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32<br />
plant profile ● NEW ZEALAND PLANTS<br />
<strong>Maori</strong> <strong>magic</strong><br />
New Zealand’s myriad native plants are riding a new wave of popularity.<br />
James Fraser takes a look at the diverse natural treasures of this unique<br />
island landscape. Photographs Sharon Pearson<br />
DICKSONIA SQUARROSA<br />
Probably the hardiest and most common of all<br />
the Kiwi tree ferns. Its relatively tough constitution<br />
and small stature make it ideal for home<br />
gardens and is better planted in groups. It is not<br />
fussy about soil and sends out rhizomes to<br />
form clumps. Tolerant of sun or shade, although<br />
if in full sun it is advisable to shade the roots.<br />
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IF YOU ARE FORTUNATE ENOUGH to live in a cool and<br />
moist temperate zone, away from freezing winters, it is time<br />
you were introduced to a ‘New Wave’ of horticultural goodies<br />
from that Middle Earth of the Pacific, New Zealand.<br />
Cut loose by continental drift out there in the ‘Roaring<br />
Forties’, but with a kind latitude (the antipodes of the Iberian<br />
Peninsula) ‘the Land of the Long White Cloud’ became a<br />
sanctuary for flora and birds millions of years ago. Away from<br />
the attention and predation of mammals (the only one being<br />
a fruitarian bat), every order of the plant kingdom from<br />
primitive mosses, lichens, and tree ferns through to podocarps,<br />
alpines, flowering evergreens, epiphytes, and so on,<br />
coexisted in a cosy symbiosis with a huge collection of feathered<br />
friends – so cosy, in fact, that many species of birds<br />
forgot how to fly.<br />
I was introduced to the natural history of New Zealand as<br />
a cub scout, sent out on weekend ‘tramps’ where we were<br />
dropped into the bush to learn survival skills away from the<br />
comforts of home. As a ten-year-old I found the rugged landscape<br />
hard work and the rainforests dark, damp and more<br />
than a bit frightening. As my legs grew stronger and my bushcraft<br />
stuttered on the granny knot, I began to appreciate what<br />
a treasure trove of plant life existed beyond the man-made<br />
environment, the more remote the better.<br />
UNIQUE EVOLUTION<br />
The sweet aroma of a New Zealand rainforest is like nothing<br />
else in the whole wide world – if only we could bottle it. The<br />
previous horticultural dominion of my parents’ vegetable<br />
garden and compost heap, although satisfying, suddenly<br />
expanded into a beautiful and complex natural world of<br />
interdependent plant communities and habitats. Although<br />
this garden of Eden has been badly damaged by mankind’s<br />
intervention, there still exists a vitality within the changing<br />
landscape that draws in the plant lover.<br />
Over 200 million years of isolation was a bonus for the<br />
evolutionary journey of the Kiwi plant collection, shaped by a<br />
tempestuous climate. Like Ellen MacArthur in the southern<br />
oceans, the islands were battered by extremes of wind, sun,<br />
rain, ice and dry periods, but luckily escaped the catastrophe<br />
of the ice ages. Seed dispersal depended on birds, (berries)<br />
wind and water, with insects not so crucial, hence the general<br />
lack of big, bright, colourful flowers. Ancient survivors of<br />
Gondwanaland evolved with new species to create a heavenly<br />
cornucopia of plants from subtropical swamps to cold alpine<br />
screed. This influence of climate leads us <strong>gardener</strong>s to pick<br />
34<br />
James’s top<br />
plants list<br />
This list contains a range of plants<br />
across the spectrum, although I<br />
have avoided well-known genus<br />
and the more tender examples.<br />
I have also deliberately left off ferns,<br />
alpines and delicate groundcovers<br />
as they generally require more<br />
consideration and attention. When<br />
chosing a scheme, decide first<br />
where you want your small trees<br />
or vertical trunks for privacy, shelter,<br />
or upper layers and then work<br />
down from there, making the most<br />
of the wide range of foliage colour,<br />
texture and shape available.<br />
AGATHIS AUSTRALIS<br />
OR KAURI<br />
The grand daddy and biggest tree of the<br />
forest with a towering straight trunk that<br />
unfortunately was perfect for for boat<br />
building. Slow growing in the wild, its<br />
juvenile phase can last 50-100 years,<br />
taking some 30 years to reach 10m.<br />
Protect growing tip from frost damage.<br />
PSEUDOPANAX LESSONII<br />
‘SABRE’<br />
A fantastic small tree growing to 5m<br />
in height, with a strong trunk and<br />
sparse deep green/red foliage on a<br />
candelabra of waving branches. Very<br />
good in windy and dry conditions.<br />
PSEUDOPANAX CRASSIFOLIUS<br />
