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CASE STUDY Uniqlo - Contagious Magazine

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<strong>CASE</strong> <strong>STUDY</strong><br />

<strong>Uniqlo</strong> /<br />

This article appeared in Contagous issue Sixten.<br />

<strong>Contagious</strong> is an intelligence resource for the global marketing community<br />

focusing on Non-Traditional Media and Emerging Technologies.<br />

www.contagiousmagazine.com<br />

For more information please contac Harry Gayner on<br />

+44 (0) 20 575 1822 or harry@contagiousmagazine.com


case study / uniqlo /<br />

FOUND IN TRANSLATION


70 / 71<br />

<strong>CASE</strong> <strong>STUDY</strong> / UNIQLO / FOUND IN<br />

TRANSLATION / THERE IS MORE TO<br />

UNIQLO’S BRAND STORY THAN COOL<br />

CELEBRITY COLLABORATIONS AND<br />

CASHMERE CUDDLES. A CLOSE BRUSH<br />

WITH BANKRUPTCY DEMONSTRATED THAT<br />

THE ONE SIZE FITS ALL BUSINESS MODEL<br />

THAT THRIVED IN A RECESSION-STRUCK<br />

JAPAN WOULD NEED TAILORING TO FIT<br />

THE FICKLE WESTERN RETAIL<br />

ENVIRONMENT. OPERATING WITH A<br />

FRESH AND FLEXIBLE NEW BRAND<br />

IMAGE SUPPORTED BY AWARD-WINNING<br />

INTEGRATED MARKETING CAMPAIGNS,<br />

THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE UNIQLO<br />

COMMUNITY IS NOW A THOROUGHLY<br />

MULTI-CULTURAL, MULTI-PLATFORM AFFAIR.<br />

I THINK WE’RE TURNING JAPANESE –<br />

I REALLY THINK SO… / BY WILL SANSOM /


case study / uniqlo /<br />

It could be a pair of pants. Perhaps it's a cashmere<br />

sweater, or maybe even a T-shirt sporting a mean n' moody<br />

Manga-inspired design. Whatever it is, chances are that<br />

you own at least one item of UNIQLO clothing. If not, it's<br />

only a matter of time until you do.<br />

Officially Japan's leading clothing retail chain, UNIQLO<br />

currently has 804 stores worldwide, the sales from which<br />

have encouraged parent company Fast Retailing Co. Ltd<br />

to reveal optimistic forecasts for the fiscal year of 2008<br />

of ¥585bn (€3.5bn) in net sales. Indeed, in June, Fast<br />

Retailing reported a five-year record high share price of<br />

¥9860 (€59). With this in mind, the chances of this<br />

financial target for 2008 being met, are almost as likely<br />

as that pair of pantone-perfect socks winding its way<br />

into your top drawer by the end of the year…<br />

However, like all the best success stories, the UNIQLO<br />

saga is not without its share of adversity. Initial attempts<br />

to replicate UNIQLO's quintessentially Japanese business<br />

model in the western retail environment did not go exactly<br />

to plan and after failed expansion in 2001, the brand<br />

was forced to retreat and regroup. It would seem that a<br />

different methodology would need to be adopted if what<br />

started out as a single unisex clothing store in Hiroshima<br />

was to be successfully rolled out on a global scale.<br />

From tiny warehouses<br />

The UNIQLO brand philosophy has always been about<br />

creating a distinctly utilitarian retail experience for<br />

consumers. Normal concerns held by the average<br />

shopper about style, quality and brand are dissolved by<br />

a simple assurance that whatever they buy, it will be<br />

great quality, low in cost and will look good with<br />

anything and everything they decide to wear it. What<br />

UNIQLO does therefore, is to provide the basic but<br />

premium ingredients of your wardrobe.<br />

The 'Unique Clothing Warehouse' was opened in 1984<br />

by the Yamaguchi-based Ogori Shoji, which, since 1949,<br />

had operated a chain of clothing stores called 'Men's<br />

Shop OS'. However, the simple difference of stocking<br />

unisex clothing was enough to ensure that the success<br />

of the new store far eclipsed that of the existing outlets.<br />

Ogori Shoji was changed to the somewhat catchier<br />

'Fast Retailing' and in turn, its rapidly expanding new<br />

chain became UNIQLO. By April 1994, over 100 stores<br />

had been opened across Japan and to meet this new<br />

demand, in 1997 UNIQLO adapted the SPA (Specialty<br />

Store of Private Label Apparel) model which had proved<br />

so successful for US retail giant Gap; instead of selling<br />

proprietary clothing, UNIQLO would now exclusively<br />

produce and carry its own garments. The out-sourcing<br />

of the manufacturing process to more affordable<br />

factories in China enabled the brand to capitalise on this<br />

business model, providing great value clothing that was<br />

snapped up by the Japanese public in the clutches of a<br />

recession.<br />

In 2001, the first overseas UNIQLO outlets were opened<br />

in Shanghai and shortly after, four more in London.<br />

However, poor execution of this expansion meant that<br />

the brand was met with indifference by the UK public.<br />

Simon Coble, UNIQLO UK, CEO, elaborates: 'We opened<br />

without a flagship store and expanded our network with<br />

a scattergun approach very quickly, before we stabilised<br />

operations. Opening stores in Romford and Knightsbridge<br />

wasn't, in hindsight, the best approach as the brand wasn't<br />

solidified and we failed to support our outer London stores<br />

with the marketing that they required.' Marino Donati,<br />

news editor for fashion publication Drapers, adds: 'In the<br />

UK, you've really got to shout about your identity in order<br />

to be heard. On the one hand, retailers such as Zara and<br />

Topshop were practising fast fashion with a quick<br />

turnover of lines, whilst on the other, retailers like Primark<br />

and Tesco had the budget end of the market cornered.<br />

Occupying a space somewhere in the middle, UNIQLO<br />

was something of a lost sheep.'<br />

However, what doesn't kill a brand only makes it stronger,<br />

and over the following three years concerted efforts were<br />

made to revive and repair the struggling business. In<br />

Japan, the solution was born out of a realisation that the<br />

standalone SPA business model referred only to<br />

production and sales. Accordingly, UNIQLO embarked<br />

upon a far more collaborative approach to its branding<br />

and advertising; rather than enlisting any one agency,<br />

key figures from different creative disciplines were<br />

recruited to collaborate on, and rejuvenate every aspect<br />

of the brand. Kashiwa Sato – executive creative director,<br />

Samurai, Tokyo, oversaw the process as well as taking<br />

care of graphic work such as the redesigned logo which<br />

would be used on store facades, marketing materials and<br />

the products themselves. Markus Kiersztan – creative<br />

director, MP Creative, NY handled in-store visuals and<br />

communication strategies, whilst digital supremo Yugo<br />

Nakamura of tha* ltd. Tokyo used his quirky Flash genius<br />

to revamp UNIQLO's online presence and enhance the<br />

digital element of the ensuing campaigns.<br />

In keeping with this new approach, changes were<br />

being subtlety implemented and experimented within<br />

the remaining UK stores – Simon Coble expands: 'We<br />

realised that we had a loyal following in the UK and there<br />

was a definite bubbling interest in the right demographics<br />

– so we had to be careful to keep the niche element and<br />

attraction to the brand that appealed to this audience,<br />

whilst at the same time retaining our "bread and butter"


