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VERY FEW MAKE IT TO BLUE<br />

JOHNNIE WALKER ® BLUE LABEL . RARE CHARACTER. EPIC ACHIEVEMENT.<br />

Every great journey, every<br />

grand vision, every epic<br />

achievement. They all<br />

start somewhere.<br />

For JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />

BLUE LABEL <strong>it</strong> started<br />

in 1867 w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

Alexander Walker.<br />

1867. This was an age that<br />

would change the world<br />

beyond recogn<strong>it</strong>ion, an<br />

era that would see epic<br />

achievements in the fields<br />

of commerce, arch<strong>it</strong>ecture,<br />

philanthropy, engineering<br />

and banking. And, in this<br />

time of epic achievement,<br />

Alexander Walker was<br />

honing the blending skills<br />

that had been passed down<br />

from his father, John<br />

Walker, whose name is<br />

synonymous w<strong>it</strong>h Scotch<br />

Whisky <strong>it</strong>self.<br />

John Walker was just 15<br />

years old when he first<br />

opened a shop in Ayrshire<br />

in 1820 and began <strong>to</strong> trade<br />

in teas and spices from the<br />

New World, developing<br />

his talent in the subtle<br />

art of blending. It wasn’t<br />

long before he applied his<br />

skills <strong>to</strong> whisky. John, and<br />

later his sons, harnessed<br />

whisky flavours from the<br />

four corners of Scotland,<br />

marrying sweetness and<br />

smoke <strong>to</strong> produce deep,<br />

characterful blends.<br />

John’s son, Alexander, was<br />

like his father in many ways<br />

– determined, visionary<br />

and driven – but <strong>to</strong> an even<br />

greater extent. He searched<br />

for layered flavours and<br />

subtle notes that culminated<br />

in his 1867 Old Highland<br />

Whisky. A rare blend of<br />

such crafting and flavour,<br />

<strong>it</strong> became known as a<br />

defin<strong>it</strong>ive statement in<br />

whisky excellence.<br />

Alexander’s entrepreneurial<br />

vision knew no bounds.<br />

His Old Highland Whisky<br />

travelled <strong>to</strong> the four corners<br />

of the world, winning<br />

awards for excellence in<br />

Sydney, Jamaica, Paris<br />

and Brisbane. And, in his<br />

quest, he continued <strong>to</strong> break<br />

new ground. He created<br />

the four-cornered, square<br />

bottle so that <strong>it</strong> could be<br />

packed and shipped more<br />

easily. He slanted the label<br />

<strong>to</strong> precisely 24 degrees,<br />

making the JOHNNIE<br />

WALKER ® brand instantly<br />

recognisable. The design, as<br />

well as the whisky, became<br />

iconic and desirable and by<br />

1920 JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />

whiskies were sold in<br />

more than 120 countries.<br />

Today’s JOHNNIE<br />

WALKER ® BLUE LABEL <br />

is the commemoration<br />

of Alexander Walker’s<br />

remarkable Old Highland<br />

Whisky, demonstrating the<br />

same comm<strong>it</strong>ment <strong>to</strong> flavour<br />

and the blender’s art.<br />

JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />

BLUE LABEL is an epic<br />

achievement for the modern<br />

era, enjoyed by those<br />

who share <strong>it</strong>s founder’s<br />

comm<strong>it</strong>ment <strong>to</strong> excellence.<br />

To celebrate epic<br />

achievements of past and<br />

present a new look for this<br />

iconic luxury bottle has<br />

been launched. The new<br />

JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />

BLUE LABEL bottle is a<br />

celebration of the original<br />

19th century design w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

<strong>it</strong>s square shape, <strong>blue</strong>tinted<br />

glass and thick glass<br />

base. This peerless blend<br />

is a perfect combination of<br />

her<strong>it</strong>age and modern<strong>it</strong>y;<br />

a beautifully crafted<br />

Scotch Whisky, showcased<br />

in a striking,<br />

contemporary bottle.<br />

JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />

BLUE LABEL reflects the<br />

Walker family’s belief that<br />

ne<strong>it</strong>her whisky age alone,<br />

nor whisky from a single<br />

location, is enough <strong>to</strong> create<br />

an unrivalled masterpiece.<br />

For more information<br />

vis<strong>it</strong> www.facebook.com/<br />

johnniewalkersouthafrica<br />

Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.


Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.<br />

22405


VERY FEW MAKE IT TO BLUE<br />

IN 1867 ALEXANDER WALKER CREATED OLD HIGHLAND WHISKY, A BLEND OF SUCH<br />

CRAFT, IT CHANGED THE ART OF WHISKY MAKING FOREVER. JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />

BLUE LABEL TM IS THE HOMAGE TO THIS MASTERPIECE. OUR MASTER BLENDER HAND<br />

SELECTS THE 1 IN 10,000 CASKS THAT POSSESS THE UNIQUE CHARACTER NEEDED<br />

TO CREATE THIS RARE BLEND. SAVOURED BY THE DISCERNING TODAY, JUST AS OLD<br />

HIGHLAND WHISKY WAS THEN. AN EPIC ACHIEVEMENT INDEED.<br />

THE JOHNNIE WALKER, BLUE LABEL AND KEEP WALKING WORDS, THE STRIDING FIGURE DEVICE AND<br />

ASSOCIATED LOGOS ARE TRADE MARKS ® JOHNNIE WALKER & SONS 2011.<br />

Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.<br />

22600


“Local is Liquor”<br />

Is published by<br />

Media Options cc<br />

P O Box 650337<br />

Benmore 2011<br />

Tel: (011) 789 6378<br />

Ed<strong>it</strong>ors:<br />

Irene Jones<br />

Ilse Mather<br />

Feature Wr<strong>it</strong>ers:<br />

Jonathan Miles<br />

Dave Hughes<br />

Steve Adams<br />

Jacques Bezuidenhout<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>grapher:<br />

Steve Adams<br />

Creative & Art<br />

Direction<br />

Frankie Matthysen<br />

Print Co-ordination:<br />

Paradigm Print<br />

Advertising Sales:<br />

Media Options<br />

(011) 789-6378<br />

082 445 9006<br />

0860 300 999<br />

Contents<br />

04 WHISKY MAKING AROUND THE WORLD: By Jonathan Miles<br />

08 FNB WHISKY LIVE FESTIVAL 2011<br />

16 WHISKY BUCKET LIST: 10 Whiskies <strong>to</strong> try before you die.<br />

22 DONALD COLVILLE – Global Scotch Brand Ambassador <strong>to</strong><br />

liquor giant Diegeo.<br />

24 JOHNNIE WALKER DOUBLE BLACK – Lim<strong>it</strong>ed release.<br />

26 DISTILLERY FEATURE – Laphroaig.<br />

30 OUR WHISKY EXPERTS’ OPINION ON JOHNNIE WALKER<br />

BLUE.<br />

36 GRAIN WHISKY: By Dave Hughes.<br />

40 OLD-SCHOOL SPIRITS AND FAST FACTS: By Jacques Cortez.<br />

44 WHISKY AND FOOD PAIRING: By world experts Fiona Beckett<br />

and Charles Maclean.<br />

48 BRIE & PEAR SOUP.<br />

50 WHISKY AND CHILLI TIGER PRAWNS.<br />

52 TUNA TARTARE ON AVO CREAM.<br />

54 LAMB CUTLETS WITH COFFEE-CHOCOLATE SAUCE.<br />

56 HONEY & WHISKY ICE-CREAM.<br />

57 HOT-SPICED BOURBON BALLS.<br />

58 COCKTAILS.<br />

62 HOW THE SAZERAC CAME TO BE THE ONLY OFFICIAL<br />

COCKTAIL OF A CITY.<br />

65 SUMMER SCOTCH: By Charles MacLean<br />

68 GLOSSARY OF TASTING TERMS<br />

71 WHISKY AROMA WHEEL<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

01


140 BBDO_805314_E<br />

www.threeshipswhisky.co.za<br />

Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.


Th e Whisky ed<strong>it</strong>ion<br />

{ }<br />

As a whisky lover, we are sure that you will<br />

thoroughly enjoy our special whisky ed<strong>it</strong>ion of<br />

<strong>Makro</strong>’s Local is Liquor. Every article in this ed<strong>it</strong>ion<br />

was wr<strong>it</strong>ten by the whisky gurus themselves. So s<strong>it</strong><br />

back, pour yourself a dram of your favour<strong>it</strong>e whisky,<br />

and be prepared for a whisky journey that will<br />

transport you away <strong>to</strong> a world of pleasure.<br />

Dave tells us more about Whisky<br />

Making Around The World; as well<br />

as sharing w<strong>it</strong>h us his opinions on<br />

grain whiskies. Read about the biggest<br />

whisky show in the world – our very<br />

own Whisky Live Show, which is<br />

taking place from 2 – 4 November in<br />

Cape Town, and 9 – 11 November in<br />

Johannesburg. Don’t miss <strong>it</strong>!<br />

Read about which whiskies Jason<br />

Duganzich, one of South Africa’s<br />

leading Whisky experts, thinks you<br />

should try before you die.<br />

The distillery featured this month<br />

is the beautiful Laphroaig distillery<br />

(the name means: “the beautiful<br />

hollow by the broad bay”) s<strong>it</strong>uated on<br />

the scenic Isle of Islay.<br />

Our experts (Jonathan Miles,<br />

Dave Hughes, Marsh Middle<strong>to</strong>n and<br />

Steve Adams) give their opinions on<br />

the magnificent Johnnie Walker Blue<br />

Label – which will <strong>make</strong> you want <strong>to</strong><br />

run out and invest in a bottle of this<br />

liquid gold.<br />

Then there is food – delicious dishes that pair well<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h whisky: Brie & Pear Soup; Whisky and Chili Tiger<br />

Prawns; Tuna Tartare on Avo Cream; Lamb Cutlets<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h Coffee-Chocolate Sauce – not <strong>to</strong> mention our<br />

delicious whisky deserts. And as usual, cocktails made<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h whisky – all and all, enough <strong>to</strong> urge you <strong>to</strong> have a<br />

“Whisky” dinner party <strong>to</strong> really impress your friends.<br />

The only thing left <strong>to</strong> say is cheers in all the whisky<br />

languages:<br />

Cheers, Gesondheid: South Africa<br />

Cheers: America<br />

Slainte: Ireland<br />

Slainte, Here’s tae yer: Scotland<br />

Kampai Banzi: Japan.<br />

Until next time.<br />

Tony Conde<br />

Spir<strong>it</strong>s Buyer<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

03


Whisky making<br />

By: Jonathan Miles<br />

{ }<br />

Th ere is no doubt that whisky tastes vary when made in<br />

diff erent parts of the world. Th e vanilla sweetness of American<br />

bourbon is very diff erent <strong>to</strong> a peaty whisky from the Isle of Islay in<br />

Scotland or the smooth <strong>to</strong>nes of a triple distilled Irish whiskey.<br />

Th ere’s more <strong>to</strong> <strong>it</strong> than just a simple spelling mistake.<br />

So, S whether h th we spell ll w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>h or w<strong>it</strong>hout <strong>it</strong>h t the th “e”, “ ” and d regulations l ti <strong>to</strong> t control t l and d protect t t<br />

what is the difference in the methods used in the their whisky styles.<br />

various countries where whisky distilling prowess In Scotland single malt whisky<br />

has become a source of national pride. We’ll focus is made from malted barley, water<br />

on Scotland, Ireland and the USA, the major whisky and yeast. The malted barley is<br />

producing countries that have very structured rules dried e<strong>it</strong>her w<strong>it</strong>h or w<strong>it</strong>hout the<br />

04 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


around the world<br />

influence of peat. It is then mashed<br />

<strong>to</strong> extract a sweet, sugary wort,<br />

which is fermented by the add<strong>it</strong>ion<br />

of yeast <strong>to</strong> an alcohol strength of<br />

about 8% and then distilled first in<br />

a wash still and secondly in a low<br />

wines or spir<strong>it</strong> still. The middle cut,<br />

taken at approximately 67-71%<br />

alcohol strength, is the heart of the<br />

distillation and is laid down <strong>to</strong> age<br />

in oak casks for three years where<br />

after <strong>it</strong> can then be called whisky.<br />

The oak casks in Scotland are second<br />

hand, having generally had bourbon<br />

or sherry in them before being used<br />

for aging in Scotland. Scotland’s cool<br />

climate tends <strong>to</strong> allow the wood <strong>to</strong><br />

gently impact on the whisky over<br />

time.<br />

It’s qu<strong>it</strong>e a contrast when we go<br />

<strong>to</strong> the USA, where in bourbon making<br />

at least 51% of the mashbill has <strong>to</strong><br />

be corn. Generally about 70% of the<br />

mashbill is made up of corn, w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

Rye and malted barley making up the<br />

balance. The fermentations take a<br />

good while longer and most distilleries<br />

use their own propagated yeast<br />

strains which they have been using<br />

for years. The mash is transferred<br />

unfiltered <strong>to</strong> the column stills where<br />

distillation takes place until about<br />

30% of the mash is left over. This is<br />

called sour mash and <strong>it</strong> is transferred<br />

back <strong>to</strong> the fermentation tanks where<br />

<strong>it</strong> forms part of the next mash, hence<br />

the term sour mash whiskey on<br />

many bourbon or Tennessee whiskey<br />

bottles. The Americans use only new<br />

oak wood for the aging process which<br />

means that the influence of the wood<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

