SPA Concepts: Optical Effects in SPA Products 8-2008 - Eckart
SPA Concepts: Optical Effects in SPA Products 8-2008 - Eckart
SPA Concepts: Optical Effects in SPA Products 8-2008 - Eckart
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8-<strong>2008</strong><br />
English Edition<br />
International Journal for Applied Science<br />
• Personal Care • Detergents • Specialties<br />
K. Ste<strong>in</strong>bach, U. Schmidt<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> <strong>Concepts</strong>:<br />
<strong>Optical</strong> <strong>Effects</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>SPA</strong> <strong>Products</strong>
COSMETICS<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> CONCEPTS<br />
K. Ste<strong>in</strong>bach, U. Schmidt*<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> <strong>Concepts</strong>:<br />
<strong>Optical</strong> <strong>Effects</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>SPA</strong> <strong>Products</strong><br />
Keywords: optical effects, pearlescent pigments, <strong>SPA</strong><br />
� Introduction<br />
For some time, the market segment of<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> products experiences a fast growth.<br />
For <strong>in</strong>stance, the number of new products<br />
launched on the market claim<strong>in</strong>g<br />
»well-be<strong>in</strong>g« or »<strong>SPA</strong>« <strong>in</strong>creased from 2006<br />
to 2007 about 100%. This trend which is<br />
ma<strong>in</strong>ly seen among the product categories<br />
of sk<strong>in</strong> care and bath & soap products,<br />
does not only lead to a ris<strong>in</strong>g number<br />
of <strong>SPA</strong> related claims, but also to a<br />
ris<strong>in</strong>g number of Spa related product<br />
l<strong>in</strong>es.<br />
� Color Perception and Market<strong>in</strong>g<br />
From a market<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t of view, the visual<br />
appearance of a product is one of<br />
the essential parameters to catch the<br />
consumers first attention. Consequently<br />
it also has strong impact on the potential<br />
sales of the product. Follow<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
motto »there is never a second chance to<br />
create a first impression«, cosmetic products<br />
have to conv<strong>in</strong>ce by their visual appearance<br />
<strong>in</strong> order to trigger customer <strong>in</strong>terest.<br />
Talk<strong>in</strong>g about the acceptance or<br />
rejection of a product concept, other parameters<br />
like the texture and smell of a<br />
product are follow<strong>in</strong>g only on the second<br />
and third place <strong>in</strong> regards to their<br />
importance. For eye catch<strong>in</strong>g purpose,<br />
there are different options to modify the<br />
optical appearance of a cosmetic product,<br />
either by the outer packag<strong>in</strong>g (type,<br />
shape, color, label etc.) or by the <strong>in</strong>ner<br />
design of the product like the color, op-<br />
tical additives like peel<strong>in</strong>g beads and the<br />
use of effect pigments. Especially the <strong>in</strong>ner<br />
product design can have tremendous<br />
<strong>in</strong>fluence on the credibility of the product<br />
claims, as shown <strong>in</strong> previous fundamental<br />
studies (2). Accord<strong>in</strong>g to these<br />
studies for example, a dis<strong>in</strong>fect<strong>in</strong>g mouthwash<br />
colored <strong>in</strong> red or yellow could never<br />
conv<strong>in</strong>ce a consumer of its effective action,<br />
whereas a blue dis<strong>in</strong>fect<strong>in</strong>g mouthwash<br />
would be seriously conv<strong>in</strong>c<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Abstract<br />
� <strong>Optical</strong> <strong>Effects</strong> achieved by<br />
Pearlescent Pigments<br />
The optical effect of transparent pearlescent<br />
pigments orig<strong>in</strong>ates from a multiple<br />
light refraction on th<strong>in</strong> metal oxide<br />
layers (3). Depend<strong>in</strong>g on the composition<br />
and type of the used metal oxides, various<br />
color and gloss effects can be created.<br />
The most important group of pearlescent<br />
pigments, the <strong>in</strong>terference pigments,<br />
The color perception of the human eye was already <strong>in</strong>vestigated by the<br />
famous german poet, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe <strong>in</strong> 1810. Accord<strong>in</strong>g<br />