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case study / uniqlo /<br />

customers in the suburban stores.' UNIQLO, it would<br />

seem, was once again ready for a stab at globalisation<br />

– combining what it had learnt from the UK with the fresh<br />

and most importantly, considered new brand identity.<br />

From Tokyo to NYC<br />

In November 2006, UNIQLO opened its global flagship<br />

store in the SoHo fashion district of Manhattan. Prior to<br />

the opening, several shipping containers were hoisted –<br />

via crane and flat bed truck – into selected locations<br />

around New York. Powered by an external generator,<br />

these temporary outlets contained neatly folded stacks<br />

of clothing and gave a glimpse of the kind of utilitarian<br />

perfection preached by the brand. However, once the<br />

store itself opened, it would become apparent that this<br />

sense of utility had been perfectly blended with a fresh,<br />

cosmopolitan feel – every bit in keeping with its highprofile<br />

location. Designed by renowned architect<br />

Masamichi Katayama of Wonderwall, Tokyo, the 36,000<br />

square foot space epitomises a carefully constructed<br />

juxtaposition between the brand's Japanese heritage<br />

and a contemporary, culturally inclusive retail experience.<br />

Scott Kraenzlein, account executive with MP Creative,<br />

emphasises the challenge encountered when striking a<br />

balance with the new store: 'UNIQLO has always been<br />

more about a service than a fashion brand; however,<br />

your average Manhattan shopper is not only extremely<br />

style conscious, but also has higher expectations of<br />

what a retail experience should encompass. Above all,<br />

simplicity is key and the clothes are given the space to<br />

speak for themselves, allowing customers to become<br />

acquainted with the brand at their own pace.'<br />

One device used to introduce the UNIQLO philosophy<br />

to New Yorkers, was the UNIQLO Paper, conceived by<br />

MP Creative. Distributed in-store and available online via<br />

a Flash-enabled application, the free magazine features<br />

interviews with designers, local celebrities and artists,<br />

illustrating the cultural relevance of the brand. 'We<br />

wanted to create a magazine that was more than the<br />

standard look-books you get at other stores,' explains<br />

Marcus Kiersztan, 'We wanted to align the brand with<br />

the art and design industry.'<br />

A large in-store gallery was used to exhibit a range of<br />

over 100 limited-edition, exclusive T-shirt designs from<br />

over 40 artists including Yayoi Kusama, Tezuka and<br />

Godzilla. This space was then used from Spring 2007<br />

to house products featuring in the first installment of the<br />

UT Campaign. Yet another example of a distinctly<br />

Japanese retail device being tailored for a global market,<br />

the project rode on the back of the phenomenal success<br />

of the exclusive UT Store in Harajuku, Tokyo. This shop,<br />

devised by Kashiwa Sato, sells limited-edition T-shirts<br />

packaged in plastic tubes on open shelves, providing a<br />

super-efficient self-service system that is more Japanese<br />

convenience store than fussy fashion retailer. The<br />

campaign was supported by print, poster and in-store<br />

advertising, featuring portraits by renowned fashion<br />

snapper Terry Richardson. In spring 2008, the project<br />

launched again on a global scale, this time with Brit Matt<br />

Irwin shooting 300 street-cast models in Tokyo, New<br />

York and London.<br />

The success of the new formula in NYC proved that<br />

UNIQLO was finally striking the right balance for the<br />

western retail environment. Kensuke Suwa, UNIQLO<br />

global marketing director, comments on the expansion:<br />

'Each new territory spells new challenges as we move<br />

towards becoming a truly global brand – be they internal<br />

or external factors. However, after the lessons we learnt<br />

back in 2001, we now approach each new market<br />

tentatively and look to gain a solid understanding prior to<br />

large scale-commitment.'<br />

London calling<br />

Clearly, whatever had originally been lost in translation<br />

was finally being found. One year on from the opening<br />

of the global flagship store in New York, the brand was<br />

once again ready to tackle its territorial Achilles heel and<br />

take on the UK fashion market right where it is distilled<br />

to its most competitive and fickle – the high street. And<br />

what better high street to take on, than Oxford Street in<br />

central London? With over 200m visitors and 300 retailers<br />

taking approximately £5.5bn (€7bn) every year, this is<br />

one of the busiest retail environments in the world.<br />

The same collaborative process that gave birth to the<br />

NY store was employed in the design and execution of<br />

not one, but two new stores which opened simultaneously<br />

at either end of Oxford Street in November 2007. The<br />

larger of the two premises (nearer the more up-market<br />

Mayfair area) is the official European UNIQLO flagship<br />

store, echoing in terms of interior design and architecture,<br />

many of the features found in the New York location.<br />

Four huge revolving mannequin boxes reach up to the<br />

first floor, displaying the current seasonal offerings and<br />

for the first time outside Japan, a dedicated UT 'future


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case study / uniqlo /<br />

