Zinn & The Art Of Mountain Bike Maintenance - VeloPress

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th edition 

Text copyright © 2010 by Lennard Zinn 

Illustrations copyright © 2010 by VeloPress 

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elemental chlorine free, using soy-based inks. 

Cover and interior design by Erin Johnson 

Composition by Erin Johnson and Jessica Xavier 

Cover photo by Brad Kaminski; bike built by Lennard Zinn 

Custom paint job on cover bike by Spectrum Powder Works, Colorado Springs, CO 

Title font Sign Production JNL; body text Caecilia Roman 

10 11 12 / 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

CONTENTS 

A Tip of the Helmet to . . . ix 

Introduction xiii 

Chapters 

1 Tools 1 

2 Basic Stuff: Preride inspection, wheel removal, 

and general cleaning 15 

3 Emergency Repairs: How to get home when 

something big breaks or you get lost or hurt 33 

4 Chains 51 

5 Transmission: Front and rear derailleurs, cables, 

and shifters 71 

6 Wheels: Tires, rims and spokes, hubs, cassettes, 

and freewheels 111 

7 Brakes: Cables, levers, and calipers 147 

8 Cranksets 195 

9 Pedals 225 

10 Saddles and Seatposts 243 

11 Handlebars, Stems, and Headsets 257 

12 Wheelbuilding 291 

13 Forks 311 

14 Frames 347 

Appendixes 

Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. 

Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved 

A Troubleshooting Index 371 

B Gear Development 377 

C Mountain Bike Fitting 383 

D Torque Table 393 

Glossary 409 

Bibliography 421 

Index 423 

Illustration Index 433 

About the Author and Illustrator 437

INTRODUCTION 

Peace of mind isn’t at all superficial, really. It’s the 

whole thing. That which produces it is good maintenance; 

that which disturbs it is poor maintenance. 

What we call workability of the machine is just an 

objectification of this peace of mind. The ultimate 

test’s always your own serenity. If you don’t have this 

when you start and maintain it while you’re working, 

you’re likely to build your personal problems right into 

the machine itself. 

—Robert M. Pirsig, 

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance 

ABOUT THIS BOOK 

This book is intended for people who have an 

interest in maintaining their own mountain 

bikes. I have written it for mountain bike owners 

who do not think they’re capable of maintain- 

ing their own bikes, as well as for those who do 

and who want the how-to details at their finger- 

tips. In Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, 

Robert Pirsig explores the dichotomy between 

the purely classical and purely romantic views 

of the world, a dichotomy that also applies to 

mountain biking. Riding a mountain bike is 

generally a romantic experience of emotion, 

inspiration, and intuition, even when solving the 

complex physics of how to negotiate a technical 

section of trail without putting your foot down. 

Mountain bike mechanics, however, is a purely 

classical structure of underlying form dominated 

by reason and physical laws. The two practices— 

bike riding and bike maintenance—fit eloquently 

together. Each is designed to function in a par- 



ticular way, and to have one without the other 

would be missing out on half the fun. 

The romantic can appreciate how success at 

bike mechanics requires that the procedures be 

done with love, without which the care you imag- 

ined putting into your mountain bike would be 

lost. And even the pure romantic can follow the 

simple step-by-step procedures and “exploded” 

diagrams in this book (of which Fig. I.1 is an 

extreme example and is the only one not intended 

to be simple and clear!) and discover a passion for 

spreading new grease on old parts. 

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance is 

organized in such a way that you can pick main- 

tenance tasks appropriate for you. The repairs in 

these pages require no special skills to perform; 

anyone can do them. It takes only a willingness 

to learn. 

Mountain bikes are admirably resilient mach- 

ines. You can keep one running a long time just 

by changing the tires and occasionally lubricating xiii

xiv 

the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal 

maintenance your bike requires. Even if that is 

the only part of this book you end up using, you’ll 

have gotten your money’s worth by avoiding some 

unpleasant experiences out on the trail. 

This book was originally intended for home 

enthusiasts, not shop mechanics. For that reason, 

I have not included the long and precise lists of 

parts specifications that a shop mechanic might 

need. Nonetheless, when combined with a speci- 

fication manual, this book can be a useful, easy- 

to-follow reference for shop mechanics, too. 

WHY DO IT YOURSELF? 

There are a number of reasons why you would 

want to maintain your own mountain bike. 

Obviously, if done right, it is a lot cheaper to do 

yourself than to pay someone else to do it. This is 

certainly an important factor for those riders who 

live to ride and have no visible means of support. 

Self-maintenance is a necessity for that crew. 

As your income goes up and the time available 

to maintain your bike goes down, this becomes 

less and less true. If you’re a well-paid profes- 

sional with limited free time, it probably does 

not make as much economic sense to maintain 

your own bike. Yet you may find that you enjoy 

working on your bike for reasons other than 

just saving money. Unless you have a mechanic 

whom you trust and to whom you take your bike 

regularly, you are not likely to find anyone else 

who cares as much about your bicycle’s smooth 

operation and cleanliness as you do. You may also 

need your bike fixed faster than a local shop can 

do during its busy season. And you need to be 

able to fix mechanical breakdowns that occur on 

the trail. 

It is a given: Breakdowns will happen, even 

if you have the world’s best mechanic working 

on your bike. For this reason, it takes away from 

my enjoyment of a ride if I have something on 

ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE 



my bike that I do not understand well enough to 

know whether it is likely to last the ride or how to 

fix it if it does not. 

There is an aspect of bicycle mechanics 

that can be extremely enjoyable in and of itself, 

almost independent of riding the bike. Bicycles 

are the epitome of elegant simplicity. Bicycle 

parts, particularly high-end components, are 

meant to work well and last a long time. With the 

proper attention, they can shine both in appear- 

ance and in performance for years to come. 

There is real satisfaction in dismantling a filthy 

part that is not functioning well, cleaning it up, 

lubricating it with fresh grease, and reassembling 

it so that it works like new again. Knowing that 

I made those parts work so smoothly—and that I 

can do it again when they get dirty or worn—is 

rewarding. I am eager to ride hard to see how 

they hold up rather than being reluctant to ride 

for fear of breaking something. 

Also, if you share my stubborn unwillingness 

to throw something out and buy a replacement 

simply because it has quit working—be it a leaky 

Waterpik; a torn tent; a duffle bag with a broken 

zipper; or an old car, dishwasher, clock, or chain- 

saw that is no longer running well—then this 

book is for you. It is satisfying to keep an old piece 

of equipment running long past its time, and it’s a 

great learning experience! 

There is also something very liberating about 

going on a long ride and knowing that you can 

fix just about anything that might go wrong with 

your bike out on the trail. Armed with this knowl- 

edge (which begins with learning to identify the 

parts of a mountain bike, shown in Fig. I.2) and 

the tools to put it into action, you will have more 

confidence to explore new areas and to go farther 

than you might have otherwise. 

To illustrate, an experience from way back in 

1995 comes to mind, when I took a day to ride 

the entire 110-mile White Rim Trail loop in Utah’s

Canyonlands National Park. It is as desolate as 

you can imagine out there, and I was completely 

alone with the sky, the sun, and the rocks for long 

stretches. I had a good mileage base in my legs, so 

I knew I was physically capable of doing the ride 

during the limited daylight hours of late October. 

I had checked, replaced, or adjusted practically 

every part of my bike in the days before the ride. 

I had also tried out the bike on long rides close to 

town. Finally, I added to my saddlebag tool kit a 

few tools that I do not ordinarily carry. 

I knew that there was very little chance of 

anything going wrong with my bike, and with the 

tools I had, I could fix almost anything short of a 

broken frame on the trail. Armed with this knowl- 

edge and experience, I really enjoyed the ride! I 

stopped and gawked at almost every breathtak- 

ing vista, vertical box canyon, colorful balanced 

rock, or windblown arch. I took scenic detours. 

I knew that I had a good cushion of safety, so I 

could totally immerse myself in the pleasure of 

the ride. I had no nagging fear of something going 

wrong to dilute the experience. 

Confidence in your mechanical ability allows 

you to be more courageous about what you will try 

on trails. And armed with this confidence you’ll 

be more willing to share your love of the sport 

with less experienced riders. Bringing new people 

along on rides is a lot more fun if you know that 

you can fix their bikes and they won’t be stranded 

with an old junker that won’t roll. 

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 

Skim through the entire book. Skip the detailed 

steps, but look at the exploded diagrams and get 

the general flavor of the book and what’s inside. 

When it is time to perform a particular task, 

you’ll know where to find it, and you’ll have a 

basic idea of how to approach it. 

Illustrator Todd Telander and I have done our 

best to make these pages as understandable as 



possible. Exploded diagrams are purposefully 

used instead of photographs to show more clearly 

how each part goes together. The first time you 

go through a procedure, you may find it easier to 

have a friend read the instructions out loud as you 

perform the steps. 

Obviously, some maintenance tasks are more 

complicated than others. I am convinced that 

anyone with an opposable thumb can perform 

virtually any repair on a bike. Still, it pays to spend 

some time getting familiar with the really simple 

tasks, such as fixing a flat, before throwing your- 

self into complex jobs, such as building a wheel. 

e LEVEL 1 

eeLEVEL 2 

eeeLEVEL 3 

Tasks and tools required are divided into 

three levels indicating their complexity or your 

proficiency. Level 1 tasks need level 1 tools and 

require of you only an eagerness to learn. Level 2 

and level 3 tasks also have corresponding tool sets 

and are progressively more difficult. All repairs 

mentioned in this book are classified as level 1 

unless otherwise indicated. Tools are shown in 

Chapter 1. The section at the end of Chapter 2, 

“Performing Mechanical Work: A General Guide” 

(§ii-17), is a must-read; it states general policies 

and approaches that apply to all mechanical work. 

