Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing - Mesoamerican ...

SAM / MBRS 

PROJECT FOR THE CONSERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE USE 

OF THE MESOAMERICAN BARRIER REEF SYSTEM 

(MBRS) 

Belize – Guatemala – Honduras - Mexico 

Training Manual for 

Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing 

December 2005 

Project Coordinating Unit 

Coastal Resources Multi-Complex Building 

Princess Margaret Drive 

PO Box 93 

Belize City, Belize 

Tel: (501) 223-3895; 223-4561 

Fax: (501) 223-4513 

E-mail: mbrs@btl.net 

Web page: http://www.mbrs.org.bz

Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing 

PROLOGUE 

The constant degradation of marine and coastal ecosystems creates the urgent need to establish 

reserves and marine protected areas which allow the conservation of biodiversity as well as 

improve the living conditions of the human communities which depend directly on them. 

Conservation actions related to the establishment of Marine Protected Areas (MPS’s), habitat 

protection and fishing site closures in the MBRS region have led to socio-economic displacements 

within human communities that are dependent on exploitation of the resources targeted for 

conservation. Such circumstances create additional economic constraints on these communities 

by diminishing the capital resources they have available for investing in sustainable alternative 

forms of livelihood. 

It is precisely for this reason that the MBRS Project promotes both the conservation of marine and 

coastal resources and supports sustainable development in those coastal communities, whose 

main source of income is the harvesting of marine resources. 

In the search for a balance between conservation and economic sustainability, the MBRS subprogram 

for Sustainable Fisheries Management has identified a series of alternatives for 

economic income to help cushion the vulnerable context in which these coastal communities live. 

In particular, these alternatives include guide-tourism related activities such as terrestrial wildlife 

appreciation, snorkeling, SCUBA diving, sport-fishing and canoeing/kayaking. 

For this reason, the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System Project organized and coordinated 

regional training courses to improve the capacity of marine coastal communities and fisheries 

associations in the MBRS region to access these alternatives forms of livelihood through training 

in tour-guiding, business management, and product design, marketing, promotion and 

diversification. During this training, support material was provided based on existing experiences. 

This material was enriched by the input from delegates of the two countries (Mexico and Belize) in 

the MBRS region, which ultimately resulted in the creation of the current document in the form of 

a manual. 

The process involved the participation of local experts who prepared the initial training material, 

conducted the training, collected the input from the participants and developed the final version of 

this manual, incorporating the comments of the Project Coordination Unit (PCU.) 

The training included case studies, formal presentations, field trips, hand-on experience, 

participant presentations, assigned reading and dynamic discussions. 

With this manual, the MBRS Project reaffirms its commitment to generate support material for the 

conservation and sustainable use of marine and coastal resources, with the participation of the 

different sectors of civil society, community-base organizations and non-governmental 

organizations, promoting sustainable alternative forms of livelihood. 

It is our intention that this tool be used in similar training courses and serve as a guide in the 

training of marine tour guides in the various countries of the Mesoamerican region. In so doing, it 

will strengthen the efforts to conserve biological diversity as well as foster community 

development by increasing the economic benefits to coastal communities in the MBRS region. 

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TABLE OF CONTENTS 

PROLOGUE i 

UNIT 1: INTRODUCTION 1 

UNIT 2: TOUR GUIDING RESPONSIBILITIES AND ETHICS 3 

UNIT 3: EQUIPMENT CARE AND MAINTENANCE 4 

3.1 Fishing Tackle Tips 4 

3.2 Care and Maintenance 5 

3.3 Other Fishing Tackle Tips 5 

UNIT 4: REEF FISHING EQUIPMENT 7 

4.1 Personal gear 7 

4.2 General boat gear 7 

4.3 Rod and Reels 7 

4.4 General tackle 10 

4.5 Terminal tackle 10 

UNIT 5: FISHING KNOTS 12 

5.1 Bowline knot 12 

5.2 Improved clinch knot 13 

5.3 Uni-Knot system 13 

5.4 Trilene knot 18 

5.5 Snell knot 19 

5.6 Jansik knot 20 

5.7 Palmar knot 21 

5.8 Improved blood knot 22 

5.9 Offshore Swivel knot 22 

UNIT 6: SPIN FISHING EQUIPMENT 24 

6.1 Personal gear 24 



6.4 Terminal tackle 25 


6.6 Saltwater flies 26 

UNIT 7: FLY FISHING EQUIPMENT 31 

7.1 Personal gear and clothing 31 




7.5 Selecting Rod, Reels and flies 33 

7.6 Permit and bonefish flies 35 

7.7 Tarpon flies 40 

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UNIT 8: FLY FISHING KNOTS 43 

8.1 Arbor knot 45 

8.2 Surgeon knot loop 45 

8.3 Double nail knot loop 49 

8.4 Albright special knot 51 

8.5 Homer Rhode loop knot 52 

UNIT 9: SPORT FISH OF THE MBRS 56 

9.1 Game fishes 56 

9.2 Pelagic fishes 58 

9.3 Groupers 61 

9.4 Jacks 63 

9.5 Snappers 66 

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UNIT 1. INTRODUCTION 

COURSE GOALS AND GENERAL OBJECTIVES 

The Mesoamerican Reef Barrier System (MBRS), which extends from Isla Contoy on the north of 

the Yucatán Peninsula to the Bay islands of Honduras, is recognized, in the Western Hemisphere 

for its uniqueness due to its length, diversity of reef types and associated species. The MBRS is 

also an invaluable resource for its socioeconomic important to the adjacent local communities. 

Within the MBRS, over 60 areas have been declared Marine Protected Areas (MPA) with different 

management regimes. 

Many of the conservation actions related to the establishment of Marine Protected Areas, habitat 

protection and the closure of fishing sites, generally lead to socio-economic displacements that 

affect the human communities that depend on the very resources they want to conserve. 

It is precisely for this reason that the MBRS Project promotes both the conservation of marine 

and coastal resources and supports sustainable development in those coastal communities, 

whose main source of income is the harvesting of marine resources. In attempting to balance 

both actions, a series of alternatives sources of income have been identified to mitigate the 

vulnerable situation in which coastal communities live. Such vulnerability is having an impact on 

the available capital, the ability to further generate or utilize such capital and consequently, on the 

options for feasible livelihoods. 

The present course is framed within the goal of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System Project to 

enhance the protection of the unique and vulnerable marine ecosystems comprising the MBRS. 

The general objective is to promote measures which will serve to reduce non-sustainable patterns 

of economic exploitation of the MBRS, focusing initially on the fisheries and tourism sectors; 

. 

THE SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES WILL BE THE FOLLOWING: 

1. To outline, analyze, contrast and compare different successful methodologies used in training 

that relate to sustainable livelihoods throughout the region in order to extract learning experiences 

for application and identify successful training programs. 

2. To design and prepare training package for the tourism-related courses including: Nature 

guiding, snorkeling, recreational diving, sportfishing, canoeing, business management, marketing 

and promotion. 

3. To train a minimum of twenty representatives of the four countries in the MBRS region taking 

into account the need for such representatives to begin these activities as alternative sources of 

income. 

4. To take responsibility for receiving the equipment, its care, its maintenance, collecting the 

symbolic rent and administering the funds generated by such rent. 

1


COURSE STRUCTURE, METHODS AND LANGUAGE 

The course was delivered in a workshop format with interaction opportunities for the participants. 

Most of the information presented by the facilitator was enriched with the participant’s 

experiences. 

Since the course emphasized practical specialized training, and special attention was paid to the 

need of training methods for adult education and communication skills for fishers, the methods 

used demonstrated suggested strategies such as role playing, hand-on experience, small group 

discussions and the participants were required to use them in their exercises. Over all, the 

participants were exposed to: 1) slide presentations, 2) group discussions, 3) small group 

exercises, 4) lectures and 5) participants’ presentations. 

Given the social nature of the MBRS region, the course was conducted in English and Spanish. 

2


UNIT 2: TOUR GUIDING RESPONSIBILITIES AND ETHICS 

As a guide, you are responsible for many things. It’s no easy task- there are many things you will 

need to deal with all at once. Some of your most important responsibilities are to: 

• Insure the safety of your guests at all times 

• Provide a professional level of service and be courteous and friendly 

• Provide quality and accurate information 

• Provide an opportunity to learn about the cultures, history, and environment of Belize in an 

informative, educational, and meaningful way 

• Serve as a role model on how to conserve the natural resources and behave in the 

cultures of Belize 

• Deliver all activities in a timely and professional manner 

• Work cooperatively with other parts of the tourism industry 

As a tour guide, it is your job to be professional and provide a quality service to your guests. Part 

of doing this is maintaining a high ethical standard. One of the best ways to do this is to always 

be honest with your guests. It’s better to tell them you don’t know the answer to a question then 

to make one up and have them find out you lied. It’s also important to tell guests accurate 

information about what the trip will be like, how long it will take, and what kind of conditions they 

will find along the way. 

Some tourism related businesses give commissions to tour guides that bring their guests to their 

gift shops, restaurants, or other facilities. It is unethical to force going to these places on your 

guests. They should only go where they want to go and to scheduled places on the trip. It is also 

unethical to tell guests it is your birthday, ask them to help you with family expenses, or put up 

signs saying tips are expected in order to get tips. Guests do not have to tip you and you should 

not expect to be tipped. You also should not “steal” guests from other tour guides, tour operators, 

or tour suppliers. If you offer deals on the side or for a better rate, you cause problems of trust 

throughout the tourism industry. It’s very important that you do not drink, use drugs, or get 

romantically involved with your guests. 

Your guests will look to you to know how to behave during the tour. If they see you picking up 

wildlife and touching coral even though you are not supposed to, they will do it too. This will 

destroy our natural resources- the very ones we depend on for our income as tour guides. So, 

you should be a model of conservation. To do this successfully, you must first gain your guests 

interest and attention in the environment of Belize. You should reinforce conservation messages 

through briefing that describe what behaviors are expected of the guests before they begin an 

activity. Being a model of conservation also means correcting a guest if they are doing something 

that is damaging in a professional manner. You can also “reduce reuse and recycle” in your daily 

activities through using washable plates and use local food suppliers and local businesses to fill 

your needs. You should convey a message of ecotourism to your guests by having guidelines 

that prevent negative environmental and cultural impacts and that support the local economy 

directly. 

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UNIT 3: EQUIPMENT CARE AND MAINTAINANCE 

FISHING TACKLE TIPS 

Maintenance of your fishing reel, rod and line can help extend the life of your fishing equipment 

and make for a smooth day fishing to haul in that "reel" big fish. Tips compliments of Ande 

Monofilament. 

Sure Your Fishing Reel Is Working Smoothly 

The drag system is extremely important in fighting fish of any size. It is a complicated 

mechanism that should be serviced at least once a year. When a reel is not being used, the 

drag should be backed off. When fishing, the drag setting (at the strike position) should be 25% 

of the line's breaking strength. For example, an outfit spooled with 20 pound test line would 

have a strike drag set at five pounds. Obviously, this setting can be increased once the fish is 

hooked, but should never exceed 50% of the line's breaking strength. Many fish are lost and 

lines "popped", due to too much drag. Furthermore, line often gets caught inside the spool on 

conventional reels. To compensate for this, occasionally check the unit's screws for tightness. 

