CheLondon - eatdrink Magazine

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario FREE
№ 32 • November/December
eatdrink
2011
www.eatdrink.ca
Che London
Modern Latin
American Cuisine at
Che Restobar
FEATURING
Marienbad & Chaucer's Pub
A Traditional Taste of Europe , in London
e County Food Co.
Fresh and Delicious, in Stratford
Huron County Wines!
Birthing a New Wine Region
Niko’s Eatery & Bar
A Taste for Everyone, in Tillsonburg
ALSO: London Training Centre | Gastronomic Heights in Whistler BC | An Epicure’s Gift Guide

Savouring the magic
of STRATFORD
Come to Stratford wrapped in fresh cedar boughs and sparkling
lights. Our festive shops beckon with unique shopping ideas on
the Victorian Christmas Trail collecting presents and stocking
stuffers along the way. Gather inspiring decorating ideas on
Heritage Home Tours all decked out for the holidays.
Savour the tastes of the season with friends at holiday cookie
making classes, innovative tastings, pairings and menus to inspire.
Plan an escape and learn to make candy and chocolate
truffles for holiday sharing or just for your own indulgence.
NOVEMBER
12 Local Wine and Local Cheese Pairing at Milky Whey
12 & 13 Rotary Arts and Crafts Show
19 Beaujolais and Cheese Pairing
19 & 26 Murder Mystery Dinner at The Parlour
26 & 27 Downtown Stratford’s Open House
26 & 27 Yuletide Tour of Homes IODE
DECEMBER
3 & 4 Stratford Heritage Home Tour–Festival City Rotary Club
4 Starbright Concert
9 & 16 Stratford Chefs School Christmas Dinner & Luncheon
For all our holiday events
go to visitstratford.ca

synchro city
IN
THE
r
FREEDOM 55 FINANCIAL LONDON SYNCHROFEST INTERNATIONAL
December 28, 29 2011
The Freedom 55 Financial London Synchrofest International will see
the world’s top synchronized skating teams compete for fifty thousand dollars
in prize money. Countries currently committed to send world-class teams are
Canada, United States of America, Japan, Russia and Finland.
Tickets can be purchased at
The John Labatt Centre Box Office, Official John Labatt Centre outlets
or at http://www.johnlabattcentre.com
Charge by Phone at 1-866-455-2849
All Event Pass - $48.50
Single Day Pass - $26.75
includes HST and facility fee
group pricing available

eatdrink inc.
Restaurants | Chefs | Farmers & Artisans | Culinary Buzz | Recipes | Wine | Travel
A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
Think Global.
Read Local.
Publisher Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery – blavery@eatdrink.ca
Social Media Editor Jane Antoniak – jantoniak@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
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Finances Michael Bell, Jim Sisco
Graphics Chris McDonell, Henry Foott
Contributors
Editorial Advisory
Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Jane Antoniak,
Jennifer Gagel, Rick VanSickle, Eric Neaves,
D.R. Hammond, Sue Sutherland-Wood,
Christie Masse, Kym Wolfe, David Hicks
Board Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Cathy Rehberg
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Website Milan Kovar/KOVNET
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Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Copyright © 2011 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.
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Cover Photo: The sleek new
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London’s new take on
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contents ISSUE № 32
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2011
7
20
54
12
16
24
50
FOOD WRITER AT LARGE
7 Catering and Holiday Entertaining
By BRYAN LAVERY
RESTAURANTS
12 London’s Luxe Revolución at Che Restobar
By BRYAN LAVERY
16 e Marienbad and Chaucer’s Pub in London
By ERIC NEAVES
20 Fresh Fare at e County Food Co. in Stratford
By DAVID HICKS
24 Great Taste at Niko’s Eatery & Bar in Tillsonburg
By CHRISTIE MASSE
SPOTLIGHTS
26 London Training Centre Breaks New Ground
By KYM WOLFE
TRAVEL
28 Enjoy Gastronomic Heights in Whistler BC
By JANE ANTONIAK
NEW & NOTABLE
34 e BUZZ
THE BUZZ
CULINARY RETAIL
45 e eatdrink Epicure’s Gift Guide
By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD
BEER MATTERS
47 Battle of the West Coast India Pale Ales
By THE MALT MONK
WINE
50 Ontario Wines for Holiday Entertaining
By RICK VanSICKLE
COOKBOOKS
54 Christmas in Review: Four Favourites
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
FARMERS & ARTISANS
60 A New Wine Region in Huron County
By JANE ANTONIAK
THE LIGHTER SIDE
62 Comfort Foods & Holiday Traditions
By CAROLYN McDONELL

Discover Downtown London
Find Your Holiday Inspiration
tidbits
Mea Culpa. And the best of the season!
By CHRIS McDONELL, eatdrink Publisher
It’s pretty easy for “exotic” to become
“erotic” in print, creating red faces and
a few chuckles. e little town of Carp
got “Crap” in one guidebook I read,
but no one in the publishing industry laughs
too hard at these things. “People in glass
houses,” and all that ...
e glaringly wrong headline I typed in
our last issue, misplacing Ingersoll’s lovely
Elm Hurst Inn, was a last-minute (and latenight)
adjustment, after our diligent writers
and editors had done their job. My brain
cramp reected badly on their work, and I’m
sorry for that. If you missed my goof: Good!
Now read the corrected article online. It’s in
our back issue archive, a place well worth
exploring. Our writers are our greatest asset
here at eatdrink, and I can condently say
that you’ll nd they get it right.
Hats o to the hard-working people of Huron
County in their eorts to rebuild downtown
Goderich following the tornado in August.
yme on 21, Kulpepper’s Kitchen Store, the
library and other spots on the square have
re-opened, and we wish the best to others
like Culbert’s Bakery, Bailey’s Restaurant,
Coee Culture, All Around the House and
their neighbours while they work on their
restorations. Full details can be found at
Goderich.ca. May this season bring you
together frequently with friends and family,
with plenty of the best food and drink. As
part of your holiday plans, consider going to
Goderich for some shopping and dining as
a thoroughly enjoyable way to support the
town. We really are all in this together.
Peace,

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 7
food writer at large
Catering and Holiday Entertaining
Timeless Classics and Contemporary Innovations
By BRYAN LAVERY
Planning a Holiday party or a seasonal
celebration? Whether it’s
an old-fashioned oce party or a
cocktail soirée, entertaining should
reect your taste and personality. Choosing
the proper caterer, restaurant, bakery or food
purveyor will help make entertaining less
uncomplicated and stress-free during
the festive season. Unleashing your
caterer’s or your favourite restaurant’s
creativity is foremost to
guaranteeing a successful event.
A balance of avours, ingredients,
tastes, techniques and food
temperatures should all be considered
when selecting a menu.
And bear in mind that not only
caterers, but many of your favourite
restaurants are well-equipped to cater your
holiday party in-house or in your home
We can’t help but be impressed by caterers
and businesses that support farmers
and food artisans by featuring local regional
ingredients and products throughout the
year. A new wave of passionate and focused
caterers pays close attention to the provenance
of their ingredients.
e catering business is always transitioning
and evolving, appropriating trends from
the restaurant business and from the popu-
THIS HOLIDAY SEASON...
lar culture at large. Flexibility and creativity
are among the components that make the
catering industry so vibrant. Adapting to
culinary trends allows caterers to oer innovative
cuisine, quality products and services,
to distinguish themselves, and help keep
their services in great demand.
e role of the caterer has
advanced from behind-the-scenes
hired help to often being a front
and centre participant at a
catered event. Clients often
look to caterers to provide
entertainment, excitement
and education for their guests;
whether it’s providing a food
tasting or wine pairing, constructing
innovative food and beverage
stations, or instructing and cooking
alongside guests as part of a chef’s demo.
Cooking classes have also become
increasingly popular, and cooking events for
guests have become the interactive entertainment.
Instead of having a caterer just
prepare a meal, guests become willing collaborators:
chopping, julienning, whipping,
beating and sautéing.
In the past year we have seen some truly
stunning events catered by Danjel Markovic
of Kantina, Andrew Wolwowicz of the newly
INDULGE
KANTINA CAFÉ & RESTAURANT
349 talbot street
519.672.5862 | eat@kantina.ca
monday to saturday | 11:30 to 22:00
sunday | 11:00 to 22:00

8 www.eatdrink.ca
opened e Springs on Springbank Drive,
Kristain Crossen of Braise Food & Wine, and
Colin Foster’s (Braywick Bistro) Wicked
Catering, as well as excellent South Vietnamese
Cuisine by Tamarine by Quynh Nhi. is
list is of course by no means denitive.
Here is a brief guide to some newer businesses
and old standbys that can be depended
upon during the busy holiday season, when
we can all use some entertaining ideas.
At Petit Paris Crêperie & Pâtisserie,
Nicole Arroyas puts the same attention to
detail into her baking and pâtisserie as she
does at her restaurant, Auberge du Petit
Prince. Mastering the art (and science) of
creating perfect pastry requires patience, timing
and strict attention to detail. Petit Paris
oers customized cakes and pâtisseries made
from scratch — timeless classics and popular
favourites — all made with the premiumquality
ingredients that have quickly established
the business’s reputation.
e shop features buttery croissants,
seasonal tarts, pain au chocolat, and other
classic French specialties, as well as crêpes,
quiche and croque monsieur (classic
smoked ham and cheese coated in Mornay
№ 32 | November/December 2011
sauce). Arroyas’s macrons are legendary,
small, round pâtisseries that are crisp on the
outside, soft on the inside, and made from
ground almonds, sugar and egg whites, with
a vast selection of avours to choose from.
Colleagues recently ordered a unique,
multi-tiered peacock-themed fondant-covered
birthday cake from Petit Paris for seventy
people that had to be seen to be believed.
Petit Paris was opened by Arroyas and business
partner Nathan Russell this past summer
and is strategically located just inside
the front doors of Covent Garden Market o
King Street. www.petit-paris.ca/ 519-433-0647
At the Covent Garden Farmers’ Market,
Penelope Holt’s LOAF continues to attract
loyal followers throughout the season. Just
around the corner from the Covent Garden
Market is Billy’s Deli, known for its seasonal
pies and baking, where you can order Diane
Pritchard’s signature Apple and Mincemeat
Pie early to avoid the holiday rush.
While you’re in the Covent Garden Market,
check out Klieber’s for marzipan or the
hard to nd can of indescribably delicious
Hungarian–style chestnut puree.
Speaking of Hungarian specialties, Agnes

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 9
and Mikki of Taste of Hungary at the Western
Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market
recently announced the opening of their elegant
Taste of Hungary shop located at 1286
Jalna Blvd. Agnes, a professional pastry chef
and caterer, will feature cabbage rolls, goulash,
and chicken paprikash “to go,” as well
as “made from scratch” cakes, traditional
cookies (gluten-free available) and strudels
(try the poppy seed). Mikki will showcase his
all-natural, no-ller, handcrafted premium
sausages. e shop is expected to have a
comprehensive array of Hungarian and
European food items such as jams, spices
and soups, particularly during the holidays.
In other Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’
Market news, Flair Pastries Bakery is
opening an Artisan Bakery in Old East Village,
kitty corner to the Farmers’ Market. Pastry
Chef/Owner eo Kortho will be featuring
natural, handcrafted breads made with local
our, as well as quiches, tourtières and other
savouries. e highly anticipated bakery is
expected to open mid-December. Totally free
of articial additives and preservatives, artisan
premium breads are on the rise. Also, Sophie
and Christain Burdan’s Red Cat Farm Bakery
310 Springbank Drive, London (between Wharncliffe & Wonderland)
Open Monday–Thursday for lunch & dinner until 10 PM.
Open Friday & Saturday for lunch & dinner until 1AM. Closed Sundays.
from Goderich and Allan Mallioux’s Downie
Street Bakehouse from Stratford are two
newer additions to the Western Fair Farmers’
and Artisans’ Market.
Choosing a Caterer
For the uninitiated, word of mouth is an
almost foolproof way to secure a caterer
most suited to your particular event. When
undertaking your initial research, be sure
to ask friends and colleagues about caterers
they can recommend. Catering venues
are also a good source of information. Most
venues will furnish a list of their preferred,
respected caterers.
You and your caterer can be as innovative
as you like when considering the many
catering alternatives available. Catering pricing
is dependent on what kind of event you
are going for, whether it is a sit-down dinner,
marché stations, buet or a cocktail party.
Most caterers oer a simple pricing guideline
based on stang, equipment, and the
menu requirements.
It has been my experience that caterers
have varied outlooks about oering tastings
to prospective clients. Some oer them, and
Owners Tim & Laura Owen
and Chef Andrew Wolwowicz
519.657.1100
www.thespringsrestaurant.com

Go ahead, sleep in.
That’s what brunch is for.
Let our chefs cook for you this Sunday
at the Delta London Armouries,
where your sleep and tastebuds come rst.
For reservations, call 519-679-6111 or
visit www.deltalondonarmouries.com
Delicious
519.432.4092
481 Richmond St., London, ON
www.garlicsoondon.com
LUNCH
DINNER
SUNDAY BRUNCH
№ 32 | November/December 2011
some do not. It is widely understood that
a tasting is oered only once your event is
booked and you wish to sample the menu
that you have conrmed with the caterer.
Many caterers have moved toward a
full-service business model typically associated
with event planners. When planning
your catering, a few options to consider
include the number of sta needed, linen,
cutlery, stemware, décor, owers, music and
lighting. e overall objective is to host a successful
event, of course, and a great caterer
can assist you in planning all the details.
Caterers
Blackfriar’s Bistro and Catering
Betty Heydon’s Blackfriar’s Bistro and Catering
has served the London area with thoughtful
and healthy gourmet cuisine for over
fteen years. is personalized catering service
customizes each menu with the client’s
precise wishes in mind. With six talented
chefs, each with a wide repertoire of culinary
expertise, Blackfriar’s has been a muchsought-after
caterer for many years. Heydon
is known for her detailed and personalized
service. Like the restaurant, Blackfriar’s
Catering has built its reputation on exceeding
customers’ expectations, as well as providing
professional and intelligent service.
519-667-4930 / www.blackfriarsbistro.com
Joan Brennan’s Elite Catering
Joan Brennan of Brennan’s Beer Bistro is the
chef/proprietor of Elite Catering, specializing
in creating custom menus for every occasion,
including in-home entertaining, banquets, or
that special picnic in the park. Brennan makes
it a priority to give you the nest foods, prepared
in the most careful, skillful ways, using
the best-quality ingredients. e world would
be a grayer place without choice, and Elite
Catering is all about choice. You will have the
opportunity to work with Chef Brennan to create
a menu to please you and your guests. Elite
Catering is sensitive to those with allergies, to
your food preferences, and to those who do
not eat meat or meat products.
519-858-9900 / www.elitecateringbydesign.ca
North Moore Catering
If you’ve never heard of North Moore Catering
(NMC), that is about to change. NMC
is a boutique caterer, located in downtown
London. Most of their business has been
generated by word of mouth. Owner Jess