Each chapter starts with a list of required tools 

in the margin. If a section involves a higher level 

of work, there will be an icon designating the level 

and tools necessary to perform the tasks in that 

section. Tasks and illustrations are numbered for 

easy reference. Section references use the sym- 

bol “§.” For instance, “§iii-6” means “see Section 

iii-6 in Chapter 3.” Illustrations are referred to as 

“Figures,” for instance, “Fig. 3.3.” 

INTRODUCTION 

xv 

INTRODUCTION

xx 

and 650B (27.5-inch) tires and wheels are gaining 

favor, particularly for tall riders. Smaller 24-inch 

wheels and tires are found on small mountain bikes. 

Tire widths and shapes vary and include everything 

from studded snow tires to smooth street tires. This 

book also covers “hybrid” bikes (Fig. I.5), which are a 

cross between road bikes and mountain bikes. 

No matter how a mountain bike is configured, 

even those who see themselves as having no 

mechanical skills will be able to tackle problems 

as they arise if they study the steps necessary 

to properly maintain and repair their bike. With 

a little bit of practice and a willingness to learn, 




your bike will transform itself from a mysterious 

contraption seemingly too complicated to tamper 

with to a simple, very understandable machine 

that can be a genuine delight to work on. Just 

allow yourself the opportunity and the dignity to 

follow along, rather than deciding in advance that 

you will never be able to do this. All you have to 

do is follow the instructions and trust yourself. 

So, set aside your self-image as someone who 

is “not mechanically oriented” (and any other fac- 

tors that may stand in the way of your making 

your mountain bike ride like a dream), and let’s 

start playing with your bike!

Behold, we lay a tool here and on the morrow it is gone. 

—The Book of Mormon 

You can’t do much work on a bike without 

tools. Still, it’s not always clear exactly which 

tools to buy. This chapter clarifies the tools you 

should consider owning on the basis of your level 

of mechanical experience and interest. 

As I mentioned in the Introduction, the main- 

tenance and repair procedures in this book are 

classified by their degree of difficulty. Nearly all the 

repairs in this book are classified as level 1, unless 

otherwise indicated. The tools for levels 1, 2, and 3 

are pictured and described in the following pages. 

Lists of the tools needed in each chapter are shown 

in the margin at the beginning of each chapter. 

For the uninitiated, there is no need to rush 

out and buy a large number of bike-specific tools. 

With only a few exceptions, the Level 1 Tool Kit 

(Fig. 1.1A) consists of standard metric tools. This 

kit is similar to the collection of tools I recom- 

mend later in this chapter to carry with you on 

rides, though in a more compact and lightweight 

form (Figs. 1.5–6). The Level 2 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.2) 

contains several bike-specific tools, allowing you 

to do more complex work on the bike. The tools 

in the Level 3 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.3) are extensive (and 



expensive), and they ensure that your riding bud- 

dies will show up not only to ask your sage advice, 

but also to borrow your tools. 

And if you really want to go all out and be set 

up like a pro (and even have mechanics wanting 

to borrow your tools), you can splurge on the set 

shown in Figure 1.4. If you loan tools, you might 

consider marking your collection to help recover 

those items that might otherwise take a long 

time finding their way back to your workshop. 

It wouldn’t hurt writing down the details about 

which tool you lent to whom and on what date. 

You would be surprised how easy it is to forget 

who has one of your seldom-used tools such as 

snapring pliers or a metric tap. 

LEVEL 1 TOOL KIT 

e LEVEL 1 

i-1 

Level 1 repairs are the simplest and do not 

require a workshop, although it is nice to have a 

good space to work. You will need the following 

tools (Fig. 1.1A): 

TOOLS 

1 

1

2 

• Tire pump with a gauge and a valve head 

to match your bike’s tubes (either Presta or 

Schrader valves—see Fig. 1.1B; most good pumps 

will fit both). A spare rubber valve-seal insert for 

the head is a good idea; these wear out. 

• Standard screwdrivers: small, medium, and 

large (one of each). 

• Phillips-head screwdrivers: one small and one 

medium. 

• Set of three plastic tire levers (Figs. 6.5–6). 

• At least two spare tubes of the same size and 

valve type as those on your bike. 

• Container of regular talcum powder. It works 

well for coating tubes and the inner casings 

of tires. Do not inhale this stuff; it’s bad for 

the lungs. 

• Patch kit. Choose one that comes with sand- 

paper instead of a metal scratcher and patches 

with soft orange rubber backing to the black 

rubber (Fig. 6.11). At least every year and a half, 

check that the glue has not dried up, regard- 

less of whether the tube has been opened or 

not. On rides, you might as well take a little 

packet of glueless patches; they don’t work as 

well as standard patches, but if the glue has 

dried up, you’ll be glad you have them. 

• One 6-inch adjustable wrench (aka “Crescent 

wrench”). 

• Pliers: regular and needle-nose. 

• Set of metric hex keys (aka “Allen wrenches” 

or “hex wrenches”) that includes 2.5mm, 3mm, 

4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm sizes. 

Folding sets are available and work nicely to 

keep your wrenches organized but are not 

strong enough or long enough in the big sizes 

(6mm and up); big bolts require more leverage. 

I also recommend buying extras of the 4mm, 

5mm, 6mm, and 8mm sizes. 

• Set of metric open-end/box-end wrenches 

that includes 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 13mm, 

14mm, 15mm, and 17mm sizes. 




1.1A Level 1 Tool Kit 

spare tube 

patch kit 

15mm pedal wrench 

modern shock pump 

tire levers 

grease 

• 15mm pedal wrench. This is thinner and lon- 

ger than a standard 15mm wrench and thicker 

than a cone wrench (Fig. 9.3). Your bike’s ped- 

als may accept only a 6mm or 8mm hex key 

(Fig. 9.4), so you may not need this tool. 

plenty of rags 

• Chain tool for disconnecting and reconnecting 

chain tool 

chain lube

spoke wrench 

talcum 

powder 

talc 

chain-elongation gauge 

noggin 

rubbing 

alcohol 

rubbing alcohol 

Schrader valve adapter 

for old Marzocchi and 

RockShox forks 

chains (Figs. 4.10–11). Older chain tools may 

be too wide for the narrow chains on newer 

bikes; read the Pro Tip in Chapter 4 before 

buying one. 

• Chain-elongation gauge to monitor the condi- 

tion of the chain (Figs. 4.5–6). 

needle-nose 

pliers 

tire 

pump 

with 

gauge 



metric hex 

keys 

pliers 

folding metric 

hex keys 

standard and Phillipshead 

screwdrivers 

1.1B Valve types 

Presta 

6" adjustable wrench 

metric open-end/box-end wrenches 

Schrader 

CHAPTER 1 

3 

TOOLS

4 

• Spoke wrench to match the size of nipples 

used on your bike’s wheels. 

• Tube or jar of grease. I recommend using 

grease designed specifically for bicycles; how- 

ever, standard automotive grease is okay, 

except in suspension forks and twist shifters. 

• Drip bottle or can of chain lubricant (Fig. 4.1). 

Please choose a nonaerosol; it is easier to 

control, uses less packaging, and wastes less 

in overspray. 

• Rubbing alcohol for cleaning disc-brake pads, 

rotors, shocks, and internal parts and for 

removing and installing handlebar grips. 

• A lot of rags! 

Other useful items: 

• If you have an air-sprung suspension fork or 

rear shock, you need a shock pump. Get one 

with a no-leak head if the front or rear shock 

has standard Schrader valves (Fig. 13.10), 

and get the adapter you need if your bike’s 

fork requires either a ball needle or a spe- 

cial adapter to insert down inside a sunken 

Schrader valve. 

LEVEL 2 TOOL KIT 

eeLEVEL 2 

i-2 

Level 2 repairs are a bit more complex, and I 

recommend that you create a well-organized 

workspace with a shop bench. Keeping your work- 

space organized is probably the best way to make 

maintenance and repair easy and quick. You will 

need the entire Level 1 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.1A) plus the 

following tools (Fig. 1.2): 

�� Portable bike stand. Be sure that the stand is 

sturdy enough to remain stable when you’re 

really cranking on the wrenches. If for some 

reason you can’t clamp your bike’s seatpost, 

you will need a bike stand that holds the bike 

by the bottom bracket and the front or rear end 

with one wheel out; see the one in Figure 1.4. 




1.2 Level2ToolKit 

Channel-lock 

pliers 

snapring 

pliers 

duct tape 

tire pressure 

gauge 

sound system 

portable bike 

stand 

rubber gloves 

ball-peen hammer 

splined pedalspindle 

removal 

tool

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. 

—Anonymous 

A sausage is only as good as its last link. 

bike chain is a simple series of links connected 

A by rivets. Rollers surround each rivet between 

the link plates and engage the teeth of the cogs 

and chainrings. It is an extremely efficient method 

of transmitting mechanical energy from the ped- 

als to the rear wheel. In terms of weight, cost, and 

efficiency, the bicycle chain has no equal, and— 

believe me—people have tried without success to 

improve on it for years. 

To keep your bike running smoothly, you have 

to take care of the chain. It needs to be kept clean 

and well lubricated in order to transmit your 

energy efficiently and shift smoothly. Chains need 

to be replaced frequently to prolong the working 

life of other, more expensive, drivetrain compo- 

nents because a chain gets longer as its internal 

parts wear, thus contacting the gear teeth differ- 

ently than intended. 

CHAIN SERVICE AND ASSEMBLY 

iv-1 

LUBRICATING THE CHAIN 

When lubricating the chain, use a lubricant 

intended for bicycle chains. If you want to get 



—Bluto 

fancy about it, you can assess the type of condi- 

tions in which you ride and choose a lubricant 

intended for those conditions. Some lubricants 

are dry and pick up less dirt in dry conditions. 

