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VERY FEW MAKE IT TO BLUE<br />
JOHNNIE WALKER ® BLUE LABEL . RARE CHARACTER. EPIC ACHIEVEMENT.<br />
Every great journey, every<br />
grand vision, every epic<br />
achievement. They all<br />
start somewhere.<br />
For JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />
BLUE LABEL <strong>it</strong> started<br />
in 1867 w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
Alexander Walker.<br />
1867. This was an age that<br />
would change the world<br />
beyond recogn<strong>it</strong>ion, an<br />
era that would see epic<br />
achievements in the fields<br />
of commerce, arch<strong>it</strong>ecture,<br />
philanthropy, engineering<br />
and banking. And, in this<br />
time of epic achievement,<br />
Alexander Walker was<br />
honing the blending skills<br />
that had been passed down<br />
from his father, John<br />
Walker, whose name is<br />
synonymous w<strong>it</strong>h Scotch<br />
Whisky <strong>it</strong>self.<br />
John Walker was just 15<br />
years old when he first<br />
opened a shop in Ayrshire<br />
in 1820 and began <strong>to</strong> trade<br />
in teas and spices from the<br />
New World, developing<br />
his talent in the subtle<br />
art of blending. It wasn’t<br />
long before he applied his<br />
skills <strong>to</strong> whisky. John, and<br />
later his sons, harnessed<br />
whisky flavours from the<br />
four corners of Scotland,<br />
marrying sweetness and<br />
smoke <strong>to</strong> produce deep,<br />
characterful blends.<br />
John’s son, Alexander, was<br />
like his father in many ways<br />
– determined, visionary<br />
and driven – but <strong>to</strong> an even<br />
greater extent. He searched<br />
for layered flavours and<br />
subtle notes that culminated<br />
in his 1867 Old Highland<br />
Whisky. A rare blend of<br />
such crafting and flavour,<br />
<strong>it</strong> became known as a<br />
defin<strong>it</strong>ive statement in<br />
whisky excellence.<br />
Alexander’s entrepreneurial<br />
vision knew no bounds.<br />
His Old Highland Whisky<br />
travelled <strong>to</strong> the four corners<br />
of the world, winning<br />
awards for excellence in<br />
Sydney, Jamaica, Paris<br />
and Brisbane. And, in his<br />
quest, he continued <strong>to</strong> break<br />
new ground. He created<br />
the four-cornered, square<br />
bottle so that <strong>it</strong> could be<br />
packed and shipped more<br />
easily. He slanted the label<br />
<strong>to</strong> precisely 24 degrees,<br />
making the JOHNNIE<br />
WALKER ® brand instantly<br />
recognisable. The design, as<br />
well as the whisky, became<br />
iconic and desirable and by<br />
1920 JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />
whiskies were sold in<br />
more than 120 countries.<br />
Today’s JOHNNIE<br />
WALKER ® BLUE LABEL <br />
is the commemoration<br />
of Alexander Walker’s<br />
remarkable Old Highland<br />
Whisky, demonstrating the<br />
same comm<strong>it</strong>ment <strong>to</strong> flavour<br />
and the blender’s art.<br />
JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />
BLUE LABEL is an epic<br />
achievement for the modern<br />
era, enjoyed by those<br />
who share <strong>it</strong>s founder’s<br />
comm<strong>it</strong>ment <strong>to</strong> excellence.<br />
To celebrate epic<br />
achievements of past and<br />
present a new look for this<br />
iconic luxury bottle has<br />
been launched. The new<br />
JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />
BLUE LABEL bottle is a<br />
celebration of the original<br />
19th century design w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
<strong>it</strong>s square shape, <strong>blue</strong>tinted<br />
glass and thick glass<br />
base. This peerless blend<br />
is a perfect combination of<br />
her<strong>it</strong>age and modern<strong>it</strong>y;<br />
a beautifully crafted<br />
Scotch Whisky, showcased<br />
in a striking,<br />
contemporary bottle.<br />
JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />
BLUE LABEL reflects the<br />
Walker family’s belief that<br />
ne<strong>it</strong>her whisky age alone,<br />
nor whisky from a single<br />
location, is enough <strong>to</strong> create<br />
an unrivalled masterpiece.<br />
For more information<br />
vis<strong>it</strong> www.facebook.com/<br />
johnniewalkersouthafrica<br />
Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.
Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.<br />
22405
VERY FEW MAKE IT TO BLUE<br />
IN 1867 ALEXANDER WALKER CREATED OLD HIGHLAND WHISKY, A BLEND OF SUCH<br />
CRAFT, IT CHANGED THE ART OF WHISKY MAKING FOREVER. JOHNNIE WALKER ®<br />
BLUE LABEL TM IS THE HOMAGE TO THIS MASTERPIECE. OUR MASTER BLENDER HAND<br />
SELECTS THE 1 IN 10,000 CASKS THAT POSSESS THE UNIQUE CHARACTER NEEDED<br />
TO CREATE THIS RARE BLEND. SAVOURED BY THE DISCERNING TODAY, JUST AS OLD<br />
HIGHLAND WHISKY WAS THEN. AN EPIC ACHIEVEMENT INDEED.<br />
THE JOHNNIE WALKER, BLUE LABEL AND KEEP WALKING WORDS, THE STRIDING FIGURE DEVICE AND<br />
ASSOCIATED LOGOS ARE TRADE MARKS ® JOHNNIE WALKER & SONS 2011.<br />
Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.<br />
22600
“Local is Liquor”<br />
Is published by<br />
Media Options cc<br />
P O Box 650337<br />
Benmore 2011<br />
Tel: (011) 789 6378<br />
Ed<strong>it</strong>ors:<br />
Irene Jones<br />
Ilse Mather<br />
Feature Wr<strong>it</strong>ers:<br />
Jonathan Miles<br />
Dave Hughes<br />
Steve Adams<br />
Jacques Bezuidenhout<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>grapher:<br />
Steve Adams<br />
Creative & Art<br />
Direction<br />
Frankie Matthysen<br />
Print Co-ordination:<br />
Paradigm Print<br />
Advertising Sales:<br />
Media Options<br />
(011) 789-6378<br />
082 445 9006<br />
0860 300 999<br />
Contents<br />
04 WHISKY MAKING AROUND THE WORLD: By Jonathan Miles<br />
08 FNB WHISKY LIVE FESTIVAL 2011<br />
16 WHISKY BUCKET LIST: 10 Whiskies <strong>to</strong> try before you die.<br />
22 DONALD COLVILLE – Global Scotch Brand Ambassador <strong>to</strong><br />
liquor giant Diegeo.<br />
24 JOHNNIE WALKER DOUBLE BLACK – Lim<strong>it</strong>ed release.<br />
26 DISTILLERY FEATURE – Laphroaig.<br />
30 OUR WHISKY EXPERTS’ OPINION ON JOHNNIE WALKER<br />
BLUE.<br />
36 GRAIN WHISKY: By Dave Hughes.<br />
40 OLD-SCHOOL SPIRITS AND FAST FACTS: By Jacques Cortez.<br />
44 WHISKY AND FOOD PAIRING: By world experts Fiona Beckett<br />
and Charles Maclean.<br />
48 BRIE & PEAR SOUP.<br />
50 WHISKY AND CHILLI TIGER PRAWNS.<br />
52 TUNA TARTARE ON AVO CREAM.<br />
54 LAMB CUTLETS WITH COFFEE-CHOCOLATE SAUCE.<br />
56 HONEY & WHISKY ICE-CREAM.<br />
57 HOT-SPICED BOURBON BALLS.<br />
58 COCKTAILS.<br />
62 HOW THE SAZERAC CAME TO BE THE ONLY OFFICIAL<br />
COCKTAIL OF A CITY.<br />
65 SUMMER SCOTCH: By Charles MacLean<br />
68 GLOSSARY OF TASTING TERMS<br />
71 WHISKY AROMA WHEEL<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
01
140 BBDO_805314_E<br />
www.threeshipswhisky.co.za<br />
Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.
Th e Whisky ed<strong>it</strong>ion<br />
{ }<br />
As a whisky lover, we are sure that you will<br />
thoroughly enjoy our special whisky ed<strong>it</strong>ion of<br />
<strong>Makro</strong>’s Local is Liquor. Every article in this ed<strong>it</strong>ion<br />
was wr<strong>it</strong>ten by the whisky gurus themselves. So s<strong>it</strong><br />
back, pour yourself a dram of your favour<strong>it</strong>e whisky,<br />
and be prepared for a whisky journey that will<br />
transport you away <strong>to</strong> a world of pleasure.<br />
Dave tells us more about Whisky<br />
Making Around The World; as well<br />
as sharing w<strong>it</strong>h us his opinions on<br />
grain whiskies. Read about the biggest<br />
whisky show in the world – our very<br />
own Whisky Live Show, which is<br />
taking place from 2 – 4 November in<br />
Cape Town, and 9 – 11 November in<br />
Johannesburg. Don’t miss <strong>it</strong>!<br />
Read about which whiskies Jason<br />
Duganzich, one of South Africa’s<br />
leading Whisky experts, thinks you<br />
should try before you die.<br />
The distillery featured this month<br />
is the beautiful Laphroaig distillery<br />
(the name means: “the beautiful<br />
hollow by the broad bay”) s<strong>it</strong>uated on<br />
the scenic Isle of Islay.<br />
Our experts (Jonathan Miles,<br />
Dave Hughes, Marsh Middle<strong>to</strong>n and<br />
Steve Adams) give their opinions on<br />
the magnificent Johnnie Walker Blue<br />
Label – which will <strong>make</strong> you want <strong>to</strong><br />
run out and invest in a bottle of this<br />
liquid gold.<br />
Then there is food – delicious dishes that pair well<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h whisky: Brie & Pear Soup; Whisky and Chili Tiger<br />
Prawns; Tuna Tartare on Avo Cream; Lamb Cutlets<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h Coffee-Chocolate Sauce – not <strong>to</strong> mention our<br />
delicious whisky deserts. And as usual, cocktails made<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h whisky – all and all, enough <strong>to</strong> urge you <strong>to</strong> have a<br />
“Whisky” dinner party <strong>to</strong> really impress your friends.<br />
The only thing left <strong>to</strong> say is cheers in all the whisky<br />
languages:<br />
Cheers, Gesondheid: South Africa<br />
Cheers: America<br />
Slainte: Ireland<br />
Slainte, Here’s tae yer: Scotland<br />
Kampai Banzi: Japan.<br />
Until next time.<br />
Tony Conde<br />
Spir<strong>it</strong>s Buyer<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
03
Whisky making<br />
By: Jonathan Miles<br />
{ }<br />
Th ere is no doubt that whisky tastes vary when made in<br />
diff erent parts of the world. Th e vanilla sweetness of American<br />
bourbon is very diff erent <strong>to</strong> a peaty whisky from the Isle of Islay in<br />
Scotland or the smooth <strong>to</strong>nes of a triple distilled Irish whiskey.<br />
Th ere’s more <strong>to</strong> <strong>it</strong> than just a simple spelling mistake.<br />
So, S whether h th we spell ll w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>h or w<strong>it</strong>hout <strong>it</strong>h t the th “e”, “ ” and d regulations l ti <strong>to</strong> t control t l and d protect t t<br />
what is the difference in the methods used in the their whisky styles.<br />
various countries where whisky distilling prowess In Scotland single malt whisky<br />
has become a source of national pride. We’ll focus is made from malted barley, water<br />
on Scotland, Ireland and the USA, the major whisky and yeast. The malted barley is<br />
producing countries that have very structured rules dried e<strong>it</strong>her w<strong>it</strong>h or w<strong>it</strong>hout the<br />
04 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
around the world<br />
influence of peat. It is then mashed<br />
<strong>to</strong> extract a sweet, sugary wort,<br />
which is fermented by the add<strong>it</strong>ion<br />
of yeast <strong>to</strong> an alcohol strength of<br />
about 8% and then distilled first in<br />
a wash still and secondly in a low<br />
wines or spir<strong>it</strong> still. The middle cut,<br />
taken at approximately 67-71%<br />
alcohol strength, is the heart of the<br />
distillation and is laid down <strong>to</strong> age<br />
in oak casks for three years where<br />
after <strong>it</strong> can then be called whisky.<br />
The oak casks in Scotland are second<br />
hand, having generally had bourbon<br />
or sherry in them before being used<br />
for aging in Scotland. Scotland’s cool<br />
climate tends <strong>to</strong> allow the wood <strong>to</strong><br />
gently impact on the whisky over<br />
time.<br />
It’s qu<strong>it</strong>e a contrast when we go<br />
<strong>to</strong> the USA, where in bourbon making<br />
at least 51% of the mashbill has <strong>to</strong><br />
be corn. Generally about 70% of the<br />
mashbill is made up of corn, w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
Rye and malted barley making up the<br />
balance. The fermentations take a<br />
good while longer and most distilleries<br />
use their own propagated yeast<br />
strains which they have been using<br />
for years. The mash is transferred<br />
unfiltered <strong>to</strong> the column stills where<br />
distillation takes place until about<br />
30% of the mash is left over. This is<br />
called sour mash and <strong>it</strong> is transferred<br />
back <strong>to</strong> the fermentation tanks where<br />
<strong>it</strong> forms part of the next mash, hence<br />
the term sour mash whiskey on<br />
many bourbon or Tennessee whiskey<br />
bottles. The Americans use only new<br />
oak wood for the aging process which<br />
means that the influence of the wood<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
05
in their warmer climate is more dramatic. The new<br />
wood releases a lot more tannins and vanillin’s in<strong>to</strong><br />
the new <strong>make</strong> spir<strong>it</strong> and the warmer climate ensures<br />
wood expansion in the summer months allowing<br />
the wood <strong>to</strong> absorb more of the spir<strong>it</strong>. As the cooler<br />
winter temperature contracts the wood, the enriched<br />
flavours are pushed back in<strong>to</strong> the whiskey thus giving<br />
a rich, sweet vanilla flavour, complemented by tropical<br />
fru<strong>it</strong> such as banana and coconut. It must be aged for<br />
at least 2 years before <strong>it</strong> can be called whiskey and<br />
generally we get bourbon bottled at around 4 years<br />
old. Some bourbons are aged for longer and may be<br />
released as single barrel expressions <strong>to</strong> demonstrate<br />
the qual<strong>it</strong>y that good wood can impart on a fine<br />
whiskey.<br />
The Scots are known <strong>to</strong> say that the Irish distill<br />
their whiskey 3 times because they can’t get <strong>it</strong> right<br />
the first two times. However, there are good reasons<br />
for triple distillation and the Irish cap<strong>it</strong>alize on the<br />
main aspect which delivers a purer and smoother<br />
spir<strong>it</strong> as many of the harsher flavours are distilled<br />
off by the end of the third distillation. Using malted<br />
barley and grains for the basis of their whiskies, the<br />
Irish also use a combination of pot and column stills <strong>to</strong><br />
great effect in arriving at their smooth final products.<br />
Their whiskey is also aged in oak casks for 3 years<br />
before <strong>it</strong> can be called whiskey. The judicious use of<br />
bourbon and sherry casks adds wonderful flavour<br />
06 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
and smoothness <strong>to</strong> the whiskey and<br />
leads <strong>to</strong> the classic Irish whiskies we<br />
enjoy <strong>to</strong>day.<br />
One can’t talk about whisky<br />
making around the world w<strong>it</strong>hout<br />
mentioning South Africa’s own<br />
Three Ships brand which over the<br />
past three decades has developed<br />
in<strong>to</strong> an excellent whisky, winning<br />
many accolades and gold medals at<br />
the International Spir<strong>it</strong>s Awards in<br />
London. Their recently introduced<br />
Three Ships Bourbon Cask Finish is a<br />
showcase <strong>to</strong> South Africa’s abil<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>make</strong> a world class whisky and <strong>it</strong> is<br />
well worth trying.<br />
Fortunately, we all have different<br />
tastes that we find pleasing for our<br />
palate, so the wonderful ranges on<br />
offer nowadays are sure <strong>to</strong> allow us<br />
<strong>to</strong> find whiskies that we can enjoy.<br />
Exploring the different whisky<br />
expressions from around the world<br />
can be fun and rewarding as you<br />
settle on your favour<strong>it</strong>e tipple.
