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The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

Editorial 18<br />

SRTEPC Sets Challenging Target Of US$ 7 Billion For The Year 2012-13 19<br />

Textiles Committee : A Facilitator For Quality Improvement in Indian Textile And Clothing Industry 20<br />

Multi Brand Retailing to Create Opportunities for T&C sector 24<br />

Arvind Acquires Debenhams, Nautica and Next Business in India 25<br />

Siyaram Set To Transform TheIndian Male Fashion With Free Fall Fabric For “Trousering” 25<br />

Trident conferred with “CITI Birla Award for Human Resource Management in Textile Mills” 26<br />

DIESEL launches Italian street wear brand 55DSL in India 26<br />

Dollar Industries Diversifies Into Lifestyle Apparels 27<br />

Successful Production Of Levafix Blue Ca 27<br />

Clariant Makes Sustainability Measurable For Textile Mills And Brands 28<br />

Euratex Strongly Disappointed with Pakistan’s Waiver Approval 29<br />

Cutting Through Eco-confusion 29<br />

Raymond Targets European Markets 30<br />

DYFI: Ready To Launch A Women's Denim Line 30<br />

Bombay Dyeing Is Looking At Re-Launching Its Textile Brand 31<br />

Dystar Colours Distribution Gmbh Opens New European Warehouse In Biebesheim 31<br />

With Lectra Fashion Plm, Baroque Streamlines Development And Communication For Moussy 32<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

17


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E D I T O R I A L<br />

Indian Apparel Industry Is Pinning Its<br />

Hopes On The Upcoming Festive Season<br />

Even as the economic slowdown in the West continues to<br />

impact garment and textile exports from India, the domestic front<br />

especially the retail segment continues hope for some positive<br />

cheer during the festive season. This, despite the fact, that many of<br />

them have been forced to put their expansion plans and<br />

investments on hold.<br />

While the period between May to September has seen poor<br />

sales, industry is pinning its hopes on the upcoming festive season.<br />

According to yarn, fabric and home textile players, the demand is<br />

certainly picking up ensuring higher capacity utilisation in the last<br />

one month. D K Nair, Secretary General of Confederation of<br />

Indian Textile Industry (CITI) says, textile players have witnessed<br />

an increase in orders which has led to higher capacity utilization.<br />

Things are not back to the good old days, but the situation is better<br />

now. But theirs is still a reason to worry, because demand is only<br />

being seen in certain segments like denim and cotton. India's<br />

garment exports fell by 10.5 per cent year-on-year to $1.1 billion<br />

(Rs 5,979 crores) in June due to weak export demand. Apparel<br />

Export Promotion Council (AEPC) figures reveal, exports stood at<br />

$1.2 billion (Rs 6,520 crores) in the same period last financial<br />

year.<br />

Interestingly, while on one hand denim and cotton players<br />

are expanding their capacities to cater to growing demand and on<br />

the other hand slowdown in retail is impacting it negatively. So<br />

though many players availed of the benefits of Technology<br />

Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) in the last few years to<br />

expand capacities, it is currently not being utilised. However, to<br />

improve the situation, TUFS is being made available for a longer<br />

period of time. “We are supporting the industry in every way, we<br />

are pushing for TUFS to be included in the 12th Five Year Plan,”<br />

said Panabaka Lakshmi, Minister of State for Textiles.<br />

For the current fiscal, export target is pegged at $40.5 billion<br />

(Rs 2,20,158 crores), which seems unachievable given the current<br />

economic situation in major export destinations like Europe and<br />

the US.<br />

Meanwhile, cotton textile segment too has been facing<br />

tough times with first cotton prices going above Rs 50,000 per<br />

candy (356 kg) a year and a half ago and later, cotton yarn spinning<br />

mills going on strike. By the time cotton prices corrected, most<br />

mills were in debt. As of now, around 300 textile companies have<br />

applied for debt restructuring of Rs 35,000 crores.<br />

Simultaneously, rising crude oil prices have made synthetic yarn<br />

costlier.<br />

Thus the bottom line is that the textile and apparel makers<br />

are facing tough times with So Indian Industry Is Pinning Its<br />

Hopes On The Upcoming Festive Season of Dasehra and Diwali<br />

18<br />

September-October 2012


SRTEPC NEWS - SYNTHETIC & RAYON TEXTILES EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL<br />

SRTEPC Sets Challenging Target Of US$ 7 Billion For The Year 2012-13<br />

Shri Vinod K. Ladia, Chairman, The Synthetic & Rayon<br />

Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) addressing<br />

th<br />

the 58 Annual General Meeting of the Council<br />

th<br />

in Mumbai on 10 September 2012.<br />

Mohammed and Hon'ble Union Minister of State for<br />

Textiles, Smt. Panaba ka Lakshmi. The Hon'ble Malaysian<br />

Minister of <strong>International</strong> Trade & Industry appreciated the<br />

initiative taken by the Council in organizing INTEXPO and<br />

hoped that it would go a long way in establishing Malaysia<br />

as a textile hub in the ASEAN region.<br />

Speaking on the promotional programme during the<br />

year 2012-13, the Chairman said that the landmark event of<br />

the year would be the INTEXPO in Pakistan which is being<br />

organized by the Council in Karachi and Lahore during<br />

October 2012. He further stated that Pakistan has emerged<br />

as the leading market for Indian man-made fibre textiles<br />

and the Exhibition would provide an excellent opportunity<br />

to further strengthen trade ties with our immediate<br />

neighbour. He further averred that INTEXPO Pakistan is<br />

The ambitious target of US $ 5.5 billion set by the being organized with the active support of the High<br />

Council for the year 2011-12 was not only achieved but Commission of India in Pakistan and the Karachi and<br />

surpassed informed Shri Vinod K. Ladia, Chairman, The Lahore Chambers of the Commerce & Industry and Trade<br />

Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council Development Authority of Pakistan.<br />

while addressing the Annual General Meeting in Mumbai<br />

on 10th September 2012. The Chairman said that despite Dwelling on the policy matters the Chairman said that<br />

the difficulties faced by Indian exporters in the overseas there is need for urgent stimuli by way of Policy support<br />

markets and unfavourable situation at home, exports of from the Government and the Council has suggested some<br />

Indian man-made fibre textiles touched Rs.26974 crores of the urgent measures to be taken in this regard to the<br />

(US$ 5699 million) during 2011-12 registering a growth Government including the Hon'ble Union Minister of<br />

almost 19%. Encouraged by the performance the Council<br />

has set a challenging target of US$ 7 billion for the year<br />

Commerce and Textiles.<br />

2012-13, said Shri Ladia. The Chairman elaborated that the Council has made a<br />

proposal to introduce an Additional Scrip of 5% to those<br />

The Chairman noted with satisfaction that exports of<br />

man-made fibre textiles during 2011-12 were directed to<br />

over 140 countries around the globe and Pakistan with<br />

Rs.2341 crores had emerged as the leading market for<br />

Indian man-made fibre textiles followed by United Arab<br />

Emirates (Rs.2341 crores) and Brazil (Rs.1867 crores).<br />

exporters who achieve incremental exports of a minimum<br />

25% growth during the remaining part of the financial year.<br />

Shri Ladia also pleaded for availability of funds at lower<br />

rate for the industry to make it competitive and extension of<br />

interest subvention to all sectors of the Indian textile<br />

industry irrespective of their size and investment.<br />

Talking about the promotional programmes the<br />

Chairman said that there has been substantial increase in<br />

exports of our items to those destinations where the Council<br />

organised promotional programmes such as Saudi Arabia,<br />

Kuwait, Colombia , Ecuador and Bangladesh.<br />

Shri Ladia pointed out that as suggested by the<br />

Council countries such as Algeria, Ukraine, Argentina,<br />

Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile and Bolivia were included under<br />

the Focus Market Scheme. He also urged the Government<br />

to include countries like Pakistan and Saudi Arabia which<br />

The Chairman informed that the highlight of the are the leading markets for Man made Fibre Textiles and<br />

promotional programmes during the year 2011-12 was the Mercosur countries like Brazil under the Focus Market<br />