05


in their warmer climate is more dramatic. The new<br />

wood releases a lot more tannins and vanillin’s in<strong>to</strong><br />

the new <strong>make</strong> spir<strong>it</strong> and the warmer climate ensures<br />

wood expansion in the summer months allowing<br />

the wood <strong>to</strong> absorb more of the spir<strong>it</strong>. As the cooler<br />

winter temperature contracts the wood, the enriched<br />

flavours are pushed back in<strong>to</strong> the whiskey thus giving<br />

a rich, sweet vanilla flavour, complemented by tropical<br />

fru<strong>it</strong> such as banana and coconut. It must be aged for<br />

at least 2 years before <strong>it</strong> can be called whiskey and<br />

generally we get bourbon bottled at around 4 years<br />

old. Some bourbons are aged for longer and may be<br />

released as single barrel expressions <strong>to</strong> demonstrate<br />

the qual<strong>it</strong>y that good wood can impart on a fine<br />

whiskey.<br />

The Scots are known <strong>to</strong> say that the Irish distill<br />

their whiskey 3 times because they can’t get <strong>it</strong> right<br />

the first two times. However, there are good reasons<br />

for triple distillation and the Irish cap<strong>it</strong>alize on the<br />

main aspect which delivers a purer and smoother<br />

spir<strong>it</strong> as many of the harsher flavours are distilled<br />

off by the end of the third distillation. Using malted<br />

barley and grains for the basis of their whiskies, the<br />

Irish also use a combination of pot and column stills <strong>to</strong><br />

great effect in arriving at their smooth final products.<br />

Their whiskey is also aged in oak casks for 3 years<br />

before <strong>it</strong> can be called whiskey. The judicious use of<br />

bourbon and sherry casks adds wonderful flavour<br />

06 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

and smoothness <strong>to</strong> the whiskey and<br />

leads <strong>to</strong> the classic Irish whiskies we<br />

enjoy <strong>to</strong>day.<br />

One can’t talk about whisky<br />

making around the world w<strong>it</strong>hout<br />

mentioning South Africa’s own<br />

Three Ships brand which over the<br />

past three decades has developed<br />

in<strong>to</strong> an excellent whisky, winning<br />

many accolades and gold medals at<br />

the International Spir<strong>it</strong>s Awards in<br />

London. Their recently introduced<br />

Three Ships Bourbon Cask Finish is a<br />

showcase <strong>to</strong> South Africa’s abil<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>make</strong> a world class whisky and <strong>it</strong> is<br />

well worth trying.<br />

Fortunately, we all have different<br />

tastes that we find pleasing for our<br />

palate, so the wonderful ranges on<br />

offer nowadays are sure <strong>to</strong> allow us<br />

<strong>to</strong> find whiskies that we can enjoy.<br />

Exploring the different whisky<br />

expressions from around the world<br />

can be fun and rewarding as you<br />

settle on your favour<strong>it</strong>e tipple.


140 BBDO_805314_E<br />

THREE SHIPS PRESENTS A NEW LIMITED EDITION<br />

10 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT<br />

WHISKY.<br />

True <strong>to</strong> the pioneering spir<strong>it</strong> of Three Ships Whisky, we introduced South Africa’s first single malt in 2003.<br />

We are now proud <strong>to</strong> present our new Lim<strong>it</strong>ed Ed<strong>it</strong>ion 10-Year-Old Single Malt Whisky.<br />

Crafted and matured at the James Sedgwick Distillery in Welling<strong>to</strong>n, this superb whisky is created<br />

using only the finest qual<strong>it</strong>y malted barley. Under the watchful eye of master distiller Andy Watts,<br />

<strong>it</strong> is aged for 10 years in specially selected oak casks <strong>to</strong> achieve a superior, full finish.<br />

Savour the amber glow of our finest whisky <strong>to</strong> date.<br />

www.threeshipswhisky.co.za<br />

Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.


FNB Whisky Live Festival<br />

Th e FNB<br />

Whisky Live<br />

Festival, which<br />

runs from 2 - 4<br />

November<br />

2011 in Cape<br />

Town, and 9<br />

-11 November<br />

2011 in<br />

Johannesburg,<br />

is set <strong>to</strong> take<br />

both whisky<br />

connoisseurs<br />

and new<br />

<strong>to</strong> whisky<br />

drinkers on an<br />

unforgettable<br />

journey<br />

through the<br />

allure, origins,<br />

fl avours and<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry of<br />

whisky.<br />

08 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

revolutionises the<br />

world of whisky<br />

Book early so you don’t miss out<br />

Building on <strong>it</strong>s reputation as the<br />

largest, liveliest and most entertaining<br />

whisky lifestyle show of <strong>it</strong>s kind, the<br />

ninth annual festival will showcase<br />

more than 180 local and international<br />

whiskies, a choice of whisky liqueurs,<br />

a range of luxury lifestyle products<br />

and a host of whiskies new <strong>to</strong> South<br />

Africa. A<br />

Says Karen Chaloner, co-founder<br />

of the festival: “Long gone are the<br />

days of whisky being the preserve<br />

of a select <strong>few</strong>. Today, whisky, that<br />

gorgeous golden dram known as<br />

‘the water of life’, is one of the fastest<br />

growing spir<strong>it</strong> categories in South<br />

AAfrica.”<br />

Last year, the Johannesburg leg<br />

of the FNB Whisky Live Festival sold<br />

out. L<strong>it</strong>tle wonder when the likes of<br />

award-winning whisky wr<strong>it</strong>er Dave<br />

Broom dubbed the South African<br />

FNB Whisky Live Festival as “the<br />

benchmark for spir<strong>it</strong> shows globally,<br />

the innova<strong>to</strong>r” and a show that<br />

“continuously smashes all barriers <strong>to</strong><br />

entry in<strong>to</strong> the whisky world, making<br />

whisky exc<strong>it</strong>ing, fun, youthful and<br />

sexy”.<br />

According <strong>to</strong> festival co-founder,<br />

Sian Neubert, you do not want <strong>to</strong><br />

miss out on this year’s show.<br />

“Tickets will sell out quickly, so


diarise mid September <strong>to</strong> pre-book<br />

online and ensure you secure a<br />

ticket,” she says.<br />

Whether you’re a novice <strong>to</strong> the<br />

world of whisky, or a long time<br />

whisky connoisseur w<strong>it</strong>h the most<br />

discerning of palates, the organisers<br />

promise that the 2011 festival will<br />

offer something for everyone.<br />

“The FNB Whisky Live Festival<br />

has always been about sharing the<br />

passion and unravelling the mystery<br />

around whisky. But even more so, <strong>it</strong>’s<br />

about like-minded friends, associates<br />

and whisky lovers gathered under one<br />

roof, tasting whisky and experiencing<br />

the premium lifestyle that whisky<br />

drinkers enjoy.”<br />

Whisky education remains a key focus, giving<br />

festival goers an unmatched opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> discover<br />

the magic that goes in<strong>to</strong> whisky making which, in<br />

turn, uncovers new and interesting ways <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />

every dram. This year’s attractions include:<br />

• Blended perfection: The newly launched Compass<br />

Box Art of Blending Zone gives you a taste of<br />

something unique in the Compass Box whiskies as<br />

inspiration, then allows you <strong>to</strong> blend your very own<br />

dram;<br />

• Pleasure distilled: The Glen Grant Distillation<br />

Zone gives you Dave Akker, Edward Snell’s master<br />

distiller, in Cape Town, and Glen Grant master<br />

distiller Dennis Malcolm in Johannesburg, who will<br />

host three interactive and informal workshops per<br />

night, helping you understand the significance of<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

09


copper stills in the whisky distillation process;<br />

• Perfume perfection: The Macallan Aroma Zone<br />

presents The Macallan Aroma Box – a collection<br />

of 12 highly articulate scents, which international<br />

perfume company, Roja Dove, has created <strong>to</strong><br />

describe the classic aromas, and scents of The<br />

Macallan Range. Learn <strong>to</strong> identify and describe<br />

these key aromas, as well as how wood affects the<br />

colour, flavour and fragrances of The Macallan’s<br />

different expressions.<br />

• Feeding the soul: The Pick n Pay Canapé and Whisky<br />

Pairing Zone offers a taste sensation second <strong>to</strong> none<br />

by showcasing the art of pairing the sublime flavours<br />

of whisky w<strong>it</strong>h delectable canapés. International<br />

food whisky guru Martine Nouet will be co-hosting<br />

these hands-on whisky canapé cocktail parties w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

Pick n Pay chefs showing you how <strong>to</strong> <strong>make</strong> up three<br />

10 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

canapés using fresh PnP ingredients,<br />

and pairing them w<strong>it</strong>h whiskies for<br />

the ultimate cocktail party, that you<br />

can re-create at home.<br />

• The Choice of Royalty since 1783:<br />

Schweppes is the distinctively<br />

timeless and sophisticated adult<br />

drink for those w<strong>it</strong>h a good taste. The<br />

Schweppes Art of Whisky Cocktail<br />

Making Zone will teach whisky<br />

lovers the art of whisky mixing<br />

using Schweppes premium mixers.<br />

It will also challenge you <strong>to</strong> create<br />

your own cocktail masterpieces.<br />

• Become a Sommelier w<strong>it</strong>h Valpré:<br />

Valpré, the premium spring water,<br />

will be giving whisky lovers an


experience that will help demystify<br />

the art of mixing water and whisky.<br />

Learn how much Valpré Spring<br />

Water <strong>to</strong> add <strong>to</strong> your tipple, how<br />

<strong>to</strong> pour <strong>it</strong> in<strong>to</strong> your glass, and what<br />

guidelines <strong>to</strong> follow <strong>to</strong> “release<br />

the serpent” (the esters and floral<br />

notes previously held captive in the<br />

dormant aged liquid).<br />

• Whisky workshops: The FNB<br />

Whisky Live Festival Whisky<br />

Workshops regularly sell out thanks<br />

<strong>to</strong> the opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> taste unique<br />

whiskies generally unavailable in<br />

the Tasting Hall or even in South<br />

Africa. More than this, these one-<br />

hour tu<strong>to</strong>rials, led by whisky experts w<strong>it</strong>h a knack<br />

of explaining whisky jargon in simple everyday<br />

language, will completely revolutionise the way you<br />

taste and value whisky;<br />

• Become a collec<strong>to</strong>r: Each year, the festival releases<br />

a unique, now highly sought-after, FNB Whisky Live<br />

Special Bottling – this year The GlenDronach gives<br />

you <strong>it</strong>s special collec<strong>to</strong>r’s lim<strong>it</strong>ed ed<strong>it</strong>ion;<br />

• Luxury lifestyle: The new-look Volvo Whisky<br />

Lifestyle Lounge will be the place <strong>to</strong> see and be seen.<br />

Partnered w<strong>it</strong>h the festival as the official lifestyle<br />

and transport brand, luxury car brand Volvo will<br />

provide the perfect setting for networking and<br />

client entertainment or meeting up w<strong>it</strong>h likeminded<br />

friends in a relaxed and stylish atmosphere.<br />

Plus, <strong>it</strong> will offer tastings of whiskies unavailable<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

11


in the main Tasting Hall at the exclusive Whisky<br />

Boutique Bar. A hosp<strong>it</strong>al<strong>it</strong>y package includes<br />

access <strong>to</strong> the Volvo Whisky Lifestyle Lounge and<br />

Whisky Boutique Bar, a whisky cocktail and a light<br />

dinner – plus the opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> spend some time<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h Volvo representatives w<strong>it</strong>h whom you can<br />

request <strong>to</strong> set up a test drive of the spectacular<br />

Volvo range.<br />

• The ultimate guided <strong>to</strong>ur: The popular Connoisseur’s<br />

Experience, ‘The Ultimate Guided Whisky Tour’,<br />

sells out w<strong>it</strong>hin hours of tickets opening each<br />

year. This year promises <strong>to</strong> be no different. Newly<br />

sponsored by Volvo, this experience offers festival<br />

goers the opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> be chauffeur driven <strong>to</strong> the<br />

festival in a luxurious Volvo where you will then<br />

12 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

join a guided <strong>to</strong>ur <strong>to</strong> savour rare<br />

whiskies not widely available.<br />

“Whisky lovers, celebr<strong>it</strong>ies and<br />

those who appreciate the finer things<br />

in life refer <strong>to</strong> the FNB Whisky Live<br />

Festival as ‘The most sought after<br />

event of the year’. It’s easy <strong>to</strong> see<br />

why,” says Chaloner.<br />

Bernice Samuels, FNB Chief<br />

Marketing Officer, adds: “We are<br />

delighted and encouraged by the<br />

feedback from our FNB clients and<br />

the general public, and hope that you<br />

enjoy your experience at this year’s<br />

event.”


FNB Whisky Live Festival Facts<br />

November will be, w<strong>it</strong>hout doubt,<br />

whisky month as <strong>it</strong> sees the annual<br />

FNB Whisky Live Festival return<br />

for <strong>it</strong>s ninth year <strong>to</strong> The Cape Town<br />

International Convention Centre,<br />

from 2 November - 4 November<br />

2011 (18h00 <strong>to</strong> 22h00 daily) and the<br />

Sand<strong>to</strong>n Convention Centre, from 9 –<br />

11 November (18h00 – 22h00 daily)<br />

for <strong>it</strong>s showcase of whiskies from<br />

around the world.<br />

A variety of ticket options will be<br />

available for purchase via the webs<strong>it</strong>e<br />

- www.whiskylivefestival.co.za - from mid-September<br />

2011. The organisers suggest you book early <strong>to</strong> avoid<br />

disappointment.<br />

The FNB Whisky Live Festival promotes<br />

responsible drinking. No persons under the age of<br />

18 years old will be allowed in<strong>to</strong> the Tasting Hall.<br />

Designated driver tickets are available w<strong>it</strong>h discounted<br />

food vouchers and a bottle of Valpré mineral water<br />

included in the ticket price. Various chauffeur drive<br />

services and drive responsibly in<strong>it</strong>iatives will be on<br />

hand <strong>to</strong> ensure that everyone in your party is able <strong>to</strong><br />

have a good time and a safe journey home. Part of the<br />

ticket proceeds will continue <strong>to</strong> be donated <strong>to</strong> The<br />

Foundation for Alcohol Related Research.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

13


TEN Whiskies <strong>to</strong> try<br />

Before you die<br />

{ }<br />

One of South Africa’s leading<br />

Whisky experts and afi cionado,<br />

Jason Duganzich, Glenfi ddich Brand<br />

Ambassador, shares his <strong>to</strong>p 10<br />

Whiskies. “I have chosen these whiskies<br />

for their specifi c tasting notes, and<br />

because they conjure up a memories<br />

for me,” says Duganzich.<br />

16 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

1<br />

Balvenie 15 Year<br />

Old Single Barrel<br />

(Scotch Single<br />

Malt – Speyside)<br />

“When you taste<br />

this whisky for<br />

the first time,<br />

you marvel<br />

at the rich,<br />

honeyed-malt<br />

flavours and<br />

mouth watering<br />

feel. It’s bottled<br />

at cask strength,<br />

so steady<br />

yourself.<br />

This is the whisky that started<br />

<strong>it</strong> all for me”, says Duganzich.<br />

“It was the first bottle of malt<br />

whisky that I purchased in 1994<br />

when I decided <strong>to</strong> learn more<br />

about whisky appreciation.”