140 BBDO_805314_E<br />
THREE SHIPS PRESENTS A NEW LIMITED EDITION<br />
10 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT<br />
WHISKY.<br />
True <strong>to</strong> the pioneering spir<strong>it</strong> of Three Ships Whisky, we introduced South Africa’s first single malt in 2003.<br />
We are now proud <strong>to</strong> present our new Lim<strong>it</strong>ed Ed<strong>it</strong>ion 10-Year-Old Single Malt Whisky.<br />
Crafted and matured at the James Sedgwick Distillery in Welling<strong>to</strong>n, this superb whisky is created<br />
using only the finest qual<strong>it</strong>y malted barley. Under the watchful eye of master distiller Andy Watts,<br />
<strong>it</strong> is aged for 10 years in specially selected oak casks <strong>to</strong> achieve a superior, full finish.<br />
Savour the amber glow of our finest whisky <strong>to</strong> date.<br />
www.threeshipswhisky.co.za<br />
Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.
FNB Whisky Live Festival<br />
Th e FNB<br />
Whisky Live<br />
Festival, which<br />
runs from 2 - 4<br />
November<br />
2011 in Cape<br />
Town, and 9<br />
-11 November<br />
2011 in<br />
Johannesburg,<br />
is set <strong>to</strong> take<br />
both whisky<br />
connoisseurs<br />
and new<br />
<strong>to</strong> whisky<br />
drinkers on an<br />
unforgettable<br />
journey<br />
through the<br />
allure, origins,<br />
fl avours and<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry of<br />
whisky.<br />
08 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
revolutionises the<br />
world of whisky<br />
Book early so you don’t miss out<br />
Building on <strong>it</strong>s reputation as the<br />
largest, liveliest and most entertaining<br />
whisky lifestyle show of <strong>it</strong>s kind, the<br />
ninth annual festival will showcase<br />
more than 180 local and international<br />
whiskies, a choice of whisky liqueurs,<br />
a range of luxury lifestyle products<br />
and a host of whiskies new <strong>to</strong> South<br />
Africa. A<br />
Says Karen Chaloner, co-founder<br />
of the festival: “Long gone are the<br />
days of whisky being the preserve<br />
of a select <strong>few</strong>. Today, whisky, that<br />
gorgeous golden dram known as<br />
‘the water of life’, is one of the fastest<br />
growing spir<strong>it</strong> categories in South<br />
AAfrica.”<br />
Last year, the Johannesburg leg<br />
of the FNB Whisky Live Festival sold<br />
out. L<strong>it</strong>tle wonder when the likes of<br />
award-winning whisky wr<strong>it</strong>er Dave<br />
Broom dubbed the South African<br />
FNB Whisky Live Festival as “the<br />
benchmark for spir<strong>it</strong> shows globally,<br />
the innova<strong>to</strong>r” and a show that<br />
“continuously smashes all barriers <strong>to</strong><br />
entry in<strong>to</strong> the whisky world, making<br />
whisky exc<strong>it</strong>ing, fun, youthful and<br />
sexy”.<br />
According <strong>to</strong> festival co-founder,<br />
Sian Neubert, you do not want <strong>to</strong><br />
miss out on this year’s show.<br />
“Tickets will sell out quickly, so
diarise mid September <strong>to</strong> pre-book<br />
online and ensure you secure a<br />
ticket,” she says.<br />
Whether you’re a novice <strong>to</strong> the<br />
world of whisky, or a long time<br />
whisky connoisseur w<strong>it</strong>h the most<br />
discerning of palates, the organisers<br />
promise that the 2011 festival will<br />
offer something for everyone.<br />
“The FNB Whisky Live Festival<br />
has always been about sharing the<br />
passion and unravelling the mystery<br />
around whisky. But even more so, <strong>it</strong>’s<br />
about like-minded friends, associates<br />
and whisky lovers gathered under one<br />
roof, tasting whisky and experiencing<br />
the premium lifestyle that whisky<br />
drinkers enjoy.”<br />
Whisky education remains a key focus, giving<br />
festival goers an unmatched opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> discover<br />
the magic that goes in<strong>to</strong> whisky making which, in<br />
turn, uncovers new and interesting ways <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />
every dram. This year’s attractions include:<br />
• Blended perfection: The newly launched Compass<br />
Box Art of Blending Zone gives you a taste of<br />
something unique in the Compass Box whiskies as<br />
inspiration, then allows you <strong>to</strong> blend your very own<br />
dram;<br />
• Pleasure distilled: The Glen Grant Distillation<br />
Zone gives you Dave Akker, Edward Snell’s master<br />
distiller, in Cape Town, and Glen Grant master<br />
distiller Dennis Malcolm in Johannesburg, who will<br />
host three interactive and informal workshops per<br />
night, helping you understand the significance of<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
09
copper stills in the whisky distillation process;<br />
• Perfume perfection: The Macallan Aroma Zone<br />
presents The Macallan Aroma Box – a collection<br />
of 12 highly articulate scents, which international<br />
perfume company, Roja Dove, has created <strong>to</strong><br />
describe the classic aromas, and scents of The<br />
Macallan Range. Learn <strong>to</strong> identify and describe<br />
these key aromas, as well as how wood affects the<br />
colour, flavour and fragrances of The Macallan’s<br />
different expressions.<br />
• Feeding the soul: The Pick n Pay Canapé and Whisky<br />
Pairing Zone offers a taste sensation second <strong>to</strong> none<br />
by showcasing the art of pairing the sublime flavours<br />
of whisky w<strong>it</strong>h delectable canapés. International<br />
food whisky guru Martine Nouet will be co-hosting<br />
these hands-on whisky canapé cocktail parties w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
Pick n Pay chefs showing you how <strong>to</strong> <strong>make</strong> up three<br />
10 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
canapés using fresh PnP ingredients,<br />
and pairing them w<strong>it</strong>h whiskies for<br />
the ultimate cocktail party, that you<br />
can re-create at home.<br />
• The Choice of Royalty since 1783:<br />
Schweppes is the distinctively<br />
timeless and sophisticated adult<br />
drink for those w<strong>it</strong>h a good taste. The<br />
Schweppes Art of Whisky Cocktail<br />
Making Zone will teach whisky<br />
lovers the art of whisky mixing<br />
using Schweppes premium mixers.<br />
It will also challenge you <strong>to</strong> create<br />
your own cocktail masterpieces.<br />
• Become a Sommelier w<strong>it</strong>h Valpré:<br />
Valpré, the premium spring water,<br />
will be giving whisky lovers an
experience that will help demystify<br />
the art of mixing water and whisky.<br />
Learn how much Valpré Spring<br />
Water <strong>to</strong> add <strong>to</strong> your tipple, how<br />
<strong>to</strong> pour <strong>it</strong> in<strong>to</strong> your glass, and what<br />
guidelines <strong>to</strong> follow <strong>to</strong> “release<br />
the serpent” (the esters and floral<br />
notes previously held captive in the<br />
dormant aged liquid).<br />
• Whisky workshops: The FNB<br />
Whisky Live Festival Whisky<br />
Workshops regularly sell out thanks<br />
<strong>to</strong> the opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> taste unique<br />
whiskies generally unavailable in<br />
the Tasting Hall or even in South<br />
Africa. More than this, these one-<br />
hour tu<strong>to</strong>rials, led by whisky experts w<strong>it</strong>h a knack<br />
of explaining whisky jargon in simple everyday<br />
language, will completely revolutionise the way you<br />
taste and value whisky;<br />
• Become a collec<strong>to</strong>r: Each year, the festival releases<br />
a unique, now highly sought-after, FNB Whisky Live<br />
Special Bottling – this year The GlenDronach gives<br />
you <strong>it</strong>s special collec<strong>to</strong>r’s lim<strong>it</strong>ed ed<strong>it</strong>ion;<br />
• Luxury lifestyle: The new-look Volvo Whisky<br />
Lifestyle Lounge will be the place <strong>to</strong> see and be seen.<br />
Partnered w<strong>it</strong>h the festival as the official lifestyle<br />
and transport brand, luxury car brand Volvo will<br />
provide the perfect setting for networking and<br />
client entertainment or meeting up w<strong>it</strong>h likeminded<br />
friends in a relaxed and stylish atmosphere.<br />
Plus, <strong>it</strong> will offer tastings of whiskies unavailable<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
11
in the main Tasting Hall at the exclusive Whisky<br />
Boutique Bar. A hosp<strong>it</strong>al<strong>it</strong>y package includes<br />
access <strong>to</strong> the Volvo Whisky Lifestyle Lounge and<br />
Whisky Boutique Bar, a whisky cocktail and a light<br />
dinner – plus the opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> spend some time<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h Volvo representatives w<strong>it</strong>h whom you can<br />
request <strong>to</strong> set up a test drive of the spectacular<br />
Volvo range.<br />
• The ultimate guided <strong>to</strong>ur: The popular Connoisseur’s<br />
Experience, ‘The Ultimate Guided Whisky Tour’,<br />
sells out w<strong>it</strong>hin hours of tickets opening each<br />
year. This year promises <strong>to</strong> be no different. Newly<br />
sponsored by Volvo, this experience offers festival<br />
goers the opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> be chauffeur driven <strong>to</strong> the<br />
festival in a luxurious Volvo where you will then<br />
12 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
join a guided <strong>to</strong>ur <strong>to</strong> savour rare<br />
whiskies not widely available.<br />
“Whisky lovers, celebr<strong>it</strong>ies and<br />
those who appreciate the finer things<br />
in life refer <strong>to</strong> the FNB Whisky Live<br />
Festival as ‘The most sought after<br />
event of the year’. It’s easy <strong>to</strong> see<br />
why,” says Chaloner.<br />
Bernice Samuels, FNB Chief<br />
Marketing Officer, adds: “We are<br />
delighted and encouraged by the<br />
feedback from our FNB clients and<br />
the general public, and hope that you<br />
enjoy your experience at this year’s<br />
event.”