convenience store' section has been created with the<br />

shelf-stacked 'T's in tubes' layout of the Harajuku shop.<br />

The re-birth of the brand in the UK was promoted not<br />

only by the 2008 incarnation of the UT T-shirt project,<br />

but also by a more cohesive version of the People<br />

campaign – first devised for the New York launch by<br />

Marcus Kiersztan of MP Creative, and Nicola Formichetti,<br />

creative director of Dazed & Confused. Focussing on<br />

local heroes and celebrities as brand advocates, the<br />

success of this egalitarian campaign relied heavily on it<br />

being adapted for each specific location. Therefore for<br />

London, home-grown British talent was featured such<br />

as eclectic rapper Dizzee Rascal, who also performed at<br />

the opening of the stores. Kensuke Suwa concludes:<br />

'When launching the London flagship store, the strap<br />

line "From Tokyo to London" reinforced the idea that the<br />

brand was Japanese, but by working with British talent<br />

such as Bobby Gillespie of Primal Scream, actress<br />

Samantha Morton and Georgia Jagger, we created a<br />

campaign specifically for London that would resonate<br />

with Londoners.'<br />

Building global communities online<br />

Considering the size and location of UNIQLO's flagship<br />

stores, one could be forgiven for presuming that<br />

globalising the brand has thus far been a strictly<br />

territorial, real-world affair. However, looking at the most<br />

successfully integrated of the brand's advertising and<br />

marketing campaigns, it soon becomes clear that<br />

encouraging consumers to interact with the brand in a<br />

digital environment has played just as big a part – if not<br />

bigger – in helping the UNIQLO community to expand<br />

and transcend cultural boundaries.<br />

Yugo Nakamura, as well as forming part of UNIQLO's<br />

Creative Committee, is creative director at tha* ltd. – the<br />

agency responsible for some of the brand's most<br />

innovative digital campaigns such as UNIQLO GRID and<br />

UT LOOP. 'With all of the UNIQLO online campaigns, the<br />

basic question is how to deepen and broaden the users'<br />

brand experience. The challenge is then to achieve this<br />

through encouraging user participation, by creating and<br />

visualising a space where users can actively interact<br />

with the campaign. This isn't to say that everything is<br />

dependent on the activity of the users; what is important,<br />

is to keep the balance between places where users can<br />

be passive and places where they can be active.'<br />

Designed to reflect how the brand is constantly evolving<br />

in the hands of the consumer, UNIQLO GRID allows<br />

users on a dedicated microsite to manipulate the UNIQLO<br />

logo by using the mouse pointer to click, drag, spin and<br />

multiply to their hearts' content. However, the digital<br />

canvas on which they play with the logo is shared by<br />

thousands of users across the world – making this a<br />

genuinely collaborative exercise. At the top of the page,<br />

it tells you exactly who (by nickname) is making which<br />

moves. At the time of writing, Mako in Japan was<br />

furiously multiplying in diagonals across the bottom of the<br />

screen…<br />

For a slightly trickier but ultimately more rewarding<br />

creative process, check out the UNIQLO UT LOOP – part<br />

of the UT T-shirts campaign. Originally running alongside<br />

a series of TV spots, this Flash-enabled site provides<br />

you with nine different UNIQLO representatives, each<br />

with their own sample noise, be it a shout, grunt or even<br />

a big ol' fashioned raspberry. You can then drag and<br />

drop the different characters, complete with noises, into<br />

sixteen different spaces, thereby creating your very own<br />

mini dub loop. Once you are happy with how it sounds,<br />

you can submit your loop to the website, where it will be


shuffled and played at random as part of the 'People's<br />

Loop'. There is even an easy 'Blog this' button which<br />

allows visitors to download and share either this<br />

collaborative loop or just their own, as a widget for<br />

embedding on blogs or external websites. Yugo<br />

Nakamura concludes: 'Rather than being at the centre of<br />

fashion trends, UNIQLO has a philosophy of providing<br />

the high quality components of fashion. Respectively,<br />

UNIQLO GRID and UT LOOP both encapsulate this<br />

idea of combining simple elements into a complex and<br />

freeform variety.'<br />

Clicks and clocks<br />

There is of course, a campaign masterminded by Projector,<br />

Tokyo which took the interactive and monstrously<br />

addictive flash site model to a whole new level in 2008.<br />

It has scooped thus far, the Innova Lotus Gold Award at<br />

ADFEST, 2 Gold Awards and the Grand Prix at the One<br />

Show Interactive, a Grand Clio for Interactive, a D&AD<br />

Black Pencil for Online Advertising as well as a Cyber<br />

Lions Grand Prix and the prestigious <strong>Contagious</strong>sponsored<br />

Titanium Lion award at Cannes 2008. Ladies<br />

and gentlemen, we give you the UNIQLOCK.<br />

Mark Tutssel, chief creative officer, Leo Burnett<br />

Worldwide, was the Cannes 2008 Titanium and<br />

Integrated jury president. He describes the impact which<br />

the UNIQLOCK had on the judges: 'A Titanium Lion is<br />

an idea that's so unique, pure and new it cannot be<br />

labelled in a conventional way. It breaks through traditional<br />

contagious 76 / 77<br />

