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The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
Editorial 18<br />
SRTEPC Sets Challenging Target Of US$ 7 Billion For The Year 2012-13 19<br />
Textiles Committee : A Facilitator For Quality Improvement in Indian Textile And Clothing Industry 20<br />
Multi Brand Retailing to Create Opportunities for T&C sector 24<br />
Arvind Acquires Debenhams, Nautica and Next Business in India 25<br />
Siyaram Set To Transform TheIndian Male Fashion With Free Fall Fabric For “Trousering” 25<br />
Trident conferred with “CITI Birla Award for Human Resource Management in Textile Mills” 26<br />
DIESEL launches Italian street wear brand 55DSL in India 26<br />
Dollar Industries Diversifies Into Lifestyle Apparels 27<br />
Successful Production Of Levafix Blue Ca 27<br />
Clariant Makes Sustainability Measurable For Textile Mills And Brands 28<br />
Euratex Strongly Disappointed with Pakistan’s Waiver Approval 29<br />
Cutting Through Eco-confusion 29<br />
Raymond Targets European Markets 30<br />
DYFI: Ready To Launch A Women's Denim Line 30<br />
Bombay Dyeing Is Looking At Re-Launching Its Textile Brand 31<br />
Dystar Colours Distribution Gmbh Opens New European Warehouse In Biebesheim 31<br />
With Lectra Fashion Plm, Baroque Streamlines Development And Communication For Moussy 32<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
17
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E D I T O R I A L<br />
Indian Apparel Industry Is Pinning Its<br />
Hopes On The Upcoming Festive Season<br />
Even as the economic slowdown in the West continues to<br />
impact garment and textile exports from India, the domestic front<br />
especially the retail segment continues hope for some positive<br />
cheer during the festive season. This, despite the fact, that many of<br />
them have been forced to put their expansion plans and<br />
investments on hold.<br />
While the period between May to September has seen poor<br />
sales, industry is pinning its hopes on the upcoming festive season.<br />
According to yarn, fabric and home textile players, the demand is<br />
certainly picking up ensuring higher capacity utilisation in the last<br />
one month. D K Nair, Secretary General of Confederation of<br />
Indian Textile Industry (CITI) says, textile players have witnessed<br />
an increase in orders which has led to higher capacity utilization.<br />
Things are not back to the good old days, but the situation is better<br />
now. But theirs is still a reason to worry, because demand is only<br />
being seen in certain segments like denim and cotton. India's<br />
garment exports fell by 10.5 per cent year-on-year to $1.1 billion<br />
(Rs 5,979 crores) in June due to weak export demand. Apparel<br />
Export Promotion Council (AEPC) figures reveal, exports stood at<br />
$1.2 billion (Rs 6,520 crores) in the same period last financial<br />
year.<br />
Interestingly, while on one hand denim and cotton players<br />
are expanding their capacities to cater to growing demand and on<br />
the other hand slowdown in retail is impacting it negatively. So<br />
though many players availed of the benefits of Technology<br />
Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) in the last few years to<br />
expand capacities, it is currently not being utilised. However, to<br />
improve the situation, TUFS is being made available for a longer<br />
period of time. “We are supporting the industry in every way, we<br />
are pushing for TUFS to be included in the 12th Five Year Plan,”<br />
said Panabaka Lakshmi, Minister of State for Textiles.<br />
For the current fiscal, export target is pegged at $40.5 billion<br />
(Rs 2,20,158 crores), which seems unachievable given the current<br />
economic situation in major export destinations like Europe and<br />
the US.<br />
Meanwhile, cotton textile segment too has been facing<br />
tough times with first cotton prices going above Rs 50,000 per<br />
candy (356 kg) a year and a half ago and later, cotton yarn spinning<br />
mills going on strike. By the time cotton prices corrected, most<br />
mills were in debt. As of now, around 300 textile companies have<br />
applied for debt restructuring of Rs 35,000 crores.<br />
Simultaneously, rising crude oil prices have made synthetic yarn<br />
costlier.<br />
Thus the bottom line is that the textile and apparel makers<br />
are facing tough times with So Indian Industry Is Pinning Its<br />
Hopes On The Upcoming Festive Season of Dasehra and Diwali<br />
18<br />
September-October 2012
SRTEPC NEWS - SYNTHETIC & RAYON TEXTILES EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL<br />
SRTEPC Sets Challenging Target Of US$ 7 Billion For The Year 2012-13<br />
Shri Vinod K. Ladia, Chairman, The Synthetic & Rayon<br />
Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) addressing<br />
th<br />
the 58 Annual General Meeting of the Council<br />
th<br />
in Mumbai on 10 September 2012.<br />
Mohammed and Hon'ble Union Minister of State for<br />
Textiles, Smt. Panaba ka Lakshmi. The Hon'ble Malaysian<br />
Minister of <strong>International</strong> Trade & Industry appreciated the<br />
initiative taken by the Council in organizing INTEXPO and<br />
hoped that it would go a long way in establishing Malaysia<br />
as a textile hub in the ASEAN region.<br />
Speaking on the promotional programme during the<br />
year 2012-13, the Chairman said that the landmark event of<br />
the year would be the INTEXPO in Pakistan which is being<br />
organized by the Council in Karachi and Lahore during<br />
October 2012. He further stated that Pakistan has emerged<br />
as the leading market for Indian man-made fibre textiles<br />
and the Exhibition would provide an excellent opportunity<br />
to further strengthen trade ties with our immediate<br />
neighbour. He further averred that INTEXPO Pakistan is<br />
The ambitious target of US $ 5.5 billion set by the being organized with the active support of the High<br />
Council for the year 2011-12 was not only achieved but Commission of India in Pakistan and the Karachi and<br />
surpassed informed Shri Vinod K. Ladia, Chairman, The Lahore Chambers of the Commerce & Industry and Trade<br />
Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council Development Authority of Pakistan.<br />
while addressing the Annual General Meeting in Mumbai<br />
on 10th September 2012. The Chairman said that despite Dwelling on the policy matters the Chairman said that<br />
the difficulties faced by Indian exporters in the overseas there is need for urgent stimuli by way of Policy support<br />
markets and unfavourable situation at home, exports of from the Government and the Council has suggested some<br />
Indian man-made fibre textiles touched Rs.26974 crores of the urgent measures to be taken in this regard to the<br />
(US$ 5699 million) during 2011-12 registering a growth Government including the Hon'ble Union Minister of<br />
almost 19%. Encouraged by the performance the Council<br />
has set a challenging target of US$ 7 billion for the year<br />
Commerce and Textiles.<br />
2012-13, said Shri Ladia. The Chairman elaborated that the Council has made a<br />
proposal to introduce an Additional Scrip of 5% to those<br />
The Chairman noted with satisfaction that exports of<br />
man-made fibre textiles during 2011-12 were directed to<br />
over 140 countries around the globe and Pakistan with<br />
Rs.2341 crores had emerged as the leading market for<br />
Indian man-made fibre textiles followed by United Arab<br />
Emirates (Rs.2341 crores) and Brazil (Rs.1867 crores).<br />
exporters who achieve incremental exports of a minimum<br />
25% growth during the remaining part of the financial year.<br />
Shri Ladia also pleaded for availability of funds at lower<br />
rate for the industry to make it competitive and extension of<br />
interest subvention to all sectors of the Indian textile<br />
industry irrespective of their size and investment.<br />
Talking about the promotional programmes the<br />
Chairman said that there has been substantial increase in<br />
exports of our items to those destinations where the Council<br />
organised promotional programmes such as Saudi Arabia,<br />
Kuwait, Colombia , Ecuador and Bangladesh.<br />
Shri Ladia pointed out that as suggested by the<br />
Council countries such as Algeria, Ukraine, Argentina,<br />
Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile and Bolivia were included under<br />
the Focus Market Scheme. He also urged the Government<br />
to include countries like Pakistan and Saudi Arabia which<br />
The Chairman informed that the highlight of the are the leading markets for Man made Fibre Textiles and<br />
promotional programmes during the year 2011-12 was the Mercosur countries like Brazil under the Focus Market<br />
INTEXPO Malaysia, the biggest ever Exposition of Indian<br />
textile and clothing in the ASEAN region organized during<br />
Scheme.<br />
November 2011 in which nearly 100 companies He also stressed the need for inclusion of Man Made<br />
participated. The event was organized in the wake of the fibre fabrics under the Focus Product Scheme. He opined<br />
signing of India Malaysia Comprehensive Economic that the MMF fabrics industry is labour intensive and<br />
Co-operation which opened up a myriad trade substantial manufacturing takes place in the un-organised<br />
opportunities for both the countries. INTEXPO Malaysia sector and result in employment generation. And thus there<br />
was jointly inaugurated by the Hon'ble Minister of is huge export potential for these fabrics and hence deserve<br />
<strong>International</strong> Trade & Industry, Dato' Sri Mustapa Bin encouragement, he added.<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
19
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
Textiles Committee : A Facilitator For Quality Improvement in<br />
Indian Textile And Clothing Industry.<br />
Dr P.Nayak ,Secretary, Textiles Committee,<br />
Government of India,Ministry of Textiles<br />
required; developing Test Methods, Providing guidance for<br />
selection of technical personnel and purchase of<br />
equipments etc.; Imparting training to the industry<br />
personnel on testing for mechanical, Chemical, Eco and<br />
Effluent parameters depending upon the requirement of the<br />
organization. Besides, Textiles Committee undertakes<br />
laboratory accreditation consultancy services also. The<br />
activities under the laboratory accreditation consultancy<br />
include guidance for the preparation of Quality Manual and<br />