2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

Glenfi ddich 15 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside)<br />

“This is a big whisky that is mouth-filling, succulent and spicy-sweet, you<br />

can’t go wrong w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>. If I was only allowed <strong>to</strong> drink one whisky for the<br />

rest of my life, this would be <strong>it</strong>. I drink Fiddich 15 year old religiously. It<br />

also pairs well w<strong>it</strong>h a variety of tasty meals as well as most robust s<strong>to</strong>gies.<br />

I predict that one day this will be the biggest selling Scotch Malt Whisky<br />

in the world.”<br />

Ardberg 1975 25 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Islay)<br />

“It <strong>to</strong>ok me about four years <strong>to</strong> acquire the taste for Islay Malts. When I<br />

began enjoying them I dabbled w<strong>it</strong>h qu<strong>it</strong>e a <strong>few</strong>. I have found that Ardberg<br />

is simply the most balanced Islay Malt there is. When you have a dose of<br />

1975 25 year old you know memories are made of this.”<br />

NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

Macallan 18 Year Old Gran Reserva (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside)<br />

“It’s big, juicy, fru<strong>it</strong>y and then a drying sherry note sensation grips your<br />

<strong>to</strong>ngue like a bear hug. Select Sherry butts are the secret <strong>to</strong> maturing this<br />

stunner of a malt. It’s a p<strong>it</strong>y we don’t get this in South Africa anymore, <strong>it</strong>’s<br />

a sensational whisky.”<br />

Highland Park 18 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Orkney Island)<br />

“Rich, layers of heathery-honey, peat smoke and malt. It’s a great after<br />

dinner whisky w<strong>it</strong>h some good friends.”<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

17


6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

George T Stagg 16 Year Old (Single Barrel Bourbon – Kentucky)<br />

“Never add a thing <strong>to</strong> this please. It’s qu<strong>it</strong>e possibly the ‘Dragons’ Bollocks’.<br />

The burn will fade and waves of flavour will abound. I imagine this must<br />

be similar <strong>to</strong> the thrill of surfing through a tube.”<br />

NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

Mortlach 22 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside – Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength Bottling)<br />

“Easily one of the better whiskies I have had the pleasure of sipping, sharing<br />

and eventually polishing off. It’s a ‘once off’ which defeats the purposes<br />

of this list I guess, unless you know how <strong>to</strong> get some from somewhere. I<br />

love Mortlach, <strong>it</strong> is the ‘Beast of Speyside Malt Whisky’, rich, flavourful,<br />

sumptuous, but extraordinary if you can get a bottle.”<br />

NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

Inchgower 27 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside) – Cadenhead Cask Strength bottling.<br />

“Sweet and dry, mouth coating, the sherry cask maturation gives this malt<br />

oomph. Imagine an early winters’ morning, fire roaring, snuggled in bed,<br />

a box of Godiva truffles - the perfect setting <strong>to</strong> pour yourself a dram of this.<br />

You will experience one of life’s perfect moments.”<br />

NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

Springbank 35 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Campbel<strong>to</strong>wn – Lim<strong>it</strong>ed Release<br />

“A whisky men<strong>to</strong>r, BJ Lankwarden, introduced me <strong>to</strong> this one. Springbank<br />

<strong>make</strong>s delicious whisky, but the 35 year old is truly something very very special.<br />

One of the most complex and layered whiskies I have ever had the pleasure <strong>to</strong><br />

enjoy. I’m not sure what is happening w<strong>it</strong>h the distribution in South Africa, <strong>it</strong>’s<br />

not that easy <strong>to</strong> come by. Where can I get some more please?”<br />

NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

18 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


10 Glenfi ddich<br />

40 Year Old<br />

(Scotch Single Malt –<br />

Speyside – First Vatting /<br />

Release)<br />

“When pressed<br />

<strong>to</strong> say which<br />

is the best<br />

whisky I have<br />

ever tasted,<br />

this keeps<br />

coming up as<br />

my personal<br />

favour<strong>it</strong>e. Not<br />

that there is<br />

anything wrong<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h the other<br />

releases, but the first vatting is<br />

probably the most memorable<br />

for me. A perfect balance<br />

between fru<strong>it</strong>, sweet notes, rich<br />

barley, drying oakiness, <strong>it</strong> is<br />

abundant and mouth watering<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h a warming finish that<br />

leaves you longing for more, and<br />

completely in love w<strong>it</strong>h whisky.”<br />

Th is year, the festival will off er<br />

something for everybody over<br />

the age of 18, including many<br />

returning favour<strong>it</strong>es such as fun<br />

and interactive whisky workshops,<br />

the new-look Volvo Whisky<br />

Lifestyle Lounge, and the hugely<br />

popular Volvo Connoisseur’s<br />

Experience, ‘Th e Ultimate Guided<br />

Tour’. Vis<strong>it</strong>ors will also be able<br />

<strong>to</strong> learn how <strong>to</strong> <strong>make</strong> whisky<br />

cocktails, blend their own whisky,<br />

pair the sublime fl avours of whisky<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h delectable canapés, as well as<br />

gain a better understanding of how<br />

wood aff ects the colour, fl avour<br />

and fragrances of whisky, and the<br />

signifi cance of copper stills in the<br />

whisky distillation process plus<br />

much more.<br />

Vis<strong>it</strong><br />

www.whiskylivefestival.co.za<br />

for more information.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

19


How <strong>to</strong> Taste Whisky<br />

Whisky, like wine and beer, is an acquired taste.<br />

Knowing how <strong>to</strong> taste whisky is imperative <strong>to</strong><br />

your enjoyment of <strong>it</strong>.<br />

Things you’ll need:<br />

• Good whisky<br />

• Snifter or rocks glass<br />

Choice of Glass<br />

Pour about an ounce of whisky in<strong>to</strong> a snifter<br />

or a small rocks glass. The snifter is better for<br />

tasting because the tapered shape of the glass<br />

concentrates the bouquet inside the glass.<br />

Appreciate the colour<br />

The pale <strong>to</strong> dark colour gold of whisky<br />

shimmers and glints inv<strong>it</strong>ingly, but the colour<br />

isn’t a reliable indica<strong>to</strong>r of age or flavour – this<br />

is purely aesthetic. A light whisky can still be<br />

powerful. The colour is drawn from the type of<br />

wood used for maturation.<br />

Nose the Whisky<br />

Pick up the glass and tilt <strong>it</strong> enough for the<br />

whisky <strong>to</strong> reach <strong>to</strong>ward the rim. Slowly turn<br />

the glass <strong>to</strong> coat the inside w<strong>it</strong>h a sheet of<br />

whisky. Standing the glass up, you will see the<br />

whisky running down the sides, pooling at the<br />

bot<strong>to</strong>m.<br />

As the whisky continues <strong>to</strong> pool, cover the<br />

opening of the glass w<strong>it</strong>h your palm for five<br />

seconds. Then lift the glass <strong>to</strong> your face. As you<br />

remove your hand from the <strong>to</strong>p of the snifter,<br />

put your nose in<strong>to</strong> the glass and smell deeply.<br />

Think about all the scents that you are<br />

20 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

picking up. Look for mint, dark chocolate,<br />

caramel, and vanilla. Molasses, cinnamon,<br />

nutmeg, and clove spice. Toasted wood, earth<br />

and cedar. The 32 primary smells that the nose<br />

can pick up helps you identify the elements<br />

and the style of whisky.<br />

These scents are there because whisky is<br />

a beautifully organic product made from the<br />

riches of the earth.<br />

Add a drop of water<br />

Water triggers a chemical reaction that opens<br />

up the dense whisky flavours as well as diluting<br />

the alcohol for less “burn”. Now nose again, as<br />

the bouquet will have changed somewhat.<br />

Taste<br />

Taste just a sip of the whisky while breathing<br />

<strong>it</strong> in and let <strong>it</strong> linger on your <strong>to</strong>ngue. Allow <strong>it</strong> <strong>to</strong><br />

coat your mouth like fresh mint. The flavours<br />

will last for moments <strong>to</strong> come. The <strong>to</strong>ngue tastes<br />

the primary flavours, informed by the scents<br />

that the nose identifies. Fru<strong>it</strong>iness, spiciness,<br />

dryness and sweetness are established.<br />

The <strong>to</strong>ngue also identifies the mouth feel or<br />

viscos<strong>it</strong>y, from light and delicate <strong>to</strong> full and<br />

heavy. This is the texture and smoothness of<br />

the whisky, which is an essential part of <strong>it</strong>s<br />

character.<br />

Look, sniff, taste and enjoy.


Donald Colville<br />

Global Scotch Brand Ambassador - Diageo.<br />

{ }<br />

Donald was born and brought<br />

up in Scotland’s his<strong>to</strong>ric whisky<br />

cap<strong>it</strong>al, Campbel<strong>to</strong>wn on the west<br />

coast of Scotland. Th ere the Colville<br />

family enjoyed deep roots in whisky<br />

distilling, mainly through the building<br />

and operating of Dalin<strong>to</strong>ber distillery,<br />

a supplier <strong>to</strong> the Johnnie Walker<br />

blends and once owned by Donald’s<br />

great-grandfather.<br />

Indeed, all Donald’s working life has been spent in the<br />

drinks industry in Scotland, helping him <strong>to</strong> acquire<br />

a wide knowledge of the spir<strong>it</strong>s category, both in<br />

Scotland and overseas. His first appointments were<br />

in management pos<strong>it</strong>ions in Greenock and Glasgow<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h the leading pub chain J. D. Wetherspoon, where<br />

he helped develop the malt category. In 2002 he<br />

returned <strong>to</strong> Campbel<strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> work for four years<br />

in Springbank for J & A M<strong>it</strong>chell where he in<strong>it</strong>ially<br />

managed inbound vis<strong>it</strong>s, tastings, public <strong>to</strong>urs and<br />

the retail and wholesale business for the local area<br />

before taking on some travel responsibil<strong>it</strong>ies for this<br />

celebrated distillery.<br />

A first exposure <strong>to</strong> the role of a Global Brand<br />

Ambassador came when Donald joined Burn Stewart<br />

Distillers, where continental Europe, the USA and<br />

South Africa were some of the terr<strong>it</strong>ories that Donald<br />

covered.<br />

Diageo recru<strong>it</strong>ed Donald in 2008 and after some<br />

experience in qual<strong>it</strong>y assessment, he was seconded <strong>to</strong> a<br />

sales function which made good use of his presentation<br />

22 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

abil<strong>it</strong>ies looking after <strong>to</strong>p on-trade<br />

accounts in Scotland, but this was all<br />

part of a bigger plan and he achieved<br />

his amb<strong>it</strong>ion when he was appointed<br />

as a Global Brand ambassador for<br />

Scotch Whisky in December 2010.<br />

Local whisky aficionados will<br />

be pleased <strong>to</strong> hear that Donald is<br />

flying out <strong>to</strong> South Africa for the<br />

Johannesburg leg of this year’s FNB<br />

Whisky Live Festival, taking place at<br />

the Sand<strong>to</strong>n Convention Centre from<br />

the 9th <strong>to</strong> the 11th November.