award-category boundaries and creates something<br />

altogether better. Titanium is about finding tomorrow's<br />

ideas that reset the creative bar and move the industry<br />

forward. The UNIQLOCK was an idea that stopped the<br />

jury dead in its tracks. An idea that fused together<br />

everything that is new in our business: entertainment,<br />

utility and interactivity. After all, only with innovative and<br />

ground-breaking thinking can we adapt to the speed at<br />

which the world is changing. This is virtual, branded<br />

utility – pure Titanium.'<br />

The 2008 campaign is a development of a 2007<br />

initiative – an online clock which marks passing moments<br />

with 5-second clips of female dancers performing<br />

micro-routines clad in the new UNIQLO line of<br />

cashmere. Somewhere between branded entertainment<br />

and utility, this delightfully distracting microsite struck a<br />

chord with bored office workers everywhere; it racked<br />

up over 30m views in 195 countries – highly significant<br />

considering that the brand has stores in only a handful<br />

of these territories.<br />

Recognising the brand-building potential of the<br />

application, Projector set about making it bigger and<br />

better for 2008. As a result, it now operates 24/7 for<br />

365 days a year, with the dancers' clothes changing<br />

according to each season – polo shirts in spring and<br />

cashmere sweaters in the winter. It will also go to sleep<br />

at night, with sequences on the hour and an alarm clock<br />

function in case you're in the habit of keeping your<br />

laptop next to your bed. Perhaps most significantly<br />

however, a downloadable version of the UNIQLOCK is<br />

now available as a widget for embedding on blogs,<br />

iGoogle or Facebook profiles. By viewing WORLD.<br />

UNIQLOCK, users can link to all the embedded sites via<br />

a global map which lets you see at any given time,<br />

exactly how many people are watching the UNIQLOCK<br />

and in what country. This is perhaps the most literal<br />

realisation of the UNIQLO global community to date –<br />

proven by the fact that so far, over 27,000 widgets have<br />

been downloaded and the site itself has been viewed<br />

68m times in over 209 countries.<br />

'I had the intuition that an expression which perfectly<br />

synchronised bodily movements with sound, would be<br />

the most simple and pure way of representing<br />

UNIQLO's products. The concept of MUSIC X DANCE<br />

X CLOCK came from the "rhythm of a second" – dance


case study / uniqlo /<br />

to the rhythm of a second and music to the rhythm of a<br />

second – in the same way that a clock keeps time to the<br />

rhythm of a second. After Googling the name "UNIQLOCK"<br />

and finding zero results, I knew straight away that this<br />

tag would be perfect for spreading the experience<br />

across the web and uniting global bloggers,' says<br />

Koichiro Tanaka, creative director, Projector, Tokyo.<br />

Since the UNIQLOCK, Projector has continued to study<br />

the behavioural patterns of internet users – concentrating<br />

on that initial moment of uptake and how content is<br />

absorbed. As a result, its latest campaign for UNIQLO's<br />

line of Dry Wear focuses on the way in which neurons<br />

fire in the human brain when we observe the actions of<br />

another human on screen. More abstract than the<br />

UNIQLOCK, DRY IN MOTION displays a grid of graceful<br />

gymnasts, which replicates or changes in size every five<br />

seconds. Each figure is contained within their own<br />

sphere which displays around its rim, the passing<br />

seconds in different increments. There is also a counter<br />

in the top corner of the screen showing 'your view time'<br />

– a reminder of just how distracting this kind of website<br />

can be. Koichiro Tanaka describes the thinking behind<br />

its conception: 'I am interested in the mirror neuron which<br />

copies the behaviour of another human as if the observer<br />

itself were acting. When we see completely controlled<br />

body movement, our feelings move and as a result, we<br />

want to see it more. In other words, emotion is made by<br />

body motion. I feel that it is important to visualise "Time<br />

in Motion" – another method of representing the user's<br />

behaviour in a different way from the UNIQLOCK which<br />

visualises the expansion of the users.'<br />

Turning Japanese<br />

UNIQLO aims to triple its turnover in the next four years<br />

with continued expansion into Singapore in 2009 along<br />

with the opening of a new European flagship store in<br />

Paris. The success of the US and UK flagship stores has<br />

proved that the brand is now capable of adapting to<br />

cater for each new location – operating with a duality<br />

which allows it to sell simultaneously in the Japanese<br />

suburbs and the centre of Manhattan. However, South<br />

America, India and Australasia present whole new<br />

cultural and economic challenges, so until stores are<br />

prospering in these locations, discussions of UNIQLO<br />

becoming the world's biggest retail brand will have to be<br />

put on hold. One thing is for sure though – thanks to the<br />

collaborative efforts of the Creative Committee and<br />

campaigns such as the UNIQLOCK, the brand has set<br />

in place a marketing strategy which is capable of using<br />

every second of every day to build brand awareness<br />

within a truly global community. The rest, as they say, is<br />

just bricks and mortar.