other documents complying with the requirements of<br />
ISO/IEC-17025:2005 and their implementation; Imparting<br />
training on calibration of equipments and for ensuring<br />
traceability with standards of measurement; Guidance<br />
provided for conducting internal audit and calculating<br />
uncertainty measurement as required by NABL.<br />
Committee also conducts Inter Laboratory Proficiency<br />
Testing (ILPT) in which the textile testing laboratories not<br />
only from India but also from South East Asia also<br />
participate.<br />
1. What is the Textiles Committee’s role in promoting<br />
Indian Textile and Apparel industry’s interests?<br />
Textiles Committee's main objective is to ensure the<br />
quality of textiles and textile machinery both for internal<br />
consumption and export purposes. The Textiles<br />
Committee, as corollary to its main objective of ensuring<br />
the quality of textiles and textiles machinery has been<br />
entrusted with functions such as (I) undertaking, assisting<br />
and encouraging scientific, technological and economic<br />
research; (ii) establishing standard specifications for<br />
textiles and packing materials; (iii) establishing<br />
Cluster Development initiatives are taken up in three<br />
handloom clusters namely; Bijnore (U.P.), Shantipur<br />
(W.B.) and Trichy (T.N.) for capacity building of the<br />
stakeholders of the industry as part of the Government of<br />
India programme. This initiative helped to increase<br />
awareness amongst the handloom weavers and other<br />
stakeholders of the need for networking of services for the<br />
development of handlooms including development of<br />
marketing infrastructure for better quality of production for<br />
domestic and overseas markets.<br />
laboratories for the testing of textiles (iv) providing training<br />
in the techniques of quality control; (v) providing for the<br />
inspection and examination of textiles (vi) promoting<br />
export of textiles; (vii) collecting statistics; and (vii)<br />
advising the Central Government on all matters relating to<br />
textiles and textile machinery, etc.<br />
As part of fulfilling the mandate of collection and<br />
dissemination of statistics and other marker research<br />
information relating to the textile industry, the Market<br />
Research Wing is carrying out several studies and surveys<br />
in the field of textiles in the country. These reports are used<br />
as the base for policy prescriptions by the policy makers of<br />
As part of the export facilitation activities, Textiles the country. In order to capture the preferences of the<br />
Committee are presently issuing various certificates consumers and the market size of the domestic textile<br />
namely, Generalised System of Preferences (GSP); industry and other parameters, Committee is regularly<br />
Certificate of Origin, Handloom Origin Certificate; and organising a national survey titled, National Household<br />
Non-Preferential Certificate. The other areas of export Survey: Market for Textiles and Clothing in the country. In<br />
promotion include the Quality Inspection of Fabrics and addition to this, it has also undertaking analysis on Export<br />
Garments for exports, Classification of Garments; and<br />
imparting ‘Quality Checkers' Training’ to improve the<br />
quality of textile products.<br />
Competitiveness of India besides providing information to<br />
the industry on Non- Tariff Barriers (NTBs) imposed by<br />
other countries and importers, which very few<br />
organizations are providing now.<br />
The Laboratories Wing of Textiles Committee<br />
provides consultancy to setup Textile Testing Laboratories 2. Please explain about successful projects taken by<br />
in the country with the objective of improving quality of<br />
textiles. This includes planning the lay out, identification of<br />
equipments, Accessories, Chemicals and other items<br />
Textiles Committee?<br />
Assessment and Rating of Cotton Ginning and<br />
Pressing Factories in India - to cultivate quality culture and<br />
20<br />
September-October 2012
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
improve the technology and thus improving the value of (OHSAS 18001) and Other Management Systems consists<br />
products in domestic as well as international markets. This of Awareness Programmes, In-house training Programme<br />
scheme specifies the requirements for assessment & rating on Statistical Process Control, Internal Quality Audit and<br />
of modernized ginning & pressing factories in the country Third party Audit besides extending assistance at the time<br />
by Textiles Committee to facilitate (a) Ginning & pressing of Surveillance Audit.<br />
factories to know their present status and identify the scope<br />
for improvement; (b) Ginning & pressing factories to boost The Export Promotion and Quality Assurance<br />
the credibility of their factory and use the rating as an<br />
effective marketing tool; © Cotton traders to select ginning<br />
& pressing factories for processing their cotton to their<br />
quality requirements; (d) Spinning mills to select<br />
appropriate ginning & pressing factories for sourcing<br />
cotton to their requirements; and (e) Creation of a brand for<br />
clean cotton. The assessment has instrumental in informing<br />
the deficiencies and to make them quality conscious. Some<br />
of the spill over effects of the scheme has been the<br />
development of infrastructure by the G&P units and also<br />
the development of best management practices. The units<br />
are graded with different ratings starting from ‘one star’ to<br />
‘five star’. Now efforts are on to accept this rating<br />
certificate for availing various schemes of state and central<br />
government as well as bank loans etc. for the development<br />
of the units.<br />
Division (EPQA) of the Textiles Committee is the First<br />
Accredited Inspection Body in Asia under ISO 17020 (Type<br />
"A" Inspection Body). ISO 17020 standard specifies<br />
general criterion for the competence of impartial bodies<br />
performing inspection. It also specifies independence<br />
criteria of inspection bodies. Implementation of this<br />
standard gives international recognition to the organization<br />
in relation to the inspection activity. Textiles Committee has<br />
more than four decades of experience in carrying out<br />
inspections of textiles and clothing. The quality inspection<br />
schemes for yarn, woven textile fabrics, Made-up articles<br />
and Readymade Garments have been developed on the<br />
basis of requirements in national and international<br />
standards by way of defining the flaws, sampling plan,<br />
inspection methodology, acceptance criteria, sealing<br />
stamping, etc. These schemes are aimed at providing the<br />
textile trade and industry a customer friendly third party<br />
Hon'ble Prime Minister of India has inaugurated the inspection of their products.<br />
Handloom Mark Scheme for which Textiles Committee is<br />
the implementing agency in the country. This scheme is not The globalisation has brought about enormous<br />
only meant for the benefit of handloom weavers and challenges to the trade and industry; and the worst sufferers<br />
exporters but also for the consumers of the handloom are the producers of unique textile products who loose their<br />
products. The handloom mark is aimed at providing a<br />
collective identity to the hand woven products made in<br />
India. The products bearing handloom mark give assurance<br />
to the buyer about the genuineness of the origin of<br />
handloom product being purchased. The handloom mark is<br />
supporting the well being of the weavers, who are from the<br />
economically weaker sections of the society. By virtue of<br />
the sale of the Handloom Mark products, the employment<br />
of the weavers are expected to increase which in turn leads<br />
to regular work to them. This will result better price<br />
realisation to the handloom products and hence improve the<br />
living standard of the weavers in the country. During 2011-<br />
12, there were 1220 new registrations of manufacturers/<br />
exporters for Handloom mark and 55,49,617 labels were<br />
sold.<br />
market due to large-scale infringement of the product. The<br />
promulgation of Geographical Indication (GI) Act, 1999 by<br />
Government of India has created an avenue for protection<br />
of these unique products of the country. The GI Act<br />
stipulates protection of the market of the producers and<br />
safeguards the interests of the consumers of these unique<br />
products through registration and taking infringement<br />
action against the infringers. It is believed, that the IPR<br />
Protection of unique textiles products of the country with a<br />
predetermined market linkage strategy would help in brand<br />
building of the product, providing market linkages,<br />
generating more employment opportunities and enhanced<br />
income to the stakeholders. With this objective, Textiles<br />
Committee has been spearheading a nationwide campaign<br />
in the country through facilitating GI registration of<br />
potential products and technical knowledge transfers.<br />
Textiles Committee is the single largest service Besides the Committee is disseminating the trade related<br />
provider in the country for the quality improvement in the information for capacity building. As a part of this<br />
textiles & clothing industry. So far, 628 textiles companies endeavour, the Committee has facilitated the GI registration<br />
have availed of the services of Textiles Committee in of more than 20 products including Lucknow Chikan Craft,<br />
implementation of ISO 9000, ISO 14000, SA 8000, and Banaras Saree & Brocades of Uttar Pradesh, Khandua Saree<br />
OHSAS 18000 standards. The Consultancy in & Fabrics, Pipli Applique of Orissa, Surat Zari of Gujarat,<br />
implementation of ISO 9000 Quality Management Systems Paithani Saree of Maharashtra, Bhagalpur Silk of Bihar,<br />
(QMS) and ISO 14000 Environment Management Systems Guledgudda Fabrics of Karnataka etc.<br />
(EMS); SA 8000 Social Accountability Standard;<br />
Occupational Health and Safety Assessment Series In addition to this, Textiles Committee has carried out<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
21
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
several knowledge-based unique studies based on textile building; prepare the stakeholders to mitigate the adverse<br />
