For The Love Of Colour - TiGi

hair
elasticity
hair science hair science
Elasticity is the hair’s ability to stretch and return
to its original form. When the hair is wet, it should
stretch up to 40% of its length and retract
(like a new elastic band).
For hair that does not retract (like an old, worn
elastic band), the condition is poor and chemical
services are not recommended. Poor elasticity
is a result of internal damage to the cortex and, like
porous hair, it is nearly always uneven according to
age and the abuse the hair has received. Causes
can be electrical appliance damage, excessive sun
exposure, overuse of processing chemicals, or
misuse of chemicals for a particular hair type.
You can naturally have fragile hair; however, as a
rule, hair will become porous before having poor
elasticity. Poor elasticity in hair means that the
keratin (natural protein) has been damaged or
weakened resulting in the hair losing its integrity.
HOW TO TEST
Take one single strand of hair from the area
that is most affected. Wet the single strand to
allow you to test the hair in its natural state.
Keeping the base of the thumbs together,
hold the hair between the thumb and the
index finger and gently pull the hair, watching
to see how much it retracts.
You can describe the hair as having good,
moderately sensitised, or highly sensitised
elasticity. When the hair is anything more than
moderately sensitised, extra warmth (0/66,
0/44, 0/33 from TIGI copyright©olour mix
master) may need to be incorporated within
the refreshing technique. If the hair is highly
sensitised, no chemical services should be
recommended.
Hair’s elasticity will change from time to time.
Porous hair usually loses its elasticity faster than
non-porous hair. This may be temporary due to
humidity and temperature, the type of shampoo
used, the amount of hair spray/gels used, and
the drying action of wind and sun.
Signs of poor elasticity
When the hair is wet, it feels spongy, limp, tangles,
and stretches excessively without returning to its
normal position. The most common cause of this
serious condition is chemical services such as
colour, highlighting, perming, or straightening either
being given improperly or repeated too often, or
both. Elasticity damage can also be caused by
brushing wet hair, stretching it beyond its limit.
It is important to assess the elasticity or
sensitivity before colouring every client. This will
help to determine the correct colour product,
activator strength, application, and refreshing
technique required to help maintain condition,
colour longevity, and results.
hair
condition
The condition is the overall state and cosmetic
feel of the hair. This describes how the hair feels
with a blow dry and after finishing product has
been applied. This will not give a true reading
of the internal structure of the hair, which is
needed prior to a chemical service.