However, should the problem occur, strip off the frayed line and retie. 

After saltwater use, rinse rod, reel and lures with a mild mist of freshwater. Do not use a high 

pressure spray on reels. It will only force the salt into crevices. After the reels have dried, spray 

them with a light lubricant, such as CRC-6-56, making certain to avoid the line. Remember a 

drag should always be smooth, not jerky. As a fish takes line, the rod should not bounce up and 

down but stay steady and solid. 

Protecting Your Fishing Line 

Considering the expectations of monofilament fishing line, and the abuse it's subject to, it is 

amazing what this "thin" material will do. But, to get the most out of any monofilament, we must 

protect it from certain negative elements. Listed below are a few "mono checks" that, when 

followed properly, will put more fish on the table. We will start with the reel and work towards the 

hook. 

Putting Monofilament Line on Your Fishing Reel 

Most tackle stores are happy to spool up your reel, particularly those who have a line winding 

machine. If you have the time, and they have the quality line you want, let them do it. 

When you're spooling up a bait casting reel, or any conventional reel, put a rod, or even a 

pencil, through the center of the line spool. Tie the line to the reel with a (Uni-knot or Arbor knot) 

clipping off the tag end. Snug the knot to the reel spool. One person should reel while another 

holds both ends of the rod, applying pressure as the line is reeled onto the spool. Fill to about 

an 1/8 inch from the spool's outer rim. Keep the line away from anything that could cause 

abrasion. 

Use the same procedure with a spinning reel, but reel line so that it comes off the end of the 

spool. After 15 or 20 turns, if a twist occurs, turn the spool over and continue to fill the reel. 

Monofilament will twist. If it happens while fishing from a boat, play the line out with nothing on 

the end, trolling behind the boat for about five minutes. It is also important to always use a ballbearing 

swivel, which will reduce or eliminate line twist. Certain lures or bait tied directly to the 

line will invite twist. To compensate for this, try lighter line. Just for your own education and 

4


enjoyment, go down in line test. You will be surprised that you can catch big fish on line much 

lighter than you are presently using. It may take more patience and even a little more skill, but 

you will enjoy it. If fish stop biting, go to a lighter test. The thinner line may get them eating 

again. The thinner the line, the less likely a fish sees it. 

CARE AND MAINTAINANCE 

Care of Fishing Rod Guides 

The guides on your rods must be checked and kept free of any abrasive areas. Pull a strip of 

pantyhose through the rod guides to check for snags, or a cotton tipped swab. Saltwater will 

wreak havoc with roller guides. Inspect them before and after each trip. When trolling, make 

sure the line is not wrapped around a guide. 

Care of Fishing Line 

Always check the line for nicks or frazzles or areas of abrasion that will cause a weakness. After 

every fishing trip, or after playing out a nice fish, cut off approximately ten feet of line and retie, if 

you have reason to believe it may have been frayed. This is very important. 

When fighting a decent fish, in fresh or saltwater, three things can happen: (1) the fish goes 

deep, pulling the line across rocks, logs or other hard objects, (2) the fish is big and the line will 

rub across its body or tail, and (3) other things, such as the boat, a jetty, surface objects or 

dock, or even other fish in the area, may bump into your line. All three factors will cause 

abrasion, eventually prompting the line to break. The easiest solution is to cut off the weak line 

and retie. 

Quality monofilament that has not come in contact with the above items does not need to be 

totally replaced. (We have had saltwater charter boat captains catch over 20 Blue Marlin without 

respooling new Ande monofilament.) So, if you check your reel's drag system, your rod guides 

and cut away line that may be damaged, we guarantee you will catch more fish. Take the 

time...it is worth it. 

Other Fishing Tackle Tips 

Tip: Monofilament can be damaged by excess exposure to direct sunlight. Keep your 

equipment in a dry, shaded area. Fishing on a hot summer day is fine. Keeping your rods in a 

hot car trunk, or exposed to direct sunlight in the back seat, is not recommended. 

Tip: Always use a well balanced outfit. This means the rod, reel, line and lure should be 

made for each other. Do not load a light outfit with a heavy line. Conversely, do not throw a 

huge lure with a light outfit. 

Tip: More rods are broken in car doors, house doors or through poor storage. Do not let rod 

tips bang all over your boat. 

Tip: Always rinse rods with freshwater. Periodically remove reels and lubricate reel seats with 

CRC-6-56. 

Tip: Remember, proper maintenance, balance, storage and handling are imperative in taking 

care of the equipment that takes care of you. 

Tip: Store all bulk line in a cool, dark place. Direct sunlight will damage monofilament over a 

period of time. 

5


Tip: Always store your reels with the drag set at no tension (free spool) or as low as it can go. 

This will prevent flat spots on drag material. You can set the clicker to “On” to prevent the reel 

from turning and line unwinding. 

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UNIT 4: REEF FISHING EQUIPMENT 

PERSONAL GEAR 

Most gear, clothing and miscellaneous tackle you use for other fishing will serve you well in reef 

fishing such as polarized sunglasses, long-brimmed hats, protective footgear and sunblock. 

Other items such as tackle packs, boat bags, rain gear, and fast-drying clothing, while not 

essential, can make life more comfortable and productive. 

GENERAL BOAT GEAR 

For most reef fishing tours a 25 ft fiberglass skiff with a deep draft is required. Your boat should 

be equipped with a Bimini top and comfortable seating. Other items that are essential to have 

on your boat include: 

A 15 lbs Anchor with 100 ft of anchor rope 

Pole 

Live bait well 

Ice Cooler with ice and water 

Caste net 

Rod Holders 

Life vests 

Catch and release gaff 

All Licenses including boat license from port authority, tour guide license, and park license. 

ROD & REELS 

Your boat should be equipped with an assortment of intermediate Rod & Reels. It is 

recommended that you have 8, 12, 16, 20 lbs test line for fishing snappers, barracudas, jacks, 

sailfish and kingfish. 

Bait Casting Reels The best 

quality is its exactness and precision when casting lures. Reel is set on top of the base of the 

rod. It is not for long casts but for short precision casting. 

7


Trolling Reels 

These larger reels with more line capacity are used for trolling/dragging behind the boat. They 

are not good for casting. 

Terminal Tackle: Jigs 

The following list is a recommendation of items that should be included in your tackle box: 

Hooks: An assortment of hooks, size #1,2,3,4. 

Triple hooks 

Lures (assortment of floating) 

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Live Lure 

Floating Lures 

Terminal Tackle: Lures 

9 

Darter Lures 

Trolling Lures


General Tackle 

The following list is a recommendation of items that should be included in your general tackle: 

Tackle box 

Swivels 40-100 lbs test 

Wire leaders 20,40,60 lbs test 

Crimps 

Crimping pliers 

Tape measure 

Knife and file 

Terminal Tackle: Swivels, Leaders, Crimps & Hooks 

10


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UNIT 5: FISHING KNOTS 

Bowline Knot 

This is the best knot for a boatman to know. Memorize this sentence and tying your bowline is 

easy. "The Fox thru the hole, around the tree, and back thru the hole." 

Sure Your Fishing Reel Is Working Smoothly 

12


The Improved Clinch Knot 

The Uni-Knot System 

The Improved Clinch Knot 

1. An old standby for 

fishermen. Pass the line 

through the eye of hook, swivel 

or lure. Double back and 

make 5 turns around the 

standing line. 

Hold the coils in place; thread 

end of line through the first loop 

above the eye, then through 

the big loop as shown. 

2. Hold the tag end and 

standing line while coils are 

pulled up. Take care that coils 

are in spiral, not lapping over 

each other. Slide tight against 

the eye. Clip tag end. 

Uni-Knot --- Joining 2 Lines (of Similar Diameter) 

13 

1. Overlap ends of two lines of about 

the same diameter for about 6". 

Take one end, and form the Uni-Knot 

circle, crossing the two lines about 

midway of the overlapped distance. 

2. Tie the Uni-Knot, making six turns 

around the two lines (leaving the loop 

free). 

3. Pull the tag end to form a snug knot


tight around the line. 

4. Use the loose end of the overlapped 

line to tie another Unit-Knot as shown 

above and pull snug. 

5. Pull the two standing lines in opposite 

directions to slide the knots together. Pull 

as tightly as possible and snip ends close 

to nearest coil. 

Uni-Knot --Joining Shock Leader to Line 

1. When the leader is 5 times or more the pound/test of the line, double ends of both 

the leader and line back about 6". Slip the loop of the line through loop of leader far 

enough to permit tying a Uni-Knot around both strands of leader. 

2. With doubled line, tie Uni-Knot around the two strands of leader. Use only four 

turns. 

14


3. Put finger through loop of line and grasp both tag end and standing line to pull knot 

snug around loop of leader. 

4. With one hand, pull the standing leader (not both strands). With other hand pull 

both strands of line (see arrows). Pull slowly until the knot slides to end of leader loop 

and all slippage is gone. 

Uni-Knot --- Joining Leader to Fishing Line 

15 

Tie on leader of no more than four times 

the pound /test of the line. 

1. Double the end of the line and 

overlap it with the leader for about 6". 

Make a Uni-circle with the doubled line. 

2. Tie the basic Uni-Knot, making three 

turns with the line loop around the two 

lines and the leader line. 

Pull it snug up. 

3. Now tie another Uni-Knot to the left 

side with the leader around the double 

line. Again, use only three turns.


4. Pull the knots together as tightly as 

possible. 

Trim ends and loop. 

Uni-Knot --- Double Line Shock Leader 

1. As a replacement for the Bimini Twist or Spider Hitch, first clip off an amount 

of line needed for length of loop desired. 

Tie the two ends together with an Overhand Knot. 

2. Double end of the standing line and overlap 6" with knotted end of loop 

piece. 

Tie Uni-Knot with tied loop around doubled standing line, making 4 turns. 

3. Now tie Uni-Knot with doubled standing line around loop piece. Again, make 

16


4 turns. 

4. Hold both strands of doubled line in one hand, both strands of loop in other 

hand. Pull knots together until they barely touch. 

5. Tighten by pulling both strands of loop piece, but only the main strand of 

standing line. 

Trim off both loop tag ends, which eliminates the Overhand knot. 

Uni-Knot --- Tying Fishing Line To Terminal Tackle 

17 

1. Run the line through the eye of 

hook, swivel or lure at least 6" and 

fold to make 2 parallel lines. 

Bring the end of line back in a circle 

toward the hook or lure. 

2. Make 6 turns with tag end 

around the double line. 

Pass tag end through the circle. 

Hold the double line at a point where 

it passes through the eye and pull 

the tag end to snug up the turns.


3. Now pull the standing line to 

slide the knot up against the eye. 

4. Continue pulling until the knot is 

tight. Trim tag end flush with closest 

coil of knot. The uni-knot will not 

slip. 

The Trilene Fishing Knot 

The Trilene Knot is a strong reliable connection that resists slippage and premature failures. 

The Trilene Knot is an all-purpose connection to be used in joining monofilament to swivels, 

snaps, hooks and artificial lures. The knot's unique design and ease of tying yield consistently 

strong, dependable connections while retaining 85-90% of the original line strength. The double 

wrap of mono through the eyelet provides a protective cushion for added safety. 

