Haslemere Traveller 2017

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RHINE & MOSELLE Gemma tours two scenic inland waterways For my first river cruise, in May I travelled on Tauck’s MS Grace, along the scenic northbound Rhine and Moselle inland waterways, for the first five days of a 13-day itinerary, beginning my journey in Basel, Switzerland. For my first full day, a knowledgeable and affable local guide took us on a tour of the city by comfortable coach, followed by a walking tour of the Old Town, including the red-painted city hall, the Rathaus. (A full day in lakeside Lucerne was another option.) The third day was spent in Strasbourg, the crossroads of Europe, where we drove through the beautiful city’s European Union district and admired the modern architecture of the European Parliament buildings. The 11th century Gothic cathedral was fascinating, with its stunning pink facade; Petite-France is one of Strasbourg’s prettiest and most enchanting neighbourhoods. Alsatian folklorists performed before we had dinner back on board. The following day’s highlight was a trip to Baden- Baden and the Black Forest, a favourite spa destination of royal visitors and celebrities, including Queen Victoria, Brahms and Napoleon III; the Casino is the oldest and most traditional in Europe. Shuttles to and from the destinations were available throughout the afternoon, also returning us to the boat for lunch. My final day was spent in the romantic town of Heidelberg, where we took a walking tour of the Old Town Square and visited the ruins of Heidelberger Schloss, Germany’s finest Gothic-Renaissance castle. In the afternoon, the boat set sail for Rüdesheim in the Rhine Valley wine country for a special reception and dinner ashore at Schloss Johannisberg or Burg Schwarzenstein, estates that have been producing wine for more than 1,000 years. River cruises are an excellent way to explore the historic, cultural and culinary traditions that have evolved in these areas of central Europe. I was pleasantly surprised how spacious and well appointed the ship was, with excellent food and service; there was a high staff to guest ratio, with a mix of nationalities on board (US, New Zealand, UK and others). Dress code for dining is resort casual, although flip-flops and shorts are discouraged in the evening. Conveniently, all gratuities, including those for bus drivers, local guides, restaurant and hotel staff, are included in the price of the holiday. On my final day, I was very reluctant to return home and leave my fellow passengers who happily went on to sail down these beautiful rivers for another week… DANUBE TOUR RIVER CRUISES Terry travels along one of Europe’s largest rivers Joining the Eastbound Danube cruise last August in Passau, Bavaria (having missed the first two days in Prague of the week-long trip), I was allocated an extremely comfortable and spacious cabin, which was blissfully quiet, despite the fact it was at the rear of the ship. The two floor-to-ceiling windows afforded amazing views and the cabin stewardess was efficient and friendly, placing full tour details and next day’s events itinerary in my cabin each day. There was a good and interesting range of locations to explore along this majestic river. I undertook excursions to Cesky Krumlov (Czech Republic); Grein, Grafenegg and Gottweig (Austria); Cerveny Kamen Castle (Slovakia); and the Belvedere Palace and Schoenbrunn Palace in Vienna. Nothing was too much trouble for the Tauck team; if anyone wished to visit somewhere independently, such as a church, then they would happily arrange it via a taxi ride – I am unaware of any other company that would arrange this as a complimentary excursion. The tour guides were extremely knowledgeable and the information cards and leaflets packed with useful information on each port of call. Small groups would be taken in opposite directions to avoid overcrowding; and, conveniently, tips were sorted directly by Tauck. Special events, such as a Gala Dinner in an imperial palace with music, or a special luncheon in a heuriger (typical tavern with music) are exclusive to Tauck and prove popular. The coaches were spotless, with plenty of bottled water available if required. But the ship itself was the real star. MS Savor carries a maximum of 130 guests in 67 cabins and suites, located on three decks. The entire top level is a Sun Deck, with a putting green and a plunge pool at the rear, with ample chairs and loungers and shading if required. The palatial landmark Grand Hotel Wein in Vienna where I stayed was centrally located, with easy access to various museums, parks, churches, galleries and shopping, with pavement cafes nearby. Luggage was taken care of from cabin to the hotel room and viceversa if needed. My first – and hopefully not my last – river cruise on one of Tauck’s vessels, was an amazing adventure, which offered plenty of opportunity for immersion in different cultures. There was not one element of this trip that I could fault, from start to finish! 6 TRAVELLER <strong>2017</strong> haslemeretravel.co.uk 01428 658 777