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 11
Jazey-Spoelstra was working in restaurants
in New York City when she dreamed up her
concept. NMC does not use standard food
suppliers, but instead Jess handpicks each
food item to ensure quality and freshness
at each event. NMC caters cocktail parties,
weddings, post-wedding brunches, dinners
at your home, corporate events, or
any occasion a caterer is required. Catering
events have ranged from cocktail parties
with guest lists totaling 1500, as well as intimate
dinner parties.
Recently, NMC was approached to reopen
On the Fork restaurant at Museum London.
NMC is working with Brian Meehan
(executive director of Museum London), John
Nicholson (MNSA architects) and Myra Tuer
(Details by Myra Decor) to make this a hot spot
once again. With the banquettes removed,
they will be able to accommodate at least 80
people for a sit down meal and 126 for a cocktail
reception. e new facility in the Museum
will be called the e River Room, which is a
play on NYC’s e Rainbow Room.
519-697-2560 / www.northmoore.ca
White Pomegranate
White Pomegranate upscale caterers are
synonymous with distinguished service,
uncomplicated cuisine, and seasonal highquality
local ingredients. Custom is the name
of the game: party planners, chefs and stylists
work together to design truly unique events.
Delectable foods are innovative and pleasing,
and designed with all tastes in mind.
As a full-service catering and special-event
planning company, they not only provide you
with amazing cuisine selections, but also with
services and support to complete your special
event. From venue to décor to entertainment,
Chef Robbin Azzopardi will consult
with you, and based upon your requirements
and budget, will skilfully guide you through
choices for your planned event. At White
Pomegranate, it is part of their food philosophy
to support local farms and producers
whenever possible.
519-697-8520 / www.whitepomegranate.ca
BRYAN LAVERY is an avid proponent of eating “local” and
culinary tourism.

12 www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
London’s Luxe Revolución
Modern Latin American Cuisine at Che Restobar
By BRYAN LAVERY
Marvin Rivas’s
Che Restobar
on Dundas
is the latest
big-ticket entry into
downtown London’s
burgeoning dining scene.
is is modern ethnic
cooking that embodies its
origins but also highlights
its potential — think the
Serbian-inspired Kantina
or the South Vietnameseinspired
Tamarine, where
progressive-thinking
chefs and restaurateurs
oer a thoughtful and
exciting modern translation
of an indigenous cuisine.
Che features unique,
distinctive and delicious
modern cuisine inspired
by the rich culinary cultures
of Latin America.
e current menu has a decidedly Peruvian
avour, inuenced by Chef German
(pronounced Herman) Nunez’s heritage.
Whatever our tastes, we are appreciative of
restaurants like these for enriching our palates
with culinary diversity, using the skills
and techniques of modern chefs, while making
the dining culture in downtown London
more diverse and gratifying than ever.
Nuevo Latino cuisine is the rage right now,
and Che is the ideal place to experience it.
Incidentally, restobars have been a xture
on the Latin American scene for some time
now and are just beginning to gain a foothold
locally (think Michael Reis’s upscale Villa
Resto Lounge in a former downtown bank
building that was also the rst home of the
Black Fly Beverage Company). More than a
restaurant, the bar/lounge area is a dominant
feature and a prime focal point. e restobar
concept is about social interaction.
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Large picture windows fronting on Dundas Street give Che a dramatically open
face at night, while allowing generous amounts of natural light by day.
Che delivers the restobar experience in
spades: luxe surroundings with a welcoming
atmosphere, innovative culinary oerings,
and a selection of interesting wines. A
lot of attention has been paid to selecting
wines that will enhance your experience,
and all are priced for accessibility. You will
not nd any pedestrian labels on this list.
William Menjivar is the passionate in-house
and well-informed sommelier, and in addition
to an ever-evolving list of aordable
quality wines, they oer is a list of intriguing
and exotic fruit-based cocktails. Try a signature
capirinha (Brazil s national drink) or
Cuba’s ubiquitous highball, a thirst-quenching
mojito, or a pisco sour with lime juice,
sugar, egg white and sparkling wine. Menjivar,
an alumni of both Braise Food and Wine
and the Tasting Room, grasps the concepts
of intelligent hospitality and surpassing
customer’s expectations. A little theatrical

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 13
Various interesting xtures spread light over the ceilings and exposed
brick walls, creating an extra level of texture in the comfortable and
stylish Che Restobar.
ourish in a bartender’s repertoire is never a
bad thing, and in this case it is often part of
the experience.
A well-designed restobar demands an
in-depth understanding of how restaurants
ow, how customers and sta interact with
the layout. Che does this with aplomb, featuring
exposed brick walls, a long bar with
a granite countertop, and a perfect coign of
vantage, as well as immense Maskros light
xtures that project decorative patterns
on the walls and ceilings. Step up into the
dining room, which, like the bar, has high
ceilings (one of the features of the buildings
that appealed to Rivas), and large picture
windows that allow lots of natural light.
Rivas, originally from El Salvador, relocated
to London from Toronto ve years ago
(after a lengthy stint at Babalúu in Yorkville),
looking for a property that he could develop.
With the assistance of Janette MacDonald,
General Manager of Downtown London,
Rivas scouted for the ideal location, nally
purchasing two adjacent buildings with
great potential and turning them into a virtual
showplace. e restaurant is on a split
level on the ground oor, and the upstairs
houses apartments.
Peruvians claim ceviche as their own and,
at Che, Chef Nunez re-interprets and presents
his signature repertoire of ceviche creations
in a contemporary manner. Ceviche,
a seafood dish popular in Central and South
America, is typically made from fresh raw
sh marinated in citrus juices such as lemon
or lime and spiced with chilli peppers, and is
known as the epitome of fusion (mixing and
matching nontraditional methods
and ingredients and creating
something dierent). It often
uses Incan hot peppers, Spanish
limes and onions and Japanese
techniques for preparing sh.
At Che, ceviche is elevated by
creativity and brilliant avour
combinations such as fresh tuna
in tamarind leche de tigre (citrus
based marinade that is purported
to be both an aphrodisiac
and a hangover cure), avocado,
jicama, Peruvian corn and
yam; or try their delectable wild
salmon in a passion fruit leche
de tigre, jicama, Peruvian corn
and yam mixture. ese dishes
are hands-down winners. A version
with tilapia is less so and has since been
banished from the menu.
Nunez and his culinary team add a ery
splash of Incan peppers (aji) to the kitchen’s
signature citrus marinated wild salmon,
octopus and tuna ceviche. Aji is a fundamental
and ubiquitous ingredient that is
characteristic of Peruvian cuisine, and is
present in most dishes. e best-known
variety used is the very spicy aji limo, which
ranges from yellow to green to red in colour.
The split level works well, with the upper dining
room still having pleasantly high ceilings

14 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Similar to ceviche but subtler
in taste and presentation
(think shashimi), taridito is
a cold appetizer made with
thin slices of citrus-marinated
sh. e tender octopus
tiraditos with an earthy black
olive sauce is a knockout, as
are the fresh tuna tiraditos
with mango and leche de tigre
cream sauce. When these
dishes are served with a side
of confetti of hot peppers
(optional) the taste is deliciously
volcanic.
Made from scratch empañadas
are beef, pork or
Marvin Rivas (left) shows o a plate Empanadas, with Chef German Nunez chicken with onions, olives,
(middle) presenting a Huancaina Salad and William Menjivar holding a raisins, eggs and peppers, and
Chimichurri ribeye steak with yuca fries in mojo, chimichuri, and pico de gallo. served with salsa casceria.
Chimichurri is a traditional
Latin American sauce with minced parsley
and bursting with aromatics. Here chef’s
version is a garlicky revelation on cookedto-perfection
(Angus) rib eye steak with
crisp yucca fries in mojo with pico de gallo.
On another occasion we were impressed
by a shared dish of paella, fragrant saron
rice with onions, peppers, chorizo sausage,
tender chicken, and redolent with calamari,
mussels and prawns.
Che’s signature Huancaina Salad is perfection:
a medley of Yukon gold potatoes,
ripe avocado, red onion, olives, eggs and
lime, scented with a spicy aji amarillo (yellow
hot pepper), and topped with creamy
fresh cheese sauce. It is so good we are
tempted to lick the plate.
Che is an authentic restobar experience in
an upscale but casual setting where people
can revel in camaraderie, great food and
drink, and not break the bank.
The long and elegantly simple bar with a granite
countertop oers a convivial spot for camaraderie.
Che Restobar
225 Dundas Street (at Clarence), London
519-601-7999
www.cherestobar.ca
lunch: monday to friday, 11:30 am–3 pm
dinner: monday to wednesday, 5 pm–10 pm
thursday to saturday 5 pm–11 pm
BRYAN LAVERY is a regular contributor to eatdrink.

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 15
IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE
OPENING SOON AT MUSEUM LONDON
CAFÉ TO BE OPEN 11-4,
TUESDAY TO FRIDAY
AVAILABLE EVENINGS FOR PRIVATE DINING,
WEDDINGS, CORPORATE EVENTS & PARTIES
MONTHLY WINE PAIRING DINNERS, COOKING
& FLORAL CLASSES AND SUNDAY BRUNCH
STARTING IN THE SPRING
theriverroom.ca | 519.697.2560

16 www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
It seemed a near perfect day as
I walked past the wrought iron
fence and sunlit golden brickwork
of e Marienbad Restaurant
and Chaucer’s Pub. On entering, I was
immediately drawn into the Old World
charm and comfort of the interior. e
pub has padded hardwood chairs, a
natural stone replace, stained glass,
and an ancient piano in the corner: this
place denitely beckons you to enjoy
the consumption of some heartwarming
food and an excellent pint of beer.
e Marienbad is located on Carling
Avenue in London, just west of
Richmond Street. e almost hundredand-fty-year-old
building was the
original home of The London Free
Press. Housing a few other businesses
after the Free Press’s move, it became home
to the Marienbad and Chaucer’s on March 8,
1974. e Marienbad was intended to serve a
taste of central Europe; opened by a Czechoslovakian
native, it takes its name from the
famous Czech “Marienbad Spa.” Chaucer’s
was meant to echo that same atmosphere,
for a more casual pub crowd. Jerry Pribil,
the current owner of more than a decade,
and Chef Klaus Campbell have brought the
№ 32 | November/December 2011
European Tastes and Traditions
The Marienbad Restaurant and Chaucer’s Pub, in London
By ERIC NEAVES
Situated in one of the city’s more distinguished heritage
buildings, once home to The London Free Press, The Marienbad
exudes a charming Old World ambiance in Downtown London.
restaurant into its twenty-seventh year of
business without loosing any of that touch.
Chef Klaus Campbell, originally from Germany,
has been cooking since his apprenticeship
began at the age of 15. He worked in Germany
for several years, until he and his wife
decided to follow her family to London in
the mid-1980s. After brief stints in a few other
London kitchens, he found his way to the
Marienbad. He took over as Chef in 1988, and
has been happily cooking away ever since.
“I could eat schnitzel every day,”
Chef Klaus remarked when I asked
him what his favourite dish is. e
menu features plenty of Central
European comfort fare: Besides
their famous Wiener Schnitzel, they
also oer dishes such as Hungarian
Goulash, Haluska (small noodle
dumplings), Roast Lamb, and Fresh
Sausage, all with savoury vegetable
accompaniments. With a loyal clientele
who return time and again for
Chef Klaus Campbell and Manager Jonathan
Fraser, in The Atrium with its mural of Carlsbad,
Czech Republic, home to the Marienbad Spa