to his studies, colors have a psychological effect on human be<strong>in</strong>gs and<br />
<strong>in</strong>fluence their emotions (1). Nowadays, these f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>gs can help to modify<br />
the optical appearance of modern cosmetics, <strong>in</strong> such a way that consumers<br />
are emotionally attracted by these products.<br />
The segment of <strong>SPA</strong> products is predest<strong>in</strong>ed for a more detailed analysis of<br />
optical effects and their relation to the texture and the smell of cosmetic<br />
products, especially <strong>in</strong> regards to product claims. In this particular segment<br />
one can f<strong>in</strong>d very emotional product claims which rises extremely the expectations<br />
of the consumers.<br />
The <strong>SPA</strong> concepts showcase the great potential of optical effects to emphasize<br />
emotional product claims <strong>in</strong> a visible way, by means of different cosmetic<br />
applications rang<strong>in</strong>g from facial cleaners to facial peel<strong>in</strong>gs and massage<br />
oils.<br />
2 SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-<strong>2008</strong>
COSMETICS<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> CONCEPTS<br />
is produced by coat<strong>in</strong>g of natural mica<br />
platelets with titanium dioxide and enables<br />
– depend<strong>in</strong>g on the coat<strong>in</strong>g thickness<br />
– to imitate the whole spectrum of<br />
ra<strong>in</strong>bow colors. Furthermore, additional<br />
gold and earth tone color shades can be<br />
achieved by coat<strong>in</strong>gs with iron oxide as<br />
well as comb<strong>in</strong>ations of iron oxides and<br />
titanium dioxide.<br />
Thanks to their physiological harmlessness,<br />
pearlescent pigments are well suited<br />
for the use <strong>in</strong> any k<strong>in</strong>d of color cosmetic<br />
or personal care application. Based<br />
on their variety, the available pigment<br />
range offers a huge palette of possible<br />
visual effects for the use <strong>in</strong> cosmetic<br />
products, for example <strong>in</strong> <strong>SPA</strong> products.<br />
For a better understand<strong>in</strong>g of the diverse<br />
design capabilities of pearlescent pigments,<br />
a common consideration of particle<br />
size and color is necessary. Depend<strong>in</strong>g<br />
on the particle size one can achieve<br />
silky and sat<strong>in</strong> effects when us<strong>in</strong>g particles<br />
smaller than 25µm and <strong>in</strong> contrast<br />
to this very brilliant and glittery effects<br />
when us<strong>in</strong>g particle sizes up to 150 µm.<br />
The f<strong>in</strong>al visual effect <strong>in</strong> the cosmetic application<br />
not only depends on the chosen<br />
particle size, but also on the pigmentation<br />
level as well as on the characteristics<br />
of the application system. Low<br />
pigmentation levels (0.01% - 0.6%) will<br />
lead to enhanced product aesthetics,<br />
whereas higher pigment concentrations<br />
(1% - 5%) will enable to achieve visible<br />
effects on sk<strong>in</strong> and hair. In this respect,<br />
the characteristics of the application<br />
system play an important role <strong>in</strong> such a<br />
way that transparent systems will require<br />
significantly lower pigment use levels than<br />
opaque systems or emulsions.<br />
� <strong>SPA</strong> <strong>Concepts</strong><br />
In order to meet the steadily grow<strong>in</strong>g demand<br />
of <strong>SPA</strong> products, new ideas and<br />
concepts are required. The knowledge<br />
about the color perception of the human<br />
eye and the result<strong>in</strong>g associations can<br />
be used for the creation of successful<br />
product concepts, by comb<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g product<br />
claims, textures and smell (Fig.).<br />
Clean & Peel Blue Pearl<br />
»Clean & Peel« is a facial wash and peel<strong>in</strong>g<br />
concept which is technically speak-<br />
<strong>in</strong>g, based on sugar esters. These emulsifiers<br />
allow to create a clear D-phase by<br />
us<strong>in</strong>g a special emulsification technique<br />
and a low water content <strong>in</strong> the product.<br />
This k<strong>in</strong>d of concentrated emulsion is<br />
very well suited for the use as facial<br />
cleanser as they are firstly present <strong>in</strong> high<br />
