
Shots have sounded the death toll to<br />
many a great night. <strong>The</strong>ir appearance<br />
marks the point at which a pleasant evening<br />
turns into something much more<br />
sinister and frightening. At Kohvik Noorus,<br />
however, the simple shot is the staple<br />
drink for one of Tallinn's more cosy and<br />
fun venues.<br />
Situated away in the Old Town's back<br />
streets at Lai 10, the daytime passer-by<br />
wouldn't even know that there was a bar<br />
there. It's only at night; with a bustling<br />
throng of smokers and the old skool tunes<br />
blaring out the window that you get any<br />
idea that something may be happening<br />
there.<br />
Upon entering what at first seems like<br />
the side-entrance to someone's house,<br />
Like Bowles says: “Everyone has the right to<br />
live however they choose.”<br />
Cabaret will come to Tallinn too. Performances<br />
take place at the Nokia Concert Hall<br />
December 15, and January 2. Tanja Mihhailova<br />
will play the lead on the 15th and Gerli<br />
Padar, the lead on the 2nd.<br />
<strong>The</strong> musical will have English and Finnish<br />
subtitles. Tickets available at Piletilevi.<br />
you find yourself thrown into a darkened<br />
room of comfy chairs, blackened walls and<br />
painted giant mushrooms. It's the acid trip<br />
gone wrong. At the bar, you'll find a full list<br />
of all the affordable shots with names such<br />
as 'Bleeding Wet Pussy;' and as you head<br />
to the back, you come across a dance floor<br />
sizeable enough for even the worst drunk's<br />
party moves.<br />
Kohvik Noorus isn't going to be the taste<br />
of the leery stag do crowd but it's certainly<br />
one of the more fun, alternative bars in<br />
the city, and I haven't even spoken about<br />
the Tapas. ■<br />
Location<br />
Kohvik Noorus<br />
Lai 10, Tallinn Old Town G1. Open 6pm – late<br />
nightlife THE<br />
One of the joys of Tallinn is that being a<br />
European capital city allows it to host far<br />
more worthy options for the New Year's<br />
Eve partygoer than its size suggests. <strong>The</strong><br />
vast numbers of clubs that can be found<br />
in the town mean that there should be<br />
something for everybody.<br />
Venus Club's Viva Las Venus offers an<br />
American themed start to the New Year.<br />
With cocktails galore and the promise of<br />
glamorous people and 2001 Eurovision<br />
winner Dave Benson, what isn't there to<br />
like.<br />
80's and 90's nostalgia seems to be the<br />
order of the day with 777 - <strong>The</strong> Bank Club,<br />
hosting early 90's Brit-soul act London<br />
Beat, along with the disco divas in cages.<br />
Café Amigo at the Sokos Hotel Viru goes<br />
for a less raucous, but no less fun affair of<br />
Estonian artist Rolf Roosalu's tribute to<br />
George Michael.<br />
Club Prive offers the opportunity to<br />
see in the New Year, slightly richer than<br />
before. <strong>The</strong>ir lucky cash cannon will blow<br />
BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
Welcome in the<br />
New Year, Tallinn style<br />
While Christmas is a time for watching your Aunt<br />
Doris get drunk on sherry, New Year's Eve offers the<br />
opportunity to forget about the dysfunctional family<br />
and indulge in an evening of partying pleasure.<br />
777 - <strong>The</strong> Bank Club<br />
out €2000 at 3.00, allowing you to enjoy a<br />
night popping champagne with glamorous<br />
people, safe in the knowledge that you'll be<br />
able to afford a taxi at the end of the night.<br />
For a whole night's entertainment, visit<br />
Wabadus restaurant, Club Vabank and<br />
Club Bibabo for the price of one. <strong>The</strong> evening<br />
starts at 20.00 with an á la carte dinner,<br />
accompanied by operettas in Wabadus,<br />
followed by a New Year's Eve party<br />
over three floors, adding Vabank and Bibabo<br />
from 23:00. <strong>The</strong> entertainment program<br />
includes DJ's, live music, prima ballerinas,<br />
and air acrobats! Situated next to the Liberty<br />
Square, the three neighbouring restaurant<br />
and clubs offer a night to remember.<br />
Venus Club<br />
Vana-Viru 14<br />
Dress Code: Formal<br />
Tickets: €10 advance, €15 on door<br />
For ticket info call +3725519999 or email<br />
venus@venusclub.ee.<br />
777 <strong>The</strong> Bank Club<br />
Tickets: € 25 advance, €35 on door<br />
Cafe Amigo<br />
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn Old Town<br />
Tickets: €13 on door, €8 for VIP card holders<br />
Club Privé<br />
Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town<br />
Tickets: €20, €15 with flyer<br />
info: +372 56 256 000<br />
Wabadus, Vabank, Bibabo<br />
Vabank, Bibabo, Wabadus<br />
Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1<br />
Dress Code: formal<br />
Tickets: 20:00 entry: €65 for dinner party<br />
and club, €35 for snacks and drinks and<br />
later entry; entry at 23:00: €25 on door, €15<br />
advance from Piletilevi www.piletilevi.ee<br />
www.vabank.ee, www.bibabo.ee, www.<br />
wabadus.ee
THE BALTIC GUIDE DDE D E DE DECEMBER NOVEMBER OCE CEM EM BE BER ER 20 2012<br />
2012 0 12 2<br />
21<br />
Thank you<br />
Rock Gods, thank you<br />
Muse's appearance in Estonia goes to show that this is no<br />
longer the place where 80's acts come to die.<br />
Kim Wilde, Smokie, Right Said<br />
Fred: All these bands have played<br />
in Tallinn over the last year. This<br />
does not inspire the music lover in<br />
Tallinn's ability to provide quality<br />
entertainment. However, bigger,<br />
less past it, acts that are still<br />
downloaded on iTunes are starting<br />
to appear here. In the recent<br />
past we have seen concerts by the<br />
Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Mika,<br />
and the Manic Street Preachers.<br />
Things seem to be moving in the<br />
Photo: Anja Fonseka<br />
nightlife<br />
Every month, English ex-pat, Mark Benn, shares<br />
his thoughts on where to spend your evenings,<br />
be it drinking, dancing, or going to a gig.<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong> <strong>Guide</strong><br />
recommends:<br />
right direction as shown by the<br />
fact that on 11th December at Saku<br />
Suurhall, Muse will be performing<br />
in Tallinn.<br />
Today, Muse are one of the top<br />
rock acts in Europe, playing sold<br />
out shows across the globe and<br />
gaining so much air time on radio<br />
and TV, that to describe the band's<br />
brand of symphonic rock seems<br />
pointless to anybody with the gift<br />
of hearing.<br />
It's been a long journey from<br />
INGRID LUKAS<br />
their beginnings twenty years ago<br />
as a Radiohead covers band. <strong>The</strong><br />
last year has seen the band build<br />
on the Grammy award winning<br />
success of their 4th album, Resistance,<br />
with the release of a new<br />
album, <strong>The</strong> 2nd Law, and their<br />
single Survival being chosen as<br />
the official Olympic song.<br />
Tickets are still available from<br />
ticketpro.ee and start at €59. See<br />
sakusuurhall.ee for details. Muse<br />
play Saku Suurhall in Tallinn on<br />
December 11. ■<br />
Listen to:<br />
Tallinn Nightlife<br />
Go see:<br />
Haunting yet beautiful, the Estonian ex-pat Ingrid Lukas is starting to<br />
find major label success, both inside and outside Estonia.<br />
Unlike many other parts of the<br />
world, a classical music education<br />
is not something to be ashamed of<br />
for any modern act in Estonia. As<br />
a result, many fine musicians have<br />
been able to sustain their credibility<br />
while actually being able to play.<br />
This is no truer than with the<br />
extremely talented Ingrid Lukas.<br />
After three years of studying piano<br />
at Tallinna Muusikakeskkool, she<br />
decamped to Switzerland and<br />
Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. <strong>The</strong> city has many kinds of clubs<br />
and pubs, fancy or casual. <strong>The</strong>re is something for everyone. Be<br />
sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.<br />
continued her training in popjazz<br />
at HMT Zurich.<br />
If the results that one gets<br />
