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1 CAST BULLETS FOR BEGINNER AND EXPERT SECOND ... - Home

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To avoid this problem, I segregate and mark cartridge cases used for light loads, and use<br />

them only for light loads.<br />

Note that cartridges that headspace on the rim (45/70, 25/20) or the belt (300 H&H, 7MM<br />

Rem. Mag.) will not develop excess headspace.<br />

Excess pressure loads<br />

There are numerous ways to cause excess pressure and perhaps damage the gun and / or<br />

shooter. Almost all of them can be overcome by the simple process of avoiding maximum<br />

charges, especially when you are first developing a load. ALWAYS start with the minimum<br />

suggested powder charge. This will give you a safety margin in case one of the following factors<br />

could be in play to cause you problems.<br />

High pressure loads are a snare and a delusion. They produce very little more velocity,<br />

and they stress your gun badly while reducing your safety margin to a razor’s edge. If you really<br />

need more power than your rifle will provide with moderate loads, the answer is not more<br />

powder in the case. The answer is a new rifle chambered for a bigger case that will burn more<br />

powder safely.<br />

The first way to produce excessive pressures is to use more powder than is safe for your<br />

cartridge and bullet. To avoid this, use good reloading handbooks, start with the minimum<br />

recommended loads and never exceed the maximum charges listed. ALWAYS weigh charges, at<br />

least initially to be sure your volumetric measure is set right, and afterwards to be sure it didn’t<br />

change somewhere along the way.<br />

Second is to accidentally use the wrong powder. To avoid this, never load when you're<br />

tired or upset. Never load when you're in a hurry, never load without checking in a written<br />

reference. Never load if something ‘feels wrong’. Check your personal logbook or a reloading<br />

manual. Nobody has a perfectly reliable memory, and I've blown up one gun in over forty years<br />

of shooting; because I was in a hurry, because I didn't check a written reference, and most sadly,<br />

because I didn't stop even when I became suspicious of the load. I don't ever want to do it again.<br />

(Ken Mollohan, editor: ME TOO! And I have the scars to prove it.)<br />

Third is to use the wrong bullet. It’s possible to load, chamber and fire charges with a<br />

200g bullet that were maximum for a 100g bullet. It’s also possible - at least with some guns - to<br />

load an oversized bullet. Examples might be 0.312 or 0.323 bullets in a 0.308 bore rifle that<br />

happens to have a larger than usual chamber neck. Oversized or overweight bullets will cause<br />

serious pressure escalations. Even changing the TYPE of bullet in a load can result in sharp<br />

changes in the pressures developed. Hard, heavy copper jackets will produce higher pressures<br />

than thinner, softer jackets. And the jacketless cast bullet will produce the lowest pressures of<br />

all, all else being equal.<br />

Fourth is to leave your loads in the hot sun for a while. This can easily elevate pressures<br />

into the proof load range. In fact, British proof houses used to - and may still - use standard<br />

factory rounds that have been heated before loading to proof foreign arms for which they have no<br />

conventional proof load.<br />

Fifth is to change the type of primer in a load that is already close to maximum. A hotter<br />

primer will make the powder burn faster, and develop higher pressures. . If ANY component of<br />

a max or near max load is changed, the prudent loader will back off the powder charge at least<br />

10% and work back up slowly.<br />

Sixth is to change the seating depth of your bullet so that it is jammed into the rifling.<br />

While sometimes useful, this practice should not be added to a hot load without changes to<br />

15

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