industry such as - Market Basket Survey of Tirupur and effect of NTBs; to collect feedback from the stakeholders<br />
Chennai; Assessment of Technical Manpower for the for better policy decisions; prepare a common code of<br />
apparel industry; Census of Textile Engineering Industry in compliance acceptable to overseas buyers; and update the<br />
India; Impact assessment of MGNREGA scheme on the compendium on NTBs using the feedback received in the<br />
Textile Consumption in Rural India etc. workshop.<br />
3. Explain about the new initiatives for 2012 & 2013? In addition to this, it also planned to organise cluster<br />
With the aim to improving the protection of human level data collection of important textile clusters of the<br />
health and the environment through the better and earlier country and a study to assess the principal implications of<br />
identification of the intrinsic properties of chemical the Goods & Services Tax (GST) regime and to suggest the<br />
substances and their safe use, the European Community best option among the various options based on some<br />
enforced a law, called “Registration, Evaluation,<br />
Authorisation and Restriction of Chemical substances<br />
rationale.<br />
(REACH)”. The benefits of the REACH system will come 4. How Textiles Committee plans to focus on Technical<br />
gradually, as more and more substances are phased into Textiles?<br />
REACH. The manufacturers and importers are required to The over all growth of technical textiles in India is<br />
gather information on the properties of their chemical estimated at 14 percent per annum with appropriate policy<br />
substances, which will allow their safe handling, and to regime and accordingly the market size for technical<br />
register the information in a central database run by the textiles has increased from Rs. 37100 crores in 2007-08 to<br />
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). The Laboratory<br />
wing of the Committee has drawn up a programme to<br />
develop testing facilities under REACH regulations and<br />
Rs. 62420 crores in 2012-13 at a CAGR of 11 percent. One<br />
of the constraints in the Indian scenario is considered as lack<br />
of basic infrastructure, skilled manpower, testing facilities,<br />
testing facilities for testing of Technical textiles also.<br />
training & educational facilities. In order to meet the<br />
The implementation of Laboratory Information<br />
constraints in the field of testing, Committee has initiated a<br />
programme to develop testing facilities to technical textiles<br />
Management System (LIMS) in all the laboratories of the in the country and more focus will be on the North East<br />
Committee is under process to serve the industry in a better Region.<br />
and efficient way. Implementation of ISO Quality<br />
Management Systems in Government Departments - 5. Explain in details of the Textiles Committee's<br />
Office of the Textile Commissioner in Mumbai as well as in structure and branches all over India and their<br />
its 9 Regional Offices and in the Ministry of Textiles and<br />
other Central Government Offices will be taken up soon by<br />
the Textiles Committee for implementation.<br />
mandates.<br />
Textiles Committee, in the post liberalisation era, has<br />
reoriented its role from being a regulatory organisation to<br />
become a facilitator for quality improvement in Indian<br />
Another area where Committee starts focusing is the textile and clothing industry. The committee renders<br />
Non-Tariff Barriers (NTBs) as most of the countries have valuable service to the industry through a net work of 29<br />
been using NTBs as a major trade restrictive measure for regional offices situated in the major textile<br />
denying market access to the export interest of other manufacturing/export centres in the country with its Head<br />
countries. Non Tariff Barriers (NTBs) are trade barriers Office at Mumbai. Of the 29 regional offices, 17 offices are<br />
other than tariff barriers and can take various forms. These equipped with testing facilities. All the offices are manned<br />
measures are being imposed in the name of Quality, Social by textile technologists who are available for the industry<br />
and Environment, Ethical Compliances Standards and for their day-to-day activities.<br />
many more. Further, these country specific barriers are<br />
complemented by the importers/buyers with private<br />
standards, which, the importers project as <strong>business</strong> &<br />
market promotion tools. Keeping the growing importance<br />
of these barriers and its adverse effect on the export interest<br />
6. What is the need of Indian Textile and Apparel<br />
industry to fare better in the future on the domestic<br />
front and also on export front?<br />
The tax reforms, initiated in 1991, have sought to<br />
of the sector, Textiles Committee in association with the rationalise the tax structure and increase compliance by<br />
Ministry of Textiles and Export Promotion Councils taking steps in the directions (I) reducing the rates of<br />
(EPCs) has initiated the capacity building programmes of<br />
the stakeholders. As a part of this programme, a series of<br />
NTBs Related Capacity Building Programme (CBP) will<br />
individual and corporate income taxes, excises, customs<br />
and making it more progressive; (ii) reducing exemptions<br />
be organized in the major textile export centres of the and concessions; (iii) simplification of laws and<br />
country. The objectives of these programme is capacity procedures; (iv) introduction of permanent account number<br />
22<br />
September-October 2012
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
(PAN) to track monetary transactions; (v) value added tax decentralized sector is unaware of the national as well as the<br />
(VAT) to replace the complex and multiple sales tax system. international standards. Therefore, to increase awareness<br />
The need of the present time is to synergise the structure of among apparel manufacturers on the required national and<br />
taxation systems and policy reforms. international compliance standards, and to assess, train and<br />
In the export front also, the immediate focus should be<br />
on trade facilitation activities, simplification of procedure<br />
and development of infrastructure.<br />
guide them to upgrade the workplace conditions and labour<br />
standards in their facilities, the Ministry of Textiles has<br />
implemented a pan- India initiative called DISHA- Driving<br />
Industry towards Sustainable Human Capital Advancement<br />
The core impediment in the development of the textile – through Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). The<br />
industry in the country is the lack of infrastructure. In order DISHA is a first-of-its-kind industry-owned and driven<br />
to address this issue, the Ministry has launched a ‘Scheme initiative, aimed at equipping the Indian apparel industry,<br />
for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP)’ which was launched by especially the small and medium enterprises, towards<br />
merging two schemes, namely, Apparel Parks for Exports becoming more socially and environmentally responsible.<br />
Scheme (APES) and the Textiles Centre Infrastructure Inspired by the philosophy of DISHA, the Indian apparel<br />
Development Scheme (TCIDS). The primary objective of industry is determined to chart a course for itself to make<br />
the SITP is to provide the industry with world-class India a preferred and chosen destination for the global<br />
infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile units. The textile and apparel trade and sourcing.<br />
scheme would facilitate textile units to meet international<br />
Skill development is another area of focus of the<br />
environmental and social standards. The scheme is planned<br />
government. In line with the policy announcement of the<br />
to create new textile parks of international standards at<br />
government of India, the Union Textiles Minister launched<br />
potential growth centres of the industry. The scheme targets<br />
a new Integrated Skill Development Scheme for the<br />
industrial clusters/locations with high growth potential,<br />
Textiles & Apparel Sector, including Jute & Handicrafts<br />
which require strategic interventions by way of providing<br />
with the objective of capacity building of Institutions<br />
world-class infrastructure support. The project cost cover<br />
providing skill development & training in Textiles Sector.<br />
common infrastructure and buildings for production/<br />
The new scheme is expected to envisage skill development<br />
support activities (including textiles engineering,<br />
of 30 lakh persons in 5 years in the textile sector. In the<br />
accessories, packaging), depending on the needs of the ITP.<br />
National Skill Development Policy, a sectoral target of<br />
There will be flexibility in setting up ITPs to suit the local<br />
training 100 lakh persons by the year 2022 in the Textile<br />
requirements.<br />
Apparel industry is recognized as a major employer in<br />
the textile industry value chain and also as the first point of<br />
entry to industrial work for millions of low skilled and<br />
unskilled workers. With its labour intensive nature and<br />
considering the female employment intensity, the apparel<br />
sector plays a crucial role in the development of nations,<br />
especially in developing countries, by its contribution to<br />
social and economic development and in elimination of<br />
poverty. A distinctive feature of India’s textile industry is<br />
the functions and processes throughout the value chain -<br />
from cotton production to textiles to apparel making and<br />
exports. A majority of the units which are operating in the<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
23<br />
sector has been fixed. The Scheme also envisages<br />
concurrent evaluation and the performance would be<br />
adjudged in the next two years. Based upon the<br />
performance and after making necessary modifications/<br />
adjustments, the Scheme would be scaled up in the next<br />
three years to meet the targets. The scheme is planned in<br />
such a way that all facets of skill development are covered<br />
right from Basic Training, Skill up-gradation, Advanced<br />
Training in emerging technologies, Training of Trainers,<br />
orientation towards modern technology, retraining, skill up<br />
gradation, managerial skill, entrepreneurship development<br />
etc.