The Johnnie Walker stand at this<br />

year’s FNB Whisky Live Festival is<br />

wholly dedicated <strong>to</strong> the new bottle<br />

design for Johnnie Walker Blue<br />

Label, which is a commemoration<br />

of Alexander Walker’s remarkable<br />

Old Highland Whisky of 1867 and<br />

resembles the original 19th century<br />

bottle w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>s iconic square shape,<br />

<strong>blue</strong> glass and thick glass base.<br />

Festival attendees can meet<br />

Donald at the Johnnie Walker stand in<br />

person <strong>to</strong> learn about Johnnie Walker’s<br />

proud her<strong>it</strong>age of supreme blending,<br />

big flavours and timeless style that characterise this<br />

iconic brand.<br />

Donald will be conducting tastings w<strong>it</strong>h Johnnie<br />

Walker Red Label, the world’s number one selling<br />

blended scotch whisky and the pioneer blend of the<br />

Walker family; Johnnie Walker Black Label, the world’s<br />

number one selling deluxe blended scotch whisky; and<br />

of course, Johnnie Walker Blue Label, a whisky which is<br />

widely considered the modern standard for matur<strong>it</strong>y,<br />

smoothness and balance and is an epic achievement of<br />

rare craftsmanship and character.<br />

For more information about Donald and the Johnnie<br />

Walker stand at this year’s festival, please vis<strong>it</strong> https://<br />

www.facebook.com/JohnnieWalkerSouthAfrica<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

23


24 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


Johnnie Walker<br />

Double Black<br />

By: By Marsh Middle<strong>to</strong>n<br />

You should be familiar w<strong>it</strong>h Johnnie Walker Black<br />

Label - the world’s no.1 deluxe blended whisky. I am.<br />

What I love about Johnnie Walker Black Label is <strong>it</strong>s<br />

depth, richness and complex<strong>it</strong>y. Truly a benchmark<br />

whisky w<strong>it</strong>h the added bonus that there are some of<br />

those powerful west coast malts blended in harmony<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h the more subtle east coast flavours. The reason<br />

I mention this is because those powerful west coast<br />

malts are some of my favour<strong>it</strong>es out there. Now any<br />

whisky that endeavors <strong>to</strong> keep the style of Johnnie<br />

Walker Black Label and add more smokiness will<br />

quickly become my friend.<br />

Enter Johnnie Walker Double Black! It’s here! This<br />

whisky has graduated from duty-free and is one that<br />

you’ll want on your whisky shelf for various reasons.<br />

Over the last couple of years a peculiar flavour profile<br />

has been striking a cord w<strong>it</strong>h a growing number of<br />

whisky apprecia<strong>to</strong>rs. You may have tasted a whisky<br />

that you thought really smelt and tasted qu<strong>it</strong>e smoky.<br />

You were most probably right on the money! In the<br />

past there were not many people that liked this aroma<br />

and taste, but things are changing. If you are anything<br />

like me that smoky taste enchanted you and sent you<br />

on a journey of discovery.<br />

This peculiar smoky aroma and flavour comes from<br />

the kilning process when the maltings dry the barley<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h peat fires (peat is a type of compacted vegetation –<br />

almost coal-like but a lot less dense and w<strong>it</strong>h roots and<br />

vegetation that has decomposed over hundreds of years).<br />

When you <strong>make</strong> whisky from barley dried in this manner,<br />

you’ve got peaty whisky. And the west coast malts are of<br />

the more peaty/smoky types from Scotland.<br />

Johnnie Walker Double Black is a smokier, more<br />

intense version of Johnnie Walker Black Label. Those<br />

smoky malts used in this blend are<br />

the more powerful west coast malts<br />

as mentioned above. The distinctive<br />

rich Johnnie Walker flavours are still<br />

evident from similar malts chosen<br />

for the blend, aged in deep charred<br />

oak casks <strong>to</strong> create something qu<strong>it</strong>e<br />

unique.<br />

Part of trying <strong>to</strong> be a connoisseur<br />

is <strong>to</strong> appreciate a whisky for what <strong>it</strong><br />

is. Jim Beveridge, the master blender<br />

for Johnnie Walker, does have a knack<br />

of creating unique blends that still f<strong>it</strong><br />

w<strong>it</strong>hin the broader Johnnie Walker<br />

flavour profile. The perfect serve<br />

for Johnnie Walker Double Black<br />

demands a l<strong>it</strong>tle water <strong>to</strong> release the<br />

smoky flavours. Water in general<br />

opens up a whisky so that <strong>it</strong> is more<br />

approachable. I do still get the vanilla,<br />

butterscotch and rich, dried fru<strong>it</strong>s on<br />

the palate, and that pleasant intense<br />

rising smokiness. You’ll know this is<br />

a dram that you’re familiar w<strong>it</strong>h, just<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h a lot more intens<strong>it</strong>y. I also find<br />

this whisky <strong>to</strong> be a lot more vibrant,<br />

so well worth the purchase.<br />

It is not often that one gets the<br />

opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> grow your Johnnie<br />

Walker collection w<strong>it</strong>h something this<br />

distinctive. It’s a lim<strong>it</strong>ed release w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

only 7200 cases available, so snap <strong>it</strong><br />

up. Apart from the impressive black<br />

bottle I just like the fact that <strong>it</strong> stands<br />

out as something new. Change is as<br />

good as a holiday.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

25


Laphroaig<br />

Distillery<br />

{ }<br />

Established in 1815, Laphroaig is<br />

the world’s best selling Islay malt whisky<br />

and is known <strong>to</strong> be the most richly<br />

fl avoured of all Scotch whiskies. Th e<br />

distillery still owns <strong>it</strong>s own peat moors<br />

and produces <strong>it</strong>s own maltings. Its<br />

whisky maturation warehouses directly<br />

face the sea, which contributes <strong>to</strong> the<br />

very characterful whisky <strong>it</strong> produces.<br />

26 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

The Laphroaig distillery (the name<br />

means “the beautiful hollow by the<br />

broad bay”) was established in 1815,<br />

by Alex and Donald Johns<strong>to</strong>n. The<br />

‘Johns<strong>to</strong>n’ brothers were actually<br />

McCabes, of the Clan Donald, who<br />

changed their names following the<br />

failed Jacob<strong>it</strong>e uprising, and settled on<br />

the Isle of Islay.<br />

Their descendants ran the<br />

distillery until 1887, when <strong>it</strong> passed <strong>to</strong><br />

the Hunter family. They in turn ran the<br />

distillery until 1954, when Ian Hunter<br />

(who had no children) died and left the<br />

distilley <strong>to</strong> one of his managers, Bessie<br />

Williamson, who earlier came <strong>to</strong> Islay<br />

<strong>to</strong> stay for three months but remained<br />

on Islay for more than fourty years.<br />

The distillery was sold <strong>to</strong> Long<br />

John International in the 1960’s, and<br />

subsequently became part of Allied<br />

Domecq. Allied Domecq was in turn


acquired i d bby FFortune t BBrands d iin 2005<br />

2005.<br />

Since 1994 Laphroaig has been<br />

the only whisky <strong>to</strong> carry the Royal<br />

Warrant of HRH, Prince Charles of<br />

Wales, which was awarded in person<br />

during a vis<strong>it</strong> <strong>to</strong> the distillery. As of<br />

2005, the standard 10 year old bottling<br />

was reduced in percentage from 43%<br />

<strong>to</strong> the worldwide standard of 40%.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

27


28 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

The water dispute<br />

In 1836 James and Andrew Gairdner set about<br />

building a rival distillery next <strong>to</strong> Laphroaig.<br />

They installed two experienced Clackmann<br />

distillers, James and Andrew Stein, <strong>to</strong> take<br />

charge. Donald Johns<strong>to</strong>n, owner of Laphroaig<br />

at the time, was deeply disturbed finding out<br />

that the new, Ardenistiel distillery, proposed<br />

<strong>to</strong> use the same watersource. Water that made<br />

a v<strong>it</strong>al contribution <strong>to</strong> Laphroaig’s unique<br />

character. Specially when Donald was about<br />

<strong>to</strong> expand his business leaving him w<strong>it</strong>h a <strong>to</strong>o<br />

small water supply. The dispute lasted almost 6<br />

years and ended abruptly when Andrew Stein<br />

fell ill w<strong>it</strong>h fever and died soon afterwards.<br />

His brother James s<strong>to</strong>pped distilling and<br />

moved <strong>to</strong> Port Ellen. In June the following year<br />

Donald himself died in a tragic accident at the<br />

Laphroaig distillery.<br />

Taste Laphroaig is considered one of the


most strongly flavored of all scotch<br />

whiskies, and is generally aged <strong>to</strong> 10<br />

years, although the 15 year old variety<br />

is not uncommon (the 30 and 40 year<br />

olds, however, are). Some people find<br />

that a drop of water enhances the<br />

peaty aroma of this whisky.<br />

In an attempt <strong>to</strong> re-create the<br />

taste of his<strong>to</strong>ric whiskies, Laphroaig<br />

carried out experiments. Recently<br />

the Laphroaig Quarter Cask has been<br />

introduced. By using smaller casks and<br />

by avoiding chill-filtering, the Quarter<br />

Cask Single Malt is supposed <strong>to</strong> taste<br />

like whisky which was distilled 100<br />

years ago.<br />

Friends of Laphroaig<br />

In 1994 the Friends of Laphroaig<br />

Club was established, members of<br />

which are granted a lifetime lease of<br />

one square foot (


Our Whisky Experts on<br />

Johnnie Walker Blue<br />

JONATHAN J<br />

MILES<br />

30 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

Jonathan has worked in the liquor industry in South Africa for<br />

36 years. He set up the Whisky Academy, a whisky education and<br />

training facil<strong>it</strong>y, which has grown <strong>to</strong> be a leading light in the whisky<br />

industry in South Arica. Jonathan has a passion for whisky and he<br />

runs training courses (Whisky one; Whisky Two and an Introducion<br />

<strong>to</strong> Whisky) and provides tastings and education <strong>to</strong> the liquor trade<br />

and consumers.<br />

Jonathan on Johnnie Walker Blue: The name Johnnie Walker conjures up all sorts of images of<br />

qual<strong>it</strong>y, especially<br />

whisky qual<strong>it</strong>y and the international image of a brand striding the globe. The beauty of the<br />

brand is that you can find <strong>it</strong> in bars across the world and you will enjoy the excellent qual<strong>it</strong>y very<br />

consistently, dram after dram. My favour<strong>it</strong>e has always been the Johnnie Walker Black Label w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

<strong>it</strong>s unique smooth, deep and complex character.<br />

However, every now and then one deserves a treat and <strong>it</strong> is on these occasions that one<br />

reaches for Johnnie Walker Blue Label. It’s the bottle I keep on an exclusive stand in my whisky<br />

bar and the one that is only opened when I am feeling generous and looking for a rare experience<br />

for myself or my guests. It is the ep<strong>it</strong>ome of the art of blending and the Master Distiller, Jim<br />

Beveridge, has access <strong>to</strong> some of the world’s most valuable and precious s<strong>to</strong>cks as he creates the<br />

Blue blend. Using exceptional young and old whiskies, he weaves a complex blend of the best<br />

Scotland has <strong>to</strong> offer <strong>to</strong> ensure that luxuriously smooth flavour that we find in the glass.<br />

I start by serving a generous dram in a tasting glass – I love <strong>to</strong> capture the rich, deep and<br />

complex aromas – the powerful west coast elements are beautifully balanced by the sweetness<br />

and maltiness of the Speyside and other Highland malts.<br />

On the palate the layers of flavor open up and the complex<strong>it</strong>y of the blend unfolds revealing<br />

smoke, pepper and spice along w<strong>it</strong>h a smooth and satisfying finish. A <strong>to</strong>uch of water opens the<br />

whisky even more as new aromas and flavours are released for your enjoyment. Expect also ripe<br />

fig, malt and light smoke mingling w<strong>it</strong>h the soft grain and again the gentle spicy finish.<br />

This is a dram <strong>to</strong> be savoured, not rushed. Take your time <strong>to</strong> identify the different flavours<br />

you pick up and let them tantalise your taste buds. It is a rare experience <strong>to</strong> be treasured as <strong>it</strong><br />

doesn’t come around <strong>to</strong>o often. If your host is in a really generous mood he may offer another<br />

dram – I usually accept graciously.


November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

31


Our Whisky Experts on<br />

Johnnie Walker Blue<br />

MARSH M MIDDLETON<br />

32 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

Marsh is an avid whisky enthusiast. His quest for whisky<br />

knowledge commenced w<strong>it</strong>h a trip <strong>to</strong> the Isle of Islay off the<br />

West Coast of Scotland. He has interviewed many legends of<br />

the whisky industry, including Bill Lumsden , Dave Broom and<br />

Richard Paterson. He also hosts the annual Lexus Connoisseurs<br />

Experience at the FNB Whisky Live Festival.<br />

Marsh on Johnnie Walker Blue: “Johnnie Walker r Blue<br />

Label is the flagship in the House of Walker. W<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>s new and seriously iously<br />

impressive packaging <strong>it</strong> will most defin<strong>it</strong>ely draw your attention. This<br />

whisky means business. From the early 1990’s Johnnie Walker Blue Label<br />

has showcased what those late 19th century whisky blends were all<br />

about. Rich sweetness, somewhat peaty aromas w<strong>it</strong>h smooth, malty y<br />

flavours!<br />

There is what the ‘experts’ call a perfect serve for this whisky. It<br />

really is a multi-layered dram. Firstly you have <strong>to</strong> slow down. This<br />

approach needs <strong>to</strong> be one that savours and appreciates the nuances. .<br />

Clean your palate w<strong>it</strong>h some ice cold water. Then wa<strong>it</strong>… Take a<br />

generous sip <strong>to</strong> coat the mouth, keep <strong>it</strong> there for a while, and as the e<br />

liquid gently warms up on your palate you’ll know what I mean. Don’t t<br />

forget <strong>to</strong> swallow.<br />

You will notice the depth and layers of flavour this blend has <strong>to</strong> o<br />

offer. As the tasting notes indicate - there’s a rich and uniquely long g<br />

and satisfying finish of smoke, pepper, ending w<strong>it</strong>h a glorious <strong>to</strong>uch h<br />

of spice.<br />

Being part of the House of Walker and <strong>it</strong>s parent company, Johnnie e<br />

Walker Blue Label’s master blender – Jim Beveridge – probably has the e<br />

largest reserves of whisky in the world <strong>to</strong> choose from. This can only y<br />

add depth <strong>to</strong> a whisky. It is the blender’s art <strong>to</strong> create a whisky of this s<br />

caliber. It is one of the greatest whisky gifts one can give, and you can n<br />

count on <strong>it</strong> that <strong>it</strong> will last qu<strong>it</strong>e some time if savoured – thus keeping g<br />

you <strong>to</strong>p of mind. “


DAVE HUGHES<br />

Dave is a distiller by trade, wine<strong>make</strong>r, wine auctioneer,<br />

international wine and spir<strong>it</strong> judge, <strong>to</strong> mention but a <strong>few</strong> of Dave’s<br />

achievements. Dave has travelled the world <strong>to</strong> study wine and<br />

liquor production and judged in most of the world’s worthwhile<br />

wine and spir<strong>it</strong>s compet<strong>it</strong>ions – he has judged at IWSC since 1975<br />

and is still going strong.<br />

Dave on Johnnie Walker Blue:” Enticing nose w<strong>it</strong>h clever peating and<br />

decided smoke but obviously from well matured and old malt. Slow <strong>to</strong> start but eventually<br />

evolves <strong>to</strong> produce an incredible depth of character. Gorgeous fru<strong>it</strong> underlines the smoky<br />

peat and leads in<strong>to</strong> a deep, full but gently powerful mouth. Big, full volume mouth loaded<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h ripe figs and super rich grain. Some sparkling spice teases the tail.<br />