OR LANCEWOOD<br />
Quintessential New Zealand plant<br />
with distinctive juvenile form that eventually<br />
grows into a round head up to<br />
5m tall. The young, long leaves droop<br />
down from a single stem to make a<br />
dramatic show, alone or in groups.<br />
Will happily grow in containers.<br />
UNCINIA RUBRA<br />
Commonly known as hook sedge<br />
as the seeds catch on to passing<br />
animals, it forms a low clump.<br />
The strong, dark-red colour of the<br />
leaves makes a good contrast but<br />
needs to be in a sunny spot for<br />
the best colour. U. uncinata is a<br />
close relative and a bigger plant,<br />
less fussy about sun or shade.<br />
PSEUDOPANAX LAETUS<br />
This has the biggest leaf, at 30cm<br />
long, and is the most multi-stemmed<br />
of all the lancewoods, making it<br />
ideal for a tropical look. Prolific<br />
green-white flowers matures to<br />
berries that are attractive to birdlife.<br />
plant profile ● NEW ZEALAND PLANTS<br />
Cultivation<br />
Good preparation is essential<br />
prior to planting. Generally<br />
speaking New Zealand flora<br />
prefers a cool, moist climate<br />
with growing periods in spring<br />
and autumn, slowing down in<br />
the summer. Hardiness<br />
depends on provenance to a<br />
large degree, although yearround<br />
good drainage and a<br />
good moisture-retentive soil is<br />
the golden rule. If very dry,<br />
double digging with compost is<br />
advisable, helping plants, particulary<br />
trees, get established and<br />
be more able to survive<br />
prolonged cold or hot periods.<br />
New Zealand does have some<br />
very dry habitats, while at the<br />
other end, mosses ferns and<br />
tree ferns like it very moist, but<br />
most New Zealand plants can<br />
take dry periods given the odd<br />
shower now and again. That’s<br />
why up until now in Europe<br />
they have been most<br />
successful in Cornwall and<br />
southern Ireland. The milder<br />
winters of recent decades have<br />
spread microclimates to a<br />
much wider area.<br />
If planting together I suggest<br />
installing an ‘edge’ around<br />
planting areas – like most evergreens<br />
they drop litter as they<br />
grow which provides humus.<br />
Make room for an occasional<br />
mulch, an essential maintenance<br />
item. There are no<br />
special feeding requirements<br />
other than normal amounts of<br />
an organic fertiliser at planting<br />
and the occasional top<br />
dressing.<br />
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35
and choose from a wonderful selection of very user-friendly<br />
species with a variety of trunks, leaf colour, texture, shape<br />
and novelty appeal, and as there has been no grazing by<br />
animals the result is a soft, tactile multi-layered landscape.<br />
A good example of this is the divaricate form of many<br />
small trees and shrubs, where leaves and flowers are reduced<br />
on wiry stems that grow in tight right angles to resembles the<br />
effect of an electric shock. This is a defence against wind that<br />
in other lands could be manifested in the shape of sharp spines<br />
or thorns. Instead, in some species such as Muehlenbeckia, we<br />
end up with a soft mattress that invites you to curl up and<br />
have a snooze. Another example is the habit of many trees to<br />
grow as juveniles into an adult that is a completely different<br />
look, for example in its shape, leaf and trunks. The most<br />
peculiar of these is probably Pseudopanax or lancewood,<br />
particulary P. ferox and P. crassifolius. There is a popular theory<br />
that these evolved with long narrow lance-like leaves to avoid<br />
appearing on the menu of the moa, a massive ostrich-like<br />
bird that used to roam the forests until hunted into extinction<br />
by the native <strong>Maori</strong>. However, a more likely explanation<br />
is probably the climate. New Zealand is known to have gone<br />
through extended dry periods over its 200 million years of<br />
isolation and many evergreen species adapted accordingly.<br />
CLOSE TOGETHER<br />
This unique plant palette and subsequent travels among<br />
other habitats have been the chief inspiration for me in my<br />
career in working with plants. A large number of New<br />
Zealand flora answers many design questions, particulary in<br />
urban gardens where space is at a premium. It is possible to<br />
re-create a multi-layered scheme, with non-aggressive species<br />
that grow together. Using small trees (that are not going to be<br />
anti-social in years to come) as structural planting creates<br />
privacy and vertical interest, without the later agony of<br />
dealing with bigger brutes. They can be planted close together<br />
or spread out and placed as sentinels. Under this you can<br />
have interest at mid-canopy and at ground level. In general<br />