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
Multi Brand Retailing to Create Opportunities for T&C sector<br />
Expansion of multi brand retailing expected in the medium term. Moreover, the slowdown of Chinese<br />
wake of the recent decision of government to allow FDI in economy and Vietnam, one of the lead players in the textile<br />
the sector will create unprecedented opportunities for the sector,would provide some competitive relief to India as the<br />
textiles and clothing industry of India according to a paper global demand starts to grow along with recovery. The next<br />
presented by Mr. Thomas Varghese of Aditya Birla Group phase would be really critical for the industry, he said. He<br />
in the Indian Textile Summit organised by Confederation of also observed that among the textile and clothing products,<br />
th<br />
Indian Textile Industry (CITI) on 27 September 2012 in menswear continued to remain the biggest segment at<br />
Mumbai. The well attended summit discussed some of the present, but the growth would be higher in kid's wear and<br />
critical issues and opportunities emerging in the global as<br />
well as Indian textile sector.<br />
women's wear in future, leading to growth opportunities.He<br />
said that among the neighbouring countries Bangladesh<br />
would continue to compete with India on cost advantage;<br />
Welcoming the speakers and participants to the Wal-Mart's apparel sourcing from Bangladesh increased by<br />
Summit, Mr.Prem Malik, Deputy Chairman, CITI stressed 41% in the year 2011 over 2010, he observed.<br />
the need for the clothing industry of the country to improve<br />
production efficiency to meet competition from low cost<br />
Asian competitors. He felt that the country had the potential<br />
to raise its share in global apparel trade from the current 3.1<br />
to 6-7%. He also felt that some of the measures announced<br />
by government recently like liberalizing retail investment<br />
would help the textiles sector to improve its performance.<br />
Mr. Deep Mukherji from Fitch Ratings India Pvt Ltd.<br />
observed that the softening cotton and cotton yarn prices in<br />
first two quarters of the financial year 2011-12 led to a<br />
partial margin revival in the sector but not a full-scale<br />
demand recovery. Mr.Mukherji stressed upon the fact that<br />
reduced substitution demand for synthetic textiles, higher<br />
crude-oil based input costs and oversupply in partially-<br />
Speaking at the summit, Mr. Thomas Varghese said oriented yarn segment were the sources of concern for the<br />
thatT&C products would be the core component of most of industry.<br />
the multi brand outlets because of its high margin and the<br />
ability to create differentiation through private labels. He<br />
felt that this sector would be one of the major beneficiaries<br />
of the liberal retail trade scenario. FDI in Retail would<br />
increase competition but it would also create opportunities<br />
for T&C players to garner scale and become world class<br />
players. Currently clothing occupies 36% of the overall<br />
retail segment and this would increase substantially after<br />
more organised retailers enter the market. He said that<br />
thedemand for readymade and western outfit was growing<br />
Leading textile manufacturers lauded the initiatives<br />
of the states to increase the flow of investment in the sector<br />
by appropriate policy schemes. Speaking at the summit,<br />
Mr. B K Patodia, Chairman, GTN group said that the textile<br />
policy of Maharashtra and Gujarat could drive greater<br />
investments in these states. With the availability of cotton<br />
and other infrastructural facilities like ports and power,<br />
these states could generate immense investment interests<br />
among the textile entrepreneurs. He observed that the rising<br />
cost of production was taking away India's competitiveness<br />
at 40-45% annually, but the key for success in the emerging in the textile sector. High interest rates and power costs<br />
competitive environment would be to deliver affordable<br />
and accessible fashion to the value conscious customers.<br />
were the worrying factors for the textile industry, he said.<br />
Presiding over the concluding session, Mr. S V<br />
Mr.R. RaghuttamaRao, MD, ICRA Management and Arumugam, Chairman CITI said that the industry's<br />
Consultancy Services (IMaCs), in his paper on global fragmented nature and structural weaknesses had been<br />
economic situation observed that global recession had a preventing it from achieving its potential. Some sectors like<br />
negative impact on Indian textile industry but this would be fabric manufacturing and processing still languish as weak<br />
a short term problem. Though the EU members were still in links in the textile value chain. Though enormous<br />
contraction mode and fighting the financial crisis, the opportunities exist in international trade for the clothing<br />
recovery of consumption in US and the possibilities of the segment, here again structural problems were affecting the<br />
market emerging out of slowdown are expected to provide competitiveness of Indian producers, in comparison to<br />
the much needed relief to Indian textile exports in the other Asian industries.<br />
24<br />
September-October 2012
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
ArvindAcquires Debenhams, Nautica and Next Business in India<br />
Arvind Lifestyle Brands, subsidiary of Arvind Ltd, one stores in India from 2 to 8 in the next 3 years. Arvind will<br />
of the largest players in the apparel brands and retail space, enter into the fast growing segment of apparel specialty<br />
announced the acquisition of the <strong>business</strong> operations of retail through Next. Arvind plans to increase to increase<br />
British fashion retailers Debenhams and Next and number of next stores from 3 to 12 in the next 3 years.<br />
American Lifestyle Brand Nautica in India from Planet<br />
Retail. The spokesperson from Debenhams said, “ I'm very<br />
excited by the new chapter to be written together with<br />
Announcing the acquisition, Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Arvind, who are a very solid and experienced retail group<br />
Chairman & Managing Director of Arvind Limited, with a fantastic reputation. I'm confident that within the next<br />
Speaking to The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s said “This acquisition is a 5 years, we'll have 8 fabulous Debenhams stores in 5 of<br />
significant milestone as it signals our entry into the India's biggest cities'.<br />
Department Store Segment and also the globally fast<br />
growing apparel specialty retail segment. American Commenting on the acquisition, spokesperson from<br />
Sportswear Lifestyle Brand Nautica makes us the dominant Next said, “We are very positive about the new franchise<br />
player in the sportswear segment. With this move, we have partnership and are looking forward to Arvind Brands retaken<br />
a big step towards strengthening our position in the launching the next brand in India."<br />
Indian fashion industry. These acquisitions will accelerate<br />
our growth and contribute to our vision of achieving sales The licensing arrangement with Nautica will strengthen<br />
of Rs. 5000 crores over the next 5 years.” Arvind's already strong position in high potential<br />
sportswear segment of the market. The company plans to set<br />
“We have a strong menswear portfolio, which will get up additional 30 Nautica stores taking the tally to 41 free<br />
further strengthened with Nautica. Debenhams & Next will standing Nautica stores and 71 shop in shops in the next 3<br />
substantially strengthen our position in Womenswear & years.<br />
Kidswear segment. We plan to achieve Rs. 500 cr revenue<br />
over next 5 years from current Rs,70 crores by investing “We are excited to be working with Arvind Lifestyle<br />
Rs.150 crores in to these three brands” said J. Suresh, Brands on the further development of this market.” said<br />
Managing Director & CEO, Arvind Lifestyle Brands Maria Vicari, President of Global Licensing, Nautica<br />
Ltd. Apparel Inc. “As we continue to grow our brand footprint<br />
internationally with our licensed operators around the<br />
Acquisition of Debenhams signals the entry of Arvind globe, we look to Arvind with their significant expertise in<br />
into the Bridge to Luxury Department Store segment. brand building in India, to grow Nautica's presence in this<br />
Arvind plans to increase the current number of Debenhams important emerging market.”<br />
Siyaram Set To Transform TheIndian Male<br />
Fashion With Free Fall Fabric For “Trousering”<br />
Keeping its commitment by refurbishing the Indian's Free Fall as the name reveals, is a non-conventional P/V<br />
male attire time and again, Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd has now fabric with an easy drape finish which enables it to curl,<br />
