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July • 2006 IMSC students take a back seat - Irish American News

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<strong>July</strong> <strong>2006</strong> IRISH AMERICAN NEWS 45<br />

St. Louis Cardinals and Celts<br />

By Mike Danahey<br />

While the enemy of your enemy doesn’t necessarily have to be your<br />

friend, Chicago White Sox fans should have a special place in their<br />

South Side hearts for the St. Louis Cardinals and their followers.<br />

T-shirts hawked around “Busch III” (what some call the brand<br />

spanking retro-new ballpark) before the early June series with the<br />

Cubs prove the point: the North Siders are as reviled as a rival along<br />

the banks of the Mississippi as they are in Bridgeport.<br />

All of which means Pale Hose supporters should fi nd a trip to<br />

the Gateway City worth their while. And if you happen to be South<br />

Side <strong>Irish</strong> -- and are willing to make like urban Lewis and Clarks<br />

and explore beyond the redeveloping downtown – you can fi nd<br />

Celtic places for imbibing and enjoying.<br />

Cousins Kevin and Mike Danahey seeing Red.<br />

But <strong>back</strong> to America’s pastime -- the one played on a diamond,<br />

not served in pint glasses, if at least for a few paragraphs.<br />

Along with Cub contempt, the Sox and Cardinals share other<br />

things in common. Cardinal skipper Tony LaRussa once managed<br />

the White Sox. Sox workhorse pitcher Mark Buehrle hails from<br />

the Saint Louis area. And former Sox radio guy John Rooney now<br />

works Cards games.<br />

In fact, at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood (620 Market<br />

Street; phone: 314.421.1540; Web site: www.shannonsteak.com),<br />

just a very short walk from the stadium, named after and owned by<br />

the longtime Cardinal broadcaster) one of Buehrle’s autographed<br />

jerseys is on display in a glass case, along with a signed Wheaties<br />

box from the 2005 championship season. He’s friends with the<br />

Shannon family and donated the items to the restaurant’s extensive<br />

collection of (mostly Cardinal) memorabilia.<br />

Rooney, who wears his Sox World Series ring, frequently holds<br />

court in the upscale restaurant from which 550 AM, KTRS, the new<br />

talk radio home for the team, broadcasts a live remote after games<br />

(and for which you are supposed to have a dinner reservation to<br />

sit, listen and eat).<br />

Rooney is enjoying his new gig, and says that unlike Chicago with<br />

its divided Cubs-Sox loyalties, and football’s Bears seemingly taking<br />

precedence over all pro teams, St. Louis “is a baseball city.”<br />

While an <strong>Irish</strong> place in name and announcers’ names, if not<br />

menu, Shannon’s does, indeed, have snugs along with its steaks, the<br />

rooms named after players -- and where some come to dine.<br />

For fans more into pounding <strong>back</strong> a brew than fi ne dining, the<br />

eatery has an outdoor patio area with rock and dance music and<br />

fl owing taps for before and after-game festivities.<br />

There’s more of that noise to be found on the other side of the<br />

stadium, past home plate and an overpass. There you fi nd bars similar<br />

in feel to Wrigleyville (and if that’s your sort of thing you can<br />

cab it to Laclede’s Landing, a river front district fi lled with bars and<br />

restaurants and found on the Web at www.lacledeslanding.com).<br />

Actually, the places along and past the parking lots aren’t quite<br />

as yuppie as Cubland ones. The wall-to-wallness, the booming bad<br />

80s music make Kilroy’s, The Bird House and Al Hrabosky’s are<br />

more like college bars.<br />

The party palace closest to the overpass, at 618 S. 7th Street, is<br />

called Paddy O’s (Phone: 314.588.7313), and it does serve Guinness<br />

and Smithwicks along with the pretty much required assortment of<br />

Anheuser Busch products to be found in the company’s hometown.<br />

An actual <strong>Irish</strong> place, The Dubliner Bistro & Pub, is supposed to<br />

open at 1025 Washington Ave. downtown sometime this summer. The<br />

menu will include free range chicken, which as all true Hibernians<br />

know, is a staple of the <strong>Irish</strong> diet, right there with the potato.<br />