Trilene Knot --- Joining Monofilament to Tackle 

1. Run the end of line through eye of hook 

or lure and double back through the eye a 

second time. 

18 

2. Loop around the standing part of line 5 

or 6 times. 

3. Thread the tag end back between the 

eye and the coils as shown. 

4. Pull up tight and trim the tag end.


The Snell Fishing Knot 

The Snell Knot provides a strong connection when fishing with bait and using a separate length of leader. 

You can only use a Snell Knot with a leader. 

SNELL KNOT 

1. Insert one end of the leader through the hook's eye, 

extending 1 to 2 inches past the eye. 

Insert the other end of the leader through the eye in the 

opposite direction pointing toward the barb of the hook. 

Hold the hook and leader ends between your thumb and 

forefinger of left hand. Leader will hang below the hook in a 

large loop. 

2. Take the part of the large lower loop that is closest to the 

eye and wrap it over the hook shank and both ends of the 

leader toward the hook's barb. 

3. Continue to wrap for 7 or 8 turns and hold wraps with left 

hand. Grip the end of the leader that is through the eyelet 

with your right hand and pull it slowly and steadily. Hold the 

turns with your left hand or the knot will unravel. 

When knot is almost tight, slide it up against the eye of the 

hook. Grip the short end lying along the shank of the hook 

with a pair of pliers. Pull this end and the standing line at 

the same time to completely tighten the knot. 

The Jansik Knot 

The Jansik knot is a strong knot. The Jansik Special Knot is a popular knot with muskie 

fisherman. 

19


The Jansik Knot 

1. Run about five inches of line through the eye of fish hook or 

fishing lure. 

Bring it around in a circle and run it through again. 

2. Make a second circle, parallel with the first and pass the end 

of the line through the fishing hook eye a third time. 

3. Bend the standing part of the line around the two circles. 

Bring tag end around in a third circle and wrap it three times 

around the three parallel lines. 

4. Hold the fish hook, swivel or fishing lure with pliers. 

Hold the standing line with other hand and hold the tag end in 

teeth. Pull all three to tighten. (Arrows identify standing line.) 

The Palomar Knot 

The Palomar Knot is easy to tie correctly, and consistently the strongest knot known to hold 

terminal tackle. 

20


The PALOMAR KNOT - For Joining Line To A Fish Hook 

1. Double about 4" of line and pass the loop through the 

eye of fishing hook. 

2. Let the fishing hook hang loose, and tie an overhand 

knot in the doubled line. 

Avoid twisting the lines and do NOT tighten the knot. 

3. Pull the loop end of the line far enough to pass it over 

the hook, swivel or lure. 

Make sure the loop passes completely over the 

attachment. 

4. Pull both the tag end and the standing line until the 

knot is tightened. Clip off the tag end of the fishing line. 

The Improved Blood Knot 

The Improved Blood Knot is used for tying two pieces of monofilament together of 

relatively equal diameters. 

21


IMPROVED BLOOD KNOT 

1. Overlap the ends of your two strands that are to be 

joined. 

Twist them together about 10 turns. 

2. Separate one of the center twists and thrust the 

two ends through the space as shown. 

3. Pull the knot together and trim off the short ends. 

The Offshore Swivel Knot 

The Offshore swivel knot is used for attaching a swivel or snap to a double-line leader. 

Offshore Swivel Knot --- (Attaching swivel or snap to double-line 

leader) 

1. Slip the loop end of double-line leader through the eye of swivel. 

Rotate the loop end a half-turn to put a single twist between loop and swivel eye. 

22


2. Pass the loop with the twist over the swivel. 

Hold the end of the loop, plus both legs of the double-line leader with one hand. 

Let the swivel slide to other end of double loops now formed. 

3. Still holding the loop and lines with one hand, use your other hand to rotate the 

swivel through center of both loops, at least six times. 

4. Continue holding both legs of the double-line leader tightly, but release the end of 

loop. 

Pull on the swivel and the loops will begin to gather. 

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UNIT 6: SPIN FISHING EQUIPMENT 

PERSONAL GEAR 

Most gear, clothing and miscellaneous tackle you use for other fishing will serve you well in spin 





For most spin fishing tours a 23 ft fiberglass skiff with a shallow draft is required. Your boat 

should be equipped with a large deck and comfortable seating. Other items that are essential to 

have on your boat include: 


Pole 

Poling platform (optional) 



Caste net 

Rod Holders 

Life vests 



Rod & Reels (light spinning) 4,6,8 lbs test for bonefish and permit 

Rod & Reels (intermediate) 12,16,20 lbs test for tarpon and other species 

Reels 

Spinning Casting 

Spinning 

24


General Tackle and Other Accessories 

The following is a recommended list of items necessary for conducting spin fishing tours: 

Tackle box 

Swivels 40-100 lbs test 

Monofilament tippet materials 8,20, 40, 80 lbs test 

Wire leaders 20, 40, 60 lbs test 

Crimps 

Boat bag 

Flies (4-5 boxes) 

Tippet spools (4-6 spools) 

Leaders 

Nippers 

Hook sharpener 


Insect repellent 

Binocular 

Tape measure 

Swiss army knife 

Water bottle 

Camera 

Lunch or snack 

Terminal Tackle: Bonefish Jigs 

You terminal tackle should include the following items: 

Hooks #1 for bonefish and permit 

Hooks #2,3 for tarpon 

Lures (assortment of intermediate & floating) 

Fresh bait (shrimp, hermit crab, conch) for bonefish and permit 

Live bait (sardines) for tarpon, barracuda, jacks and snook 

25


Saltwater Flies @ The Fly Shop ® 

Striper/Albacore Clouser 

Perfect when fish are on smaller 

baitfish. 

Size 2 (#509F) 

Sar-Mul-Mac 

Time-tested favorite for stripers 

and blues. Mullet (white) or 

Anchovy (blue). 

Size 3/0 (#308F) 

Whitlock's Deep Baitfish 

A favorite of ours for Redfish, 

Peacock Bass, Tarpon and 

assorted red fish. 

Size 1/0 (#327F) 

Lefty's Deceiver 

Blue, Gray or Chartreuse. 

Size 3/0 (#294F) 

Saltwater Clouser 

Recommended for anything that 

swims. 

Sizes 1/0,2 (#504F) 

Clouser Half & Half 

Versatile hybrid that works 

everywhere. Chartreuse, Blue or 

Gray. 

Size 1/0 (#540F) 

Striper Caviar 

Awesome striper bug! Fresh or 

salt. 

Size 2/0 (#393F) 

Tropical Punch 

Blanton's all-around, all-species 

attractor. 

26 

American River Clouser 

Striper fly, but has the markings 

and colors that no predatory fish 

can resist. Olive or Gray. 

Size 1/0 (#149F) 

Sea Habit Bucktail 

Superb fly for salmon and 

anything else in the salt. Sardine 

or Anchovy. 

Size 2/0 (#337F) 

Emmons Yak Fly 

Highly touted, new off-shore 

pattern. 

Size 2/0 (#133F) 

R.M. Flatsides 

Great when tarpon or any 

bluewater fish are foraging on


Glades Minnow 

All around, shallow water, Florida 

baitfish and excellent forage fish 

pattern. 

Size 4 (#562F) 

Salty Muggers 

Good for everything that eats 

baitfish. Red/White or 

Chartreuse/White. 

Size 1 (#154F) 

Dorsey's Kwan 

Tan or Chartreuse. 

Size 4 (#744F) 

Cave's Rattling Minnow 

Redfish and peacock bass can't 

keep away from this noisemaker. 

Size 1 (#320F) 

Size 2/0 (#291F) small baitfish. 

Size 2/0 (#553F) 

Mylar Minnow 

Another great Christmas Island 

pattern that effectively imitates 

baby milkfish. 

Size 6 (#520F) 

Darter Clouser Perch 

Another great forage fly, provides 

non-stop action for redfish and 

muddling bones. 

Size 4 (#141F) 

Chernobyl Redfisher 

A mutant fly that catches tough 

redfish. 

Size 4 (#636F) 

Cave's Wobbler 

Red Hot Texas Gulf redfish 

pattern. 

Size 2 (#318F) 

27 

Shallow Water Clouser 

Lightweight alloy eyes and a 

weedless design ease these flies 

through skinny water. 

Chartreuse, Grey or Tan. 

Size 6 (#285F) 

Sand Shrimp 

Redfish can't keep away from this 

hot fly brought to us by experts 

in the Gulf. 

Size 4 (#394F) 

No Wimp Shrimp 

Everything eats this translucent 

tidbit. 

Size 4 (#130F) 

Hamilton Spoon 

Adaptation of a standard 

conventional tackle staple that is 

deadly for red drum.


Borski's Fur Shrimp 

One of the best flies to use when 

bones are darting after migrating 

shrimp. 

Size 4 (#263F) 

Big Boy Trevally Popper 

Awesome trevally popper in Tahiti and the South 

Pacific. 

Size 2/0 (#527F) 

Enrico's Flex Poppers 

The mid-fly hinge adds realistic action to this 

super bluewater popper. White or Chartreuse. 

Size 1/0 (#761F) 

Berke's Juvineel 

Good for stripers, albacore, 

barracuda, tarpon and various 

flats and red fish. 

Size 2 (#121F) 

28 

Size 2 (#831F) 

Ragin' Craven 

Permit, big bones and redfish all 

fall for this non-descript, sandy 

bottom fly. 

Size 2 (#137F) 

Waller Pearly Poppers 

Great for any saltwater top feeders. Green or 

Blue. 

Size 2/0 (#353F) 

Tiger Poppers 

Chartreuse/Orange or Chartreuse/White. 

Size 2/0 (#757F)


Crease Fly 

Catches any mid-sized ocean going fish. Blue, 

Olive or Black. 

Size 1/0 (#829F) 

Snookaroo 

Terrific for shallow and deep-water snook. 

Red/White or Chartreuse. 

Size 3/0 (#325F) 

Puglisi Floating Baitfish 

Acts like a wounded baitfish and attracts predators 

from all directions! 

Size 2/0 (#505F) 

Candy Eel 

This is a great surf fly for cruising fish. 

Size 1/0 (#351F) 

29 

Saltwater Gurgler 

Works well for trevally and nails baby tarpon. 

Red/White, Green/White or Black. 

Size 1/0 (#437F) 

Whitlock's Swimming Baitfish 

Terrific cripple imitation for all predator saltwater 

gamefish. Redhead, Yellow or Shad. 

Size 1/0 (#293F) 

Black Velvet Eel Slider 

Reports from the East Coast indicate this is THE 

night striper fly! 

Size 2/0 (#125F) 

Velvet Eel 

Life-like motion and accurate profile of the velvet 

tubing material drives stripers and blues crazy! 

Size 1/0 (#319F)


EP Glass Minnow 

Another perfect little fly for false 

albies. Tan or Olive. 

Size 1 (#211F) 

Enrico's Pilchard 

An easy-to-cast, all purpose 

saltwater fly. 

Size 2/0 (#635F) 

Everglades Special 

A great juvenile tarpon fly 

everywhere. 

Size 2/0 (#764F) 

Albie Anchovy 

The best fly we found for False 

Albacore. 