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 17
The spacious dining room is full of character in keeping with the
menu that features plenty of Central European comfort fare.
these regional favourites, Chef Klaus has
found a good balance of rotating new dishes
into his repertoire (often with some Asian,
Italian, or French air) while keeping the
popular European specialities.
One such favourite, with an almost cultlike
following, is his Beef Tartare. “I love
it, and for those who do too, we see them
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again and again.” No stranger to
this dish myself (Chaucer’s being a
favourite venue for a pint during my
undergrad), I was delighted to see
it come out to the table, accompanied
by Klaus’ great big grin. “I’m
always smiling,” he remarks as I dig
in, which from the jovial atmosphere
I’ve always experienced, makes perfect
sense. It’s a happy place to be.
Another claim to fame of both
the Marienbad and Chaucer’s is
their selection of beers. Maintaining
approximately eighty dierent brews
at any given time, it’s one of the
best collections in the city. Manager
Jonathan Fraser takes considerable
pride in his menu, rotating in beers
appropriate for the season: heartier
ales for the winter and clean crisp lagers for
the warmer months. On this visit, I decided
to try the Spearhead Hawaiian Style Pale Ale.
With a pleasing bitterness on the front of the
palate, it nished with a hint of pineapple
and made a perfect pairing with the sunshine
on the patio.
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18 www.eatdrink.ca
Chef Klaus Campbell’s famed Steak Tartare
Not satised with just the fun of great
beer, Chaucer’s also runs a “passport”
program on a seasonal basis. Patrons are
challenged to try a beer from each of the
countries represented on the current beer
list, over about 80 days. When I try to nail
Jonathan down on how many countries are
represented, he admits “new things y in
so often it’s hard to say for sure — but I joke
that we’ll always have plenty from each of
the six habitable continents, and if a brewery
Chaucer’s Pub features a classic bar, a cosy replace, and an
outstanding selection of beer on tap and by the bottle
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№ 32 | November/December 2011
ever opens in Antarctica then ...” In addition
to their beer, the Marienbad and Chaucer’s
feature a small wine list, with some VQA representation,
which matches their menu well.
Jonathan also points out that they plan on
bringing in more VQA as time progresses.
Both Klaus (with his food) and Jonathan
(with the beer) recognize how competitive
local producers are in the quest for quality.
Among the Canadian breweries represented
on their menu are Spearhead, Mill Street,
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№ 32 | November/December 2011
Nickel Brook, Steam Whistle and Unibroue.
Klaus brings in primarily Ontario meats
and sh from our Great Lakes, and gets up
early each Saturday morning to replenish his
stock of produce at the Trail’s End Market in
East London. His philosophy on the matter
is simple — “it tastes better.”
Another favourite of the Marienbad’s
patrons is the Murder Mystery series. Usually
running the last Friday of each month
through the fall, winter and spring months,
$39 treats you to a three-course meal, during
which the drama unfolds. Be careful which
table you sit next to, however, as one of your
fellow diners is the culprit. “We’ll actually be
running additional dates around the holidays,”
Jonathan remarks. “People really get
into it.”
Another feature the Marienbad is known
for is its selection of private rooms. e
ground oor features the Atrium, which is
clad in the same golden brick as the building’s
exterior. Its glass ceiling allows sunshine
to pour in over the mural of Carlsbad,
Czechoslovakia (a town near Marienbad
Spa), painted by a family member of the
original owner. is room holds about thirty
people. If you need a larger space, the replace
room upstairs may be more your style.
Almost matching the layout of Chaucer’s
below, this room will host parties of eighty or
so, and is adorned with a replace of its own
and wood furnishings from London’s old
courthouse.
Towards the end of my visit, Jonathan mentioned
that during this past August, Chaucer’s
was host to Art Fusion (londonfuse.ca), a collective
of visual and musical artists. “Some
nights there were things going on in every
room,” he remarks, and adds that events will
likely return next summer. For me, I plan on
being back much sooner.
Marienbad Restaurant & Chaucer’s Pub
122 Carling Street, London
(519) 679-9940
www.marienbad.ca
hours of operation:
monday: 11:30 am to 10:30 pm
tuesday & wed.: 11:30 am to 11 pm
thursday: 11:30 am to 11:30 pm
friday & saturday: 11:30 am to 1 am
sunday: 4:30 pm to 9 pm
ERIC NEAVES is an apprentice at the Stratford Chef School.
He also writes, and sings opera when time allows.
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20 www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
On the blackboard above
e County Food Co.’s
front, scribed like Commandments
in ten-inch
chalk letters, are some of Janet Ashworth’s
favourite local food sources:
Blanbrook Farms (for bison), Creton’s
Produce (heirloom), Nubrands
Country Produce, Wegman’s
Produce, Orval Zehr (eggs), Carol
Francom (herbs), Caveman Crops,
Ruthanne Bauman (pies).
e list is far from exhaustive,
but it illustrates Ashworth’s de facto
100-mile approach to her business.
“I came to Stratford to see if I could
make a living oering good food, at
aordable prices, using seasonal,
local ingredients,” she says. “We’re in our
fourth year now, so I guess it’s working!”
Bustling about the kitchen at the back of
her Erie Street location, Ashworth recounts
her studies at the Culinary Institute of America
in upstate New York, and 25 years in the
Toronto restaurant scene, including stints
with uber-restaurateur Peter Oliver and
three of her own restaurant partnerships.
But then she visited her friend Sue
Pasquale, owner of the celebrated Boomer’s
Gourmet Fries, now just a couple of doors
away. “at did it,” she admits. “I had a hunch
that I could oer what families need: prepared
meals and sides that are quick, easy
and healthy, which is no joke these days. ”
On a personal level, adds Ashworth, “moved
to Stratford for the people and the culture.”
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Fresh and Friendly
Eat-In and Takeaway at The County Food Co. in Stratford
By DAVID HICKS
The County Food Co.’s owner Janet Ashworth (right) and her secondin-command,
Victoria Rose, place an emphasis on seasonal local
ingredients. The multiple blackboard menus get a regular workout.
Farmer-Friendly
e aptly named County Food Co. is also a
xture at the Stratford Farmers Market, and
Ashworth’s jovial, straight-up manner has
forged strong bonds with other local vendors
and farmers. Now those friends keep showing
up with “a bushel of beets here, a case
of broccoli there, an armful of bok choy.
One day we wound up with eighty pounds
of asparagus tips — in this little place,” Ashworth
demurs about her improvisational
approach to the menu. “Whatever’s fresh
and comes in the door is what I use.”
Ladling the cauldron of veal stock that has
been simmering overnight, pondering what
to do with the gorgeous meat falling from the
ribs, she cites her litany of local suppliers,
“C’est Bon goat’s cheese, Arva our, Perth
Pork Products, Shawn Vernon’s apples … I
think we’re just unconsciously 100-mile. I
use what’s fresh and what’s seasonal, and
that works out to be the most economical. I
mean, why serve a pale, cardboard tomato
from California when they’re in season here?
It just doesn’t make sense.”
On the Erie Street patio, which seats 16 in season

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 21
Diners can combine favourites. Pictured, Blackened Chicken with
Tomato Salsa, Tomato Basil Risotto Cake, Quinoa with Cranberries.
In & Out
During the theatre season, the balance of
business tips toward the eat-in, outdoor
seating and picnic takeout trac, shifting in
the o-season to take-home
meals and catering. e dining
room seats 24 on one
side, with the other half dedicated
to take-out, prepared
foods and more chalkboards
crammed with semi-permanent
and daily items.
Ashworth’s second-incommand,
Victoria Rose,
gives a tour of the most popular
items: schnitzels (“We’ll
go through ve platters in a
day”), mac & cheese using
Bright’s cheddar and asiago,
hunter-style chicken, braised
lamb with sweet-potato crust,
pot pies, soups, and a display
case of salads and sides.
ere’s also a kitchen rack of all-local condiments
such as August’s Harvest garlic products
from Gadshill, Bauman’s honey from
Millbank, Orchard Hill jams from Wallenstein,
and Savvy Chef sauces from London.
ey do a brisk business in special main
courses, side dishes and desserts at Christmas,
Easter and anksgiving. “Everyone could use
some help on the holidays,” she says.
“Janet also does spontaneous specialty
items, depending on the occasion, like duck
cont and bison tortière, and her gravlax
disappears in a day.” Rose shrugs, “If you’re
not here, you miss it.”
e beer and wine are also handpicked:
St. omas’ Dead Elephant Ale is on tap and
Stratford Pilsner is in the fridge; and eight
Ontario wines — four red, four white — from
Chateau de Charmes, Cave Spring, Henry of
Pelham, Creekside, et al. “I try to span
the range, from Gamay to Meritage in
reds, Riesling to unoaked Chardonnay
in whites,” says Ashworth. “But it also
depends if I go down to Niagara and
grab a case. Sometimes to the chagrin
of my servers.”
Spontaneity Rules
e County Food Co. sta thrives on
the spontaneity, actually. “is summer
a blogger from the States came
in search of the world’s best peanut
butter sandwich,” says Rose. “Other
restaurants sent him here, so I said,
‘Okay, come back tomorrow and we’ll have
something special for you.’
“So he came back and he was blown away:
a pita, stued with peanut
butter, grilled vegetables
and dried cranberries.”
(“You should have seen the
presentation!” Ashworth
interjects.) “And he raved.
Apparently it’s one of his
most popular blog entries.”
Ashworth’s ad-libbing
skills served her when
she was recently matched
against Francisco Alejandri,
graduate of the Stratford
Chef School and owner of
Toronto’s Agave Y Aguacate,
in this year’s Savour Stratford
Chef Challenge. “It was a
one-hour chef smack-down,”
Ashworth laughs. “e surprise
ingredients were bacon, a quail’s egg, a
partridge and a duck. at was fun.”
Ashworth’s potato pancakes
County Food Co.
38 Erie Street, Stratford
519-275-2665
www.countyfoodco.com
Hours of operation:
Tuesday to Friday: 11 AM to 7 PM
Saturday: 11 AM to 5 PM
Sunday: 10 AM to 2 PM (brunch)
Closed Mondays
DAVID HICKS is a Stratford branding consultant, writer,
and wingman for the City of Stratford’s “Top Seven Intelligent
Community” awards campaign. david@pensario.ca

Stratford is
mo than
great theat.
“I made a delicious discovery: Stratford
has a culinary obsession. And, for me,
nding what I call a ‘food town’ is a rare
and magnicent thing ... You’ve got a
place that feeds all the senses.”
— Marion Kane, Food Writer
www.marionkane.com
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Hours:Tues.-Fri. 10am-6pm. Sat. 10am-5pm
519.275.2665
www.countyfoodco.com
38 Erie St. Stratford, On N5A 2M4

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24 www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
A Taste for Everyone
at Niko’s Eatery & Bar in Tillsonburg
By CHRISTIE MASSÉ
As a member of Oxford Fresh and Savour
Oxfordlicious, Niko’s Eatery & Bar in
Tillsonburg helps set the standard for
local dining in Oxford County. is is
the calibre of restaurant you might expect to nd
in a booming metropolis like London, with all the
right touches to be a contender in today’s competitive
industry. In fact, in 2010, Niko’s received
the Reader’s Choice Award for “Best Overall Restaurant”
by SUN Media Readers.
e décor at Niko’s is impressive. From curb
appeal to semi-open concept
kitchen, the use of various materials,
the elements, lighting, and
visual ow in its dining room
create a stimulating atmosphere
for its guests. With walls made
of wine bottles, water, stainless
steel, and what looks like molded
copper, the visual interest for the
onlooker is endless, and everything
seems mise en place, to use
a kitchen term.
It is no surprise the servers
at Niko’s have won awards for
Outstanding Service: the sta is
knowledgeable and enthusiastic
of the food and wine, prompt, professional, and
couldn’t be more personable.
I recently had the pleasure of dining at Niko’s,
and as a chef, good service is more than appreciated,
but what truly tells the story of a restaurant
is its food. With two Red Seal chefs in the kitchen,
expectations are high. After a thorough read of the
menu, they are met. I want to order everything.
And given the surprising aordability of the items,
I’m convinced I can. To prevent this from happening,
I remove myself from the dinner menu and
take a gander at the wine list. With features, standards,
and vintages by the glass or bottle, there is
a varietal, country, and price point for everyone.
Following my wine order, I plan to revisit the dinner
menu with a more rational eye, though the
introduction of wine is deemed counterproductive
to such intentions. To make the decision easier, my
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Elegantly chic and impressive in
style, Niko’s also has a reputation for
personable and professional service.
guest and I decide one of us
will order a more traditional
meal while the other will
be adventurous. My fellow
patron goes with the #1 Seller,
Niko’s Calamari, and the
Chipotle Peppercorn Rib Eye,
while I sample their Avocado
Spring Rolls and Tahiti Lime
Chicken. I nd the Prosciutto Risotto
accompanying the chicken dish strong
enough to stand alone. Each aspect of
this entrée presents a personality of its
own, right down to the hand-cut, cinnamon-roasted
beets and carrots.
As owner Chris Kyriakopoulos
explains over coee and dessert, he
wanted to bring in chefs that can oer
something for everyone, hence their
slogan, “A Taste for Everyone.” eir
menu is designed to cater both to those
more comfortable with traditional
items such as Caesar Salad, New York
Steak, and Fish and Chips, as well as
the more daring diner, interested in
testing the avours of the world. For
either classication, it is apparent that

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 25
serious contemplation
and care is put into each
dish, from preparation to
presentation.
In the kitchen, Head
Chef Brandon Buckle
is assisted by former
Head Chef turned Sous-
Chef Brian Rocco. Brian
stepped down from the
position after lling it
for two years in order to
teach at Fanshawe College,
within their culinary
program. With a philosophy
heavy on simplicity
and nished presentation,
along with a erce
combined palate, the pair
can tackle the 180-seat
restaurant while keeping
the quality, freshness, and
originality as high as the
stacked onion rings that
accompany the Rib Eye.
Brandon, a Fanshawe
graduate, previously
ran the kitchen at e
Clog & istle in Ingersoll
and has been in his
position now for over a
year. Brandon’s food philosophy
revolves around
the concepts of simplicity
and fusion. Brian,
another Fanshawe grad,
has worked in London
kitchens such as e Best
Western and Michael’s
On e ames. When
asked about his philosophy,
he stresses avour
and freshness. “We’re not
afraid to season our food
here. We want to bring out
avours. Everything with
the exception of maybe
four items is made in house right down to the
marshmallows in the S’more Brownie Sunday”—
an impressive feat, based on the size
and diversity of the menu.
Considering that Chris owns nine businesses
and runs from the arena to gymnastics
meets and soccer practice with his
kids, it is amazing that there isn’t a detail
left unattended at Niko’s — evidence of a
Avocado Spring Rolls
Chipotle Peppercorn Rib Eye Steak
Tahiti Lime Chicken with Prociutto Risotto
Pumpkin Cheesecake
well-chosen and welltrained
sta. As the
president and CEO of
RIBA (Restaurateurs
Independent Buyer’s
Association), Chris is
an industry veteran
with a nger dipped
in many of Ontario’s
ne dining establishments.
RIBA’s mission
is to help Ontario’s food
industry entrepreneurs
execute their dreams
on a large scale. Quick
to lend a helping hand
to upcoming food and
beverage freshmen,
Chris is doing his part
to nurture our local
industry and leave his
mark on the evolution
of the business. A solid
foundation to a success
story in the hospitality
industry is a hospitable
nature.
In addition to the
restaurant, Niko’s oers
caterings of all sizes
and styles. It also oers
live jazz entertainment
and, rumour has it, an
outstanding Sunday
Brunch. Call for reservations
and visit their website
for menus, features,
and directions. It is absolutely
worth the jaunt to
Tillsonburg.
Niko’s Eatery & Bar
102 Broadway Street,
Tillsonburg
519-688-9393
www.nikoseatery.com
Hours of Operation:
Monday to Thursday, 11 AM to 10 PM
Friday & Saturday, 11 AM to 11 PM
Sunday, 10 AM to 9 PM
Sunday Brunch, 10 AM to 2:30 PM
CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a graduate of the Stratford Chef School
and now runs Crust Catering & Bakery in St. Thomas (www.
crustcatering.ca).