INTEXPO Malaysia, the biggest ever Exposition of Indian<br />

textile and clothing in the ASEAN region organized during<br />

Scheme.<br />

November 2011 in which nearly 100 companies He also stressed the need for inclusion of Man Made<br />

participated. The event was organized in the wake of the fibre fabrics under the Focus Product Scheme. He opined<br />

signing of India Malaysia Comprehensive Economic that the MMF fabrics industry is labour intensive and<br />

Co-operation which opened up a myriad trade substantial manufacturing takes place in the un-organised<br />

opportunities for both the countries. INTEXPO Malaysia sector and result in employment generation. And thus there<br />

was jointly inaugurated by the Hon'ble Minister of is huge export potential for these fabrics and hence deserve<br />

<strong>International</strong> Trade & Industry, Dato' Sri Mustapa Bin encouragement, he added.<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

19


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

Textiles Committee : A Facilitator For Quality Improvement in<br />

Indian Textile And Clothing Industry.<br />

Dr P.Nayak ,Secretary, Textiles Committee,<br />

Government of India,Ministry of Textiles<br />

required; developing Test Methods, Providing guidance for<br />

selection of technical personnel and purchase of<br />

equipments etc.; Imparting training to the industry<br />

personnel on testing for mechanical, Chemical, Eco and<br />

Effluent parameters depending upon the requirement of the<br />

organization. Besides, Textiles Committee undertakes<br />

laboratory accreditation consultancy services also. The<br />

activities under the laboratory accreditation consultancy<br />

include guidance for the preparation of Quality Manual and<br />

other documents complying with the requirements of<br />

ISO/IEC-17025:2005 and their implementation; Imparting<br />

training on calibration of equipments and for ensuring<br />

traceability with standards of measurement; Guidance<br />

provided for conducting internal audit and calculating<br />

uncertainty measurement as required by NABL.<br />

Committee also conducts Inter Laboratory Proficiency<br />

Testing (ILPT) in which the textile testing laboratories not<br />

only from India but also from South East Asia also<br />

participate.<br />

1. What is the Textiles Committee’s role in promoting<br />

Indian Textile and Apparel industry’s interests?<br />

Textiles Committee's main objective is to ensure the<br />

quality of textiles and textile machinery both for internal<br />

consumption and export purposes. The Textiles<br />

Committee, as corollary to its main objective of ensuring<br />

the quality of textiles and textiles machinery has been<br />

entrusted with functions such as (I) undertaking, assisting<br />

and encouraging scientific, technological and economic<br />

research; (ii) establishing standard specifications for<br />

textiles and packing materials; (iii) establishing<br />

Cluster Development initiatives are taken up in three<br />

handloom clusters namely; Bijnore (U.P.), Shantipur<br />

(W.B.) and Trichy (T.N.) for capacity building of the<br />

stakeholders of the industry as part of the Government of<br />

India programme. This initiative helped to increase<br />

awareness amongst the handloom weavers and other<br />

stakeholders of the need for networking of services for the<br />

development of handlooms including development of<br />

marketing infrastructure for better quality of production for<br />

domestic and overseas markets.<br />

laboratories for the testing of textiles (iv) providing training<br />

in the techniques of quality control; (v) providing for the<br />

inspection and examination of textiles (vi) promoting<br />

export of textiles; (vii) collecting statistics; and (vii)<br />

advising the Central Government on all matters relating to<br />

textiles and textile machinery, etc.<br />

As part of fulfilling the mandate of collection and<br />

dissemination of statistics and other marker research<br />

information relating to the textile industry, the Market<br />

Research Wing is carrying out several studies and surveys<br />

in the field of textiles in the country. These reports are used<br />

as the base for policy prescriptions by the policy makers of<br />

As part of the export facilitation activities, Textiles the country. In order to capture the preferences of the<br />

Committee are presently issuing various certificates consumers and the market size of the domestic textile<br />

namely, Generalised System of Preferences (GSP); industry and other parameters, Committee is regularly<br />

Certificate of Origin, Handloom Origin Certificate; and organising a national survey titled, National Household<br />

Non-Preferential Certificate. The other areas of export Survey: Market for Textiles and Clothing in the country. In<br />

promotion include the Quality Inspection of Fabrics and addition to this, it has also undertaking analysis on Export<br />

Garments for exports, Classification of Garments; and<br />

imparting ‘Quality Checkers' Training’ to improve the<br />

quality of textile products.<br />

Competitiveness of India besides providing information to<br />

the industry on Non- Tariff Barriers (NTBs) imposed by<br />

other countries and importers, which very few<br />

organizations are providing now.<br />

The Laboratories Wing of Textiles Committee<br />

provides consultancy to setup Textile Testing Laboratories 2. Please explain about successful projects taken by<br />

in the country with the objective of improving quality of<br />

textiles. This includes planning the lay out, identification of<br />

equipments, Accessories, Chemicals and other items<br />

Textiles Committee?<br />

Assessment and Rating of Cotton Ginning and<br />

Pressing Factories in India - to cultivate quality culture and<br />

20<br />

September-October 2012


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

improve the technology and thus improving the value of (OHSAS 18001) and Other Management Systems consists<br />

products in domestic as well as international markets. This of Awareness Programmes, In-house training Programme<br />

scheme specifies the requirements for assessment & rating on Statistical Process Control, Internal Quality Audit and<br />

of modernized ginning & pressing factories in the country Third party Audit besides extending assistance at the time<br />

by Textiles Committee to facilitate (a) Ginning & pressing of Surveillance Audit.<br />

factories to know their present status and identify the scope<br />

for improvement; (b) Ginning & pressing factories to boost The Export Promotion and Quality Assurance<br />

the credibility of their factory and use the rating as an<br />

effective marketing tool; © Cotton traders to select ginning<br />

& pressing factories for processing their cotton to their<br />

quality requirements; (d) Spinning mills to select<br />

appropriate ginning & pressing factories for sourcing<br />

cotton to their requirements; and (e) Creation of a brand for<br />

clean cotton. The assessment has instrumental in informing<br />

the deficiencies and to make them quality conscious. Some<br />

of the spill over effects of the scheme has been the<br />

development of infrastructure by the G&P units and also<br />

the development of best management practices. The units<br />

are graded with different ratings starting from ‘one star’ to<br />

‘five star’. Now efforts are on to accept this rating<br />

certificate for availing various schemes of state and central<br />

government as well as bank loans etc. for the development<br />

of the units.<br />

Division (EPQA) of the Textiles Committee is the First<br />

Accredited Inspection Body in Asia under ISO 17020 (Type<br />

"A" Inspection Body). ISO 17020 standard specifies<br />

general criterion for the competence of impartial bodies<br />

performing inspection. It also specifies independence<br />

criteria of inspection bodies. Implementation of this<br />

standard gives international recognition to the organization<br />

in relation to the inspection activity. Textiles Committee has<br />

more than four decades of experience in carrying out<br />

inspections of textiles and clothing. The quality inspection<br />

schemes for yarn, woven textile fabrics, Made-up articles<br />

and Readymade Garments have been developed on the<br />

basis of requirements in national and international<br />

standards by way of defining the flaws, sampling plan,<br />

inspection methodology, acceptance criteria, sealing<br />

stamping, etc. These schemes are aimed at providing the<br />

textile trade and industry a customer friendly third party<br />

Hon'ble Prime Minister of India has inaugurated the inspection of their products.<br />