FNB Whisky Live Festival Facts<br />
November will be, w<strong>it</strong>hout doubt,<br />
whisky month as <strong>it</strong> sees the annual<br />
FNB Whisky Live Festival return<br />
for <strong>it</strong>s ninth year <strong>to</strong> The Cape Town<br />
International Convention Centre,<br />
from 2 November - 4 November<br />
2011 (18h00 <strong>to</strong> 22h00 daily) and the<br />
Sand<strong>to</strong>n Convention Centre, from 9 –<br />
11 November (18h00 – 22h00 daily)<br />
for <strong>it</strong>s showcase of whiskies from<br />
around the world.<br />
A variety of ticket options will be<br />
available for purchase via the webs<strong>it</strong>e<br />
- www.whiskylivefestival.co.za - from mid-September<br />
2011. The organisers suggest you book early <strong>to</strong> avoid<br />
disappointment.<br />
The FNB Whisky Live Festival promotes<br />
responsible drinking. No persons under the age of<br />
18 years old will be allowed in<strong>to</strong> the Tasting Hall.<br />
Designated driver tickets are available w<strong>it</strong>h discounted<br />
food vouchers and a bottle of Valpré mineral water<br />
included in the ticket price. Various chauffeur drive<br />
services and drive responsibly in<strong>it</strong>iatives will be on<br />
hand <strong>to</strong> ensure that everyone in your party is able <strong>to</strong><br />
have a good time and a safe journey home. Part of the<br />
ticket proceeds will continue <strong>to</strong> be donated <strong>to</strong> The<br />
Foundation for Alcohol Related Research.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
13
TEN Whiskies <strong>to</strong> try<br />
Before you die<br />
{ }<br />
One of South Africa’s leading<br />
Whisky experts and afi cionado,<br />
Jason Duganzich, Glenfi ddich Brand<br />
Ambassador, shares his <strong>to</strong>p 10<br />
Whiskies. “I have chosen these whiskies<br />
for their specifi c tasting notes, and<br />
because they conjure up a memories<br />
for me,” says Duganzich.<br />
16 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
1<br />
Balvenie 15 Year<br />
Old Single Barrel<br />
(Scotch Single<br />
Malt – Speyside)<br />
“When you taste<br />
this whisky for<br />
the first time,<br />
you marvel<br />
at the rich,<br />
honeyed-malt<br />
flavours and<br />
mouth watering<br />
feel. It’s bottled<br />
at cask strength,<br />
so steady<br />
yourself.<br />
This is the whisky that started<br />
<strong>it</strong> all for me”, says Duganzich.<br />
“It was the first bottle of malt<br />
whisky that I purchased in 1994<br />
when I decided <strong>to</strong> learn more<br />
about whisky appreciation.”
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
Glenfi ddich 15 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside)<br />
“This is a big whisky that is mouth-filling, succulent and spicy-sweet, you<br />
can’t go wrong w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>. If I was only allowed <strong>to</strong> drink one whisky for the<br />
rest of my life, this would be <strong>it</strong>. I drink Fiddich 15 year old religiously. It<br />
also pairs well w<strong>it</strong>h a variety of tasty meals as well as most robust s<strong>to</strong>gies.<br />
I predict that one day this will be the biggest selling Scotch Malt Whisky<br />
in the world.”<br />
Ardberg 1975 25 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Islay)<br />
“It <strong>to</strong>ok me about four years <strong>to</strong> acquire the taste for Islay Malts. When I<br />
began enjoying them I dabbled w<strong>it</strong>h qu<strong>it</strong>e a <strong>few</strong>. I have found that Ardberg<br />
is simply the most balanced Islay Malt there is. When you have a dose of<br />
1975 25 year old you know memories are made of this.”<br />
NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Macallan 18 Year Old Gran Reserva (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside)<br />
“It’s big, juicy, fru<strong>it</strong>y and then a drying sherry note sensation grips your<br />
<strong>to</strong>ngue like a bear hug. Select Sherry butts are the secret <strong>to</strong> maturing this<br />
stunner of a malt. It’s a p<strong>it</strong>y we don’t get this in South Africa anymore, <strong>it</strong>’s<br />
a sensational whisky.”<br />
Highland Park 18 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Orkney Island)<br />
“Rich, layers of heathery-honey, peat smoke and malt. It’s a great after<br />
dinner whisky w<strong>it</strong>h some good friends.”<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
17
6<br />
7<br />
8<br />
9<br />
George T Stagg 16 Year Old (Single Barrel Bourbon – Kentucky)<br />
“Never add a thing <strong>to</strong> this please. It’s qu<strong>it</strong>e possibly the ‘Dragons’ Bollocks’.<br />
The burn will fade and waves of flavour will abound. I imagine this must<br />
be similar <strong>to</strong> the thrill of surfing through a tube.”<br />
NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Mortlach 22 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside – Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength Bottling)<br />
“Easily one of the better whiskies I have had the pleasure of sipping, sharing<br />
and eventually polishing off. It’s a ‘once off’ which defeats the purposes<br />
of this list I guess, unless you know how <strong>to</strong> get some from somewhere. I<br />
love Mortlach, <strong>it</strong> is the ‘Beast of Speyside Malt Whisky’, rich, flavourful,<br />
sumptuous, but extraordinary if you can get a bottle.”<br />
NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Inchgower 27 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Speyside) – Cadenhead Cask Strength bottling.<br />
“Sweet and dry, mouth coating, the sherry cask maturation gives this malt<br />
oomph. Imagine an early winters’ morning, fire roaring, snuggled in bed,<br />
a box of Godiva truffles - the perfect setting <strong>to</strong> pour yourself a dram of this.<br />
You will experience one of life’s perfect moments.”<br />
NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Springbank 35 Year Old (Scotch Single Malt – Campbel<strong>to</strong>wn – Lim<strong>it</strong>ed Release<br />
“A whisky men<strong>to</strong>r, BJ Lankwarden, introduced me <strong>to</strong> this one. Springbank<br />
<strong>make</strong>s delicious whisky, but the 35 year old is truly something very very special.<br />
One of the most complex and layered whiskies I have ever had the pleasure <strong>to</strong><br />
enjoy. I’m not sure what is happening w<strong>it</strong>h the distribution in South Africa, <strong>it</strong>’s<br />
not that easy <strong>to</strong> come by. Where can I get some more please?”<br />
NOT AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />
18 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
10 Glenfi ddich<br />
40 Year Old<br />
(Scotch Single Malt –<br />
Speyside – First Vatting /<br />
Release)<br />
“When pressed<br />
<strong>to</strong> say which<br />
is the best<br />
whisky I have<br />
ever tasted,<br />
this keeps<br />
coming up as<br />
my personal<br />
favour<strong>it</strong>e. Not<br />
that there is<br />
anything wrong<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h the other<br />
releases, but the first vatting is<br />
probably the most memorable<br />
for me. A perfect balance<br />
between fru<strong>it</strong>, sweet notes, rich<br />
barley, drying oakiness, <strong>it</strong> is<br />
abundant and mouth watering<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h a warming finish that<br />
leaves you longing for more, and<br />
completely in love w<strong>it</strong>h whisky.”<br />
Th is year, the festival will off er<br />
something for everybody over<br />
the age of 18, including many<br />
returning favour<strong>it</strong>es such as fun<br />
and interactive whisky workshops,<br />
the new-look Volvo Whisky<br />
Lifestyle Lounge, and the hugely<br />
popular Volvo Connoisseur’s<br />
Experience, ‘Th e Ultimate Guided<br />
Tour’. Vis<strong>it</strong>ors will also be able<br />
<strong>to</strong> learn how <strong>to</strong> <strong>make</strong> whisky<br />
cocktails, blend their own whisky,<br />
pair the sublime fl avours of whisky<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h delectable canapés, as well as<br />
gain a better understanding of how<br />
wood aff ects the colour, fl avour<br />
and fragrances of whisky, and the<br />
signifi cance of copper stills in the<br />
whisky distillation process plus<br />
much more.<br />
Vis<strong>it</strong><br />
www.whiskylivefestival.co.za<br />
for more information.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
19
How <strong>to</strong> Taste Whisky<br />
Whisky, like wine and beer, is an acquired taste.<br />
Knowing how <strong>to</strong> taste whisky is imperative <strong>to</strong><br />
your enjoyment of <strong>it</strong>.<br />
Things you’ll need:<br />
• Good whisky<br />
• Snifter or rocks glass<br />
Choice of Glass<br />
Pour about an ounce of whisky in<strong>to</strong> a snifter<br />
or a small rocks glass. The snifter is better for<br />
tasting because the tapered shape of the glass<br />
concentrates the bouquet inside the glass.<br />
Appreciate the colour<br />
The pale <strong>to</strong> dark colour gold of whisky<br />
shimmers and glints inv<strong>it</strong>ingly, but the colour<br />
isn’t a reliable indica<strong>to</strong>r of age or flavour – this<br />
is purely aesthetic. A light whisky can still be<br />
powerful. The colour is drawn from the type of<br />
wood used for maturation.<br />
Nose the Whisky<br />
Pick up the glass and tilt <strong>it</strong> enough for the<br />
whisky <strong>to</strong> reach <strong>to</strong>ward the rim. Slowly turn<br />
the glass <strong>to</strong> coat the inside w<strong>it</strong>h a sheet of<br />
whisky. Standing the glass up, you will see the<br />
whisky running down the sides, pooling at the<br />
bot<strong>to</strong>m.<br />
As the whisky continues <strong>to</strong> pool, cover the<br />
opening of the glass w<strong>it</strong>h your palm for five<br />
seconds. Then lift the glass <strong>to</strong> your face. As you<br />
remove your hand from the <strong>to</strong>p of the snifter,<br />
put your nose in<strong>to</strong> the glass and smell deeply.<br />
Think about all the scents that you are<br />
20 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
picking up. Look for mint, dark chocolate,<br />
caramel, and vanilla. Molasses, cinnamon,<br />
nutmeg, and clove spice. Toasted wood, earth<br />
and cedar. The 32 primary smells that the nose<br />
can pick up helps you identify the elements<br />
and the style of whisky.<br />
These scents are there because whisky is<br />
a beautifully organic product made from the<br />
riches of the earth.<br />
Add a drop of water<br />
Water triggers a chemical reaction that opens<br />
up the dense whisky flavours as well as diluting<br />
the alcohol for less “burn”. Now nose again, as<br />
the bouquet will have changed somewhat.<br />
Taste<br />
Taste just a sip of the whisky while breathing<br />
<strong>it</strong> in and let <strong>it</strong> linger on your <strong>to</strong>ngue. Allow <strong>it</strong> <strong>to</strong><br />
coat your mouth like fresh mint. The flavours<br />
will last for moments <strong>to</strong> come. The <strong>to</strong>ngue tastes<br />
the primary flavours, informed by the scents<br />
that the nose identifies. Fru<strong>it</strong>iness, spiciness,<br />
dryness and sweetness are established.<br />
The <strong>to</strong>ngue also identifies the mouth feel or<br />
viscos<strong>it</strong>y, from light and delicate <strong>to</strong> full and<br />
heavy. This is the texture and smoothness of<br />
the whisky, which is an essential part of <strong>it</strong>s<br />
character.<br />
Look, sniff, taste and enjoy.
Donald Colville<br />
Global Scotch Brand Ambassador - Diageo.<br />
{ }<br />
Donald was born and brought<br />
up in Scotland’s his<strong>to</strong>ric whisky<br />
cap<strong>it</strong>al, Campbel<strong>to</strong>wn on the west<br />
coast of Scotland. Th ere the Colville<br />
family enjoyed deep roots in whisky<br />
distilling, mainly through the building<br />
and operating of Dalin<strong>to</strong>ber distillery,<br />
a supplier <strong>to</strong> the Johnnie Walker<br />
blends and once owned by Donald’s<br />
great-grandfather.<br />
Indeed, all Donald’s working life has been spent in the<br />
drinks industry in Scotland, helping him <strong>to</strong> acquire<br />
a wide knowledge of the spir<strong>it</strong>s category, both in<br />
Scotland and overseas. His first appointments were<br />
in management pos<strong>it</strong>ions in Greenock and Glasgow<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h the leading pub chain J. D. Wetherspoon, where<br />
he helped develop the malt category. In 2002 he<br />
returned <strong>to</strong> Campbel<strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> work for four years<br />
in Springbank for J & A M<strong>it</strong>chell where he in<strong>it</strong>ially<br />
managed inbound vis<strong>it</strong>s, tastings, public <strong>to</strong>urs and<br />
the retail and wholesale business for the local area<br />
before taking on some travel responsibil<strong>it</strong>ies for this<br />
celebrated distillery.<br />
A first exposure <strong>to</strong> the role of a Global Brand<br />
Ambassador came when Donald joined Burn Stewart<br />
Distillers, where continental Europe, the USA and<br />
South Africa were some of the terr<strong>it</strong>ories that Donald<br />
covered.<br />
Diageo recru<strong>it</strong>ed Donald in 2008 and after some<br />
experience in qual<strong>it</strong>y assessment, he was seconded <strong>to</strong> a<br />
sales function which made good use of his presentation<br />
22 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
abil<strong>it</strong>ies looking after <strong>to</strong>p on-trade<br />
accounts in Scotland, but this was all<br />
part of a bigger plan and he achieved<br />
his amb<strong>it</strong>ion when he was appointed<br />
as a Global Brand ambassador for<br />
Scotch Whisky in December 2010.<br />
Local whisky aficionados will<br />
be pleased <strong>to</strong> hear that Donald is<br />
flying out <strong>to</strong> South Africa for the<br />
Johannesburg leg of this year’s FNB<br />
Whisky Live Festival, taking place at<br />
the Sand<strong>to</strong>n Convention Centre from<br />
the 9th <strong>to</strong> the 11th November.