26 www.eatdrink.ca
spotlight
A Recipe for Social Enterprise
London Training Centre is breaking new ground
By KYM WOLFE
If you’re looking for a good recipe for social
enterprise, you might want to take a page
out of London Training Centre’s book. is
local non-prot has blended a variety of
ingredients to create a unique food-centred
enterprise. Here, revenues from food production,
food processing, food retailing and
food service are used to support skills development,
employment opportunities and
community engagement.
“Food is a catalyst for social change
because it engages people,” says David Corke,
LTC’s executive director. Everything the
agency cooks up will ultimately contribute to
its three bottom lines: 1) to help people, 2) to
have a positive impact in the community, and
3) to generate enough revenue to accomplish
the rst two.
“e great thing about social enterprise
is that if you break even, or only make a
dollar, you are a success,” says Corke. LTC
has a number of revenue-generating channels:
Allumette, a banquet-stang agency;
a professional training arm that provides
instruction in everything from Safe Food
Handling and Smart Serve to First Aid, CPR
and computer training; and a new initiative,
rental of their kitchen area to caterers and
food artisans who need access to a licensed
and inspected kitchen. LTC is also planning
to launch a series of cooking classes
in the spring of 2012, featuring a variety of
guest chefs. All of the surplus funds gener-
David Corke, Executive
Director of the LTC, in
the Centre’s garden.
№ 32 | November/December 2011
ated from the revenue-producing services
are plowed back into Local Food Skills, the
agency’s food training program.
Relationships with community partners
who are involved in dierent elements of the
food chain also feed the Local Food Skills’
bottom line. For example, making soup stock
is a fundamental skill in the kitchen, says
Corke. “Dan Murphy from Field Gate Organics
supplies us with beef and chicken bones
that we use to teach participants stock-making
skills. Once the stock is made we freeze it,
then send it back to Dan to retail, and we get
a share of the prot. It’s a great private sector/
non-prot sector partnership.”
LTC was established 25 years ago to provide
training and support to unemployed
people interested in working in the food and
hospitality industry. e food training program
has evolved over time, and now reaches
back into the supply chain to incorporate
eld-to-table elements. “Beyond teaching
food skills, we discuss how to connect with
food,” says Steve James, the chef who runs the
training kitchen. “We try to use traditionally
and ethically grown food that we grow ourselves
or that we purchase locally.”
is past year some of the food used in the
training program – tomatoes, leeks, carrots
and other fresh produce – was grown in LTC’s
ve acres of land on a farm on the outskirts of
London, just west of Hyde Park. e tranquil
country setting provided an ideal backdrop
Chef Steve James, in the kitchen with students Solomon
Kedebe, Denise Pelletier, & Nikolas Kerr (back)

Jacob Hawes (left) and Ken
Rutledge, student chefs, at Food
for Thought, a fundraising event.
BOX OFFICE
1.877.862.5984
blythfestival.com
to the Food For
ought fundraiser
that was
held there in
September.
Both David
Corke and
Steve James
have an interest
in the local food
movement, and
they are excited
about educating
children
about the food
that is being
grown on the city’s back doorstep. is year
a new program, Locavore Kid, is being introduced
in one of the ames Valley District
School Board’s elementary schools.
www.eatdrink.ca 27
Small production growers have an important
place in the local food supply chain,
says Corke, and this year LTC has partnered
with Farm Start to promote small-scale
farming as a career option. LTC would also
like to explore ways to ensure that small
growers can access distribution systems
beyond farmers’ markets to get their crops
to local dinner tables. “Small food production
and the development of a secondary
food system will create economic energy to
support those small operations and provide
employment opportunities,” says Corke.
London Training Centre
317 Adelaide St. South, Unit 110, London
519-685-4331
www.londontraining.on.ca
KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London.

28 www.eatdrink.ca
travel
A Taste of the Mountain
Enjoy Gastronomic Heights in Whistler BC
By JANE ANTONIAK
It’s pretty safe to say that we all had our
eyes on Whistler during the Winter
Olympics in 2010 — ski racing, sledding,
parties in the village square — it was all
very exciting and so wonderfully Canadian.
Now we get to enjoy all the upgrades to Whistler
without the high costs and frenzy of the
Olympics. With easy access from London to
Vancouver on WestJet, you can depart here
at 7 a.m. and nd yourself zipping along the
jaw-dropping views of the Sea to Sky Highway
from Vancouver to the mountains by the
early afternoon. ere are direct shuttles, or
you can rent a car to take in this “bucket list”
drive, about two hours from door to door,
depending on city trac out of Vancouver.
Anymore, you don’t have to be a winter
sports enthusiast to take in the glamour and
fun of a mountain village. e slope-side
restaurants, bars and accommodations have
spectacular views — whether watching the
skiers and boarders coming down or gazing up
at the panoramic mountains. And anyone can
take the gondola
up Whistler
and then
jump aboard
the Peak 2 Peak
Gondola to
Blackcomb,
enjoying awesome
views
and a sense of
gliding through
the skies.
Luckily, for
foodies, Whistler
is uniquely
situated next
to the lush and
fertile growing
region of Pemberton
and
just a stone’s
throw from the
№ 32 | November/December 2011
ocean. Whistler chefs are among the very
few who can work in mountains and enjoy
cooking with fresh, local products because
of the unique growing conditions in nearby
Pemberton and access to fresh seafood and
sh. Combine that with wonderful BC wines
and locally brewed beers, and Whistler
becomes a welcome haven for high-end
regional dining in a casual atmosphere.
James Walt, Executive Chef at the celebrated
Araxi restaurant, has been a pioneer in Whistler
in expert combining of sustainable cooking
with magnicent taste and presentation.
Araxi was one of Whistler’s original restaurants,
and Walt has brought it considerable
fame with his connection to the Hell’s Kitchen
TV show, as executive chef at the Canadian
embassy in Rome, and for his cookbook, Araxi,
which was a nalist for the James Beard Foundation
award and the winner of a Gourmand
World Cookbook Award as best Chef Book
in Canada. Walt has been at Araxi since 1997
and is a graduate of the Stratford Chef School.
Whistler is spectacular, by day and by night

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 29
Working at Araxi has allowed him to showcase
his love of regional cooking — he now resides
in Pemberton and has personal connections
with his long-time producers/suppliers, especially
North Arm Farm near Mount Currie. is
past summer, Walt began the North Arm Farm
long table suppers, where 160 people would
gather at one long outdoor table to share a
communal meal from big platters — a style
he admired in Italy. While Araxi is far more
upscale, with white table cloths and seating
for 155, Walt’s playful
approach is evident to
diners who can look into the open kitchen or
sit at two chef’s tables. Whether it’s Qualicum
Beach scallops or Pemberton potatoes, guests
can expect gently handled dishes with a minimalist
approach, yet bursting in avour.
“I’m totally happy here,” he enthuses.
“We’re pretty fortunate. I grew up in the
Ottawa Valley, in a farming community,
and I just love Pemberton. e farmers have
become my friends, our kids go to school
together, we feel connected. I now have ve
farms growing just for us.”
Walt can take sweet corn and basil and
create a delicious soup that you swear is
cream-lled, but is just corn, basil and onion
made from a stock of boiled corn cobs and
only a half cup of cream for 16 servings. Simplicity
rules at Araxi, service is attentive, and
the place is booked solid from December to
Easter. www.araxi.com
A short walk from the centre of the village
is a newer restaurant, Alta Bistro, which is
the baby brother of Araxi — and a lot easier
on the pocketbook — and it’s also dedicated
to sustainability and quality preparations.
“We’re starting to feel like we’re a bit established,”
says co-owner Eric Grith, who has
lived in Whistler for 32 years. With a small but
interesting menu that features three-course
dinners for $29 or $39, Alta also draws from
local producers while presenting in the style
of a classic European bistro. eir cheese board
and charcuterie board (with meats from Nita
Lake Lodge) are their signatures, and so are
their attitudes towards the environment —
they create their own carbonated water, using
“Whistler water,” which all locals rave about,
ltering it on site, and adding sparkle through
the Vivleau System. ey pride themselves on
using all parts of the animal, no plastic wrap,
only recycled plastic containers and induction
cooking. “Food can be tasty and not expensive,”
Bearfoot Bistro Chef Melissa Craig Scallops with Corn, Spicy Sausage
and Mustard Vinaigrette,
Bearfoot Bistro’s Wine Cellar
by Araxi Restaurant Chef James Walt
says Grith. “We felt there
was a gap between highend
and franchise-food restaurants. We want
to promote excellent food at a good value for
locals and guests.” www.altabistro.com
For the full charcuterie experience, you
need to venture out of the main Whistler village
to Nita Lake Lodge, located adjacent to
the Whistler railway station in the area known
as Creekside. Meats are hung to cure/dry in
open refrigerators, and guests in the Cure
Lounge are encouraged to try such delicacies
as pickled veal tongue (“You don’t get freaked
out?” asks Cu as he insists I try some) and
wild boar head while sipping on signature
cocktails such as Half Asleep in Frog Pyjamas,
a Smoky Robinson, or a Red Chihuahua, all
crafted by Hailey Pasemko, Commander-in-
Chief of beverages. She makes her own bitters,
syrups and infusions, creating a beverage
culture, and pairs cocktails with charcuterie
and other bar foods, including homemade
potato chips with Pemberton potatoes or succulent
chicken wings — a favourite of Executive
Chef Tim Cu. From Saskatchewan,
Cu knows a thing or two about growing
foods, and he personally cares for the rooftop
organic garden — its seven plots include
Saskatoon berries, onions, lettuce and herbs,
some of which end up in Pasemko’s cocktails.
“I didn’t move here to ski. It’s a personal
challenge to revitalize this place. We do
everything ourselves and we utilize the area

30 www.eatdrink.ca
around us, the ocean and Pemberton, and
we cook within the seasons.” e two play o
each other well – both young, yet experienced
and thrilled to be working together at the
revamped Nita Lake Lodge. Denitely a great
spot for Happy Hour away from the throngs of
partyers in Whistler. www.nitalakelodge.com
If it’s wine you’re looking for, then a
must-stop is the Bearfoot Bistro, home of
the 12,000-bottle wine cellar. A short ight
of stairs down from the main dining room
takes you into the awesome experience of
being surrounded by wine. Occasionally,
private parties are held in the cellar and sta
enjoy having guests “sabre” a bottle of bubbly
— remove the cork with a sword — the
ultimate party game! Suce it to say you can
order anything you want from the cellar to
be served upstairs in the dining room and
paired with delicious oerings from Chef
Melissa Craig — one of the few women chefs
in the area. “It’s kind of a playground for
me,” she says and she means it. Salmon tartare
was infused
with pop rocks candies to create create a surprising
crackle in your mouth. A corn salad included
popcorn in the mixture. And ice cream is
made tableside with liquid nitrogen and
served with your own choices of toppings,
including maple syrup liquor — incredibly
creamy and tasty!
At one point during your evening at Bearfoot
Bistro, you may be asked to stand up,
don a large, fur-trimmed parka, and head
into their ice room, where you can sample
some of their 48 vodkas that are chilling
in the ice walls at -28°C. Scott Barber, the
“vodka director,” studied at Fanshawe College
and is from Owen Sound. He gets a big
kick out of walking visitors through a vodka
sampling – including peppery and sweetinfused
vodkas — all consumed neat and
chilled, of course. A super warm-up on a
cold night! www.bearfootbistro.com
Whistler/Blackcomb is also home to four
conference hotels, each with their own accomplished
culinary teams and impressive dining.
e Fairmont at Blackcomb has the lively
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Mallard Bar — a must-stop experience with
outdoor re pits and indoor live music. ey
pour Whistler Mountain Lager and Blasted
Church Pinot Gris like it’s an everyday beverage.
Fairmont also has the Wine Room for ne dining,
including seafood from Qualicum Bay, and
is part of the Ocean Wise program. eir neighbours
are the Four Seasons, which is home
to the Sidecut Modern Steak House, serving
Alberta beef cooked on an 1800-degree infrared
grill and seasoned with their own spices, called
Edison’s Medicine. Back in Whistler Village, e
Westin has the Aubergine Grille, a 150-seat ne
dining restaurant with an impressive outside
patio that features gourmet sandwiches and
impressive views. Its neighbour is the Hilton,
the original Whistler hotel that still oers woodburning
replaces in guest rooms and is just
steps from the gondola. Inside the Hilton is the
Cinnamon Bear Bar, a longtime watering hole
and sports bar enjoyed by generations of visitors
to Whistler. Adjacent to it is the Cinnamon
Bear Grille, serving weekend brunch buets
sure to kick-start any day of activity.
e best part of
Whistler is that it’s
a pedestrian village,
so you can nd ways
to burn o all the
calories by strolling
the streets and taking
the short walk over to
Blackcomb village. Nearby hiking trails oer
geocaching treks, and you can even go ziptrekking
year-round — an exhilarating way
to tour the mountain while ziplining over
creeks and tree tops. Aside from the thrill of
skiing down the Dave Murray Downhill and
creating your own Olympic moment, ziplining
at Whistler is a must for thrill seekers —
or anyone brave enough to step o the edge
of a platform! Safe and very fun, it provides a
unique gliding experience in the mountains.
www.ziptrek.com
Oh ,yes, of course there is the skiing —
something to t in between meals! With
an El Niña year predicted (means loads
of snow) and skiing from late November
through past Easter, Whistler is our sure-bet
destination, and one that Canadians can be
very proud to call our own!
Only Available ONLINE:
At the end of Issue 32, you’ll nd a
holiday treat recipe from Chef James
Walt’s acclaimed Araxi cookbook
JANE ANTONIAK is the owner of Antoniak Communications
and a lover of mountains. She packs up her pen and skis at every
opportunity, as a culinary travel writer for eatdrink.

Rodgers & Hammerstein’s
№ 32 | November/December 2011
CINDERELLA
Dine • Shop • Stay • Play
Music by Richard Rodgers
Enjoy
Book Ontario’s
and Lyrics by Oscar Hammerstein West
II
Coast
Adapted for the Stage by Tom Briggs
NEW
Bistro Sunday
Join Us!
From the Teleplay by Robert L. Freedman
NOVEMBER 23 - DECEMBER 31
The prince is giving a ball and you’re invited! Dream and the impossible
becomes possible in this musical adventure for the whole family.
theRed Pump
519.672.8800
Bayeld, Ontario
grandtheatre.com
Canada N0M 1G0
Serving Lunch
and Dinner
Seasonal Hours
Always Closed
Mondays
Reservations
Recommended
Book Now for your Christmas Party
& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S.,
Grand Bend
“Country Dining
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Untitled-2 Untitl Untitled-2 ed-2 11 1 11/08/2011 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2 11/08/2011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 011 9:40:56 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:4 9:40:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 0:56 AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM
Untitled-2 1 11/08/2011 9:40:56 AM
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32 www.eatdrink.ca
In 2012,
Tamarine
will usher in the
Year of the
Dragon
with a delicious
Prix-Fixe Menu
№ 32 | November/December 2011
An Inspiring and
Modern
Long Phan and sister chefs Quynh and Nhi
are successfully pushing the culinary
boundaries without breaking the principles
of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. Dishes are
colourful, avourful, delicate and rened.