Handloom Mark Scheme for which Textiles Committee is<br />

the implementing agency in the country. This scheme is not The globalisation has brought about enormous<br />

only meant for the benefit of handloom weavers and challenges to the trade and industry; and the worst sufferers<br />

exporters but also for the consumers of the handloom are the producers of unique textile products who loose their<br />

products. The handloom mark is aimed at providing a<br />

collective identity to the hand woven products made in<br />

India. The products bearing handloom mark give assurance<br />

to the buyer about the genuineness of the origin of<br />

handloom product being purchased. The handloom mark is<br />

supporting the well being of the weavers, who are from the<br />

economically weaker sections of the society. By virtue of<br />

the sale of the Handloom Mark products, the employment<br />

of the weavers are expected to increase which in turn leads<br />

to regular work to them. This will result better price<br />

realisation to the handloom products and hence improve the<br />

living standard of the weavers in the country. During 2011-<br />

12, there were 1220 new registrations of manufacturers/<br />

exporters for Handloom mark and 55,49,617 labels were<br />

sold.<br />

market due to large-scale infringement of the product. The<br />

promulgation of Geographical Indication (GI) Act, 1999 by<br />

Government of India has created an avenue for protection<br />

of these unique products of the country. The GI Act<br />

stipulates protection of the market of the producers and<br />

safeguards the interests of the consumers of these unique<br />

products through registration and taking infringement<br />

action against the infringers. It is believed, that the IPR<br />

Protection of unique textiles products of the country with a<br />

predetermined market linkage strategy would help in brand<br />

building of the product, providing market linkages,<br />

generating more employment opportunities and enhanced<br />

income to the stakeholders. With this objective, Textiles<br />

Committee has been spearheading a nationwide campaign<br />

in the country through facilitating GI registration of<br />

potential products and technical knowledge transfers.<br />

Textiles Committee is the single largest service Besides the Committee is disseminating the trade related<br />

provider in the country for the quality improvement in the information for capacity building. As a part of this<br />

textiles & clothing industry. So far, 628 textiles companies endeavour, the Committee has facilitated the GI registration<br />

have availed of the services of Textiles Committee in of more than 20 products including Lucknow Chikan Craft,<br />

implementation of ISO 9000, ISO 14000, SA 8000, and Banaras Saree & Brocades of Uttar Pradesh, Khandua Saree<br />

OHSAS 18000 standards. The Consultancy in & Fabrics, Pipli Applique of Orissa, Surat Zari of Gujarat,<br />

implementation of ISO 9000 Quality Management Systems Paithani Saree of Maharashtra, Bhagalpur Silk of Bihar,<br />

(QMS) and ISO 14000 Environment Management Systems Guledgudda Fabrics of Karnataka etc.<br />

(EMS); SA 8000 Social Accountability Standard;<br />

Occupational Health and Safety Assessment Series In addition to this, Textiles Committee has carried out<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

21


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

several knowledge-based unique studies based on textile building; prepare the stakeholders to mitigate the adverse<br />

industry such as - Market Basket Survey of Tirupur and effect of NTBs; to collect feedback from the stakeholders<br />

Chennai; Assessment of Technical Manpower for the for better policy decisions; prepare a common code of<br />

apparel industry; Census of Textile Engineering Industry in compliance acceptable to overseas buyers; and update the<br />

India; Impact assessment of MGNREGA scheme on the compendium on NTBs using the feedback received in the<br />

Textile Consumption in Rural India etc. workshop.<br />

3. Explain about the new initiatives for 2012 & 2013? In addition to this, it also planned to organise cluster<br />

With the aim to improving the protection of human level data collection of important textile clusters of the<br />

health and the environment through the better and earlier country and a study to assess the principal implications of<br />

identification of the intrinsic properties of chemical the Goods & Services Tax (GST) regime and to suggest the<br />

substances and their safe use, the European Community best option among the various options based on some<br />

enforced a law, called “Registration, Evaluation,<br />

Authorisation and Restriction of Chemical substances<br />

rationale.<br />

(REACH)”. The benefits of the REACH system will come 4. How Textiles Committee plans to focus on Technical<br />

gradually, as more and more substances are phased into Textiles?<br />

REACH. The manufacturers and importers are required to The over all growth of technical textiles in India is<br />

gather information on the properties of their chemical estimated at 14 percent per annum with appropriate policy<br />

substances, which will allow their safe handling, and to regime and accordingly the market size for technical<br />

register the information in a central database run by the textiles has increased from Rs. 37100 crores in 2007-08 to<br />

European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). The Laboratory<br />

wing of the Committee has drawn up a programme to<br />

develop testing facilities under REACH regulations and<br />

Rs. 62420 crores in 2012-13 at a CAGR of 11 percent. One<br />

of the constraints in the Indian scenario is considered as lack<br />

of basic infrastructure, skilled manpower, testing facilities,<br />

testing facilities for testing of Technical textiles also.<br />

training & educational facilities. In order to meet the<br />

The implementation of Laboratory Information<br />

constraints in the field of testing, Committee has initiated a<br />

programme to develop testing facilities to technical textiles<br />

Management System (LIMS) in all the laboratories of the in the country and more focus will be on the North East<br />

Committee is under process to serve the industry in a better Region.<br />

and efficient way. Implementation of ISO Quality<br />

Management Systems in Government Departments - 5. Explain in details of the Textiles Committee's<br />

Office of the Textile Commissioner in Mumbai as well as in structure and branches all over India and their<br />

its 9 Regional Offices and in the Ministry of Textiles and<br />

other Central Government Offices will be taken up soon by<br />

the Textiles Committee for implementation.<br />

mandates.<br />

Textiles Committee, in the post liberalisation era, has<br />

reoriented its role from being a regulatory organisation to<br />

become a facilitator for quality improvement in Indian<br />

Another area where Committee starts focusing is the textile and clothing industry. The committee renders<br />

Non-Tariff Barriers (NTBs) as most of the countries have valuable service to the industry through a net work of 29<br />

been using NTBs as a major trade restrictive measure for regional offices situated in the major textile<br />

denying market access to the export interest of other manufacturing/export centres in the country with its Head<br />

countries. Non Tariff Barriers (NTBs) are trade barriers Office at Mumbai. Of the 29 regional offices, 17 offices are<br />

other than tariff barriers and can take various forms. These equipped with testing facilities. All the offices are manned<br />

measures are being imposed in the name of Quality, Social by textile technologists who are available for the industry<br />

and Environment, Ethical Compliances Standards and for their day-to-day activities.<br />

many more. Further, these country specific barriers are<br />

complemented by the importers/buyers with private<br />

standards, which, the importers project as <strong>business</strong> &<br />

market promotion tools. Keeping the growing importance<br />

of these barriers and its adverse effect on the export interest<br />

6. What is the need of Indian Textile and Apparel<br />

industry to fare better in the future on the domestic<br />

front and also on export front?<br />

The tax reforms, initiated in 1991, have sought to<br />

of the sector, Textiles Committee in association with the rationalise the tax structure and increase compliance by<br />

Ministry of Textiles and Export Promotion Councils taking steps in the directions (I) reducing the rates of<br />

(EPCs) has initiated the capacity building programmes of<br />

the stakeholders. As a part of this programme, a series of<br />

NTBs Related Capacity Building Programme (CBP) will<br />

individual and corporate income taxes, excises, customs<br />

and making it more progressive; (ii) reducing exemptions<br />

be organized in the major textile export centres of the and concessions; (iii) simplification of laws and<br />

country. The objectives of these programme is capacity procedures; (iv) introduction of permanent account number<br />

22<br />

September-October 2012


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

(PAN) to track monetary transactions; (v) value added tax decentralized sector is unaware of the national as well as the<br />

(VAT) to replace the complex and multiple sales tax system. international standards. Therefore, to increase awareness<br />

The need of the present time is to synergise the structure of among apparel manufacturers on the required national and<br />

taxation systems and policy reforms. international compliance standards, and to assess, train and<br />

In the export front also, the immediate focus should be<br />

on trade facilitation activities, simplification of procedure<br />

and development of infrastructure.<br />

guide them to upgrade the workplace conditions and labour<br />

standards in their facilities, the Ministry of Textiles has<br />

implemented a pan- India initiative called DISHA- Driving<br />

Industry towards Sustainable Human Capital Advancement<br />

The core impediment in the development of the textile – through Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). The<br />

industry in the country is the lack of infrastructure. In order DISHA is a first-of-its-kind industry-owned and driven<br />

to address this issue, the Ministry has launched a ‘Scheme initiative, aimed at equipping the Indian apparel industry,<br />

for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP)’ which was launched by especially the small and medium enterprises, towards<br />

merging two schemes, namely, Apparel Parks for Exports becoming more socially and environmentally responsible.<br />

Scheme (APES) and the Textiles Centre Infrastructure Inspired by the philosophy of DISHA, the Indian apparel<br />

