SPA Concepts: Optical Effects in SPA Products 8-2008 - Eckart

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COSMETICS SPA CONCEPTS K. Steinbach, U. Schmidt* SPA Concepts: Optical Effects in SPA Products Keywords: optical effects, pearlescent pigments, SPA � Introduction For some time, the market segment of SPA products experiences a fast growth. For instance, the number of new products launched on the market claiming »well-being« or »SPA« increased from 2006 to 2007 about 100%. This trend which is mainly seen among the product categories of skin care and bath & soap products, does not only lead to a rising number of SPA related claims, but also to a rising number of Spa related product lines. � Color Perception and Marketing From a marketing point of view, the visual appearance of a product is one of the essential parameters to catch the consumers first attention. Consequently it also has strong impact on the potential sales of the product. Following the motto »there is never a second chance to create a first impression«, cosmetic products have to convince by their visual appearance in order to trigger customer interest. Talking about the acceptance or rejection of a product concept, other parameters like the texture and smell of a product are following only on the second and third place in regards to their importance. For eye catching purpose, there are different options to modify the optical appearance of a cosmetic product, either by the outer packaging (type, shape, color, label etc.) or by the inner design of the product like the color, optical additives like peeling beads and the use of effect pigments. Especially the inner product design can have tremendous influence on the credibility of the product claims, as shown in previous fundamental studies (2). According to these studies for example, a disinfecting mouthwash colored in red or yellow could never convince a consumer of its effective action, whereas a blue disinfecting mouthwash would be seriously convincing. Abstract � Optical Effects achieved by Pearlescent Pigments The optical effect of transparent pearlescent pigments originates from a multiple light refraction on thin metal oxide layers (3). Depending on the composition and type of the used metal oxides, various color and gloss effects can be created. The most important group of pearlescent pigments, the interference pigments, The color perception of the human eye was already investigated by the famous german poet, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe in 1810. According to his studies, colors have a psychological effect on human beings and influence their emotions (1). Nowadays, these findings can help to modify the optical appearance of modern cosmetics, in such a way that consumers are emotionally attracted by these products. The segment of SPA products is predestined for a more detailed analysis of optical effects and their relation to the texture and the smell of cosmetic products, especially in regards to product claims. In this particular segment one can find very emotional product claims which rises extremely the expectations of the consumers. The SPA concepts showcase the great potential of optical effects to emphasize emotional product claims in a visible way, by means of different cosmetic applications ranging from facial cleaners to facial peelings and massage oils. 2 SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-2008
COSMETICS SPA CONCEPTS is produced by coating of natural mica platelets with titanium dioxide and enables – depending on the coating thickness – to imitate the whole spectrum of rainbow colors. Furthermore, additional gold and earth tone color shades can be achieved by coatings with iron oxide as well as combinations of iron oxides and titanium dioxide. Thanks to their physiological harmlessness, pearlescent pigments are well suited for the use in any kind of color cosmetic or personal care application. Based on their variety, the available pigment range offers a huge palette of possible visual effects for the use in cosmetic products, for example in SPA products. For a better understanding of the diverse design capabilities of pearlescent pigments, a common consideration of particle size and color is necessary. Depending on the particle size one can achieve silky and satin effects when using particles smaller than 25µm and in contrast to this very brilliant and glittery effects when using particle sizes up to 150 µm. The final visual effect in the cosmetic application not only depends on the chosen particle size, but also on the pigmentation level as well as on the characteristics of the application system. Low pigmentation levels (0.01% - 0.6%) will lead to enhanced product aesthetics, whereas higher pigment concentrations (1% - 5%) will enable to achieve visible effects on skin and hair. In this respect, the characteristics of the application system play an important role in such a way that transparent systems will require significantly lower pigment use levels than opaque systems or emulsions. � SPA Concepts In order to meet the steadily growing demand of SPA products, new ideas and concepts are required. The knowledge about the color perception of the human eye and the resulting associations can be used for the creation of successful product concepts, by combining product claims, textures and smell (Fig.). Clean & Peel Blue Pearl »Clean & Peel« is a facial wash and peeling concept which is technically speak- ing, based on sugar esters. These emulsifiers allow to create a clear D-phase by using a special emulsification technique and a low water content in the product. This kind of concentrated emulsion is very well suited for the use as facial cleanser as they are firstly present in high viscosity but still good spreadability and are easily washed off in contact with water due to a dilution effect. Optically, the »Blue Pearl« concept is realized by the use of blue interference pearl pigments with a particle size of 15-70µm. In the clear D-phase system, these pigments show very impressive interference effects already at very low use levels. Finally, the concept is accomplished by a very fresh smell which completes the concepts association of »fresh, pure and cleansing« (Formulation 1). Facial Wash Aloha Lemon The facial cleansing concept »Facial Wash Aloha Lemon« is based on a low viscosity transparent surfactant base, containing lemon extract as an active component and as a fragrance. Optically the product is supported by a golden interference pigment with a particle size of 20-150µm which creates a very sophisticated and luxurious look in the final product thanks to the big particle size fraction. Altogether, this concept is associated with »lemon-like, freshness and happiness« (Formulation 2). Color Smell Texture Fig. Interaction of Color, Smell and Texture, as design parameters of cosmetic applications Peeling Marmalade Strawberry Yogurt The face peeling »Strawberry Yogurt« is based on a very special food-like texture realized by a jellified surfactant base which implicates a yogurt appearance. This texture is supported by yogurt powder as an active component and a very fruity strawberry fragrance being the fruity part of the »strawberry yogurt«. The visual implementation of this fruity concept happens with the help of a green interference pearl pigment with a particle size of 20-150µm. In this composition, the green interference pigment is combined with red peeling beads which stands for the strawberry aspect of the product and sums up perfectly the concept association of »sweet and fruity« (Formulation 3). Foamy Peeling Coconut Shell For this body peeling »Foamy Peeling Coconut Shell« a similar food-like texture was used, based on a jellified surfactant base. This special texture which really differentiates itself from conventional peeling products, expresses an indulging body application by its sensory aspect and contains coconut pulp water as active component, completed with a coconut fragrance to enhance the »Coconut Shell« concept. The visual design of the concept combines peeling beads made of coconut shell with a golden interference pearl pigment. The particle size 4 SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-2008
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SPA Concepts: Optical Effects in SPA Products 8-2008 - Eckart

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