from this sort of background are<br />
as good as those found on her two<br />
albums, 2009's We Need to Repeat<br />
and the 2011 major label début,<br />
Silver Secrets, then it's a journey<br />
that should be taken more often.<br />
It would be quite lazy to compare<br />
her to Bjork or Kate Bush,<br />
although Lukas does share the<br />
Sports<br />
Clayhills<br />
Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1<br />
Drink Baar<br />
Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
Hell Hunt<br />
Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2<br />
Mad Murphy’s<br />
Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2<br />
Nimeta Baar<br />
Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
Live Music<br />
Café Amigo<br />
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2<br />
Chicago 1933<br />
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3<br />
Clazz<br />
Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2<br />
Guitar Hunt<br />
Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn<br />
Rock Café<br />
Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn<br />
Von Krahl<br />
Town H1<br />
Gay<br />
G-punkt<br />
Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn<br />
X-baar<br />
Tatari 1, Tallinn<br />
delicate, fragile and tender quality<br />
that has made the former<br />
stars. Yet, the ethereal, minimalist<br />
sound of her voice that can both<br />
fascinate and haunt the listener, as<br />
well as show an artist with something<br />
original to give.<br />
With a new album coming out<br />
in the near future, we can only<br />
hope that she has a career that<br />
continues to grow.<br />
■<br />
Nightclubs<br />
Arena 3<br />
Sadama 6, Tallinn A3<br />
BonBon<br />
Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2<br />
CatHouse<br />
Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2<br />
Club Baila<br />
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
Club Hollywood<br />
Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
Club Münt<br />
Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
Club Privé<br />
Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1<br />
Club Studio<br />
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2<br />
Panoraam<br />
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2<br />
Parlament<br />
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2<br />
Partei<br />
Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2<br />
Plub<br />
Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3<br />
Tapper<br />
Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn<br />
Teater<br />
Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1<br />
Vabank<br />
Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1<br />
Venus<br />
Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3
22 history<br />
A Brief History<br />
of Estonia<br />
z<br />
10,000 BC <strong>The</strong> Ice Age ends and people<br />
arrive in the territory of Estonia.<br />
11th Century <strong>The</strong> main source of subsistence<br />
is agriculture and the provincial<br />
government is formed.<br />
1200s <strong>The</strong> Livonian Brotherhood of the<br />
Sword is formed in Southern Estonia<br />
and the Danish occupy Northern<br />
Estonia.<br />
1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian<br />
peasants rise up against the occupiers<br />
with modest success.<br />
1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the<br />
Teutonic Order.<br />
1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war<br />
against Livonia, when Estonia comprised<br />
part of Latvia. <strong>The</strong> war began in<br />
1553 and included Denmark, Sweden<br />
and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were<br />
divided among Poland (Latvia and<br />
Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern<br />
Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).<br />
1600s Schools are set up and the University<br />
of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.<br />
1700–1710 <strong>The</strong> Great Northern War inflicts<br />
fruitless years of famine and plague.<br />
<strong>The</strong> population decreases from<br />
350,000 to 100,000.<br />
1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to<br />
Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.<br />
1800s <strong>The</strong> power of the Tsar diminishes,<br />
serfdom is abolished and peasants<br />
are given the right to purchase<br />
land (1860). In 1914, half of the land<br />
belongs to the German nobility.<br />
Political power remains in the hands of<br />
the nobility.<br />
1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire,<br />
Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia<br />
organises elections and Konstantin<br />
Päts becomes head of government.<br />
1918 Germany occupies Estonia. <strong>The</strong><br />
Estonian Provincial Assembly<br />
declares Estonia’s independence on<br />
February 24. Estonian forces fight<br />
against German and Russian forces.<br />
1919 Estonian War of Independence continues<br />
and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.<br />
1920 <strong>The</strong> first formal law of Independent<br />
Estonia is made to expand democracy.<br />
Many small political parties are formed.<br />
1929–35 <strong>The</strong> economic and political crisis of<br />
1929-35 results in a state of emergency<br />
and a disbandment of the parliament.<br />
Päts rules by decree.<br />
1937 A new constitution is written, 1938<br />
Päts becomes president, there is a<br />
return to constitutional governance,<br />
but full democracy is not reached prior<br />
to the Soviet occupation.<br />
1939 <strong>The</strong> German-Soviet Non-Aggression<br />
Pact is signed. On September 28,<br />
Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet<br />
Army to set up military bases in<br />
Estonia.<br />
1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia<br />
becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and<br />
merges with the Soviet Union.<br />
1940–41 <strong>The</strong> Germans occupy Estonia.<br />
Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the<br />
German army. In September 1944, the<br />
Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.<br />
1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the<br />
end of 1944, a large part of the population<br />
flees abroad. About 10,000 men<br />
(<strong>The</strong> Forest Brothers) will continue to<br />
fight.<br />
1948 25,000 Estonians are deported to<br />
camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian<br />
population was estimated at 1.1 million,<br />
but by 1949 it had decreased to<br />
850,000.<br />
1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to<br />
Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the<br />
population is Estonian.<br />
1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to<br />
break from the Soviet Union. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />
demonstrations, including the environmental<br />
campaign against opening<br />
large phosphorus mines in Virumaa.<br />
1988 <strong>The</strong> Singing Revolution, Estonia<br />
declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988.<br />
1991 Estonia regains independence on<br />
August 20 after the failure of the coup<br />
d’état in Moscow.<br />
2004 Estonia joins the European Union and<br />
NATO.<br />
2011 <strong>The</strong> Euro replaces the Crown, used<br />
since 1992 as currency.<br />
Hortus Musicus<br />
celebrates 40 years<br />
<strong>The</strong> Estonian ensemble Hortus Musicus<br />
can look back on 40 years of<br />
continuous success.<br />
TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO HEIKKI LEIS<br />
Audiences are still fascinated with Hortus Musicus.<br />
<strong>The</strong> first concert was given in<br />
November 1972, in the historical<br />
Kiek-in de Kök fortification tower<br />
in Tallinn. <strong>The</strong> father, and founder<br />
of the group Andres Mustonen,<br />
then a violin student, is still a most<br />
innovative and highly appreciated<br />
leader of the group.<br />