For other post game Celtic fun, a ride on the city’s one and only<br />

MetroLink is in order. A stop is close to the ballpark, and to the Central<br />

West End it’s only $1.75. From there you can walk about 15-20 minutes<br />

to a couple Welsh pubs, Llywelyn’s (4747 McPherson; phone 314-361-<br />

3003, Web site www.llywelynspub.com, and pronounced Lou Ellens)<br />

and Dressel’s Pub (419 N. Euclid; phone: 314 361-1060).<br />

Lou’s is the older of the two, and at least on a recent Tuesday evening,<br />

was serving Double Dragon and playing 70s and 80s music (which you<br />

can’t seem to get<br />

away from in most<br />

places in the Midwest).<br />

At one time<br />

this pub was owned<br />

by John Dressel,<br />

who sold it, then<br />

opened Dressel’s,<br />

which is just around<br />

the corner in the<br />

Central West End<br />

neighborhood (so<br />

called as it butts up<br />

against fabled Forest<br />

Park. One of the<br />

biggest urban parks<br />

in the United States,<br />

Forest Park is 500 acres larger than Central Park in New York.)<br />

Dressel’s is like a college bar, too -- for the smart kids and the<br />

professors. After all, Dressel’s GM Torre Alsup says the bar motto<br />

is “Where food loves drink and art and life embrace” -- which apparently<br />

is allowed, even though Missouri is a Red State.<br />

The walls are lined with portraits of artists, writers, poets, Welshman,<br />

and historical fi gures. Jazz music plays in the <strong>back</strong>ground<br />

when there isn’t a piano player or Celtic band. And the upstairs<br />

Gaslight Pub would be a great place to read James Joyce aloud<br />

while taking a shot of Jameson every time you can’t fi gure out what<br />

the hell he’s talking about.<br />

Speaking of whiskey -- or more correctly whisky -- another 20<br />

minute walk from Dressel’s is The Scottish Arms (6-10 S. Sarah St.;<br />

phone: 314.535.0551; Web site: www.thescottisharms.com) which<br />

way <strong>back</strong> in the day was an Italian watering hole.<br />

Another sign of St. Louis’ redevelopment, the Arms is about<br />

a year old, which makes it signifi cantly younger than most of the<br />

100 whiskies owner Alastair Nisbet keeps on hand. Those include<br />

88 single malts, among them a 1975, $800 bottle of Bowmore, the<br />

nectar of the Highlands.<br />

An Aberdeen expat, Nisbet is happy to show you the breathing<br />

technique for savoring whisky and to point out how water opens up<br />

its earthy fl avors. (Earthier still: the haggis fritters appetizer, a sweet<br />

beer batter coating organ meat, and the very fi lling Scottish eggs.)<br />

From the Arms, you can cab it to John D. McGurk’s, 1200 Russell<br />

(Phone: 314.776.8309; Web site: www.mcgurks.com) in Soulard<br />

(Soo Lard, like what you might call a really fat pig). This neighborhood<br />

is the home of the city’s Mardi Gras festivities, including an<br />

annual wiener dog race (no jokes about this being because of the<br />

two gay bars in the eclectic neighborhood, please).<br />

McGurk’s is as fi ne an <strong>Irish</strong> pub as you will fi nd in the Midwest,<br />

if just because they have live music every night. Waitress Megan<br />

Martin pointed out that McGurk’s’ even puts up the musicians at a<br />

house next door during their stay.<br />

Here you’ll fi nd a cozy kind of huge, with one of the rooms<br />

predating the Civil War -- and then you fi nd the beer garden, which<br />

is Louisiana Purchase big, and Dublin inviting.<br />

Speaking of a Dublin sort of place, in attitude if not “authentic”<br />

style, The Royale, 3132 S. Kingshighway (Phone: 314.772.3600;<br />

Web site: www.theroyale.com ) in the Tower Grove South neigh-<br />

borhood fi ts the bill. Pictures of JFK and his brother Bobby hang<br />

behind the bar, and a crowd of grad student types hangs out talking<br />

about bands and listening to left of the dial music.<br />

Proprietor Steven Fitzpatrick Smith dresses like he’s seen<br />

Swingers or knows Quentin Tarantino. He also manages a boxing<br />

club and can fi ll you in on the history of the <strong>Irish</strong> in St. Louis and<br />

neighborhoods such as Dogtown. That means Smith has stories<br />

and knows characters, and stories and characters are part of what<br />

make this an <strong>Irish</strong> place.<br />

Not far from the Missouri Botanical Garden nor from The<br />

Royale is the trad-<strong>Irish</strong> O’Connell’s Pub (4652 Shaw Ave; phone:<br />

314.773.6600; Web site: www.saucemagazine.com/oconnells).<br />

According to the Web site, O’Connell’s Pub fi rst opened in 1962,<br />

in an area known as Gaslight Square. It moved to the current building,<br />

which is more than 100 years old in the 1970s and which, like a lot of<br />

St. Louis, has ties to a chieftain of sorts named Henry Shaw.<br />

They fi lmed a Bud commercial here, more than likely because<br />

it has the feel of a nice neighborhood joint, even though<br />

it seems to sit on a lonely street.<br />

Continued to next page<br />

Dressel’s Pub

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