Size 6 (#526F) 

Puglisi's Blueback 

Herring 

Very popular for bluefish and 

tuna. 

Size 2/0 (#512F) 

Bronze Mullet 

Snook, tarpon, stripers and blues 

eat it. 

Size 3/0 (#483F) 

30 

Albacore Bay Anchovy 

Just slip up to a group of feeding 

albies and toss this fly their way. 

Then hold on. 

Size 2 (#541F) 

Puglisi Peanut Butter 

Size 2/0 (#506F) 

Peacock Bass Bait 

Superb Central and South 

American fly. 

Size 2/0 (#763F)


UNIT 7: FLY FISHING EQUIPMENT 

PERSONAL GEAR 

Most gear, clothing and miscellaneous tackle you use for other fishing will serve you well in fly 





For most fly fishing tours a 23 ft fiberglass skiff with a shallow draft is required. Your boat 

should be equipped with a large deck and comfortable seating. Other items that are essential to 

have on your boat include: 


Pole 

Poling platform (optional) 



Rod Holders 

Life vests 



ROD AND REELS 

Your boat should be equipped with an assortment of Rod & Reels for fly fishing. It is 

recommended that you have the following Rod and Reels: 

• 8-weight Fly Rod & Reels with floating line for bonefish 

• 9-weight Fly rod & reel with floating line for barracuda, permit, snooks and small tarpon 

• 10-weight Fly Rod & Reel with floating line or intermediate line for tarpon and jacks 

31


Reels 

General Tackle and Accessories 

The following is a recommended list of items necessary for conducting spin fishing tours: 

Boat bag 

Flies (4-5 boxes) 

Tippet spools (4-6 spools) 

Leaders 

Nippers 

Hook sharpener 


Floating lines 

Sink-tip fly lines 

Intermediate fly lines 

Insect repellent 

Binocular 

32


Tape measure 

Swiss army knife 

Camera 

Water bottle 

Lunch or snack 

The Abel Perfect Tool holds virtually everything an angler might need for a day on the water or 

an extended trip. Instruments contained within the Abel Perfect Tool include: 

• A nail knot tying tool 

• Precision clipper/nippers 

• Bodkin (a needle used as a knot or backlash remover or to clear a clogged hook eye) 

• Scissors 

• Hook hone 

• Knife blade 

• Bottle opener 

• Lanyard ring 

• 3/8ths, 11/16ths and 5/16ths box wrenches 

• Metric and inch scales 

SELECTING RODS, REELS AND FLIES 

Bonefish 

Rods 

A 7 to 8 weight rod is ideal for bonefish. These weights allow the angler the power to adequately 

deal with wind, while still providing the finesse to present the fly as delicately as possible. 

Reels 

The reel that you plan to fish for bones with should be a disk drag reel with a capacity of 200 

yards of 20 pound backing. While this may seem excessive to those new to our sport, veteran 

anglers both understand this necessity and embrace it. Because Belizean waters are so rich 

and varied in terms of species, it would be a shame to be fishing for bones with 100 yards of 

backing on your reel, only to encounter a 25-pound permit on the flat you are wading. 

33


Flies 

The best flies that you can use are between size 6 and 8. To be sure, a variety of different sized 

flies are important and it’s good to have a healthy mix of sizes, including some large ones. 

Overall however, the smaller sized bonefish flies will produce more fish. 

You will encounter a variety of fishing situations and bottom surfaces. White sand, light and dark 

brown coral, as well as lush turtle grass beds, will all dictate the both the colours and sink rates 

of the flies that you should be using. 

Tarpon 

Rods 

For juvenile tarpon in the 20 to 50 pound class, a 9 or 10-weight rod will work nicely. When the 

larger tarpon (100+lbs) start to show up in the spring, you need a rod in the 11 to 12 weight 

class. 

Reels 

The small to medium sized tarpon require a smooth disk drag reel with a capacity of 300 yards 

of 30 pound backing. You can get away with a reel that holds less line but you then run the risk 

of losing a good sized tarpon that may show up and take your fly. For the larger fish in the 100 

pound + category, you’ll need a reel with 400 yards of 30 pound backing. This may seem 

excessive, but when you consider that the Belizean record for tarpon on a fly was set at just a 

hair under 200 pounds, it’s far better to be safe that sorry. 

Flies 

By far the most effective size for tarpon flies is a pattern tied on a 3/0 saltwater hook. Larger 

flies will work for bigger fish, especially in specific situations (like when the tarpon are 

motionless just under the water level) but overall it’s quite amazing how smaller flies will 

consistently take very large fish. For the smaller tarpon, hooks ranging in size from 2 to 2/0 are 

highly recommended. 

Snook 

Rods 

Belize is blessed with some pretty big snook so you’ll need an 8 to 10 weight rod to have a 

fighting chance. Aside from the size of the snook, you’ll also need an 8 to 10 weight rod in order 

to help muscle the snook out of the mangroves, which are its favourite location in which to 

ambush prey. 

Reels 

You’ll need a good (smooth) disk drag reel with 200 yards of 20 pound backing. And while all 

but the biggest snook will not come close to getting that far into your backing, medium sized 

tarpon will often frequent the same area, and it’s therefore a good idea to be prepared for a 

couple of possibilities. 

Flies 

Bright colours are by far the most effective for snook flies. Yellow, yellow and red, and yellow 

and black are very productive, whether your casting blindly to snook along the mangroves or 

running your fly across sand and grass flats where snook will be hiding in the depressions. If 

34


you’re tying your own flies, it pays to use longer hooks so that you can create a bulkier fly, which 

better resembles a good meal for the snook. And make sure to add eyes to the flies that you’re 

tying as this small addition will make a huge difference in your strike rate. Because you’ll often 

be fishing for snook in areas of thick vegetation, using a weedless fly like a bendback, or flies 

with weed guards, makes a lot of sense. Surface Poppers can work well but I’m of the opinion 

that streamers are the most effective flies for snook. 

Permit 

Rods 

The average permit in Belize will weigh between 12 and 16 pounds. The ideal fly rod when 

targeting permit, is either a 9 or a 10 weight. These weights will allow the angler to cover the 

broad size spectrum that this challenging fish comes in. These rods will also allow the fly rodder 

to cast the often bulky crab flies that a 7 or 8 weight simply isn’t designed for. 

Reels 

The unique oblong shape of the permit, along with its oversized fork tail, allows the fish to 

generate a great deal of power. When you add a dose of fear to the permit, which happens 

when the fish realizes that it’s hooked, the permit has to be the strongest fish, pound for pound, 

that swims in the ocean. To ensure that you won’t lose the fish once it’s hooked, especially if the 

permit is over 20 pounds, you need disk drag reel with at least 250 yards of 20 pound backing. 

To watch a good sized permit make run after run, is a very special thrill for even the most 

experienced angler. The drag system is critical and must be absolutely smooth throughout the 

long runs that a decent sized permit will make. If the drag jerks, even just a small amount, your 

permit is as good as gone. 

Flies 

You’ve got to “match the hatch” by offering to the permit, flies that are the size of the crabs that 

it will normally encounter while feeding on the flats. This means flies tied on size 4-8 saltwater 

hooks. 

Bauers Fur Crab 

The Fly Shop's favorite permit 

crab. Tan or Olive. 

Size 4 (#272F) 

Permit & Bonefish Flies @ The Fly Shop ® 

Del's Permit Crab 

World record holder! The top 

choice among most permit 

anglers. Lead Eyes. 

Size 2 (#279F) 

35 

Raghead Crab 

The numero uno fly in Mexico and 

Belize. Tan or Olive. 

Sizes 2,6 (#275F)


Swimming Crab 

Ascension Bay experts won't 

leave home without a fist full of 

these popular flies. 

Size 6 (#402F) 

Secret Crab Tan 

Terrific over light colored bottoms 

for both permit and bonefish. 

Size 4 (#400FT) 

Blue Crab 

One of the finest new bonefish 

and permit flies. 

Size 6 (#565F) 

Palometa Crab 

Great fly for Mexican Yucatan 

permit. Tan or Olive. 

Size 6 (#567F) 

McCrab 

This lifelike crab began the 

revolution in new and effective 

permit patterns. 

Size 4 (#278F) 

Secret Crab Brown 

The secret is out about this 

dynamite permit fly. Meant to be 

cast well ahead of the fish and 

retrieved very slowly or not at all. 

Size 4 (#400FB) 

White Sand Fleeing Crab 

Great choice over light colored 

bottoms. 

Size 2 (#405F) 

Turneffe Crab 

Standout pattern designed for the 

marl of central and southern 

Belize. Olive or Cream. 

Size 6 (#273F) 

36 

Senor Raghead 

The newest generation of the 

incredibly effective Yucatan and 

Belizean permit fly. 

Size 2 (#827F) 

Fleeing Crab 

Crustacean found on every 

bonefish menu. Realistic motion 

of the legs beckons strikes. 

Size 6 (#566F) 

Enrico Puglisi Crab 

The proper first choice for dark 

bottoms. Olive. 

Size 4 (#647F) 

Bonecrusher 

Bonefish move quickly to this 

perfect flats profile. 

Size 6 (#646F)


Mangrove Critter 

Tim Borski's amazing catch-all 

crab pattern, it's productive 

everywhere. Weedless. 

Size 1/0 (#274F) 

Mantis Shrimp 

Works well when retrieved 

quickly, and is an especially good 

fly over heavy coral bottom. Olive 

or Orange. 

Size 2 (#403F) 

McVay Gotcha 

If we had to choose only one 

bonefish fly for anywhere in the 

world... 

Sizes 2-8 (#266F) 

Lead Eyes 4 (#267F) 

Spawning Shrimp 

Another effective new addition to 

the flats fly fishing arsenal from 

the Florida Keys. Pearl. 

Size 4 (#261F) 

Magnum Mantis Shrimp 

Everything eats these swimming 

sirloins. Must-haves for Belizean 

permit and Bahamian Bones. 

Olive, Orange or Tan. 

Size 4 (#516F) 

Permit & Bonefish Flies @ The Fly Shop ® 

Deep Water Bunny 

Gotcha 

Terrific in 3 to 5 feet of water. 

Size 4 (#224F) 

37 

Popovic's Ultra Shrimp 

This realistic imitation makes a 

fool of bonefish, permit and 

redfish. 

Sizes 1/0,4 (#286F) 

Mini Mantis Shrimp 

These adolescent shrimp are 

particularly effective for the midsize 

bones of the Mexican 

Yucatan. Blonde or Olive. 

Size 6 (#568F) 

Hot Tail Bunny Gotcha 

Our #1 Los Roques bonefish fly! 

Sizes 4-8 (#258F)


Crazy Charlie 

The fly that revolutionized 

bonefishing. Amber, Pink, Silver, 

Chartreuse or Crystal Brown. 

Sizes 4,6 (#262F) 

Christmas Charlie 

Smaller, deadly, light alloy eye 

models. Orange or Pink. 

Size 8 (#264F) 

K.O. Charlie 

Small, translucent, shallow water 

versions. Yellow, Pink, Orange or 

Tan. 

Size 8 (#343F) 

Mini Puff 

First tied by Capt. Neil Bohannon 

in the 70's, it is still one of the 

best! Tan or Pink. 

