entertainment - Express

Southwestern import
Del Frisco’s Grille is
ambitious but uneven
The space left dark by Les Halles
has finally been filled, and its
replacement from Dallas can’t be
faulted for aiming to please. Never
have there been fewer than four
smiling faces to welcome me to Del
Frisco’s Grille, where no fewer than
three managers introduced themselves
to me during recent meals.
If you need validation, check
out the sprawl.
Be careful ordering,
though. The surf-and-turf
import from the Lone
Star State manages to
touch on a lot of wishes
without mastering many.
Oysters on the half shell
are so scrawny and tired, we
leave half of them on their bed of
ice. A mash of black-eyed peas with
a fan of tasteless crackers and vinegar-soaked
vegetables goes back
The tangy-sweet flavor of Del Frisco’s
Grille’s six-layer lemon cake rings true.
to the kitchen largely untouched.
Why both starters are billed on
the menu as “Food to Fight Over”
eludes me.
“Two-Fisted Eats”
include ordinary crab
sliders and a dry lamb
burger, while the supposedly
“prime” New York
strip steak confounds us
with its lack of flavor.
Rob Klink, the former chef
at Oceanaire Seafood Room, is
off to a choppy start. His cause is
unaided by servers who relentless-
dining |
The open kitchen area is constantly
bustling at Del Frisco’s Grille, a modern
American restaurant downtown.
ly push designer water and appetizers
and appear to be mouthing
lines from a corporate script.
More to my liking: tacos with
tuna and citrusy mayo, and a golden
schnitzel pounded from chicken.
The latter, an entree with increasing
chef appeal, comes with a lemon-butter
sauce and a clutch of broad
noodles that would improve with a
bit more time in hot water. Among
the “Happy Endings” is a true-tasting
six-layer lemon cake.
Dominating the center of the
room, set off with burnt-orange
chairs and awful art, is a triangular
bar engulfed at night with
suits (and the skirts they no doubt
hope to meet). For the best people-watching,
ask for a table on
the raised floor near the exposed
kitchen; for more privacy, request
the dining room walled in wine.
TOM SIETSEMA (THE WASHINGTON POST)
1201 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-
450-4686, Delfriscosgrille.com.
(Federal Triangle)
August gets a bad reputation for its heat and humidity, but
Bourbon Steak (2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-944-2026, Bourbonsteakdc.com)
revels in this time of year. Its Dog Days of Summer special — a hot dog and a pint of
beer for $9 during regular dining hours at the bar and lounge — returns through Aug.
30. The dogs (choice of a half-smoke or corn dog) are supplied by Red Apron Butchery,
while the beer comes from Port City Brewing Company. (EXPRESS)
KATHERINE FREY PHOTOS/TWP
The Juicy Details
Even though fruits are obvious
choices as dessert ingredients, they
can work in savory foods, too. That’s
why I was excited to try the six-course
peach-tasting dinner menu ($38)
that’s available at Station 4 (1101 4th
St. SW, 202-488-0987) all month, in
honor of National Peach Month.
As someone who
loves stone fruits,
I was hoping to be
blown away by new,
offbeat uses of peaches.
I was let down.
Station 4’s
peach-topped
oysters
In some cases, as
with the oysters in an
onion-peach mignon-
ette, the fruit’s flavor was simply outsung
by stronger tastes (in this case,
vinegar and brine). In other instances,
the peach seemed missing; the entree,
Kurobuta pork tenderloin, had only a
measly dab of peach chutney.
Peach lovers might do better to
order their plates a la carte ($10 appetizers,
$20 entrees) and focus on those
that make the most of the fruit. I’d pick
the foie gras with roasted peaches,
which also happens to be one of chef
Orlando Amaro’s favorites. It’s a generous
triangle of seared foie gras with
a golden brown exterior, served alongside
a similarly sized slice of peach in
warm, syrupy truffle jus.
All I could think as I ate the rich,
fatty liver was, “This tastes like winter.”
On the other hand, the saccharine
peach screamed summer. Eaten in the
same bite, this odd couple amounted
to a guilty pleasure (too many calories,
too much sugar and intensely flavorful).
Has the peach finally found the
right dinner companion?
Read Katie’s column every other week
here and at Expressnightout.com.
THURSDAY | 08.09.2012 | EXPRESS | E27
KATIE ABERBACH/EXPRESS
3701 Mount Vernon Ave.
Alexandria, VA • 703-549-7500
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12 NORMAN CONNORS &
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18 KIM WATERS
21 STEVE EARLE & THE DUKES The
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23 SUMMER STORM feat.
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24 National Community Church presents
THE GOD ANTHOLOGY
25 PAUL & STORM MIKE
PHIRMAN
30 KENNY LATTIMORE
31 MANHATTAN TRANSFER
Sept 1&2 MAYSA
7 All Standing in the , Doors 6 pm
ENTER THE HAGGIS & YOUNG DUBLINERS
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8 MELISSA FERRICK ASTRA VIA