The Johnnie Walker stand at this<br />
year’s FNB Whisky Live Festival is<br />
wholly dedicated <strong>to</strong> the new bottle<br />
design for Johnnie Walker Blue<br />
Label, which is a commemoration<br />
of Alexander Walker’s remarkable<br />
Old Highland Whisky of 1867 and<br />
resembles the original 19th century<br />
bottle w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>s iconic square shape,<br />
<strong>blue</strong> glass and thick glass base.<br />
Festival attendees can meet<br />
Donald at the Johnnie Walker stand in<br />
person <strong>to</strong> learn about Johnnie Walker’s<br />
proud her<strong>it</strong>age of supreme blending,<br />
big flavours and timeless style that characterise this<br />
iconic brand.<br />
Donald will be conducting tastings w<strong>it</strong>h Johnnie<br />
Walker Red Label, the world’s number one selling<br />
blended scotch whisky and the pioneer blend of the<br />
Walker family; Johnnie Walker Black Label, the world’s<br />
number one selling deluxe blended scotch whisky; and<br />
of course, Johnnie Walker Blue Label, a whisky which is<br />
widely considered the modern standard for matur<strong>it</strong>y,<br />
smoothness and balance and is an epic achievement of<br />
rare craftsmanship and character.<br />
For more information about Donald and the Johnnie<br />
Walker stand at this year’s festival, please vis<strong>it</strong> https://<br />
www.facebook.com/JohnnieWalkerSouthAfrica<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
23
24 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
Johnnie Walker<br />
Double Black<br />
By: By Marsh Middle<strong>to</strong>n<br />
You should be familiar w<strong>it</strong>h Johnnie Walker Black<br />
Label - the world’s no.1 deluxe blended whisky. I am.<br />
What I love about Johnnie Walker Black Label is <strong>it</strong>s<br />
depth, richness and complex<strong>it</strong>y. Truly a benchmark<br />
whisky w<strong>it</strong>h the added bonus that there are some of<br />
those powerful west coast malts blended in harmony<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h the more subtle east coast flavours. The reason<br />
I mention this is because those powerful west coast<br />
malts are some of my favour<strong>it</strong>es out there. Now any<br />
whisky that endeavors <strong>to</strong> keep the style of Johnnie<br />
Walker Black Label and add more smokiness will<br />
quickly become my friend.<br />
Enter Johnnie Walker Double Black! It’s here! This<br />
whisky has graduated from duty-free and is one that<br />
you’ll want on your whisky shelf for various reasons.<br />
Over the last couple of years a peculiar flavour profile<br />
has been striking a cord w<strong>it</strong>h a growing number of<br />
whisky apprecia<strong>to</strong>rs. You may have tasted a whisky<br />
that you thought really smelt and tasted qu<strong>it</strong>e smoky.<br />
You were most probably right on the money! In the<br />
past there were not many people that liked this aroma<br />
and taste, but things are changing. If you are anything<br />
like me that smoky taste enchanted you and sent you<br />
on a journey of discovery.<br />
This peculiar smoky aroma and flavour comes from<br />
the kilning process when the maltings dry the barley<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h peat fires (peat is a type of compacted vegetation –<br />
almost coal-like but a lot less dense and w<strong>it</strong>h roots and<br />
vegetation that has decomposed over hundreds of years).<br />
When you <strong>make</strong> whisky from barley dried in this manner,<br />
you’ve got peaty whisky. And the west coast malts are of<br />
the more peaty/smoky types from Scotland.<br />
Johnnie Walker Double Black is a smokier, more<br />
intense version of Johnnie Walker Black Label. Those<br />
smoky malts used in this blend are<br />
the more powerful west coast malts<br />
as mentioned above. The distinctive<br />
rich Johnnie Walker flavours are still<br />
evident from similar malts chosen<br />
for the blend, aged in deep charred<br />
oak casks <strong>to</strong> create something qu<strong>it</strong>e<br />
unique.<br />
Part of trying <strong>to</strong> be a connoisseur<br />
is <strong>to</strong> appreciate a whisky for what <strong>it</strong><br />
is. Jim Beveridge, the master blender<br />
for Johnnie Walker, does have a knack<br />
of creating unique blends that still f<strong>it</strong><br />
w<strong>it</strong>hin the broader Johnnie Walker<br />
flavour profile. The perfect serve<br />
for Johnnie Walker Double Black<br />
demands a l<strong>it</strong>tle water <strong>to</strong> release the<br />
smoky flavours. Water in general<br />
opens up a whisky so that <strong>it</strong> is more<br />
approachable. I do still get the vanilla,<br />
butterscotch and rich, dried fru<strong>it</strong>s on<br />
the palate, and that pleasant intense<br />
rising smokiness. You’ll know this is<br />
a dram that you’re familiar w<strong>it</strong>h, just<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h a lot more intens<strong>it</strong>y. I also find<br />
this whisky <strong>to</strong> be a lot more vibrant,<br />
so well worth the purchase.<br />
It is not often that one gets the<br />
opportun<strong>it</strong>y <strong>to</strong> grow your Johnnie<br />
Walker collection w<strong>it</strong>h something this<br />
distinctive. It’s a lim<strong>it</strong>ed release w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
only 7200 cases available, so snap <strong>it</strong><br />
up. Apart from the impressive black<br />
bottle I just like the fact that <strong>it</strong> stands<br />
out as something new. Change is as<br />
good as a holiday.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
25
Laphroaig<br />
Distillery<br />
{ }<br />
Established in 1815, Laphroaig is<br />
the world’s best selling Islay malt whisky<br />
and is known <strong>to</strong> be the most richly<br />
fl avoured of all Scotch whiskies. Th e<br />
distillery still owns <strong>it</strong>s own peat moors<br />
and produces <strong>it</strong>s own maltings. Its<br />
whisky maturation warehouses directly<br />
face the sea, which contributes <strong>to</strong> the<br />
very characterful whisky <strong>it</strong> produces.<br />
26 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
The Laphroaig distillery (the name<br />
means “the beautiful hollow by the<br />
broad bay”) was established in 1815,<br />
by Alex and Donald Johns<strong>to</strong>n. The<br />
‘Johns<strong>to</strong>n’ brothers were actually<br />
McCabes, of the Clan Donald, who<br />
changed their names following the<br />
failed Jacob<strong>it</strong>e uprising, and settled on<br />
the Isle of Islay.<br />
Their descendants ran the<br />
distillery until 1887, when <strong>it</strong> passed <strong>to</strong><br />
the Hunter family. They in turn ran the<br />
distillery until 1954, when Ian Hunter<br />
(who had no children) died and left the<br />
distilley <strong>to</strong> one of his managers, Bessie<br />
Williamson, who earlier came <strong>to</strong> Islay<br />
<strong>to</strong> stay for three months but remained<br />
on Islay for more than fourty years.<br />
The distillery was sold <strong>to</strong> Long<br />
John International in the 1960’s, and<br />
subsequently became part of Allied<br />
Domecq. Allied Domecq was in turn
acquired i d bby FFortune t BBrands d iin 2005<br />
2005.<br />
Since 1994 Laphroaig has been<br />
the only whisky <strong>to</strong> carry the Royal<br />
Warrant of HRH, Prince Charles of<br />
Wales, which was awarded in person<br />
during a vis<strong>it</strong> <strong>to</strong> the distillery. As of<br />
2005, the standard 10 year old bottling<br />
was reduced in percentage from 43%<br />
<strong>to</strong> the worldwide standard of 40%.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
27
28 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
The water dispute<br />
In 1836 James and Andrew Gairdner set about<br />
building a rival distillery next <strong>to</strong> Laphroaig.<br />
They installed two experienced Clackmann<br />
distillers, James and Andrew Stein, <strong>to</strong> take<br />
charge. Donald Johns<strong>to</strong>n, owner of Laphroaig<br />
at the time, was deeply disturbed finding out<br />
that the new, Ardenistiel distillery, proposed<br />
<strong>to</strong> use the same watersource. Water that made<br />
a v<strong>it</strong>al contribution <strong>to</strong> Laphroaig’s unique<br />
character. Specially when Donald was about<br />
<strong>to</strong> expand his business leaving him w<strong>it</strong>h a <strong>to</strong>o<br />
small water supply. The dispute lasted almost 6<br />
years and ended abruptly when Andrew Stein<br />
fell ill w<strong>it</strong>h fever and died soon afterwards.<br />
His brother James s<strong>to</strong>pped distilling and<br />
moved <strong>to</strong> Port Ellen. In June the following year<br />
Donald himself died in a tragic accident at the<br />
Laphroaig distillery.<br />
Taste Laphroaig is considered one of the
most strongly flavored of all scotch<br />
whiskies, and is generally aged <strong>to</strong> 10<br />
years, although the 15 year old variety<br />
is not uncommon (the 30 and 40 year<br />
olds, however, are). Some people find<br />
that a drop of water enhances the<br />
peaty aroma of this whisky.<br />
In an attempt <strong>to</strong> re-create the<br />
taste of his<strong>to</strong>ric whiskies, Laphroaig<br />
carried out experiments. Recently<br />
the Laphroaig Quarter Cask has been<br />
introduced. By using smaller casks and<br />
by avoiding chill-filtering, the Quarter<br />
Cask Single Malt is supposed <strong>to</strong> taste<br />
like whisky which was distilled 100<br />
years ago.<br />
Friends of Laphroaig<br />
In 1994 the Friends of Laphroaig<br />
Club was established, members of<br />
which are granted a lifetime lease of<br />
one square foot (
Our Whisky Experts on<br />
Johnnie Walker Blue<br />
JONATHAN J<br />
MILES<br />
30 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
Jonathan has worked in the liquor industry in South Africa for<br />
36 years. He set up the Whisky Academy, a whisky education and<br />
training facil<strong>it</strong>y, which has grown <strong>to</strong> be a leading light in the whisky<br />
industry in South Arica. Jonathan has a passion for whisky and he<br />
runs training courses (Whisky one; Whisky Two and an Introducion<br />
<strong>to</strong> Whisky) and provides tastings and education <strong>to</strong> the liquor trade<br />
and consumers.<br />
Jonathan on Johnnie Walker Blue: The name Johnnie Walker conjures up all sorts of images of<br />
qual<strong>it</strong>y, especially<br />
whisky qual<strong>it</strong>y and the international image of a brand striding the globe. The beauty of the<br />
brand is that you can find <strong>it</strong> in bars across the world and you will enjoy the excellent qual<strong>it</strong>y very<br />
consistently, dram after dram. My favour<strong>it</strong>e has always been the Johnnie Walker Black Label w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
<strong>it</strong>s unique smooth, deep and complex character.<br />
However, every now and then one deserves a treat and <strong>it</strong> is on these occasions that one<br />
reaches for Johnnie Walker Blue Label. It’s the bottle I keep on an exclusive stand in my whisky<br />
bar and the one that is only opened when I am feeling generous and looking for a rare experience<br />
for myself or my guests. It is the ep<strong>it</strong>ome of the art of blending and the Master Distiller, Jim<br />
Beveridge, has access <strong>to</strong> some of the world’s most valuable and precious s<strong>to</strong>cks as he creates the<br />
Blue blend. Using exceptional young and old whiskies, he weaves a complex blend of the best<br />
Scotland has <strong>to</strong> offer <strong>to</strong> ensure that luxuriously smooth flavour that we find in the glass.<br />
I start by serving a generous dram in a tasting glass – I love <strong>to</strong> capture the rich, deep and<br />
complex aromas – the powerful west coast elements are beautifully balanced by the sweetness<br />
and maltiness of the Speyside and other Highland malts.<br />
On the palate the layers of flavor open up and the complex<strong>it</strong>y of the blend unfolds revealing<br />
smoke, pepper and spice along w<strong>it</strong>h a smooth and satisfying finish. A <strong>to</strong>uch of water opens the<br />
whisky even more as new aromas and flavours are released for your enjoyment. Expect also ripe<br />
fig, malt and light smoke mingling w<strong>it</strong>h the soft grain and again the gentle spicy finish.<br />
This is a dram <strong>to</strong> be savoured, not rushed. Take your time <strong>to</strong> identify the different flavours<br />
you pick up and let them tantalise your taste buds. It is a rare experience <strong>to</strong> be treasured as <strong>it</strong><br />
doesn’t come around <strong>to</strong>o often. If your host is in a really generous mood he may offer another<br />
dram – I usually accept graciously.