viscosity but still good spreadability and<br />
are easily washed off <strong>in</strong> contact with water<br />
due to a dilution effect. <strong>Optical</strong>ly, the<br />
»Blue Pearl« concept is realized by the<br />
use of blue <strong>in</strong>terference pearl pigments<br />
with a particle size of 15-70µm. In the<br />
clear D-phase system, these pigments<br />
show very impressive <strong>in</strong>terference effects<br />
already at very low use levels. F<strong>in</strong>ally,<br />
the concept is accomplished by a<br />
very fresh smell which completes the<br />
concepts association of »fresh, pure and<br />
cleans<strong>in</strong>g« (Formulation 1).<br />
Facial Wash Aloha Lemon<br />
The facial cleans<strong>in</strong>g concept »Facial Wash<br />
Aloha Lemon« is based on a low viscosity<br />
transparent surfactant base, conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />
lemon extract as an active component<br />
and as a fragrance. <strong>Optical</strong>ly the<br />
product is supported by a golden <strong>in</strong>terference<br />
pigment with a particle size of<br />
20-150µm which creates a very sophisticated<br />
and luxurious look <strong>in</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>al<br />
product thanks to the big particle size<br />
fraction. Altogether, this concept is associated<br />
with »lemon-like, freshness and<br />
happ<strong>in</strong>ess« (Formulation 2).<br />
Color<br />
Smell Texture<br />
Fig. Interaction of Color, Smell and Texture, as design parameters of cosmetic<br />
applications<br />
Peel<strong>in</strong>g Marmalade Strawberry Yogurt<br />
The face peel<strong>in</strong>g »Strawberry Yogurt« is<br />
based on a very special food-like texture<br />
realized by a jellified surfactant base<br />
which implicates a yogurt appearance.<br />
This texture is supported by yogurt powder<br />
as an active component and a very<br />
fruity strawberry fragrance be<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
fruity part of the »strawberry yogurt«.<br />
The visual implementation of this fruity<br />
concept happens with the help of a<br />
green <strong>in</strong>terference pearl pigment with a<br />
particle size of 20-150µm. In this composition,<br />
the green <strong>in</strong>terference pigment<br />
is comb<strong>in</strong>ed with red peel<strong>in</strong>g beads<br />
which stands for the strawberry aspect<br />
of the product and sums up perfectly the<br />
concept association of »sweet and fruity«<br />
(Formulation 3).<br />
Foamy Peel<strong>in</strong>g Coconut Shell<br />
For this body peel<strong>in</strong>g »Foamy Peel<strong>in</strong>g Coconut<br />
Shell« a similar food-like texture<br />
was used, based on a jellified surfactant<br />
base. This special texture which really<br />
differentiates itself from conventional<br />
peel<strong>in</strong>g products, expresses an <strong>in</strong>dulg<strong>in</strong>g<br />
body application by its sensory aspect<br />
and conta<strong>in</strong>s coconut pulp water as active<br />
component, completed with a coconut<br />
fragrance to enhance the »Coconut<br />
Shell« concept. The visual design<br />
of the concept comb<strong>in</strong>es peel<strong>in</strong>g beads<br />
made of coconut shell with a golden <strong>in</strong>terference<br />
pearl pigment. The particle size<br />
4 SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-<strong>2008</strong>
COSMETICS<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> CONCEPTS<br />
INCI Name Product Name %W/W Supplier<br />
A 100.00<br />
Aqua Water 7.00<br />
Glycer<strong>in</strong> Glycer<strong>in</strong> 86% 12.60 www.hub-chemie.de<br />
Maris Aqua without Chlorphenes<strong>in</strong> Spr<strong>in</strong>g Sea Water 2.00 www.soliance.com<br />
Sucrose Myristate<br />
B<br />
Surfhope Se Cosme C-1416 7.00 www.gattefosse.com<br />
Paraff<strong>in</strong>um Liquidium Paraff<strong>in</strong>um Liquidium 34.60 www.heess.de<br />
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride Miglyol 812 34.60 www.sasolwax.com<br />
Menthyl Lactate Frescolate ML 0.50 www.symrise.com<br />
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben<br />
(and) Ethylparaben (and)<br />
Butylparaben<br />
C<br />
Uniphen P-23 0.30 www.<strong>in</strong>duchem.com<br />
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Prestige® Bright Mystic Blue 0.50 www.eckart.net<br />
Jojoba Esters (and) Ultramar<strong>in</strong>e Blue PNJ Jojoba Beads 16/20 Ocean Blue 0.70 www.purcelljojoba.com<br />