A great whisky experience where a blend can have the complex<strong>it</strong>y that many magnificent<br />

malts can’t achieve.<br />

Well worth the expense especially for the Single Malt Snobs !”<br />

STEVE ADAMS<br />

Careful selection of the most exceptional aged whiskies, some<br />

mature enough <strong>to</strong> have w<strong>it</strong>nessed mankind’s most memorable walk,<br />

have been brought <strong>to</strong>gether by Johnnie Walker’s master blender <strong>to</strong><br />

create a perfectly balanced yet complex, silky smooth Scotch whisky,<br />

<strong>to</strong> be relished by the most discerning palates. An intense golden hue,<br />

subtly spicy and delicate fru<strong>it</strong>y aromas lead <strong>to</strong> a remarkably velvety<br />

palate - rich yet mellow, full flavoured yet soft - followed by a warm,<br />

lingering finish.<br />

<strong>Very</strong> <strong>few</strong> of us will ever get <strong>to</strong> walk on the moon; some may be fortunate enough <strong>to</strong><br />

savour one of Scotland’s best accomplishments: Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Walk the<br />

Walk.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

33


17/2011 <strong>Makro</strong> DTP/CK 148 x 210 Valid from: 17/10/2011 - 31/12/2011<br />

Prices valid from Monday 17 Oc<strong>to</strong>ber <strong>to</strong> Saturday 31 December 2011. After this date please request pricing in-s<strong>to</strong>re.<br />

JAMES KING<br />

3 YO Blended<br />

Scotch Whisky<br />

(136688)<br />

JAMES KING<br />

Speyside Single<br />

Malt 12 YO<br />

Scotch Whisky<br />

in Gift Box<br />

(217210)<br />

International<br />

Spir<strong>it</strong>s<br />

Challenge<br />

2011<br />

64951 x<br />

750ml<br />

(136688)<br />

199951 x<br />

750ml<br />

(217210)<br />

Exclusive<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>Makro</strong><br />

Available<br />

early<br />

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2011<br />

JAMES KING<br />

5 YO Blended<br />

Scotch Whisky<br />

(201543)<br />

PREMIUM WHISKIES<br />

International<br />

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in Gift Tube<br />

(217213)<br />

399951 x<br />

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(217213)<br />

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8 YO Blended<br />

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(201544)<br />

89951 x<br />

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(201544)<br />

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2011<br />

Liquor not for sale <strong>to</strong> persons under the age of 18. <strong>Makro</strong> supports responsible drinking.<br />

Unless we state a specific lim<strong>it</strong>ation, <strong>Makro</strong> will attempt <strong>to</strong> have sufficient advertised s<strong>to</strong>ck available <strong>to</strong> meet consumers’ anticipated demands. If we still run out of s<strong>to</strong>ck, we will attempt <strong>to</strong> obtain the s<strong>to</strong>ck or we will offer you a<br />

reasonable alternative. <strong>Makro</strong> takes utmost care <strong>to</strong> ensure that all advertisements are correct. If a mistake occurs or incomplete information is printed, we will display a notice in-s<strong>to</strong>re w<strong>it</strong>h all the correct details.<br />

Germis<strong>to</strong>n 0860 304 999 • Crown Mines 011 309 1000 • Woodmead 0860 301 999 • Strubens Valley 0860 302 999<br />

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Whisky in Gift Box<br />

(119860)<br />

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30 YO Single Malt<br />

Scotch Whisky in Tube<br />

(16021) 269995 BALVENIE<br />

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Malt Whisky in Tube<br />

(2100280) 2699 (16021)<br />

95<br />

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25 YO Single Speyside Malt<br />

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(159025) 2899 (2100280)<br />

95<br />

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1 x<br />

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Liquor not for sale <strong>to</strong> persons under the age of 18. <strong>Makro</strong> supports responsible drinking.<br />

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<strong>Makro</strong><br />

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Grain whisky has<br />

By: Dave Hughes<br />

All whisky is made from grain of some kind or another<br />

but <strong>it</strong> seems that in modern times the malted versions,<br />

made from barley, have become very fashionable. Yet<br />

malt whisky <strong>make</strong>s up less than 15% of all whiskies<br />

made. The rest are, fundamentally, grain whiskies.<br />

Made from all manner of grain. Barley, wheat, rye,<br />

maize (corn), rice, sorghum and others. Some whiskies<br />

made from grains have gained their own ident<strong>it</strong>ies like<br />

Bourbon and Tennessee which are both made from<br />

predominantly maize but can include other grains.<br />

Rye whisky is obviously made from rye although in the<br />

USA <strong>it</strong> need only be 51 % rye <strong>to</strong> qualify <strong>to</strong> be called Rye<br />

whisky. Many whiskies containing spir<strong>it</strong>s made from<br />

wheat or maize seldom mention the type of grain and<br />

simply say “grain”.<br />

The great Scotch blended whiskies that are the<br />

36 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

whiskies that most people p p seem <strong>to</strong><br />

know even if they ey are not drinkers<br />

because of the great advertising<br />

promotions and ads contained in the<br />

glossy magazines s and and daily press. press. press In<br />

In<br />

South Africa the likes llikes<br />

of J & B, Bells,<br />

Johnnie Walker, Grants and Famous<br />

Grouse are blends s of malt whisky whisky w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

a greater proportion tiion<br />

of grain whisky.<br />

Malt whiskies s are made in a<br />

batch process and nnd<br />

distilled<br />

in “pot stills”. The e malting<br />

process w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>’s s drying<br />

done by peat will iill<br />

give<br />

the resultant malt<br />

much greater flavour


<strong>it</strong>s own attraction<br />

which is passed on<strong>to</strong> the whisky than<br />

lesser character grains used in the<br />

production of continuously distilled<br />

grain whiskies.<br />

Continuous stills and sometimes<br />

called “patent” stills or Coffey stills.<br />

Coffey and Stein were the men who<br />

developed the process of continuous<br />

distillation in Scotland. Often<br />

continuous stills can be referred <strong>to</strong> by<br />

their “brand” name.<br />

The wash distilled from a mixture<br />

of malted barley and other unmalted<br />

cereals. The malted portion contains<br />

enzymes that will convert the starch<br />

in the grain <strong>to</strong> fermentable sugar. The<br />

milled grain is made in<strong>to</strong> a sugary<br />

liquid, called wort where the enzymes<br />

contained in the small malted portion<br />

then convert all the starch in<strong>to</strong> sugar<br />

which can be fermented <strong>to</strong> give an<br />

alcoholic liquid called wort. This<br />

then is fed in<strong>to</strong> the continuous stills.<br />

The resultant spir<strong>it</strong> p is not as full of<br />

flavour flavour as the spir<strong>it</strong> made form barley<br />

that has all undergone underg malting then<br />

drying w<strong>it</strong>h the use us of peat smoke.<br />

However, However grain whiskies<br />

have<br />

their own sought<br />

after<br />

character and can<br />

often be very elegant<br />

and delightful. As<br />

mentioned, men outside<br />

of Scotland, most<br />

whiskies whisk are grain<br />

whisk whiskies.<br />

Wi W<strong>it</strong>hin Scotland<br />

not all<br />

grain whisky is<br />

destined<br />

for blending.<br />

There are a number of grain whiskies that are bottled<br />

under their own character and proudly designated as<br />

grain whisky. Some are aged for a considerable time<br />

and are sought after in their own right.<br />

In Scotland there are about 100 malt distilleries<br />

while there are only seven grain distilleries. The malt<br />

distilleries are all pot still and produce relatively small<br />

quant<strong>it</strong>ies of highly individual whiskies.<br />

The big grain distilleries produce mega volumes of<br />

grain distillate which is of lesser character but all the<br />

same has the distinct character of <strong>it</strong>’s own distillery.<br />

These distillates still have <strong>to</strong> age a minimum of three<br />

years before they can be legally termed whisky. Most<br />

are aged in used Bourbon barrels which give the<br />

vanilla characters and perhaps a slight sweetness<br />

while some sherry barrels are used <strong>to</strong> extend the range<br />

of characters in<strong>to</strong> a dried fru<strong>it</strong> richness. Typically these<br />

barrels are “used” about three <strong>to</strong> four times . Each use<br />

is referred <strong>to</strong> as “fill”. Each fill will obviously have a<br />

less and less effect on the spir<strong>it</strong> resulting in milder and<br />

milder whiskies.<br />

It so happens that most of these distilleries are<br />

located in the Lowlands. When I was a lad there were<br />

a couple more but half a dozen have been closed in the<br />

past 20 or so years. Perhaps one of the most famous<br />

Port Dundas was closed only in 2010.<br />

The most recently commissioned grain distillery is<br />

Starlaw opened in 2010 and owned by La Martiniquaise.<br />

The biggest liquor company, Diageo owns Lomond<br />

and Cameron Bridge and have a joint venture w<strong>it</strong>h the<br />

Edring<strong>to</strong>n Group in North Br<strong>it</strong>ish. Whyte and Mackay<br />

own Invergordon and Chivas (Pernod Ricard) own<br />

Strathclyde. William Grant own Girvan<br />

As mentioned, most Scottish grain whisky will<br />

go in<strong>to</strong> the famous blends making an invaluable<br />

contribution <strong>to</strong> the blend.<br />

Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally maize was the preferred grain as not only<br />

was <strong>it</strong> the most inexpensive grain, <strong>it</strong> offered the highest<br />

level of starch which meant a higher yield of alcohol.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

37


Nowadays there has been a great change over <strong>to</strong> wheat<br />

because of the European Union subsidies which made<br />

wheat available at a lower price. There are many types or<br />

strains of wheat w<strong>it</strong>h bakers and pasta <strong>make</strong>rs preferring<br />

hard grains. Distillers prefer slightly softer grain as <strong>it</strong><br />

contains more starch so giving a better alcoholic yield.<br />

Annual grain crops are effected by the weather resulting<br />

in variable starch levels which obviously will mean fine<br />

tuning <strong>to</strong> the overall production. Maize tends <strong>to</strong> be more<br />

uniform year by year and less affected by weather than<br />

wheat and so some distillers still prefer maize. However,<br />

<strong>it</strong> is considered that whatever the source of the grain <strong>it</strong><br />

has l<strong>it</strong>tle impact on the overall result. What has a greater<br />

impact is how the distillation is carried out. The distiller<br />

can determine whether <strong>to</strong> produce a spir<strong>it</strong> that is richer<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h greater character or lighter which is more mild.<br />

Then of course the aging in oak has a great influence on<br />

the end product.<br />

In the continuous distillation process the end spir<strong>it</strong><br />

is collected at about 94 % alcohol w<strong>it</strong>h the Br<strong>it</strong>ish law<br />

stating <strong>it</strong> must be collected at below 94,8 %. Whereas<br />

38 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

from a pot still the spir<strong>it</strong> is around<br />

about 70 % w<strong>it</strong>h the lower strength<br />

collecting a far broader aromatic and<br />

flavour profile.<br />

Continuous distilleries have lent<br />

themselves <strong>to</strong> be highly aided by<br />

computerization although the ever<br />

fa<strong>it</strong>hful stillman is still required (no<br />

pun intended).<br />

There might not be many grain<br />

distilleries but each produces <strong>it</strong>’s own<br />

identifiable character..<br />

When <strong>it</strong> comes <strong>to</strong> Scotch Grain<br />

Whiskies look out for bottlings from<br />

the great distilleries under the private<br />

bottlings of Duncan Taylor and the<br />

specific combinations of Compass Box<br />

under the name Hedonism. A couple<br />

of distilleries bottle “Single Grains”<br />

such as Cameron Bridge who use the<br />

name “Cameron Brig”.