Unfortunately, it is difficult to<br />
estimate the value and the impact<br />
of music exports from Estonia. No<br />
doubt Hortus Musicus is one of<br />
the best-known Estonian export<br />
items, culturally speaking. <strong>The</strong><br />
ensemble has given concerts all<br />
over the globe.<br />
Hortus Musicus has been focusing<br />
on European church music<br />
from the 8th to 15th centuries,<br />
through Gregorian chant, Hymns,<br />
and Renaissance music ever since<br />
its founding. <strong>The</strong>re is constant<br />
change, but Hortus Musicus can<br />
always be recognised.<br />
Arvo Pärt, the well-known<br />
Estonian contemporary composer<br />
has written music specifically<br />
for Hortus Musicus. Pärt and<br />
other prominent Estonian musicians<br />
were forced to leave Estonia<br />
in the 1980s. <strong>The</strong>ir music and<br />
interpretation was considered too<br />
dangerous for the Soviet State! It<br />
is difficult to understand on what<br />
grounds irrelevant and incompetent<br />
censors made their decisions<br />
about what kind of music was<br />
acceptable, and what not.<br />
1972 was a dark period in the<br />
history of Estonia. <strong>The</strong> relative<br />
liberalism of the 1960s had been<br />
replaced by the rigid policies of<br />
Brezhnev. Churches and sacred<br />
things were frowned upon. Music<br />
was censored and all repertoires<br />
were thoroughly scrutinised<br />
before they could be approved for<br />
concert performances.<br />
<strong>The</strong> purity and mysticism of<br />
Hortus Musicus and their spiritual<br />
music hit the hearts of the<br />
audiences. People were longing<br />
for music and underlying that,<br />
something that was far from the<br />
lies of the communist ideology.<br />
Besides, what could be more<br />
obvious than medieval music in<br />
a medieval town?<br />
Audiences are still fascinated<br />
by Hortus Musicus. <strong>The</strong>ir performances<br />
are well refined, and their<br />
repertoire is renewed constantly.<br />
Hortus Musicus is only getting<br />
better and better, from an already<br />
amazingly high level!<br />
■<br />
■ HORTUS MUSICUS DECEMBER CONCERTS<br />
Dec 1, 16.00 Christmas music<br />
from the British Isles, Väravatorn<br />
(Gate Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1<br />
Dec 8, 16.00 Christmas music<br />
from France, Väravatorn (Gate<br />
Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1<br />
Dec 20, 19 .00 Concert<br />
in Haapsalu, Haapsalu<br />
Kultuurikeskus<br />
Dec 22, 16.00 Christmas music<br />
from Germany, Väravatorn (Gate<br />
Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1<br />
Dec 27, 19.00 Hortus Musicus<br />
and Collegium Musicale, Jaani<br />
Church, Tallinn Old Town J2<br />
Dec 29, 15.00 Hortus Musicus<br />
and Collegium Musicale, Jaani<br />
Church, Tallinn Old Town J2<br />
December 30, 16.00 Concert in<br />
Väravatorn (Gate Tower), Tallinn<br />
Old Town H1<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
St. Nicholas'<br />
Church –<br />
a museum and<br />
concert hall<br />
TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV<br />
St. Nicholas' Church (Niguliste<br />
kirik) was once one of the wealthiest,<br />
most magnificent and beau-<br />
tiful churches in Tallinn, with a<br />
history dating back to the 13th<br />
century.<br />
<strong>The</strong> glory of the Hanseatic<br />
times and the prosperity of the<br />
local merchants is expressed by<br />
valuable pieces of art from Europe.<br />
<strong>The</strong> most noteworthy is the<br />
painting Danse Macabre by the<br />
Lübeck master Bernt Notke. All<br />
pieces and much more are on<br />
display.<br />
<strong>The</strong> church was more or less<br />
destroyed during Soviet air raids<br />
in WWII. Strangely enough, re-<br />
reconstruction started in 1953,<br />
in what was then, atheist Soviet<br />
Estonia. <strong>The</strong> work was completed<br />
in 1984. Ever since, St Nicholas’<br />
Church has housed a museum<br />
and concert hall. <strong>The</strong> acoustics<br />
are excellent. ■<br />
■ DECEMBER CONCERTS AT ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH<br />
Popular 30-minute organ concerts<br />
are given every Saturday<br />
and Sunday at 16.00. <strong>The</strong>y offer<br />
time for contemplation during<br />
the Christmas frenzy.<br />
St. Nicholas Church (Niguliste<br />
Kirik)<br />
Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town I1<br />
<strong>The</strong> St Nicolas’ Museum presents<br />
ecclesiastical art from the Medieval<br />
and Early Modern periods,<br />
with the most significant and<br />
extensive collection of church<br />
art in Estonia.<br />
Throughout the first half of<br />
2013 visitors can visit the exhibition<br />
"Ars moriendi – the Art<br />
of Dying". It concentrates on the<br />
Dec 8, 12.00 <strong>The</strong> Flora Chamber<br />
Choir<br />
Dec 9, 18.00 Chamber Choir<br />
Studium Vocale<br />
Dec 15, 12.00 Tallinn Music High<br />
School<br />
Dec 18, 19.00 Christmas Concert<br />
St Nicholas’ Museum<br />
memorial, funeral and sepulchral<br />
cultures of medieval and Early<br />
Modern periods. Perhaps it seems<br />
weird to talk about death in the<br />
joyful month of December. Whatever,<br />
Ars moriendi is most fascinating<br />
<strong>The</strong> St Nicholas’ Church<br />
museum is part of the Art Museum<br />
of Estonia. ■
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 sightseeing in Tallinn<br />
23<br />
Must-see sights of Tallinn<br />
Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site in 1997.<br />
IN THE OLD TOWN:<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri<br />
and Väike-Kloostri allow access to<br />
Nunna Tower and from there, access<br />
to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.<br />
■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda).<br />
Northern Europe’s best-preserved<br />
medieval town hall square was built<br />
at the beginning of the 1400s.<br />
Town Hall Square<br />
■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s<br />
Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster)<br />
is the oldest building in Tallinn.<br />
■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399<br />
for the Brotherhood of Blackheads<br />
and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> Town Hall Pharmacy<br />
(Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest<br />
pharmacies, which still operates in<br />
its original location in the Town Hall<br />
Square.<br />
Town Hall Pharmacy<br />
OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN:<br />
■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak).<br />
This square holds great symbolic<br />
importance and is located just south<br />
of the Old Town. <strong>The</strong> pillar located<br />
at the edge of the square, consists<br />
of a large pedestal with the Cross of<br />
Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top.<br />
This monument reads: “Estonian War<br />
of Independence 1918–1920”. On<br />
its other side in a the Freedom Bell<br />
(Vabaduse kell).<br />
■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses<br />
the Presidential Palace and the palace<br />
of Peter the Great, where today<br />
the KUMU Art Museum stands. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are plenty of other things to see as<br />
well, in this beautiful and prestigious<br />
park. From the Kadriorg Palace head<br />
straight along the park trail to the<br />
Rusalka monument, located at the<br />
shore of the Gulf of Finland.<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> Tallinn Song Festival Grounds<br />
(Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960,<br />
this amphitheatre can hold more<br />
than 30 000 singers. <strong>The</strong>se grounds<br />
played an important part of the<br />
process that led to the restoration of<br />
Estonian independence, the initial<br />
phase in the Singing Revolution.<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent<br />
(Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita<br />
Beach, this monastery was built in<br />