Sizes 4,6 (#287F) 

Tuxedo Gotcha 

Well dressed re-models of timetested 

flies. Pearl, Copper, 

Turtlegrass, Yellow or Pink. 

Sizes 6,8 (#265F) 

Isley's Yucatan Charlie 

Great pattern from a true regional 

expert. Brown or Pink. 

Size 6 (#519F) 

Turneffe Charlie 

Deadly in bright sun and shallow 

water. Olive. 

Size 8 (#641F) 

Blind Mini Puff 

Lightly dressed for a soft 

presentation in skinny water. 

Size 4 (#525F) 

Bonefish Clousers 

Excellent deeper water foraging 

bone fly. Chartreuse, Pink or Tan. 

Sizes 2,6 (#270F) 

Banded Wing Charlie 

Trophy Bahamas bones jump on 

these. Pink or Orange. 

Size 6 (#643F) 

Chico's Bonefish Special 

Sizes 4,8 (#284F) 

Shane's Psycho Puff 

Excellent, Bahamian and 

Venezuelan fly. Coral, Olive or 

Tan. 

Sizes 4,8 (#259F) 

Exuma Mini Puff Tailing Bonefish Snapping Shrimp 

38


For shallow flats and nervous fish. 

Chartreuse, Grizzly or Cree. 

Size 8 (#765F) 

Darting Coral Shrimp 

A first choice in super shallow 

water. Pink, Pearl or Tan. 

Size 6 (#513F) 

Banded Shrimp 

Effective over grassy bottoms. 

Olive or Sand. 

Size 6 (#360F) 

Boggle Head 

Very successful in soft 

diatomaceous marl. Tan, Orange, 

Olive or Pearl. 

Sizes 6,8 (#268F) 

McQuade Imitator 

Shrimp 

Lands like a feather, sinks slowly. 

Perfect skinny water fly. Tan, Pink 

or Yellow. 

Size 6 (#788F) 

Mini Krystal Shrimp 

Replaces the Charlie for many 

flats anglers. Chartreuse, Pink or 

Root Beer. 

Size 8 (#153F) 

Miheves Brown Flats Fly 

Good choice over muddy, dark 

bottoms. Brown. 

Size 4 (#124FB) 

Bonefish Bitters 

Popularized in Belize and the 

Yucatan. Hermit Crab, Olive or 

Orange. 

Size 8 (#564F) 

Bone Shrimp 

Deadly in early morning and 

cloudy days. 

39 

Light and pulls through the grass 

easily. 

Gold 8 (#786F) 

Brown 6 (#787F) 

Matthew's TDF Shrimp 

Another contribution by a flats 

expert. Olive or Pearl. 

Size 6 (#136F) 

Miheves Tan Flats Fly 

Innovative and effective back 

country bonefish pattern. Tan. 

Size 6 (#124FT) 

Squimp 

Tan. 

Size 6 (#517F) 

Flash Shrimp 

Size 6 (#411F)


Size 6 (#569F) S ize 4 (#644F) 

Paradise Cockroach 

Terrific, Central American juvenile 

tarpon fly. 

Size 1/0 (#304F) 

Paradise White 

Size 1/0 (#830F) 

Paradise Grizzly Tarpon 

Size 1/0 (#161F) 

Tarpon Flies @ The Fly Shop ® 

Paradise Sunset 

Superb small tarpon fly in the 

creeks and mangrove edges of 

small, shallow flats. 

Size 1/0 (#296F) 

Paradise Black 

Size 1/0 (#640F) 

Paradise Tarpon 

Great Yucatan Tarpon Flies. Fire, 

Purple or Yellow. 

Size 1 (#439F) 

40 

Paradise Purple 

Size 1/0 (#295F) 

Paradise Turquoise 

Size 1/0 (#344F) 

Black Death 

Indispensable on flats of Northern 

Belize. 

Size 3/0 (#306F)


Marquesa Sunrise 

Extremely productive Florida Keys 

pattern. 

Size 3/0 (#305F) 

Red and White 

Lefy Kreh calls this his best all 

around fly. 

Size 3/0 (#307F) 

Lefty's Shark and Cuda 

Fly 

Lefty calls this fly indispensible 

for casting to the flats predators. 

Slim wet profile. 

Size 3/0 (#341F) 

Cockroach 

Number one tarpon fly 

everywhere! 

Size 3/0 (#292F) 

Black Death Rabbit 

From Mexico to Cuba to Belize, 

tarpon love it! 

Size 1/0 (#498F) 

RM Needle Fish 

Easy to cast, with a slim profile 

that makes it very attractive to 

barracudas. 

Size 2 (#633F) 

Kudaliscious 

Hot new needlefish pattern. Cuda love needlefish. 

Size 4/0 (#494F) 

41 

Black Eye 

Great evening fly on any tarpon 

flat 

Size 3/0 (#290F) 

Blue Horizon Tarpon 

Clouser 

Our first choice when fishing for 

deepwater tarpon. Belizean reefcut 

special. 

Size 1/0 (#507F)


The Nasty Needle 

Needlefish are a great source of food for Barracuda. This fly wil pull them off the edges of the flats. 

Chartreuse or Orange. 

Size 2/0 (#354F) 

Economy Cuda Fly 

This is a great fly for Cuda and at this price, you can buy more wire tippet. Purple only. 

Size 3/0 (#333F) 

42


UNIT 8: FLY FISHING KNOTS 

t 

Saltwater fly-fishing tackle doesn't need to be complicated. In fact, freshwater anglers can 

successfully use their tackle for many saltwater species. However, with the variety and size of 

fish swimming offshore, it's wise to match tackle to the game fish being sought. 

Your fly line is just one component of a Scientific Anglers' System. Our backing, reels, leaders 

and tippets are designed to work together - so you can concentrate on catching fish. Even so, 

there are some basics, such as knots, and some principles, such as matching rod, reel and line 

weights, which can make fly fishing that much more enjoyable. 

Most anglers start with a 9 or 10-weight line, suitable for most saltwater fish under 40 pounds. A 

matching 9-foot rod and quality reel (such as a System'" 2-M reel) provides the strength and line 

capacity needed for scorching bonefish or permit runs. 

A 7 or 8 weight outfit is sufficient for smaller species, such as sea trout or redfish, while a 12 or 

13 weight outfit is the best way to handle tarpon or sailfish in a stiff wind. All reels need plenty of 

backing ... an angry tarpon can peel off line and be into your backing before you realize it. If 

your line-to-backing connection fails you, you've wasted a lot of time and effort. (Not to mention 

losing your fly line.) Mastering the knots you need - from the reel to the fly - isn't difficult. 

KNOTS 

Certain knots have been developed specifically for saltwater fishing, while others work equally 

well in freshwater situations. The illustrations which follow show knots favored by experienced 

fly anglers. 

43


BACKING TO REEL CONNECTION______________________________ 

The most basic connection - anchoring backing to the reel arbor (or spool center) -uses the 

Arbor Knot. 

Tie an overhand knot on the backing end and tighten it. Insert this knotted end between the reel 

foot and the arbor, circle the arbor, and pull the knotted end out so it's next to the standing part 

of the backing. Tie a second overhand knot with the tag end around the standing part of the 

backing, about 2" from the first knot. 

44


Holding the reel in your left hand, pull on the standing part of the backing with your right hand, 

snuggling the first overhand knot against the arbor. Trim the tag end, and wind the backing onto 

your reel. 

BACKING TO FLY LINE CONNECTION__________________________ 

Many anglers prefer a Surgeon's Loop (or a Bimini Twist Loop) on the backing end so they can 

switch fly lines easily. The reel end of the fly line usually has a Double Nail Knot Loop or a 

Whipped Loop. Loops should always be connected as shown below. (Backing may also be 

connected directly to lighter-weight fly lines with a Nail Knot or Tube Knot, as in freshwater flyfishing.) 

The loop-to-loop connection is the strongest and best way to get started. It should be used with 

ALL braided core lines, such as Tarpon Taper and single filament Monocore lines, so knots will 

hold. 

The knots in this section also work well for shooting heads and shooting lines. 

LOOP-TO-LOOP CONNECTION 

Many anglers prefer to work with loop-to-loop systems for interchanging lines, leaders and 

tippets. 

45


The connection must be made as shown by passing one loop (A) over the other loop (B) before 

putting A's other end through loop B. This creates the equivalent of a Square Knot. 

The Surgeon's Loop is easy to tie. Double back about 8" of backing, forming a 2" loop with the 

doubled line. (Use 16" of backing to form an 8" loop if you intend to pass the reel through the 

loop to change lines.) 

Tie a loose overhand knot with the doubled backing. Bring the doubled backing through the 

opening in the loose overhand knot a second time, from the same direction. Moisten the knot 

area. 

46


Grasp the standing part and the tag end of the backing in the left hand and the loop part in the 

right hand. Pull the loop to tighten. Loop size can be adjusted by pulling the knot to the desired 

point before moistening and tightening. Clip the tag end. 

The Double Nail Knot Loop requires a small diameter nail, paper clip or similar object about 

twice the diameter of the fly line. A small diameter tube makes the knot easier to tie. 

Create a small loop in the reel end of the fly line. Hold the tube and the looped end of the fly line 

with your left thumb and forefinger so about two inches of the doubled fly line and the tube 

sticks out to the right. With your right hand, form a half loop in a 12" to 18" length of 12 to 15 

pound mono. Pinch down and hold this half loop with your left thumb and forefinger next to the 

tube and fly line. 

47


Use your right hand to grasp one leg of the mono loop and make 5 to 6 snug wraps over the 

tube, doubled fly line and the other leg of the fly line loop. These wraps should butt against each 

other, and be 1/2" to 3/4" from the end of the fly line loop. 

Then slide your left thumb and forefinger forward to hold the wraps so they don't unwind while 

you work the tag end of the mono through the tube from right to left. Carefully remove the tube 

by sliding it to the left. (If you are using a nail or other stiffener, you will have to work the end of 

the mono under the wraps along the nail before removing it.) 

Semi-tighten the knot by pulling gently on the tag end of the mono. Don't pull on the fly line! 

48


Moisten the knot area, inspect knot wraps for smoothness, and tighten the knot by 

simultaneously pulling on both tag ends of the mono so it "bites" into the fly line. Trim the mono 

tag ends. Tie a second Nail Knot next to the first one. 

Trim the mono tag ends of the second knot and the fly line tag, and then pull hard on the fly line 

loop to test its strength. Coat the connection with rubber-based cement (such as Pliobond) for 

added strength. 

FLY LINE TO LEADER CONNECTION____________________________ 

A Double Nail Knot Loop on the tapered end of the fly line and a Surgeon's Loop on the leader 

butt is a smooth connection that won't jam in the guides, yet allows for quick leader changes. 

Tighten the Surgeon's Loop by pulling on the loop, tag end and standing part of leader butt. 

Pliers should only be used to snug tag end. 

LEADER TO TIPPET CONNECTION_______________________________ 

The tippet is tied directly to the leader; the other end is then tied to a shock tippet. With some 

fish, such as bonefish, anglers skip the shock tippet, tying the tippet directly to the fly. The tippet 

can be from one foot to 3 or 4 feet long. If you already know how to tie a Blood Knot, use it to 

join tippet and leader. If not, try the easier Surgeon's Knot. 