Innovative Interpretation of
№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 33
South Vietnamese Cuisine
tamarine
by Quynh Nhi
romantic
exotic
memorable
sleek and urban chic
with stunning fresh avours
Gift
Certicates
Available
118 Dundas Street
just east of Talbot
519.601.8276
www.tamarine.ca

34 www.eatdrink.ca
The BUZZ ... new and notable
Feel like hibernating? Don’t give in! There are plenty of
reasons to get out of the house this winter, and enjoy
yourself at local restaurants and area destinations
and events. And don’t forget: not all of the farmers’
markets have closed for the season — many are indoors now,
where it’s cosy!
Fanshawe Pioneer Village has some special seasonal oerings.
Spend an evening with Charles Dickens at a Dickens Dinner.
On the eve of his 200th birthday, enjoy a traditional Christmas
dinner with Dickens, followed by a recitation of a selection of
his most famous stories. Friday and Saturday, November 25 &
26, and December 2, 3, 9, & 10. Advance tickets required; $50
each plus HST; maximum of 50 tickets per performance. www.
fanshawepioneervillage.ca
Families are invited to a Visit with St. Nicholas at Fanshawe
Pioneer Village. Enjoy a hot pancake breakfast, followed by a
baked gingerbread man to decorate for dessert. Hop aboard
a horse-drawn wagon for a beautiful winter ride around the
Village and visit a selection of buildings preparing for Christmas.
Of course the day wouldn’t be complete without a visit from St.
Nicholas himself, who drops by to see each child. Weekends,
December 3–11 (see website for times). Advance tickets required;
$13.00/ person plus HST for anyone over the age of one. www.
fanshawepioneervillage.ca
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Festive Chocolate and Baking Workshop is back by
popular demand! Join Chef Roland Hofner at Eldon House
Interpretive Centre to create two traditional holiday treats.
Participants will make delicious cookies and chocolates while
learning the history of chocolate and baking techniques. Sunday
December 4, 1–4 PM. $30.00 includes supplies. Call 519-661-0333 to
register. www.eldonhouse.ca/
The Verandah Café has always been as much about the party
as it is the café. The 25-year-old landmark, legendary for its
high-spirited eccentricity, has closed. “Dear friends, family and
devoted patrons of 25 years: It is true; the Verandah Café has come
to an end. Mostly not by our choice,” stated a message posted on
the restaurant’s Facebook page by proprietors Wally Downham
and Steven Moeller. Although The Verandah was popular, and
Downham and Moeller paid the rent, there was an ongoing issue
with the owner of the building at 546 Dundas St. East, reportedly
related to mortgage payments.
“We had been locked out ... and cannot see a future at this point,
so we have taken the drastic step to sadly hang up our hats and put
our feet up until we nd a new chapter in our lives, wherever it may
be,” they wrote. The sudden news surprised their large and devoted
clientele, who patronized The Verandah not just for the prix xe
menu but to unwind and enjoy the nightly revelry.
BILLY’S DELI RESTAURANT
113 Dundas St., London
519-679-1970
Tuesday–Saturday 7:30 AM−3 PM • Sunday 9 AM–2 PM
− Pregame Meal 5 PM PM
From all of us at Billy’s
“Merry Christmas
& Happy New Year”
Order your
holiday pies early —
Mrs. Billy’s
Christmas Mincemeat
is a yearly favourite!

Holiday Foods.
Holiday gift baskets made to order
and can include cheeses, condiments
and salami including our specially
Christmas-themed products.
Christmas-themed wrapped salami
ranging from 500 grams to 2.8 kilos –
perfect for corporate gifts.
Metzger.
A German butcher right in our own backyard.
Hensall, Ontario.
Open six days a week.
www.metzgermeats.com
Known by the best chefs in Ontario – and discerning
home cooks – as a premium producer, Metzger’s
uses the best raw ingredients, with local meats and
traditional recipes. The result is healthier products,
fashionable presentations of ready-to-cook meats,
and delicious traditionally-smoked German delights.
Join us on Facebook
under Metzger Meat Products
for recipes and specials!

36 www.eatdrink.ca
Plan ahead to enjoy the 2012 London Wine and Food Show —
January 12 thru 14. The three-day show kicks o Thursday night
with a Corporate Mixer — an evening of sampling and socializing
for local businesses. The popular Girls Night Out will be Friday,
with swag bags for the rst 250 lucky ladies through the doors.
www.westernfairdistrict.com
Downtown London recently recognized the multiple
generations of the Smith family who have worked over 130 years,
and continue to work, at Covent Garden Market. The roots of
the Smith family are planted deeply in the downtown soil. Going
way back to its early days, Chancey Smith was a vegetable seller
at the open-air market downtown. Paul Smith Senior started
“When food matters,
The Garlic Box
brings the very
best to your table.”
Melted Brie
with Tapenade
Ingredients
1 small round Brie
2 tbsp Olive Tapenade with Garlic
Directions
Cut the rind off top of Brie and spread
with Olive Tapenade with Garlic.
Microwave 1 minute on high.
Serve with crackers or bread pieces.
Visit www.thegarlicbox.com for
spectacular holiday recipes!
toll free 1.888.772.9994 • Hensall, ON
Available at Jill’s Table, Kingsmills, Remark Fresh Market & Bradshaws (Stratford)
№ 32 | November/December 2011
at the market selling celery, which was new to this area. He then
opened a market restaurant where he made donuts, and nally
opened a cheese shop in 1959. His son Paul ran Paul’s Place deli
in the old market building and started Hasbeans in 1969.
Fast-forward to present day, and the Smith family market
tradition continues. Paul’s daughter Debbie McMillan and
grandson Joel McMillan also work at Hasbeans, a popular coee
shop in the market. Grandson Dan Smith and his wife Glenda
have also contributed to the family’s market tradition, taking over
operation of the cheese shop from grandfather Paul. Glenda Smith
currently operates Smith Cheese, with help from their daughter
Danielle. She also runs Glenda’s, a popular stall oering a wide
selection of dips, sauces, olives and other tasty treats.
Mike Smith, local restaurant/bar magnate, whose empire
includes: Joe Kool’s, Jim Bob Rae’s, The Runt Club, Fellini
Koolini’s and P Za Pie in London and a Joe’s Kools in Troy, MI,
was out of town and unable to attend and passed along this
message: “I’d like to apologize to Paul for not being here while he is
being honoured. Without Paul’s help, I am 100% sure that I would
not be in the restaurant and hospitality business today. I knew
nothing about product, suppliers, costing and all the other tidbits
about running a food operation, until Paul patiently mentored
me in all aspects of the game. (A lot of my customers over the
years would still say I still know nothing.) Without Paul’s help and
encouragement, it just wouldn’t have happened for me. And what
did Paul ask of me in return? Absolutely nothing. While I wanted to
pay him for all his help, he refused to take anything and I realized
that sometimes the greatest reward is knowing you did the right
thing. For this, I am unbelievably grateful to him, and it’s a lesson
that I’ll never forget. Thanks Paul, for all you and the family have
done for Covent Garden Market, Downtown London, and me.”
The Springs is London’s newest and highly anticipated gourmet
refuge on Springbank Drive, under the creative genius and culinary
guidance of Chef Andrew Wolwowicz. The smartly appointed
restaurant, housed in a beautifully refurbished church at 31
Springbank Drive, has been operating since mid-October. We are
already hearing rave reviews about Wolwowicz’s interesting menus,
listing dishes crafted from local, regional and seasonal ingredients.
Local entrepreneurs/restaurateurs Tim and Laura Owen tell
eatdrink that although they were initially hoping for a soft opening,
the restaurant has been busy every single night since opening.
The light-lled dining room seats 70, the beautifully
appointed patio 32 and the downstairs banquet room 40. The wall

№ 32 | November/December 2011
colours are muted, fresh, organic and natural. A commissioned
painting of a tree by artist Jade Brown adds a thoughtprovoking
focal point and ambience to the entrance.
“You know it’s a good party when you end up in the
kitchen,” says Wolwowicz, a proponent of the open kitchen. In
collaboration with the Owens, Wolwowicz helped design every
detail of the restaurant and kitchen to create a welcoming and
accessible environment. There is an additional prep/pastry
kitchen in the basement.
A “local” culinary ambassador with over 20 years of
professional expertise, Wolwowicz is a prominent gure in
London’s culinary community. He chefs at the full degree of
his capability, with nely tuned instincts, skill, dedication,
precision, creativity and passion. The Springs is proud to use
the nest locally grown products from farms specializing in
sustainable agriculture, organic growing practices and ethicallyraised
livestock, and is well on its way to becoming a regional
culinary landmark. www.thespringsrestaurant.com
Windemere Café recently announced that Chef Michael
G. Stark has accepted the position of Executive Chef. Chef
Stark brings over 15 years of experience in roles of increasing
responsibility within the hospitality industry, including over 5
years with the Ritz Carlton hotel group in Grand Cayman and
most recently as Executive Chef at Blue Ginger.
The London German-Canadian Club, nestled at the bottom
of Cove Road, down the hill from Archies on Wharnclie, has
been providing authentic German food for its members since 1951.
The licensed club restaurant is now open to the general public for
dinner on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays (6 PM to
9 PM, to 10 PM on Fridays). Chef Dragan Vojinovic oers a simple
and delicious menu that includes traditional favourites such as
goulash, schnitzel, pork hocks, rouladen, cabbage rolls, bratwurst,
sauerkraut, red cabbage, and potatoes. You can polish these o with
sweet European-style crepes lled with chocolate, jam, walnuts or
fruit. Entrees range from $6.85 to $14.55. The Club also has several
attractive meeting rooms, including a charming ballroom (with a
small stage) that can hold up to 400 people, and on-site catering is
available. www.germmancanadianclublondon.com
Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is very excited to present their
new winter menu for both lunch and dinner. As always, they
oer a “personalized” catering service which allows the client
to have a direct inuence in planning a menu. Blackfriars also
recently welcomed Steven Burns to their kitchen’s stellar
international team of chefs.
We are all missing uber-barman Greg Simpson (former poster
boy for Downtown London) at Waldo’s on King. And Matt
McKenzie, long-time Waldo’s server, has also moved, over
to the Marienbad. Also, big congratulations are in order to
Waldo’s Manager Joe Duby, who got married this summer.
Terry Kong and Brennan Berlemont are opening Café
Sentral next to Jambalaya on Dundas Street.
Marc Forrat of Forrat’s Chocolates is partnering with
Matthew Scanlan and Kristen Heidt in Forrat’s Chocolates
and Lounge, which opened in Byron at the end of October. The
lounge serves specialty coees, hot chocolates, and wine, paired
with Forrat’s famous chocolate creations, all made on-site, in

Hands-On Cooking!
Classes for both Novice and Advanced Cooks, based on
themes of Gourmet International Cuisine and Special Diets.
Classes held at the Covent Garden Market,
Cooking Courses at the Carolinian Winery
Cook up
a storm,
and laugh
a lot!
Suki Kaur-Cosier
519 657 0722 www.cookingmatters.ca
“Reasonably priced, fresh,
well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...”
— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine
№ 32 | November/December 2011
small batches. The lounge will also be the launching place for
Marc’s newest culinary invention, a chocolate drink called Velvet,
that can be mixed with alcohol or coee, or enjoyed on it’s own.
www.forratschocolates.ca
David Chapman has left his managerial role at Katana Kafé to
concentrate on his eponymous David’s Bistro. The very talented
Chef Yvonne Vandervloet has taken on David’s Katana duties as
of mid-October.
Tamarine by Quynh Nhi is celebrating its rst anniversary with
a special three-course prix xe menu for $25, November 1–12.
Buy two appertizers and get one free, and enjoy $5 martinis and
cocktails. www.tamarine.ca
The new facility at Museum London, The River Room, as with
everything related to North Moore Catering, relates back to the
time (2001-07) when owner Jess Jazey-Spoelstra lived in NYC.
The River Room café will be open Tuesday–Friday, 11 AM–4 PM, and
the owners are anticipating opening for Sunday Brunch starting
in the spring. The entire venue has been gutted (including the
old curved ceiling), and they are raising the ceiling as high as
they can! The room will be tted with AV equipment so they can
introduce “lunch and learn” sessions. Everything on the menu
will be $10, made from scratch. Weekly specials will include:
handmade pasta (gnocchi, ravioli, tagliatelli etc.), crêpes, quiche
and sandwiches, all of which will be accompanied by a side salad.
They will also oer two entrée-size salads.
The River Room will be open evenings for private dining,
Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 39
weddings, dinner parties, cocktail parties, holiday parties,
business dinners, etc. The café will also open one night a month
for dinner “by reservation only” for seasonal dinners & wine
pairings. Cooking classes, oral & decor classes will be oered on
site as well. www.theriverroom.ca
Eatdrink magazine congratulates Master of Hospitality, Rebecca
Vernon for 25 years of outstanding service at Hilton London.
Drop by JJ Keys upstairs on the 2nd oor, where Rebecca tends
bar Monday to Friday evenings. Speaking of masters of hospitality,
Callie Wenger is also celebrating 25 years at the Marienbad.
Tania Auger has opened Zebra Bar — or Z Bar — as regulars
refer to it in Sarnia. Auger, who grew up in Sarnia, returned
in 1997 after a 10+ year stint as owner of 99 King in London.
Auger has been head honcho, decorator, principal bartender,
and culinary doyenne at all her former businesses, which include
Smoked Oyster and Red Tango. Auger’s Lola’s Lounge on
Christina Street is celebrating its 12th year and is as popular as
ever. Zebra Bar is open Monday to Saturday 11 AM–2 AM.
The Little Inn of Bayeld is oering a couple of enticing
holiday getaway packages. The Three-Night Luxury in the
Country Christmas Holiday (December 24-27) includes three
nights’ accommodation, Christmas Eve Innkeeper’s Reception,
Christmas Eve dinner, two nights of classic Christmas movies,
continental breakfast Christmas morning, Christmas Day Brunch,
Christmas Day Dinner, Hot Boxing Day Country Breakfast, guided
snowshoeing/hike and refreshments, Boxing Day Lunch, Wine
Tasting Dinner, and a hot country breakfast on the 27th.
The Two-Night New Year’s Getaway (December 30-January
1) package includes the Gala Dinner Dance on the 31st with a six
course dinner and French Champagne at midnight, and dancing
to the smooth sounds of the in-house band throughout the
evening. Enjoy a hearty country breakfast each morning, one
lunch and one a la carte dinner, a guided walk or snowshoe on
the River Trails, and a ballroom dancing lesson prior to the gala
(with transportation). Dinner and brunch menus are online at
www.littleinn.com.
Cathy Bingham from Tourism Oxford County, tells us that
cheesemaker Shep Ysselstein had close to 2,000 well-wishers
attend the grand opening of highly anticipated Gunn’s Hill
Artisan Cheese amidst downpours and high winds in mid-
October. gunnshillcheese.ca
Stratford Tourism Alliance was presented with the Culinary
Tourism Leadership Award for the Savour Stratford Perth
County culinary initiative at the 2011 Ontario Tourism Awards
ceremony on October 4th, in Hamilton. This award recognizes
Stratford and Perth County for building an authentic “food
culture” and promoting culinary tourism and local food. In just
four short years, the Stratford Tourism Alliance has established
Stratford and Perth County, in partnership with local producers,
chefs, restaurants and retailers, as a leading culinary destination
in the province. The award recognizes the dedication and eorts
of sta and volunteers to create culinary experiences ranging
from hands-on learning packages, Epicurean Treks, Culinary
Your love of all things Italian begins at