‘Kiwiana’ is much better planted together in groups to give a<br />
verdant core among which to dot perennials, biennials and<br />
grasses to create an inspiring landscape all year round.<br />
Climate change in the Northern hemisphere and the<br />
native plant boom in New Zealand have seen a much greater<br />
variety with new hybrids available. Possibly those wishing to<br />
create a sub-tropical look without the rampant vigour of<br />
‘jungle’ plants have most to gain. Victorian immigrants, such<br />
as Cordyline, Phormium and Hebe, are now being joined by<br />
HOHERIA POPULNEA OR<br />
LACEBARK<br />
A graceful tree with initial quick growth<br />
that slows down as it matures. The tree<br />
ends up at around 5m tall, making it<br />
perfect for screening and boundary<br />
planting. It is covered in starry white<br />
flowers in mid to late summer.<br />
PITTOSPORUM OBCORDATUM<br />
A very useful columnar divaricate,<br />
which provides good contrast with<br />
other vertical planting, for example<br />
with Pseudopanax species. Young<br />
stems have an appealing tan colour.<br />
PHORMIUM COOKIANUM<br />
‘TRICOLOR’<br />
Included as a exception to the gentle<br />
community-minded, non-butch, non-<br />
variegated rule because it is a very<br />
tough cookie, which demands to be the<br />
centre of attention all on its own. It is<br />
ideal as a solitary specimen plant. With<br />
leather-like leaves that refuse to rot<br />
ASTELIA NERVOSA<br />
Similar to phormium but smaller and<br />
less aggressive and easier to grow than<br />
its more popular cousin, A. chathamica.<br />
Tolerant of shade and dry conditions, it<br />
provides architectural appeal in the<br />
understorey. Needs good drainage.<br />
Colour variation of new hybrids range<br />
from green through to red.<br />
SCHEFFLERA DIGITATA<br />
This spreading, shade lover is<br />
terrific at providing diagonal trunks<br />
among verticals from the background.<br />
Large leaves, flowers and<br />
berries are very good for the<br />
tropical look. Prefers damp and a<br />
sheltered position as leaves are<br />
prone to frost damage, although<br />
they will return the following spring.<br />
CHIONOCHLOA SP.<br />
As Kiwi grasses go I would take this<br />
genus over the more ubiquitous Carex<br />
any day of the week, especially C. rubra,<br />
C.flavicans and C. conspicua. It’s easy to<br />
grow and manageable. The tussocks are<br />
summer flowering but the panicles stay<br />
for a prolonged period. C. rubra has an<br />
attractive red hue in the winter.<br />
plant profile ● NEW ZEALAND PLANTS<br />
Pests and<br />
diseases<br />
Pests and diseases are no<br />
different from those suffered<br />
by other garden plants,<br />
although in late spring watch<br />
out for blooms of aphids,<br />
especially on Pseudopanax.<br />
The new growth is preceded<br />
by a protective jelly and this<br />
attracts the pest, distorting the<br />
leaves, which in turn are<br />
farmed by ants. While waiting<br />
for the hoverflies and ladybirds<br />
to catch up on keeping them<br />
down, it is advisable to gently<br />
wash them off.<br />
Recommended<br />
suppliers<br />
Trevena Cross Nurseries<br />
Breage, Helston, Cornwall<br />
TR13 9PS Tel 01736 763880,<br />
www.trevenacross.co.uk<br />
Hardy Exotics<br />
Gilly Lane, White Cross,<br />
Penzance, Cornwall TR20 8BZ<br />
Tel 01736 740660,<br />
www.hardyexotics.co.uk<br />
County Park Nursery<br />
Essex Gardens, Hornchurch,<br />
Essex RM11 3BH<br />
Tel 01708 445205,<br />
www.countyparknursery.co.uk<br />
Architectural Plants<br />
Nuthurst, Horsham,<br />
West Sussex RH13 6LH<br />
Tel 01403 891772, www.<br />
architecturalplants.co.uk<br />
Avant Gardener<br />
16 Winders Rd, London<br />
SW11 3HE<br />
Tel 0207 9784253, www.<br />
<strong>avant</strong><strong>gardener</strong>.co.uk<br />
36 37<br />
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Pseudopanax, Astelia and Muehlenbeckia to gently soften<br />
the hard edges of modern life. For example, a planting<br />
plan for a typical New Zealand garden could look like this:<br />
Canopy boundaries and shelter: Agathis, Cordyline*,<br />
Hoheria*, Lophomyrtus*, Myrsine, Nothofagus, Pittosporum*,<br />
Pseudopanax*; Mid-level: Carpotedus, Coprosma,<br />
Cortaderia*, Corokia*, Dicksonia, Leptospernum*,<br />
Muehlenbeckhia, Olearia*, Pseudowintera, Rhopalostylis,<br />
Sophora*, Schefflera; Ground: Acaena*, Asplenium, Astelia*,<br />
Blechnum, Carex*, Chionochloa*, Coprosma, Hebe*,<br />
Libertia*, Muehlenbeckhia, Pimelea*, Scleranthus.<br />
Those marked with an asterisk have prominent flowers and/<br />
or berries.<br />
PLANTING PLAN<br />
Any combination of the plants listed would provide a<br />
balanced community that can grow together without any one<br />
dominating the others. As the juvenile forms of the Agathis,<br />
