computer aided design of textile structures and ... - Centrum Textil

„LibTex LibTex““
Computer
Aided Textile Design
Dana Křemenáková
Brigita Kolčavová Sirková
Iva Mertová
Technical University of Liberec
Textile Faculty
National research Center TEXTIL
Czech Textile Seminar Greece May 2005

1. Basic
Prediction of geometrical and
mechanical properties of
fibres-yarns
fibres yarns-fabrics fabrics
module
2. Module
design

Applications
� Technical and clothing
textiles
� Optimization of textiles
construction
� Virtual textiles for
e- commerce
� Textiles structure and
properties evaluation and
prediction
1. version is oriented on the grey cotton dobby
fabrics for technical and clothing use.

Textile design
Raw material
cotton
Density
Fineness
Diameter
UHM
UI index irregularity
L50 mean length
Bundle strength Pressley
Bundle strength HVI
Fiber strength
Break elongation
Initial tensile modulus
Friction coefficient
Moisture regain
Yarn
One- two component
yarn
single ply
Fineness
Diameter
Porosity
Twist
Fiber number in cross
section
Hairiness Uster and TUL
CV Uster
Strength
Break elongation
Initial tensile modulus
Spinning technology
Ring, compact, Novaspin,
rotor
Fabric
weave
Sett (warp /weft)
Shortening (warp / weft)
Interlacing angle (warp /weft)
Yarn length in weave repeat (warp
/weft)
Thickness
Areal mass
Areal cover(warp/weft)
Air permeability
Roughness (warp /weft)
Drape coefficient
Creasing resistance (warp /weft)
Strength (warp/weft)
Break elongation (warp / weft)
Initial tensile modulus (warp /weft)
Bending stiffness modulus (wa /we)
Shear stiffness modulus

Fiber – yarn
prediction
� Yarn packing density
� Yarn diameter
� Yarn hairiness
� Yarn unevenness
� Yarn tenacity and elongation
� Prediction for these technologies:
ring ring combed and carded
compact compact combed and carded
rotor rotor
new new pilot pilot plant plant –
Novaspin Novaspin combed and carded

⎡ ⎛ µ ⎞
⎢1−
⎜
⎟
⎢⎣
⎝ µ m ⎠
Yarn packing density µ [-]
T [tex] – yarn fineness, Z [m-1 ] – yarn twist, ρ [kgm-3 ]–
fiber density, M [m] - parameter of material and
technology, 5 µ m [-] =0,8 i.e. limit packing density
2
⎛ µ ⎞
⎜
⎟
⎝ µ m ⎠
3
⎤
⎥
⎥⎦
3
M
= 5
2000µ
m
[ m]
2
ρ
packing density [-]
π
[ ] −3
kgm
0,62
0,60
0,58
0,56
0,54
0,52
0,50
0,48
0,46
0,44
0,42
0,40
0,38
⋅
⎛
⎜Z
⎝
[ ] [ ] 2
1 4
−1
m T tex
⎞
3 8 13 18 23 28 33
yarn fineness [tex]
⎟
⎠
combed ring
carded ring
rotor
Neckář [2]
combed Novaspin
carded Novaspin
combed compact
carded compact

ing
Novaspin
Yarn diameter D [mm]
T [tex] – yarn fineness, µ- packing density,
ρ [kgm -3 ] – fiber density
rotor
D =
4T
yarn diameter [mm]
0,26
0,24
0,22
0,20
0,18
0,16
0,14
0,12
0,10
0,08
πµρ
3 13 23 33
yarn fineness [tex]
combed ring
carded ring
rotor
combed Novaspin
carded Novaspin
combed compact
carded compact

elative error [%]
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
-5
-10
packing density [1]
Relative error of prediction x
95% confidence interval
of mean value
0,4
0,35
0,3
0,25
0,2
0,15
0,1
0,05
0
0,01 0,04 0,07 0,1 0,13 0,16 0,19 0,22 0,25 0,28
95% conf. int. lower limit 95% conf. int. upper limit
combed and carded ring rotor
combed and carded Novaspin combed compact
7,23-28,46 tex
D/2
Radial
packing
density
yarn radiusr [mm]
9,43-29,42 tex
19,43-29,48 tex
7,35-20,05 tex
relative error [%]
15
12
9
6
3
0
-3
-6
-9
-12
-15
Experiment
95% conf. int. lower limit 95% conf. int. upper limit
combed and carded ring rotor
combed and carded Novaspin combed compact
7,23-28,46 tex
9,43-29,42 tex
7,35-20,05 tex
19,43-29,48 tex