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
31
Our Whisky Experts on<br />
Johnnie Walker Blue<br />
MARSH M MIDDLETON<br />
32 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
Marsh is an avid whisky enthusiast. His quest for whisky<br />
knowledge commenced w<strong>it</strong>h a trip <strong>to</strong> the Isle of Islay off the<br />
West Coast of Scotland. He has interviewed many legends of<br />
the whisky industry, including Bill Lumsden , Dave Broom and<br />
Richard Paterson. He also hosts the annual Lexus Connoisseurs<br />
Experience at the FNB Whisky Live Festival.<br />
Marsh on Johnnie Walker Blue: “Johnnie Walker r Blue<br />
Label is the flagship in the House of Walker. W<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>s new and seriously iously<br />
impressive packaging <strong>it</strong> will most defin<strong>it</strong>ely draw your attention. This<br />
whisky means business. From the early 1990’s Johnnie Walker Blue Label<br />
has showcased what those late 19th century whisky blends were all<br />
about. Rich sweetness, somewhat peaty aromas w<strong>it</strong>h smooth, malty y<br />
flavours!<br />
There is what the ‘experts’ call a perfect serve for this whisky. It<br />
really is a multi-layered dram. Firstly you have <strong>to</strong> slow down. This<br />
approach needs <strong>to</strong> be one that savours and appreciates the nuances. .<br />
Clean your palate w<strong>it</strong>h some ice cold water. Then wa<strong>it</strong>… Take a<br />
generous sip <strong>to</strong> coat the mouth, keep <strong>it</strong> there for a while, and as the e<br />
liquid gently warms up on your palate you’ll know what I mean. Don’t t<br />
forget <strong>to</strong> swallow.<br />
You will notice the depth and layers of flavour this blend has <strong>to</strong> o<br />
offer. As the tasting notes indicate - there’s a rich and uniquely long g<br />
and satisfying finish of smoke, pepper, ending w<strong>it</strong>h a glorious <strong>to</strong>uch h<br />
of spice.<br />
Being part of the House of Walker and <strong>it</strong>s parent company, Johnnie e<br />
Walker Blue Label’s master blender – Jim Beveridge – probably has the e<br />
largest reserves of whisky in the world <strong>to</strong> choose from. This can only y<br />
add depth <strong>to</strong> a whisky. It is the blender’s art <strong>to</strong> create a whisky of this s<br />
caliber. It is one of the greatest whisky gifts one can give, and you can n<br />
count on <strong>it</strong> that <strong>it</strong> will last qu<strong>it</strong>e some time if savoured – thus keeping g<br />
you <strong>to</strong>p of mind. “
DAVE HUGHES<br />
Dave is a distiller by trade, wine<strong>make</strong>r, wine auctioneer,<br />
international wine and spir<strong>it</strong> judge, <strong>to</strong> mention but a <strong>few</strong> of Dave’s<br />
achievements. Dave has travelled the world <strong>to</strong> study wine and<br />
liquor production and judged in most of the world’s worthwhile<br />
wine and spir<strong>it</strong>s compet<strong>it</strong>ions – he has judged at IWSC since 1975<br />
and is still going strong.<br />
Dave on Johnnie Walker Blue:” Enticing nose w<strong>it</strong>h clever peating and<br />
decided smoke but obviously from well matured and old malt. Slow <strong>to</strong> start but eventually<br />
evolves <strong>to</strong> produce an incredible depth of character. Gorgeous fru<strong>it</strong> underlines the smoky<br />
peat and leads in<strong>to</strong> a deep, full but gently powerful mouth. Big, full volume mouth loaded<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h ripe figs and super rich grain. Some sparkling spice teases the tail.<br />
A great whisky experience where a blend can have the complex<strong>it</strong>y that many magnificent<br />
malts can’t achieve.<br />
Well worth the expense especially for the Single Malt Snobs !”<br />
STEVE ADAMS<br />
Careful selection of the most exceptional aged whiskies, some<br />
mature enough <strong>to</strong> have w<strong>it</strong>nessed mankind’s most memorable walk,<br />
have been brought <strong>to</strong>gether by Johnnie Walker’s master blender <strong>to</strong><br />
create a perfectly balanced yet complex, silky smooth Scotch whisky,<br />
<strong>to</strong> be relished by the most discerning palates. An intense golden hue,<br />
subtly spicy and delicate fru<strong>it</strong>y aromas lead <strong>to</strong> a remarkably velvety<br />
palate - rich yet mellow, full flavoured yet soft - followed by a warm,<br />
lingering finish.<br />
<strong>Very</strong> <strong>few</strong> of us will ever get <strong>to</strong> walk on the moon; some may be fortunate enough <strong>to</strong><br />
savour one of Scotland’s best accomplishments: Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Walk the<br />
Walk.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
33
17/2011 <strong>Makro</strong> DTP/CK 148 x 210 Valid from: 17/10/2011 - 31/12/2011<br />
Prices valid from Monday 17 Oc<strong>to</strong>ber <strong>to</strong> Saturday 31 December 2011. After this date please request pricing in-s<strong>to</strong>re.<br />
JAMES KING<br />
3 YO Blended<br />
Scotch Whisky<br />
(136688)<br />
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Speyside Single<br />
Malt 12 YO<br />
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in Gift Box<br />
(217210)<br />
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64951 x<br />
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<strong>to</strong> <strong>Makro</strong><br />
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Unless we state a specific lim<strong>it</strong>ation, <strong>Makro</strong> will attempt <strong>to</strong> have sufficient advertised s<strong>to</strong>ck available <strong>to</strong> meet consumers’ anticipated demands. If we still run out of s<strong>to</strong>ck, we will attempt <strong>to</strong> obtain the s<strong>to</strong>ck or we will offer you a<br />
reasonable alternative. <strong>Makro</strong> takes utmost care <strong>to</strong> ensure that all advertisements are correct. If a mistake occurs or incomplete information is printed, we will display a notice in-s<strong>to</strong>re w<strong>it</strong>h all the correct details.<br />
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Grain whisky has<br />
By: Dave Hughes<br />
All whisky is made from grain of some kind or another<br />
but <strong>it</strong> seems that in modern times the malted versions,<br />
made from barley, have become very fashionable. Yet<br />
malt whisky <strong>make</strong>s up less than 15% of all whiskies<br />
made. The rest are, fundamentally, grain whiskies.<br />
Made from all manner of grain. Barley, wheat, rye,<br />
maize (corn), rice, sorghum and others. Some whiskies<br />
made from grains have gained their own ident<strong>it</strong>ies like<br />
Bourbon and Tennessee which are both made from<br />
predominantly maize but can include other grains.<br />
Rye whisky is obviously made from rye although in the<br />
USA <strong>it</strong> need only be 51 % rye <strong>to</strong> qualify <strong>to</strong> be called Rye<br />
whisky. Many whiskies containing spir<strong>it</strong>s made from<br />
wheat or maize seldom mention the type of grain and<br />
simply say “grain”.<br />
The great Scotch blended whiskies that are the<br />
36 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
whiskies that most people p p seem <strong>to</strong><br />
know even if they ey are not drinkers<br />
because of the great advertising<br />
promotions and ads contained in the<br />
glossy magazines s and and daily press. press. press In<br />
In<br />
South Africa the likes llikes<br />
of J & B, Bells,<br />
Johnnie Walker, Grants and Famous<br />
Grouse are blends s of malt whisky whisky w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
a greater proportion tiion<br />
of grain whisky.<br />
Malt whiskies s are made in a<br />
batch process and nnd<br />
distilled<br />
in “pot stills”. The e malting<br />
process w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>’s s drying<br />
done by peat will iill<br />
give<br />
the resultant malt<br />
much greater flavour
<strong>it</strong>s own attraction<br />
which is passed on<strong>to</strong> the whisky than<br />
lesser character grains used in the<br />
production of continuously distilled<br />
grain whiskies.<br />
Continuous stills and sometimes<br />
called “patent” stills or Coffey stills.<br />
Coffey and Stein were the men who<br />
developed the process of continuous<br />
distillation in Scotland. Often<br />
continuous stills can be referred <strong>to</strong> by<br />
their “brand” name.<br />
The wash distilled from a mixture<br />
of malted barley and other unmalted<br />
cereals. The malted portion contains<br />
enzymes that will convert the starch<br />
in the grain <strong>to</strong> fermentable sugar. The<br />
milled grain is made in<strong>to</strong> a sugary<br />
liquid, called wort where the enzymes<br />
contained in the small malted portion<br />
then convert all the starch in<strong>to</strong> sugar<br />
which can be fermented <strong>to</strong> give an<br />
alcoholic liquid called wort. This<br />
then is fed in<strong>to</strong> the continuous stills.<br />
The resultant spir<strong>it</strong> p is not as full of<br />
flavour flavour as the spir<strong>it</strong> made form barley<br />
that has all undergone underg malting then<br />
drying w<strong>it</strong>h the use us of peat smoke.<br />
However, However grain whiskies<br />
have<br />
their own sought<br />
after<br />
character and can<br />
often be very elegant<br />
and delightful. As<br />
mentioned, men outside<br />
of Scotland, most<br />
whiskies whisk are grain<br />
whisk whiskies.<br />
Wi W<strong>it</strong>hin Scotland<br />
not all<br />
grain whisky is<br />
destined<br />
for blending.<br />
There are a number of grain whiskies that are bottled<br />
under their own character and proudly designated as<br />
grain whisky. Some are aged for a considerable time<br />
and are sought after in their own right.<br />
In Scotland there are about 100 malt distilleries<br />
while there are only seven grain distilleries. The malt<br />
distilleries are all pot still and produce relatively small<br />
quant<strong>it</strong>ies of highly individual whiskies.<br />
The big grain distilleries produce mega volumes of<br />
grain distillate which is of lesser character but all the<br />
same has the distinct character of <strong>it</strong>’s own distillery.<br />
These distillates still have <strong>to</strong> age a minimum of three<br />
years before they can be legally termed whisky. Most<br />
are aged in used Bourbon barrels which give the<br />
vanilla characters and perhaps a slight sweetness<br />
while some sherry barrels are used <strong>to</strong> extend the range<br />
of characters in<strong>to</strong> a dried fru<strong>it</strong> richness. Typically these<br />
barrels are “used” about three <strong>to</strong> four times . Each use<br />
is referred <strong>to</strong> as “fill”. Each fill will obviously have a<br />
less and less effect on the spir<strong>it</strong> resulting in milder and<br />
milder whiskies.<br />
It so happens that most of these distilleries are<br />
located in the Lowlands. When I was a lad there were<br />
a couple more but half a dozen have been closed in the<br />
past 20 or so years. Perhaps one of the most famous<br />
Port Dundas was closed only in 2010.<br />
The most recently commissioned grain distillery is<br />
Starlaw opened in 2010 and owned by La Martiniquaise.<br />
The biggest liquor company, Diageo owns Lomond<br />
and Cameron Bridge and have a joint venture w<strong>it</strong>h the<br />
Edring<strong>to</strong>n Group in North Br<strong>it</strong>ish. Whyte and Mackay<br />
own Invergordon and Chivas (Pernod Ricard) own<br />
Strathclyde. William Grant own Girvan<br />
As mentioned, most Scottish grain whisky will<br />
go in<strong>to</strong> the famous blends making an invaluable<br />
contribution <strong>to</strong> the blend.<br />
Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally maize was the preferred grain as not only<br />
was <strong>it</strong> the most inexpensive grain, <strong>it</strong> offered the highest<br />
level of starch which meant a higher yield of alcohol.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
37
Nowadays there has been a great change over <strong>to</strong> wheat<br />
because of the European Union subsidies which made<br />
wheat available at a lower price. There are many types or<br />
strains of wheat w<strong>it</strong>h bakers and pasta <strong>make</strong>rs preferring<br />
hard grains. Distillers prefer slightly softer grain as <strong>it</strong><br />
contains more starch so giving a better alcoholic yield.<br />
Annual grain crops are effected by the weather resulting<br />
in variable starch levels which obviously will mean fine<br />
tuning <strong>to</strong> the overall production. Maize tends <strong>to</strong> be more<br />
uniform year by year and less affected by weather than<br />
wheat and so some distillers still prefer maize. However,<br />
<strong>it</strong> is considered that whatever the source of the grain <strong>it</strong><br />
has l<strong>it</strong>tle impact on the overall result. What has a greater<br />
impact is how the distillation is carried out. The distiller<br />
can determine whether <strong>to</strong> produce a spir<strong>it</strong> that is richer<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h greater character or lighter which is more mild.<br />
Then of course the aging in oak has a great influence on<br />
the end product.<br />
In the continuous distillation process the end spir<strong>it</strong><br />
is collected at about 94 % alcohol w<strong>it</strong>h the Br<strong>it</strong>ish law<br />
stating <strong>it</strong> must be collected at below 94,8 %. Whereas<br />
38 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
from a pot still the spir<strong>it</strong> is around<br />
about 70 % w<strong>it</strong>h the lower strength<br />
collecting a far broader aromatic and<br />
flavour profile.<br />
Continuous distilleries have lent<br />
themselves <strong>to</strong> be highly aided by<br />
computerization although the ever<br />
fa<strong>it</strong>hful stillman is still required (no<br />
pun intended).<br />
There might not be many grain<br />
distilleries but each produces <strong>it</strong>’s own<br />
identifiable character..<br />
When <strong>it</strong> comes <strong>to</strong> Scotch Grain<br />
Whiskies look out for bottlings from<br />
the great distilleries under the private<br />
bottlings of Duncan Taylor and the<br />
specific combinations of Compass Box<br />
under the name Hedonism. A couple<br />
of distilleries bottle “Single Grains”<br />
such as Cameron Bridge who use the<br />
name “Cameron Brig”.