ANALYST’S INSIGHT /<br />

By Neil Saunders / consulting director /<br />

Verdict Research /<br />

<strong>Uniqlo</strong> is a distinct brand with a wide competitive set<br />

including Gap and Primark at the basics end and Zara<br />

at a more premium level. It operates in a space which is<br />

not only crowded in terms of competing retailers, but<br />

also in the context of marketing messages trying to<br />

target similar demographics. As a result, <strong>Uniqlo</strong> has to<br />

work very hard to get its message across. Marketing<br />

innovations like the <strong>Uniqlo</strong>ck and the Loop are useful in<br />

helping to build communities and raise the presence of<br />

the <strong>Uniqlo</strong> brand.<br />

It's a fair aspiration for <strong>Uniqlo</strong> to want to be the world's<br />

biggest retail brand, but it has a long way to go before<br />

meeting this goal. Companies like Inditex, the parent<br />

company of Zara, are far more advanced in terms of<br />

creating a sustainable and profitable global reach.<br />

However, there is an opportunity for <strong>Uniqlo</strong> to become<br />

more visible and relevant. In-store, presentation is clean<br />

and visually compelling with lots of colour, while block<br />

merchandising makes the offer look significant and<br />

attractive to consumers. <strong>Uniqlo</strong>'s large flagship stores in<br />

capitals like London and New York give the brand a<br />

toehold in countries where it is unlikely to work as well<br />

in more provincial towns and cities. In an urban context<br />

with high footfall and diversity, almost anything can be<br />

credible, but in retail terms, cities like London are an<br />

exception. <strong>Uniqlo</strong>'s plan to focus on expansion in Asia,<br />

bringing it closer to its home country, is likely to be a<br />

more successful strategy.<br />

www.verdict.co.uk<br />

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CHALLENGE / INITIAL ATTEMPTS TO REPLICATE<br />