1407 during the Swedish occupation.<br />
<strong>The</strong> convent was destroyed by Ivan<br />
the Terrible’s troops in 1577.<br />
■ <strong>The</strong> Tallinn Botanical Gardens.<br />
4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares<br />
of greenhouses, and parks, the<br />
Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the<br />
summer and winter.<br />
■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90<br />
hectares, this zoo houses many rare<br />
<strong>The</strong> snow-covered Song Festival Grounds<br />
Toompea Castle<br />
species as well as many large mammals,<br />
including elephants, polar<br />
bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros.<br />
Located opposite the Rocca al Mare<br />
Shopping Centre.<br />
■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is<br />
the area to visit if you want to get<br />
a taste for old Tallinn. <strong>The</strong> wooden<br />
houses are typical of those built in<br />
the 1920s and 30s, during the first<br />
period of Estonian independence. In<br />
recent years, this area has become<br />
quite bohemian, with many artists,<br />
and young entrepreneurs taking up<br />
residence here.<br />
■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie<br />
glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison<br />
life. For a small entrance fee you<br />
can take a self-guided tour through<br />
the dark halls of this old sea fortress<br />
that has served as barracks, and then<br />
as a prison during Soviet times.<br />
Patarei Prison<br />
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Tallinn with a view<br />
<strong>The</strong> old town of Tallinn is divided<br />
into a lower and upper part. <strong>The</strong><br />
lower town was inhabited by hanseatic<br />
traders and the upper town, or<br />
Toompea was inhabited by nobility.<br />
<strong>The</strong> lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town<br />
can be seen from viewing platforms<br />
at Toompea. <strong>The</strong> best view<br />
of Toompea is from the tower of St.<br />
Olaf’s Church.<br />
■ 1 Kohtu Platform<br />
<strong>The</strong> Kohtu street platform offers the<br />
best view of the Old Town and is a<br />
must-see. After a visit to the platform,<br />
the likelihood of getting lost in the<br />
labyrinth-like streets of the lower<br />
town is smaller. <strong>The</strong> impressive<br />
tower of the Niguliste Church seems<br />
at arms length. <strong>The</strong> gracious spire of<br />
the medieval City Hall has an Oriental<br />
touch and resembles that of the<br />
Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy<br />
Spirit). <strong>The</strong> red tiled roofs with white<br />
edges are characteristic of Tallinn.<br />
■ 2 Patkul Platform<br />
<strong>The</strong> Patkul platform shows both a<br />
view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of<br />
the city wall. <strong>The</strong> church used to be<br />
even taller in medieval times and was<br />
actually the tallest building in the<br />
world in its time. Nowhere else can<br />
you see the city wall from a better<br />
angel. <strong>The</strong> harbour and the sea are<br />
lying just in front. <strong>The</strong> Patkul stairs<br />
take you more or less to the city centre,<br />
and to the Tallinn railway station.<br />
Take a look to the left, and parallel<br />
with the platform you will see the<br />
pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of<br />
the Estonian government. Tallinn<br />
■ 3 Kiriku Platform<br />
<strong>The</strong> platform at the end of Kiriku<br />
Street faces west and offers a view<br />
A quick history of the<br />
city of Tallinn<br />
<strong>The</strong> name Tallinn originates from the Danish<br />
occupation (1219–).<br />
1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.<br />
1346 <strong>The</strong> Danish sell Tallinn to the German<br />
Order. Toompea was divided amongst<br />
princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown<br />
and craftsmen in the lowertown.<br />
1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.<br />
1721 <strong>The</strong> Russians conquer Estonia and<br />
Tallinn.<br />
1918 Estonia declares independence and<br />
Tallinn becomes its capital.<br />
1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy<br />
Tallinn.<br />
1944 <strong>The</strong> Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in<br />
March and causes extensive damage.<br />
1400 people are killed.<br />
1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital<br />
2<br />
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of splendid and romantic sunsets.<br />
<strong>The</strong> area is more genuine, calm, and<br />
bohemian than around other platforms.<br />
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■ 4 Best of both worlds<br />
Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church<br />
and you will discover not only the<br />
lower town beneath but also the<br />
magnificent palaces facing the<br />
slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the<br />
upper town.<br />
■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk<br />
Hermann Tower.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Toompea Tower (15th century)<br />
and the blue, black, and white<br />
Estonian flag signify independence<br />
and freedom for Estonians. <strong>The</strong><br />
46-meter tower is best seen if you<br />
walk downhill from Lossi plats square<br />
along Falgi Street. Now, turn around,<br />
look up and the impressive wall of<br />
the medieval fortification with the<br />
Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will<br />
greet you!<br />
and hosts the sailing competitions of<br />
the 1980 Moscow Olympics.<br />
1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital.<br />
In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site.<br />
2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of<br />
Culture along with Turu. Its population<br />
is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians,<br />
38% Russians, 9% Other.<br />
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24<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4,<br />
Tallinn<br />
Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu<br />
Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu<br />
Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva<br />
Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere<br />
Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide<br />
Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina<br />
Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva<br />
Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare<br />
Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla<br />
Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu<br />
Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi<br />
Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää<br />
Valga: Kesk 11, Valga<br />
Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi<br />
Võru: Jüri 12, Võru<br />
Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla<br />
Holidays<br />
1 January –<br />
New Year’s Day<br />
24 February –<br />
Independence Day<br />
Easter Good Friday<br />
1 May – Spring Holiday;<br />
Pentecost;<br />
23 June – Victory Day;<br />
24 June – Midsummer’s Day;<br />
20 August –<br />
Re-independence Day;<br />
24 December –<br />
Christmas Eve;<br />
25 December –<br />
Christmas Day;<br />
26 December –<br />
Boxing Day<br />
<strong>The</strong> work day preceding<br />
New Year’s Day,<br />
Independence Day, Victory<br />
Day, and Christmas Day is<br />
reduced by three hours.<br />
2012/2013<br />
School Holidays<br />
Christmas break<br />
22 December, 2012 -<br />
6 January, 2013<br />
Spring break<br />
16-24 March, 2013<br />
Summer break<br />
5 June - 31 August, 2013<br />
Picture: Kaarel Mikkin<br />
TALLINN<br />
www.visitestonia.com<br />
Tartu<br />
EMBASSIES<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn<br />
+372 627 8740<br />
BELGIUM<br />
Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123<br />
Tallinn, +372 627 4100<br />