A Whisky for Today<br />

www.smokehead.co.uk<br />

Smokehead encourages responsible drinking<br />

Enjoy responsibly, not for sale <strong>to</strong> persons under the age of 18


Old-school spir<strong>it</strong>s<br />

{ }<br />

From computerized stills and bar-coded casks <strong>to</strong> mechanized bottling<br />

lines, many spir<strong>it</strong>s brands have embraced cutting-edge technology.<br />

But there are a <strong>few</strong> holdouts around the world that continue <strong>to</strong><br />

use old-fashioned techniques. Here are some of our favour<strong>it</strong>es.<br />

By: Jacques Cortez: Contribu<strong>to</strong>r <strong>to</strong> Liquor.com<br />

FLOOR-MALTING:<br />

FLOOR MALTING<br />

The first step in producing Scotch is <strong>to</strong> convert the barley’s starch content in<strong>to</strong> more desirable sugar<br />

by malting <strong>it</strong>. To save time, most distillers buy already-malted barley, but a handful of brands—The<br />

Balvenie, Bowmore, Highland Park and Laphroaig—still carry on the trad<strong>it</strong>ional floor-malting process<br />

(pictured above). While <strong>it</strong>’s back-breaking work, <strong>it</strong> preserves a piece of whisky his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

40 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


Fast facts<br />

THE BALVENIE<br />

• The Balvenie is the only distillery in the<br />

ScottishHighlands <strong>to</strong> still floor malt <strong>it</strong>s barley.<br />

• Master Distiller David Stewart has been making<br />

whisky at William Grant for 47 years.<br />

• If you’re vis<strong>it</strong>ing The Balvenie also s<strong>to</strong>p by <strong>it</strong>s sister<br />

brand Glenfiddich. The two distilleries are right<br />

next <strong>to</strong> each other.<br />

HIGHLAND PARK<br />

BOWMORE<br />

• While the distillery has a long his<strong>to</strong>ry, the origins of the name Bowmore<br />

are unknown.<br />

• In 1991, one of the brand’s warehouses was turned in<strong>to</strong> a commun<strong>it</strong>y<br />

swimming pool, which is heated w<strong>it</strong>h the distillery’s recycled hot water.<br />

•<br />

A rare bottle of 1850 Bowmore became the most expensive Scotch in the<br />

world when <strong>it</strong> sold at auction for £29,400 pounds in September 2007.<br />

• Highland Park’s distillery is located in the northern<br />

tip of Scotland. The weather is consistently cool and<br />

breezy all year round.<br />

• The brand’s webs<strong>it</strong>e features a food-pairing section<br />

and includes six recipes from Master Chef Sue<br />

Lawrence.<br />

LAPHROAIG<br />

•<br />

The Laphroaig distillery was originally<br />

started as a way <strong>to</strong> use excess barley<br />

grown for cattle. Distilling whisky quickly<br />

became more prof<strong>it</strong>able than farming.<br />

•<br />

Prince Charles celebrated his 60th birthday<br />

at the Laphroaig distillery in 2008.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

41


17/2011 <strong>Makro</strong> DTP/CK 148 x 210 Valid from: 17/10/2011 - 31/12/2011<br />

Prices valid from Monday 17 Oc<strong>to</strong>ber<br />

<strong>to</strong> Saturday 31 December 2011.<br />

After this date please request pricing in-s<strong>to</strong>re.<br />

Buried in Antarctic ice by Shackle<strong>to</strong>n.<br />

Rediscovered by us. Savoured by you.<br />

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Unless we state a specific lim<strong>it</strong>ation, <strong>Makro</strong> will attempt <strong>to</strong> have sufficient advertised s<strong>to</strong>ck available <strong>to</strong> meet consumers’ anticipated demands. If we still run out of s<strong>to</strong>ck, we will attempt <strong>to</strong> obtain the s<strong>to</strong>ck or we will offer you a reasonable<br />

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Which foods pair<br />

best w<strong>it</strong>h whisky?<br />

By: Fiona Beckett<br />

{ }<br />

Here are some suggestions, divided up by whisky style, w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

some add<strong>it</strong>ional input from whisky expert Dave Broom.<br />

Needless <strong>to</strong> say the better and, generally, older the<br />

whisky the more intriguing and complex the pairing.<br />

Light fragrant whiskies w<strong>it</strong>h a <strong>to</strong>uch of sweetness -<br />

e.g. Dalwhinnie, Glenkinchie<br />

• Sushi<br />

• Smoked salmon (especially wild salmon and other delicate smokes)<br />

• Dressed crab Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup<br />

• Cock-a-leekie (clear chicken and leek soup)<br />

• Parsnip soup<br />

• Kedgeree Bread and butter pudding<br />

• Cranachan (whipped cream and whisky w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>to</strong>asted oatmeal and<br />

raspberries)<br />

Goats cheeses and cream cheeses<br />

Medium bodied whiskies w<strong>it</strong>h some peat infl uence e.g. Bruichladdich<br />

• Smoked mackerel<br />

• Smoked mussels<br />

• Smoked oysters Smoked duck<br />

• Smoked venison<br />

• Duck or chicken liver paté<br />

• Seared scallops and bacon<br />

• Roast or braised pheasant<br />

• Pheasant or guinea fowl w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />

creamy wild mushroom sauce<br />

44 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


Full-bodied rich whiskies aged in sherry casks or European oak<br />

- e.g Th e Macallan<br />

• Seared or grilled steak<br />

• Char siu pork<br />

• Roast venison especially w<strong>it</strong>h caramelised/<br />

roast root vegetables<br />

• Rich fru<strong>it</strong> cakes e.g. Christmas cake<br />

• Christmas pudding<br />

• Mince pies<br />

• Pecan pie<br />

• Sticky <strong>to</strong>ffee pudding<br />

• Gingerbread<br />

• Dark chocolate and ginger biscu<strong>it</strong>s<br />

• Dark chocolate brownies<br />

• Mature cheddar<br />

• Washed-rind cheeses<br />

Strong, peaty whiskies e.g. Lagavulin, Talisker<br />

I’m cautious about these because of their<br />

powerful flavours but Dave urges you <strong>to</strong><br />

be bold! He advocates scallops and bacon<br />

and dark chocolate (not on the same<br />

plate, obviously) w<strong>it</strong>h a peaty whisky for<br />

example Anchovy-based spreads or dips.<br />

• Hot-smoked salmon<br />

• Smoked chicken<br />

• Mature farmhouse cheddar<br />

• Strong <strong>blue</strong> cheeses, especially Roquefort<br />

Bear in mind that some whiskies, especially<br />

cask-strength ones, may need a splash of<br />

water <strong>to</strong> work w<strong>it</strong>h food .<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

45


Whisky’s Perfect Match<br />

Here is what one of the Worl’d Leading author<strong>it</strong>ies<br />

has <strong>to</strong> say about Whisky & Food Pairing<br />

Forget ice or soda; have you tried pairing Scotch w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

food? It can work surprisingly well, and so-called<br />

“whisky dinners” are becoming increasingly popular<br />

in Europe and Asia. Just this year alone, I’ve led<br />

dozens of them in twenty countries. I particularly<br />

enjoy matching single malts w<strong>it</strong>h appetizers, small<br />

plates like tapas or meze, and desserts. This can<br />

showcase unexpected characteristics in a spir<strong>it</strong><br />

and invariably leads <strong>to</strong> a lively discussion. (As for<br />

entrees, they’re often <strong>to</strong>o complex, and, frankly, I<br />

think wine is better su<strong>it</strong>ed as a companion <strong>to</strong> many<br />

Charles MacLean, Master of the Quaich and James Beard Award winner, is the author of<br />

ten books on Scotch, including the Whiskypedia.<br />

46 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

By: Charles Maclean<br />

dishes.) The general idea is that the<br />

cuisine and the whisky should e<strong>it</strong>her<br />

complement or contrast w<strong>it</strong>h each<br />

other. Since every Scotch bottling<br />

has <strong>it</strong>s own unique flavor profile, I<br />

suggest keeping the food relatively<br />

simple and based on qual<strong>it</strong>y<br />

ingredients, which will allow the<br />

liquor <strong>to</strong> really shine through. Here<br />

are some of my favor<strong>it</strong>e pairings.<br />

Bon appet<strong>it</strong>!


RAW OYSTERS<br />

“ANOINTED” WITH A<br />

SPLASH OF TALISKER<br />

10-YEAR-OLD:<br />

Th Thee light smokiness and<br />

mar<strong>it</strong>ime character of the whisky<br />

complements the mollusk, and <strong>it</strong><br />

fi nishes w<strong>it</strong>h a peppery kick.<br />

SHRIMP WITH A GLASS<br />

OF OLD PULTENEY<br />

12-YEAR-OLD:<br />

Th Thesweet e sweet saltiness of “Th “The e<br />

Manzanilla of the North”<br />

enhances the sweetness of<br />

the shellfi sh.<br />

SMOKED SALMON WITH<br />

A DRAM OF ARDBERG<br />

10 YEARS OLD:<br />

Some think the smokiness of the<br />

whisky is <strong>to</strong>o dominant, but I<br />

say <strong>it</strong> works well w<strong>it</strong>h Scotland’s<br />

other famous delicacy.<br />

CCUSTARD<br />

TART AND<br />

A<br />

SHOT OF FROZEN<br />

DDALWHINNIE<br />

15-YEAR-<br />

OOLD:<br />

Th e light vanilla and honey notes<br />

in the whisky, <strong>to</strong>gether w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>s<br />

smooth sm texture, complement the<br />

dessert. de<br />

RRICH<br />

FRUITCAKE<br />

WWITH<br />

GLENFARCLAS<br />

115-YEAR-OLD<br />

(OR ANY<br />

OOTHER<br />

SHERRY-WOOD-<br />

MMATURED<br />

MALT):<br />

Th e dried fru<strong>it</strong>s and mouth-drying<br />

tannins ta are balanced by the<br />

unctuous un sweetness of the cake.<br />

RROQUEFORT<br />

CHEESE<br />

WWITH<br />

LAGAVULIN<br />

116-YEAR-OLD:<br />

Massive M fl avors, which cancel each<br />

other ot out—truly a marriage made<br />

in Heaven.<br />

DDARK<br />

CHOCOLATE,<br />

SSTRONG<br />

BLACK COFFEE<br />

AAND<br />

A GOOD CIGAR<br />

WWITH<br />

THE DALMORE<br />

GGRAN<br />

RESERVA:<br />

Nibble, N sip coff ee, sip whisky, puff<br />

cigar. ci Repeat. Bliss!<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

47


Brie & pear soup<br />

{ }<br />

According <strong>to</strong> Ralph Waldo<br />

Emerson, “there are only ten<br />

minutes in the life of a pear<br />

when <strong>it</strong> is perfect <strong>to</strong> eat.”<br />

Luckily, this soup is perfect<br />

anytime. Make sure the<br />

Brie is also ripe, preferably a<br />

double-crème.<br />

ingredients<br />

• 2 large ripe pears<br />

• 2 cups homemade chicken broth<br />

• 240g . double-cream Brie cheese.<br />

preparation method<br />

• Peel the pears. Cut them in thick slices, removing the<br />

seeds. Put the chicken broth and pears in a large pot<br />

and simmer 10 <strong>to</strong> 15 minutes, until the pears are<br />

very soft.<br />

• Transfer the pears and broth <strong>to</strong> a food processor<br />

and process until very smooth. Return <strong>to</strong> the pot and<br />

simmer.<br />

• Trim the rind from the brie and cut the cheese in<strong>to</strong><br />

small pieces.<br />

• Slowly add the cheese and stir w<strong>it</strong>h a wooden spoon<br />

until melted. The soup should be creamy and smooth.<br />

Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Highland Park Scotch hWhisky h k<br />

The 12 Years Old is optimal. The Scotch’s <strong>to</strong>uches of smoke and peat round out the savoury notes of the<br />

Brie while heather and honey emphasise the sweetness of the pear. The complex<strong>it</strong>y of the combination is<br />

startling given the simplic<strong>it</strong>y of the dish.<br />

48 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

SERVES<br />

4/5<br />

49


Whisky and<br />

chilli tiger prawns<br />

{ }<br />

Th is is best served as<br />

a starter. Sucking the<br />

sweet sauce off the juicy<br />

crustaceans is an experience<br />

<strong>to</strong> be savoured, never hurried.<br />

Shelled and unshelled prawns<br />

are both fi ne <strong>to</strong> use. Serve<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h a green salad and hunks<br />

of crusty bread.<br />

preparation method<br />

50 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

ingredients<br />

• 2 limes, 1 juice and zest, 1 juice<br />

only<br />

• 90ml whisky<br />

• 180 soft light brown sugar<br />

• 20 raw tiger prawns, peeled,<br />

deveined<br />

• 1 red chilli, seeds removed,<br />

finely chopped<br />

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil<br />

• Preheat the oven <strong>to</strong> 200 o C.<br />

• Heat the lime juice, whisky and sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring gently, until the<br />

sugar has dissolved. Once the sugar has all dissolved, s<strong>to</strong>p stirring, turn up the heat and boil for 5–7<br />

minutes, or until the mixture becomes syrupy and thickens. To tell if <strong>it</strong> is ready, dip a wooden spoon<br />

in the mixture and tap off the excess – some glaze should still stick <strong>to</strong> the spoon, but <strong>it</strong> will not be as<br />

thick as honey. (Sometimes the whisky catches alight and you will see a <strong>blue</strong>-orange flame coming<br />

from the pan. Just take <strong>it</strong> off the heat and the whisky will burn <strong>it</strong>self out. )<br />

• Stir in the finely grated lime zest, then remove the pan from the heat and set aside.<br />

• Put the prawns in a shallow ovenproof dish and sprinkle over the chilli. Brush the prawns w<strong>it</strong>h the<br />

oil and then w<strong>it</strong>h the glaze. Bake in the oven for 10–15 minutes, or until the prawns turn opaque.<br />

Remove from the oven and brush w<strong>it</strong>h more glaze, reserving any extra glaze for dipping, and set<br />

aside <strong>to</strong> cool slightly before serving.<br />

Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Macallan’s Whisky<br />

Macallan’s flagship line is aged exclusively in used sherry casks; the flavours this imparts will blend<br />

well w<strong>it</strong>h the chilli and lime juice in the recipe. The prawns are rich enough <strong>to</strong> balance the Scotch more<br />

generally.