A Whisky for Today<br />
www.smokehead.co.uk<br />
Smokehead encourages responsible drinking<br />
Enjoy responsibly, not for sale <strong>to</strong> persons under the age of 18
Old-school spir<strong>it</strong>s<br />
{ }<br />
From computerized stills and bar-coded casks <strong>to</strong> mechanized bottling<br />
lines, many spir<strong>it</strong>s brands have embraced cutting-edge technology.<br />
But there are a <strong>few</strong> holdouts around the world that continue <strong>to</strong><br />
use old-fashioned techniques. Here are some of our favour<strong>it</strong>es.<br />
By: Jacques Cortez: Contribu<strong>to</strong>r <strong>to</strong> Liquor.com<br />
FLOOR-MALTING:<br />
FLOOR MALTING<br />
The first step in producing Scotch is <strong>to</strong> convert the barley’s starch content in<strong>to</strong> more desirable sugar<br />
by malting <strong>it</strong>. To save time, most distillers buy already-malted barley, but a handful of brands—The<br />
Balvenie, Bowmore, Highland Park and Laphroaig—still carry on the trad<strong>it</strong>ional floor-malting process<br />
(pictured above). While <strong>it</strong>’s back-breaking work, <strong>it</strong> preserves a piece of whisky his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
40 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
Fast facts<br />
THE BALVENIE<br />
• The Balvenie is the only distillery in the<br />
ScottishHighlands <strong>to</strong> still floor malt <strong>it</strong>s barley.<br />
• Master Distiller David Stewart has been making<br />
whisky at William Grant for 47 years.<br />
• If you’re vis<strong>it</strong>ing The Balvenie also s<strong>to</strong>p by <strong>it</strong>s sister<br />
brand Glenfiddich. The two distilleries are right<br />
next <strong>to</strong> each other.<br />
HIGHLAND PARK<br />
BOWMORE<br />
• While the distillery has a long his<strong>to</strong>ry, the origins of the name Bowmore<br />
are unknown.<br />
• In 1991, one of the brand’s warehouses was turned in<strong>to</strong> a commun<strong>it</strong>y<br />
swimming pool, which is heated w<strong>it</strong>h the distillery’s recycled hot water.<br />
•<br />
A rare bottle of 1850 Bowmore became the most expensive Scotch in the<br />
world when <strong>it</strong> sold at auction for £29,400 pounds in September 2007.<br />
• Highland Park’s distillery is located in the northern<br />
tip of Scotland. The weather is consistently cool and<br />
breezy all year round.<br />
• The brand’s webs<strong>it</strong>e features a food-pairing section<br />
and includes six recipes from Master Chef Sue<br />
Lawrence.<br />
LAPHROAIG<br />
•<br />
The Laphroaig distillery was originally<br />
started as a way <strong>to</strong> use excess barley<br />
grown for cattle. Distilling whisky quickly<br />
became more prof<strong>it</strong>able than farming.<br />
•<br />
Prince Charles celebrated his 60th birthday<br />
at the Laphroaig distillery in 2008.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
41
17/2011 <strong>Makro</strong> DTP/CK 148 x 210 Valid from: 17/10/2011 - 31/12/2011<br />
Prices valid from Monday 17 Oc<strong>to</strong>ber<br />
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After this date please request pricing in-s<strong>to</strong>re.<br />
Buried in Antarctic ice by Shackle<strong>to</strong>n.<br />
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Which foods pair<br />
best w<strong>it</strong>h whisky?<br />
By: Fiona Beckett<br />
{ }<br />
Here are some suggestions, divided up by whisky style, w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
some add<strong>it</strong>ional input from whisky expert Dave Broom.<br />
Needless <strong>to</strong> say the better and, generally, older the<br />
whisky the more intriguing and complex the pairing.<br />
Light fragrant whiskies w<strong>it</strong>h a <strong>to</strong>uch of sweetness -<br />
e.g. Dalwhinnie, Glenkinchie<br />
• Sushi<br />
• Smoked salmon (especially wild salmon and other delicate smokes)<br />
• Dressed crab Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup<br />
• Cock-a-leekie (clear chicken and leek soup)<br />
• Parsnip soup<br />
• Kedgeree Bread and butter pudding<br />
• Cranachan (whipped cream and whisky w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>to</strong>asted oatmeal and<br />
raspberries)<br />
Goats cheeses and cream cheeses<br />
Medium bodied whiskies w<strong>it</strong>h some peat infl uence e.g. Bruichladdich<br />
• Smoked mackerel<br />
• Smoked mussels<br />
• Smoked oysters Smoked duck<br />
• Smoked venison<br />
• Duck or chicken liver paté<br />
• Seared scallops and bacon<br />
• Roast or braised pheasant<br />
• Pheasant or guinea fowl w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />
creamy wild mushroom sauce<br />
44 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
Full-bodied rich whiskies aged in sherry casks or European oak<br />
- e.g Th e Macallan<br />
• Seared or grilled steak<br />
• Char siu pork<br />
• Roast venison especially w<strong>it</strong>h caramelised/<br />
roast root vegetables<br />
• Rich fru<strong>it</strong> cakes e.g. Christmas cake<br />
• Christmas pudding<br />
• Mince pies<br />
• Pecan pie<br />
• Sticky <strong>to</strong>ffee pudding<br />
• Gingerbread<br />
• Dark chocolate and ginger biscu<strong>it</strong>s<br />
• Dark chocolate brownies<br />
• Mature cheddar<br />
• Washed-rind cheeses<br />
Strong, peaty whiskies e.g. Lagavulin, Talisker<br />
I’m cautious about these because of their<br />
powerful flavours but Dave urges you <strong>to</strong><br />
be bold! He advocates scallops and bacon<br />
and dark chocolate (not on the same<br />
plate, obviously) w<strong>it</strong>h a peaty whisky for<br />
example Anchovy-based spreads or dips.<br />
• Hot-smoked salmon<br />
• Smoked chicken<br />
• Mature farmhouse cheddar<br />
• Strong <strong>blue</strong> cheeses, especially Roquefort<br />
Bear in mind that some whiskies, especially<br />
cask-strength ones, may need a splash of<br />
water <strong>to</strong> work w<strong>it</strong>h food .<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
45
Whisky’s Perfect Match<br />
Here is what one of the Worl’d Leading author<strong>it</strong>ies<br />
has <strong>to</strong> say about Whisky & Food Pairing<br />
Forget ice or soda; have you tried pairing Scotch w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
food? It can work surprisingly well, and so-called<br />
“whisky dinners” are becoming increasingly popular<br />
in Europe and Asia. Just this year alone, I’ve led<br />
dozens of them in twenty countries. I particularly<br />
enjoy matching single malts w<strong>it</strong>h appetizers, small<br />
plates like tapas or meze, and desserts. This can<br />
showcase unexpected characteristics in a spir<strong>it</strong><br />
and invariably leads <strong>to</strong> a lively discussion. (As for<br />
entrees, they’re often <strong>to</strong>o complex, and, frankly, I<br />
think wine is better su<strong>it</strong>ed as a companion <strong>to</strong> many<br />
Charles MacLean, Master of the Quaich and James Beard Award winner, is the author of<br />
ten books on Scotch, including the Whiskypedia.<br />
46 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
By: Charles Maclean<br />
dishes.) The general idea is that the<br />
cuisine and the whisky should e<strong>it</strong>her<br />
complement or contrast w<strong>it</strong>h each<br />
other. Since every Scotch bottling<br />
has <strong>it</strong>s own unique flavor profile, I<br />
suggest keeping the food relatively<br />
simple and based on qual<strong>it</strong>y<br />
ingredients, which will allow the<br />
liquor <strong>to</strong> really shine through. Here<br />
are some of my favor<strong>it</strong>e pairings.<br />
Bon appet<strong>it</strong>!
RAW OYSTERS<br />
“ANOINTED” WITH A<br />
SPLASH OF TALISKER<br />
10-YEAR-OLD:<br />
Th Thee light smokiness and<br />
mar<strong>it</strong>ime character of the whisky<br />
complements the mollusk, and <strong>it</strong><br />
fi nishes w<strong>it</strong>h a peppery kick.<br />
SHRIMP WITH A GLASS<br />
OF OLD PULTENEY<br />
12-YEAR-OLD:<br />
Th Thesweet e sweet saltiness of “Th “The e<br />
Manzanilla of the North”<br />
enhances the sweetness of<br />
the shellfi sh.<br />
SMOKED SALMON WITH<br />
A DRAM OF ARDBERG<br />
10 YEARS OLD:<br />
Some think the smokiness of the<br />
whisky is <strong>to</strong>o dominant, but I<br />
say <strong>it</strong> works well w<strong>it</strong>h Scotland’s<br />
other famous delicacy.<br />
CCUSTARD<br />
TART AND<br />
A<br />
SHOT OF FROZEN<br />
DDALWHINNIE<br />
15-YEAR-<br />
OOLD:<br />
Th e light vanilla and honey notes<br />
in the whisky, <strong>to</strong>gether w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>it</strong>s<br />
smooth sm texture, complement the<br />
dessert. de<br />
RRICH<br />
FRUITCAKE<br />
WWITH<br />
GLENFARCLAS<br />
115-YEAR-OLD<br />
(OR ANY<br />
OOTHER<br />
SHERRY-WOOD-<br />
MMATURED<br />
MALT):<br />
Th e dried fru<strong>it</strong>s and mouth-drying<br />
tannins ta are balanced by the<br />
unctuous un sweetness of the cake.<br />
RROQUEFORT<br />
CHEESE<br />
WWITH<br />
LAGAVULIN<br />
116-YEAR-OLD:<br />
Massive M fl avors, which cancel each<br />
other ot out—truly a marriage made<br />
in Heaven.<br />
DDARK<br />
CHOCOLATE,<br />
SSTRONG<br />
BLACK COFFEE<br />
AAND<br />
A GOOD CIGAR<br />
WWITH<br />
THE DALMORE<br />
GGRAN<br />
RESERVA:<br />
Nibble, N sip coff ee, sip whisky, puff<br />
cigar. ci Repeat. Bliss!<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
47
Brie & pear soup<br />
{ }<br />
According <strong>to</strong> Ralph Waldo<br />
Emerson, “there are only ten<br />
minutes in the life of a pear<br />
when <strong>it</strong> is perfect <strong>to</strong> eat.”<br />
Luckily, this soup is perfect<br />
anytime. Make sure the<br />
Brie is also ripe, preferably a<br />
double-crème.<br />
ingredients<br />
• 2 large ripe pears<br />
• 2 cups homemade chicken broth<br />
• 240g . double-cream Brie cheese.<br />
preparation method<br />
• Peel the pears. Cut them in thick slices, removing the<br />
seeds. Put the chicken broth and pears in a large pot<br />
and simmer 10 <strong>to</strong> 15 minutes, until the pears are<br />
very soft.<br />
• Transfer the pears and broth <strong>to</strong> a food processor<br />
and process until very smooth. Return <strong>to</strong> the pot and<br />
simmer.<br />
• Trim the rind from the brie and cut the cheese in<strong>to</strong><br />
small pieces.<br />
• Slowly add the cheese and stir w<strong>it</strong>h a wooden spoon<br />
until melted. The soup should be creamy and smooth.<br />
Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Highland Park Scotch hWhisky h k<br />
The 12 Years Old is optimal. The Scotch’s <strong>to</strong>uches of smoke and peat round out the savoury notes of the<br />
Brie while heather and honey emphasise the sweetness of the pear. The complex<strong>it</strong>y of the combination is<br />
startling given the simplic<strong>it</strong>y of the dish.<br />
48 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
SERVES<br />
4/5<br />
49
Whisky and<br />
chilli tiger prawns<br />
{ }<br />
Th is is best served as<br />
a starter. Sucking the<br />
sweet sauce off the juicy<br />
crustaceans is an experience<br />
<strong>to</strong> be savoured, never hurried.<br />
Shelled and unshelled prawns<br />
are both fi ne <strong>to</strong> use. Serve<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h a green salad and hunks<br />
of crusty bread.<br />
preparation method<br />
50 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
ingredients<br />
• 2 limes, 1 juice and zest, 1 juice<br />
only<br />
• 90ml whisky<br />
• 180 soft light brown sugar<br />
• 20 raw tiger prawns, peeled,<br />
deveined<br />
• 1 red chilli, seeds removed,<br />
finely chopped<br />
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil<br />
• Preheat the oven <strong>to</strong> 200 o C.<br />
• Heat the lime juice, whisky and sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring gently, until the<br />
sugar has dissolved. Once the sugar has all dissolved, s<strong>to</strong>p stirring, turn up the heat and boil for 5–7<br />
minutes, or until the mixture becomes syrupy and thickens. To tell if <strong>it</strong> is ready, dip a wooden spoon<br />
in the mixture and tap off the excess – some glaze should still stick <strong>to</strong> the spoon, but <strong>it</strong> will not be as<br />
thick as honey. (Sometimes the whisky catches alight and you will see a <strong>blue</strong>-orange flame coming<br />
from the pan. Just take <strong>it</strong> off the heat and the whisky will burn <strong>it</strong>self out. )<br />
• Stir in the finely grated lime zest, then remove the pan from the heat and set aside.<br />
• Put the prawns in a shallow ovenproof dish and sprinkle over the chilli. Brush the prawns w<strong>it</strong>h the<br />
oil and then w<strong>it</strong>h the glaze. Bake in the oven for 10–15 minutes, or until the prawns turn opaque.<br />
Remove from the oven and brush w<strong>it</strong>h more glaze, reserving any extra glaze for dipping, and set<br />
aside <strong>to</strong> cool slightly before serving.<br />
Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Macallan’s Whisky<br />
Macallan’s flagship line is aged exclusively in used sherry casks; the flavours this imparts will blend<br />
well w<strong>it</strong>h the chilli and lime juice in the recipe. The prawns are rich enough <strong>to</strong> balance the Scotch more<br />
generally.
