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30<br />

final coat<br />

By Jim Caruk<br />

PAINTING<br />

THE COMPLETE DOOR<br />

Just because the tops and bottoms of doors are rarely seen,<br />

you still need to paint them with extreme care<br />

T<br />

he difference between a professional painter<br />

and a jack-of-all-trades is in details and<br />

in the prep. It’s all about the care you take.<br />

For example, how many painters, honestly,<br />

take the time to always, without exception,<br />

paint the tops and bottoms of all doors – interior and exterior?<br />

I recently had this issue with a painter who did a job for<br />

me about four years ago. My client had about 30 interior<br />

doors, and they called me in to take a look at them. They<br />

sheen had come off the paint. They looked flat, as if the<br />

paint was just primer. It was a weird one. Repainting only<br />

temporarily solved the problem. We couldn’t figure out<br />

why this was happening. We even called the manufacturer<br />

of the doors.<br />

Eventually, we took one of the doors off of its hinges<br />

and realized that my painter – as good as he was – had<br />

not bothered to paint the top and bottoms. They were raw<br />

wood. Nobody was looking at these surfaces, he might<br />

have thought, who cares if they were left unpainted. But<br />

wooden doors will absorb moisture if they aren’t sealed<br />

on every surface. Most professional painters know this.<br />

You probably know this. But in a rush, it can be tempting<br />

to neglect this all-important detail.<br />

The effects of that moisture absorption can lead to<br />

warping, which is why so many door manufacturers won’t<br />

warranty a door’s performance if the unit is not sealed<br />

properly. But in some cases, the paint finish on the door<br />

can degrade, too, as I found out.<br />

The top and bottom (and, of course, edges) of wooden<br />

doors need to be sealed with a primer coat and at least<br />

two coats of paint, preferably oil (and preferably an oilbased<br />

primer).<br />

Now the next question you may have is, does this apply<br />

to MDF doors as well, or only to solid wooden doors? It<br />

probably is true that solid wooden doors are more likely<br />

to absorb moisture and deform from unpainted edges<br />

but, to get in the habit of purely professional painting at<br />

all times, why would you have an A game and a B game?<br />

Why not paint like a top professional at all times? Paint<br />

all the surfaces of your doors, whether they show or not.<br />

And that applies to the top of door trim! <strong>Painter</strong>s will<br />

leave the top of trim unpainted, too. I know, you wouldn’t<br />

do this. But some of your fellow painters will do it. Not<br />

the ones I want to work on my high-end work, and not<br />

the ones you’d want to work on your own home. <strong>Professional</strong><br />

painting is all about the details and the prep. And<br />

enjoying the feeling that comes from knowing you take<br />

meticulous care in your work, all the time.<br />

Jim Caruk, well-known TV and real life contractor,<br />

is the founder of Build It Yourself Learning Centers<br />

(www.biyworkshops.com).<br />

<strong>Professional</strong> <strong>Painter</strong> • Winter 2011

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