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30<br />
final coat<br />
By Jim Caruk<br />
PAINTING<br />
THE COMPLETE DOOR<br />
Just because the tops and bottoms of doors are rarely seen,<br />
you still need to paint them with extreme care<br />
T<br />
he difference between a professional painter<br />
and a jack-of-all-trades is in details and<br />
in the prep. It’s all about the care you take.<br />
For example, how many painters, honestly,<br />
take the time to always, without exception,<br />
paint the tops and bottoms of all doors – interior and exterior?<br />
I recently had this issue with a painter who did a job for<br />
me about four years ago. My client had about 30 interior<br />
doors, and they called me in to take a look at them. They<br />
sheen had come off the paint. They looked flat, as if the<br />
paint was just primer. It was a weird one. Repainting only<br />
temporarily solved the problem. We couldn’t figure out<br />
why this was happening. We even called the manufacturer<br />
of the doors.<br />
Eventually, we took one of the doors off of its hinges<br />
and realized that my painter – as good as he was – had<br />
not bothered to paint the top and bottoms. They were raw<br />
wood. Nobody was looking at these surfaces, he might<br />
have thought, who cares if they were left unpainted. But<br />
wooden doors will absorb moisture if they aren’t sealed<br />
on every surface. Most professional painters know this.<br />
You probably know this. But in a rush, it can be tempting<br />
to neglect this all-important detail.<br />
The effects of that moisture absorption can lead to<br />
warping, which is why so many door manufacturers won’t<br />
warranty a door’s performance if the unit is not sealed<br />
properly. But in some cases, the paint finish on the door<br />
can degrade, too, as I found out.<br />
The top and bottom (and, of course, edges) of wooden<br />
doors need to be sealed with a primer coat and at least<br />
two coats of paint, preferably oil (and preferably an oilbased<br />
primer).<br />
Now the next question you may have is, does this apply<br />
to MDF doors as well, or only to solid wooden doors? It<br />
probably is true that solid wooden doors are more likely<br />
to absorb moisture and deform from unpainted edges<br />
but, to get in the habit of purely professional painting at<br />
all times, why would you have an A game and a B game?<br />
Why not paint like a top professional at all times? Paint<br />
all the surfaces of your doors, whether they show or not.<br />
And that applies to the top of door trim! <strong>Painter</strong>s will<br />
leave the top of trim unpainted, too. I know, you wouldn’t<br />
do this. But some of your fellow painters will do it. Not<br />
the ones I want to work on my high-end work, and not<br />
the ones you’d want to work on your own home. <strong>Professional</strong><br />
painting is all about the details and the prep. And<br />
enjoying the feeling that comes from knowing you take<br />
meticulous care in your work, all the time.<br />
Jim Caruk, well-known TV and real life contractor,<br />
is the founder of Build It Yourself Learning Centers<br />
(www.biyworkshops.com).<br />
<strong>Professional</strong> <strong>Painter</strong> • Winter 2011