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
51
Tuna tartare on avo cream<br />
ingredients<br />
Tuna<br />
• 700 g tuna<br />
Avocado cream<br />
• 3 avocados<br />
• 1/2 tsp. lemon juice<br />
• Salt and pepper<br />
Tartare dressing<br />
• zest of 1 lime<br />
• 1 shallot<br />
• 1/2 bunch chives<br />
• 1 tbsp. <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> concentrate<br />
• 1/2 tsp. Tabasco sauce<br />
• 200 ml (3/4 cup) wh<strong>it</strong>e wine<br />
• A small sprig of thyme<br />
• 1 tbsp. mayonnaise<br />
• 100 ml (6 tbsp.) olive oil<br />
• 8 grindings of fresh pepper<br />
• 8 grindings of fresh coriander<br />
• Salt and pepper<br />
Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Macallan Whisky<br />
For Macallan, Tuna Tartare <strong>make</strong>s a great variation on the whisky and raw fish theme. It’s a head-<strong>to</strong>head<br />
encounter between two rich products. What ties the two <strong>to</strong>gether is the nutty notes in the Scotch<br />
– the 18 Years Old may be the best match in this respect – and the sesame seeds, soy sauce, and honey.<br />
52 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
preparation method<br />
Tuna<br />
• Cut some bands of tuna 5 mm thick.<br />
• Using a size-45 round cutter, cut out 25 rounds.<br />
• Cut the remaining tuna in<strong>to</strong> brunoise, i.e., very small<br />
dice. Once the tuna has been cut up, set <strong>it</strong> aside in the<br />
refrigera<strong>to</strong>r.<br />
Avocado cream:<br />
• Halve the avocados; remove the p<strong>it</strong>s and peel.<br />
• Blend the avocado flesh w<strong>it</strong>h salt, pepper and 1/2 tsp.<br />
lemon juice.<br />
• Scoop back in<strong>to</strong> avo skins.<br />
Tartare dressing<br />
• Chop the shallot and chives.<br />
• Take a bowl and set <strong>it</strong> over another bowl filled w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
crushed ice.<br />
• Add the mayonnaise, 100 ml olive oil, <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong><br />
concentrate, Tabasco, chopped chives, freshly-ground<br />
pepper, coriander, lime zest, salt and pepper. Whisk.<br />
• Incorporate the finely diced tuna w<strong>it</strong>h a fork. Taste and<br />
adjust the seasoning w<strong>it</strong>h salt and pepper if necessary.<br />
Preparing the tartare<br />
• Place the tartare carefully on<strong>to</strong>p of on the avo cream
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
SERVES<br />
4<br />
53
Lamb Cutlets w<strong>it</strong>h Coff ee-Chocolate<br />
Sauce and Garlic Purée w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
Aromatic Vegetables<br />
ingredients<br />
• 2 racks lamb, six ribs each<br />
• 4 Tbs <strong>blue</strong>berry<br />
preserves<br />
• 1 Tbs Dijon mustard<br />
(available in specialty and<br />
gourmet markets)<br />
• 8 wh<strong>it</strong>e grapes<br />
• ¾cup lamb s<strong>to</strong>ck, reduced<br />
preparation method<br />
54 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
• 1 strong espresso<br />
• ¼ tsp melted chocolate<br />
• 25g butter<br />
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled,<br />
halved and degermed<br />
• 1 thyme sprig<br />
• 1 rosemary sprig<br />
• 1 bay leaf<br />
Place the garlic cloves in aluminium foil w<strong>it</strong>h the<br />
aromatic herbs (thyme, bay leaf and rosemary),<br />
the olive oil and water. Wrap and cook in the<br />
oven for 3 hours at 180°F. When done, crush<br />
the garlic w<strong>it</strong>h a fork and thin w<strong>it</strong>h the cream.<br />
Season w<strong>it</strong>h salt and pepper <strong>to</strong> taste.<br />
Remove excess meat from the <strong>to</strong>p of the<br />
lamb chops, leaving the bones very clean.<br />
Peel the grapes, cut them in half vertically<br />
and seed them. Reduce the lamb s<strong>to</strong>ck, add the<br />
espresso and chocolate, whisk the butter in<strong>to</strong><br />
the sauce and add salt and pepper and half of the<br />
ground fennel seeds.<br />
Brown the racks of lamb and then baste w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
the candied <strong>blue</strong>berries and mustard. Cook the<br />
• 2 Tbs olive oil<br />
• 2 Tbs water<br />
• 90ml heavy cream<br />
• 10 fennel seeds, (black<br />
cumin)<br />
• Skin of one eggplant<br />
• Salt and pepper <strong>to</strong> taste<br />
racks of lamb for 5 minutes at 290 o C<br />
On a plate, line a ring mold w<strong>it</strong>h eggplant<br />
skin, fill w<strong>it</strong>h the garlic purée and then the triple<br />
lamb chop.<br />
To serve, sauce the plate and add the grapes.<br />
On the rim of the plate sprinkle the rest of the<br />
fennel seeds and the ground coffee.<br />
Along w<strong>it</strong>h meat, Speyside and Highland<br />
malts often pair well w<strong>it</strong>h chocolate. Put this<br />
<strong>to</strong> good use w<strong>it</strong>h Guy Martin’s recipe for Lamb<br />
Chops w<strong>it</strong>h Coffee-Chocolate Sauce and Garlic<br />
Purée w<strong>it</strong>h Aromatic Vegetables. The dark, rich<br />
espresso and chocolate flavours will match w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
similar flavors in the Scotch, just as the <strong>blue</strong>berry<br />
preserves bring some life <strong>to</strong> the Scotch’s dried<br />
fru<strong>it</strong> flavours. The Macallan Cask Strength <strong>make</strong>s<br />
the best pairing in these regards. The Scotch, in<br />
turn, also has some spice <strong>to</strong> offer up alongside<br />
the aromatic accompaniments in the dish.
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
SERVES<br />
4<br />
55
Honey & Whisky ice-cream<br />
SERVES<br />
4<br />
ingredients<br />
• 300 ml double cream<br />
• 60 ml whisky<br />
• 60 ml liquid honey<br />
• 4 large egg yolks<br />
Serve w<strong>it</strong>h Glenlivet<br />
15 Year Old.<br />
The round, sweet, velvety taste of<br />
the whisky integrates well w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
the freshness of the ice-cream and<br />
compliments the honey in this dessert.<br />
56 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
preparation method<br />
• Whip the cream until <strong>it</strong> is thick adding the whisky<br />
gradually.<br />
• Put the honey in a small pan and heat <strong>it</strong>.<br />
• At the same time beat the yolks in a bowl.<br />
• Pour the hot honey in<strong>to</strong> the bowl containing the yolks<br />
and carry on beating the mixture until <strong>it</strong>’s pale and<br />
thick.<br />
• Gently fold in the cream and whisky mixture.<br />
• Put the mixture in a freezerproof container and freeze<br />
for three hours minimum.<br />
• Serve scoops, garnish w<strong>it</strong>h chopped walnuts and mint<br />
leaves.
Hot-spiced Bourbon Balls<br />
ingredients<br />
• .25 cup Bourbon<br />
• 2 tbsp Sorghum syrup, cane<br />
syrup, molasses or honey<br />
• 1.25 cups Powdered sugar,<br />
divided<br />
• 2 tbsp Cocoa powder<br />
• .5 tsp Cayenne pepper<br />
(optional)<br />
• .25 tsp Ground mace<br />
• .25 tsp Ground cinnamon<br />
• .5 tsp Salt<br />
• 10 oz Vanilla wafers (about 60)<br />
• 1 cup Coarsely chopped pecans<br />
preparation method<br />
In a small bowl, whisk <strong>to</strong>gether the bourbon and sorghum<br />
syrup until well combined. In a large bowl, sift <strong>to</strong>gether<br />
1 cup of the powdered sugar w<strong>it</strong>h the cocoa powder,<br />
cayenne, mace, cinnamon and salt. Using a wooden spoon<br />
or rubber spatula, stir in the bourbon mixture until a<br />
smooth, glossy paste forms. In a food processor, pulse<br />
the vanilla wafers in<strong>to</strong> fine crumbs, about 10 (5-second)<br />
pulses. Add the wafer crumbs and pecans <strong>to</strong> the bourbon<br />
mixture and stir until consistently doughy and workable,<br />
about 2 minutes. Roll the dough in<strong>to</strong> 1-inch balls, roll<br />
each ball in the remaining .25 cup powdered sugar, and<br />
place on a sheet of waxed paper. S<strong>to</strong>re in the refrigera<strong>to</strong>r<br />
in a container w<strong>it</strong>h a tight-f<strong>it</strong>ting lid, w<strong>it</strong>h a sheet of waxed<br />
paper between layers, for up <strong>to</strong> 4 days.<br />
Serve w<strong>it</strong>h a bourbon<br />
The fru<strong>it</strong>iness of a bourbon balances the hot and spicy ngredients in the Bourbon Balls.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
57
Cocktails<br />
Old Fashioned Black Ship<br />
ingredients:<br />
i di<br />
1 sugar cube (or .5 tsp granulated sugar)<br />
2-3 dashes Angostura B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />
Water or club soda<br />
60ml bourbon<br />
method:<br />
In an old fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, b<strong>it</strong>ters<br />
and a splash of water or club soda. Rotate the glass<br />
<strong>to</strong> coat the inside w<strong>it</strong>h the sugar mixture and add<br />
large ice cubes. Add the bourbon and garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />
Maraschino cherry and an orange wedge.<br />
Garnish: Maraschino cherry and orange wedge<br />
Glass: Old fashioned<br />
58 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
ingredients:<br />
45ml whisky<br />
30ml pomegranate juice<br />
7.5ml port<br />
1 tsp lemon juice<br />
method:<br />
Shake all the ingredients in a cocktail<br />
shaker w<strong>it</strong>h ice. Strain in<strong>to</strong> a chilled<br />
Martini glass and garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a lemon<br />
peel.<br />
Garnish: Lemon peel<br />
Glass: Martini
Bourbon Bloody Mary<br />
Kentucky Buck ingredients:<br />
45ml bourbon<br />
2 dashes celery salt<br />
2 dashes hot sauce<br />
2 dashes worcestershire sauce<br />
1 teaspoon wasabi<br />
Toma<strong>to</strong> juice<br />
ingredients:<br />
i di t<br />
45ml Bourbon<br />
dash Triple Sec<br />
splash orange juice<br />
splash cranberry juice<br />
splash simple syrup (one part sugar,<br />
one part water)<br />
method:<br />
Add all the ingredients <strong>to</strong> a shaker<br />
and fill w<strong>it</strong>h ice. Shake well. Strain<br />
in<strong>to</strong> a Collins glass filled w<strong>it</strong>h fresh ice.<br />
Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a lemon wheel.<br />
Garnish: Lemon wheel<br />
Glass: Collins<br />
method:<br />
Rim a pint glass w<strong>it</strong>h lime juice and celery salt. Then<br />
fill <strong>it</strong> w<strong>it</strong>h ice and add Basil Hayden’s Bourbon, celery<br />
salt, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and wasabi.<br />
Fill the remainder of the glass w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> juice. Stir<br />
well. Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h a celery stalk, lime wedge and<br />
<strong>blue</strong> cheese stuffed olives.<br />
Garnish: Celery stalk, lime wedge and <strong>blue</strong> cheese<br />
stuffed olives<br />
Glass: Pint<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
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Cocktails<br />
Mint Julep 81 Old Fashioned<br />
ingredients:<br />
7.5g raw sugar syrup (one part raw sugar, one part<br />
water)<br />
8 mint leaves<br />
60ml bourbon<br />
method:<br />
In a Julep cup, lightly muddle the mint and syrup.<br />
Add the bourbon and pack tightly w<strong>it</strong>h crushed ice.<br />
Stir until the cup is frosted on the outside. Top w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
more crushed ice <strong>to</strong> form an ice dome and garnish<br />
Garnish: Mint sprig<br />
Glass: Julep<br />
60 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
ingredients:<br />
1 tsp simple syrup (one part sugar, one<br />
part water)<br />
60ml bourbon<br />
2 dashes Angostura B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />
1 dash Orange B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />
method:<br />
Add all the ingredients <strong>to</strong> a mixing glass<br />
and fill w<strong>it</strong>h ice. Stir, and strain in<strong>to</strong> an<br />
Old Fashioned glass filled w<strong>it</strong>h fresh ice.<br />
Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h lemon and orange twists.<br />
Garnish: Lemon and orange twists<br />
Glass: Old Fashioned
1870 Sour<br />
ingredients:<br />
60ml<br />
30ml lemon juice<br />
7.5ml maple syrup<br />
1 egg wh<strong>it</strong>e<br />
1 tsp <strong>blue</strong>berry jam<br />
30ml Zinfandel wine<br />
method:<br />
Add all the ingredients except the wine<br />
<strong>to</strong> a shaker. Shake vigorously (w<strong>it</strong>hout<br />
ice) for 10 seconds. Fill w<strong>it</strong>h ice and<br />
shake for an add<strong>it</strong>ional 15 seconds.<br />
Fine strain in<strong>to</strong> a chilled 8-ounce<br />
Mason jar or a Bordeaux wine glass.<br />
Float the wine on <strong>to</strong>p using a spoon.<br />
Glass: Mason jar or red wine glass<br />
After-Dinner Sazerac<br />
ingredients:<br />
Coffee liqueur<br />
1 dash Angostura B<strong>it</strong>ters<br />
1 sugar cube<br />
60ml single malt whisky<br />
Method:<br />
Rinse a chilled Old Fashioned glass w<strong>it</strong>h coffee<br />
liqueur and set aside. In a mixing glass, muddle the<br />
b<strong>it</strong>ters and sugar cube. Add the whisky and fill w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
ice. Stir, and strain in<strong>to</strong> the prepared glass. Break<br />
a kaffir lime leaf in four places over the drink, run<br />
along the rim of the glass and discard.<br />
Garnish: Lime leaf<br />
Glass: Old Fashioned<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
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How the Sazerac Came<br />
<strong>to</strong> be the Only Offi cial<br />
Cocktail of a C<strong>it</strong>y<br />
{ }<br />
Th e Sazerac cocktail is essentially an Old Fashioned but w<strong>it</strong>h an<br />
absinthe rinse of the glass and the nonappearance of ice. New Orleans<br />
is the only c<strong>it</strong>y w<strong>it</strong>h an offi cial drink, and that drink is the Sazerac. W<strong>it</strong>h<br />
changing liquor, from Cognac <strong>to</strong> Rye Whiskey or Bourbon, the cocktail<br />
has become a loaded representation of the culturally shifting New<br />
Orleans. As a simple drink, there is not much <strong>to</strong> argue regarding the<br />
