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Stone-Wash Treatment for Denim Garments

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LIPARI PUMICE AND THE HISTORY OF JEANS<br />

STONE WASH AND PUMICE<br />

In the last three decades there have been two decisive events in the history of jeans, both of which were not only driven by the influence of fashion,<br />

but also by the need to make denim garments more com<strong>for</strong>table and hence widely acceptable, <strong>for</strong> though denim was renowned <strong>for</strong> being<br />

extremely com<strong>for</strong>table, they were in reality not so. The first event regarded the abandoning of rivets, with the substitution of stitching, a problem<br />

which was solved with the help of great technical ef<strong>for</strong>ts (and special sewing machines), the second was STONE WASH.<br />

Pumice plays an important role in STONE WASHING. The introduction of Lipari Pumice in the STONE WASH process has above all improved<br />

productivity, i.e. the number of garments processed in a given time and wash volume, the parameters of which essentially determine the acceptability<br />

of the cost.<br />

STONE WASH is a washing procedure that use stones,<br />

mainly pumice, in order to obtain well defined effects.<br />

Every part of the jeans is effected; pockets, belt loops,<br />

stitching and edges all appear “worn and torn” as if the<br />

jeans might be a few years old.<br />

This is the technical difference between bleaching with<br />

sodium hypochlorite (an old method <strong>for</strong> obtaining a<br />

homogeneous discolouring effect) and the STONE<br />

WASH technique (a new procedure with a localized<br />

discolouring effect). Fashion trends may be the main<br />

reason <strong>for</strong> this process, but <strong>for</strong>tunately the material after<br />

STONE WASHING is also softer, more com<strong>for</strong>table and<br />

hence widely accepted.<br />

The resulting effects achieved with STONE WASHING,<br />

i.e. the localized discolouration, helps explain why all<br />

other attempts to directly process materials be<strong>for</strong>e garment<br />

manufacture, have not met with success, simple<br />

process such as high velocity rotating brushes, have not<br />

in the past and will not in the future ever have a lasting<br />

success.


THE ROLE OF LIPARI PUMICE IN STONE<br />

WASH<br />

As already anticipated, the success of Lipari<br />

Pumice in STONE WASH is essentially due to<br />

the increase in productivity. By using Lipari<br />

Pumice, one can process simultaneously a<br />

large quantity of garments, with an increase in<br />

productivity in the region of 20% to 30% with<br />

respect to pumice from alternative origins,<br />

which are almost always less dense and more<br />

brittle, but also frequently contain a high content<br />

of impurities that end up damaging a certain<br />

number of garments during the washing<br />

process. Hence Lipari Pumice helps decrease<br />

the total cost due to increased productivity,<br />

with less rejects and less rework.<br />

It is however difficult to calculate the<br />

effective consumption of pumice <strong>for</strong> jeans<br />

(kg / per garment), since one needs to<br />

account not only <strong>for</strong> the different garment<br />

size, but one must also take into account<br />

other factors:<br />

- The apparent density, porosity and buoyancy<br />

(or not) of the pumice<br />

- The type of washing machine<br />

- The ratio pumice to material<br />

- Percentage of water used in the machine<br />

washing (the lower the value, the<br />

higher the pumice consumption, and the<br />

faster the process cycle time).<br />

However taking into account the data and<br />

experience of STONE WASH customers,<br />

who find that it is possible to complete 4<br />

to 5 wash cycles with Lipari Pumice,<br />

given the average ratio of pumice to garment<br />

material as 2,5 : 1, and with the<br />

average pair of jeans weighing between<br />

700 gr to 900 gr., it is possible to calculate<br />

an average consumption of 350 gr. of<br />

Lipari Pumice per pair of jeans.

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