ADVENTURE TRAVELLER CO STA RICA SUSIE FINDS SOME WONDERFUL WILDLIFE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Costa Rica has long been regarded as the “Switzerland of the Americas”, with its peaceful history, lack of armed forces and scenic pasturelands; but it also boasts magnificent wildlife, a rugged Pacific coastline, as well as Caribbean beaches, 800 species of bird, four types of primate, two species of sloth, numerous snakes and insects. A nature lover’s paradise, where the countrywide emphasis on protection has allowed most species to flourish. I visited in June and flew directly with BA to San Jose, staying overnight at the peaceful Hotel Grano de Oro, converted from a tropical Victorian mansion. An early start the next day (with breakfast boxes provided) was followed by a drive along the Pan American highway towards the Caribbean coast to Torteguero and the riverside Pachira Lodges (short flights are also an option). The last leg of our journey was by boat, a great way to start spotting wildlife – we saw caiman, geckos and red dart frogs. “BEWARE - MONKEYS CAN SPRING OUT AT YOU AT ANY MOMENT!” On arrival, we were immediately introduced to more of the celebrated Costa Rican wildlife, as monkeys can spring out at you at any moment! Boat trips along the river gave me the opportunity to spot more animals (such as armadillo, howler and spider monkeys, white-faced capuchins, lizards, turtles and a variety of birds) – I suggest either the 6am or 4pm trips for the best chance to see them active. July and August is the best time to go if you want to see the turtles laying their eggs. An alternative hotel I also recommend was the Evergreen, which has 66 rooms and bungalows, a good pool area and plenty of activities on offer, as well as a canopy tour, kayaks and river guides. After a short flight with amazing views of Torteguero, the river and national park, we arrived back at San Jose and a nearby coffee plantation, before reaching Poas Volcano. One highlight of our stay at Relais & Chateaux property El Silencio in Bajos del Toro (approximately 1.5 hours from San Jose) was a walk to the waterfall; it is set in a 550-acre cloud forest reserve close to Poas Volcano Park. Next on our fascinating trip was Arenal, a very active destination for adrenaline junkies, activities range from hiking up Arenal or zip wiring to Zorbing. I chose to visit the hanging bridges of Mistico. Our first attempt was thwarted by an amazing thunder and lightning show; the guide was very informative about both flora and fauna. The Arenal Springs Hotel is great for families, with three restaurants, some interconnecting rooms and pools heated from the hot springs. I particularly liked the Kioro Hotel, with rooms which have hot tubs and full views of the volcano (pictured below). Following a drive down the Pacific coast – via a stop at Monteverde to see the wonderful sloths (pictured below) – we arrived in the town of Manuel Antonio, with a chance to relax by the sea. But wildlife is still never far away, with an early morning visit to the national park offering us the chance to see more sloths and especially capuchins, who seemed to know when we were due to eat our lunches on the beach and raided our backpacks! Arenas del Mar is a boutique hotel within walking distance of the national park and a good choice for those seeking relaxation. Si Como No hotel has its own conservation programme of rescued alligators and is very popular with couples, as they boast amazing honeymoon suites with stunning views of the ocean. My hotel for two nights, The Parador Resort, is built high over the coastline in 12 acres of tropical rainforest with a resident sloth; another good option for families with four pools and a swim up bar for adults, tennis courts, spa and babysitting. Once again you have to be prepared for wildlife to carry on with their busy lives around you… 01428 658 777 haslemeretravel.co.uk TRAVELLER <strong>2017</strong> 7
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Page 3 and 4: CONTRIBUTORS GEMMA & RAY gemma@hasl
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