November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

51


Tuna tartare on avo cream<br />

ingredients<br />

Tuna<br />

• 700 g tuna<br />

Avocado cream<br />

• 3 avocados<br />

• 1/2 tsp. lemon juice<br />

• Salt and pepper<br />

Tartare dressing<br />

• zest of 1 lime<br />

• 1 shallot<br />

• 1/2 bunch chives<br />

• 1 tbsp. <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> concentrate<br />

• 1/2 tsp. Tabasco sauce<br />

• 200 ml (3/4 cup) wh<strong>it</strong>e wine<br />

• A small sprig of thyme<br />

• 1 tbsp. mayonnaise<br />

• 100 ml (6 tbsp.) olive oil<br />

• 8 grindings of fresh pepper<br />

• 8 grindings of fresh coriander<br />

• Salt and pepper<br />

Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Macallan Whisky<br />

For Macallan, Tuna Tartare <strong>make</strong>s a great variation on the whisky and raw fish theme. It’s a head-<strong>to</strong>head<br />

encounter between two rich products. What ties the two <strong>to</strong>gether is the nutty notes in the Scotch<br />

– the 18 Years Old may be the best match in this respect – and the sesame seeds, soy sauce, and honey.<br />

52 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

preparation method<br />

Tuna<br />

• Cut some bands of tuna 5 mm thick.<br />

• Using a size-45 round cutter, cut out 25 rounds.<br />

• Cut the remaining tuna in<strong>to</strong> brunoise, i.e., very small<br />

dice. Once the tuna has been cut up, set <strong>it</strong> aside in the<br />

refrigera<strong>to</strong>r.<br />

Avocado cream:<br />

• Halve the avocados; remove the p<strong>it</strong>s and peel.<br />

• Blend the avocado flesh w<strong>it</strong>h salt, pepper and 1/2 tsp.<br />

lemon juice.<br />

• Scoop back in<strong>to</strong> avo skins.<br />

Tartare dressing<br />

• Chop the shallot and chives.<br />

• Take a bowl and set <strong>it</strong> over another bowl filled w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

crushed ice.<br />

• Add the mayonnaise, 100 ml olive oil, <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong><br />

concentrate, Tabasco, chopped chives, freshly-ground<br />

pepper, coriander, lime zest, salt and pepper. Whisk.<br />

• Incorporate the finely diced tuna w<strong>it</strong>h a fork. Taste and<br />

adjust the seasoning w<strong>it</strong>h salt and pepper if necessary.<br />

Preparing the tartare<br />

• Place the tartare carefully on<strong>to</strong>p of on the avo cream


November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

SERVES<br />

4<br />

53


Lamb Cutlets w<strong>it</strong>h Coff ee-Chocolate<br />

Sauce and Garlic Purée w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

Aromatic Vegetables<br />

ingredients<br />

• 2 racks lamb, six ribs each<br />

• 4 Tbs <strong>blue</strong>berry<br />

preserves<br />

• 1 Tbs Dijon mustard<br />

(available in specialty and<br />

gourmet markets)<br />

• 8 wh<strong>it</strong>e grapes<br />

• ¾cup lamb s<strong>to</strong>ck, reduced<br />

preparation method<br />

54 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

• 1 strong espresso<br />

• ¼ tsp melted chocolate<br />

• 25g butter<br />

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled,<br />

halved and degermed<br />

• 1 thyme sprig<br />

• 1 rosemary sprig<br />

• 1 bay leaf<br />

Place the garlic cloves in aluminium foil w<strong>it</strong>h the<br />

aromatic herbs (thyme, bay leaf and rosemary),<br />

the olive oil and water. Wrap and cook in the<br />

oven for 3 hours at 180°F. When done, crush<br />

the garlic w<strong>it</strong>h a fork and thin w<strong>it</strong>h the cream.<br />

Season w<strong>it</strong>h salt and pepper <strong>to</strong> taste.<br />

Remove excess meat from the <strong>to</strong>p of the<br />

lamb chops, leaving the bones very clean.<br />

Peel the grapes, cut them in half vertically<br />

and seed them. Reduce the lamb s<strong>to</strong>ck, add the<br />

espresso and chocolate, whisk the butter in<strong>to</strong><br />

the sauce and add salt and pepper and half of the<br />

ground fennel seeds.<br />

Brown the racks of lamb and then baste w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

the candied <strong>blue</strong>berries and mustard. Cook the<br />

• 2 Tbs olive oil<br />

• 2 Tbs water<br />

• 90ml heavy cream<br />

• 10 fennel seeds, (black<br />

cumin)<br />

• Skin of one eggplant<br />

• Salt and pepper <strong>to</strong> taste<br />

racks of lamb for 5 minutes at 290 o C<br />

On a plate, line a ring mold w<strong>it</strong>h eggplant<br />

skin, fill w<strong>it</strong>h the garlic purée and then the triple<br />

lamb chop.<br />

To serve, sauce the plate and add the grapes.<br />

On the rim of the plate sprinkle the rest of the<br />

fennel seeds and the ground coffee.<br />

Along w<strong>it</strong>h meat, Speyside and Highland<br />

malts often pair well w<strong>it</strong>h chocolate. Put this<br />

<strong>to</strong> good use w<strong>it</strong>h Guy Martin’s recipe for Lamb<br />

Chops w<strong>it</strong>h Coffee-Chocolate Sauce and Garlic<br />

Purée w<strong>it</strong>h Aromatic Vegetables. The dark, rich<br />

espresso and chocolate flavours will match w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

similar flavors in the Scotch, just as the <strong>blue</strong>berry<br />

preserves bring some life <strong>to</strong> the Scotch’s dried<br />

fru<strong>it</strong> flavours. The Macallan Cask Strength <strong>make</strong>s<br />

the best pairing in these regards. The Scotch, in<br />

turn, also has some spice <strong>to</strong> offer up alongside<br />

the aromatic accompaniments in the dish.


November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

SERVES<br />

4<br />

55


Honey & Whisky ice-cream<br />

SERVES<br />

4<br />

ingredients<br />

• 300 ml double cream<br />

• 60 ml whisky<br />

• 60 ml liquid honey<br />

• 4 large egg yolks<br />

Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Glenlivet<br />

15 Year Old.<br />

The round, sweet, velvety taste of<br />

the whisky integrates well w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

the freshness of the ice-cream and<br />

compliments the honey in this dessert.<br />

56 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

preparation method<br />

• Whip the cream until <strong>it</strong> is thick adding the whisky<br />

gradually.<br />

• Put the honey in a small pan and heat <strong>it</strong>.<br />

• At the same time beat the yolks in a bowl.<br />

• Pour the hot honey in<strong>to</strong> the bowl containing the yolks<br />

and carry on beating the mixture until <strong>it</strong>’s pale and<br />

thick.<br />

• Gently fold in the cream and whisky mixture.<br />

• Put the mixture in a freezerproof container and freeze<br />

for three hours minimum.<br />

• Serve scoops, garnish w<strong>it</strong>h chopped walnuts and mint<br />

leaves.


Hot-spiced Bourbon Balls<br />

ingredients<br />

• .25 cup Bourbon<br />

• 2 tbsp Sorghum syrup, cane<br />

syrup, molasses or honey<br />

• 1.25 cups Powdered sugar,<br />

divided<br />

• 2 tbsp Cocoa powder<br />

• .5 tsp Cayenne pepper<br />

(optional)<br />

• .25 tsp Ground mace<br />

• .25 tsp Ground cinnamon<br />

• .5 tsp Salt<br />

• 10 oz Vanilla wafers (about 60)<br />

• 1 cup Coarsely chopped pecans<br />

preparation method<br />

In a small bowl, whisk <strong>to</strong>gether the bourbon and sorghum<br />

syrup until well combined. In a large bowl, sift <strong>to</strong>gether<br />

1 cup of the powdered sugar w<strong>it</strong>h the cocoa powder,<br />

cayenne, mace, cinnamon and salt. Using a wooden spoon<br />

or rubber spatula, stir in the bourbon mixture until a<br />

smooth, glossy paste forms. In a food processor, pulse<br />

the vanilla wafers in<strong>to</strong> fine crumbs, about 10 (5-second)<br />

pulses. Add the wafer crumbs and pecans <strong>to</strong> the bourbon<br />

mixture and stir until consistently doughy and workable,<br />

about 2 minutes. Roll the dough in<strong>to</strong> 1-inch balls, roll<br />

each ball in the remaining .25 cup powdered sugar, and<br />

place on a sheet of waxed paper. S<strong>to</strong>re in the refrigera<strong>to</strong>r<br />

in a container w<strong>it</strong>h a tight-f<strong>it</strong>ting lid, w<strong>it</strong>h a sheet of waxed<br />

paper between layers, for up <strong>to</strong> 4 days.<br />

Serve w<strong>it</strong>h a bourbon<br />

The fru<strong>it</strong>iness of a bourbon balances the hot and spicy ngredients in the Bourbon Balls.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

57


Cocktails<br />

Old Fashioned Black Ship<br />

ingredients:<br />

i di<br />

1 sugar cube (or .5 tsp granulated sugar)<br />

2-3 dashes Angostura B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />

Water or club soda<br />

60ml bourbon<br />

method:<br />

In an old fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, b<strong>it</strong>ters<br />

and a splash of water or club soda. Rotate the glass<br />

<strong>to</strong> coat the inside w<strong>it</strong>h the sugar mixture and add<br />

large ice cubes. Add the bourbon and garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />

Maraschino cherry and an orange wedge.<br />

Garnish: Maraschino cherry and orange wedge<br />

Glass: Old fashioned<br />

58 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

ingredients:<br />

45ml whisky<br />

30ml pomegranate juice<br />

7.5ml port<br />

1 tsp lemon juice<br />

method:<br />

Shake all the ingredients in a cocktail<br />

shaker w<strong>it</strong>h ice. Strain in<strong>to</strong> a chilled<br />

Martini glass and garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a lemon<br />

peel.<br />

Garnish: Lemon peel<br />

Glass: Martini


Bourbon Bloody Mary<br />

Kentucky Buck ingredients:<br />

45ml bourbon<br />

2 dashes celery salt<br />

2 dashes hot sauce<br />

2 dashes worcestershire sauce<br />

1 teaspoon wasabi<br />

Toma<strong>to</strong> juice<br />

ingredients:<br />

i di t<br />

45ml Bourbon<br />

dash Triple Sec<br />

splash orange juice<br />

splash cranberry juice<br />

splash simple syrup (one part sugar,<br />

one part water)<br />

method:<br />

Add all the ingredients <strong>to</strong> a shaker<br />

and fill w<strong>it</strong>h ice. Shake well. Strain<br />

in<strong>to</strong> a Collins glass filled w<strong>it</strong>h fresh ice.<br />

Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a lemon wheel.<br />

Garnish: Lemon wheel<br />

Glass: Collins<br />

method:<br />

Rim a pint glass w<strong>it</strong>h lime juice and celery salt. Then<br />

fill <strong>it</strong> w<strong>it</strong>h ice and add Basil Hayden’s Bourbon, celery<br />

salt, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and wasabi.<br />

Fill the remainder of the glass w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> juice. Stir<br />

well. Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a celery stalk, lime wedge and<br />

<strong>blue</strong> cheese stuffed olives.<br />

Garnish: Celery stalk, lime wedge and <strong>blue</strong> cheese<br />

stuffed olives<br />

Glass: Pint<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

59


Cocktails<br />

Mint Julep 81 Old Fashioned<br />

ingredients:<br />

7.5g raw sugar syrup (one part raw sugar, one part<br />

water)<br />

8 mint leaves<br />

60ml bourbon<br />

method:<br />

In a Julep cup, lightly muddle the mint and syrup.<br />

Add the bourbon and pack tightly w<strong>it</strong>h crushed ice.<br />

Stir until the cup is frosted on the outside. Top w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

more crushed ice <strong>to</strong> form an ice dome and garnish<br />

Garnish: Mint sprig<br />

Glass: Julep<br />

60 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

ingredients:<br />

1 tsp simple syrup (one part sugar, one<br />

part water)<br />

60ml bourbon<br />

2 dashes Angostura B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />

1 dash Orange B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />

method:<br />

Add all the ingredients <strong>to</strong> a mixing glass<br />

and fill w<strong>it</strong>h ice. Stir, and strain in<strong>to</strong> an<br />

Old Fashioned glass filled w<strong>it</strong>h fresh ice.<br />

Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h lemon and orange twists.<br />

Garnish: Lemon and orange twists<br />

Glass: Old Fashioned


1870 Sour<br />

ingredients:<br />

60ml<br />

30ml lemon juice<br />

7.5ml maple syrup<br />

1 egg wh<strong>it</strong>e<br />

1 tsp <strong>blue</strong>berry jam<br />

30ml Zinfandel wine<br />

method:<br />

Add all the ingredients except the wine<br />

<strong>to</strong> a shaker. Shake vigorously (w<strong>it</strong>hout<br />

ice) for 10 seconds. Fill w<strong>it</strong>h ice and<br />

shake for an add<strong>it</strong>ional 15 seconds.<br />

Fine strain in<strong>to</strong> a chilled 8-ounce<br />

Mason jar or a Bordeaux wine glass.<br />

Float the wine on <strong>to</strong>p using a spoon.<br />

Glass: Mason jar or red wine glass<br />

After-Dinner Sazerac<br />

ingredients:<br />

Coffee liqueur<br />

1 dash Angostura B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />

1 sugar cube<br />

60ml single malt whisky<br />

Method:<br />

Rinse a chilled Old Fashioned glass w<strong>it</strong>h coffee<br />

liqueur and set aside. In a mixing glass, muddle the<br />

b<strong>it</strong>ters and sugar cube. Add the whisky and fill w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

ice. Stir, and strain in<strong>to</strong> the prepared glass. Break<br />

a kaffir lime leaf in four places over the drink, run<br />

along the rim of the glass and discard.<br />

Garnish: Lime leaf<br />

Glass: Old Fashioned<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

61


How the Sazerac Came<br />

<strong>to</strong> be the Only Offi cial<br />

Cocktail of a C<strong>it</strong>y<br />

{ }<br />

Th e Sazerac cocktail is essentially an Old Fashioned but w<strong>it</strong>h an<br />

absinthe rinse of the glass and the nonappearance of ice. New Orleans<br />

is the only c<strong>it</strong>y w<strong>it</strong>h an offi cial drink, and that drink is the Sazerac. W<strong>it</strong>h<br />

changing liquor, from Cognac <strong>to</strong> Rye Whiskey or Bourbon, the cocktail<br />

has become a loaded representation of the culturally shifting New<br />

Orleans. As a simple drink, there is not much <strong>to</strong> argue regarding the<br />