BULGARIA<br />
A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn<br />
+372 648 0388<br />
CANADA<br />
Toom-Kooli 13, 10130<br />
Tallinn, +372 627 3311<br />
CZECH REPUBLIC<br />
Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn<br />
+372 627 4400<br />
DENMARK<br />
Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn<br />
+372 630 6400<br />
How to make a phone call<br />
in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia<br />
■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to<br />
another country:<br />
+ (country code)(phone number)<br />
■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then<br />
the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222.<br />
■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may<br />
be omitted. For example, 777 7777.<br />
WIFI Networks<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee.<br />
Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet<br />
hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of<br />
them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of<br />
charge. <strong>The</strong> Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and<br />
bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password<br />
may be required to access the free network.<br />
If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it<br />
may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service<br />
provider.<br />
useful information<br />
FINLAND<br />
Kohtu 4, 10130<br />
Tallinn, +372 610 3200<br />
FRANCE<br />
Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122<br />
Tallinn, +372 616 1600<br />
GEORGIA<br />
Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn<br />
+372 698 8590<br />
GERMANY<br />
Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048<br />
Tallinn, +372 627 5303<br />
GREECE<br />
Pärnu mnt 12, 10148<br />
Tallinn, +372 640 3560<br />
HUNGARY<br />
Narva mnt 122, 13628<br />
Tallinn, +372 605 1880<br />
■ Useful Phrases<br />
ICELAND<br />
Tõnismägi 3A, 10119<br />
Tallinn, +372 640 8711<br />
IRELAND<br />
Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn<br />
+372 681 1888<br />
ITALY<br />
Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn<br />
+372 627 6160<br />
LATVIA<br />
Tõnismägi 10, 10119<br />
Tallinn, +372 627 7850<br />
LITHUANIA<br />
Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn<br />
+372 631 4030<br />
NETHERLAND<br />
Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn<br />
Tel. +372 680 5500<br />
please ...........................................palun<br />
thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan<br />
excuse me ..................................vabandage<br />
hello..............................................tere, tervist<br />
good morning ..........................tere hommikust<br />
good day.....................................tere päevast<br />
good evening............................tere õhtust<br />
good night .................................head ööd<br />
goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega<br />
all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat<br />
have a good trip .......................head reisi<br />
bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu<br />
cheers, to your health ............terviseks<br />
Event Tickets<br />
NORWAY<br />
Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn<br />
+372 627 1000<br />
POLAND<br />
Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn<br />
+372 627 8206<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn<br />
+372 611 7468<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn<br />
+372 646 4175<br />
SWEDEN<br />
Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn<br />
+372 640 5600<br />
Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi,<br />
Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.<br />
Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee)<br />
On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found<br />
in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations.<br />
Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) <strong>The</strong> website is available<br />
in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets<br />
can be found in theatres and supermarkets.<br />
Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found<br />
in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.<br />
How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?<br />
Do you have…? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?<br />
where is… ............................................ kus on…<br />
What is this?......................................... mis see on?<br />
What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?<br />
How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?<br />
How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb?<br />
not bad .................................................. pole viga!<br />
nice to see you/to meet you .......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda<br />
it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda<br />
What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?<br />
I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt<br />
Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt?<br />
/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?<br />
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
TURKEY<br />
Narva mnt. 30, 10152<br />
Tallinn, +372 627 2880<br />
UKRAINE<br />
Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn<br />
+372 601 5815<br />
UNITED KINGDOM<br />
Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn<br />
+372 667 4700<br />
UNITED STATES<br />
OF AMERICA<br />
Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn<br />
+372 668 8100<br />
Accepted in nearly 100 locations,<br />
the Tallinn Card gives you<br />
free entrance and discounts.<br />
Tallinn Card is available at:<br />
Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks,<br />
Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from<br />
A and D terminals at the Port of<br />
Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn<br />
hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.<br />
■ Medical Centres<br />
and Pharmacies<br />
24H Pharmacy<br />
Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn<br />
Tel. +372 644 2282<br />
Mustamäe Medical Centre<br />
Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn<br />
Tel.+372 659 8318<br />
Keskhaigla Medical Centre<br />
Ravi 18, Tallinn<br />
Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070<br />
■ Post Office<br />
Tallinn Post Office<br />
Narva mnt 1, Tallinn<br />
Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17<br />
Tel. +372 617 7037<br />
24<br />
■ Tallinn Shopping Centres<br />
Hours of Operation<br />
Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.<br />
Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.<br />
Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.<br />
Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.<br />
Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.<br />
Mustikas keskus,<br />
A. H.Tammsaare tee 116.<br />
Solaris, Estonia pst 9.<br />
Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.<br />
Foorum, Narva mnt 5.<br />
Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.<br />
Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.<br />
Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.<br />
Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.<br />
SadaMarket, Kai 5.<br />
Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.<br />
Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.<br />
■ Currency Exchange<br />
Debit and credit cards are widely<br />
accepted throughout Estonia,<br />
especially VISA and Mastercard.<br />
American Express is not as<br />
widely accepted.<br />
Currency can be exchanged in<br />
banks throughout the country.<br />
Major Estonian banks include:<br />
LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and<br />
Nordea. <strong>The</strong>re is a wide network<br />
of ATMs in major cities and<br />
smaller towns. Currency can<br />
also be exchanged at Eurex,<br />
and Tavid.