The Surgeon's Knot requires the leader and tippet to be placed side-by-side so they overlap 

(for about 6") with ends facing in opposite directions. 

49


Pinch the standing leader and tippet tag end with the left thumb and forefinger and use the right 

hand to tie an overhand knot with the leader tag end and the tippet. (Yes, the entire length of the 

tippet must be passed completely through the overhand knot loop, even though the leader tag 

end is only about 5" long) Don't tighten me completed overhand knot! 

Grasp the completed loop with the left hand and make another pass through the same overhand 

knot, passing the full length of the tippet and the leader tag end through a second time. 

Draw the loop down to a one-inch diameter by simultaneously pulling on leader and tippet. 

Moisten the loop; grasp the leader and tippet tag on the left with your left hand, and the tippet 

50


and leader tag on the right with your right hand. Pull all four ends simultaneously to snug the 

knot tight. Trim tag ends. 

TIPPET TO SHOCK TIPPET CONNECTION_________________________ 

Depending on the species sought, the final connection may be a shock tippet between the 

leader (or class tippet) and the actual fly. It's usually of wire or heavy mono, and is often 

connected to a doubled leader or tippet (tied with a Bimini Twist for 100% strength.) The Bimini 

Twist and other knots are detailed in the publications listed at the end of these instructions. 

Use the Albright Special for tying a light class tippet to a heavy shock tippet of mono or wire. It 

can also join different materials of different diameters. 

Start by doubling back a couple of inches of heavy mono (or wire) and hold the loop with your 

left thumb and forefinger. From the right, insert about 10 inches of the light tippet through the 

heavy mono loop. 

While holding the loop, pinch the tippet between your left thumb and forefinger, and use your 

right hand to wrap the tippet tag end back over both strands of the heavier leader and the tippet. 

Starting next to your fingers and working toward the loop end, make 10 to 12 fairly tight wraps. 

51


Push the tag end of the tippet back through the loop on the side opposite where it originally 

entered so both tippet strands exit on the same side of the loop. Pull on the standing part of the 

tippet to remove the loop you were holding in your left Hand. Pull both ends of the tippet snug. 

Pull gently on both ends of the heavy leader loop so the knot slides toward the closed end or the 

leader loop. Squeeze the knot with your fingers and work it down to the loop end. Moisten the 

knot. Hold the standing and tag leader strands in your right hand, and the tag and standing 

shock tippet strands in your left hand. Pull as tight as possible using a pliers on the tag end. Clip 

off both tag ends. 

TIPPET TO FLY CONNECTION___________________________________ 

If you are using a shock tippet, a Homer Rhode Loop Knot is preferred. 

52


Form an open overhand knot about 4" to 6" from the end of the shock leader. Pass the shock 

leader tip through the hook eye and back through the open overhand knot. It should re-enter on 

the same side it exited. 

Tighten the overhand knot against the hook eye. Use the shock leader tip to tie an overhand 

knot around the standing part of the shock leader, tighten lightly and slide this knot toward the 

first knot. (Its position will determine the loop size.) Moisten the knot, and firmly pull on the tag 

end with pliers to seat the knot. 

Pull on the standing part of the shock leader so the first overhand knot slides toward the second 

knot, forming the desired loop. Trim the tag end, allowing at least 1/16" for slippage. 

53


If you are not using a shock tippet, the Improved Clinch Knot is a perennial favorite for tippets 

under 12 pounds. Insert 5" to 6" of tippet through the hook eye. Make five turns with the tag end 

around the standing part of the tippet, winding away from the hook. 

Hold the hook in your left hand and push the tag end through the opening between the hook eye 

and the first wrap. This creates an open tippet loop over the wraps. 

Push the tag end through this open loop and pull lightly until the knot begins to close. 

54


Moisten the knot area. Alternately pull on the standing portion of the tippet and the hook until the 

knot snugs up against the hook. Trim the tag end. 

EFFECTIVE KNOT-TYING__________________ 

Pliers and gloves will help you tighten your knots, and save your fingers and palms from injury. 

Few knots are 100% of the leader's or line's rated strength but if you moisten all knots before 

drawing them tight, tighten them slowly, and test every knot by pulling on it - hard - you will have 

few knot failures. Be sure to replace leaders, tippets and lines when they show wear or 

abrasion. And please, never discard used monofilament anywhere but in a trash receptacle or 

recycling bin. 

55


UNIT 9: SPORT FISH OF THE MBRS 

Game Fishes 

Great DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Have a large under-slung jaw with 

Barracuda visible pointed teeth. 

Spyyraena 

DESCRIPTION: Are large, silvery, and long. Barracudas 

barracuda 

normally have scattered dark blotches on their bodies. 

Barracuda, 

Their dorsal fins have a long space of separation between them. 

Cuda, Picuda 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Generally drift around reefs. They are 

usually solitary, but can be found in schools. 

They open and close their mouths to aid in respiration. 

Bonefish 

Albula vulpes DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Short, under-slung mouth; single dorsal 

Macabí fin; and deeply forked tail. 

DESCRIPTION: Silver, slender, and round body. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primary an inshore fish feeding over 

shallow flats often near mangroves or lush grass flats, occasionally over 

white sand. Travels in loose schools; roots out shrimp, shellfish, crabs, 

and fish from the bottom. Spawns offshore, eggs hatching into ribbonlike 

larvae that change into fish-like form at about 2 inches and more 

inshore. Size: 3 to 5 pounds. 

Permit 

Trachinotus 

falcatus 

Palometa 

Tarpon 

Megalops 

atlanticus 

Sábalo 

Ladyfish 

Elops saurus 

Tzotzín 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: High back profile. Orangish area at 

start of anal fin. DESCRIPTION: 

Brilliantly silver with shades of iridescent blue on head and back. 

Belly often yellowish. Tip of dorsal fin dark. Dark circular area 

behind base of pectoral fin. Sometime has dark midbody blotch. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found on grass flats, sand flats and in 

channels. Occasionally swim over reefs. Normally solitary. Feeds 

on mollusks (small clams), urchins and crustaceans (crabs, shrimp) 

and small fish. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Shiny, large “stainless steel” scales. 

Upturned mouth. 

DESCRIPTION: Last ray of dorsal fin extended into long filament. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an inshore fish. Normally 

school during the day. Actively feed at night. Slow grower; matures 

at 7 to 13 years of age; spawning occurs between May and September; 

female may lay more than 12 million eggs; can tolerate wide range of 

salinity; juveniles commonly found in fresh water; can breathe air at 

the surface; feeds mainly on fish and large crustaceans. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long, upturned mouth that extends 

beyond eye. Ventral fins are directly below dorsal fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Terminal mouth; slender body; small scales, last 

dorsal ray not elongated; head small and pointed. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inshore fish. Inhabit bays and 

estuaries; occasionally enters freshwater, occurring in tidal pools and 

canals; often forms large schools and harasses bait at the surface. 

Know to spawn offshore; adults feed predominantly on fish and 

crustaceans; leaps when hooked. 

56


Cobia DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long torpedo-shaped body. 

Rachycentron DESCRIPTION: Silver to dark brown. Long, slim fish with broad 

canadum depressed head. Lower jaw projects past upper jaw. Dark mid-body 

Esmedregal stripe extends through eye to tail. Forked tail. 

(Mx) 

Cabío (Bz) 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Both inshore and near-shore inhabiting 

inlets, bays and among mangroves. Spawns in spring and early 

summer. Feeds on crabs, squid and small fish. 

Common 

Snook 

Centropomus 

undecimalis 

Robalo 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Distinct black lateral line. Sloping 

forehead. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery olive; large mouth, protruding lower jaw; 

pelvic fin yellow. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit coastal and brackish waters 

along mangrove shorelines. Spawns primarily in summer; cannot 

tolerate water temperatures below 60°F; can tolerate wholly fresh or 

saltwater. Schools along shore and in passes during spawning 

season. Feed on fish and large crustaceans. Size: 5 to 8 pounds. 

57


Blue Marlin 

Makaira 

nigricans 

Marlín Azul 

White 

Marlin 

Tetrapturus 

albidus 

Marlín Blanco 

Sailfish 

Istiophorus 

platypterus 

Pez Vela 

Swordfish 

Xiphias gladuis 

Pez Espada 

(Bz) 

Emperador 

Wahoo 

Acanthocybium 

solandri 

Wahoo 

Pelagic Fishes 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Spear-like upper jaw. 

DESCRIPTION: Cobalt blue on top shading to silvery white on 

bottom. Dorsal fin pointed at front end. Pectoral fin and anal fin 

pointed. Lateral line reticulated (interwoven) 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: A blue-water fish. Largest of the 

Atlantic marlins (can reach 11 ft or 2,000 pounds). Males do not 

exceed 300 pounds. Make trans-Atlantic migrations. Feeds on squid 

and pelagic fishes, including blackfin tuna and frigate mackerel. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Dark spots on dorsal fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Upper body is dark blue to chocolate brown, 

shading to silvery white underbelly. Upper jaw elongated in shape 

of spear. Tips of first dorsal, pectoral and first anal fins rounded. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: A blue water fish. Common to 8 ft. 

Uses its bill to stun fast-moving fishes, then turns to consume 

them. Feeds on squid and pelagic fishes. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: First dorsal fin greatly enlarged in 

the form of a sail with many black spots. 

DESCRIPTION: Dark blue on upper body, brown-blue on the 

sides and silvery white on the underbelly. Upper jaw elongated in 

the form of a spear. Pelvic fins are very long and narrow. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Offshore species. Common to 7 ft. 

Rapid growing species, reaching 4 to 5 feet in a single year. Swims 

at speeds up to 50 knots. Feeds on the surface or at mid-depth on 

smaller pelagic fishes and squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long, flat, sword-like upper jaw. 

DESCRIPTION: Back is either black, greyish blue, brown, 

metallic purple or bronze. Sides are dusky and underbelly is dirty 

white. Lacks scales, teeth and pelvic fins. First dorsal fin high, 

rigid and short. Large eyes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. Large swordfish are 

all females and prefer cooler waters. Feeds on squid, octopus and 

pelagic fishes of all kinds. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Sharply pointed snout. 

DESCRIPTION: Long, cigar-shaped body. Bright silver to silvery 

gray with dark bluish back. 24-30 Cobalt blue vertical bars extend to 

below the lateral line. Nine dorsal finlets and widely forked tail. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish, but 

may be found over deeper reefs. Travel solitary or in pairs. Feeds 

on fishes and squid. 

Cero DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Series of yellow-gold streaks along 

Scomberomorus midline. 

regalis DESCRIPTION: Long, cigar-shaped body. Iridescent bluish green 

on the back and silvery on the sides. Small yellow-gold body spots 

Sierra (Mx) on either side of streaks. 

Makerel (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish, but 

may be found over reefs and drop-offs. Usually solitary, 

occasionally travel in pairs or small groups. Feeds on fishes and 

58


squid. Spawns offshore in midsummer. 

King DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Lateral line drops abruptly below 

second dorsal fin. 