Some are sticky and therefore less likely to 

wash off in wet conditions. Still others claim to 

be “metal conditioners” that actually penetrate 

and alter the surface of the metal. One of these, 

ProGold’s ProLink, gives me longer chain life in all 

riding conditions, with daily use, than anything 

else I have tried, so that’s what I use. I’m not say- 

ing that there aren’t other equally good products, 

but by recommending one that I know is good, 

I can cut down on the e-mails asking me what 

chain lube I suggest. 

Chain lubes generally come in spray cans and 

in squeeze bottles. Sprays should be avoided for 

regular maintenance chores because they tend 

to spew too much oil over everything, includ- 

ing in the air where you can inhale the lube. The 

chain needs oil only between contacting parts. 

On the outside, a thin film is sufficient to keep 

corrosion at bay; more than that will only attract 

dirt and gunk without improving the function of 

the chain. 

CHAINS 

TOOLS 

4 

chain lubricant 

12-inch ruler 

chain tool 

lots of rags 

rubber gloves 

OPTIONAL 

chain-elongation 

indicator 

master link pliers 

solvent (citrus 

based) 

self-contained chain 

cleaner 

old water bottle 

caliper 

pliers 

solvent tank 

Rohloff cog-wear 

indicator 

51

52 

4.1 Lubing the chain 

1. Drip a small amount of lubricant across each 

roller (Fig. 4.1). Periodically move the chain so 

that you can easily access the links you are 

working on. To speed the process, turn the 

crank slowly while dripping lubricant onto 

the chain as it goes by. Yes, this method will 

cause you to apply excess lubricant, which 

will pick up more dirt. But overlubricating is 

far preferable to not lubricating, and if you 

wipe and lube the chain after each ride or 

two, it won’t build up excessive grime. 

4.2 Wiping the chain with a rag 




2. Wipe the chain off lightly with a rag. In wet 

conditions, expect to use more lubricant (after 

every ride or even during a long, rainy ride). 

iv-2 

CLEANING THE CHAIN BY FREQUENT 

WIPING AND LUBRICATION 

Cleaning the chain can be accomplished in 

a number of ways. The simplest method to 

maintain a chain is to wipe it down frequently, 

lubricate it, and then wipe off the excess lube. If 

you do this procedure before every ride, you will 

never need to clean the chain with a solvent. 

The lubricant softens the old sludge buildup, 

which is driven out of the chain when you 

ride. Of course, the lubricant also picks up new 

dirt and grime, but if you wipe them off before 

they’re driven deep into the chain and relubri- 

cate the chain frequently, it will stay clean and 

supple. Chain cleaning can be performed as fol- 

lows with the bike standing on the ground or in 

a bike stand:

4.3 Wiping the jockey wheels with a rag 4.4 Using a solvent-bath chain cleaner 

1. Grab the chain with a rag. Grasp the lower 

length of the chain (between the bottom of 

the chainring and the rear-derailleur lower 

jockey wheel). 

2. Turn the crank backward a number of revo- 

lutions. Pull the chain through the rag (Fig. 

4.2). Periodically rotate the rag to present a 

cleaner section of it to the chain. 

3. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1. 

To encourage regular care, leave a pair of rub- 

ber gloves, a rag, and some chain lube next to your 

bike. Then, whenever you return from a ride, put on 

the gloves, wipe and lube the chain, and put your 

bike away. It takes maybe a minute, your hands 

stay clean, and your bike is ready for the next ride. 

If you can find time to take a shower after you ride, 

you can find time for this. Wipe the chainrings, 

cogs, front derailleur, and jockey wheels (Fig. 4.3) 

while you’re at it, and the entire drivetrain will 

always work ideally. 

iv-3 

USING CHAIN-CLEANING UNITS 

Several companies make chain-cleaning units 

that scrub the chain with a solvent while it is 

on the bike. These chain cleaners are generally 



made of clear plastic and have two or three 

rotating brushes that scrub the chain as it moves 

through the solvent bath (Fig. 4.4). The units offer 

the advantage of letting you clean the chain 

without removing it from the bike. Regularly 

removing the chain shortens any chain’s life; 

moreover, with 9- or 10-speed chains unless you 

use a master link, you may find that the chain 

breaks under high load, thereby driving your foot, 

and perhaps your entire body, into the ground. 

Most chain-cleaning units come with a non- 

toxic, citrus-based solvent. For your safety, and 

other environmental reasons, I strongly recom- 

mend that you purchase nontoxic citrus solvents 

for the chain-cleaning unit, even if it already 

comes with a petroleum-based solvent. If you 

recycle used diesel fuel, then go ahead and use it. 

In any case, wear gloves and glasses when using 

any solvent. 

Citrus chain solvents often contain some 

lubricants, so they won’t dry the chain out. The 

combination of lubricant and solvent is why diesel 

fuel has had such a following as a chain cleaner. 

A really strong solvent without lubricant (acetone, 

for example) will displace the oil from inside the 

rollers. The solvent will later evaporate, leaving a 

CHAPTER 4 

53 

CHAINS

54 

dry, squeaking chain that is hard to rehabilitate. 

The same can happen with a citrus-based solvent 

that does not include a lubricant if no lubricant is 

separately applied, especially if the chain is not 

allowed to dry long enough. The procedure for 

using a chain-cleaning unit is straightforward: 

1. Remove the top and pour in the solvent up 

to the fill line. 

2. Place the chain-cleaning unit up against the 

bottom of the chain. Reinstall the top so that 

the chain runs through it (Fig. 4.4). 

3. Turn the bike’s crank backward. Run the 

chain through the unit’s brushes until it is 

clean. 

4. Remove the unit from the chain. 

5. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1. 

6. Let the solvent settle, decant the clear por- 

tion, and discard the sludge. 

iv-4 

REMOVING AND CLEANING THE CHAIN 

e LEVEL 1 

You can also clean the chain by removing it from 

the bicycle and cleaning it in a solvent. I do not 

recommend this procedure unless the chain has 

a master link, because repeatedly disassembling 

the chain by pushing rivets in and out weakens it. 

Mountain bike chains are prone to break- 

age because of the conditions in which they are 

used, but chain breakage is even more of an issue 

because of the narrow width of 9- and 10-speed 

chains. A chain that breaks during riding gener- 

ally does so when you shift the front derailleur 

while pedaling hard. This technique can pry a 

link plate open so that the head of a rivet pops 

out of the plate, tearing the chain apart. Chain 

disassembly and reassembly expand the size of 

the rivet hole where you put the chain together, 

allowing the rivet to pop out more easily. Shimano 




supplies special “subpins” for reassembly of its 

chains that are meant to prevent this problem, 

but the chain is still not as strong there as if you 

had left the original pin in place. 

A hand-opened master link can avoid the 

problem of repeatedly opening and reassembling 

the chain. Master links are standard on SRAM, 

Wippermann, Taya, and KMC chains. An after- 

market master link, like Lickton’s SuperLink, can 

also be installed into any chain so long as you 

make sure that the master link is the right width. 

If you do disassemble the chain (see §iv-7 

or §iv-11 for instructions), you can clean it well, 

even without a solvent tank. Just drop the chain 

into an old jar or water bottle half filled with sol- 

vent. Using an old water bottle or jar allows you 

to clean the chain without touching or breathing 

the solvent—something to be avoided even when 

you are using citrus solvents. 

The procedure for cleaning the chain without 

using a chain-cleaning unit could not be simpler: 

1. Remove the chain from the bike (§iv-7 or 

§iv-11). 

2. Drop it in a water bottle or jar. 

3. Pour in enough solvent to cover the chain. 

4. Shake the bottle vigorously. Keep it low to 

the ground in case the top pops off or the jar 

breaks. 

5. Hang the chain to air-dry. 

6. Reassemble it on the bike (see §iv-8 to 

§iv-11). 

7. Lubricate it as in §iv-1. 

Whatever you do, don’t leave the chain to 

soak for extended periods in citrus-based sol- 

vents, because these are water based and will 

cause the chain to oxidize (rust), making it move 

with more friction and be more prone to break- 

age. (Some people believe in having two chains 

they rotate on and off the bike, leaving one soak- 

ing in solvent while the other one is on the bike.

Although this would work with diesel fuel as the 

solvent, it won’t work with water-based solvents. 

In any case, you gain nothing by soaking the chain 

for extended periods, so just don’t do it.) 

After removing the chain, allow the solvent 

in the bottle or jar to settle for a few days so that 

you can decant the clear stuff and use it again. I’ll 

say this throughout the book: Use a citrus-based 

solvent. It is not only safer for the environment; 

it is also gentler on your skin and less harmful 

to breathe. Wear rubber gloves when working 

with any solvent, and use a respirator meant for 

volatile organic compounds if you are not using 

a citrus-based solvent. There is no sense in fixing 

your bike to go faster if you end up becoming a 

slow, sickly bike rider. 

iv-5 

REPLACING THE CHAIN 

e LEVEL 1 

As the rollers, pins, and plates wear out, the 

chain lengthens. That, in turn, hastens the wear 

and tear on other drivetrain parts. An elongated 

chain concentrates the load on each individual 

gear tooth, rather than distributing it over all of 

the teeth that the chain is wrapped around, and 

as a result the gear teeth become hook-shaped 

and the tooth valleys become wider. If such wear 

has already occurred, a new chain will not solve 

the problem. A new chain will not mesh prop- 

erly with deformed teeth, and it is likely to skip 

whenever you pedal hard. So before all of that 

extra wear and tear hits your pocketbook, get in 

the habit of checking the chain on a regular basis 

(§iv-6) and replacing it as needed. 