100% cotton – ring yarn
Yarn diameter – 50% hairiness function
Hairiness function – integral under hairiness
function in the interval (d/2; 3*d)
R1 R2
7,4 tex
10 tex
16,5 tex
20 tex
38 tex

100% cotton Hairiness Uster
hairiness
8
7
6
5
4
3
compact 50% rotor 50% ring 50%
2
10 15 20 25 30 35
yarn fineness [tex]

Fiber Distribution and
Corresponding Yarn Simulation –
influence of fineness

Fiber Distribution
for Three Spinning Technologies
and Corresponding Yarn Simulation
Yarn- 20 tex

utilization
Utilization of fiber in bundle
fiber tenacity/bundle tenacity
φ
vs
=
⎛ 1 ⎞
⎜ ⎟
⎝ u ⎠
= u
exp
u
( − u)
/ Γ(
1+
u)
= u exp(
− u)
/ Γ(
1+
u)
u=0,909
v
δ y
variation coefficient

fineness [tex]
Fiber fineness x different principle
micronaire x vibroscope
0,26
0,24
0,22
0,2
0,18
0,16
0,14
0,12
0,1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
number of cotton type
AFIS
HVI
Vibroscope

Fiber tenacity x bundle tenacity
different principle and gauge length
tenacity [N/tex]
0,70
0,60
0,50
0,40
0,30
0,20
0,10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 101112131415
number of cotton type
fiber vibroskop
bundle HVI
bundle Pressley
bundle stelometr
HVI Uster

Bundle strength – Pressley (tensile impact
strength), HVI
Fiber strength – vibroscope
bundle strength [N/tex]
0,8
0,7
0,6
0,5
0,4
0,3
0,2
0,1
0
HVI
Pressley
prediction based on the vibroscope
Li á í (HVI)
y = 1,8944x + 0,0396
R 2 = 0,8572
y = 0,8722x + 0,1229
R 2 = 0,7622
y = 0,6763x + 0,0257
R 2 = 0,9622
0,15 0,17 0,19 0,21 0,23 0,25 0,27 0,29 0,31 0,33 0,35
fiber strength vibroscope [N/tex]

Yarn tenacity σ p [N/tex]
σ v –fiber tenacity,σ s – bundle tenacity, φ vs –
utilization of fibers in bundle, φ sp - utilization of fiber
bundle in yarn, φ vp utilization of fibers in yarn
utilization [-]
0,9
0,8
0,7
0,6
0,5
0,4
0,3
0,2
0,1
0
σ = σ φ = σ φ =
p
v
vp
s
sp
δ
0 50 100 150 200
Pan [4]
Neckář [2]
Solověv [2]
twist coef. m -1 ktex 1/2
v
φ
vs
φ
sp
bundle- yarn Pan
bundle-yarn Neckář
bundle-yarn Solověv
exp. - ring yarn
exp. - rotor yarn
exp. - Novaspin
exp. - compact yarn
fiber-yarn Pan
fiber-yarn Neckář
fiber-yarn Solověv

Yarn tenacity σ p [N/tex]
σ HVI fiber bundle tenacity (HVI),
µ packing density,
∗ =
σ = σ φ σ µ n
c HVI sp HVI β
utilization of fibre bundle in yarn [-
0,53
0,51
0,49
0,47
0,45
0,43
0,41
0,39
0,37
0,35
0,33
n
∗
β
orientation factor
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35
yarn fineness [tex]
∗
combed ring
carded ring
rotor
yarn tenacity [cN/tex]
35
30
25
20
15
10
combed Novaspin
carded Novaspin
combed compact
carded compact
5
0 10 20 30 40
yarn fineness [tex]
u tiliz a tio n o f fib e r b u n d le in y a rn [- ]
1
0,9
0,8
0,7
0,6
0,5
0,4
0,3
0,2
0,1
0
V f
µ
combed ring - finer
counts
combed ring - corser
counts
carded ring
compact
rotor
50% Uster statistics
0 50 100 150 200

elative error [%]
Relative error of prediction x
95% confidence interval
of mean value
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
-10
-20
-30
7,23-28,46 tex
95% conf. int. lower limit
95% conf. int. upper limit
combed and carded ring (12)
rotor (12)
combed and carded Novaspin (12)
combed compact (12)
b d d d d i (9)
19,43-29,48 tex
9,43-29,42 tex
7,35-20,05 tex