THE QUINTESSENTIALLY JAPANESE, UTILITARIAN<br />

BUSINESS MODEL IN WESTERN TERRITORIES<br />

PROVED UNSUCCESSFUL. THE RAPID EXPANSION<br />

COMBINED WITH A LACK OF FLAGSHIP STORES<br />

AND SUFFICIENT MARKETING SUPPORT MEANT<br />

THAT THE BRAND WAS LEFT OUT IN THE COLD BY<br />

THE UK MARKET. CLOSE TO BANKRUPTCY, A NEW<br />

APPROACH WAS REQUIRED THAT WOULD HELP<br />

UNIQLO CARVE ITS OWN NICHE IN THE MOST<br />

COMPETITIVE RETAIL ENVIRONMENTS IN THE UK AND<br />

THE US, STARTING THE SUCCESSFUL GLOBALISATION<br />

OF THE BRAND ANEW /<br />

SOLUTION / INSTEAD OF ENLISTING THE SERVICES<br />

OF ONLY ONE AGENCY, A COMMITTEE WAS<br />

DEVELOPED UTILISING THE BEST CREATIVE MINDS<br />

FROM EACH DISCIPLINE. A FRESH, COSMOPOLITAN<br />

BRAND IDENTITY WAS MASTERMINDED WHICH<br />

WOULD DEFINE THE DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE<br />

OF NEW FLAGSHIP STORES IN NYC AND LONDON,<br />

AS WELL AS THE MARKETING AND ADVERTISING<br />

WHICH SUPPORTED THEIR PRESENCE. IN ADDITION<br />

TO THE REAL WORLD EXPANSION OF THE BRAND,<br />

INTEGRATED MARKETING CAMPAIGNS WERE<br />

DEVELOPED TO BUILD A GLOBAL COMMUNITY<br />

ONLINE. CAMPAIGNS SUCH AS THE UNIQLOCK<br />

USED THE BLOGOSHERE AS A BUZZ-BUILDING<br />

PLATFORM – COMBINING A SENSE OF FUN,<br />

FASHION AND UTILITY IN A MICROCOSM OF THE<br />

BRAND ITSELF /<br />

RESULTS / THE FLAGSHIP STORES IN NYC AND<br />

LONDON ARE EXTREMELY SUCCESSFUL, PROVING<br />

THAT THE NEW BRAND IDENTITY NOT ONLY<br />

WORKS, BUT CAN BE ADAPTED FOR NEW<br />

TERRITORIES. A NEW EUROPEAN FLAGSHIP IN<br />

PARIS IS DUE TO OPEN IN 2009 ALONG WITH<br />

STORES IN SINGAPORE. THE UNIQLOCK, AS WELL<br />

AS SCOOPING NUMEROUS AWARDS HAS SO FAR<br />

BEEN SEEN OVER 68M TIMES BY PEOPLE IN 209<br />

COUNTRIES. FURTHER PROOF THAT THE UNIQLO<br />

GLOBAL COMMUNITY IS EXPANDING, IS EVIDENT IN<br />

PARENT COMPANY FAST RETAILING'S PROFIT<br />

FIGURES. PREDICTIONS FOR FISCAL 2008 ARE<br />

¥585BN (€3.5BN) IN NET SALES AND IN JUNE IT<br />

REPORTED A FIVE-YEAR RECORD HIGH SHARE<br />

PRICE OF ¥9860 (€59). UNIQLO FOUNDER TADASHI<br />

YANAI IS AIMING TO MAKE UNIQLO THE WORLD'S<br />

BIGGEST RETAIL BRAND /


and map / uniqlo /<br />

00<br />

UQ<br />

01<br />

RE-<br />

THINK<br />

01<br />

COLLA-<br />

BORATE<br />

UQ<br />

UNIQLO / BRAND MAP /<br />

01<br />

804 STORES<br />

01<br />

UNI-<br />

SEX<br />

01<br />

01 / RECRUIT & REJUVENATE /<br />

REJUVENATE<br />

<strong>Uniqlo</strong> is Japan's leading unisex clothing<br />

chain, with 804 stores and a 2008 net<br />

sales forecast of ¥585bn (€3.5bn).<br />

Shares in its parent, Fast Retailing reported<br />

a five-year record high of ¥12,110 (€71.7)<br />

in July.<br />

This scenario certainly wasn't predicted<br />

after a failed expansion into the UK in<br />

2001. <strong>Uniqlo</strong> had high expectations of its<br />

European launch, but was met with<br />

consumer indifference – largely because<br />

of a 'scattergun' approach to retail<br />

locations, the lack of a flagship store<br />

and minimal marketing activity in the key<br />