How long it takes for the chain to wear out 

will vary, depending on chain type, maintenance, 

riding conditions, and strength and weight of the 

rider. Figure on replacing the chain every 500 to 



1,000 miles, especially for bikes ridden in dirty 

conditions by a large rider. Lighter riders riding 

mostly on paved roads can often extend replace- 

ment time to more than 2,000 miles. 

iv-6 

CHECKING FOR CHAIN ELONGATION 

e LEVEL 1 

a. Chain-elongation gauges 

The simplest accurate method for checking chain 

elongation is to use a gauge. Make sure you check a 

number of spots on the chain; you’ll find variation. 

The Rohloff gauge (Fig. 4.5) is simple, quick, 

and reliable. It’s a go/no-go gauge. Brace the hook 

end against a chain roller, and if the opposing 

curved tooth falls completely into the chain so 

that the length of the tool’s body contacts it, the 

chain is shot. If the chain is still in good shape, the 

curved tooth will not go all of the way in. The tooth 

marked “S” is for checking a chain running strictly 

on steel rear cogs, and the tooth marked “A” is for 

checking aluminum and titanium cogs, but I use 

just the A side. I find that if the A edge comes down 

to the chain and I replace it right then, I get almost 

infinite life out of my chainrings and cogs, even 

titanium ones. That’s worth it to me. 

The ProGold chain gauge (Fig. 4.6) is also quick 

and accurate. Brace the hooked end against a 

chain roller, and let the long tooth drop into the 

4.5 Checking chain wear with the Rohloff gauge. 

If the curved tooth with the S (steel cogs) 

falls completely into the chain, replace the 

chain (A is for aluminum cogs). 

CHAPTER 4 

55 

CHAINS

198 

“Square taper,” “Octalink,” and “ISIS” are three 

different bottom-bracket and crankarm interface 

standards. Square-taper bottom-bracket spindles are 

square on the end (Figs. 8.1, 8.18, 8.21–23) and fit into 

a square hole in the crankarm. The spindle ends are 

tapered (at a 2-degree angle) to tighten into the crank 

as the arm is pushed into the spindle. ISIS (Fig. 8.19) 

and Shimano Octalink (Fig. 8.20) are both oversized 

hollow spindles (aka “pipe spindles”) with longitudinal 

splines on the ends. 

3. Unscrew the crank puller’s (Fig. 8.6) center 

push bolt so that its tip is flush with the 

face of the tool. Make sure the flat end of 

the push bolt is the right size for the bottom 

bracket; the push bolt end is much smaller 

for a square-taper spindle than for an ISIS or 

a Shimano Octalink splined spindle. 

4. Thread the crank puller into the hole in the 

crankarm. Be sure that you thread it in (by 

hand) as far as it can go; otherwise, you will 

not engage sufficient crank threads when you 




tighten the push bolt, and you will damage 

the threads. Future crank removal depends 

on those threads being in good condition. 

5. Tighten the push bolt clockwise (Fig. 8.6) 

until the crankarm pulls off the spindle. Use 

a socket wrench or the included handle. 

6. Unscrew the puller from the crankarm. 

Installation 

a. Integrated-spindle cranks with two pinch 

bolts on the left arm 

e LEVEL 1 

1. Grease the spindle tip and the bore of each 

bearing. 

2. Push the spindle (which is attached to the 

right crankarm) in through the bearings from 

the drive side. 

3. Slide the left arm onto the end of the spindle. 

Check that the crank is at 180 degrees from 

the right arm. 

8.5 Removing and installing a Shimano 2007–2010 XTR FC-M970 crankset 

spindle 

right 

crankarm 

right 

bearing 

cup 

TL-FC35 

crankarm 

removal 

tool 

spacer 

TL-FC17 

adjusting 

nut tool 

spindle cover 

with O-rings 

bolt 

spacer 

washer adjusting nut 

left bearing cup 

left crankarm 

(Attention: left-hand thread!) 

washer 

retainer 

bolt

INDEX 

Adjustable cups, 207, 215, 216, 221, 

409 

Air compressors, 11, 122, 154 

Air pressure, 318, 320, 326–327 

Air-sleeves, servicing, 353, 354, 355 

Alignment tool, 10 

Antiseize compound, 28, 200 

Antitwist tool, 9 

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF), 

336, 337 

Axle-clamp tool, 10 

Axle nuts, 15, 20 

Axles, 30, 212, 299, 409 

checking, 19 

cleaning, 130 

removing, 129 

replacing, 235 

securing, 23–24 

through-, 20–22, 23, 128 

Ball bearings, 142, 174, 203, 204, 

207, 218, 231, 234, 358, 359, 

360, 361, 409 

angular-contact, 272, 277, 278, 

279, 281 

ceramic, 136, 217, 219 

cleaning, 130–131, 133, 221, 237, 

277, 280 

loose, 278, 279 

lubricating, 131, 132, 281, 286 

orienting, 218–219, 278 

overtightening, 272 

press-in, 211, 279 

replacing, 130, 131, 217–220, 277, 

280, 282, 359–360 

sealed, 416 

standard, 280 

steel, 136, 217 

See also Cartridge bearings 

Bar ends, 153, 154, 287, 409 

installing, 95–96, 255, 257 

position of, 390–391 

replacing, 95–96, 257, 258 

Barrel adjusters, 77, 78, 88, 89, 90, 

92, 93, 149, 151, 152, 153, 154, 



166, 409 

BBT-39 tool, 200, 212 

Bearing cups, 207, 211, 212, 409 

Bearing pullers, 211, 219–220 

Bearing removers, 11 

Belt drives, 64–66, 101 

Bike dimensions, 385 

Bike fitting, 383–391, 385–393 

Bike stands, 4, 9 

Blankets, 14, 48 

Body measurements, 385–388 

Bosses, 176, 180, 181, 183, 186, 188, 

191, 194, 309 

brake, 148, 150, 345, 348, 410 

cantilever, 148, 311, 312, 313, 348, 

350, 351, 411 

disc-brake, 312, 313, 350, 351 

Bottom-bracket cups, 30, 83, 213, 

217, 223, 350 

Bottom-bracket shells, 11, 58, 66, 81, 

83, 207, 208, 209, 210, 212, 213, 

214, 215, 216, 220, 222, 223, 

252, 352, 387, 410 

cleaning, 211, 212 

full-carbon, 204 

tapping, 350 

unthreaded, 203 

Bottom-bracket tools, 6 

Bottom brackets, 65, 102, 108, 109, 

110, 191, 195, 198, 203–216, 231, 

345, 388, 409 

adjusting, 201, 222, 223 

BB30: 220 

BB86: 204, 205, 206 

BB90: 204, 206 

BB92: 204–206, 210–211, 220 

BB95: 204–206, 210–211, 219 

cartridge, 212–213, 216, 220–221, 

223–225 

cup-and-cone, 213–216, 221, 222, 

223 

eccentric, 58, 66 

external-bearing, 203, 205, 206, 

209–210 

height, 384, 386, 410 

installing, 83, 208–216, 221 

integrated-spindle, 216, 217 

ISIS, 198, 213 

ISO, 206 

noise in, 221–224 

overhauling, 109, 216–221, 223 

PF24: 205, 210–211, 220 

PF30: 204, 220 

Shimano, 207, 209, 213, 215 

square-taper, 198, 203, 208 

threaded, 206–207, 217–220, 350 

threadless, 204, 210–212, 219 

Box-cutter knife, 6 

Brake boosters, 189, 194, 410 

Brake hoses, 46, 164, 166, 173 

installing, 189 

Brake levers, 96, 152–155, 177, 184, 

255 

positioning, 152–154 

removing, 96, 152–154, 258 

shift cables and, 88 

squeezing, 15, 163 

Brake pads, 23, 42, 126, 164, 174, 

299, 410 

adjusting, 151, 177, 180, 181, 

188–189, 193 

checking, 15, 156 

cleaning, 156 

cottered, 155, 156, 157 

disc, 155–157 

offset of, 177–178, 182 

removing, 166, 171 

replacing, 166, 179–180, 181, 191, 

192, 193 

rims and, 40–41 

spacing, 149, 158, 166 

toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194 

worn, 148, 150, 193 

Brake reach, adjusting, 154–155 

Brakes, 23, 24, 152, 154, 170–171, 

173, 183, 185, 186, 410 

bleeding, 168–170 

checking, 15, 16, 22 

curved-face, 183 

cylindrical-arm, 183 

423

424 

cylindrical-clamp, 182 

disconnecting, 328, 331 

feel of, 184 

Hayes, 157, 159, 168–170, 173 

hub, 414 

linkage, 148, 190, 194 

mounting, 162-163 

opening, 40–41 

options for, 147–148 

releasing, 16–17, 23, 148, 150 

rim, 16, 149, 150, 301 

rubbing, 370 

Shimano, 88–89, 95, 167, 185 

troubleshooting with, 192–194 

See also Cantilever brakes; Disc 

brakes; Hydraulic brakes; 

Roller-cam brakes; U-brakes; 