Sazerac, but the his<strong>to</strong>ry is what sets <strong>it</strong> apart from other cocktails.<br />

62 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


An<strong>to</strong>ine Amedee Paychaud was the<br />

son of French plantation owners who<br />

fled what is now Ha<strong>it</strong>i. He grew up<br />

<strong>to</strong> be an apothecary in New Orleans<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h a s<strong>to</strong>refront on Royal Street. He<br />

opened his s<strong>to</strong>re in 1834 and quickly<br />

realized that a dose of liquor might<br />

<strong>make</strong> his <strong>to</strong>nics easier <strong>to</strong> ingest.<br />

His<strong>to</strong>ry says that Peychaud added<br />

small amounts of his own recipe for<br />

b<strong>it</strong>ters and served his <strong>to</strong>nic-b<strong>it</strong>ters<br />

mixture in eggcups called “coquetiers”<br />

filled w<strong>it</strong>h cognac or other French<br />

brandy. The word “coquetiers” was<br />

anglicized <strong>to</strong> bring “cocktail” in<strong>to</strong><br />

modern vocabulary. The eggcups were<br />

also thought <strong>to</strong> mark the introduction<br />

of a shot or the precursor <strong>to</strong> a jigger,<br />

now used for alcohol measurements<br />

in most drinks.<br />

The Sazerac Company of New<br />

Orleans says that by 1850, the Sazerac<br />

cocktail, made w<strong>it</strong>h Sazerac French<br />

brandy and Peychaud’s B<strong>it</strong>ters was<br />

already popular and quickly becoming<br />

the first “branded” cocktail. In 1873,<br />

the recipe for the Sazerac cocktail was<br />

altered <strong>to</strong> replace the French brandy<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h American Rye whiskey, and a<br />

dash of absinthe was added.<br />

The first printed recipe for<br />

the Sazerac Cocktail was in the<br />

1908 ed<strong>it</strong>ion of (former California<br />

Assemblyman) William Boothby’s<br />

The World’s Drinks and How <strong>to</strong> Mix<br />

Them. Shortly after the printed recipe,<br />

in 1912, absinthe was banned in the<br />

Un<strong>it</strong>ed States. Sazerac lovers were not<br />

lost for long. Herbsaint was created<br />

<strong>to</strong> fill the void. ‘Herb Sainte” is the<br />

New Orleanian term for wormwood,<br />

which was the ingredient in absinthe<br />

that gave <strong>it</strong> the mystique and negative<br />

reputation. Wormwood was also the ingredient<br />

absent in herbsaint that made the subst<strong>it</strong>ution legal.<br />

Even <strong>to</strong>day, w<strong>it</strong>h the legalization of absinthe, many<br />

bartenders continue <strong>to</strong> use herbsaint in the production<br />

of Sazeracs.<br />

Sazeracs are important <strong>to</strong> New Orleans because<br />

they represent the c<strong>it</strong>y in many ways. B<strong>it</strong>ters are an<br />

acquired taste that <strong>make</strong> the drink feel exclusive,<br />

absinthe culture in New Orleans has a windy and<br />

proud his<strong>to</strong>ry which gives the drink some of that<br />

absinthe mystery, and the evolving liquor base (brandy<br />

<strong>to</strong> whiskey <strong>to</strong> occasionally bourbon) is a reflection of<br />

changing cultures and his<strong>to</strong>ry in New Orleans. Sara<br />

Rohen, in Gumbo Tales described her feeling of loss<br />

and disconnect during Hurricane Katrina. Stranded<br />

in New York, she looked for Red Beans and Rice on<br />

Mondays and did not find <strong>it</strong>, she sought out Sazeracs <strong>to</strong><br />

connect her <strong>to</strong> home, but found that the time and place<br />

fac<strong>to</strong>r left her still feeling lost. A perfect Sazerac is such<br />

a part of New Orleans that you have <strong>to</strong> be there <strong>to</strong> truly<br />

appreciate and taste <strong>it</strong>.<br />

Finally, the question of which came first, the Sazerac<br />

or the Old Fashioned is up for dispute. Many sources<br />

begin their Sazerac descriptions heralding <strong>it</strong> as the<br />

first cocktail. But if Pechaud created the cocktail in the<br />

1830’s, and the oldest printed mention of a “cocktail”<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h a recipe was in 1806 (for an Old Fashioned in The<br />

Balance and Columbia Repos<strong>it</strong>ory in Hudson, New<br />

York), then the Old Fashioned must have come first.<br />

On the other hand, how could anything be listed as<br />

a “cocktail” before the alleged invention of the word<br />

adapted from Pechaud’s eggcup or “coquetier?” The<br />

evidence leans <strong>to</strong>ward the Old Fashioned as the basic<br />

recipe the Sazerac is a mimic w<strong>it</strong>h added ingredients.<br />

No matter which came first or what brandy was<br />

used, Sazeracs are part of the New Orleans s<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

There are companies that specialize in b<strong>it</strong>ters for<br />

Sazeracs, an entire Sazerac brand that sells all liquors<br />

including vodka and gin, and at least one Sazerac bar<br />

in New Orleans. Regardless of whether a person is a<br />

New Orleans resident or an admirer, the cocktail helps<br />

them connect <strong>to</strong> the layered his<strong>to</strong>ry and mystique of<br />

the great c<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

63


Jim Beam® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 40% Alc./Vol. ©2010 James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, KY.<br />

Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.


Summer Scotch<br />

By: Charles MacLean<br />

{ }<br />

Purists maintain that<br />

Scotch—especially single<br />

malt—must be drunk<br />

only straight, on the rocks<br />

or, if you must, w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />

splash of water, and they<br />

generally tend <strong>to</strong> think of<br />

<strong>it</strong> as a winter tipple.<br />

To each his own, but until the mid-1800s,<br />

most Scotch was actually consumed in<br />

punch. Jerry Thomas of course includes<br />

a recipe in his seminal 1862 bartender’s<br />

guide How <strong>to</strong> Mix Drinks, or The Bon<br />

Vivant’s Companion. It calls for steeping<br />

lemon-peel shavings in whisky, “which<br />

should be Glenlivet or Islay, of the best qual<strong>it</strong>y.” (He goes on<br />

<strong>to</strong> remark, cheekily, “as <strong>it</strong> requires genius <strong>to</strong> <strong>make</strong> whiskey<br />

punch, <strong>it</strong> would be impertinent <strong>to</strong> give proportions.”)<br />

Today, these concoctions are enjoying a revival<br />

in Edinburgh’s stylish bars and allow for all kinds of<br />

experimentation. They are also great served outdoors in<br />

warm weather (think barbecues).<br />

I recommend using a light-bodied blended Scotch<br />

as your base—Cutty Sark, Chivas Regal or J&B Rare, for<br />

example—but don’t be afraid <strong>to</strong> try malts as well: Talisker<br />

introduces spice while Laphroaig or Ardbeg adds smoke.<br />

Mix the whisky w<strong>it</strong>h ginger ale, ginger beer, lemonade,<br />

club soda, apple juice or elderflower liqueur. Lemon, lime<br />

and ginger seem <strong>to</strong> go best w<strong>it</strong>h Scotch. I like a dash of<br />

Tabasco Sauce or b<strong>it</strong>ters in some combinations, but please<br />

be discreet.<br />

To get you started, I asked Stuart McCluskey, one of<br />

Scotland’s leading mixologists and owner of The Bon<br />

Vivant bar in Edinburgh, <strong>to</strong> create a refreshing summer<br />

whisky punch recipe. Slàinte!<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

65


Smokey Haze on<br />

Summer days<br />

By: Stuart McCluskey<br />

Ingredients<br />

• 60ml light, smoky Scotch whisky<br />

(Talisker is ideal)<br />

• 30ml fresh lemon juice<br />

• 45ml rhubarb, ginger and honey<br />

syrup* (or <strong>to</strong> taste)<br />

• 1 handful summer berries<br />

(raspberries, strawberries,<br />

blackberries or a combination)<br />

• qual<strong>it</strong>y ginger ale<br />

Ingredients<br />

• 2 <strong>to</strong> 3 rhubarb stalks, roughly<br />

chopped<br />

• 2 <strong>to</strong> 3 slices fresh ginger<br />

• 2 oz honey, plus more if desired<br />

Charles MacLean, Master of the Quaich and James Beard Award winner, is the author of ten<br />

books on Scotch, including the Whiskypedia.<br />

66 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />

Preparation method<br />

• Add all ingredients except the ginger ale <strong>to</strong> a highball<br />

glass filled a third of the way w<strong>it</strong>h crushed ice. Stir<br />

lightly. Crown w<strong>it</strong>h a splash of ginger ale. Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

an orange wedge, mint sprig and a <strong>few</strong> summer berries.<br />

Glass: Highball<br />

Rhubarb, Ginger and Honey Syrup<br />

Preparation method<br />

• Add all the ingredients <strong>to</strong> a small saucepan and bring <strong>to</strong><br />

a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat <strong>to</strong> low and simmer<br />

until the rhubarb breaks down in<strong>to</strong> a pulp. Taste, and<br />

add more honey if desired. Strain through a fine-mesh<br />

strainer and refrigerate until cold before using.


November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

67


Glossary of tasting terms<br />

Austere: Seemingly stern, severe, and unadorned in character.<br />

Balanced: One flavour or aroma element does not dominate.<br />

Big: To be contrasted w<strong>it</strong>h “subtle”. Bold, dominant, hard <strong>to</strong> ignore flavours and<br />

presence in the mouth.<br />

Body: Refers <strong>to</strong> mouthfeel.<br />

Cerealy: Evocative of grain associations.<br />

Complex: Seeming <strong>to</strong> possess many layers of flavour, for which time is needed <strong>to</strong> examine<br />

and characterize all of them.<br />

Dark flavours: Reminiscent of flavours like molasses.<br />

Dignified: This is hard <strong>to</strong> describe. It reflects that <strong>it</strong> does not taste cloying or youthful.<br />

Usually clear, resonant flavours.<br />

Dry: Astringent and not sweet. In extreme cases the spir<strong>it</strong> can feel as if <strong>it</strong> contains no<br />

moisture.<br />

Estery: Aroma contains chemical esters. These are generally light, fru<strong>it</strong>y, floral scents.<br />

Finish: The time period in malt tasting after one has swallowed the spir<strong>it</strong>.<br />

Firm: Refers <strong>to</strong> mouthfeel. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “soft”.<br />

Grassy: Reminiscent of grass.<br />

Harsh: An unpleasantly aggressive or caustic flavour or feeling <strong>to</strong> the mouth or nose.<br />

Herbal: Reminiscent of k<strong>it</strong>chen herbs such as thyme, basil, lavender, or chamomile.<br />

Hot: Reminiscent of physical warmth, like freshly-brewed coffee.<br />

Late Palate: The time period in malt tasting after the spir<strong>it</strong> has been in the mouth for a while<br />

but has not yet been swallowed.<br />

Malt, Malty: Refers <strong>to</strong> the aroma and flavour of malted barley. “Malt” can also be an<br />

abbreviation of “Single Malt Scotch Whisky”.<br />

Medicinal: Evocative of memories of liquid medicines.<br />

68 WHISKY EDITION November 2011


Mouth-coating: Giving the impression that <strong>it</strong> has coated the inside of your mouth, as w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />

syrup.<br />

Mouthfeel: The tactile feel of the malt in the mouth. Largely a reflection of the physical<br />

qual<strong>it</strong>ies, but can also be significantly affected by flavour elements.<br />

Nose: Aroma. When used as a verb, means <strong>to</strong> sample the aroma.<br />

Nutty: Evocative of the taste of nuts, or reminiscent of the alkaloid qual<strong>it</strong>ies of some<br />

nuts.<br />

Oaky: Influenced by aging in an oak cask. Implies a woody, spicy, astringent character.<br />

Orange, Orangey: Reminiscent of the c<strong>it</strong>rus fru<strong>it</strong> of that name.<br />

Palate: Two meanings. Means e<strong>it</strong>her the taste components of the malt, or the time period<br />

when the spir<strong>it</strong> is in one’s mouth.<br />

Peat, Peaty: Peat is a fuel formed of compacted vegetative layers harvested from the<br />

moors. A peat fire has trad<strong>it</strong>ionally provided the heat <strong>to</strong> dry the malted<br />

barley used in scotch whisky production. A significant flavour element in<br />

many malts, this heavy, smoky, somewhat vegetative flavour is imparted by<br />

the distillery water having run over peat, the peat smoke used in the drying<br />

process, or both.<br />

Peppery: Reminiscent of black pepper or hot chile peppers. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “spicy”.<br />

Rich: Possessing robust, highly-flavoured elements, usually w<strong>it</strong>h a thick mouthfeel.<br />

Sherried: Influenced by aging in a sherry cask. Usually implies a sweet, somewhat winey<br />

character.<br />

Smoke, Smokey: Evocative of the flavour of smoke. Sometimes this is peat smoke, but other times<br />

the smoke is reminiscent of bonfires, leaf fires, log fireplaces, cigar <strong>to</strong>bacco, pipe<br />

<strong>to</strong>bacco, or something else.<br />

Soft: Refers <strong>to</strong> mouthfeel. Like a marshmallow. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “firm”.<br />

Spicy: Reminiscent of spices such as cinnamon, clove, or nutmeg. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

“peppery”.<br />

Subtle: The elements of interest are not obvious on the palate. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “big”.<br />

Sweet: E<strong>it</strong>her sweet in <strong>it</strong>self, or reminiscent of sweetness. Frequently implies a “wet”<br />

feeling in the mouth (contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “dry”.)<br />

Youthful: Full of vibrant, volatile, light characteristics. Flavours may not be well integrated,<br />

although they may be. Think of a young wine.<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

69


Whisky aroma wheel<br />

November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />

71


Enjoy Responsibly. Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.

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