Development Scheme (TCIDS). The primary objective of industry is determined to chart a course for itself to make<br />

the SITP is to provide the industry with world-class India a preferred and chosen destination for the global<br />

infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile units. The textile and apparel trade and sourcing.<br />

scheme would facilitate textile units to meet international<br />

Skill development is another area of focus of the<br />

environmental and social standards. The scheme is planned<br />

government. In line with the policy announcement of the<br />

to create new textile parks of international standards at<br />

government of India, the Union Textiles Minister launched<br />

potential growth centres of the industry. The scheme targets<br />

a new Integrated Skill Development Scheme for the<br />

industrial clusters/locations with high growth potential,<br />

Textiles & Apparel Sector, including Jute & Handicrafts<br />

which require strategic interventions by way of providing<br />

with the objective of capacity building of Institutions<br />

world-class infrastructure support. The project cost cover<br />

providing skill development & training in Textiles Sector.<br />

common infrastructure and buildings for production/<br />

The new scheme is expected to envisage skill development<br />

support activities (including textiles engineering,<br />

of 30 lakh persons in 5 years in the textile sector. In the<br />

accessories, packaging), depending on the needs of the ITP.<br />

National Skill Development Policy, a sectoral target of<br />

There will be flexibility in setting up ITPs to suit the local<br />

training 100 lakh persons by the year 2022 in the Textile<br />

requirements.<br />

Apparel industry is recognized as a major employer in<br />

the textile industry value chain and also as the first point of<br />

entry to industrial work for millions of low skilled and<br />

unskilled workers. With its labour intensive nature and<br />

considering the female employment intensity, the apparel<br />

sector plays a crucial role in the development of nations,<br />

especially in developing countries, by its contribution to<br />

social and economic development and in elimination of<br />

poverty. A distinctive feature of India’s textile industry is<br />

the functions and processes throughout the value chain -<br />

from cotton production to textiles to apparel making and<br />

exports. A majority of the units which are operating in the<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

23<br />

sector has been fixed. The Scheme also envisages<br />

concurrent evaluation and the performance would be<br />

adjudged in the next two years. Based upon the<br />

performance and after making necessary modifications/<br />

adjustments, the Scheme would be scaled up in the next<br />

three years to meet the targets. The scheme is planned in<br />

such a way that all facets of skill development are covered<br />

right from Basic Training, Skill up-gradation, Advanced<br />

Training in emerging technologies, Training of Trainers,<br />

orientation towards modern technology, retraining, skill up<br />

gradation, managerial skill, entrepreneurship development<br />

etc.


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

Multi Brand Retailing to Create Opportunities for T&C sector<br />

Expansion of multi brand retailing expected in the medium term. Moreover, the slowdown of Chinese<br />

wake of the recent decision of government to allow FDI in economy and Vietnam, one of the lead players in the textile<br />

the sector will create unprecedented opportunities for the sector,would provide some competitive relief to India as the<br />

textiles and clothing industry of India according to a paper global demand starts to grow along with recovery. The next<br />

presented by Mr. Thomas Varghese of Aditya Birla Group phase would be really critical for the industry, he said. He<br />

in the Indian Textile Summit organised by Confederation of also observed that among the textile and clothing products,<br />

th<br />

Indian Textile Industry (CITI) on 27 September 2012 in menswear continued to remain the biggest segment at<br />

Mumbai. The well attended summit discussed some of the present, but the growth would be higher in kid's wear and<br />

critical issues and opportunities emerging in the global as<br />

well as Indian textile sector.<br />

women's wear in future, leading to growth opportunities.He<br />

said that among the neighbouring countries Bangladesh<br />

would continue to compete with India on cost advantage;<br />

Welcoming the speakers and participants to the Wal-Mart's apparel sourcing from Bangladesh increased by<br />

Summit, Mr.Prem Malik, Deputy Chairman, CITI stressed 41% in the year 2011 over 2010, he observed.<br />

the need for the clothing industry of the country to improve<br />

production efficiency to meet competition from low cost<br />

Asian competitors. He felt that the country had the potential<br />

to raise its share in global apparel trade from the current 3.1<br />

to 6-7%. He also felt that some of the measures announced<br />

by government recently like liberalizing retail investment<br />

would help the textiles sector to improve its performance.<br />

Mr. Deep Mukherji from Fitch Ratings India Pvt Ltd.<br />

observed that the softening cotton and cotton yarn prices in<br />

first two quarters of the financial year 2011-12 led to a<br />

partial margin revival in the sector but not a full-scale<br />

demand recovery. Mr.Mukherji stressed upon the fact that<br />

reduced substitution demand for synthetic textiles, higher<br />

crude-oil based input costs and oversupply in partially-<br />

Speaking at the summit, Mr. Thomas Varghese said oriented yarn segment were the sources of concern for the<br />

thatT&C products would be the core component of most of industry.<br />

the multi brand outlets because of its high margin and the<br />

ability to create differentiation through private labels. He<br />

felt that this sector would be one of the major beneficiaries<br />

of the liberal retail trade scenario. FDI in Retail would<br />

increase competition but it would also create opportunities<br />

for T&C players to garner scale and become world class<br />

players. Currently clothing occupies 36% of the overall<br />

retail segment and this would increase substantially after<br />

more organised retailers enter the market. He said that<br />

thedemand for readymade and western outfit was growing<br />

Leading textile manufacturers lauded the initiatives<br />

of the states to increase the flow of investment in the sector<br />

by appropriate policy schemes. Speaking at the summit,<br />

Mr. B K Patodia, Chairman, GTN group said that the textile<br />

policy of Maharashtra and Gujarat could drive greater<br />

investments in these states. With the availability of cotton<br />

and other infrastructural facilities like ports and power,<br />

these states could generate immense investment interests<br />

among the textile entrepreneurs. He observed that the rising<br />

cost of production was taking away India's competitiveness<br />

at 40-45% annually, but the key for success in the emerging in the textile sector. High interest rates and power costs<br />

competitive environment would be to deliver affordable<br />

and accessible fashion to the value conscious customers.<br />

were the worrying factors for the textile industry, he said.<br />

Presiding over the concluding session, Mr. S V<br />

Mr.R. RaghuttamaRao, MD, ICRA Management and Arumugam, Chairman CITI said that the industry's<br />

Consultancy Services (IMaCs), in his paper on global fragmented nature and structural weaknesses had been<br />

economic situation observed that global recession had a preventing it from achieving its potential. Some sectors like<br />

negative impact on Indian textile industry but this would be fabric manufacturing and processing still languish as weak<br />

a short term problem. Though the EU members were still in links in the textile value chain. Though enormous<br />

contraction mode and fighting the financial crisis, the opportunities exist in international trade for the clothing<br />

recovery of consumption in US and the possibilities of the segment, here again structural problems were affecting the<br />

market emerging out of slowdown are expected to provide competitiveness of Indian producers, in comparison to<br />

the much needed relief to Indian textile exports in the other Asian industries.<br />

24<br />

September-October 2012


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

ArvindAcquires Debenhams, Nautica and Next Business in India<br />

Arvind Lifestyle Brands, subsidiary of Arvind Ltd, one stores in India from 2 to 8 in the next 3 years. Arvind will<br />

of the largest players in the apparel brands and retail space, enter into the fast growing segment of apparel specialty<br />

announced the acquisition of the <strong>business</strong> operations of retail through Next. Arvind plans to increase to increase<br />

British fashion retailers Debenhams and Next and number of next stores from 3 to 12 in the next 3 years.<br />

American Lifestyle Brand Nautica in India from Planet<br />

Retail. The spokesperson from Debenhams said, “ I'm very<br />

excited by the new chapter to be written together with<br />

Announcing the acquisition, Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Arvind, who are a very solid and experienced retail group<br />

Chairman & Managing Director of Arvind Limited, with a fantastic reputation. I'm confident that within the next<br />

Speaking to The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s said “This acquisition is a 5 years, we'll have 8 fabulous Debenhams stores in 5 of<br />

significant milestone as it signals our entry into the India's biggest cities'.<br />

Department Store Segment and also the globally fast<br />

growing apparel specialty retail segment. American Commenting on the acquisition, spokesperson from<br />

Sportswear Lifestyle Brand Nautica makes us the dominant Next said, “We are very positive about the new franchise<br />

player in the sportswear segment. With this move, we have partnership and are looking forward to Arvind Brands retaken<br />

a big step towards strengthening our position in the launching the next brand in India."<br />

