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ΠΟΡΦΥΡΑ - Porphyra

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A Prôtospatharios, Magistros, and Strategos Autokrator of 11 th cent.<br />

the equipment of Georgios Maniakes and his army according to the Skylitzes Matritensis miniatures<br />

and other artistic sources of the middle Byzantine period.<br />

from his linking to the blue faction, or to his Generalship, we<br />

should remember also that beside the red or red purple, the other<br />

favourite colour of the Emperor’s cloak in battle was normally<br />

blue purple. 133<br />

The chlamis was fastened on the right shoulder by a<br />

αγραφηs (fibula) 134 . The fastening fibula we have used in our<br />

reconstruction (Plate 1A) is copied by the cone-shaped fibula of<br />

Museum fur Kunst und Gewerbe of Hamburg, of 11 th cent. just<br />

coming from the Byzantine South Italy (fig. 7 n. 9), for its<br />

analogy with the φιβλιον shown in the folio 213v. 135<br />

In the same folio (fig 1) Maniakes wears two tunics: a<br />

light transparent undergarment, the so-called kamision, 136 in a<br />

vermillion dyed silk, and a superior cotton garment, called<br />

himation, i.e. the true military tunic 137 which reaches just below<br />

the waist but whose edge seems be covered, in this case, by the<br />

metallic belt of pteryges-kremasmata. The tunics represented in<br />

the miniature have no chevrons at the wrists, probably for<br />

military use: but the thin kamision is splendidly decorated with<br />

what seems be griffins, and pattern and colours resemble the<br />

authentic specimen of 9-10 th cent. preserved at Museum of Fine<br />

Arts of Boston 138 . The use of griffin images in the military<br />

context is a old East-Roman tradition, derived from Sassanid<br />

133 The most striking example is the miniature in Gr. 17 of Marciana representing Basil II in full armour, but see also<br />

the figures of Joshua and the Archangel Michael in the Menologion of Basil II, folio 3 : they are dressed as senior<br />

military commanders, Μιχαιλ as an Υπερστρατεγοs, Joshua as a Στρατεγοs. The first wears a purple gold<br />

embroidered διβιτισιον under a gold lamellar κλιβανιον, and a blue cloak on the shoulders. Joshua wears always a<br />

deep blue σαγιον, wrapped tranversally around his chest and tied up his mail λωρικιον. See Pio Franchi de Cavalieri,<br />

Il Menologio, p. 4 pl.3.<br />

134 To φιβλιον, η φιβλια ; see the history of S.Nilos from Rossano, where the monks are dressed like imperial<br />

dignitaries are known for their unusual way of fastening the cloak, Reiske, Commentarii, p. 65.; see De Cer. pp. 208-<br />

209 ; Kletorologion of Philotheos, in Oikonomidès, Les listes, pp. 166-167 and n. 144; and Ebersolt, Mèlanges, p. 55<br />

note 12.<br />

135 It is gold, with quartz of conical central emerald and pearl. Therefore seen in profile it is prominent in a conical<br />

shape. See Das Reich der Salier, 1024-1125, p. 161 n. 11.<br />

136 A short tunic like shirt, s. Du Cange, Glossarium, col. 563-564; Kletorologion of Philotheos, in Oikonomidès, Les<br />

listes, pp. 166-167 and n. 139 ; De Cer. 500-501, 574-577 ; Pio Franchi de Cavalieri, Come andavano armati, p. 217 on<br />

the found of a body of Roman Soldier of the 4 th century with a tunic worn over the inner Kamision; the body was intact,<br />

with pants (anaxyrides) of cloth with a flower pattern (ad modum oculorum caudae paonis) ; the very thin white<br />

interior tunic was underneath a red military tunic, whose colour, from the effects of damp, had discoloured the inner :<br />

“...subitus ad carnem...vestis serica albi maxime coloris sed tamen sub rubea...” in Inventio et Translatio Clarissimi<br />

Mart. Sancti Gereoni a Rudolpho Abb. S. Trudonis conscripta anno Domini 1121, apud Surium VI Coloniae<br />

Agrippinae 1579. p. 619 ; the Kamision as worn under a superior tunic is represented in a lot of different colour in the<br />

Menologion of Basil II, cfr. Pio Franchi de Cavalieri, Il Menologio, pls. 132, 153, 166.<br />

137 The use of the word himation for tunic in the Eastern Army is attested from at least the 6 th century onwards; see Peri<br />

Strategias, 54, 21; but especially the Strategikon of Maurikios, I, 2,46.; for the X-XI century s. Leo, Taktika, V,12; De<br />

Cer. 677-678 speaking of different kind of ιµατια used by the soldiers in the expedition against Crete in 949;<br />

Περι θαλασσοµαχιαs εκ του Τακτικον Νικηφορου Ουρανου, 119, 4 in Naumachica, 93.<br />

138 Muthesius A., Byzantine Silk Weaving, AD 400 to AD 1200, Wien 1997, pp. 44-57, 179 and pl. 75b ; the griffins are<br />

enclosed in medallions; every medaillon of the cloth is 20 cm. high. The medaillons are set in horizontal rows across<br />

the silk and linked by small roundels, up and down. Abstract, geometric ormanent fills the medaillon borders and the<br />

roundels, and the latter also have a ring of pearl shapes. Inside the medaillons, facing alternately to the left and to the<br />

right are winged griffins attacking quadrupeds (stags ?). The design is in natural fawn colour on purple ground.<br />

26

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