Pseudopanax, Cordyline, etc turn into adults, the planting<br />
scheme develops a canopy punctuated by trunks that add<br />
muscle to a rather gentle soft canopy surrounding them.<br />
Watching them change adds drama to any garden, particularly<br />
in juxtaposition with the spreading divaricates.<br />
The variety of leaf colour offered by hybrids of<br />
Pittosporum and varieties of Lophomyrtus, Corokia and others<br />
is another attraction, although I generally avoid variegated<br />
hybrids preferring the muted tones and more dependable<br />
species, varieties propagated from true natives as opposed to<br />
in the laboratory. Indeed, checking the provenance of the<br />
parent material of your New Zealand specimens is worthwhile.<br />
Material from the bottom of the South Island will be hardier<br />
than that taken from the subtropics 1,200 miles further north<br />
and it is worth avoiding these. Some species also have many<br />
subspecies, an indication of pronounced regional differences<br />
of some varieties. A good example of this is Phormium tenax,<br />
which has in the range of 25 plus sub species.<br />
The <strong>Maori</strong> depended on this huge variety of plant material<br />
as food, medicine, fibre etc, engendering a spiritual bond<br />
and respect of plant life ruled by the laws of Tapu. Early<br />
missionaries sought to break this bond by encouraging<br />
massive burning and destruction of the forests. Thankfully<br />
the situation is now reversed and it is potentially very exciting<br />
to think that we are probably just scratching the surface of<br />
possible new plants from this Pacific outpost that we can<br />
plant in our own gardens. ■<br />
38<br />
SOPHORA SP.<br />
A collection of small leguminous trees<br />
that are profuse and early flowering.<br />
They range from very cute divaricate<br />
forms such as S. prostrata to taller<br />
varieties such as S. tetraptera, which<br />
are very good against walls.<br />
MUEHLENBECKIA ASTONII<br />
This hardy divaricate shrub is a<br />
particular favourite of mine. Delightful<br />
heart-shaped leaves on wiry stems<br />
make for a good contrast in mixed<br />
planting. Native to my home town<br />
of ‘windy’ Wellington, where it grows<br />
on exposed hillsides, it tends to lose<br />
its foliage in the winter.<br />
CHIONOCHLOA RUBRA<br />
A sprawling version of M.astonii, but<br />
more vigorous, it can be used as a<br />
climber if given material to climb on. I<br />
tend to avoid using climbing plants as<br />
they interfere with the vertical trunks<br />
and require continual maintenance, but<br />
this is an exception.<br />
MYRSINE AQUILONIA<br />
A delightful graceful small tree with a<br />
larger leaf than most divaricates and a<br />
fan-like habi,t which is very useful in<br />
filling in the understorey where space is<br />
tight. Trunks and branches have an<br />
attractive white spotting that get better<br />
as the plant gets bigger.<br />
LOPHOMYRTUS SP<br />
A useful, compact, fluffy small<br />
tree that can add an attractive<br />
hue to any mixed planting scheme,<br />
especially the bronze and red<br />
hybrids, L. x ralphii. A profusion<br />
of summer flowers is followed<br />
by attractive berries. Can be<br />
pruned into a compact shape.<br />
MYRSINE AUSTRALIS<br />
Another good foliage plant with crinkled<br />
light green leaves on reddish<br />
branches. Happy in most situations. Like<br />
M. aquilonia flowers become attractive<br />
dark berries that stand out against the<br />
light foliage. It can also be trimmed to<br />
maintain a dense bushy shape.<br />
plant profile ● NEW ZEALAND PLANTS<br />
Further reading<br />
The Gardener’s Encyclopedia<br />
of New Zealand Native Plants<br />
Yvonne Cave and Valda<br />
Paddison (Timber Press, 2000)<br />
An essential reference book<br />
that includes modern hybrids<br />
with great photographs.<br />
The Native Trees of New<br />
Zealand and Native New<br />
Zealand Flowering Plants<br />
both by JT Salmon (Reed, 1997/<br />
1991) A good reference to<br />
accompany the above by the<br />
godfather of NZ plant books.<br />
Includes his own photographs.<br />
Lifestyles of New Zealand<br />
Forest Plants and New<br />
Zealand Coast and Mountain<br />
Plants both by John Dawson<br />
and Rob Lucas,(Touchwood<br />
Books) Both out of print but<br />
secondhand copies may be<br />
available. A great introduction<br />
to how New Zealand plants<br />
grow together in their wild<br />
communities.<br />
Ecology and History in a<br />
New Zealand Landscape<br />
Geoff Park (Victoria University<br />
Press, 1995)<br />
A fascinating and absorbing<br />
personal look at the impact of<br />
<strong>Maori</strong> and European settlers<br />
on the New Zealand ecology.<br />
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