V-brakes 

Braking, 291, 322 

chattering/vibration when, 183, 

369, 372, 374, 375 

problems with, 369–370 

Brushes, 24, 26 

Buckets, 24 

Bushings, 180, 181, 211, 231, 234, 

330, 334, 335, 353, 354, 355, 

356, 358, 361, 410 

replacing, 359–360 

Cable cutters, 6, 86 

Cable stops, 348, 410 

Cable tension, 72, 76–78, 107 

adjusting, 71, 74, 85, 148–149, 151, 

152, 186, 230–231, 396 

Cables, 76, 97, 148–154, 178, 185, 

190, 251, 311, 410 

broken, 45–46 

clamping, 40–41 

Gore-Tex, 86, 94, 95, 178 

installing, 22, 74, 92–93, 94, 150 

loose, 40–41, 85 

lubricating, 30, 94–95, 107, 149, 

150 

maintaining, 103, 149, 152, 192 

replacing, 30, 85, 87–92, 149, 150, 

152 

shift, 80, 85, 88, 89–90 

Shimano, 89–90 

sticky, 68, 107 

tying, 43 

worn, 151, 193 

Calipers, 11, 41, 150, 156, 163, 170, 

313, 410 

cleaning, 171–173 

disc-brake, 31, 161, 162, 173–174 




hydraulic, 156, 171–173 

measuring, 415 

mounting, 161–162 

overhauling, 173–174 

postmount, 163 

Cantilever brakes, 16, 22, 31, 41, 

147–148, 149, 150, 151, 175–180, 

411 

curved-face, 183 


sidepull, 417 

Cantilevers, 147, 148, 150, 151, 152, 

194, 417 

Carbon-grip compound, 9 

Cartridge bearings, 103, 133–136, 

208, 219, 231, 276, 279, 280, 

286, 358, 359, 411 

angular-contact, 277, 278, 281 


lubricating, 31 

See also Ball bearings 

Cartridge-removal tool, 340 

Cartridges, 208, 352 

air inflation, 35 

Centering, 126, 178–179, 301–303 

Chain cleaners, 26, 53–54 

Chain elongation, checking for, 

55–56, 67, 69 

Chain-elongation gauges, 3, 55–56, 

69 

Chain gap, 78–79 

Chain keepers, 7 

Chain length, determining, 57–59, 73 

Chain links, 411 

loosening, 67 

replacing, 38, 56, 60 

spacing between, 66 

spare, 13 

tight/stiff, 66, 67 

twisted, 36–38 

Chain retention devices, 100–101 

Chain stops, 110 

Chain suck, 66–67, 107, 201, 370, 411 

Chain tensioner, 101 

Chain tools, 2–3, 12, 33, 38, 42, 56, 

59, 61, 62 

Chain whips, 6, 7, 138, 139, 140, 141, 

142, 411 

Chainlines, 85, 107–108, 224, 411 

measuring, 108–110 

Chainring bolts, 195, 201, 202, 222 

Chainring-cassette removal tools, 6 

Chainring-nut tools, 6, 202, 411 

Chainrings, 27, 37, 42–45, 51, 53, 55, 

57, 58, 60, 64, 65, 195, 197–202, 

216, 411 

bent, 201 

chainstays and, 223–225 

cleaning, 26, 66, 200 

inner, 109, 223 

inspecting, 66, 200–201 

installing, 66, 202 

jammed chains and, 36 

loose, 221 

maintaining, 200 

middle, 10 

spindles and, 209 

worn, 200 

Chains, 411 

assembling, 51–52 

broken, 38, 54, 56, 57, 59 

cleaning, 26–27, 52–55, 66 

connecting, 57, 59–61 

dropping, 110, 370 

jammed, 15, 36–38, 370 

lubricating, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 

51–54, 66, 67, 74, 105, 254 


measuring, 140 

removing, 27, 44, 45, 54–57, 63 

replacing, 55, 62, 67, 68, 74, 150 

Shimano, 26, 56, 59, 60–61, 62 

skipping, 67, 107, 370 

slapping, 370, 372 

squeaking, 67 

SRAM, 54, 56, 61, 62 

troubleshooting, 66–69 

with twisted link, 37–38 

wiping, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52–53, 67 

Wippermann, 37, 54, 56, 62, 67, 69 

Chainstays, 23, 40, 43, 65, 66, 74, 

81, 102, 103, 109, 159, 213, 349, 

361, 367, 411 

chain suck and, 67 

chainrings and, 223–225 

jammed chains and, 36 

Circlips, 208, 211, 212, 220, 313, 327, 

336 

Clamps, 58, 81, 82, 83, 254, 255, 276 

cylindrical, 182 

saddle, 245, 246 

seatpost, 31, 46, 253, 254 

split, 153 

See also Stem clamps 

Cleats, 226, 230 

adjusting, 227–229, 240 

installing, 227–229 

loose, 239–240 

Clunking noises, problems with, 

222–223, 372

Cog-wear indicator gauge, 11 

Cogs, 51, 55, 58, 64, 73, 74, 75, 77, 

78, 79, 108, 111, 127, 137–146, 

209, 411 

cassette, 138–141 

checking, 67–68 

cleaning, 26, 53, 138, 139, 140 

removing, 68, 102, 138, 139, 140, 

145–146 

replacing, 68, 139, 140, 141 

worn, 67, 139, 140 

Compression, 316, 357, 358, 361 

Compression damping, 321–322, 

362, 365, 366, 411 

adjusting, 316, 323, 325, 364 

Compression rings, 273, 276, 278 

Concentric-pivot systems, 43, 65, 

102 

Cones, 6, 127, 128–133, 213–216, 

221, 222, 223, 236, 237, 409, 411 

Crank bolts, 195, 197, 199, 200, 222, 

411 

Crank extraction tools, 197 

Crank pullers, 6, 195, 198 

Crankarms, 84, 195, 197–202, 210, 

211, 216, 217, 221, 225, 226, 227, 

244, 363, 385, 411 

length/determining, 388 

loose, 222–223 

removing/installing, 202, 212, 

215, 218 

Cranks 

custom, 388 

hard-to-turn, 223 

integrated-spindle, 195, 197, 

198–199, 203, 204, 205 

length, 390, 411 

removing/installing, 195, 197–200 

Shimano, 197, 199, 202, 207 

square taper, 197, 199 


Cranksets, 195, 210, 412 

BB30: 204, 219 

external-bearing, 207 


three-piece, 197, 199, 203, 204, 

207–209 

Truvativ, 209, 210, 218, 219 

two-piece, 203, 207 

Creaking noises, 372 

bottom bracket, 221–222 

crank, 221–222 

handlebar, 287 

pedaling, 207, 239–240 

seatpost, 254 



Crowfoot sockets, 11, 412 

Crown-race punches, 285 

Crown-race removers, 11, 283, 284 

Cup removal tools, 7 

Cups, 412 

adjustable, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409 

bearing, 207, 211, 212, 409 

bottom bracket, 30, 83, 213, 217, 

223, 350 

fixed, 214, 413 

Damping, 318, 357, 412 

adjusting, 325–326, 327, 334 

changing oil and, 336–338, 

355–356 

compression, 316, 321–322, 323, 

325, 362, 364, 365, 366, 411 

hydraulic, 262, 309–310, 314 

preload, 363–364 

pressurizing, 358 

rebound, 318, 320–321, 323, 325, 

361, 362, 364, 365, 366, 416 

Damping adjusters, 326, 327, 334, 

365 

Damping systems, 325, 336–338 

Derailleur cages, 42, 68, 84, 107 

Derailleur-hanger alignment tools, 

11, 68, 349 

Derailleurs, 23, 27, 47, 57, 71–80, 

80–85, 209, 412 

adjusting, 68, 71, 74–80, 83–85, 

200 

bent, 43, 68, 107 

bottom-pull/top-pull, 82 

broken, 71, 103 

bypassing, 44 

cables and, 82, 85, 92–94 

chain length and, 57 

disassembling, 88, 106 

down-swing, 81 

E-type, 81, 82–83, 209, 213, 223 

installing, 73–74, 82–83 

lubricating, 30, 105 

maintaining, 26, 53, 103–106 

positioning, 83, 84, 107 

repairing, 42–44 

replacing, 69, 79, 105, 106 

Shimano, 45, 46, 71, 73, 74–75, 

76, 77, 79, 82–83, 84, 87, 88, 92, 

106, 107, 213 

spokes and, 370, 372 

SRAM, 78, 82, 87, 106, 107 

top-swing, 81, 224 


worn, 67, 107 

Disc-brake pads, checking/replacing, 

155–157 

Disc brakes, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 152, 

155–164, 166–175, 192, 412 

adjusting, 158–164, 166 

cable-actuated, 155 

installing, 158–164, 166 


Dishing, 301–303, 349, 367, 412 

Dishing tools, 7, 301, 302, 412 

Drills, 11 

Drivetrains, 60, 65, 74, 101, 107, 292, 

412 


wear/tear on, 55 

Dropout-alignment tools, 11, 341– 

343, 342, 344, 367–368 

Dropout Saver, 351 

Dropouts, 18, 20, 23, 24, 65, 66, 71, 

73, 78, 102, 109, 128, 309, 311, 

349, 412 

aligning, 68, 342–343, 344, 366 

aluminum/titanium, 368 

bent, 80, 312, 344 

bolt-on, 367 

inspecting, 348 

sliding, 58 

spacing, 341, 342 

thickness of, 351 

Duct tape, 14 

Dust caps, 144, 199, 200, 236, 237, 

239, 412 

Dust covers, 143, 237 

Easy-outs, 354, 412 

Elastomers, 249, 262, 309, 311, 314, 

315, 318, 319, 324–326, 327, 

331, 361, 412 

End caps, 86, 152, 410, 412 

Fasteners, torque for, 396–407 

(table) 