Sazerac, but the his<strong>to</strong>ry is what sets <strong>it</strong> apart from other cocktails.<br />
62 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
An<strong>to</strong>ine Amedee Paychaud was the<br />
son of French plantation owners who<br />
fled what is now Ha<strong>it</strong>i. He grew up<br />
<strong>to</strong> be an apothecary in New Orleans<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h a s<strong>to</strong>refront on Royal Street. He<br />
opened his s<strong>to</strong>re in 1834 and quickly<br />
realized that a dose of liquor might<br />
<strong>make</strong> his <strong>to</strong>nics easier <strong>to</strong> ingest.<br />
His<strong>to</strong>ry says that Peychaud added<br />
small amounts of his own recipe for<br />
b<strong>it</strong>ters and served his <strong>to</strong>nic-b<strong>it</strong>ters<br />
mixture in eggcups called “coquetiers”<br />
filled w<strong>it</strong>h cognac or other French<br />
brandy. The word “coquetiers” was<br />
anglicized <strong>to</strong> bring “cocktail” in<strong>to</strong><br />
modern vocabulary. The eggcups were<br />
also thought <strong>to</strong> mark the introduction<br />
of a shot or the precursor <strong>to</strong> a jigger,<br />
now used for alcohol measurements<br />
in most drinks.<br />
The Sazerac Company of New<br />
Orleans says that by 1850, the Sazerac<br />
cocktail, made w<strong>it</strong>h Sazerac French<br />
brandy and Peychaud’s B<strong>it</strong>ters was<br />
already popular and quickly becoming<br />
the first “branded” cocktail. In 1873,<br />
the recipe for the Sazerac cocktail was<br />
altered <strong>to</strong> replace the French brandy<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h American Rye whiskey, and a<br />
dash of absinthe was added.<br />
The first printed recipe for<br />
the Sazerac Cocktail was in the<br />
1908 ed<strong>it</strong>ion of (former California<br />
Assemblyman) William Boothby’s<br />
The World’s Drinks and How <strong>to</strong> Mix<br />
Them. Shortly after the printed recipe,<br />
in 1912, absinthe was banned in the<br />
Un<strong>it</strong>ed States. Sazerac lovers were not<br />
lost for long. Herbsaint was created<br />
<strong>to</strong> fill the void. ‘Herb Sainte” is the<br />
New Orleanian term for wormwood,<br />
which was the ingredient in absinthe<br />
that gave <strong>it</strong> the mystique and negative<br />
reputation. Wormwood was also the ingredient<br />
absent in herbsaint that made the subst<strong>it</strong>ution legal.<br />
Even <strong>to</strong>day, w<strong>it</strong>h the legalization of absinthe, many<br />
bartenders continue <strong>to</strong> use herbsaint in the production<br />
of Sazeracs.<br />
Sazeracs are important <strong>to</strong> New Orleans because<br />
they represent the c<strong>it</strong>y in many ways. B<strong>it</strong>ters are an<br />
acquired taste that <strong>make</strong> the drink feel exclusive,<br />
absinthe culture in New Orleans has a windy and<br />
proud his<strong>to</strong>ry which gives the drink some of that<br />
absinthe mystery, and the evolving liquor base (brandy<br />
<strong>to</strong> whiskey <strong>to</strong> occasionally bourbon) is a reflection of<br />
changing cultures and his<strong>to</strong>ry in New Orleans. Sara<br />
Rohen, in Gumbo Tales described her feeling of loss<br />
and disconnect during Hurricane Katrina. Stranded<br />
in New York, she looked for Red Beans and Rice on<br />
Mondays and did not find <strong>it</strong>, she sought out Sazeracs <strong>to</strong><br />
connect her <strong>to</strong> home, but found that the time and place<br />
fac<strong>to</strong>r left her still feeling lost. A perfect Sazerac is such<br />
a part of New Orleans that you have <strong>to</strong> be there <strong>to</strong> truly<br />
appreciate and taste <strong>it</strong>.<br />
Finally, the question of which came first, the Sazerac<br />
or the Old Fashioned is up for dispute. Many sources<br />
begin their Sazerac descriptions heralding <strong>it</strong> as the<br />
first cocktail. But if Pechaud created the cocktail in the<br />
1830’s, and the oldest printed mention of a “cocktail”<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h a recipe was in 1806 (for an Old Fashioned in The<br />
Balance and Columbia Repos<strong>it</strong>ory in Hudson, New<br />
York), then the Old Fashioned must have come first.<br />
On the other hand, how could anything be listed as<br />
a “cocktail” before the alleged invention of the word<br />
adapted from Pechaud’s eggcup or “coquetier?” The<br />
evidence leans <strong>to</strong>ward the Old Fashioned as the basic<br />
recipe the Sazerac is a mimic w<strong>it</strong>h added ingredients.<br />
No matter which came first or what brandy was<br />
used, Sazeracs are part of the New Orleans s<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
There are companies that specialize in b<strong>it</strong>ters for<br />
Sazeracs, an entire Sazerac brand that sells all liquors<br />
including vodka and gin, and at least one Sazerac bar<br />
in New Orleans. Regardless of whether a person is a<br />
New Orleans resident or an admirer, the cocktail helps<br />
them connect <strong>to</strong> the layered his<strong>to</strong>ry and mystique of<br />
the great c<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
63
Jim Beam® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 40% Alc./Vol. ©2010 James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, KY.<br />
Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.
Summer Scotch<br />
By: Charles MacLean<br />
{ }<br />
Purists maintain that<br />
Scotch—especially single<br />
malt—must be drunk<br />
only straight, on the rocks<br />
or, if you must, w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />
splash of water, and they<br />
generally tend <strong>to</strong> think of<br />
<strong>it</strong> as a winter tipple.<br />
To each his own, but until the mid-1800s,<br />
most Scotch was actually consumed in<br />
punch. Jerry Thomas of course includes<br />
a recipe in his seminal 1862 bartender’s<br />
guide How <strong>to</strong> Mix Drinks, or The Bon<br />
Vivant’s Companion. It calls for steeping<br />
lemon-peel shavings in whisky, “which<br />
should be Glenlivet or Islay, of the best qual<strong>it</strong>y.” (He goes on<br />
<strong>to</strong> remark, cheekily, “as <strong>it</strong> requires genius <strong>to</strong> <strong>make</strong> whiskey<br />
punch, <strong>it</strong> would be impertinent <strong>to</strong> give proportions.”)<br />
Today, these concoctions are enjoying a revival<br />
in Edinburgh’s stylish bars and allow for all kinds of<br />
experimentation. They are also great served outdoors in<br />
warm weather (think barbecues).<br />
I recommend using a light-bodied blended Scotch<br />
as your base—Cutty Sark, Chivas Regal or J&B Rare, for<br />
example—but don’t be afraid <strong>to</strong> try malts as well: Talisker<br />
introduces spice while Laphroaig or Ardbeg adds smoke.<br />
Mix the whisky w<strong>it</strong>h ginger ale, ginger beer, lemonade,<br />
club soda, apple juice or elderflower liqueur. Lemon, lime<br />
and ginger seem <strong>to</strong> go best w<strong>it</strong>h Scotch. I like a dash of<br />
Tabasco Sauce or b<strong>it</strong>ters in some combinations, but please<br />
be discreet.<br />
To get you started, I asked Stuart McCluskey, one of<br />
Scotland’s leading mixologists and owner of The Bon<br />
Vivant bar in Edinburgh, <strong>to</strong> create a refreshing summer<br />
whisky punch recipe. Slàinte!<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
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Smokey Haze on<br />
Summer days<br />
By: Stuart McCluskey<br />
Ingredients<br />
• 60ml light, smoky Scotch whisky<br />
(Talisker is ideal)<br />
• 30ml fresh lemon juice<br />
• 45ml rhubarb, ginger and honey<br />
syrup* (or <strong>to</strong> taste)<br />
• 1 handful summer berries<br />
(raspberries, strawberries,<br />
blackberries or a combination)<br />
• qual<strong>it</strong>y ginger ale<br />
Ingredients<br />
• 2 <strong>to</strong> 3 rhubarb stalks, roughly<br />
chopped<br />
• 2 <strong>to</strong> 3 slices fresh ginger<br />
• 2 oz honey, plus more if desired<br />
Charles MacLean, Master of the Quaich and James Beard Award winner, is the author of ten<br />
books on Scotch, including the Whiskypedia.<br />
66 WHISKY EDITION November 2011<br />
Preparation method<br />
• Add all ingredients except the ginger ale <strong>to</strong> a highball<br />
glass filled a third of the way w<strong>it</strong>h crushed ice. Stir<br />
lightly. Crown w<strong>it</strong>h a splash of ginger ale. Garnish w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
an orange wedge, mint sprig and a <strong>few</strong> summer berries.<br />
Glass: Highball<br />
Rhubarb, Ginger and Honey Syrup<br />
Preparation method<br />
• Add all the ingredients <strong>to</strong> a small saucepan and bring <strong>to</strong><br />
a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat <strong>to</strong> low and simmer<br />
until the rhubarb breaks down in<strong>to</strong> a pulp. Taste, and<br />
add more honey if desired. Strain through a fine-mesh<br />
strainer and refrigerate until cold before using.
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
67
Glossary of tasting terms<br />
Austere: Seemingly stern, severe, and unadorned in character.<br />
Balanced: One flavour or aroma element does not dominate.<br />
Big: To be contrasted w<strong>it</strong>h “subtle”. Bold, dominant, hard <strong>to</strong> ignore flavours and<br />
presence in the mouth.<br />
Body: Refers <strong>to</strong> mouthfeel.<br />
Cerealy: Evocative of grain associations.<br />
Complex: Seeming <strong>to</strong> possess many layers of flavour, for which time is needed <strong>to</strong> examine<br />
and characterize all of them.<br />
Dark flavours: Reminiscent of flavours like molasses.<br />
Dignified: This is hard <strong>to</strong> describe. It reflects that <strong>it</strong> does not taste cloying or youthful.<br />
Usually clear, resonant flavours.<br />
Dry: Astringent and not sweet. In extreme cases the spir<strong>it</strong> can feel as if <strong>it</strong> contains no<br />
moisture.<br />
Estery: Aroma contains chemical esters. These are generally light, fru<strong>it</strong>y, floral scents.<br />
Finish: The time period in malt tasting after one has swallowed the spir<strong>it</strong>.<br />
Firm: Refers <strong>to</strong> mouthfeel. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “soft”.<br />
Grassy: Reminiscent of grass.<br />
Harsh: An unpleasantly aggressive or caustic flavour or feeling <strong>to</strong> the mouth or nose.<br />
Herbal: Reminiscent of k<strong>it</strong>chen herbs such as thyme, basil, lavender, or chamomile.<br />
Hot: Reminiscent of physical warmth, like freshly-brewed coffee.<br />
Late Palate: The time period in malt tasting after the spir<strong>it</strong> has been in the mouth for a while<br />
but has not yet been swallowed.<br />
Malt, Malty: Refers <strong>to</strong> the aroma and flavour of malted barley. “Malt” can also be an<br />
abbreviation of “Single Malt Scotch Whisky”.<br />
Medicinal: Evocative of memories of liquid medicines.<br />
68 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
Mouth-coating: Giving the impression that <strong>it</strong> has coated the inside of your mouth, as w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />
syrup.<br />
Mouthfeel: The tactile feel of the malt in the mouth. Largely a reflection of the physical<br />
qual<strong>it</strong>ies, but can also be significantly affected by flavour elements.<br />
Nose: Aroma. When used as a verb, means <strong>to</strong> sample the aroma.<br />
Nutty: Evocative of the taste of nuts, or reminiscent of the alkaloid qual<strong>it</strong>ies of some<br />
nuts.<br />
Oaky: Influenced by aging in an oak cask. Implies a woody, spicy, astringent character.<br />
Orange, Orangey: Reminiscent of the c<strong>it</strong>rus fru<strong>it</strong> of that name.<br />
Palate: Two meanings. Means e<strong>it</strong>her the taste components of the malt, or the time period<br />
when the spir<strong>it</strong> is in one’s mouth.<br />
Peat, Peaty: Peat is a fuel formed of compacted vegetative layers harvested from the<br />
moors. A peat fire has trad<strong>it</strong>ionally provided the heat <strong>to</strong> dry the malted<br />
barley used in scotch whisky production. A significant flavour element in<br />
many malts, this heavy, smoky, somewhat vegetative flavour is imparted by<br />
the distillery water having run over peat, the peat smoke used in the drying<br />
process, or both.<br />
Peppery: Reminiscent of black pepper or hot chile peppers. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “spicy”.<br />
Rich: Possessing robust, highly-flavoured elements, usually w<strong>it</strong>h a thick mouthfeel.<br />
Sherried: Influenced by aging in a sherry cask. Usually implies a sweet, somewhat winey<br />
character.<br />
Smoke, Smokey: Evocative of the flavour of smoke. Sometimes this is peat smoke, but other times<br />
the smoke is reminiscent of bonfires, leaf fires, log fireplaces, cigar <strong>to</strong>bacco, pipe<br />
<strong>to</strong>bacco, or something else.<br />
Soft: Refers <strong>to</strong> mouthfeel. Like a marshmallow. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “firm”.<br />
Spicy: Reminiscent of spices such as cinnamon, clove, or nutmeg. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
“peppery”.<br />
Subtle: The elements of interest are not obvious on the palate. Contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “big”.<br />
Sweet: E<strong>it</strong>her sweet in <strong>it</strong>self, or reminiscent of sweetness. Frequently implies a “wet”<br />
feeling in the mouth (contrast w<strong>it</strong>h “dry”.)<br />
Youthful: Full of vibrant, volatile, light characteristics. Flavours may not be well integrated,<br />
although they may be. Think of a young wine.<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
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Whisky aroma wheel<br />
November 2011 WHISKY EDITION<br />
71
Enjoy Responsibly. Not for Sale <strong>to</strong> Persons Under the Age of 18.