Indian fashion industry. These acquisitions will accelerate<br />

our growth and contribute to our vision of achieving sales The licensing arrangement with Nautica will strengthen<br />

of Rs. 5000 crores over the next 5 years.” Arvind's already strong position in high potential<br />

sportswear segment of the market. The company plans to set<br />

“We have a strong menswear portfolio, which will get up additional 30 Nautica stores taking the tally to 41 free<br />

further strengthened with Nautica. Debenhams & Next will standing Nautica stores and 71 shop in shops in the next 3<br />

substantially strengthen our position in Womenswear & years.<br />

Kidswear segment. We plan to achieve Rs. 500 cr revenue<br />

over next 5 years from current Rs,70 crores by investing “We are excited to be working with Arvind Lifestyle<br />

Rs.150 crores in to these three brands” said J. Suresh, Brands on the further development of this market.” said<br />

Managing Director & CEO, Arvind Lifestyle Brands Maria Vicari, President of Global Licensing, Nautica<br />

Ltd. Apparel Inc. “As we continue to grow our brand footprint<br />

internationally with our licensed operators around the<br />

Acquisition of Debenhams signals the entry of Arvind globe, we look to Arvind with their significant expertise in<br />

into the Bridge to Luxury Department Store segment. brand building in India, to grow Nautica's presence in this<br />

Arvind plans to increase the current number of Debenhams important emerging market.”<br />

Siyaram Set To Transform TheIndian Male<br />

Fashion With Free Fall Fabric For “Trousering”<br />

Keeping its commitment by refurbishing the Indian's Free Fall as the name reveals, is a non-conventional P/V<br />

male attire time and again, Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd has now fabric with an easy drape finish which enables it to curl,<br />

introduced their latest collection “Free Fall” for bend, and fold with the leg movements and jump back easily<br />

“Trousering”. along the trouser length due to an extra weight of its own.<br />

Known as the most popular fashion brand for the finest The fabrics woven out of 2/40s, 2/50s and fancy yarns,<br />

and most premium suiting & shirting fabrics – Siyaram -- are finished with the latest processing procedures for<br />

has now forayed into the trouser segment with the launch of managing the extra weight and the complex blends to<br />

FreeFall to create a niche in the “Trousering” segment. enhance the fine raw material properties and consequently<br />

make them drape and fall effortlessly.<br />

Speaking on the occasion Shri Ramesh Poddar,<br />

Chairman & Managing Director of Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd., Spotted on the global fashion arena, this collection been<br />

said, “The trouser fabrics comprise roughly around 90% of developed to give the wearer an exceptional & unparalleled<br />

the entire fabric market in India. Yet, until now, there was no comfort and style. Free Fall fabrics are manufactured using<br />

brand that specifically focused on this huge segment. The specialty yarns and fibers and are treated with a world class<br />

FREE FALL trouser fabric from Siyaram's is going to finishing system. The eye pleasing designs and colours add<br />

change that. It is designed keeping in mind the dynamic to the right amount of sophistication to the ensemble best<br />

fashion sense and tastes of the new age Indian consumer.” suited for the masculine personality of a male.<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

25


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

The unique properties of the Free Fall fabrics are: · Extremely comfortable<br />

· Bouncing Effect · Lustrous<br />

· Freedom of movement · Luxurious<br />

· Smooth & Silky finish<br />

· Highly refined in structure & finish Free Fall fabrics will impart the ultimate feeling of<br />

· Wrinkle Free relaxation with a stylish look. Free Fall will surely reign<br />

· Excellent fall men's fashion in the time to come.<br />

Trident Conferred with “CITI Birla Award for Human<br />

Resource Management in Textile Mills”<br />

Trident Limited, one of country's leading textile innovative employee engagement initiatives have resulted<br />

manufacturers, was conferred with the prestigious CITI's in winning this coveted award as our people have been<br />

Birla Award for Human Resource Management in Textile continuously contributing to the values and ethics that our<br />

Mills, The award aims at recognizing the path breaking company upholds. It is a combination of various HR<br />

achievements undertaken by organizations to strive initiatives and our belief in fostering a culture that supports<br />

towards formulating innovative HR policies. The award health and well being of every employee. I am obliged to the<br />

was presented to Mr. DK Mittal, Location Head, Budni, confederation for appreciating our efforts and honoring us<br />

Trident Limited, by Mr. SV Arumugam, Chairman, with this award.”<br />

Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI).<br />

This award adds another feather in the hat of Trident<br />

Trident Limited has been privileged by the award for Limited, where Human Resource is considered one of the<br />

adopting the best HR practices across all verticals of HR, most indispensable assets of the organization. Furthermore,<br />

like Organization Development (OD), Recruitment and<br />

Retention and PMS, Reward and Recognition and in<br />

addition has introduced various incentive schemes for<br />

applauding and encouraging the earnability of its high<br />

performing members. This award encourages<br />

entrepreneurship thus, empowering them to take decisions<br />

and promotes ownership within the organization. The<br />

initiatives aim at enhancing the managerial competencies<br />

and to facilitate organizational growth and development.<br />

Trident Limited continues to put a lot of emphasis in<br />

providing an equal opportunity in supporting women<br />

employees and encourage them to be leaders of tomorrow.<br />

Considering the vast talent pool of women in this<br />

organization and the need for mentoring and empowering<br />

women in Trident and the society, Asmita- A women<br />

empowerment forum was launched in 2008. The forum<br />

aspires to focus on health, welfare, education and overall<br />

development of women to make them self reliant. The<br />

Speaking on the occasion, Mr. YPS Kanwar, HR company also keeps organizing various CSR initiatives that<br />

Head, Trident Limited said “It is a moment of pride for us include continuous participation in development of Sacred<br />

to be recognised for excellence in HR practices and Heart School at Barnala, conducting free medical checkup<br />

Management at Trident. People are our biggest assets who camps to address health problems, provision of residential<br />

contribute hugely to the success of our company. Our colonies for operatives at plant sites amongst many others.<br />

DIESEL Launches Italian Street Wear Brand 55DSL In India<br />

55DSL will be available through Diesel retail stores (reliance brands) in Mumbai, Pune,<br />

Bangalore, Gurgaon and Ludhiana this Festive Season<br />

Diesel's Italian street wear brand 55DSL was Commenting on 55DSL's India launch, Sumeet Yadav,<br />

successfully launched in India through a mega event in the Business Head – Diesel India said, “Indian youth today is<br />

beginning of the festive season in Mumbai on<br />

both bold and experimental in their fashion choices. The<br />

nd<br />

22 September. The brand will now be available across<br />

Diesel stores at Palladium, Lower Parel, Mumbai; UB City,<br />

launch of 55DSL in India especially in this festive season<br />

will help us offer these youngsters a fashion variant that is<br />

practical and comfortable, while remaining aesthetically<br />

Vittal Malaya Road, Bangalore; MDB Neopolis Mall, stunning and unique through the versatile use of inspired<br />

Ludhiana; Ambience Mall, Gurgaon and Phoenix Market graphics. We expect 55DSL to become the new aspirational<br />

city, Pune<br />

brand among young Indians.”<br />

26<br />

September-October 2012


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

The brand was launched in India through a mega event spin-off of the popular Diesel brand, 55DSL is now an<br />

at Palladium, Mumbai. The event reflected 55DSL's young, independent apparel company belonging to Only the Brave<br />

street DNA in mind and showcased the best of <strong>International</strong> group (Diesel) with a lively and provocative identity, and a<br />

street culture including various art, dance and music forms. fresh young attitude.<br />

Graffiti artists Jas, Minzo and Guru painted the<br />

parking lot walls at Palladium and made artistic<br />

Under the creative direction of Andrea Rosso, 55DSL<br />

murals, ganpati of the boring white walls. The crowds creates male and female collections for those who feel<br />

were also entertained by performances by B-Boying equally at home in an urban dwelling as a rural scenario.<br />

crew Roc Fresh, Street Rappers Cash Kardz, Ace aka Andrea Rosso tirelessly seeks out new collaborations every<br />

39, Kinga Rhymes and MC Shinobi and Beat boxers day with artists and companies of all genres all around the<br />