Feeler gauges, 11 

Files, 6 

Firmly tightened, 29, 395 

Foot pounds (ft-lbs), Newtonmeters 

and, 397 

Fork braces, 311, 315 

Fork-crown race punch, 7 

Fork-crown race remover, 283 

Fork-crown races, 281, 282–284, 

285–286 

Fork crowns, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 

315, 413 

clamping, 268 

INDEX 

425

426 

fork legs and, 316, 327–328 

Fork legs, 40, 309, 311, 315, 325 

damaged, 313 

fork crowns and, 316 

removing, 327–328 

telescoping, 310 

Fork rake, 309, 413 

Fork travel, 319 

changing, 323, 338-339 

measuring, 315–317 

Forks, 16, 18, 115, 289, 310, 317, 413 

air-sprung, 312, 326–327 

alignment of, 312, 313, 314, 318, 

341–344 

aluminum, 314, 343 

carbon-fiber, 314, 343 

coil-spring, 311, 319, 324–326, 327 

double-crown, 327, 328, 330 

failure of, 311, 312 

headset installation and, 284–285 

high-end, 321, 331 

inspecting, 311–313, 313–314 

linkage, 312, 314 


maintaining, 313–314, 314–315 

Manitou, 34, 159, 331 

movement of, 321, 322 

overhauling, 314, 330–331, 

334–336 

rebound damping and, 321 

removing, 277, 280, 282, 330–331, 

341 

rigid, 309, 313–314, 344 

RockShox, 326, 327, 328, 337, 

338–339, 340, 357 

SID, 326, 327, 337 

single-crown, 327, 328 

steel, 341, 344 

stuck stems in, 287 

suspension, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 

263, 282, 284, 309, 310, 313, 

314, 314–315, 317–324, 330, 

384, 386 

telescoping, 310, 312, 314 

threaded, 265–266, 267, 312 

titanium, 314, 343 

triple-clamp, 327–328, 330 

tuning, 314, 315, 317–327 

upside-down, 419 

Frame size 

body measurements and, 

385–388 

correct, 384–385 

finding, 383, 386–387 

Frames, 31, 208, 212, 289, 413 




alignment of, 366–368 

carbon, 347, 348 

cleaning, 348 

designing, 345, 347 

diamond, 345, 412 

headset installation and, 284–285 

suspension, 101–102, 347, 358– 

361, 368, 386, 389, 390 

types of, 249, 347 

Freehubs, 78, 134, 137–146, 413 

disassembling, 144 

lubricating, 142–146 

overhauling, 111 


seized, 47 

solvents and, 142, 144 

Freewheel removers, 7, 141 

Freewheels, 127, 137–146, 413 



replacing, 68, 111, 141 

seized, 47 

Front triangles, 345, 347, 349, 413 

Gauges, 56, 57, 68 

Gear development, 375–381 

for 26-inch wheels, 376–378 

(table) 

for 29-inch wheels, 381–383 

(table) 

Gloves, 13, 55 

Grease, 4, 13, 137, 201 

molybdenum disulfide, 94 

nonlithium, 6, 92, 97, 335 

silicone-based, 6 

Slick Honey, 251, 335, 355, 357, 

359 

Teflon, 92, 97 

Grease guns, 6, 136, 142 

Grip Shifts, 29, 78, 94, 95, 107, 258, 

413 

long/short, 97, 98 


replacing, 96–97 

Grips, 111, 255, 266 

installing, 95–96, 257–258 

removing, 95–96, 153, 257, 258 

trimming, 258 

Hacksaw, 6 

Hammers 

ball-peen, 6, 7 

soft, 7 

Handlebar height, 385, 388, 389–390 

adjusting, 266, 392 

Handlebar position, 242, 244, 263, 

266, 388–391 

Handlebar reach, 384–385, 388, 390 

Handlebar slips, 286–287 

Handlebars, 251, 255, 257, 258–260, 

273, 315, 325, 413 

broken, 47, 260, 287 

carbon, 154, 260, 393 

drop, 384–385 


knees and, 383, 384 

maintaining, 16, 259–260 

overtightened, 259, 393 

replacing, 258, 259–260, 266 

riser, 255, 391 

saddles and, 390 


twisting, 259, 266, 267 

types of, 260, 266 

undertightened, 393 

Hangers, 13, 43, 69, 78, 80, 366, 410, 

412 

alignment of, 349–350 

bent, 68, 107, 349–350 

brake-cable, 271, 281 

derailleur, 348, 349–350, 351 

straddle-cable, 184 

Head angles, 309, 413 

Head tubes, 277, 278, 282, 284, 286, 

367, 388, 413 

measuring, 268, 270 

Headlights, 14 

Headset cups, 286 


Headset presses, 7, 11, 285–286 

Headset rockets, 282 

Headsets, 255, 263, 270–286, 312, 

313, 413 

adjusting, 265, 268, 272–276, 279, 

282, 286, 287 

cartridge-bearing, 272 

cupless, 268, 277, 278, 282 


integrated, 270, 271, 274, 278, 

284, 414 

loose-ball, 278, 281 

loosening, 274–275 


overtightening, 275 

pitted, 275, 287 

press-in internal with lipped 

cups, 268 

replacing, 281, 282–284, 287 

semi-integrated, 270 

threaded, 273–276, 279–282, 418

threadless, 269, 270–272, 276– 

279, 285, 387, 390 

tight, 272–273, 274–275, 287 

traditional, 168, 270 


Hex keys, 12, 29, 47, 414 

metric, 2, 7, 20, 40, 41, 42 

HG-IG check tool, 68, 139 

Hose cutters, 11 

Housing, 76, 77, 82, 89, 90, 92, 148– 

152, 185, 193, 273, 410 

cutting, 11, 86, 153 

friction and, 150 

index-shift, 86 


lower-knuckle, 79 

lubricating, 30, 85, 94–95, 151, 152 

replacing, 30, 152 

sticky, 68 

Teflon-lined, 150, 151 

Hubs, 102, 103, 127–137, 231, 306, 

414 

assembling, 131–132 

cartridge-bearing, 127, 128, 

132–136 

cup-and-cone, 127, 128–133 

DT Swiss, 28, 125, 133, 134, 142, 

145 

front, 127, 292 

Grease Guard, 136–137 

high-end, 128, 136 

internal-gear, 101–103 

lubricating, 131–132 

overhauling, 111, 127–136 

replacing/flipping, 141–142 

sealed-bearing, 127, 128 

wheelbuilding and, 289, 291, 292, 

299 

Hydraulic brakes, 42, 99, 107, 148, 

150, 158, 166–173, 187–190, 

192, 193, 194, 414 

bleeding, 31, 166, 168, 170, 171, 

189–190 

disconnecting, 328 

replacing pads on, 189 

Hydraulic fluid, 158, 166, 167, 169, 

170, 171, 172, 173, 194 

Hydraulic oil, 325 

Inertial valves, 322, 325, 327, 365, 

414 

adjusting, 323, 364 

Inner legs, 310, 314, 327, 334, 335, 

336, 337, 339, 414 




Inner tubes, 114, 122, 123, 251 

finding leaks in, 115–116 

inflating, 35, 36 

installing, 36, 118–120 

patching, 36, 116 


spare, 2, 12–13, 34–35 

tying knots in, 35 

International Organization for 

Standardization (ISO), 117, 159 

Interrupted-seat-tube configurations, 

387, 388 

Jockey wheels, 27, 43, 58, 59, 68, 73, 

74, 78, 80, 414 

bolts, 106 

cartridge-bearing, 104–105 

lost, 44–45 


wiping, 26, 53 

Knee clearance, 384 

Lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299, 306 


radial, 304–305 

three-cross, 304–305 

Leaks 

finding, 115–116 

sealing, 122, 123, 124 

Leverage, 154–155, 166, 176, 177, 414 

Levers, 89, 90, 150, 170, 173 

lockout, 362, 364 

Shimano, 87–88, 99–100, 107, 155 

split-clamp, 153 

SRAM, 87, 95, 97, 155 

See also Brake levers; Quickrelease 

levers; Tire levers 

Lickton’s SuperLink, 61 

Limit screws, 73, 107 

adjusting, 46, 71, 74, 75–76, 78, 

84, 85 

Locknuts, 58, 133, 145, 146, 149, 152, 

237, 271, 273, 275, 281, 414 

loosening, 128–129, 132, 151, 274 


tightening, 132 

Lockouts, 316, 362, 364, 414 

Lockring tools, 6, 160 

Lockrings, 78, 140, 160, 207, 213, 

224, 414 

adjustable-cup, 223 


tightening, 215–216 

Loctite, 28, 68, 77, 136, 212, 222, 

231, 313 

Lubrication, 30–31, 128, 330 

ball bearing, 31, 131, 132, 281, 286 

cable, 30, 94–95, 107, 149, 150 

chain, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 51–54, 

66, 67, 74, 105, 254 

crankset, 31 

derailleur, 30, 105 

fork, 31, 314 

freehub, 142–146 

freewheel, 30, 146 

housing, 30, 85, 94–95, 151, 152 

hub, 131–132 

pedal, 31, 239–240 

piston, 173, 190 

quill, 281 

saddle, 31 

seatpost, 31, 254, 266, 348 

shifters, 30 

wheel, 30 

Magnet, 7 

Master cylinders, 173, 415 

Master links, 13, 33, 42, 54, 57, 

59–60, 61, 63–64, 67, 69, 415 

Matches, 14, 48 

Money, 14 

patching sidewalls with, 36 

Morningstar Drumstix tool, 175 

Morningstar Freehub Buddy, 7, 142, 

143, 144 

Morningstar Freehub Soup, 142, 

143, 144 

Morningstar Rotors on Center (ROC) 

