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5
DANIEL GRAY/SEOULEATS.COM
A MARRIAGE
OF OPPOSITES
Seoul’s Congdu restaurant serves
something old, something
new, something borrowed and
something ... green?
BY CINDY-LOU DALE
FOOD & DRINK
WHILE JUST ABOUT EVERY CITY on earth is a blend of old
and new, in Seoul this is such a defining feature that it’s
sometimes disconcerting. Here, the young and the old exist
on either side of a divide so deep—ranging across food, clothing,
housing and lifestyle choices—that the South Korean
capital seems to have two identities jockeying for dominance.
Yet cultural harmony may be taking root, starting where all
great compromises begin: the food.
Leading this gastronomic sea change is Congdu, a 16-table
concept restaurant in the Seodaemun Museum of Natural
History. The setting is appropriate, given owner Vivian
Han’s mission to reinvent traditional Korean cooking using
molecular gastronomy techniques and color themes. And
soybeans. Lots of soybeans.
Han expected that modernizing Korean cooking—which
has few ties to the French and Scandinavian schools that
have revolutionized high-end cuisine in the rest of the
world—would be a challenge. So in 2002 she hired chef
Eric Kim, a veteran of Michelin-starred restaurants
Aqua, Coi and Noma, then built him a kitchen
and let him have his way.
These days the Congdu kitchen is
overseen by chef Hwan Eui Lee, who
shares Kim’s aesthetic. “I combine
traditional Korean and French
molecular techniques,”
THINK THIN Congdu’s
beef tartare with caviar
marinated in 5-, 10- and
15-year-old soy sauces
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2012 35
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»5-Food & Drink
Spotlighting a specifi c location, ingredient or
theme, this section offers a gastronomic tour of
some of the world’s fi nest dishes and libations.
»6-Culture: The Month Ahead
The best in culture from wonderful locales
around the globe.
»7-Tech
Gadgets and trends for today’s tech-forward
mobile customer.
»8-How It’s Done
An amazing engineering feat, with a global slant.
7
6
In a distant, shadowy, bygone
era (the 1990s), the Four Pillars
of TV—ABC, NBC, CBS and
Fox—towered over the media
landscape. The awesome
power of these networks
seemed destined to endure
for a thousand years. But
then came the Barbarian
Hordes—otherwise known
as Alternative Distribution
Platforms—and with them
the Great Disruption.
culture
ARTS MEDIA EVENTS
Art Forms
Whimsical dance company
Pilobolus bends over
backward for its audience
THE
MONTH
AHEAD
Incorporating all manner of acrobatics,
props and shadow play, the high-energy
performance company Pilobolus has garnered
a broad following almost unheard of in
the world of modern dance. In addition to
performing at New York City’s Joyce Theater
every summer for 25-plus years and appearing
everywhere from Conan’s show to the Oscars,
the troupe recently collaborated with indie
rock band OK Go on the Grammy-nominated
music video for “All Is Not Lost.” This month,
Pilobolus is back at the Joyce with a lineup
that includes a collaborative piece with
avant-garde Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi
Cherkaoui and one with juggler and “physicist”
Michael Moschen in which the dancers
appear to have juggling balls for heads. “It’s the
kind of show that everybody wants to bring
their friends to,” says Joyce Theater executive
director Linda Shelton. “And to me, it’s not
summer unless Pilobolus is here.” july 16
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2012 49
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THE GAME PLAN
HOW TV NETWORKS ARE USING SPORTS PROGRAMMING
TO STAVE OFF EXTINCTION BY MARK MCCLUSKY
TECH
This story has been repeated so o� en in
recent years, it bears the patina of myth.
The agents of fragmentation—Netflix,
TiVo, Hulu, iTunes—have changed the
game. The time when families across
America sat down together to watch the
same shows is forever gone.
Except in sports, which abides by a different
set of rules.
“There’s no be� er place to be in entertainment
than sports,” ESPN president
John Skipper told an industry audience
recently. “They cannot be knocked off,
they cannot be replicated and they must
be watched live, which makes them
uniquely valuable among entertainment
programming.”
No kidding. More than 99 percent of
ESPN programs are viewed live (watching
a game later is an open invitation to the
spoilers of the world, as I can tell you from
bi� er experience). And here’s the kicker:
In order to watch a game live, you must
watch it on TV. It’s pre� y much the only
aspect of television that the network guys
have successfully locked down.
The networks aren’t alone in being
buff eted by the onslaught of disruptive
technologies. Pay TV too is on the wane,
with subscribers jumping ship at an alarming
rate. Between 2008 and 2011, according
to Convergence Consulting Group, an
estimated 2.65 million viewers abandoned
cable TV for Internet video providers.
I’d like to join these people,
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2012 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRIAN STAUFFER 71
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8
INNOVATION BUSINESS GADGETS
HOW IT’S DONE
CREATING DRINKING WATER
OUT OF THIN AIR
In addition to oppressive regimes and
roving criminal bands, dystopian movies
have long traded on our collective fear of
water scarcity. And with close to a fi � h of
the world’s population now living in areas
without enough water, that particular
specter becomes more of a reality every day.
Fortunately, French inventor Marc Parent is
on the job. A� er being inspired by a dripping
air conditioner, he built a turbine that could
capture potable water from wind, established
a company, Eole Water, and began
testing his prototypes amid some of
the ho� est, driest weather conditions
on earth. “We wanted it to
be a challenge,” says Thibault
Janin, a spokesman for Eole.
“In French, the saying is ‘If the
training is diffi cult, the war will
be easy.’” Here’s how they did it.
BY JACQUELINE DETWILER
1
1 Removing water from the air requires
electricity, which can be hard to come by
in areas without an established power
grid. The turbine takes care of that problem
by harnessing the energy of wind via
a shaft connected to a generator.
2 Once electricity is available, a machine
similar to a hair dryer pushes hot air across
hundreds of chilled pieces of stainless
steel alloy. The same principle that makes
your mirror steam up during a hot shower
causes water droplets to bead up on the
pieces of steel.
3 The collected water travels through a
fi ve-level treatment system, including a
UV fi lter, to make it safe to drink. Currently,
each turbine can produce up to 1,500 liters
of drinking water every day, but Eole hopes
each one will eventually provide between
20,000 and 25,000 liters a day, enough to
support entire cities.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2012 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST 65
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3
2
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