Fragrance Aqua 0.20 www.fragrancer.com<br />
Formulation 1 Clean & Peel Blue Pearl<br />
INCI Name Product Name %W/W Supplier<br />
A 100.00<br />
Water Aqua 69.25<br />
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Prestige® Sparkl<strong>in</strong>g Gold 0.10 www.eckart.net<br />
Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate<br />
Crosspolymer<br />
Carbopol ETD 2020 0.40 www.lubrizol.com<br />
Xanthan Gum Keltrol CG-T 0.50 www.cpkelco.com<br />
Glycer<strong>in</strong> Pricer<strong>in</strong>e 9090 4.50 www.uniqema.com<br />
Tetrasodium Im<strong>in</strong>odisucc<strong>in</strong>ate<br />
B<br />
Baypure CX 100 0.50 www.lanxess.com<br />
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Genapol LRO 15.20 www.clariant.com<br />
Cocamidopropyl Beta<strong>in</strong>e Tego Beta<strong>in</strong> F 50 1.90 www.degussa.com<br />
Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit<br />
Water<br />
Orig<strong>in</strong>al Extract Lemon 2.20 www.gattefosse.com<br />
Cocamide DEA Rewomid DC 212 S 2.00 www.degussa.com<br />
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate<br />
C<br />
Emanon HE 2.00 www.kaochemicals-eu.com<br />
Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.80 www.vwr.com<br />
Triethanolam<strong>in</strong>e Triethanolam<strong>in</strong>e 0.30 www.vwr.com<br />
Methylisothiazol<strong>in</strong>one (and) Phenethyl<br />
Alcohol (and) PPG-2-Methyl Ether<br />
Optiphen MIT plus 0.20 www.ispcorp.com<br />
Fragrance Olive & Lemon SH 0.15 www.bell-europe.com<br />
Jojoba Esters (and) Ultramar<strong>in</strong>e Blue PNJ Jojoba Beads 16/20 Ocean Blue 0.70 www.purcelljojoba.com<br />
Fragrance Aqua 0.20 www.fragrancer.com<br />
Formulation 2 Facial Wash Aloha Lemon<br />
SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-<strong>2008</strong> 5
COSMETICS<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> CONCEPTS<br />
INCI Name Product Name %W/W Supplier<br />
A 100.00<br />
Methylchloroisothiazol<strong>in</strong>one (and)<br />
Methylisothiazol<strong>in</strong>one<br />
Kathon CG 0.08 www.rohmhaas.com<br />
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Genapol LRO 15.00 www.clariant.com<br />
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil Floramac Hawaiian Macadamia Oil-Ref<strong>in</strong>ed 3.00 www.floratech.com<br />
Fragrance Strawberry Pearl 0.10 www.duellberg-konzentra.com<br />
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Phenonip<br />
Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and)<br />
Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben<br />
B<br />
0.10 www.clariant.com<br />
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Prestige® Sparkl<strong>in</strong>g Green 1.00 www.eckart.net<br />
Aqua Water 72.52<br />
Sodium Polyacrylate Cosmedia SP 1.00 www.cognis.com<br />
Xanthan Gum<br />
C<br />
Keltrol CG-T 1.00 www.jungbunzlauer.com<br />
Polyethylene Microscrub 20PC 1.00 www.micropowders.com<br />
Lactose (and) Microcrystall<strong>in</strong>e<br />
Cellulose (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and)<br />
Ultramar<strong>in</strong>es (CI77007) (and)<br />
Red 30 (CI73360) (and)<br />
Titanium Dioxide (CI77891)<br />
Cosmospheres PIT-S (P<strong>in</strong>k 0.5 - 1mm) 1.40 www.pelletech.com<br />
Jojoba Esters (and) Iron Oxides,<br />
Red 30 (and) Talc, Yellow 5 Lake<br />
Florabeads Jojoba Tequila Sunrise 28/60 0.80 www.floratech.com<br />
Formulation 3 Peel<strong>in</strong>g Marmelade Strawberry Yogurt<br />
INCI Name Product Name %W/W Supplier<br />
A 100.00<br />
Methylchloroisothiazol<strong>in</strong>one (and)<br />
Methylisothiazol<strong>in</strong>one<br />
Kathon CG 0.08 www.rohmhaas.com<br />
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Genapol LRO 15.00 www.clariant.com<br />
Aqua – Cocos Nucifera Coconut Pulp Water 3.00 www.pacifiquesud.com<br />
Fragrance Cocos 56 083 C 0.10 www.fragrancer.com<br />
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Phenonip<br />
Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and)<br />
Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben<br />
B<br />
0.10 www.clariant.com<br />
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Prestige® Bright Mystic Gold 1.60 www.eckart.net<br />
Aqua Water 75.92<br />
Sodium Polyacrylate Cosmedia SP 1.00 www.cognis.com<br />
Xanthan Gum<br />
C<br />
Keltrol CG-T 1.00 www.jungbunzlauer.com<br />
Polyethylene Microscrub 20PC 1.00 www.micropowders.com<br />