dial-indicator tool, 10, 174–175 

Mounting bolts, 69, 105, 192, 415 

Mounts 

broken, 348 

disc-brake, 309, 351 

IS, 159, 313 

ISCG, 101 

Multitools, 12, 38 

Needle bearings, 279, 280, 415 

Newton-meters (N-m), foot-pounds 

and, 397 

Nipples, 124, 127, 290, 292, 293, 294, 

307–308, 415 

tightening/loosening, 125, 299, 

300, 301, 302, 303 

types of, 126, 291, 308 

O-rings, 144, 158, 164, 172, 337, 354, 

355, 357, 362–363 

Off-center rims (OCR), 292, 293, 308 

INDEX 

427

428 

Outer legs, 310, 312, 315, 323, 328, 

330, 334, 415 

Oversteering, 319, 322, 324 

Overtightening, 259, 272, 275, 393 

Pad spacers, 12, 190 

Pad swing, 182 

Pad-to-rim adjustment, 176–178, 

187, 189, 192 

Pad twist, 182 

Parts washer, 7 

Patch glue, 116 

Patch kits, 2, 12, 34–35, 36, 116 

Patches, 35, 36 

applying, 116–118 

Pedal overlap, 385, 415 

Pedal platforms, 317, 321, 322, 325, 

362 

Pedaling, 308, 311, 317, 322 

creaking with, 207, 375 

knee/joint pain while, 240 

resistance while, 58, 371 

stance, 415 

Pedals, 235, 415 

cage-type, 225 

cartridge-bearing, 238–239 

clip-in, 225, 226, 227–231,234, 

236, 240, 371, 411 

clunking by, 371 

Crank Brothers, 228, 229, 230, 

234, 238, 239 

flat, 225 

installing, 226–227, 239 

Look, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232–233, 

234, 235, 238 

loose-bearing, 31, 236–237, 

lubricating, 31, 239–240 

Onza, 230–231, 238 

overhauling, 231–232, 234–239 

play in, 223, 371 

release tension for, 227, 229–231, 

371 


Ritchey, 232, 235, 238, 239 

Scott, 235 

Shimano, 231, 232, 234, 235 

Speedplay, 229, 231, 234, 235, 240 

Time, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 234, 

235, 238, 239, 240 


Pedro’s Green Fizz, 24 

Pedro’s Ice, 31 

Pedro’s Syn Lube, 30 

Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, 145 

Pin spanners, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221, 




415 

Pistons, 166, 337, 338, 356, 358 


disc-brake, 157–158 


pushing back, 157–158 

Pivot bolts, 415 

Pivots, 154, 155, 194, 312, 313, 415 

bushing, 31 

derailleur, 69, 79 

loose, 107 



overhauling, 105 

Pliers, 2, 14, 37 

Channel-lock, 6 

master-link, 7, 63, 64 

snapring, 6 

Vise-Grip, 63 

Postmounts, 159, 161, 163, 309, 313, 

351 

PowerLink, 61, 63, 64 

Preload, 319, 322, 324, 362, 363 

Preload adjusters, 331, 362, 

363–364 

Press fit systems, 204, 205, 220 

ProGold ProLink, lubricating with, 

51, 67 

Pulling, problems with, 369 

Pumps, 2, 12, 35, 124 

floor, 120 

shock, 4, 12, 326 

Punctures, 15, 16 

fixing, 34–36 

preventing, 33–34 

snakebite, 34, 35, 120, 124 

Quick-release (QR), 416 

Quick-release (QR) levers, 148, 188 

Quick-release (QR) seatpost binders, 

248, 388 

Quick-release (QR) skewers, 20, 22, 

34, 45, 139, 142, 342 

checking, 15 


opening, 17–18 



Quills, 265, 416 


Race Face, 197, 199, 210, 416 

Races, 127, 136, 409, 416 

fork-crown, 281, 282–284, 

285–286 

Rags, 4 

Rattling noises, 287 

Really tight, 30, 396 

Reamers, 11 

Rear triangles, 43, 65, 102, 342, 345, 

416 

Rebound damping, 318, 320–321, 

361, 362, 364, 416 

adjusting, 321, 323, 325, 365, 366 

Release tension adjustment, 227, 

229–231, 240, 371 

Ride height. See Sag 

Rim strips, 35, 118, 121 

Rims, 16, 121, 149, 150, 416 

bent, 41, 111 

brake pads and, 40–41 

cleaning, 192–193, 303 

deep-section, 112 

disc-brake, 301 

drilling, 308 

examining, 120 

off-center, 292, 293, 308 

replacing, 291 

scraping, 125, 299, 300 

spokes and, 124–127 

tubeless, 293 

wheelbuilding and, 289, 292, 294 

Roller-cam brakes, 17, 150, 190, 

191–192, 194, 416 

Rotors, 127, 304 

bent, 175 

bolting, 160–161 

cleaning, 193 

installing/removing, 159–161 

splined, 159, 160, 161 

truing, 41–42, 174–175 

Rubbing alcohol, 4, 257 

Rubbing noises, problems with, 373 

Saddle height, 240, 243, 248, 388 

Saddle position, 242, 244, 246, 247, 

253, 388–389 

Saddles, 391, 416 

adjusting, 243 

choosing, 241–242 

clamping, 245 

handlebars and, 390 

installing, 245–246, 247–248 



shape/design of, 242 

troubleshooting problems with, 

253–254 

Sag, 315, 319, 324, 361, 366, 416 

measuring, 316–317, 318

setting, 362–363 

Saw guide, 263 

Scraping noises, problems with, 373 

Screwdrivers, 12, 42, 43, 45, 46 

bent-shaft spoke-nipple, 10 

Phillips-head, 2 

Sealants, 9, 16, 34, 35, 120, 122–124, 

417 

aerosol, 123 

glycol-based, 122, 123 

latex-based, 122 

tubeless tires and, 121, 123–124 

Seals, 173, 178, 216, 217, 328, 330, 

356, 357, 359 

bearing, 136, 277 



quad, 355 


square, 158, 355 

Seat bags, 33, 42 

Seat tubes, 45, 80, 82, 248, 249, 254, 

367, 416 

length of, 386, 387 

Seatpost clamps, 31, 46, 253 


Seatposts, 241, 243, 384, 389, 417 

adjusting, 249–251 

aluminum, 245, 252, 253, 254 

broken, 47 

carbon, 245, 251–252 

Crank Brothers, 249, 250, 251, 388 

extensions, 244 

GravityDropper, 249, 250, 251, 388 

height-adjustable, 249–251, 388 


lubricating, 31, 254, 348 

maintaining, 244–245 

Maverick, 249, 250, 251 

position of, 244, 250 

removing, 46, 244, 248, 251–253 

single-bolt, 246 

stuck, 251–253 

suspension, 244–245, 249, 254 

troubleshooting problems with, 

253–254 

two-bolt, 246, 247 

Seatstays, 23, 65, 349, 367, 417 

Setscrews, 29, 79, 98, 106, 133, 185, 

186, 191, 248, 331, 349 

Shifters, 92, 95–103, 255 

adjusting, 74–80, 83–85 

derailleurs and, 107 

dual-lever trigger, 152 

friction, 413 



indexed, 76–78, 414 


maintaining, 97–103 

removing, 258 

replacing, 90–91, 96 

Shimano, 77, 88, 96, 177, 416 

SRAM, 90–91, 95, 107 

thumb, 87–88, 97, 100, 418 


twist, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99, 103, 

153, 154, 419 

Shifting, 371 

adjusting, 73 

checking, 16 

optimizing, 78, 95 

ramps, 200 

Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD), 

226 

Shimmying, 369 

Shims, 78, 82, 163, 356, 417 

Shocks, 310, 356, 358, 363 

air, 361, 362 

coil spring, 361 

deflating, 353 

downhill courses and, 365–366 

elastomer, 361, 362 

inspecting, 348–349 


maintaining, 352, 353 


saddle, 241 

Shoes, 225, 228 

Shop, well-stocked, 9–11 

Shuddering, while braking, 183 

Sidewalls, 114 

patching, 36, 121, 122, 124 

Skewers, 133, 135, 417 

bolt-on, 18, 20 

quick-release, 15, 17–18, 19, 20, 

22, 34, 45, 128, 132, 139, 141, 

142, 342 

tightening, 19, 20 

Slick Honey grease, 251, 335, 355, 

357, 359 

Slime, 34, 417 

Snug, 29, 395 

Solvents, 130 

citrus, 53, 54, 55, 105, 135, 221, 

277, 280 

freehubs and, 142, 144 

using, 26–27, 54 

Spacers, 128, 132, 157, 159, 213, 263, 

265, 274, 276, 278, 279, 315, 

323, 417 

adding, 209 

internal, 339–340 

removing, 129 

Spacing, 66, 149, 166, 341, 342, 344, 

349 

brake pad, 158 

crank-to-frame, 224 

pad-to-rotor, 163 

problems/remedying, 77–78 

Spanners, 417 

pin, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221, 415 

toothed-lockring, 29 

Spiders, 102, 201, 417 

Spindle removal tool, 6 

Spindles, 109, 210, 227 

bottom-bracket, 66, 203, 209, 

211–212, 223 

chainrings and, 209 


integrated, 195, 197, 198–199, 203, 

204, 205, 216, 217 

pedal, 6, 227 

splined, 207 

square-taper, 207 

upgrading, 239 

Splines, 29, 140, 141, 160, 207, 417 

Spoke calculator, 290, 291 

Spoke-prep compound, 291 

Spoke tension, 10, 124, 292, 301 

reducing, 308 

Spoke-tension gauge, 10 

Spokes, 76, 290, 417 

adjusting, 39, 40, 127, 299, 300, 

301, 302, 303 

broken, 39–40, 41, 124, 126–127 

converging parallel, 299 

crossing, 299, 307 

derailleurs hitting, 370 

first set of, 293–294, 305 

fourth set of, 297–299, 306 

Kevlar, 40 

lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299 

length of, 290 

prestressing, 302, 303 

pulling, 293, 303, 308 

radial, 308 

replacing, 38–40, 126–127, 291 

rims and, 124–127 

second set of, 294–295, 305–306 

spare, 13, 40 

thickness, 290, 307–308 

third set of, 296–297, 306 

twisted, 125 

weaving, 126–127 

Spoking patterns, 308 

one-cross, 289, 291, 306–307 

INDEX 

429

430 

radial, 291, 293, 303–305 

three-cross, 289, 291, 297, 304– 

306, 418 

two-cross, 289, 291, 306–307 

Spring preload, 318, 319, 324, 363, 

417 

Spring rate, 318, 319, 320, 324, 362, 

365 

adjusting, 108, 323, 366 

Spring tension, 178–179, 191 


Springs, 230, 356, 365, 366, 417 

air, 251, 314, 324 

coil, 314, 315, 319, 320, 324–325, 

331 

increasing tension of, 66 

negative, 326, 327, 363 

positive, 326 


soft, 318 

stiff, 318 

Squeaking noises, 372, 373 