introduced their latest collection “Free Fall” for bend, and fold with the leg movements and jump back easily<br />
“Trousering”. along the trouser length due to an extra weight of its own.<br />
Known as the most popular fashion brand for the finest The fabrics woven out of 2/40s, 2/50s and fancy yarns,<br />
and most premium suiting & shirting fabrics – Siyaram -- are finished with the latest processing procedures for<br />
has now forayed into the trouser segment with the launch of managing the extra weight and the complex blends to<br />
FreeFall to create a niche in the “Trousering” segment. enhance the fine raw material properties and consequently<br />
make them drape and fall effortlessly.<br />
Speaking on the occasion Shri Ramesh Poddar,<br />
Chairman & Managing Director of Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd., Spotted on the global fashion arena, this collection been<br />
said, “The trouser fabrics comprise roughly around 90% of developed to give the wearer an exceptional & unparalleled<br />
the entire fabric market in India. Yet, until now, there was no comfort and style. Free Fall fabrics are manufactured using<br />
brand that specifically focused on this huge segment. The specialty yarns and fibers and are treated with a world class<br />
FREE FALL trouser fabric from Siyaram's is going to finishing system. The eye pleasing designs and colours add<br />
change that. It is designed keeping in mind the dynamic to the right amount of sophistication to the ensemble best<br />
fashion sense and tastes of the new age Indian consumer.” suited for the masculine personality of a male.<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
25
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
The unique properties of the Free Fall fabrics are: · Extremely comfortable<br />
· Bouncing Effect · Lustrous<br />
· Freedom of movement · Luxurious<br />
· Smooth & Silky finish<br />
· Highly refined in structure & finish Free Fall fabrics will impart the ultimate feeling of<br />
· Wrinkle Free relaxation with a stylish look. Free Fall will surely reign<br />
· Excellent fall men's fashion in the time to come.<br />
Trident Conferred with “CITI Birla Award for Human<br />
Resource Management in Textile Mills”<br />
Trident Limited, one of country's leading textile innovative employee engagement initiatives have resulted<br />
manufacturers, was conferred with the prestigious CITI's in winning this coveted award as our people have been<br />
Birla Award for Human Resource Management in Textile continuously contributing to the values and ethics that our<br />
Mills, The award aims at recognizing the path breaking company upholds. It is a combination of various HR<br />
achievements undertaken by organizations to strive initiatives and our belief in fostering a culture that supports<br />
towards formulating innovative HR policies. The award health and well being of every employee. I am obliged to the<br />
was presented to Mr. DK Mittal, Location Head, Budni, confederation for appreciating our efforts and honoring us<br />
Trident Limited, by Mr. SV Arumugam, Chairman, with this award.”<br />
Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI).<br />
This award adds another feather in the hat of Trident<br />
Trident Limited has been privileged by the award for Limited, where Human Resource is considered one of the<br />
adopting the best HR practices across all verticals of HR, most indispensable assets of the organization. Furthermore,<br />
like Organization Development (OD), Recruitment and<br />
Retention and PMS, Reward and Recognition and in<br />
addition has introduced various incentive schemes for<br />
applauding and encouraging the earnability of its high<br />
performing members. This award encourages<br />
entrepreneurship thus, empowering them to take decisions<br />
and promotes ownership within the organization. The<br />
initiatives aim at enhancing the managerial competencies<br />
and to facilitate organizational growth and development.<br />
Trident Limited continues to put a lot of emphasis in<br />
providing an equal opportunity in supporting women<br />
employees and encourage them to be leaders of tomorrow.<br />
Considering the vast talent pool of women in this<br />
organization and the need for mentoring and empowering<br />
women in Trident and the society, Asmita- A women<br />
empowerment forum was launched in 2008. The forum<br />
aspires to focus on health, welfare, education and overall<br />
development of women to make them self reliant. The<br />
Speaking on the occasion, Mr. YPS Kanwar, HR company also keeps organizing various CSR initiatives that<br />
Head, Trident Limited said “It is a moment of pride for us include continuous participation in development of Sacred<br />
to be recognised for excellence in HR practices and Heart School at Barnala, conducting free medical checkup<br />
Management at Trident. People are our biggest assets who camps to address health problems, provision of residential<br />
contribute hugely to the success of our company. Our colonies for operatives at plant sites amongst many others.<br />
DIESEL Launches Italian Street Wear Brand 55DSL In India<br />
55DSL will be available through Diesel retail stores (reliance brands) in Mumbai, Pune,<br />
Bangalore, Gurgaon and Ludhiana this Festive Season<br />
Diesel's Italian street wear brand 55DSL was Commenting on 55DSL's India launch, Sumeet Yadav,<br />
successfully launched in India through a mega event in the Business Head – Diesel India said, “Indian youth today is<br />
beginning of the festive season in Mumbai on<br />
both bold and experimental in their fashion choices. The<br />
nd<br />
22 September. The brand will now be available across<br />
Diesel stores at Palladium, Lower Parel, Mumbai; UB City,<br />
launch of 55DSL in India especially in this festive season<br />
will help us offer these youngsters a fashion variant that is<br />
practical and comfortable, while remaining aesthetically<br />
Vittal Malaya Road, Bangalore; MDB Neopolis Mall, stunning and unique through the versatile use of inspired<br />
Ludhiana; Ambience Mall, Gurgaon and Phoenix Market graphics. We expect 55DSL to become the new aspirational<br />
city, Pune<br />
brand among young Indians.”<br />
26<br />
September-October 2012
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
The brand was launched in India through a mega event spin-off of the popular Diesel brand, 55DSL is now an<br />
at Palladium, Mumbai. The event reflected 55DSL's young, independent apparel company belonging to Only the Brave<br />
street DNA in mind and showcased the best of <strong>International</strong> group (Diesel) with a lively and provocative identity, and a<br />
street culture including various art, dance and music forms. fresh young attitude.<br />
Graffiti artists Jas, Minzo and Guru painted the<br />
parking lot walls at Palladium and made artistic<br />
Under the creative direction of Andrea Rosso, 55DSL<br />
murals, ganpati of the boring white walls. The crowds creates male and female collections for those who feel<br />
were also entertained by performances by B-Boying equally at home in an urban dwelling as a rural scenario.<br />
crew Roc Fresh, Street Rappers Cash Kardz, Ace aka Andrea Rosso tirelessly seeks out new collaborations every<br />
39, Kinga Rhymes and MC Shinobi and Beat boxers day with artists and companies of all genres all around the<br />
Beatbench. world, thus making 55DSL as much about the mind as the<br />
55DSL is the original Italian street wear brand uniting<br />
subcultures around the world, through a shared passion for<br />
creativity and fashion. Created in 1994 as an experimental<br />
body. 55DSL is a solid company settled through 20 directly<br />
owned stores around the world, and select worldwide<br />
distribution from the USA to Europe and Japan.<br />
Dollar Industries Diversifies Into Lifestyle Apparels<br />
This festive season, Indian apparel market is set to The Denims range comprises of Regular fit, Straight<br />
witness yet another fashion revolution as leading hosiery fit, Skinny fit, Absolute Skinny fit and Slim fit. While<br />
brand Dollar Industries launched its men’s lifestyle apparel various styles of T-Shirts and Gym-Vests are also there. All<br />
segment with its much awaited brand “FORCE”, which is of these products are not only stylish but pocket friendly<br />
strategically called “Go Wear”. FORCE range consists of<br />
fashionable Jeans, T-Shirts, Bermudas, Gym Vests, Boxer<br />
Shorts and Track Pants.<br />
too, as the price range starts from Rs 899/- to Rs 1499/- for<br />
Denims and Rs 120/- onwards for other products. FORCE<br />
initially witnessed a soft launch only in Eastern India but<br />
“The company’s endeavour is to provide branded<br />
apparels at reasonable cost to meet the needs of Indian<br />
consumers. A complete range of lifestyle wear which<br />