MARCH 24 & 25, 2012
LONDON CONVENTION CENTRE
A full array of culinary exhibitors!
Enjoy Pelee Island Winery seminars
at the new Sip, Savour Stage and
cooking demonstrations presented
by magazine at the
Cooking Stage!
Book your booth now!
519-263-5050
www.womenslifestyleshow.ca
join us on facebook
e-mail: womenrock@bayleygroup.com
LEXUS OF LONDON
LEXUS OF LONDON
sponsored by:
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Walking Tours, the Chocolate Trail, Delicious Stratford menus, an
annual Food Summit and an award-winning Culinary Festival.
Shawn Hartwell is changing up his strategy at Stratford’s
Simple Fish & Chips after a very busy two years. As of Nov.
8, Simple Fish Company is scaling back the restaurant and
adding a fresh sustainable seafood market, selling only certied
sustainable sh, prepared items like ceviche and freshly shucked
oysters, and a simplied menu featuring one, maybe two, weekly
sh & chip specials. www.simpleshandchips.ca/
Foster’s Inn presents an exciting Dinner & Concert series on
Thursdays in November and December. Enjoy an intimate live
concert along with dinner, as Colleen Brown, Emma Lee, Oh
Susanna, and more entertain. Dinner starts at 6:30 PM, and the
concert is at 8 PM. Tickets are $45 for dinner and concert, or $15
for concert only. Stay over for a special rate of $99 per person.
111 Downie Street, Stratford. www.fostersinn.com.
For those who love chocolate, mark November 6 on your calendar,
as Rheo Thompson Candies hosts its Holiday Open House
from 11 AM to 3 PM. When you open the doors, the aroma will entice
you and the festive displays will inspire you with the best of
the season. Enjoy seasonal treats and holiday cheer at 55 Albert
Street, Stratford. www.rheothompson.com
“Culinary Conversations” with Cherie Thompson from
Behind the Kitchen Door is a new series of presentations and
tastings at Turnbull & Stewart. The topic on November 10 is
salad, and participants receive specials on products in addition to
tips and samples. Beginning at 7 PM, at 459 Erie Street, Stratford.
Tickets are $40 (includes HST). 519-305-3663 or
www.turnbullstewart.com
On November 19, “Culinary Conversations” oers Major
Craig’s Award-Winning Chutneys — North India, A Pâté
with Cranberry, Big Python Jerk, and Butternut and Beer.
Taste the avours they add to grilled meat, chicken, burgers or
in sauces, an easy “Wow!” for menu planning. From 1–3 PM at 459
Erie Street, Stratford. 519-305-3663; www.turnbullstewart.com
The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop in Stratford hosts Perth/
Oxford Terroir — Local Fruit Wine and Local Cheese Pairing
on November 12, from 3–5 PM. Dyann Birtch from Birtch Estate
Winery and Farms will guide pairings of local avours of
Monforte Dairy, C’est Bon Cheese, and Best Baa Co-operative
with their unique wines. Tickets are $35, available via 519-814-9439
or at www.themilkywhey.com.
On November 19, meet the wine star, Beaujolais, as The
Milky Whey serves up a great selection of cheese to accompany
this seasonal wine. Accredited sommelier Bob Latham will pour
several qualities of Beaujolais.
On November 26, Bob and The Milky Whey owner Liz
Payne will introduce you to an impressive selection of wine
and seasonal cheeses. Taste and discuss wine pairings for
holiday menus, and sample cheeses available only during this
season. Both events will run from 3 to 5 PM at 118 Ontario Street,
Stratford. Tickets are $45 each and available online at www.
visitstratford.ca or by calling 1-800-561-7926.
Discover the art of pairing tea and chocolate, surrounded by over
100 loose-leaf teas. You will be guided through the pure bliss of

№ 32 | November/December 2011
tasting and pairing as you nd your favourite! November 12 at
Tea Leaves Tea Tasting Bar, 433 Erie Street. Tickets are $30 and
available through 519-273-1201 or www.stratfordtealeaves.com.
Look for December’s Savour Stratford Winter Tastings on
Saturdays. Topics include: Risotto Workshop, Figgie Pudding and
all the Stung Cooking Class, Christmas Cookie Making, and
Christmas Cookie Decorating. For more information please visit
www.visitstratford.ca or call 1-800-561-7926.
Stratford Chef School once again oers its lunches and dinners
through November and December. Dinners are served Monday
to Friday at The Prune Restaurant, 151 Albert Street, Stratford.
Lunches are served Wednesday, Thursday and Friday at Rundles
Bistro, 9 Cobourg Street, Stratford. For the full schedule, please visit
www.stratfordchef.com. For reservations, email: myreservation@
stratfordchef.com or call 519-271-1414.
On December 21, celebrate foods of the season with wine
suggestions for the holidays in a Holiday Tapas class with
sommelier Peter Lavoie. There will be 8 wines and 4 tapas-sized
dishes to accompany. The class will start at 7 PM and is $80 per
person, with some of the proceeds going to the “Support a
Student Chef” program. The Prune Restaurant, 151 Albert
St, Stratford. Call 519-670-8016 or email lavoiep@rogers.com.
Taj Fine Dining, “The Crown of Indian Flavours,” oers a
combination of traditional and modern Indian home-style food
and welcoming service. Taj opened its doors at 161 Downie Street,
Stratford, this summer. 519-271-2424
Welcome to
Fanshawe College’s strong commitment to using local
and sustainable foods is reflected in the advanced
dishes oered at Saron’s. Menus change regularly,
giving our students a practical learning experience
in a fine dining restaurant, and a true understanding
of what it takes to work in the hospitality industry.
Saron’s is open to the public mid-September through
April, with a modified schedule in May and June.
Saffron’s
at Fanshawe College
“A Taste of Europe”
Murder Mystery
Dinner Theatre
The Marienbad provides the perfect atmosphere for the
“Crime of Your Life!” as you enjoy a delicious prix-xe
3-course meal in the circa 1854 replace-lit dining room.
Perfect for company Christmas parties!
BOOK NOW!
Christmas
Luncheons & Dinners
Private Banquet Rooms for up to 80
122 Carling Street (at Talbot)
519-679-9940 www.marienbad.ca
Open Daily for Dinner
Lunch Monday-Saturday
where theory meets
hands-on hospitality
Saron’s Fine Dining
“A” Building, Fanshawe College,
1001 Fanshawe College Blvd., London
Open Monday to Friday
Reservations taken
from 11:30am–1pm and 6pm–7:30pm
519-452-4433
www.fanshawec.ca/tourism

42 www.eatdrink.ca
The Parlour’s Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre is a terric
evening of mystery and laughter on November 19. A gastronomic
three-course dinner in Stratford teamed with a night of humour
and entertainment — the perfect solution for your group
Christmas party! Come and bring your friends or meet new
ones. 101 Wellington St., Stratford. 6:30 PM–10:30 PM, $40. For
reservations, call 519-271-2772 or www.theparlour.ca.
On November 26 and 27, tour ve of Stratford’s nest
contemporary homes dressed for the season by local designers
during the IODE Yuletide Tour of Homes. You will be inspired
by innovative designs, and enjoy homemade shortbread, hot
mulled cider, and chocolates from Rheo Thompson Candies
True Canadiana
“One of the Lake Erie shore’s most exceptional bed and
breakfasts.... a tour de force of tempting choices.”
— Jannette Higgins,
The Best Places to B&B in Ontario
205 Main Street, Port Stanley ON
- -
www.telegraphhouse.com
A Heritage B&B & Bistro
LUXURY JACUZZI SUITES
December
BAKE SALES
Sundays @ Noon
seasonal pies, tourtière,
pineapple fruit cakes
and more!
Winter Sleep
& Dine
$199.00 for 2
-Course Dinner
& Overnight
Accommodation
Accommodation
Telegraph House
HERITAGE INN
№ 32 | November/December 2011
as part of your ticket. Tickets are $15 and available from Marjorie
Gibson at 519 -271-9132 or Mary Bondi at 519-271-5522.
Chef Mark Brown meets you in the kitchen at Stone Maiden
Inn in a Winter Warm-up Cooking Class on November 26 .
Hearty stews, dumplings, soups, and drinks comprise the menu
for this hands-on class. The class starts at 2 PM at the Stone
Maiden Inn, 123 Church Street, Stratford. Tickets are $99. www.
visitstratford.ca / 1-800-561-7926.
Stratford Farmers’ Market runs Saturdays 7 AM to 12 noon. It’s
brimming with fresh produce, local cheese, meats, preserves and
baked treats. The Rotary Complex–Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Road,
Stratford. www.stratfordfairgrounds com
Visit the Slow Food Perth County Market in its winter location,
in the cellar of Anything Grows, 235 St. Patrick Street, Stratford
(Stratford’s rst brewery site). On Sundays from 10 AM to 2 PM, the
market showcases farmers and producers that follow the good, fair
and clean principles of Slow Food. www.slowfoodperthcounty.ca
Steed & Company Lavender (just outside Sparta) will be
holding their annual Christmas Open House on November 26 &
27. They will be serving lavender cider and lavender cake. www.
steedandcompany.com
Heritage Line Herbs Christmas Open House takes place
November 19 & 20. Sample Heritage Line Herbs’ herb products and
other gourmet foods, as well as many stocking stuer sales. Gift
baskets and gift certicates are available. Other vendors will be in
attendance both days. www.heritagelineherbs.com
Ilderton’s Rich Hunter tells us that he’ll have genuine English caskconditioned
ale arriving at his King Edward Restaurant & Pub
mid-December from Fuller’s and possibly Gales. Fuller’s ESB is a lock as
we go to press, so real-ale fans will enjoy a genuine taste of England.
Farm to freezer: The Whole Pig delivers a variety of high-quality
pork products from their farm near Dashwood, and they are now
expanding. They will continue to oer one-quarter, half, and
whole pig packages, and have added just-what-you-want custom
ordering, as well as specialty packages for gifts, and fundraisers.
You can also pick up yourself at the farm. www.thewholepig.ca
Gift Ce Ce C rtifica ca c tes Available! vailable! v
Featuring Local
Farm to Table
Cuisine
LIVE MUSIC
Sunday Acoustic
Brunch
Book now for f your y Christmas get toget gethers
OVER OVER THE THE BRIDGE, BRIDGE, BEFORE BEFORE THE THE BEACH
BEACH

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 43

LAVENDER BLUE
is now
growers & creators of ne lavender products
DISCOVER
Steed & Company Lavender, part of a
45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta
INDULGE
in our unique handcrafted lavender products
ESCAPE
in the wonderful scent
and calming powers of lavender
519-494-5525
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
buds@steedandcompany.com
Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4
Mother’s Day through Christmas
www.steedandcompany.com
Christmas
Open House
November
26 & 27
Restaurant Equipment & Supply
Serving the Industry since 1944
Complete lines of equipment, cookware, china,
glassware, stainless steel and much, much more!
Open to the Public: Mon. - Fri. 8–5, Sat. 10–2
234 William St., London • 519-438-2991 • resco@start.ca
www.rescolon.ca • 1-800-265-5904 • Fax: 519-432-0904
Old Style Service...
...Wholesale Prices
№ 32 | November/December 2011
This fall, the International Economic Development Council
(IEDC) presented Elgin County with two awards in recognition of
its excellent marketing materials for promoting culinary tourism.
IEDC Awards recognize the world’s best economic development
programs and partnerships, marketing materials, and the year’s
most inuential leaders. This year Elgin County received an award
for their Savour Elgin Culinary Guide and the Savour Elgin
website, www.savourelgin.ca.
Direct Farm Marketing Workshop, Lucan Community
Centre, November 16, 8:30–11:30 AM For information and to
register, contact Sabrina Langill, County of Middlesex, Economic
Development & Planning Coordinator, 519-434-7321, ext. 2251, or
info@investinmiddlesex.ca
Forage Focus 2011 Conference, Shakespeare Optimist Centre,
Shakespeare. November 30. www.ontarioforagecouncil.com/
Eastern Ontario Local Food Conference: Scaling Up Our
Regional Food System, University of Guelph, Kemptville Campus,
takes place December 1, to facilitate stronger relationships among
local food groups and provide technical information on key
topics. Keynote speaker Tom Stearns, President of Centre for an
Agricultural Economy and High Mowing Seeds in Vermont, will
discuss key elements of success that Vermont has built upon to
foster agricultural initiatives.
New Agri-Tourism Toolkit — There are many dierent things
that need to be considered when changing your focus from
being solely a farm operator to becoming a tourism operator and
welcoming visitors onto your farm. For more information, go to
www.osw-agritourismtoolkit.com/
To better spread “The Buzz,” eatdrink is now at
facebook.com/eatdrinkmag and twitter.com/
eatdrinkmag. Let us help you get the word out about
your business too. We’ll be retweeting, posting to our
Facebook page, and printing all the news we can t in
this space. Let’s get better connected!
Our readers want to know, so send us info about
culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news.
With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to:
editor@eatdrink.ca.