Beatbench. world, thus making 55DSL as much about the mind as the<br />

55DSL is the original Italian street wear brand uniting<br />

subcultures around the world, through a shared passion for<br />

creativity and fashion. Created in 1994 as an experimental<br />

body. 55DSL is a solid company settled through 20 directly<br />

owned stores around the world, and select worldwide<br />

distribution from the USA to Europe and Japan.<br />

Dollar Industries Diversifies Into Lifestyle Apparels<br />

This festive season, Indian apparel market is set to The Denims range comprises of Regular fit, Straight<br />

witness yet another fashion revolution as leading hosiery fit, Skinny fit, Absolute Skinny fit and Slim fit. While<br />

brand Dollar Industries launched its men’s lifestyle apparel various styles of T-Shirts and Gym-Vests are also there. All<br />

segment with its much awaited brand “FORCE”, which is of these products are not only stylish but pocket friendly<br />

strategically called “Go Wear”. FORCE range consists of<br />

fashionable Jeans, T-Shirts, Bermudas, Gym Vests, Boxer<br />

Shorts and Track Pants.<br />

too, as the price range starts from Rs 899/- to Rs 1499/- for<br />

Denims and Rs 120/- onwards for other products. FORCE<br />

initially witnessed a soft launch only in Eastern India but<br />

“The company’s endeavour is to provide branded<br />

apparels at reasonable cost to meet the needs of Indian<br />

consumers. A complete range of lifestyle wear which<br />

now the company will launch the entire range nationally.<br />

The products will be available in general retail markets,<br />

specially, MBOs(Multi Brand Outlet).<br />

consists of Denims, Tees, Gym-Vest, Track Pants, Bermuda<br />

and Boxer Shorts, FORCE will surely sway the latest<br />

fashion industry. The whole range is designed keeping in<br />

mind both the comfort level and style factor of today’s<br />

youngsters. We have an aggressive marketing and<br />

advertising strategy in place to promote the brand”, said<br />

Mr. Vinod Kumar Gupta, Managing Director, Dollar<br />

Industries Ltd.<br />

“Casual wears has become second skin for today’s<br />

generation. A sample research has shown that the target<br />

consumers for FORCE mainly consist of young,<br />

independent and ambitious men. Banking on the needs of<br />

these aspiring consumers, we decided to venture into<br />

lifestyle apparels. It has a vast scope and the market is<br />

growing”, added Mr Gupta.<br />

Successful Production Of Levafix Blue CA<br />

Lonsen Kiri Chemical Industries Ltd. (Lonsen Kiri), conditions. The Levafix CA range is DyStar's high-end<br />

a joint venture between LongSheng Group, China and Kiri reactive range for dyeing and printing of cotton and other<br />

Industries, India, successfully produced the first bulk cellulosic textiles. The Levafix CA is designed to deliver<br />

quantities of Levafix Blue CA, a fluoro-triazine (TFT) excellent fastness performance and optimal dyeing<br />

based reactive dye, at their site in Gujarat, India. The behavior with high fixation levels. Levafix Blue CA is a key<br />

production and quality control was carried out with<br />

DyStar's supervision.<br />

element in that range. Many Levafix CA products are used<br />

to color garments of trendsetting Brands & Retailers.<br />

The production of Levafix Blue CA is an important<br />

"This achievement concludes a long process of plant<br />

and product know-how transfer. Furthermore, I am proud of<br />

milestone in establishing the manufacturing site of Levafix<br />

the Shareholders’ and the DyStar team’s commitment to<br />

CA dyes in India. The Levafix CA dyes require complex, excellence demonstrated by this project” states Harry<br />

multi-step synthesis under high safety standards and Dobrowolski, CEO of the DyStar Group.<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

27


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

Clariant Makes Sustainability Measurable For Textile Mills And Brands<br />

• A systematic methodology based on sophisticated<br />

tools<br />

systematic methodology based on a three-step process.<br />

• Products pre-tested against the industry's most Step 1: Product selection based on eco-standards<br />

stringent standards and compiled in a unique database requirements<br />

for instant information<br />

• Sophisticated calculation tool for informed decision on Customers will benefit from a wide range of Clariant<br />

products and processes, and their ecological impact ONE WAY products, developed and pre-tested by the<br />

company against more than 15 of the industry’s most<br />

stringent environmental and consumer safety standards<br />

The Swiss specialty chemicals group Clariant including Blue Sign®1,OekoTex®2, GOTS3, the 11<br />

announced the introduction of a new service called ONE substances of the Joint Roadmap towards Zero Discharge of<br />

WAY that helps textile mills, brands and retailers measure<br />

the impact of their textile solutions on the environment,<br />

Hazardous Chemicals, bioelimination and 20 major<br />

Restricted Substances List (RSLs).<br />

resource and climate.<br />

Today, the Clariant ONE WAY product database<br />

Clariant believes that it can help its customers to<br />

develop textile solutions that are both more ecologically<br />

and economically sustainable by providing a fast,<br />

measurable and reliable approach to the selection of<br />

chemical products and process solutions.<br />

already includes more than 200 products, covering most of<br />

the needs of the industry across the value chain. This<br />

database will be accessible anytime, anywhere, by the 20-<br />

strong ONE WAY specialist team, who will be located<br />

around the world and comprise of product stewardship<br />

experts.<br />

Taking on the textile industry’s toughest challenges<br />

Step 2: Process short-listing based on<br />

According to Textile Exchange*, an estimated six<br />

environmental focus<br />

million tons of textile chemicals is used each year, making<br />

the environmental impact of textile processing a global<br />

With Clariant’s ONE WAY, dyes and chemicals have<br />

been screened and clustered into groups based on their<br />

issue. Textile waste occupies nearly five per cent of all environmental focus. This will allow textile manufacturers<br />

landfill space, with one million tons of textiles ending up in to narrow their selection of potential products to the process<br />

landfills every year. group that best fits their environmental focus, whether this<br />

is Co2 emissions, savings in water or energy or the amount<br />

In addition, 20 percent of industrial fresh water pollution of waste water generated.<br />

comes from textile treatment and dyeing; and one trillion<br />

Step 3: Solution selection based on cost & eco-benefits<br />

kilowatt hours are used every year by the global textile<br />

calculations<br />

industry, which equates to 10 percent of global carbon<br />

impact.<br />

A sophisticated calculation software tool, which will be<br />

With increasing consumer awareness of these issues,<br />

brands and retailers today are under growing pressure to set<br />

the cornerstone of the ONE WAY toolbox, is currently in<br />

final testing phase and will be available by January 2013.<br />

and enforce sustainability policies, as well as monitor and This calculation tool will allow customers to make an<br />

measure the environmental impact of their textile dyeing informed decision by delivering the overall cost and<br />

and finishing processes,” said Emrah Esder, Head of performance profile – including dyes, chemicals, water,<br />

Marketing, Textile Chemicals, Clariant.<br />

energy and time – and the impact of each textile solution<br />

against key ecological performance indicators, such as<br />

“However, a long-time headache has been the chemical oxygen demand, biological oxygen demand, CO2<br />

difficulty of measuring the overall ecological impact of any emissions, energy and water.<br />

textile process. Clariant’s ONE WAY will address this gap<br />

by providing fast and reliable information on the<br />

economical and ecological impact of each textile solution.”<br />

As a leading supplier of chemical solutions for the<br />

textile industry, Clariant has a long-term commitment to<br />

developing products and application processes that are safer<br />

Systematic approach and stringent standards towards for the consumer, and have less impact on the environment.<br />

industry leadership<br />

Clariant’s ONE WAY will offer mills, brands and retailers a<br />

28<br />

In May 2012, it joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition<br />

(SAC). Clariant is also a member of the Textile Exchange<br />

and is a System Partner of bluesign®.<br />

September-October 2012


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

Euratex Strongly Disappointed with Pakistan’s Waiver Approval<br />

Regretably and in spite of all the economic and factual The Waiver to Pakistan will give an extra competitive bonus<br />

arguments provided by the EU Textile and Clothing to one of our major competitors that is already benefiting<br />

Industry against the Pakistan Waiver the European from strong financial support from its Government”.<br />