now the company will launch the entire range nationally.<br />
The products will be available in general retail markets,<br />
specially, MBOs(Multi Brand Outlet).<br />
consists of Denims, Tees, Gym-Vest, Track Pants, Bermuda<br />
and Boxer Shorts, FORCE will surely sway the latest<br />
fashion industry. The whole range is designed keeping in<br />
mind both the comfort level and style factor of today’s<br />
youngsters. We have an aggressive marketing and<br />
advertising strategy in place to promote the brand”, said<br />
Mr. Vinod Kumar Gupta, Managing Director, Dollar<br />
Industries Ltd.<br />
“Casual wears has become second skin for today’s<br />
generation. A sample research has shown that the target<br />
consumers for FORCE mainly consist of young,<br />
independent and ambitious men. Banking on the needs of<br />
these aspiring consumers, we decided to venture into<br />
lifestyle apparels. It has a vast scope and the market is<br />
growing”, added Mr Gupta.<br />
Successful Production Of Levafix Blue CA<br />
Lonsen Kiri Chemical Industries Ltd. (Lonsen Kiri), conditions. The Levafix CA range is DyStar's high-end<br />
a joint venture between LongSheng Group, China and Kiri reactive range for dyeing and printing of cotton and other<br />
Industries, India, successfully produced the first bulk cellulosic textiles. The Levafix CA is designed to deliver<br />
quantities of Levafix Blue CA, a fluoro-triazine (TFT) excellent fastness performance and optimal dyeing<br />
based reactive dye, at their site in Gujarat, India. The behavior with high fixation levels. Levafix Blue CA is a key<br />
production and quality control was carried out with<br />
DyStar's supervision.<br />
element in that range. Many Levafix CA products are used<br />
to color garments of trendsetting Brands & Retailers.<br />
The production of Levafix Blue CA is an important<br />
"This achievement concludes a long process of plant<br />
and product know-how transfer. Furthermore, I am proud of<br />
milestone in establishing the manufacturing site of Levafix<br />
the Shareholders’ and the DyStar team’s commitment to<br />
CA dyes in India. The Levafix CA dyes require complex, excellence demonstrated by this project” states Harry<br />
multi-step synthesis under high safety standards and Dobrowolski, CEO of the DyStar Group.<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
27
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
Clariant Makes Sustainability Measurable For Textile Mills And Brands<br />
• A systematic methodology based on sophisticated<br />
tools<br />
systematic methodology based on a three-step process.<br />
• Products pre-tested against the industry's most Step 1: Product selection based on eco-standards<br />
stringent standards and compiled in a unique database requirements<br />
for instant information<br />
• Sophisticated calculation tool for informed decision on Customers will benefit from a wide range of Clariant<br />
products and processes, and their ecological impact ONE WAY products, developed and pre-tested by the<br />
company against more than 15 of the industry’s most<br />
stringent environmental and consumer safety standards<br />
The Swiss specialty chemicals group Clariant including Blue Sign®1,OekoTex®2, GOTS3, the 11<br />
announced the introduction of a new service called ONE substances of the Joint Roadmap towards Zero Discharge of<br />
WAY that helps textile mills, brands and retailers measure<br />
the impact of their textile solutions on the environment,<br />
Hazardous Chemicals, bioelimination and 20 major<br />
Restricted Substances List (RSLs).<br />
resource and climate.<br />
Today, the Clariant ONE WAY product database<br />
Clariant believes that it can help its customers to<br />
develop textile solutions that are both more ecologically<br />
and economically sustainable by providing a fast,<br />
measurable and reliable approach to the selection of<br />
chemical products and process solutions.<br />
already includes more than 200 products, covering most of<br />
the needs of the industry across the value chain. This<br />
database will be accessible anytime, anywhere, by the 20-<br />
strong ONE WAY specialist team, who will be located<br />
around the world and comprise of product stewardship<br />
experts.<br />
Taking on the textile industry’s toughest challenges<br />
Step 2: Process short-listing based on<br />
According to Textile Exchange*, an estimated six<br />
environmental focus<br />
million tons of textile chemicals is used each year, making<br />
the environmental impact of textile processing a global<br />
With Clariant’s ONE WAY, dyes and chemicals have<br />
been screened and clustered into groups based on their<br />
issue. Textile waste occupies nearly five per cent of all environmental focus. This will allow textile manufacturers<br />
landfill space, with one million tons of textiles ending up in to narrow their selection of potential products to the process<br />
landfills every year. group that best fits their environmental focus, whether this<br />
is Co2 emissions, savings in water or energy or the amount<br />
In addition, 20 percent of industrial fresh water pollution of waste water generated.<br />
comes from textile treatment and dyeing; and one trillion<br />
Step 3: Solution selection based on cost & eco-benefits<br />
kilowatt hours are used every year by the global textile<br />
calculations<br />
industry, which equates to 10 percent of global carbon<br />
impact.<br />
A sophisticated calculation software tool, which will be<br />
With increasing consumer awareness of these issues,<br />
brands and retailers today are under growing pressure to set<br />
the cornerstone of the ONE WAY toolbox, is currently in<br />
final testing phase and will be available by January 2013.<br />
and enforce sustainability policies, as well as monitor and This calculation tool will allow customers to make an<br />
measure the environmental impact of their textile dyeing informed decision by delivering the overall cost and<br />
and finishing processes,” said Emrah Esder, Head of performance profile – including dyes, chemicals, water,<br />
Marketing, Textile Chemicals, Clariant.<br />
energy and time – and the impact of each textile solution<br />
against key ecological performance indicators, such as<br />
“However, a long-time headache has been the chemical oxygen demand, biological oxygen demand, CO2<br />
difficulty of measuring the overall ecological impact of any emissions, energy and water.<br />
textile process. Clariant’s ONE WAY will address this gap<br />
by providing fast and reliable information on the<br />
economical and ecological impact of each textile solution.”<br />
As a leading supplier of chemical solutions for the<br />
textile industry, Clariant has a long-term commitment to<br />
developing products and application processes that are safer<br />
Systematic approach and stringent standards towards for the consumer, and have less impact on the environment.<br />
industry leadership<br />
Clariant’s ONE WAY will offer mills, brands and retailers a<br />
28<br />
In May 2012, it joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition<br />
(SAC). Clariant is also a member of the Textile Exchange<br />
and is a System Partner of bluesign®.<br />
September-October 2012
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
Euratex Strongly Disappointed with Pakistan’s Waiver Approval<br />
Regretably and in spite of all the economic and factual The Waiver to Pakistan will give an extra competitive bonus<br />
arguments provided by the EU Textile and Clothing to one of our major competitors that is already benefiting<br />
Industry against the Pakistan Waiver the European from strong financial support from its Government”.<br />
Parliament has decided to approve the Waiver.<br />
Commenting on the Waiver’s approval EURATEX Even if some measures were foreseen with the<br />
President, Mr. Alberto Paccanelli, said “We are profoundly intention of limiting the negative impact on EU T&C<br />
disappointed by the way EU policy makers have decided to Industry- e.g. safeguard clauses – in Euratex opinion these<br />
use trade as a political instrument totally disregarding the will not be sufficient to counterbalance the negative impact<br />
economic interests of EU Textile and Clothing Industry, its of this concession for EU companies. As Mr. Paccanelli<br />
companies and workers”. stresses “Decision makers are sending a very negative<br />
message to EU Textile and Clothing Industrialists- even<br />
Even if evidence provided by Euratex clearly shows with a crisis situation in Europe we decide to assist your<br />
that (a) the concessions will not benefit the populations competitors in Pakistan by giving them unilateral duty free<br />
affected by the 2010 floods, (b) the measures will boost the access to the EU market. It is extremely difficult with such<br />
already strong competitive and financial capacity of unexpected and drastic changes in the competitive<br />