with saddles, 254 

Squealing noises, 373 

with breaking, 157, 373 

Stand-over height, 345, 383, 384, 

386, 387, 418 

“Stan’s No Tubes” tubeless system, 

120–121, 418 

Star-nut installation tools, 7, 274 

Star nuts, 263, 264, 274, 279, 418 

Steering 

axis, 309, 418 

stiff, 372 

systems, 111, 255 

Steering-tube overlap, 263, 278 

Steering tubes, 267, 268, 270, 271, 

273, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280, 

281, 283, 284–285, 309, 310, 

311, 418 

carbon, 263, 264, 274 

clamping, 282 

cutting, 285 

fork alignment and, 341, 342–343, 

344 


stripped threads on, 313 

stuck stems in, 287 

threaded, 260, 312, 313 

threadless, 260, 262–265, 312 

Stem bolts, 265, 282, 287 

Stem clamps, 259, 262, 263, 265, 

268, 270, 279, 287, 312 

spreading, 267 





Stem length, 263, 285, 388, 390, 418 

Stem wedges, 265, 270 

Stems, 255, 260, 262–268, 273, 275, 

278, 285, 418 

adjusting, 262–266, 268, 385 

broken, 266 

checking, 16 

clamp-type, 262, 267 

front-opening, 258 


quill-type, 265, 281, 416 

removing, 260, 262, 265, 266–268, 

280 

stuck, 266–268, 287 

suspension, 262 

torque on, 393 


Stopscrews, 45, 80 

Straddle cables, 190–191, 418 


Subpins, 57, 59, 60, 61 

Suspension, 111 

aligning, 343 

cables and, 150 

fork, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 263, 282, 

284, 309, 310, 313, 314–315, 

317–324, 330, 384, 386 

frame, 101–102, 347, 358–361, 

368, 386, 389, 390 


problems with, 372 

rear, 43, 47, 81, 108, 128, 147, 318, 

347, 361–365 

seatpost, 244–245, 249, 254 

stem, 262 

tuning, 361–365 

Swingarms, 23, 82, 347, 348–349, 

351, 358, 363, 367, 418 

Syringes, 7, 171, 189, 190, 338 

Talcum powder, 2, 118 

Tension gauge, 66 

Third Eye Chain Watcher, 110 

Threadlock compound, 201, 293, 

313, 330, 394 

Threads 

fixing damaged, 350 

prepping/tightening, 27–28 

Through-axles, 20–22, 23, 128 

quick-release, 20, 21 

removing/installing wheels with, 

20 

Thumb shifters, 97, 100, 418 

replacing cable in, 87–88 

Tight, 29, 395 

Tightness, 29–30, 393 

Tire beads, 114, 115, 119, 120, 121, 

418 

Tire inflators, 13, 267 

Tire levers, 2, 12, 114, 158, 418 

Tire pressure, 6, 16, 120, 318 

Tires 


deflating, 113, 116, 120, 123, 124 

diameter of, 375 

flat, 15, 16, 33–34, 112, 372, 374 

inflating, 113, 120, 122, 124 


removing, 111–112, 114, 115, 342 

size of, 117 

standard, 120–121, 122 

tubeless, 34, 111, 114, 115, 116, 

120–121, 122, 123–124 

Toeclips, 225 

Toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194 

Tool kits 

Level 1: 1–4, 14 

Level 2: 1, 4, 6 

Level 3: 1, 7, 9 

Tools, 1, 31, 54, 90, 163, 223, 417 

carrying/while riding, 11–14, 33, 

48 

Enduro, 218, 219 

Mavic, 216 

Phil Wood, 218 

Shimano, 61, 62, 199, 285 

terminology of, 72 

Top tubes, 387, 388, 419 

Torque, 199, 200, 419 

for fasteners, 396–407 (table) 

measuring, 393, 395 

recommendations on, 397 

setting, 394 

tightening, 29–30, 395 

Triple-clamp forks, 327–328, 330 

Truing, 41, 124, 127, 303 

lateral, 125, 299–301 

radial, 301 

side-to-side, 301 

Truing stands, 7, 124, 126, 299, 300, 

301, 302 

Tubes. See Inner tubes 

Tubing cutters, 11 

Twist shifters, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99, 

103, 153, 154, 419 

U-brakes, 16, 22, 148, 190–191, 194, 

419 

Understeering, 322, 324 

Undertightening, 393

V-brakes, 16, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 

149, 152, 154, 155, 183, 190, 

194, 419 




parallel-push, 178, 179 

Valve core removers, 7, 357, 358 

Valve cores, 113, 123, 356, 357 

Valve extenders, 112, 113 

Valve stems, 113, 114, 115, 119, 120 

Valves, 115, 120 

broken, 35 

Presta, 34, 45, 112, 113, 114, 115, 

118, 121, 123, 415 

Schrader, 4, 34, 112, 115, 251, 320, 

326, 327, 353, 416 

Vibrations, braking and, 369 

Vise, 6, 7 

Vise grip, 6 

Vise whips, 7, 138, 139, 141, 142, 419 



Wheel-retention devices, 21, 419 

Wheelbuilding, 40, 289–290, 303, 

307–308 

custom, 289 

disc-brake, 291 

front, 291, 293, 294 

rear, 291, 293 

Wheels, 343 

bent, 38–41, 369 

for big riders, 307–308 

centering, 301–303 

disc-brake, 291, 292, 294, 303, 

305–306 

heavy-duty, 289 


prestressing, 302 

removing/installing, 16, 17–24, 

111, 115, 128, 133, 150, 163, 166, 

341, 342, 367 

straightening, 38–41 

truing, 40, 124–126, 299–301 

Wire, 14 

Wrenches 

adjustable, 2, 37, 113 

Allen, 29, 409 

cone, 6, 128, 132 

crowfoot, 11, 412 

fixed-cup, 223 

headset, 6, 14, 274 

metric, 2, 20 

open-end/box-end, 2, 12, 29 

pedal, 13-14, 226 

socket, 6, 29, 417 

soft, 7 

splined, 7, 9, 29 

spoke, 4, 7, 13, 39, 40, 41, 124, 

291, 299 

torque, 7, 20, 200, 210, 229, 312, 

393–394, 419 

Torx, 6, 12, 29, 42, 201, 202, 419 

Y-, 9 

INDEX 

431

About the author 

Lennard Zinn is a bike racer, frame builder, and technical writer. He grew up cycling, skiing, whitewater 

rafting, and kayaking—as well as tinkering with mechanical devices—in Los Alamos, New Mexico. After 

receiving his physics degree from Colorado College, he became a member of the U.S. Olympic Development 

Cycling Team. He went on to work in Tom Ritchey’s frame-building shop and has been producing custom 

mountain, road, and triathlon frames, as well as custom cranks and stems, at Zinn Cycles since 1982 

(www.zinncycles.com). 

Zinn has been writing for VeloNews since 1989 and is the magazine’s senior technical writer. Other books 

by Zinn are Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (VeloPress, 3rd ed. 2009), Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes 

(VeloPress, 2007), Zinn’s Cycling Primer (VeloPress, 2004), Mountain Bike Performance Handbook (MBI, 1998), 

and Mountain Bike Owner’s Manual (VeloPress, 1998). 

ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATOR 

Todd Telander is a former mechanic and bike racer who devotes most of his time these days to artis- 

tic endeavors. He attended the University of California at Santa Cruz, and while earning degrees in 

Environmental Studies and Biology, he completed a graduate-level program in scientific illustration. 

He has since studied fine art in several western states and was awarded an artist’s residency at Rocky 

Mountain National Park. In addition to drawing bike parts, he paints and draws wildlife and landscapes 

for publishers, museums, design companies, and individuals. You can see more examples of his work on 

his website, www.toddtelander.com. 


Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved

Also available from VeloPress 

Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance 

3rd Edition 

Lennard Zinn applies his prodigious powers of mechanical expertise to the art and science of 

road bike repair. Newcomers and experienced mechanics alike will benefit from the book’s 

hundreds of illustrations (including exploded views of how components go together), its step-bystep 

instructions for basic and advanced repair, and Zinn’s practical, time-saving maintenance 

tips. Covers new and old bikes alike. 

440 pages • $24.95 

ISBN 978-1-934030-42-4 

Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes 

Aerodynamics, Bike Fit, Speed Tuning, and Maintenance 

More than a repair manual, Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes presents proven techniques to wring 

more speed from today’s triathlon bicycles. With clear advice on bike fit and comfort, getting 

aero, tuning for speed, and choosing wisely among equipment upgrades, the tips in this book 

virtually guarantee faster bike splits. Of course, Zinn includes comprehensive maintenance and 

repair instructions too, accompanied by more than 300 illustrations and step-by-step directions 

to ensure trouble-free rides. 

352 pages • $24.95 

ISBN 978-1-931382-97-7 

Zinn’s Cycling Primer 

Maintenance Tips & Skill Building for Cyclists 

Drawing upon the research of cycling experts around the world, Zinn’s Cycling Primer is a onestop 

guide for improving your riding skills. Covering all aspects of road and mountain cycling, 

Lennard Zinn shows you how to improve your bike fit and bike handling skills, as well as your 

training and recovery, injury prevention, core strength, and nutrition. Zinn also includes step-bystep 

instructions for basic road and mountain bike maintenance, repair, and upgrades. 

232 pages • $24.95 

ISBN 978-1-931382-43-4

Zinn & The Art Of Mountain Bike Maintenance - VeloPress

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