For The Love Of Colour - TiGi

structure of
hair globally
There are three main types or
classifications of hair that are
genetically determined and can
be geographically identified even
in today’s world. The three hair
types are visually distinct and
while they have similarities in
structure, it is their differences
that can be important to the
colourist.
As a hairdresser, it is useful to
identify the three main hair types
and understand the significant
differences. These are termed
Caucasian hair, Asian/Hispanic
hair, and Afro hair. All ethnicities
will be categorised into one
of these three main groups.
hair science
asian/hispanic
hair
Asian and Hispanic hair is normally thought of
as strong, very straight, and naturally black to
dark brown. It originates genetically from the
geographical region known as Asia, which includes
China, Japan, and India. For the Hispanic hair type,
the geographical regions are Colombia, Argentina,
Brazil, and Cuba, to name some. The classic Asian
and Hispanic head of hair is dark, straight, smooth,
and shiny, but in fact, this category also includes
different, almost frizzy uneven textures, which can
be difficult to manage. This has led to the growing
popularity of chemical hair straightening treatments
for this hair type.
When working on Asian or Hispanic hair, it is
important not only to take into consideration
the natural level but also the texture of the hair.
Asian and Hispanic hair can have a cuticle which
is made up of 10 or more layers. When comparing
the cuticle to Caucasian hair, the cuticle is thicker
and can be tightly packed, making the hair more
resistant to colouring. It is therefore essential to
identify the level of lift and the target shade the
client is expecting. Taking this into consideration,
the choice of activator strength may be slightly
higher, the product type may differ from a demipermanent
to a permanent, or a high lift tint may
be more suitable than permanent etc.
Processing time should always be checked before
the removal of any colouring service, but especially
on thicker or resistant hair types; this will allow the
colourist to extend the processing time if required.