Pakistani Exporters, (c) the waiver will grant Pakistan an environment to continue to invest and create jobs in<br />
extra leverage in the EU market in detriment of EU Industry Europe.”<br />
but also of other third country competitors, the concessions<br />
were nevertheless approved. In this context Mr. Paccanelli EURATEX hopes that this will be a one-time decision<br />
recalls “Textile and Clothing companies are currently and that in future we will not have more examples of trade<br />
facing a very challenging <strong>business</strong> environment with an being used to pursue political or other interests with the EU<br />
economic crisis in the EU that has a very negative impact on Industry having to endure the heavy economic and social<br />
consumption with a reduction in orders between 6%-7% impact of such measures.<br />
compared to the same period of last year and a financial<br />
crisis that has imposed strong constraints on companies to Euratex accounts for € 179 billion Turnover, 1,834<br />
access credit particularly in Southern European countries. million workers and 146.000 companies<br />
Cutting Through Eco-confusion:<br />
World's First Global Organic Cotton Campaign Launches At<br />
Hong Kong Textiles Conference<br />
Major players in the international textiles industry are But some brands are failing to commit to organic<br />
today challenged to sign up to organic – the most reliable standards, opting instead for easier, lower-level schemes or<br />
and trustworthy standard of sustainable textiles production. worse – nothing at all. Without commitment from brands, it<br />
is the farmers and the environment that bear the social,<br />
Speaking at the Sustainable Textiles Conference in environmental and economic risks associated with cotton<br />
Hong Kong, Lord Peter Melchett – Policy Director of the production:<br />
UK's Soil Association – asked textile industry leaders:<br />
“Have you cottoned on yet?” “Organic cotton is proven to deliver positive benefits<br />
for people and the environment. When it comes to<br />
Echoing the slogan of the campaign and website making sustainability claims you can trust, nothing<br />
launched today (www.cottonedon.org), Lord Melchett beats it.” Lord Peter Melchett, Policy Director, Soil<br />
called on the industry to put a halt to the global Association<br />
environmental damage and threats to cotton farmers'<br />
livelihoods caused by conventional cotton farming and The campaign is launched by the Soil Association and<br />
processing. the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the leading<br />
standard for organic textile processing.<br />
Up to 80% of world cotton production currently comes<br />
from Genetically Modified (GM) crops (with 95% of the The campaign asks brands as well as consumers and<br />
seed in India controlled by one company: Monsanto). In NGOs to “cotton on” to organic cotton production and<br />
addition, more than U.S. $3 billion worth of pesticides that processing, by signing up on the new micro-site<br />
can cause a variety of risks to humans and the environment www.cottonedon.org, uniting supporters of sustainable<br />
were used on conventional cotton in 2010. cotton across the globe.<br />
At the same time, worldwide demand for organic cotton The campaign is detailed in a briefing paper released<br />
is set to grow by at least 10% in 2011-2012. “Have You Cottoned On Yet?”, which spells out the 5<br />
unique benefits of organic production<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
29
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
Raymond Targets European Markets<br />
After achieving remarkable success in the domestic operates six textile plants and four garment factories across<br />
market, Raymond is now focusing on the EU market. It India and Europe employing over 33,000 people. Raymond<br />
wants to increase its presence in the Europe particularly<br />
Germany over the next two seasons. Currently, Raymond<br />
operates around 650 stores in more than 200 cities in India.<br />
manufactures 800,000 tailored jackets and 2 million<br />
trousers, as well as 3 million pairs of jeans per year.<br />
<strong>International</strong>ly, it has a presence with 39 stores across the<br />
Middle East, Saudi Arabia, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh,<br />
spanning a retail area of over 1 million sq. ft.<br />
Mishra feels, it is easy to get the customer when the<br />
product is offered at just a little lesser cost than others.<br />
However, he feels selling products to foreign clients is a<br />
Raymond offers collections based on the 'whole life<br />
concept' with each of its range relating to different age<br />
groups and price brackets. With this, the brand has been<br />
successful in retaining its customer base throughout the<br />
lifetime. Mukesh Mishra, Business Head at Raymond<br />
Europe says the growth that has happened in India over the<br />
tough task as it takes time to educate them that just because a<br />
product is Made in India does not mean quality is<br />
compromised. However, Raymond's overall export sales<br />
have grown by 18-20 per cent. Raymond believes that not<br />
adding costs on top of costs has helped the brand in<br />
achieving this success.<br />
past 10 years is continuing at the same pace, particularly in<br />
Tier II, III and IV cities.<br />
Each season, Raymond brings out its products in<br />
new fabric qualities showcasing brand's diverse<br />
Being the world's largest worsted wool fabric capabilities. For spring/ summer 2013 the designers<br />
manufacturer, Raymond produces 42 million metres of foregrounded wool/linen and wool/cotton, as well as<br />
fabric annually. Also, it produces over 80 million metres of wool/mohair. For the classic collection the texture is soft,<br />
denim and 10.5 million metres of shirtings. The brand with clear cut finishing showing off a little shine.<br />
DYFI: Ready To Launch A Women's Denim Line<br />
DYFI the jeans wear brand from ShriLaksmiCotsyn, a part DYFI's product portfolio for men include jeans,<br />
of Shri Lakshmi Group that was introduced after a test casual shirts, tees, shorts, pants, cargos, pullovers, jackets<br />
launch in Autumn/Winter 2010 is already giving stiff and accessories like belts, caps in the price range Rs 399 to<br />
competition to leading denim brands. And now, after Rs 1,799. The brand is aimed at the youth aged 12- 40 years.<br />
completing a successful year with its men's line DYFI is “We did not want to sell just garments; we wanted to sell<br />
getting ready with it women's line to be launched in attitude along with the garment and hence wanted to<br />
Spring/Summer 2013. Also on the agenda is a special line promote fitness lifestyle,” opines Gupta. “Our main focus is<br />
for men. Sanjay Gupta, President, DYFI says the brand's on Tier II, III cities only through distributors and franchisee.<br />
positioning is “Let fitness be your lifestyle, that is, one Initially, the focus is to consolidate networking in north<br />
needs to be fit to wear our garments. Hence, the name: Do India.”<br />
You Fit In,” E-retailing too would be pursued aggressively<br />
and is expected to contribute 40 per cent to the total sales.<br />
Shri Lakshmi Group started its journey with<br />
manufacturing of shirting and suiting and gradually<br />
The brand DYFI kicked off its retail journey with the broadened its product basket to include an entire gamut of<br />
opening of its first exclusive store in Delhi. And within a textiles. The list comprises of denim fabric, home<br />
short span it has launched six more stores in North India. furnishing (under domestic brand – Weaves), garments,<br />
Commenting on the brand's retail drive, Gupta says, “In the quilted fabric, embroidery fabric, fusible interlining fabric<br />
first year, we intend opening 12 EBOs and by the end of under the brand name Star Track, technical textile fabric,<br />
fourth year, we would have 60 EBOs. We are also targeting bullet proof jackets, high altitude fabrics, zippers, ballistic<br />
1,500 MBOs and four LFS by the end of second year.” The products and armoured vehicles. ShriLaksmiCotsyn that<br />
EBOs are franchise owned and serviced through launched the DYFI brand has commissioned state-of-thedistributors.<br />
“Every distributor has target to open and art garment factory at Roorkee with an installed capacity of<br />
operate three EBOs to sustain their <strong>business</strong> since we plan 6.6 million pieces per annum. Gupta sums up by saying<br />
to have 25 distributors, we expect 60 EBOs can be achieved “This is our first year in market we have targeted a turnover<br />
much before the targeted time.” of Rs 20 crores and billing value and Rs 40 crores at MRP.”<br />
30<br />
September-October 2012
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
Bombay Dyeing, best known for its bed and bath While textiles contribute 23 per cent to Bombay's<br />