THE BALTIC GUIDE DECEMBER 2012<br />
Tallinn city centre<br />
25<br />
LIST OF STREETS<br />
Linda Line terminal<br />
Nõmme tee C1<br />
Nunne A1<br />
Odra C3<br />
Õilme C2<br />
Olevimägi A2<br />
Oleviste A2<br />
Oru A5<br />
Paadi A3<br />
Pae C5<br />
Pagari A2<br />
Paldiski mnt B1<br />
Pallasti C4<br />
Pärna B3<br />
Pärnu mnt B2<br />
Peterburi tee C4<br />
Piiskopi B1<br />
Pikk jalg B2<br />
Pirita tee A5<br />
Planeedi C1<br />
Põhja puiestee A2<br />
Poska B4<br />
Pronksi B3<br />
Pühavaimu B2<br />
Puhke C2<br />
Rahukohtu B1<br />
Rannamäe tee A1<br />
Rannamäe tee A2<br />
Rataskaevu B2<br />
Raua B3<br />
Rävala pst B2<br />
Ravi C2<br />
Roheline Aas B4<br />
Rohu B1<br />
Roopa B1<br />
Roosikrantsi B2<br />
Rumbi A2<br />
Rüütli B2<br />
Sadama A2<br />
Sakala B2<br />
Salme A1<br />
Saturni C1<br />
Sauna B2<br />
Sikupilli C4<br />
Soo A1<br />
Spordi C1<br />
Süda C2<br />
Sügise B1<br />
Suur-Ameerika C1<br />
Suur-Karja B2<br />
Suur-Kloostri A2<br />
Suur-Laagri A1<br />
Suur-Sõjamäe C5<br />
Suurtüki A2<br />
Tare C2<br />
Tartu mnt B3<br />
Tatari B2<br />
Tehnika B1<br />
Telliskivi A1<br />
Terase B3<br />
Tina B3<br />
Tobiase B3<br />
Tolli A2<br />
Tõllu A1<br />
Tõnismägi C2<br />
Toom-Kooli B1<br />
Toom-Kuninga C1<br />
Toom-Rüütli B1<br />
Toompea B1<br />
Toompuiestee B1<br />
Tööstuse A1<br />
Tormi A4<br />
Tuha C5<br />
Türnpu B4<br />
Turu B3<br />
Tuukri A3<br />
Tuulemäe C5<br />
Tuvi C1<br />
Ülemiste C4<br />
Uue Maailma C1<br />
Uus A2<br />
Vabriku A1<br />
Väike-Ameerika<br />
C1<br />
Väike-Karja B2<br />
Vaikne C2<br />
Vaimu A2<br />
Valge B5<br />
Valgevase A1<br />
Vana-kala maja A1<br />
Vana-Lõuna C2<br />
Vana-Viru B2<br />
Vase B3<br />
Veerenni C2<br />
Veetorni C1<br />
Vene B2<br />
Vesivärava B4<br />
Videviku C1<br />
Villardi B1<br />
Vilmsi B3<br />
Virmalise C1<br />
Virmalise C1<br />
Viru B2<br />
Võistluse C3<br />
Volta A1<br />
Weizenbergi A4<br />
Wiedemanni B4<br />
Wismari B1<br />
A.Alle A4<br />
Aasa C1<br />
Ääsi C5<br />
Adamsoni B1<br />
Ahtri A2<br />
Aia A2<br />
Aida A2<br />
Ao B1<br />
Asunduse B4<br />
Bensiini A4<br />
Eha B1<br />
Endla C1<br />
Estonia pst B2<br />
Faehlmanni B4<br />
Falgi tee B1<br />
Filtri tee C3<br />
Gildi C3<br />
Graniidi A1<br />
Hariduse B2<br />
Harju B2<br />
Hermanni B3<br />
Herne C2<br />
Herne C2<br />
Hobujaama B2<br />
Imanta C3<br />
Inseneri B2<br />
Invaliidi C2<br />
Jahu A2<br />
Jakobi C3<br />
Jakobsoni B3<br />
Jõe A3<br />
Juhkentali C3<br />
Kaarli pst B2<br />
Kadri tee A5<br />
Kai A2<br />
Kalamaja A1<br />
Kalaranna A2<br />
Kalaranna A2<br />
Kalju A1<br />
Kanuti A2<br />
Kappeli C4<br />
Karu A3<br />
Katusepapi C4<br />
Kauba D1<br />
Kauka B2<br />
Kauna C2<br />
Kaupmehe B2<br />
Keldrimäe C3<br />
Kentmanni B2<br />
Kevade B1<br />
Killustiku C5<br />
Kivimurru C4<br />
Kodu C2<br />
Kohtu B1<br />
Koidu B1<br />
Koidula B4<br />
Köleri B4<br />
Kollane B3<br />
Komeedi C1<br />
Kooli A2<br />
Kopli A1<br />
Kotka C1<br />
Kotzebue A1<br />
Kreutzwaldi B3<br />
Kristiina C1<br />
Kuhlbarsi B3<br />
Kunderi B3<br />
Kungla A1<br />
Kuninga B2<br />
Laagna tee B4<br />
Laagna tee B4<br />
Laboratoorimi A2<br />
Lahe A4<br />
Lai A2<br />
Laikmaa B2<br />
Lasnamäe B4<br />
Lasnamäe B4<br />
Lastekodu B3<br />
Laulupeo B3<br />
Lauteri B2<br />
Leigeri A1<br />
Lembitu B2<br />
Lennuki B2<br />
Liivalaia B3<br />
Liivamäe B3<br />
Logi A2<br />
Loode B1<br />
Lootsi A3<br />
Lossi plats B1<br />
Lubja C4<br />
Luha C1<br />
Luise B1<br />
Maakri B3<br />
Mäekalda B4<br />
Mäekalda B5<br />
Magasini C2<br />
Majaka C4<br />
Majaka põik C5<br />
Malmi A1<br />
Mardi C3<br />
Masina C4<br />
Mere pst A2<br />
Müürivahe B2<br />
Nafta A4<br />
Narva mnt A4<br />
Niguliste B2<br />
Niine A1<br />
Travel Port<br />
Terminal A, B, C<br />
SEAPLANE HARBOUR<br />
Terminal D<br />
Sadama<br />
Map of Old Town<br />
is on the next page.<br />
Train Station<br />
Kadriorg park<br />
--<br />
KUMU<br />
Bus Station<br />
AIRPORT (2km)<br />
Tartu mnt
26<br />
59˚00'<br />
58˚30'<br />
58˚00'<br />
Ilmatsalu<br />
Veeriku<br />
V E E R I K U<br />
Nisu<br />
Rukki<br />
Tartu, Tallinn Old Town and Estonia<br />
EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS<br />
Major Estonian Towns �����������<br />
