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port henderson : past & present - Royal Commission on the Ancient ...

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The cave may have been used as a look-out point but <strong>the</strong>re is no evidence to sup<str<strong>on</strong>g>port</str<strong>on</strong>g> this. Below this<br />

<strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> north side of Opinan is a small rock called Cnoc nan Carrachan which means ‘knoll of <strong>the</strong> wild<br />

roots’ (OSR).<br />

Dix<strong>on</strong> described this headland between Port Henders<strong>on</strong> and its neighbour Opinan where <strong>the</strong>re<br />

was <strong>the</strong> Uamh (said to be derived from a small hollow <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> hill which<br />

faced <strong>the</strong> sea) nam Freicedeadain. This was believed to be <strong>the</strong> site of<br />

<strong>the</strong> last fortress in Gairloch held by <strong>the</strong> M’Leods, of <strong>the</strong> clan Siol<br />

Torquil, who may have come to Gairloch in <strong>the</strong> times of <strong>the</strong> Norse<br />

Vikings from whom it was said <strong>the</strong>y were descended. This dun is an<br />

apparently natural large mound with traces of a l<strong>on</strong>g straight bank <strong>on</strong> its<br />

The Dun<br />

top. In around 1569 <strong>the</strong> M’Leods were driven from this dun, <strong>the</strong>ir last<br />

str<strong>on</strong>ghold. For more informati<strong>on</strong> about <strong>the</strong> MacLeods of Gairloch see<br />

Peoples & Settlement in North-West Ross edited by John Baldwin, page 205.<br />

There appears to be no evidence of round houses in <strong>the</strong> township although it is said that <strong>the</strong>re is a<br />

broch or round house between Port Henders<strong>on</strong> and Opinan. There is no sign of this and it is possible<br />

that this might refer to <strong>the</strong> dun itself.<br />

‘People from Norway?’<br />

When drainage ditches were made <strong>on</strong> croft 7 a burnt remnant of a pine tree was found, <strong>on</strong>e metre<br />

below <strong>the</strong> surface of <strong>the</strong> ground. This was a short length of <strong>the</strong> trunk and some larger roots. A story is<br />

told locally that ‘people from Norway’ burnt <strong>the</strong> forest which existed at that time and that <strong>the</strong> burning<br />

of trees was a comm<strong>on</strong> Norse punishment. It is queried whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> remains of this pine tree might<br />

have any c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong> to this burnt piece of wood. (Above <strong>the</strong> stump was evidence of birch trees and it is<br />

known that birch trees regenerated quickly when <strong>the</strong> sheep populati<strong>on</strong> dropped). Norsemen c<strong>on</strong>quered<br />

<strong>the</strong> Scottish islands and <strong>the</strong>n parts of <strong>the</strong> west coast. In 1263 <strong>the</strong> King of Norway, King Haak<strong>on</strong> VI,<br />

undertook an expediti<strong>on</strong> to <strong>the</strong> west of Scotland because of a dispute with Alexander III of Scotland<br />

who had c<strong>on</strong>quered <strong>the</strong> Hebrides in <strong>the</strong> previous year. Haak<strong>on</strong> retook <strong>the</strong> islands and also came to <strong>the</strong><br />

west coast of <strong>the</strong> mainland. He died at Kirkwall in 1263. (More details can be found in Highlanders A<br />

History of <strong>the</strong> Gaels by John MacLeod).<br />

Local superstiti<strong>on</strong>s and tales<br />

There were many superstiti<strong>on</strong>s in <strong>the</strong> wide Gairloch area and it was pointed out by Dix<strong>on</strong> that <strong>the</strong><br />

surrounding countryside and coastline lent <strong>the</strong>mselves to many suggesti<strong>on</strong>s of <strong>the</strong> supernatural.<br />

Swirling mists, rushing water and springs, twisted and gnarled trees, dark caves, deep lochs, <strong>the</strong><br />

moaning and howling winds, islands and winter where <strong>the</strong>re was more darkness than light all added to<br />

man’s belief in things of a superstitious nature.<br />

12

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