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CHAPTER XIX<br />

BABYLON<br />

HP*HE eastern gate of heaven was unbarred;<br />

JL Shamas, the Sun-god of Ba<strong>by</strong>lonia, flamed forth<br />

and stepped upon the Mount of Sunrise at the edge<br />

of the world. As he had poured the light of heaven<br />

upon the luxuriant gardens and fertile cornlands of<br />

the Ba<strong>by</strong>lonians, so was he pouring it upon the same<br />

spot, now an arid and <strong>desert</strong>ed wilderness. We were<br />

crossing it on our way <strong>to</strong> visit Ba<strong>by</strong>lon. It was pitch<br />

dark when we had left Baghdad in the procession of<br />

covered arabas which conveyed pilgrims <strong>to</strong> Kerbela<br />

and merchants <strong>to</strong> Hillah. We had been roused at<br />

2 a.m., and had threaded our way silently through the<br />

sleeping streets <strong>by</strong> the light of a dim lantern. Huddled<br />

human forms lay about in angles and on doorsteps ;<br />

and at every moment we stumbled over the out<br />

stretched limbs of a yellow dog. We crossed the<br />

Tigris in one of the round native boats, and landed<br />

within a few minutes' walk of the khan from where the<br />

arabas started. We had an araba <strong>to</strong> ourselves ; an<br />

oblong wooden box on four wheels, with a light<br />

canvas <strong>to</strong>p and canvas sides that could be rolled up<br />

or let down at pleasure ; a narrow wooden plank, with<br />

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