Alev<br />
Maisi<br />
Nelgi<br />
Veeriku<br />
Tulbi<br />
Sangla<br />
Viljandi mnt<br />
M A A R J A M Õ I S A<br />
Palsami<br />
Aroonia<br />
Tervise<br />
Õhtu<br />
Nelgi<br />
DISTANCES<br />
LÄÄNEMAA<br />
Sõrve ps<br />
Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007<br />
59˚30'<br />
Territoriaalmere piir<br />
23˚00'<br />
EKENÄS<br />
57˚30'<br />
Kruuskattega maantee<br />
24˚00'<br />
24˚00'<br />
Porkkala ps<br />
10 0 10 20 30 40 50 km<br />
©Regio 2008 KL-8-026<br />
Ust-Luga<br />
MAAKONNAD<br />
HARJUMAA LÄÄNE- IDA-<br />
VIRUMAA VIRUMAA<br />
HIIUMAA<br />
RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA<br />
JÕGEVAMAA<br />
PÄRNUMAA<br />
VILJANDIMAA<br />
SAAREMAA<br />
TARTUMAA<br />
PÕLVAMAA<br />
VALGAMAA<br />
VÕRUMAA<br />
22˚00'<br />
22˚00'<br />
KÄRDLA<br />
LOKSA<br />
NARVA-<br />
JÕESUU<br />
Haabneeme<br />
KUNDA KOHTLA-<br />
Viimsi<br />
TALLINN MAARDU<br />
Haljala<br />
JÄRVE SILLAMÄE NARVA<br />
Kuusalu<br />
Tabasalu<br />
Loo Kostivere<br />
Harku<br />
Lagedi<br />
KIVIÕLI PÜSSI<br />
PALDISKI Keila-<br />
Raasiku<br />
JÕHVI<br />
Jüri<br />
Joa<br />
KEHRA<br />
Kadrina<br />
Aruküla<br />
RAKVERE<br />
KEILA<br />
Klooga<br />
Kiili<br />
SAUE Saku<br />
TAPA<br />
Kiisa<br />
Prillimäe<br />
TAMSALU Väike-Maarja<br />
Iisaku<br />
Riisipere<br />
Turba<br />
Juuru<br />
Alu<br />
Risti<br />
RAPLA<br />
Kaiu<br />
Valtu<br />
Kuusiku<br />
Palivere<br />
HAAPSALU Taebla<br />
Keava<br />
Kehtna<br />
PAIDE<br />
Paralepa<br />
Väätsa<br />
MUSTVEE<br />
Lelle<br />
Käina<br />
Leisi Orissaare<br />
Aste<br />
Kärla<br />
KURESSAARE<br />
Salme<br />
Käru<br />
Särevere<br />
Laiuse<br />
TÜRI Oisu<br />
JÕGEVA<br />
Eidapere<br />
KALLASTE<br />
LIHULA<br />
PÕLTSAMAA<br />
VÕHMA<br />
Tabivere<br />
Are<br />
SUURE-<br />
JAANI<br />
Sauga<br />
Audru<br />
SINDI<br />
TARTU<br />
Paikuse<br />
PÄRNU<br />
VILJANDI<br />
Võnnu<br />
Nõo<br />
KILINGI-<br />
ELVA<br />
Võiste<br />
NÕMME<br />
Tihemetsa RÄPINA<br />
MÕISAKÜLA ABJA- KARKSI-<br />
Häädemeeste<br />
PALUOJA NUIA<br />
OTEPÄÄ<br />
PÕLVA<br />
Värska<br />
TÕRVA<br />
ANTSLA VÕRU<br />
VALGA<br />
22˚00'<br />
23˚00'<br />
Misso<br />
Linn<br />
Vallasisene linn<br />
TALLINN Pealinn<br />
Maakonna piir<br />
Riigipiir, kontrolljoon<br />
Põhimaantee<br />
Tugimaantee<br />
©REGIO 2008<br />
Riia 24, Tartu 51010<br />
tel +372 738 7300<br />
Alev-vald<br />
VILJANDI Maakonna keskus<br />
Tartu rahu piir<br />
Kõvakattega maantee<br />
Halliste<br />
HAAPSALU<br />
HANKO<br />
Hanko ps<br />
Vaindloo<br />
Väike - Tütarsaar Suur - Tütarsaar<br />
10 0 10 20 30<br />
Kurkula ps<br />
40 50 km<br />
175 IKLA<br />
347 288 KOIDULA<br />
©Regio 2008 KL-8-026<br />
84 148 335 KUIVASTU<br />
158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE<br />
Prangli<br />
Pärispea ps<br />
Juminda ps<br />
Käsmu ps<br />
56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA<br />
312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA<br />
108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU<br />
199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE<br />
9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA<br />
99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN<br />
249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU<br />
204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI<br />
300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU<br />
Tahkuna ps<br />
Kõrgessaare<br />
Kõpu ps<br />
Aegna<br />
Võsu<br />
Naissaar<br />
Viimsi ps<br />
Kolga<br />
Valkla<br />
Aseri<br />
Toila<br />
Kiiu<br />
Voka Sinimäe<br />
Uhtna<br />
IVANGOROD<br />
Pakri ps<br />
Hulja<br />
JAANILINN<br />
Assaku<br />
Sõmeru<br />
KOHTLA-<br />
Laagri<br />
Sonda NÕMME<br />
Lehtmetsa<br />
Lepna<br />
Osmussaar<br />
Pakri s-d<br />
AEGVIIDU<br />
Vaida<br />
Vinni<br />
Lehola<br />
Pajusti<br />
Lehtse<br />
Vasalemma<br />
Jäneda<br />
Põõsaspea n<br />
Kose-<br />
Viru-<br />
Mäetaguse<br />
Nõva Padise<br />
Harju-Risti Ääsmäe<br />
Alavere<br />
Uuemõisa<br />
Jaagupi<br />
Käravete<br />
Tudu<br />
KOHILA Oru<br />
Ravila<br />
Ambla Sääse<br />
Kose<br />
Albu<br />
Roela<br />
Hageri<br />
Aravete<br />
Vao<br />
SLANTSÕ<br />
Haiba<br />
Vajangu Kiltsi<br />
Ardu<br />