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 45
culinary retail
e eatdrink Epicure’s Gift Guide
By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD
Buying a present for a foodie can be a
daunting experience, given the vast
array of products on the market.
Quality, functionality, and a unique
feature or two are all top concerns, since
most foodies are discriminating by nature.
Taking all this into consideration, here are
some holiday suggestions spanning a variety
of budgets, from some of our local sources.
Every cook needs a place to store knives that
keeps them close to hand
and safe. e Bodum
Bistro Knife Block does
both — as well as being
attractive and easy
to clean. Tiny plastic
strands within the block
also allow favourite
knives to be snugly
inserted anywhere
on the block — no
need for guesswork.
(Knives not included in the
price). $49.95 at Bradshaws,
129 Ontario Street, Stratford, www.bradshawscanada.com
e Trudeau Wine Aerator (with an impressive
ve-year warranty) improves the taste
and bouquet of any wine and does so one
glass at a time. With a simple transparent
device that ts easily
onto the bottle,
wine is aerated
both in the bottle
and then again during
pouring. is is
a sleek and classy
gift that ensures
one never again has
to wait for the wine
to breathe.
$24.99 at Foodies of Grand
Bend, 13 Main Street West,
Grand Bend, www.
foodiesgrandbend.com
Make your own carbonated drinks
at home with a streamlined elegant
unit called SodaStream.
(ere are various styles to
choose from, some with
glass carafes.) e list of
avours available is very
impressive — from Diet
Cola to Green Tea Pomegranate
Peach. Fizziness
and sweetness can be
adjusted to suit your own
preference. Adding a
splash of plain soda water
to fruit juices provides
the perfect virtuous “pop”
for children. Great to have
on hand for holiday cocktails, too! e
SodaStream also packs environmental heft
since it sidesteps the production, storage
and disposal of all those plastic bottles.
From $199.00, at Jill’s Table, 115 King Street, London,
www.jillstable.ca
Billed as an “immersion blender,” the
Swiss-made Bamix is so much more.
Unlike many food processors and blenders,
the slim Bamix takes up little room on
the counter. From liquidizing to mincing
tough meat fibres, this is the
favourite of Gordon Ramsay,
who can be seen on You-
Tube heaping (profanityfree!)
praise on it. If that
doesn’t impress, there
is a ten-year (limited)
warranty for this product,
which is extremely
well-made and multifunctional.
Various models available from
$159.99 up, at Kingsmills,
130 Dundas Street, London,
www.kingsmills.com

46 www.eatdrink.ca
At this busy time of year, make “cheating”
legit (and preferable!) with this stunning new
tin from Nordic Ware. At last a Ginger bread
House that requires no assembly — bake,
then go right to the icing! And what better to
lift it from the oven than a pair of Trudeau
Oven Gloves. With actual
ngers and ame-resistant
weaving, these gloves oer
both control and protection.
Ideal present for any
baker, especially those who
have been burned once too often!
Gingerbread House Tin - $39.99 (reg. $44.99); Gloves, set of two —
Intro price $29.99 (reg. $39.99), both at Kulpepper’s Kitchen Store,
168 Court House Square, Goderich, 519-524-9157
Nine stone cubes, once chilled and added to a
glass, will cool whisky to just the right temperature
— with zero dilution. Milled in Vermont
by the oldest soapstone workshop
in the US, these “Whisky Stones”
need only a quick rinse and can
be used again and again. Use
three cubes per glass for the
swooningly perfect dram.
Store tidily in the muslin bag.
$29.99 at Kiss the Cook,
551 Richmond Street,
www.kissthecook
online.com
№ 32 | November/December 2011
For precise, professional and predictable
results, a Mandoline is the most reliable
way to slice everything from paper-thin
scalloped potatoes to carrot sticks to
perfectly julienned veggies that will cook
uniformly. You can also adjust the blade
settings to cut ribbons of zucchini, citrus
slices, a wisp of pear for a brie sandwich,
and so much more. is particular model
by OXO provides both safety and user
comfort. With a soft grip holder for food
to keep hands out of the way, wide, nonslip
feet, and blades that are covered when
not in use, this is an excellent, safe product,
with the OXO customer satisfaction
guarantee behind it. e whole thing also
folds neatly for ease of storage.
$75.00 at Restaurant Equipment & Supply Co. Ltd.,
234 William Street, London, (519) 438-2991, www.rescolon.ca
SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer who
also works in the London Public Library system. She lives in
London with her teenage sons and a floating population of
dogs and cats.

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 47
BEER MATTERS
beer matters
Battle of the West Coast IPAs
Ontario Has Embraced Intense India Pale Ales
By THE MALT MONK
As we move from late fall into
winter, I’m still enjoying the fall
season fest beers in local circulation.
We have a great selection at
the LCBO, as well as from our local crafters,
who are putting their twist on the traditional
beers of the fall season — Oktoberfest Marzens,
Amber Pumpkin Ales, Bocks, Stouts
and Porters. I’m also in the midst of brewing
my own special ale for the winter season,
as well as undergoing my side-by-side taste
tests of the West Coast India Pale Ales that
have ooded the local market.
When I say “ooding” the market, I mean
it as a positive development. Craft beer
fanciers can’t get
enough of a good
thing. For years,
when the great
West Coast IPAs
rst exploded
on the craft
beer scene,
we here in
Ontario were
missing out.
Agents were
too timid to
import, and
local crafters
were too conservative
to brew such an intense, huge-
avoured ale — afraid of the consequence
of consumer rejection, perhaps. Fortunately,
the market was always here for intense
IPAs — it just needed to be tapped. At any
rate, the local market is now awash in this
big hoppy ale style from local and import
crafters, and the local craft beer culture is
lapping it up.
e West Coast Style of India Pale Ale
First o, it’s probably worth mentioning how
a West Coast IPA diers from traditional IPA,
and how it evolved into its own discrete style.
India Pale Ale evolved in Britain in the eighteenth
century as a stronger, well-hopped
export ale for the Indian subcontinent. West
Coast India Pale Ale (WCIPA) is a more
robust modern American version of this historical
English style, brewed using American
ingredients and boundary-pushing attitude.
WCIPAs are brewed with hop cultivars
developed and grown in the Pacic
Northwest hop-growing regions of
Yakama and Willamette valleys. e
recipes usually include a blend of PNW hop
varieties such as Cascade, Chinook, Centennial,
Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, Tomahawk,
Warrior, and Nugget. ese varieties
impart the grapefruit, orange, citrus, lychee,
apricot, mango and piney aromas/tastes
unique to WCIPAs. West Coast brewers also
add hops to their IPAs in at least four of the
brewing stages — the boil, hopback infusion,
dry hopped in fermenting, conditioning
and kegging. As a result WCIPAs run
about 60–70 IBUs in bitterness.
Add to this a rich mix of semi- and fully
caramelized specialty malts suited to a
high original gravity wort from single-temperature
infusion mashing, and
you can start to understand the
unique nature of the WCIPA —
big hop presence (60–70 IBU)
balanced with rich
malting. It has an
intense aromatic
olfactory sensation,
with pungent
tones of grapefruitcitrus-mango
and
a toee undertone
from a cara-malt
base. e colour
ranges from deep gold
to burnished copper,
and the huge puy
meringue-like caps
last well, with a rich

48 www.eatdrink.ca
sticky/chewy mouth feel. e general avour
prole of WCIPA has big toee-caramel malts
that appear in the front, then this rich malting
is quickly eclipsed by ample hopping, giving a
resinous-fruity complexity on the palate. is
is followed by a long nish, where maltiness
diminishes, and bittering and drying increase
to a nice sharp hop bite at the end.
Disciples of the WCIPA loved this combination
of fragrant hoppy-citrus-toee brew
so much they created an even more intense
version they call the “double” or “imperial”
IPA. e imperial version of the WCIPA
usually starts by doubling the malt and hop
bill of an IPA recipe. is results in a highergravity
ale that is better attenuated and more
intense in hop presence. It is usually dryer
and more bitter than a regular WCIPA, but
with all the great pine-mango-grapefruittoee
aromas and tastes.
True Pacic Northwest IPAs available
in this market:
Paddockwood “606” — at The Beer Store (TBS) and LCBO
92344
Tree Brewing Hop Head IPA — LCBO 256586
Local Craft • Trappist • Imports
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Central City Brewing Red Racer IPA — LCBO 256594
Rogue Ales Brutal IPA — LCBO 246793
Rogue Ales Northwest Ale — LCBO 246827
Pacic Northwest styled IPAs available
and brewed in this market
Muskoka Mad Tom IPA — At TBS and LCBO 239749
Flying Monkeys SmashBomb Atomic IPA — On tap and
LCBO 256172
Black Oak Brewing Hop Bomb IPA — On Tap only
Duggan’s # 9 IPA — LCBO 188946
Southern Tier IPA — LCBO 81737
Dogsh Head 60 min. IPA — LCBO, special order
Taps Chuck Norris Roundhouse IPA — on tap at the
brewery or at Gambrinus locally
Pacic Northwest-styled Double IPAs
available in this market
Flying Monkeys Super Collider Double IPA — On Tap at
Gambrinus and soon at the LCBO
Black Oak Brewing “Ten Bitter Years” IPA — On Tap or in
bottles from brewery store
Garrison Imperial IPA — LCBO, # 173658
Southern Tier 2X IPA — LCBO, # 224220
Dogsh Head 90 min IPA — LCBO, special order
Tree Hop Head Double IPA — LCBO, seasonal
London’s Premium
BEER
DESTINATION
Featuring Fresh and Local
Seasonal Menus
for Lunch and Dinner
Homemade Sausages and
The Best Schnitzel in Town
Slow Food
Over 150 Beers,
18 Draughts,
and Real Cask Ale
Gambrinus Bistro & Café
150 King Street
Covent Garden Market
519-672-0384
www.GambrinusBistro.com

№ 32 | November/December 2011
I can condently recommend any of these ne
crafted West Coast IPAs. I hope you have the
opportunity to try most of them to discover
your favourites. And if you’re buying these
beers in their bottled version, always get the
freshest samples available so you can appreciate
the bright citrusy sunny hoppy character
of these intense brews. e hop alphas, which
give that bright aroma and sharp bite, tend to
diminish with shelf time. is is less important
with the imperial or double IPAs, as they tend
to cellar well, usually bringing the malts a bit
more forward with age.
Malt Monk’s Pick ‘O’ the Month
Central City Red Racer IPA — LCBO 256594
Red Racer is a multi-award-winning IPA that
has spearheaded the West Coast invasion of
the Ontario crafted IPA market. is Surrey,
BC, brewer has captured the essence of the
West Coast IPA style, and Red Racer is also
popular in its home province. Red Racer is
rich in West Coast hops, lush in pungent
citrus-fruity aroma, and ush with micro-
IPA avour and body. is is among Canada’s
rst WCIPAs to meet the big US micro
brewed WCIPAs head on and win in local
markets. Try one — you won’t regret it.
Odds and Suds
Brick Brewing seems to have pulled o a bit
of a brewing coup by unexpectedly producing
one of the more innovative seasonal
crafted beers of the year. Brick Waterloo
Amber is a 6.8% Marzenlike
amber lager with some
unique twists. ey use ve
specialty malts (whiskey
malt, rye malt and special
barley malts) blended with
earthy spicy Hallertau hops,
then oak-age the beer. e
result is a reddish-orange
craft lager resembling a
Marzen, with a robust
spicy-toee-herbal (lightly
smoky) avour that goes
dry in the nish. is is the
rst seasonal craft beer
Brick has produced since
the now-defunct Brick Anniversary Bock. At
the Beer Store and LCBO 263327
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a
passionate support of craft beer culture.
Social Committee, Function Room.
Function Room, Social Committee.
Now that you’ve been introduced,
might we suggest booking your
holiday party in our private
function room?
511 Talbot Street | p. 519.433.7737
www.blackshire.ca
Locally sourced & made from scratch

50 www.eatdrink.ca
wine
Local and Seasonal
Ontario Wines for Holiday Entertaining
By RICK VANSICKLE
The holiday season is fast approaching
and we’re busy shopping, planning
meals, and mapping out just
how we’re going to entertain all our
friends and family. It’s our favourite time
of the year, when joy and warmth ll our
homes, and good food, (perhaps too much
of it), is a big part of the festivities.
Wine is a special part of most holiday
entertaining. Plan carefully — the last thing
you want to do is leave it until the last minute,
when the shelves at the LCBO are picked bare
and all the good stu is long gone.
Here are some choices and styles of
Ontario wines that pair perfectly with the
season. Most of these wines should be available
now, but always check on the LCBO
website at www.lcbo.com for availability at
your closest store.
It’s a good idea to have some bubbly on
hand during the holidays. It’s perfect as
a welcoming drink or to toast family and
friends. e great thing about Ontario
sparkling wines is they are generally low in
alcohol and always high in acidity, which
means refreshing. Here are a few choices:
Peller Estates Signature Series Ice Cuvée
Rosé ($35 and also available at Vineyards
Estate Wine stores) — Peller has perfected
the art of blending in a dosage of about 15%
of Vidal and Cabernet Franc Icewine to
traditional method sparkling wine (made
with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cab Franc
grapes). is is such a magical wine with
citrus, strawberry, watermelon, raspberry,
spice, honey and toast on the nose. Simply
delicious in the mouth with a sweet, vigorous
bead of bubbles, lush red fruits of raspberry
and strawberry, and just a kiss of sweetness
to balance out the acidity.
Angels Gate Archangel Pinot Noir Rosé
2008 ($25) — Made in the traditional Champagne
method, with a strawberry-cherry
mousse nose with added yeast and fresh-
№ 32 | November/December 2011
ness. Lovely
berries on the
palate, fresh and
clean with a ne,
vigorous bead of
bubbles.
Vineland
Estates Brut
Reserve 2008
($23) — A
nose of
toast, citrus
and apple,
with a mousse
that’s tight and lively. Notes
of tangerine, citrus and toasted
vanilla in the mouth. It’s a blend of Pinot
Meunier and Pinot Blanc.
Gewurztraminer is not a wine for everybody.
But it sure goes great with the turkey
dinner. If you’re looking for something just a
little dierent this season, try these:
Jackson-Triggs Silver Series Gewurztraminer
2010 ($19, and also available at Wine
Rack stores) — Old World style of Gewurz,
with a pretty potpourri nose, grapefruit and
lychee notes. It’s soft, with a touch of honey
on the palate and ripe grapefruit, cloves and
other exotic spices.
Stratus Gewurztraminer 2009 ($32, Nov.
26 at Vintages) — A wonderful example of
this beautiful, spicy white variety. e nose
shows sweet grapefruit, cloves, nutmeg,
honeysuckle, lychee nut and lemon cream.
It’s round and voluptuous on the palate with
an oily texture, ripe fruits and gingerbreadclove
spices. Best of all, it has retained a
healthy core of acidity that shows on the
nish, inviting sip after sip.
Chardonnay — it’s always smart to have
some on hand. It has wide appeal, matches
to food nicely, and is a great sipping wine:
Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Vineyard