territory of London. This retreat forced<br />

the brand into a rethink, embarking<br />

upon a more collaborative approach to<br />

its identity and marketing that has since<br />

sparked a global success story. Rather<br />

than using a single agency, key figures<br />

(Kashiwa Sato, Markus Kiersztan¸ Yugo<br />

Nakamura, etc) from numerous creative<br />

disciplines, were recruited to rejuvenate<br />

every aspect of the <strong>Uniqlo</strong> brand, from<br />

store design to its digital presence.<br />

02<br />

SERVICE-<br />

DRIVEN<br />

02<br />

IN-STORE<br />

GALLERY<br />

02<br />

NYC<br />

02<br />

BASIC<br />

02<br />

CONTAINERS<br />

The UNIQLO brand philosophy has always<br />

been about creating a distinctly utilitarian,<br />

service-driven retail experience to reflect<br />

the basic prices but premium product<br />

quality. Prior to the 2006 opening of its<br />

global flagship store in Manhattan's fashion<br />

district, several shipping containers were<br />

hoisted into selected locations around<br />

NYC to serve as temporary outlets – the<br />

neatly folded stacks of clothing promoting<br />

the utilitarian perfection preached by<br />

the brand. Once the real store opened,<br />

the 36,000 square foot space showed a<br />

deliberate juxtaposition between the<br />

brand's Japanese heritage and a<br />

contemporary, culturally inclusive retail<br />

experience.<br />

After the lessons learned in London, this<br />

strategy shows that UNIQLO now<br />

approaches each new market tentatively<br />

and looks to gain a solid understanding<br />

prior to large scale-commitment. With<br />

plans already in place for Paris and<br />

Singapore, the company aims to triple<br />

its turnover in the next four years.<br />

03<br />

UNIQLO<br />

PAPER<br />

02 / UTILITARIAN & UNIQUE / 03 / PAPER & PLASTIC /<br />

03<br />

UT<br />

03<br />

PLASTIC<br />

TUBES<br />

02<br />

MP<br />

CREATIVE<br />

03<br />

STREET-<br />

CAST<br />

Aligning the brand with the art and design<br />

industry, the UNIQLO Paper is a free<br />

in-store and online magazine conceived<br />

by MP Creative. 'More than a look-book',<br />

it features interviews with designers,<br />

local celebrities and artists to emphasise<br />

the brand's cultural relevance.<br />

An in-store gallery exhibited a range of<br />

100 limited-edition T-shirt designs from<br />

40 artists including Yayoi Kusama, Tezuka<br />

and Godzilla. This space was later used<br />

to house the first foreign installment of<br />

the brand's UT Campaign. Based on the<br />

successful UT Store in Tokyo this distinctly<br />

Japanese retail device sells limited-edition<br />

T's packaged in plastic tubes, providing<br />

a self-service system that is more<br />

convenience store than fussy fashion<br />

retailer. The campaign was supported by<br />

print, poster and in-store ads, featuring<br />

portraits by Terry Richardson. In spring<br />

2008, the project launched on a global<br />

scale with Matt Irwin shooting 300 streetcast<br />

models in Tokyo, NY and London.