Tudulinna<br />
Hagudi<br />
Laekvere<br />
Roosna-<br />
VORMSI<br />
Simuna<br />
Kuimetsa<br />
Alliku<br />
Noarootsi ps<br />
JÄRVA-<br />
JAANI<br />
Rakke<br />
Avinurme<br />
Linnamäe<br />
Koeru<br />
Tarbja<br />
Lohusuu<br />
Orgita<br />
Peetri<br />
Koluvere<br />
MÄRJAMAA<br />
Sadala<br />
Kassari s<br />
Tagamõisa ps<br />
Vilsandi<br />
Valjala<br />
Nootamaa<br />
Kihelkonna<br />
Kudjape<br />
Abruka<br />
Kolka<br />
M U H U<br />
Ruhnu<br />
Virtsu<br />
Koigi<br />
Türi-Alliku<br />
Torma<br />
Vaimastvere<br />
Valgu<br />
Vana-Vigala<br />
GDOV<br />
JÄRVAKANDI<br />
Kuremaa<br />
OUDOVA<br />
Pisisaare<br />
Imavere<br />
Kabala<br />
Siimusti<br />
Palamuse<br />
Adavere<br />
VÄNDRA<br />
Lustivere<br />
Libatse<br />
Esku<br />
PÄRNU-<br />
Võisiku<br />
Väike-Kamari<br />
Alatskivi<br />
JAAGUPI<br />
TOOTSI<br />
Puurmani<br />
Kolkja<br />
Olustvere<br />
Kamari<br />
Spitsõno<br />
Kolga-Jaani<br />
Äksi Vara Koosa<br />
Selja<br />
LAVASSAARE<br />
Lähte<br />
Varnja<br />
Laeva<br />
Jõõpre<br />
Sürgavere<br />
Jamm<br />
Tori<br />
Vastemõisa<br />
Kõrveküla<br />
Ilmatsalu<br />
Papsaare<br />
Vana-<br />
Võidu<br />
Ulila<br />
Luunja<br />
Piirissaar<br />
Puhja<br />
Viiratsi<br />
Tõrvandi<br />
Melliste<br />
Tõstamaa<br />
Päri<br />
Võrtsjärv<br />
Ülenurme<br />
Samolva<br />
Kõpu<br />
Roiu<br />
PärnuUulu<br />
Ramsi<br />
Tõravere<br />
Mehikoorma<br />
laht<br />
Kureküla<br />
Pnevo<br />
Kambja<br />
Rannu<br />
Mustla<br />
Ahja<br />
Õisu<br />
Vastse-<br />
Kuuste<br />
Mooste<br />
Seredka<br />
Manilaid<br />
Suislepa<br />
Rõngu<br />
Saarde<br />
Karksi<br />
Mammaste Himmaste Võõpsu<br />
Krootuse<br />
Kihnu<br />
Puka<br />
Saverna<br />
Linna<br />
Sihva<br />
Peri<br />
Helme<br />
Veriora<br />
Kabli<br />
Kanepi<br />
PõlgasteTilsi<br />
Keeni<br />
Parksepa<br />
L Ä T I<br />
Õru Sangaste<br />
Osula<br />
Väimela<br />
RÛJIENA<br />
MAZSALACA<br />
Hummuli<br />
Lasva<br />
RUHJA<br />
Vana-Antsla<br />
VÄIKE-SALATSI<br />
Sõmerpalu<br />
AINA�I<br />
Tsirguliina<br />
HEINASTE<br />
Kose<br />
PETSERI<br />
STAICELE<br />
VALKA<br />
Kaagjärve<br />
Vastseliina<br />
SALACGRÎVA<br />
ALOJA<br />
Tsooru<br />
SALATSI<br />
Rõuge<br />
Irboska<br />
Matixi<br />
L I I V I L A H T<br />
Varstu<br />
Dikli<br />
STRENÈI<br />
Laura<br />
VALMIERA<br />
VOLMARI<br />
Gaujena<br />
APE<br />
HOPA<br />
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Hommiku Vitamiini<br />
Tulbi<br />
Tõrviku<br />
Kullerkupu<br />
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L.Puusepa<br />
Mardihansu<br />
laht<br />
J.Hurda<br />
Vikerkaare<br />
C.R.Jakobsoni<br />
J.Hurda<br />
Tervishoiu<br />
N.Lunini<br />
Ehitaja<br />
Laululava<br />
Allika<br />
Fr.R.Kreutzwaldi<br />
Sakala<br />
Säde<br />
Riia<br />
Vikerkaare<br />
Väike kaar<br />
Vabriku<br />
Tasuja<br />
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Elva<br />
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J.Liivi<br />
Tamme pst<br />
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Kesk<br />
Sõbra<br />
Alevi<br />
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Küüni<br />
Riia<br />
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Koidu<br />
Lootuse<br />
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Vaba<br />
Vene<br />
Mäe<br />
Urva<br />
Emajõgi<br />
Uueturu<br />
Kesk<br />
Lille<br />
Nigula<br />
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Pikk<br />
Kalevi<br />
Punga<br />
Päeva<br />
A.Kitzbergi<br />
Kuu<br />
Mäe<br />
Jaama<br />
Leete<br />
Roosi<br />
Ü L E J Õ E<br />
Vaba<br />
K A R L O V A<br />
Saekoja<br />
25˚00'<br />
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Kivi Kivi<br />
Turu<br />
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Pargi<br />
Eha<br />
Põik<br />
Aleksandri<br />
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Kaluri<br />
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Kirjasto Aura<br />
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Kunstimaja<br />
Väike-Tähe<br />
Võru Narva mnt<br />
Sadama<br />
Aida<br />
L.Tolstoi<br />
Sadamateater<br />
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Aleksandri<br />
Malmi<br />
Jõe<br />
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