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Shell Powder Coconut Shell Scrubami 200/300 1.20 www.albanmuller.com<br />
Formulation 4 Foamy Peel<strong>in</strong>g Coconut Shell<br />
6 SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-<strong>2008</strong>
of the pigments was chosen to be between<br />
15-70µm <strong>in</strong> order to create a brilliant,<br />
luxurious sh<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>stead of a glitter<br />
effect, which completes the concept perfectly<br />
with an association of »luxury,<br />
warmth and well-be<strong>in</strong>g« (Formulation 4).<br />
Massage Oil Romatic Lavender<br />
»Romantic Lavender« is a massage oil<br />
consist<strong>in</strong>g of a low viscosity, easy spread<strong>in</strong>g<br />
oil mixture of sophisticated vegetable<br />
oils like jojoba oil, wheat germ oil,<br />
sweet almond oil and even<strong>in</strong>g primrose<br />
oil. This mixture exhibits a yellowish base<br />
color, which can be nicely optically valorized<br />
by the use of a golden <strong>in</strong>terference<br />
pigment hav<strong>in</strong>g a slightly red body<br />
color and obta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g a glamorous appearance<br />
thanks to the chosen pigment.<br />
The addition of a lavender fragrance which<br />
is used for relaxation <strong>in</strong> aromatherapy<br />
products, completes the concept. By<br />
comb<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the visual appearance with<br />
the aromatherapy fragrance, this concepts<br />
sums up to an »extraord<strong>in</strong>ary, luxurious<br />
relax<strong>in</strong>g« application (Formulation<br />
5).<br />
� Conclusion<br />
The <strong>SPA</strong> concepts demonstrate how<br />
product concepts can be optically valorized<br />
by the use of pearlescent pigments.<br />
Cosmetic products conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g effect<br />
pigments, catch the consumers attention<br />
thanks to their visual design, and<br />
help to translate the message of product<br />
claims <strong>in</strong> a visible way. Especially fast<br />
grow<strong>in</strong>g markets demand <strong>in</strong>novative<br />
product ideas which can be visualized <strong>in</strong><br />
a special way through pearlescent pigments.<br />
COSMETICS<br />
<strong>SPA</strong> CONCEPTS<br />
INCI Name Product Name %W/W Supplier<br />
A 100.00<br />
Octyldodecanol Eutanol G 8.40 www.cognis.com<br />
Isopropyl Palmitate Rita IPP NF 20.50 www.ritacorp.com<br />
Simmondsia Ch<strong>in</strong>ensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Jojoba Oil 2.80 www.biochemica.com<br />
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Wheat Germ Oil 14.20 www.aak.com<br />
Paraff<strong>in</strong>ium Liquidium Paraff<strong>in</strong>ium Liquidium 16.10 www.heess.com<br />
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis<br />
(Sweet Almond) Oil<br />
Sweet Almond Oil 9.50 www.aak.com<br />
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Akosun 14.20 www.aak.com<br />
Oenothera Biennis (Even<strong>in</strong>g Primrose) Oil<br />
B<br />
Even<strong>in</strong>g Primerose Oil 5.70 www.aak.com<br />
Silica Dimethyl Silylate<br />
C<br />
Covasilic 15 3.00 www.lcw.fr<br />
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and)<br />
Iron Oxides<br />
Prestige® Sparkl<strong>in</strong>g Pure Gold 0.10 www.eckart.net<br />
Tocopheryl Acetate dl-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate 5.00 www.jandekker.com<br />
Fragrance Lavender RK2171 0.30 www.reka-n.com<br />
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben<br />
(and) Ethylparaben (and)<br />
Butylparaben<br />
Uniphen P-23 0.20 www.<strong>in</strong>duchem.com<br />
Formulation 5 Massage Oil Romantic Lavender<br />
References<br />
(1) http://www.wissen-im-netz.<strong>in</strong>fo/literatur/<br />
goethe/farbenlehre/<strong>in</strong>dex.htm<br />
(2) G. Otterstätter, »Färbung von Lebensmitteln,<br />
Arzneimitteln, Kosmetika«, Behr's Verlag, 3. Aufl.<br />
2007, S. 7 ff<br />
(3) Jäger M. and Schmidt U.; Farbe und Lacke, 8,<br />
2007, S. 2<br />
* Authors address:<br />
Dipl. Ing. Katr<strong>in</strong> Ste<strong>in</strong>bach<br />
Dr. Ulrich Schmidt<br />
<strong>Eckart</strong> GmbH<br />
Guentersthal<br />
91235 Velden<br />
Germany<br />
Email: katr<strong>in</strong>.ste<strong>in</strong>bach@altana.com<br />
ulrich.schmidt@altana.com<br />
SOFW-Journal | 134 | 8-<strong>2008</strong> 7<br />
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