04<br />

OXFORD<br />

STREET<br />

04<br />

HEROES<br />

04<br />

HOME<br />

GROWN<br />

04<br />

PEOPLE<br />

The re-birth of the brand in London's<br />

Oxford Street (200m annual visitors)<br />

was promoted by the 2008 incarnation of<br />

the UT T-shirt project, but also by a more<br />

cohesive version of the People campaign<br />

- first devised for the New York launch by<br />

Marcus Kiersztan of MP Creative, and<br />

Nicola Formichetti, creative director of<br />

Dazed & Confused. Focussing on local<br />

heroes and celebrities as brand advocates,<br />

the success of this egalitarian campaign<br />

relied heavily on it being adapted for each<br />

specific location. Therefore for London,<br />

home-grown British talent was featured<br />

such as eclectic rapper Dizzee Rascal,<br />

who also performed at the opening of the<br />

stores. The strap line 'From Tokyo to<br />

London' reinforced the idea that the brand<br />

was Japanese, but by working with British<br />

talent such as Bobby Gillespie of Primal<br />

Scream, actress Samantha Morton and<br />

Georgia Jagger, <strong>Uniqlo</strong> created a campaign<br />

for London that would resonate with<br />

Londoners.<br />

05<br />

INTERACT<br />

05<br />

EMBED<br />

05<br />

GRID<br />

Encouraging consumers to interact with<br />

the brand and participate with each<br />

other inside the digital environment has<br />

played a big role in helping the UNIQLO<br />

business expand by transcending cultural<br />

boundaries.<br />

Designed to reflect how the brand is<br />

constantly evolving in the hands of the<br />

consumer, the UNIQLO GRID microsite<br />

(designed by Yugo Nakamura's tha* ltd)<br />

allows users to manipulate the UNIQLO<br />

logo. This digital canvas is shared by<br />

thousands of other users across the<br />

world – making it a genuinely collaborative<br />

exercise. The UT LOOP is a flash-enabled<br />

site providing visitors with nine different<br />

UNIQLO representatives. Each comes<br />

with their own sample noise (shout, grunt,<br />

raspberry, etc), thus creating personalised<br />

mini dub loops which people can submit<br />

to the main site to be played at random<br />

as part of the 'People's Loop'. A 'Blog<br />

This' widget allows visitors to share and<br />

embed this collaborative device.<br />

06<br />

209<br />

COUNTRIES<br />

06<br />

68M<br />

04 / LONDON & LOCAL / 05 / LOGOS & LOOPS / 06 / CLICKS & CLOCKS /<br />

05<br />

THA*LTD<br />

05<br />

BLOG<br />

THIS<br />

05<br />

LOOP<br />

06<br />

contagious<br />

PROJECTOR<br />

UQ<br />

UNIQ<br />

LOCK<br />

06<br />

DRY IN<br />

MOTION<br />

80 / 81<br />

A monstrously addictive flash site<br />

masterminded by Projector, Tokyo scooped<br />

a coveted D&AD Black Pencil and both<br />

the Cyber Grand Prix and Titanium Lion<br />

at Cannes 2008. UNIQLOCK is an online<br />

clock that fuses entertainment, utility<br />

and interactivity. Operating 24/7, it<br />

marks passing moments with 5-second<br />

clips of female dancers clad in UNIQLO<br />

clothes that change according to the<br />

season. A downloadable UNIQLOCK is<br />

available as a widget for embedding on<br />

blogs, iGoogle or social networking<br />

profiles. Users can link to these embedded<br />

sites via a global map which details<br />

exactly how many people are watching<br />

UNIQLOCK worldwide. The site has been<br />

viewed 68m times in 209 countries –<br />

highly significant considering that the<br />

brand has stores in only a handful of<br />

territories.<br />

Projector's latest campaign, DRY IN<br />

MOTION, features gymnasts and is<br />

inspired by the way neurons fire in the<br />

brain when observing the actions of<br />

another human on screen.

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