range is currently undergoing a restructuring process, Dyeing total revenues (Rs 2,234.49 crores), the current<br />
which would not only give it a new identity but also expand economic slump in the textile industry may have driven the<br />
its existing product portfolio. By early next year, the company to explore related avenues in its bed and bath<br />
company is looking at re-launching its textile brand as a categories like furniture and home accessories, which could<br />
home solutions provider by exploring segments beyond<br />
bed and bath products.<br />
also complement its profit making real estate <strong>business</strong>.<br />
Apart from creating a different brand identity for its<br />
After incurring losses worth Rs 3.66 crores last<br />
quarter, the company is restructuring to convert the textile<br />
assets into retail ones, ultimately to cater to the different<br />
consumer segments. The company expects to break even<br />
this year by offering better product differentiation and<br />
marketing.<br />
new range, it is also in the process of refurbishing its 300<br />
odd franchise shops. The company introduced its textile<br />
brand by setting up its first franchise operated store in<br />
Jeddah in Saudi Arabia recently and would launch more<br />
stores in West Asia and the SAARC countries<br />
DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH opens new European<br />
Warehouse in Biebesheim<br />
Investment seen as important signal for Germany as a location for Business<br />
Eric Hopmann, Managing Director of DyStar Colours<br />
Distribution GmbH (right) and Gerald Floss, 4PL Central<br />
Station Deutschland GmbH officially open the<br />
new European warehouse in Biebesheim, Germany<br />
locations can be centralized in the new warehouse which<br />
allows us to become more efficient and flexible in our<br />
customer supply process.<br />
We are happy to have found a partner in 4PL Central<br />
Station Deutschland GmbH that will support us in the future<br />
as professional logisticians.“ The chairman of the Lonsheng<br />
Group congratulates the teams of DyStar and 4PL for the<br />
quick and successful implementation of this project.<br />
The attendants of the event could view the modern<br />
equipment on a tour through the warehouse. The 5.000<br />
square meter distribution centre was built within 4 months.<br />
All in all, 3.000 tons of concrete and 180 tons of steel were<br />
used to build the warehouse with a 12 meter high rack<br />
system. In accordance with the special regulations for<br />
textile dyes and chemicals, a containment area for<br />
repacking liquids and equipment to stir liquids when<br />
repacking is available.<br />
With a customer event, DyStar Colours Distribution<br />
GmbH, located in Frankfurt-Hoechst, together with 4PL<br />
Central Station Deutschland GmbH, officially started up<br />
the new European warehouse in Biebesheim. 4PL invested For the DyStar group which is headquartered in<br />
about 2.7 Mio Euro to establish this state-of-the-art Singapore, the German and European textile markets play<br />
distribution warehouse for DyStar, in which the inventory an important role despite the crisis in Europe. As the global<br />
of textile dyes and textile auxiliaries is stored. In 2011 the market leader and dyestuff specialist for the textile and<br />
<strong>business</strong> of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH showed leather industry, DyStar has several manufacturing sites in<br />
double-digit growth and the new warehouse is an additional<br />
Europe -- in Ludwigshafen, Germany, in Portugal and in<br />
milestone to continue the company‘s expansion path.<br />
Turkey.<br />
“This investment is an important strategic step which<br />
Following the motto “Global presence – local support“,<br />
will bring forth considerable improvement in our logistics<br />
“says Eric Hopmann, Managing Director of DyStar<br />
DyStar and its 2.500 employees offer ISO-certified<br />
Colours Distribution GmbH. “Our capacities from three products and extensive services.<br />
The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />
Bombay Dyeing Is Looking At Re-Launching Its Textile Brand<br />
31
BUSINESS NEWS<br />
With Lectra Fashion PLM, Baroque streamlines development<br />
and communication for Moussy<br />
The Japanese company Baroque will extend Lectra Fashion PLM to other brands<br />
later this year to drive global <strong>business</strong> strategy<br />
Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology internal teams and a master product list for merchandising<br />
solutions dedicated to industries using soft<br />
materials—textiles, leather, industrial fabrics, and<br />
and promotion planning.<br />
composite materials—is pleased to announce that the Information was not systematically shared with the<br />
Japanese company Baroque successfully implemented entire Moussy team, which led to lost time through<br />
Lectra Fashion PLM for their top brand, Moussy, in June. unnecessary duplication of tasks.<br />
They will extend implementation to Sly and other Lectra Fashion PLM contributed to a significant and<br />
brands before the end of 2012. Baroque is a leading fast- immediate reduction in documentation and an increase in<br />
fashion brand-retailer for young Japanese women. The visibility of each team member’s work. “With higher<br />
company has experienced continuous growth despite a visibility, we can continue to streamline the way we work<br />
stagnant Japanese apparel market, with revenues reaching for increased agility. For example, instead of preparing<br />
55.1 billion yen (+25% compared to the previous year) and separate documents for merchandisers and marketing, these<br />
an operating income of 7 billion yen.<br />
teams can simply rely on PLM to find the information they<br />
need,” Tanaka continues. This not only reduces workload,<br />
“We chose Lectra after carefully researching over 10 but also pushes information where it is needed, rather than<br />
domestic and international solution providers,” explains requiring people to hunt down details. This was an<br />
Jun Tanaka, Information Technology Department Manager important consideration for Baroque, as one of the<br />
at Baroque. “This is our first time working with Lectra, and company’s strategic goals is to aggressively expand into the<br />
their expertise in apparel-dedicated tools and global Chinese market.<br />
presence were very attractive to us. Design and<br />
implementation were completed quickly, and Lectra In addition to streamlining apparel development and<br />
Fashion PLM went live for Moussy exactly as planned in internal communication in Japan, a synchronized team will<br />
June.”<br />
be needed to support future growth in China. Baroque’s<br />
objective is to have 100 shops in China by January 2014, an<br />
increase from the 19 in place as of June this year. “Our<br />
<strong>business</strong> model requires delivery of new items to shops 2 or<br />
3 times per week. In order for us to succeed in China, where<br />
competition is becoming increasingly intense, it is critical<br />
to master information by having an infrastructure that<br />
supports the entire product flow from planning and<br />
development to shop delivery. In order to succeed abroad, it<br />
is important to redefine our process and streamline the flow<br />
of information with a global perspective,” said Isao Sado,<br />
CFO, Baroque.<br />
Prior to investing in a PLM solution, Baroque<br />
conducted an internal audit to identify areas of<br />
improvement. They determined the root cause of their<br />
challenges to be in the early stages of planning and<br />
development, as well as in communication.<br />
As a fast-growing, trend-oriented, fast-fashion<br />
<strong>business</strong> focused on aggressive and rapid expansion,<br />
Baroque deals with a growing number of increasingly<br />
varied items produced in small volumes, under a number of<br />
different brands. Before implementing Lectra Fashion<br />
PLM, Baroque relied on email and spreadsheets to link<br />
32<br />
“In order to succeed in a difficult economy and under<br />
fierce competition, fashion companies must equip<br />
themselves with a strong process and tools that give them<br />
the flexibility to react to continuous market evolutions,”<br />
emphasizes Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO. “We are pleased<br />
that our forty years of expertise in fashion have benefited<br />
Baroque in such a fundamental way.”<br />
“For a successful PLM implementation, it is important<br />
to build good communication, both internally and with your<br />
technology partner. During the internal audit period, we<br />
made sure that our entire team was involved and shared the<br />
challenge together. Lectra did the same and we appreciate<br />
their commitment,” Tanaka concluded.<br />
September-October 2012