tenacity [N/tex]
Blended yarns –
prediction of packing density,
diameter, tenacity
0,55
0,5
0,45
0,4
0,35
0,3
0,25
0,2
0,15
0,1
( πµ ) ∗
D T ρ
∗ = 4 /
Linear mixing
0,0 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4 0,5 0,6 0,7 0,8 0,9 1,0
cotton mass portion [-]
s
relative error [%]
7
2
-8
95% conf 95% conf relative error
-30,00
0,20 0,40 0,60 0,80 1,00
experiment
cotton mass portion [-]
linear mixing - fibers
linear mixing yarn
PETxPan
linear mixing yarn Uster
PES
critical mass portion
fibers
critical mass portion
yarn

Ply yarn appearance simulationdiameter
and twist influence
Diameter 0,18 mm
Twist 750/m
500/m
600/m
750/m
900/m
0,10 mm
0,15 mm
0,18 mm
0,22 mm

Fabric weave
Definition of the weave on the basic of structural interlacing
models. In the fabrics exist only four structural interlacing
models. The number of individual models can assume
behavior of woven fabrics.
Full
interlacing
A1 A2 A3a
A4
Partial
A3b
Double
Full Float

)
3
(
6
1
A )
(
6
1 Z
K
DEFINICE STRUKTURÁLNÍCH MODELŮ
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎦
⎤
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎣
⎡
=
2
4
4
2
2
4
2
2
2
4
2
2
4
4
2
2
4
4
2
2
4
4
2
2
4
42
2
4
4
2
2
4
4
2
2
4
4
2
2
4
2
2
2
4
2
2
4
4
2
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎥
⎦
⎤
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎢
⎣
⎡
=
2
4
4
4
4
2
1
4
4
4
4
2
1
2
4
4
4
2
1
2
4
4
4
2
1
42
4
4
4
2
1
2
4
4
4
2
1
2
4
4
4
4
1
2
4
4
4
4
2
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A

Fabric cross section simulation
Evaluation: 1. Shape of yarn-diameter, 2.shape of binding wave,
3. Individual coordinates of binding weave for next
approximation. Basic weaves – Fourier series, derived weaves –
hyperbolic model
Binding wave definition by using of Fourier series
Plain weave
Twill weave

Mechanical properties
Tenacity [N] - weft direction
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
Fabric strength [N/5cm]
Fabric strength
as function
of warp and weft sett,
yarn tenacity and
weave
experiment
calculation
Lineární (calculation)
Lineární (experiment)
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
0
Plain weave Plain weave
Plain weave
212/167
warp
215/208
warp
weft
215/243
warp
weft
weft
1 2 3 4 5 6
real value 563,64 394,31 568,91 524,49 504,81 616,11
calculated value 539,3 402,26 546,98 506,35 546,98 6,05E+02
y = 107,32x + 160,41
R 2 = 0,9753
y = 122,29x + 113,59
R 2 = 0,9703
Woven fabrics
Plain 88 Plain 130 Plain 170 Plain 218 Plain 230
Fabric
Plain weave fabrics
with different weft
setts
100% cotton
T=29.5tex

Bending rigidity [mNmm2/mm]
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
Fabric bending rigidity
as function of yarn bending rigidity and fabric
weave
experiment - warp
calculation - warp
experiment - weft
calculation - weft
Plain 16 Plain 20 Plain 24
Fabric
Leaf’s model
Plain weave fabrics with different weft setts, 100% cotton, T=33tex

B[mN/mm/deg]
8
7
6
5
4
3
Shear stiffness
modulus
as function of warp and
weft sett and fabric
weave
K 1/4 Z
A 1/5 (2)
y = -1,1616x + 6,168
Calculation
Fabric
B[mN/mm/deg]
K 1/5 Z
A 1/6 (2)
450
400
350
300
250
200
150
100
K 1/4 Z
A 1/5 (2)
y = -62,5x + 285
y = -1,8269x + 9,1037
R 2 = 0,9577
K 1/6 Z
Experiment
y = -75,75x + 468,33
Fabric
R 2 = 0,9998
K 1/5 Z
A 1/6 (2)
K 1/6 Z
Twill weave fabrics
Sateen weave fabrics
100% cotton
T=10tex