Mackerel 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery with no markings. Back is iridescent 

Scomberomorus 

bluish green. Streamlined body with tapered head. Juvenile often 

cavalla 

have yellowish spots on sides. 

Kingfish (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish. Travel 

Sierra (Bz) solitary or in small groups. Spawns in midsummer offshore. Feeds 

Sierra Blanca on small fish and squid. 

(Mx) 

Spanish DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellow-gold spots on sides. 

Mackerel DESCRIPTION: Silvery with bluish back. Elongated body. Front 

Scomberomorus of dorsal fin black. 

maculates HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish, but 

Sierra (Mx) 

Makerel (Bz) 

may also be found in shallow water estuaries. Usually form large 

schools. 

Pompano 

Dolphin 

Coryphaena 

equisetis 

Dorado 

Dolphin 

Coryphaena 

hippurus 

Dorado 

Mahi Mahi 

Little 

Tunny 

Euthynnus 

alletteratus 

Bonito (Bz & 

Mx) 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: 

DESCRIPTION: Rounded head profile with deep body and short 

pectoral fin. Body has prominent dark spots, set on blue, green and 

yellow background colours. The tooth patch on the tongue of the 

dolphin it is round in shape and in pompano dolphin it is distinctly 

squarish. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish. 

Usually are found under sargassum floats and areas with strong 

currents. Are fast growers and females mature at 9-12 inches. 

They live no more than 5 years. Spawning takes place throughout 

the spring and summer. Feed on small fishes, crustaceans (under 

floating seaweed), jacks, flying fish and squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long, continuous dorsal fin extends 

from above eye to base of tail. Long pectoral fins. Male (bull) have 

very blunt head. Female have rounded, torpedo-shaped head. 

DESCRIPTION: Brilliant silver with males displaying bright 

yellow, yellow-green and blue iridescent spots. Females display 

brilliant blue iridescence spots with blue markings on head. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. Fast swimmer 

(approx. 50 knots). Found under sargassum floats. Usually are in 

small aggregations of 2 or 2 bulls and numerous females. One of 

the fastest-growing fish. Thought to live no more than 5 years. 

Spawns in warm oceanic currents throughout much of the year. 

Feeds on flying fish and squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Robust, torpedo-shaped body. 

DESCRIPTION: Steel blue with 3-5 broken, dark wavy lines, not 

extending below lateral line. The belly is white and lacks stripes, 

but has 3-7 dark spot between the pelvic and pectoral fins. Caudal 

fin is deeply lunate. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. School according to 

size and in large groups up to a mile long. Feeds on crustaceans, 

clupeid fishes, squid and tunicates. It often feeds on sardines, scads 

and herring at the surface. Spawning occurs in April through 

November. They are fast-growing, but short-lived fish (live no more 

than 5 years) and reach sexual maturity at age one (14 inches). 

59


Blackfin 

Tuna 

Thunnus 

atlanticus 

Atún aleta 

negra (Mx) 

Skipjack 

Tuna 

Katsuwonus 

pelamis 

Striped tuna 

Yellowfin 

Tuna 

Thunnus 

albacares 

Atún aleta 

amarilla 

(Mx) 

Albacore 

Thunnus 

alalunga 

Longfin Tuna 

Albacora (Mx) 

Atlantic 

Bonito 

Sarda sarda 

Bonito (Bz) 

Barrilete (Mx) 

Spawns offshore. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Dusky finlets. 

DESCRIPTION: The back is dark metallic blue, the sides are 

silvery-gray and the belly is white. Many have traces of bronzecoloured 

line down each side. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An open-water fish. Feeds on the tiny 

larvae of stomatopods (king shrimp or mantis shrimp), true shrimp, 

crabs and fish larvae. It also feeds on juvenile and adult fish and 

squid. They are a short-lived, fast growing species (lives no more 

than 5 years). They reach sexual maturity at 2 years old (4-6 lbs). 

Spawns in the open sea during the summer. Prefers warmer waters. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Horizontal stripes on its belly. 

DESCRIPTION: The back is dark purplish blue. In large 

specimens the stripes on its belly may be broken into rows of 

blotches. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: A migratory, open-water 

species that forms very large schools, often with the blackfin tuna. 

They are ravenous predators, primarily feed on fishes (herrings, 

mackerels and flying fish) and squid. A fast-growing, short-lived 

fish that can reach 21/2 feet at age 3. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Long crescent-shaped extensions of 

the anal and second dorsal fins. 

DESCRIPTION: Deep, streamlined body. It has a metallic, deep 

blue back, changing to yellow and silver on the belly. A yellow 

band extends down the side, and the belly often has about 20 

vertical broken lines. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An open-water fish. Are spawning and 

eating machines. Are fairly long-lived. Some reach sexual maturity 

during their fist year, but most are age 2-3 when they first spawn. 

They spawn several times a year in the open sea in warmer waters. 

Feed on a huge variety of finfish, squid, shrimp, and crabs. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Very long pectoral fins 

DESCRIPTION: Deep-bodied, streamlined fish with very long 

pectoral fins. The rear edge of the tail fin is trimmed in white. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found in the open sea away from 

shore. They are migratory stragglers that are usually found with 

yellowfin and blackfin tunas. They spend most of their time below 

the thermocline in cooler waters. They can live at least 10 years and 

begin to spawn at age 5. Spawning is usually done in large groups. 

Feed on a variety of fish, as well as squid and crustaceans. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Longitudinal stripes on its back. 

DESCRIPTION: Small, streamlined fish with longitudinal stripes 

on its back. The back and upper sides are steel-blue. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An open-water fish. Are relentless 

predators from the time they hatch. Feed on fish, including herrings, 

menhaden, hake, mackerels, anchovies, as well as shrimp and squid. 

They live at least 9 years, but are not large fish. They reach sexual 

maturity at age 2 and spawn in the early summer. Uncommon in the 

Caribbean. 

60


Groupers - Serranidae 

Red Grouper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Smooth foredorsal fin. 

Epinephelus morio Juveniles have pale bluish borders on rear dorsal, anal and tail 

Mero Mestizo fins. 

(Bz) 

DESCRIPTION: Reddish brown with small, scattered whitish 

blotches. Can change colour, pale or darken and display bars. 

Squared-off tail. Have block dots around the eyes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit reefs and edge of sea 

grass beds. Rest on bottom, blending with surroundings. 

Undergoes sex reversal (young individuals are female, 

becoming male as the age). Lifespan of at least 25 years. 

Feeds on squid, crustaceans and fish. 

YellowMouth 

Grouper 

Mycteroperca 

interstitalis 

Cabrilla 

Yellowfin 

Grouper 

Mycteroperca 

venenosa 

Cabrilla aleta 

amarilla 

Perca (Mx) 

Nassau 

Grouper 

Epinephelus 

striatus 

Mero del Caribe 

(Mx) 

Mero (Bz) 

Black 

Grouper 

Mycteroperca 

bonaci 

Abadejo (Mx, Bz) 

Rockfish (Bz) 

Warsaw 

Grouper 


nigritus 

Black Jewfish 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Distinct yellow around corners 

of mouth. Pectoral fins are pale at base and margin. Juveniles 

are bicolored (dark back, white belly) with yellow spinous fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Tan to brownish grey with darker spots. 

Can pale or darken dramatically. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Outer third of pectoral fin is 

pale to bright yellow; Tail has thin, dark irregular margin. 

DESCRIPTION: Color highly variable. Black, gray, brown, 

olive-green or red rectangular blotches over light background. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits reef tops and walls. 

Often rest on bottom in secluded spots. Can change color, pale 

or darken. Undergoes sex reversal from female to male in latter 

part of life. Feeds on fish and squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Black saddle spot on base of 

tail. 

DESCRIPTION: Five irregular, olive-brown bars over light 

background. Diagonal bar from snout across eye. Black dots 

around the eyes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow to mid-range 

coral reefs. Can change from pale to almost black. Often 

rest on bottom, blending with surroundings. Forms large 

spawning aggregations, making this species highly vulnerable to 

over-fishing. Spawns in December and January. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Thin, pale yellow margin on 

pectoral fins. Tail has wide, black margin with thin, white 

edge. DESCRIPTION: Olive 

or gray body coloration with black blotches and brassy spots. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit reefs, rocky bottoms and 

drop-off walls in water over 60 ft. deep. Spawns between 

January and March. Young are predominantly female, 

transforming into males, as they grow larger. Feeds on fish and 

squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long second spine of dorsal 

fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Uniform brown with no obvious markings 

or spots. Square tail fin. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit deep reefs, rocky 

bottoms, caves and ledges in waters between 40 – 400 meters 

61


Fiat (Mx) 

Wasa (Bz) 

Tiger Grouper 

Mycteroperca 

tigris 

Cabrilla 

Negrillo (Mx) 

Rock Hind 


adscensionis 

Cabrilla 

Payaso (Mx) 

Red Hind 


guttatus 

Strawberry 

grouper 

Cabrilla 

Payaso (Mx) 

Jimmy Hind (Bz) 

Goliath 

Grouper 


itajara 

Jewfish 

Cherna 

deep. Feeds on fish, crabs and shrimps. 

Llegan a pesar hasta 120 Kg. Viven alrededor de 25 a 30 años. Se 

alimentan de cangrejos, camarones y peces. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Have distinct tiger-stripe bars. 

Juveniles are yellow with dusky mid-body streak. 

DESCRIPTION: Nine brown to black diagonal bars over light 

background. Can dramatically change color, pale or darken. 

Occasionally bright red, especially at cleaning stations. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit reefs and drop-offs. Rest 

on bottom in secluded spots. Often in cleaning stations. 

Spawns in February and March. Feeds on fish and squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Have black saddle blotch on 

base of the tail. 

DESCRIPTION: Reddish to dark dots cover the body and all 

fins. Have one to four pale or dark blotches along back, below 

dorsal fin. Can pale to almost white or darken dramatically. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow, rocky inshore 

areas, and occasionally deep reefs. Drifts near bottom with tail 

down. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: The caudal, anal and back 

dorsal fins have black margin edged in white. 

DESCRIPTION: Have reddish spots over whitish 

background. Can pale or darken. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow inshore patch 

reefs to deep banks. Drift just above bottom or rest quietly on 

pectoral fins, blending with surroundings. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Head and fins covered with small 

black spots. 

DESCRIPTION: Largest fish observed on the reefs. 

Yellowish brown to olive-brown with irregular dark vertical 

bars on the side of the body. Pectoral and caudal fins rounded. 

First dorsal fin shorter than and not separated from second 

dorsal. Small eyes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Hides in caves, wrecks and under 

ledges. Juveniles inhabit mangroves. Spawns over summer 

months; lifespan of 30 to 50 years. Feeds on crustaceans and 

fish. 

62


Jacks - Carangidae 

Greater DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Diagonal band runs from lip, 

across eye to beginning of dorsal fin. Short fore-dorsal fin. 

Amberjack 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery with yellow cast fins. Have 

Seriola 

diffuse, yellowish stripe along mid-body. Soft dorsal fin less 

dumerili 

than twice the length of the anal fin. No scutes. Largest of 

Coronado the jacks. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. Often in large 

schools, occasionally solitary. Spawn offshore throughout 

much of the year. Feeds on squid, fish, and crustaceans. 