Parliament has decided to approve the Waiver.<br />

Commenting on the Waiver’s approval EURATEX Even if some measures were foreseen with the<br />

President, Mr. Alberto Paccanelli, said “We are profoundly intention of limiting the negative impact on EU T&C<br />

disappointed by the way EU policy makers have decided to Industry- e.g. safeguard clauses – in Euratex opinion these<br />

use trade as a political instrument totally disregarding the will not be sufficient to counterbalance the negative impact<br />

economic interests of EU Textile and Clothing Industry, its of this concession for EU companies. As Mr. Paccanelli<br />

companies and workers”. stresses “Decision makers are sending a very negative<br />

message to EU Textile and Clothing Industrialists- even<br />

Even if evidence provided by Euratex clearly shows with a crisis situation in Europe we decide to assist your<br />

that (a) the concessions will not benefit the populations competitors in Pakistan by giving them unilateral duty free<br />

affected by the 2010 floods, (b) the measures will boost the access to the EU market. It is extremely difficult with such<br />

already strong competitive and financial capacity of unexpected and drastic changes in the competitive<br />

Pakistani Exporters, (c) the waiver will grant Pakistan an environment to continue to invest and create jobs in<br />

extra leverage in the EU market in detriment of EU Industry Europe.”<br />

but also of other third country competitors, the concessions<br />

were nevertheless approved. In this context Mr. Paccanelli EURATEX hopes that this will be a one-time decision<br />

recalls “Textile and Clothing companies are currently and that in future we will not have more examples of trade<br />

facing a very challenging <strong>business</strong> environment with an being used to pursue political or other interests with the EU<br />

economic crisis in the EU that has a very negative impact on Industry having to endure the heavy economic and social<br />

consumption with a reduction in orders between 6%-7% impact of such measures.<br />

compared to the same period of last year and a financial<br />

crisis that has imposed strong constraints on companies to Euratex accounts for € 179 billion Turnover, 1,834<br />

access credit particularly in Southern European countries. million workers and 146.000 companies<br />

Cutting Through Eco-confusion:<br />

World's First Global Organic Cotton Campaign Launches At<br />

Hong Kong Textiles Conference<br />

Major players in the international textiles industry are But some brands are failing to commit to organic<br />

today challenged to sign up to organic – the most reliable standards, opting instead for easier, lower-level schemes or<br />

and trustworthy standard of sustainable textiles production. worse – nothing at all. Without commitment from brands, it<br />

is the farmers and the environment that bear the social,<br />

Speaking at the Sustainable Textiles Conference in environmental and economic risks associated with cotton<br />

Hong Kong, Lord Peter Melchett – Policy Director of the production:<br />

UK's Soil Association – asked textile industry leaders:<br />

“Have you cottoned on yet?” “Organic cotton is proven to deliver positive benefits<br />

for people and the environment. When it comes to<br />

Echoing the slogan of the campaign and website making sustainability claims you can trust, nothing<br />

launched today (www.cottonedon.org), Lord Melchett beats it.” Lord Peter Melchett, Policy Director, Soil<br />

called on the industry to put a halt to the global Association<br />

environmental damage and threats to cotton farmers'<br />

livelihoods caused by conventional cotton farming and The campaign is launched by the Soil Association and<br />

processing. the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the leading<br />

standard for organic textile processing.<br />

Up to 80% of world cotton production currently comes<br />

from Genetically Modified (GM) crops (with 95% of the The campaign asks brands as well as consumers and<br />

seed in India controlled by one company: Monsanto). In NGOs to “cotton on” to organic cotton production and<br />

addition, more than U.S. $3 billion worth of pesticides that processing, by signing up on the new micro-site<br />

can cause a variety of risks to humans and the environment www.cottonedon.org, uniting supporters of sustainable<br />

were used on conventional cotton in 2010. cotton across the globe.<br />

At the same time, worldwide demand for organic cotton The campaign is detailed in a briefing paper released<br />

is set to grow by at least 10% in 2011-2012. “Have You Cottoned On Yet?”, which spells out the 5<br />

unique benefits of organic production<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

29


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

Raymond Targets European Markets<br />

After achieving remarkable success in the domestic operates six textile plants and four garment factories across<br />

market, Raymond is now focusing on the EU market. It India and Europe employing over 33,000 people. Raymond<br />

wants to increase its presence in the Europe particularly<br />

Germany over the next two seasons. Currently, Raymond<br />

operates around 650 stores in more than 200 cities in India.<br />

manufactures 800,000 tailored jackets and 2 million<br />

trousers, as well as 3 million pairs of jeans per year.<br />

<strong>International</strong>ly, it has a presence with 39 stores across the<br />

Middle East, Saudi Arabia, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh,<br />

spanning a retail area of over 1 million sq. ft.<br />

Mishra feels, it is easy to get the customer when the<br />

product is offered at just a little lesser cost than others.<br />

However, he feels selling products to foreign clients is a<br />

Raymond offers collections based on the 'whole life<br />

concept' with each of its range relating to different age<br />

groups and price brackets. With this, the brand has been<br />

successful in retaining its customer base throughout the<br />

lifetime. Mukesh Mishra, Business Head at Raymond<br />

Europe says the growth that has happened in India over the<br />

tough task as it takes time to educate them that just because a<br />

product is Made in India does not mean quality is<br />

compromised. However, Raymond's overall export sales<br />

have grown by 18-20 per cent. Raymond believes that not<br />

adding costs on top of costs has helped the brand in<br />

achieving this success.<br />

past 10 years is continuing at the same pace, particularly in<br />

Tier II, III and IV cities.<br />

Each season, Raymond brings out its products in<br />

new fabric qualities showcasing brand's diverse<br />

Being the world's largest worsted wool fabric capabilities. For spring/ summer 2013 the designers<br />

manufacturer, Raymond produces 42 million metres of foregrounded wool/linen and wool/cotton, as well as<br />

fabric annually. Also, it produces over 80 million metres of wool/mohair. For the classic collection the texture is soft,<br />

denim and 10.5 million metres of shirtings. The brand with clear cut finishing showing off a little shine.<br />

DYFI: Ready To Launch A Women's Denim Line<br />

DYFI the jeans wear brand from ShriLaksmiCotsyn, a part DYFI's product portfolio for men include jeans,<br />

of Shri Lakshmi Group that was introduced after a test casual shirts, tees, shorts, pants, cargos, pullovers, jackets<br />

launch in Autumn/Winter 2010 is already giving stiff and accessories like belts, caps in the price range Rs 399 to<br />

competition to leading denim brands. And now, after Rs 1,799. The brand is aimed at the youth aged 12- 40 years.<br />

completing a successful year with its men's line DYFI is “We did not want to sell just garments; we wanted to sell<br />

getting ready with it women's line to be launched in attitude along with the garment and hence wanted to<br />

Spring/Summer 2013. Also on the agenda is a special line promote fitness lifestyle,” opines Gupta. “Our main focus is<br />

for men. Sanjay Gupta, President, DYFI says the brand's on Tier II, III cities only through distributors and franchisee.<br />

positioning is “Let fitness be your lifestyle, that is, one Initially, the focus is to consolidate networking in north<br />

needs to be fit to wear our garments. Hence, the name: Do India.”<br />

You Fit In,” E-retailing too would be pursued aggressively<br />

and is expected to contribute 40 per cent to the total sales.<br />

Shri Lakshmi Group started its journey with<br />

manufacturing of shirting and suiting and gradually<br />

The brand DYFI kicked off its retail journey with the broadened its product basket to include an entire gamut of<br />

opening of its first exclusive store in Delhi. And within a textiles. The list comprises of denim fabric, home<br />

short span it has launched six more stores in North India. furnishing (under domestic brand – Weaves), garments,<br />

Commenting on the brand's retail drive, Gupta says, “In the quilted fabric, embroidery fabric, fusible interlining fabric<br />

first year, we intend opening 12 EBOs and by the end of under the brand name Star Track, technical textile fabric,<br />

fourth year, we would have 60 EBOs. We are also targeting bullet proof jackets, high altitude fabrics, zippers, ballistic<br />

1,500 MBOs and four LFS by the end of second year.” The products and armoured vehicles. ShriLaksmiCotsyn that<br />