Thickness [mm]
End use
properties
0,7
0,65
0,6
0,55
0,5
0,45
0,4
0,35
0,3
Thickness
Areal mass
Areal mass
190
180
170
160
150
140
130
120
110
0 20 40 60 80
Weft sett [threads/1cm]
K 2/3 K 2/4 K 1/6 K 2/5 A 1/5 (2) A 1/6 (2)
Fabric
Experiment -classical
Calculation
KES - F
Calculation - plain weave
Experiment - plain weave
Calculation - twill weave
Calculation - sateen weave
Experiment - twill weave
Experiment - sateen weave
Fabric thickness
dependence on:
yarn diameter,
waviness,
fabric weave.
When thread’s
interlacing is decreasing
then fabrics thickness is
increasing

Roughness [mikron]
Roughness
Twill and sateen fabrics,
100% cotton, T= 10tex
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
y = -0,2785x + 15,056
R 2 = 0,9769
y = -0,1278x + 9,1829
R 2 = 0,976
10 15 20 25 30
Roughness [mikron]
1,8
1,6
1,4
1,2
0,8
Weft sett [threads/1cm]
2
1
K 2/3 K 2/4 K 1/6 K 2/5 A 1/5 (2) A 1/6 (2)
KES, T=20tex
Calculation, T=20tex
Fabric
KES - F
Calculation
It is function of
structure elements -
four pore types, yarn
unevenness and yarn
diameter
Plain weave fabrics with
different weft setts,
100% cotton

Areal cover
Cover factor [%]
96
94
92
90
88
86
84
Covering (cover factor)
The coefficient of areal covering (cover factor) is the
characterization of the degree of area covered by the threads in the
fabric. A light microscope and system of the image analysis LUCIA G is used
for this measurement.
Experiment
Calculation
Lineární (Experiment)
Lineární (Calculation)
y = 1,2674x + 64,095
R 2 = 0,9927
y = 1,1852x + 64,251
R 2 = 0,9997
82
10 15 20 25 30
Weft sett [threads/1cm]
Plain weave fabrics with
different weft setts,
100% cotton, T=33tex

Fabric air permeability
Calculation R[m/s]
1,2
1
0,8
0,6
0,4
0,2
0
Fabric air permeability as
function of structural
elements, sett of fabrics
and yarn diameter
AP-Ps
AP-PG
y = 0,7263x + 0,1146
R 2 = 0,8258
y = 0,5881x + 0,1887
R 2 AP-PH Plain weave fabrics with
different weft setts,
= 0,8553
100% cotton, T=33tex
y = 0,3832x + 0,2497
R 2 = 0,8605
0 0,2 0,4 0,6 0,8 1 1,2 1,4 1,6
Experiment R[m/s]
When thread’s interlacing is decreasing then fabrics air permeability is increasing
R[m/s]
1,6
1,4
1,2
1
0,8
0,6
0,4
0,2
Experiment
Calculation - model 1
Calculation - model 2
Calculation - model 3
14 16 18 20 22 24
Weft sett [threads/1cm]

Fibers and yarn properties
100 % cotton 20tex x 100 % cotton 29,5tex
fiber fineness
index uneveness 150 fiber length
CV Uster 50% 125 fiber tenacity
100
yarn elongation 75
yarn fineness
50
fiber utility factor
25
0
twist coefficient
yarn tenacity
yarn strength
hairiness Uster 50%
hairiness TUL
yarn twist
fiber number
yarn diameter
packing density
predicted
data
real data

Fabric properties
100 % cotton 20tex x 100 % cotton 29,5tex
Selected properties
The same areal cover
strength of fabric (wa)
length of yarn (we)
length of yarn (wa)
roughness of fabric
strength of fabric (we)
shortening (we)
shortening (wa)
plain weave
200
150
100
50
0
interlacing angle (we)
yarn diameter
limit square sett of fabric
warp sett
weft set t
areal cover of fabric
thickness of fabric
interlacing angle (wa)

2D Fabric visualization
Influence of weave on fabric appearance
Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave
Hopsack Derived from twill weave Derived from satin weave

2D Fabric visualization
Influence of yarn fineness on fabric
appearance
warp: 20 tex
weft: 29 tex
warp: 20 tex
weft: 20 tex
warp: 29 tex
weft: 20 tex

2D Fabric visualization
Influence of surface cover on fabric
appearance
100 % 80 % 60 %
Areal cover of the fabrics for both direction

Thanks for your attention…
attention