Blue 

Runner 

Caranx 

crysos 

Jurel 

Crevalle 

Jack 

Caranx 

hippos 

Jurel de carne 

negra (Mx) 

Caballo (Bz) 

Horse-Eye 

Jack 

Caranx-latus 

Jurel de carne 

blanca (Mx) 

Ojon (Bz) 

Almaco 

Jack 

Seriola 

rivoliana 

Coronado 

(Mx) 

Ocean Jack 

(Bz) 

African 

Pompano 

Alectic 

ciliaris 

Abanderado 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Tips of tail fins dark. 

DESCRIPTION: Bluish silver to brassy or olive. Frequently 

has black spot near upper end of gill cover. Breeding males 

become blackish. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Travels in school in open 

water. Matures by 9 to 10 inches. Spawns offshore from 

January through August. Young form schools associated with 

floating objects. Adults feed on fish, shrimp and squid. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Blackish blotch on pectoral fins. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery, with yellowish tail and belly. 

Black spot near top of gill cover. Soft dorsal and anal fins 

almost identical in size. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Common in both inshore waters 

and the open sea. Tolerates a wide range of salinities. Feeds 

mainly on small fish. Peak spawning occurs offshore from 

March through September. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellowtail fins. Pectoral fin 

clear. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery. Usually have dark tips on dorsal 

and upper tail fin. Often a small black spot at upper end of 

gill cover. Usually have black scutes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swim in open water over reefs, 

usually in small groups to large schools. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Dark diagonal band runs from 

lip, across eye to beginning of dorsal fin. Long fore-dorsal 

fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery, burnished, deep-body with bluish 

or greenish tints. Compressed body. Tail is deeply forked. 

Juvenile have long thread-like filaments from dorsal and anal 

fins. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Deep, open-water fish. Often 

travel alone, but occasionally in small schools. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Steep, blunt forehead. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery, deep-bodied amberjack. Fins 

dusky. Flattened body. No scutes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Deep, open-water fish. Often 

travel alone, but occasionally in schools. Spawns offshore, 

apparently during spring, summer and fall. 

63


Florida 

Pompano 


carolinus 

Pampano 

Rainbow 

Runner 

Elagatis 

bipinnulata 

Bar Jack 

Caranx ruber 

Cojinuda 

Yellow 

Jack 

Caranx 

bartholomaei 

Cojinuda 

DESCRIPTION: Greenish gray on back, shading to silvery 

sides. Body deeply flattened with small mouth. No scutes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found inshore and nearshore 

waters, especially along sandy beaches and over grassbeds. 

Often found in turbid water. May be found in water as deep 

as 130 feet. Are usually less than 3 pounds. Spawns 

offshore between March and September. Feeds on mollusks 

and crustaceans, especially sand fleas. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Two blue stripes run length of 

body with pale to brilliant yellow stripe between. Dorsal and 

anal finlet. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery yellow to blue. Tail fins yellowish. 

Head more pointed and body more elongated compared to 

most jacks. Rear dorsal and anal fins often appear to be 

serrated. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open water fish, rarely over 

reefs. Occasionally swim along walls. May form large 

schools. Prefers areas with current. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Bright blue and black border 

on back runs along dorsal fin and onto lower tail fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery. Can darken almost to black, 

especially when feeding near bottom. Eyes are red and 

pectoral fins are large. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swim in open water over reefs 

in small groups to large schools. Opportunistic feeders, they 

often follow or mix with goatfish and stingrays as they dig 

in the sand. Spawns offshore during February to August. 

Feeds on pelagic fishes and occasionally on small benthic 

fishes, shrimps and squids. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellow tail fins. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery, with yellow cast. Fins and tail 

yellowish. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swims over outer reefs usually 

solitary or in small groups. Spawns from February to 

October. Feeds on fishes that live on the bottom. 

Banded DESCRIPTION: Bluish, greenish, or brown. Soft dorsal fin 

about twice the length of the anal fin. Tail-lobes are white 

Rudderfish 

tipped. Juveniles have dark band from eye to first dorsal fin 

Seriola 

and six prominent bars on body. 

zonata 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Nearshore and offshore. 

Coronado Associated with weed lines or floating debris and may 

(Mx) follow shark and other large fish. Adults feed on fish and 

Rapadora shrimp. Spawns offshore most of the year. 

(Bz) 

64


Palometa 


goodie 

Palometa (Mx, 

Bz) 

Permit 


falcatus 

Permit (Bz) 

Palometa 

(Mx) 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Four dark body bars. 

Extremely long dorsal and anal fins. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery with greyish-blue-green on top of 

head and along the back. Yellow on breast. Black edges on 

dorsal, anal and tail fins. No scutes. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits clear water along sandy 

beaches and bays, occasionally found over reefs. Young 

frequent surge zone near beaches. Thought to spawn offshore 

in spring, summer, and fall. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: High back profile. Orangish 

area at start of anal fin. 

DESCRIPTION: Brilliantly silver with shades of iridescent 

blue on head and back. Belly often yellowish. Tip of dorsal 

fin dark. Dark circular area behind base of pectoral fin. 

Sometime has dark mid-body blotch. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found on grass flats, sand flats 

and in channels. Occasionally swim over reefs. Normally 

solitary. Feeds on mollusks (small clams), urchins and 

crustaceans (crabs, shrimp) and small fish. 

65


Snappers - Lutjanidae 

Grey Snapper 

Lutjanus griseus 

Black Snapper 

Mangrove 

Snapper 

Pargo Mulato 

Lane Snapper 

Lutjanus synagris 

Biajaiba (Mx) 

Rayado (Bz) 

Mutton 

Snapper 

Lutjanus analis 

Pargo Lunar (Mx) 

Colorado (Bz) 

Yellowtail 

Snapper 

Ocyurus 

chrysurus 

Rubio (Bz) 

Canané (Mx) 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Darkish band occasionally runs 

from lip across eye. 

DESCRIPTION: Vary from pale gray to dark gray or reddish 

brown. Occasionally have faint body bars. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow inshore areas, 

especially grass beds, mangroves, rocky ledges and shallow 

reefs. Form small schools. Spawns June through August. Feeds 

on Crustaceans and small fish. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Diffuse black spot. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery-pink to reddish with short, irregular 

pink and yellow lines on its sides. Pectoral, ventral and anal fins 

often yellow. Dorsal and tail fins often reddish 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow reefs and other 

inshore areas where they form small schools. Spawns in 

March to September. Sexually mature at 6 inches. Feeds on 

the bottom, taking crustaceans, mollusks, and fish. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Fine blue lines below eye. Pointed 

anal fin. Black spot on mid-body. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery to gray, reddish brown and olive 

green. Fins have reddish tint. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An inshore species associated with 

grass beds, mangroves, sandy areas, and reefs. Spawns in July 

and August. Feeds on fish, crustaceans and snails. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Brilliant yellow mid-body stripe 

and tail. 

DESCRIPTION: Silvery to white with bluish back and upper 

sides. Yellow spots on upper body. Narrow yellow stripes in 

lower sides and belly. Deeply forked tail. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swim in mid-water in loose 

schools or alone. Feeds on small fish and invertebrates. 

Spawns in midsummer. 

Dog Snapper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Pale triangular patch under eye. 

Lutjanus jocu DESCRIPTION: Pale gray to reddish brown. Large, sharp 

canine teeth. Line of blue dots under eye. 

Huachipargo o 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Large adults are found offshore 

Pargo perro over coral and rocky reefs. Solitary. Spawns from January to 

(Mx) 

July. Known as night feeder; feeding on fishes, mollusks and 

Huach (Bz) crustaceans. 

Schoolmaster 

Lutjanus apodus 

Pargo Canchix 

Bruk pot (Bz) 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellow fins. Juvenile have bars 

on back. 

DESCRIPTION: Silver to olive green. Blue line under eye. 

Often have 8 pale bars. Long triangular snout. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Juvenile found in grass flats and 

adults around reefs and on continental shelf. Spawns in July and 

August. Feeds on crustaceans, small fishes and gastropods. 

66


Mahogany 

Snapper 

Lutjanus 

mahogoni 

Cubera 

Snapper 

Lutjanus 

cyanopterus 

Cubera (Mx) 

Colmilludo (Bz) 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Reddish margin on tail. 

DESCRIPTION: Silver to white, often with reddish tinge. 

Reddish border on dorsal and anal fins. Often have dark spot 

below rear dorsal fin. Large red eye. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found alone or in small groups 

over coral reefs. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Thick lips. Occasionally have 

pale bars on back. 

DESCRIPTION: Vary from silvery steel gray to dark brown. 

May lighten or darken dramatically. Anal fin rounded. Large 

canine teeth. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Solitary, deep-reef dweller. 

Inhabit rocky ledges and overhangs. The largest of the 

snappers, ranging to 125 pounds. Feeds on fishes and large 

crustaceans. Spawns during later summer. 

Silk Snapper DESCRIPTION: Pinkish red back and upper sides, shading to 

Lutjanus vivanus silvery on the sides and bottom. Fine undulating yellow lines. 

Back edge of caudal fin blackish. Anal fin pointed. 

Huachinango 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found offshore over rocky ledges 

ojo Amarillo in very deep water. Weights less than 5 pounds. 

(Mx) 

Wacamayo (Bz) 

Wenchman DESCRIPTION: Pinkish red on the back and upper sides, 

Pristopomoides shading to silvery on the sides and bottom with a bluish 

aquilonaris iridescence tinge in the edges of the scales. Scales are very 

sharp. 

Huachinango HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits deep reef. Feeds on small 

navaja fishes. 

(Mx)Navajuelo 

(Bz) 

Pink Snapper 

Big-eye Snapper 

Queen 

Snapper 

Etelis oculatus 


seda (Mx) 

Mojarra de agua 

honda (Bz) 

Black 

Snapper 

Apsilus dentatus 

Pargo Negro de 

mar Honda (Bz) 

Lamparita (Mx) 

DESCRIPTION: Red back and upper sides. Silvery on the 

lower sides. Body long and slender. Distinctly notched dorsal 

fin. Large eyes. Caudal fin deeply forked. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit deep reefs of the 

continental shelf to 450 feet. Less than 20 inches. Young 

suspend at mid-depths. 

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: 

DESCRIPTION: Short and pointed snout. Long pectoral fins 

reaching the level of anus. The back and upper side are violet or 

dark brown becoming lighter ventrally. Juveniles are mainly 

blue in color. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits mainly deep rocky 

bottom. Feeds on fishes and benthic organisms including 

cephalopods and tunicates. 

67


Blackfin DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Comma-shaped blotch at the base 

Snapper 

Lutjanus 

buccanella 


of the pectoral fins. Orange or bronze iris. 

DESCRIPTION: Red, with yellowish caudal, anal and pelvic 

fins. Anal fin rounded. 

HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit deep water between 80 to 

150 meters. Spawn during March and October. Feed on smaller 

aleta negra fishes. Considered oceanic. Cruise near surface, filtering 

(Mx) 

Bochix (Bz) 

plankton from water. Occasionally they pass along walls and 

over reefs. 

68

Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing - Mesoamerican ...

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