EBOs are franchise owned and serviced through launched the DYFI brand has commissioned state-of-thedistributors.<br />

“Every distributor has target to open and art garment factory at Roorkee with an installed capacity of<br />

operate three EBOs to sustain their <strong>business</strong> since we plan 6.6 million pieces per annum. Gupta sums up by saying<br />

to have 25 distributors, we expect 60 EBOs can be achieved “This is our first year in market we have targeted a turnover<br />

much before the targeted time.” of Rs 20 crores and billing value and Rs 40 crores at MRP.”<br />

30<br />

September-October 2012


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

Bombay Dyeing, best known for its bed and bath While textiles contribute 23 per cent to Bombay's<br />

range is currently undergoing a restructuring process, Dyeing total revenues (Rs 2,234.49 crores), the current<br />

which would not only give it a new identity but also expand economic slump in the textile industry may have driven the<br />

its existing product portfolio. By early next year, the company to explore related avenues in its bed and bath<br />

company is looking at re-launching its textile brand as a categories like furniture and home accessories, which could<br />

home solutions provider by exploring segments beyond<br />

bed and bath products.<br />

also complement its profit making real estate <strong>business</strong>.<br />

Apart from creating a different brand identity for its<br />

After incurring losses worth Rs 3.66 crores last<br />

quarter, the company is restructuring to convert the textile<br />

assets into retail ones, ultimately to cater to the different<br />

consumer segments. The company expects to break even<br />

this year by offering better product differentiation and<br />

marketing.<br />

new range, it is also in the process of refurbishing its 300<br />

odd franchise shops. The company introduced its textile<br />

brand by setting up its first franchise operated store in<br />

Jeddah in Saudi Arabia recently and would launch more<br />

stores in West Asia and the SAARC countries<br />

DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH opens new European<br />

Warehouse in Biebesheim<br />

Investment seen as important signal for Germany as a location for Business<br />

Eric Hopmann, Managing Director of DyStar Colours<br />

Distribution GmbH (right) and Gerald Floss, 4PL Central<br />

Station Deutschland GmbH officially open the<br />

new European warehouse in Biebesheim, Germany<br />

locations can be centralized in the new warehouse which<br />

allows us to become more efficient and flexible in our<br />

customer supply process.<br />

We are happy to have found a partner in 4PL Central<br />

Station Deutschland GmbH that will support us in the future<br />

as professional logisticians.“ The chairman of the Lonsheng<br />

Group congratulates the teams of DyStar and 4PL for the<br />

quick and successful implementation of this project.<br />

The attendants of the event could view the modern<br />

equipment on a tour through the warehouse. The 5.000<br />

square meter distribution centre was built within 4 months.<br />

All in all, 3.000 tons of concrete and 180 tons of steel were<br />

used to build the warehouse with a 12 meter high rack<br />

system. In accordance with the special regulations for<br />

textile dyes and chemicals, a containment area for<br />

repacking liquids and equipment to stir liquids when<br />

repacking is available.<br />

With a customer event, DyStar Colours Distribution<br />

GmbH, located in Frankfurt-Hoechst, together with 4PL<br />

Central Station Deutschland GmbH, officially started up<br />

the new European warehouse in Biebesheim. 4PL invested For the DyStar group which is headquartered in<br />

about 2.7 Mio Euro to establish this state-of-the-art Singapore, the German and European textile markets play<br />

distribution warehouse for DyStar, in which the inventory an important role despite the crisis in Europe. As the global<br />

of textile dyes and textile auxiliaries is stored. In 2011 the market leader and dyestuff specialist for the textile and<br />

<strong>business</strong> of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH showed leather industry, DyStar has several manufacturing sites in<br />

double-digit growth and the new warehouse is an additional<br />

Europe -- in Ludwigshafen, Germany, in Portugal and in<br />

milestone to continue the company‘s expansion path.<br />

Turkey.<br />

“This investment is an important strategic step which<br />

Following the motto “Global presence – local support“,<br />

will bring forth considerable improvement in our logistics<br />

“says Eric Hopmann, Managing Director of DyStar<br />

DyStar and its 2.500 employees offer ISO-certified<br />

Colours Distribution GmbH. “Our capacities from three products and extensive services.<br />

The Apparel <strong>Time</strong>s<br />

Bombay Dyeing Is Looking At Re-Launching Its Textile Brand<br />

31


BUSINESS NEWS<br />

With Lectra Fashion PLM, Baroque streamlines development<br />

and communication for Moussy<br />

The Japanese company Baroque will extend Lectra Fashion PLM to other brands<br />

later this year to drive global <strong>business</strong> strategy<br />

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology internal teams and a master product list for merchandising<br />

solutions dedicated to industries using soft<br />

materials—textiles, leather, industrial fabrics, and<br />

and promotion planning.<br />

composite materials—is pleased to announce that the Information was not systematically shared with the<br />

Japanese company Baroque successfully implemented entire Moussy team, which led to lost time through<br />

Lectra Fashion PLM for their top brand, Moussy, in June. unnecessary duplication of tasks.<br />

They will extend implementation to Sly and other Lectra Fashion PLM contributed to a significant and<br />

brands before the end of 2012. Baroque is a leading fast- immediate reduction in documentation and an increase in<br />

fashion brand-retailer for young Japanese women. The visibility of each team member’s work. “With higher<br />

company has experienced continuous growth despite a visibility, we can continue to streamline the way we work<br />

stagnant Japanese apparel market, with revenues reaching for increased agility. For example, instead of preparing<br />

55.1 billion yen (+25% compared to the previous year) and separate documents for merchandisers and marketing, these<br />

an operating income of 7 billion yen.<br />

teams can simply rely on PLM to find the information they<br />

need,” Tanaka continues. This not only reduces workload,<br />

“We chose Lectra after carefully researching over 10 but also pushes information where it is needed, rather than<br />

domestic and international solution providers,” explains requiring people to hunt down details. This was an<br />

Jun Tanaka, Information Technology Department Manager important consideration for Baroque, as one of the<br />

at Baroque. “This is our first time working with Lectra, and company’s strategic goals is to aggressively expand into the<br />

their expertise in apparel-dedicated tools and global Chinese market.<br />

presence were very attractive to us. Design and<br />

implementation were completed quickly, and Lectra In addition to streamlining apparel development and<br />

Fashion PLM went live for Moussy exactly as planned in internal communication in Japan, a synchronized team will<br />

June.”<br />

be needed to support future growth in China. Baroque’s<br />

objective is to have 100 shops in China by January 2014, an<br />

increase from the 19 in place as of June this year. “Our<br />

<strong>business</strong> model requires delivery of new items to shops 2 or<br />

3 times per week. In order for us to succeed in China, where<br />

competition is becoming increasingly intense, it is critical<br />

to master information by having an infrastructure that<br />

supports the entire product flow from planning and<br />

development to shop delivery. In order to succeed abroad, it<br />

is important to redefine our process and streamline the flow<br />

of information with a global perspective,” said Isao Sado,<br />

CFO, Baroque.<br />

Prior to investing in a PLM solution, Baroque<br />

conducted an internal audit to identify areas of<br />

improvement. They determined the root cause of their<br />

challenges to be in the early stages of planning and<br />

development, as well as in communication.<br />

As a fast-growing, trend-oriented, fast-fashion<br />

<strong>business</strong> focused on aggressive and rapid expansion,<br />

Baroque deals with a growing number of increasingly<br />

varied items produced in small volumes, under a number of<br />

different brands. Before implementing Lectra Fashion<br />

PLM, Baroque relied on email and spreadsheets to link<br />

32<br />

“In order to succeed in a difficult economy and under<br />

fierce competition, fashion companies must equip<br />

themselves with a strong process and tools that give them<br />

the flexibility to react to continuous market evolutions,”<br />

emphasizes Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO. “We are pleased<br />

that our forty years of expertise in fashion have benefited<br />

Baroque in such a fundamental way.”<br />

“For a successful PLM implementation, it is important<br />

to build good communication, both internally and with your<br />

technology partner. During the internal audit period, we<br />

made sure that our entire team was involved and shared the<br />

challenge together. Lectra did the same and we appreciate<br />

their commitment,” Tanaka concluded.<br />

September-October 2012

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