№ 32 | November/December 2011
Chardonnay 2009 ($40) — is is the rst
Chardonnay to be released from the 2009
vintage of Le Clos Jordanne. e nose shows
intriguing gunint, wood smoke and mineral
notes with poached pear, citrus, and a touch
of honey. A core of pear-lemon fruit in the
mouth with stony minerality, vanilla-nut
and toasty oak notes, and wonderful acidity
that washes over the palate. is would be a
great gift for someone special.
Flat Rock Cellars Estate Chardonnay
2008 ($17) — is is one heck of a chardonnay
for the price. e nose oozes minerality,
tropical fruit, and nuanced oak and spice.
Lovely in the mouth with bright tropical
fruits accented with citrus and minerals.
In a lot of ways, Pinot Noir is the perfect
holiday wine. It’s generally fruity, light in
weight and body, avourful, the perfect
match with Christmas turkey, and most
people like it. Niagara makes some great
Pinot, but here are three that are just right:
Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot
Noir 2009 ($25) — is single-vineyard
Red Paw Pinot shows highly expressive
creamy cherry fruit, spice, toasty cedar bits,
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and some bramble-forest oor notes. Love
the cherry pie avours on the palate with
touches of raspberry fruit, cedar, spice and
roasted herbs.
Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Pinot Noir
2009 ($30, Vintages, Nov. 12) —e Gravity
delivers a seductive nose of cherries, plums,
earth, cloves, and other oak-inuenced
spices. On the palate, it explodes with black
cherry, raspberry, currants and sweet plums
to go with ne tannins, minerality, toasty
spices, and layers of complexity through the
nish. Drink now or hold up to ve years.
Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 ($20)
— Even this entry-level Pinot, a blend of
several vineyards, is a superb example of
Lailey’s craftsmanship with this grape. A
nose of cherry-cranberry fruit, cloves and
vanilla. Again, classic Pinot texture in the
mouth with gorgeous red fruits, and generously
spiced from sip to swallow.
Riesling serves a lot of purposes. It’s low
in alcohol, tastes great, goes perfectly with
turkey and all the xings, and is relatively
cheap. I always have Riesling on hand for
friends and family:
№ 32 | November/December 2011
Fielding Estate Riesling 2010 ($19) —
is is Fielding’s entry-level Riesling, with a
nose of sweet citrus, lime, peach, and a hint
of minerality. Decent acid with lovely, fresh
avours in the mouth.
Vineland Estate St. Urban Vineyard
Riesling 2009 ($20) — A nose of zesty,
mineral rich citrus goodness that carries to
the palate in a pure expression of sweet-tart
citrus, minerals and racy acidity. Vineland
also makes a semi-dry Riesling that’s very
good, for only $13.
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve
Riesling 2008 ($30) — is is a thrilling wine
that will develop with ten years or more in the
bottle. Already it shows wonderful minerals,
concentrated fruits and structure. While still
tight on the nose, the palate shows structure,
juicy citrus fruits, a rm core of acidity, and
tension. is is a Riesling worthy of a great
gift for the wine lover on your list.
Consider some interesting reds. Do you
have a wine lover on your Christmas list
who appreciates the very best in local
wine? We have a suggestion for you below.
Included is a very aordable red that you
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can buy by the case that all your red-wine
lovers will like:
Stratus Red 2008 ($44, Vintages Nov.
12) — is has a beautiful nose of cassis,
raspberry, red currants, tobacco leaf, cedar
and vanilla wood. It is youthful in the mouth
with evident tannins (so cellar a bit to
round things out), but with succulent fruit,
savoury-earthy notes, integrated spices and
vanilla through a long nish. Drink now with
food or hold in cellar for a few years.
Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2010
($13) — is entry-level Cab Franc is simply
gorgeous and highly attractive at this price.
It is all about the fruit on the nose. Juicy, ripe
cassis, currants, hints of cherry, raspberry
and tobacco, with just a subtle hint of wood
spice. It gushes on the palate with deliciously
bold fruits, impeccable balance and
smooth tannins through the long nish. You
can cellar it for ten years.
Enjoy!
RICK VanSICKLE is a freelance wine writer who lives and
works in Niagara. He publishes the WinesInNiagara.com website
and can be reached at winesniagara@gmail.com.
Elgin County has an abundance
of great culinary destinations,
and we’re ready to show them o.
From ne dining to fresh produce,
farmers’ markets, wineries
and breweries, Elgin County
will satisfy every taste.
Savour the tastes of Elgin County.
www.savourelgin.ca
1-877-GO-ELGIN x168
Character
519.432.4092
481 Richmond St., London, ON
LUNCH
DINNER
SUNDAY BRUNCH

54 www.eatdrink.ca
cookbooks
Christmas in Review
Four Favourites for the Holidays
Reviews and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
Festivities got you frazzled? A little bit
of planning goes a long way to making
the holidays the most enjoyable
time of the year. Here
are some favourite Christmas
cookbooks, and selected
recipes.
Bestselling romance
author Debbie Macomber
wants to put a little spark
in your holiday season with
her Christmas Cookbook:
Favorite Recipes and
Holiday Traditions from
My Home to Yours (Harlequin,
2011, $32.95). With
the personal warmth that
has made her a beloved author for many
years, Debbie invites us to peer through a
frost-touched window to see her own family
traditions unfold through the holiday
season. Presenting the reader with over one
hundred recipes and her own decorating
and craft ideas, as well as some personal
memories of the holidays, Debbie makes
us wish Christmas was already
here.
Her old-fashioned Christmas
Tea recipes make our
mouths water for a childhood
before our own time. Anyone
who misses their Nana will
nd the chapter “Cooking with
Grandma” especially heartwarming.
And if it’s your rst
time hosting the holiday feast
this year, “Easy Family Dinners”
will make you feel like a pro.
You’ll nd some quick “got it
in the pantry” recipes, such as
the Five Minute Cranberry and Walnut Cobbler
that will make you look brilliant when
you suddenly remember that you invited the
whole oce home for a get-together tonight.
For those who like their Christmas tra-
№ 32 | November/December 2011
ditions a little less traditional, there’s e
Hairy Bikers’ 12 Days of Christmas: Irresistible,
Easy Recipes to Feed Your Friends
and Family (Dave Myers
and Si King, Weidenfeld
& Nicolson, 2010, $32.06
) With a combination of
British irreverence and
good cheer, Meyers and
King could be the lost sons
of the Two Fat Ladies. is
unlikely pair of foodies
takes us along for a merry
ride through e 12 Days of
Christmas.
Myers and King have given
us a personal book with
touches like “handwritten”
notes alongside their recipes. It makes you
feel as if the book is an old favourite, full of
well-used recipes, from the moment you
open it. New cooks may have a bit of trouble
with the UK measurements, but these fabulous
recipes are well worth the translation.
Hot chocolate made with a real vanilla bean
and freshly ground nutmeg
is enough to make anyone
wish for Christmas in jolly old
England!
For tried and tested ways
to make your celebration
picture perfect, e Martha
Stewart Living Christmas
Cookbook : A Collection of
Favorite Holiday Recipes
(editors of Martha Stewart
Living, Clarkson Potter,
2003, $45.95), is a standby.
Complete with over 600
recipes and plenty of gorgeous
photos, this is sure to inspire everyone
from the novice to the seasoned.
From serving arriving guests homemade
Spicy Pecans to presenting a traditional
roast goose, the tips and how-to illustrations

№ 32 | November/December 2011
make it easy to be the perfect holiday host.
Countdown instructions help to ensure that
everything nishes simultaneously. But the
real joy comes
from Stewart’s
infectious holiday
enthusiasm,
sweeping you
up in Christmas
cheer.
No celebration
is complete without
advice from
the editors of
Canadian Living
magazine. eir
quintessential
contribution to the holidays is
e Complete Christmas Book (Transcontinental
Books, 2007, $24.95). Packed with
easy-to-follow celebration menus, unique gifts
from the kitchen, fun family projects and loads
of decorating ideas, this book will bring the
Christmas spirit into your home.
And all the Canadian Living books come
with the “Tested Till Perfect” guarantee, so
you know that what works in their kitchen
will work in yours. Dive into their twist on
a Christmas classic, Ice-Cream Christmas
Pudding. is
simple version has
all the traditional
Christmas pudding
avours, but takes
a fraction of the
time to prepare,
and provides
a stunning
centrepiece
to nish o a
celebratory feast.
Whether your
holiday season
includes heavy
preparation or a more happy-go-lucky
approach, these books make sure you
sparkle this holiday season.
JENNIFER GAGEL is a freelance writer and regular contributor
to eatdrink. She can be contacted at jennagagel@gmail.com.
Thank you for another great year!
Happy Holidays!
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Five-Minute Cranberry and Walnut Cobbler
Recipe and photo courtesy of Harlequin
Serves 8
2½ cups (625 mL) fresh or frozen cranberries
¾ cup (175 mL) chopped walnuts
½ cup (125 mL)
¾ cup (175 mL) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
12 tbsp (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, melted
¼ tsp (1 mL) almond extract
1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose our
pinch salt
1 Preheat oven to 350ºF (180°C). In a 9-inch (23-cm) pie pan, combine
cranberries, walnuts and ½ cup (125 mL) of the sugar; toss until coated.
2 In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, melted butter, remaining sugar and
almond extract until blended. Fold in our and salt until combined. Pour
the batter over the cranberry mixture. Bake for 40 minutes, until crust is
golden and fruit bubbles. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
TIP: No cranberries? No problem. Substitute blueberries or strawberries,
but cut the sugar added to the fruit in half.
№ 32 | November/December 2011

№ 32 | November/December 2011
Spicy Pecans
Recipe courtesy of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia
Makes 5 cups
You can substitute almonds, walnuts, or
cashews for the pecans, or any combination of
mixed nuts. Store nuts in an airtight container
at room temperature for up to one week.
1 tbsp (15 mL) coarse salt
2 tbsp (25 mL) cayenne pepper
1½ tsp (7 mL) paprika
½ cup (125 mL) sugar
2 large egg whites
5 cups (1.25 L) pecan halves
1 Preheat oven to 300ºF (150°C) . Line two rimmed
baking sheets with parchment paper. In a small
bowl, combine salt, cayenne, paprika, and sugar.
2 In a medium bowl, whisk egg whites until foamy.
Whisk in spice mixture. Stir in pecans. Spread
coated pecans in a single layer on prepared baking
sheets. Bake 15 minutes, then reduce oven
temperature to 250ºF (130°C).
3 Rotate sheets in oven; cook until nuts are
browned and fragrant, about 10 minutes more.
Immediately transfer pecans in a single layer to
another sheet of parchment. Let cool.

Ice-Cream Christmas Pudding
Recipe courtesy of Transcontinental Books
Serves 12
Combine classic Christmas pudding avours with
ice cream, et voilà — an updated, simple-toprepare
dessert. The best part? You can make it up
to ve days ahead.
1 cup (250 mL) candied pineapple or candied
mixed peel
½ cup (125 mL) each, halved candied red and
green cherries
½ cup (125 mL) golden raisins
¼ cup (50 mL) brandy or rum
1 carton (4 cups / 1L) vanilla ice cream
1 cup (250 mL) chopped pecans, toasted
½ cup (125 mL) slivered almonds, toasted
1 Line 6- to 8-cup (1.5 to 2 L) pudding mould or 9-
x 5-inch (2 L) loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving
enough overhang to cover top; set aside.
2 In a large microwaveable bowl, combine
pineapple, red and green cherries, raisins and
November/December 2011
brandy; microwave at high for 2 minutes, stirring
twice. Let cool completely. (Or cover and soak at
room temperature for 8 hours or overnight.)
3 Soften ice cream in refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Stir pecans and almonds into fruit mixture; stir in
ice cream. Pack into prepared mould, smoothing
top. Cover with overhang and freeze until solid,
about 12 hours. (Make-ahead: Overwrap with
heavy-duty foil; freeze for up to 5 days.)
4 To serve, let pudding stand in refrigerator for
15 minutes. Using overhang, remove from pan.
Invert onto chilled serving plate; remove plastic
wrap. Dip sharp knife in hot water and wipe dry;
slice pudding.
ED note: Purchase a bit more than you need of the
candied fruit and nuts to garnish the pudding
before serving for a stunning presentation.

Rodgers & Hammerstein’s
CINDERELLA
Music by Richard Rodgers
Book and Lyrics by Oscar Hammerstein II
Adapted for the Stage by Tom Briggs
From the Teleplay by Robert L. Freedman
№ 32 | November/December 2011
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farmers & artisans
Creating a New Wine Region
Huron County Wine Development
By JANE ANTONIAK
The Old World adage, “If you can
grow peaches, you can grow
grapes” — and thus, make wine
— is about to be tested in Huron
County. After three years of soil and climate
testing, investors and the economic development
department, supported by wine
industry experts, are poised to start the rst
planting of grape vines, which could lead to
a new wine/tourism industry in Huron.
“ere’s a whole area along the shores
of Lake Huron where they typically grew
fruit, peach trees, a century ago,” says Mike
Pullen, Economic Development Ocer
for Huron County. “ey stopped growing
peaches for economic reasons and replaced
it with growing owers. e zone runs from
Port Albert to Grand Bend along a natural
ridge, which is three to four kilometres wide.
e height of the ridge reaches 500 feet,
which is higher than the Niagara escarpment
and so it creates the same mezzo- and
micro-climate as Niagara.”
Leading experts have been studying the
area along the shoreline to see if the colder
Huron climate would hinder the growth of
grape vines. According to Richard Fitoussi,
a retired partner in e Little Inn of Bayeld
and a lover of wine and Huron County, there
are new root stalks and grafts designed to
survive cold climates.
“I have a lot of friends
in the wine world, and
they’ve always said, ‘Where
you can grow peaches,
you can make decent
wine’ so that stuck in my
head. I was at the Bayeld
Garden Club when the
owner of Huron Ridge
(greenhouses) gave a presentation
that prompted
me to visit his operation. On the walls were
old photos of peach orchards in this area.
From then on, the ball just got rolling. But
№ 32 | November/December 2011
we wanted to take it slow and do all our
research rst before talking with investors.”
Working with the Huron Business Development
Corp, local municipalities, and the
tourism and agriculture industries in Huron,
a new group called the Huron Shore Viticulture
Network was formed this past summer.
e ultimate goal is to develop 100 acres for
growing grapes, which would lead to 300
tonnes of production and the creation of the
Huron Shores VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance)
designation — the same as has been
done in Niagara, Lake Erie North Shore,
Pelee Island and Prince Edward County.
Mike Pullen says their research has led
them to create a list of recommended varieties
of grapes that could be successfully
Exact locations remain guarded secrets, but after
extensive soil and weather testing, investors are
poised to launch Huron County’s rst winery.

№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 61
№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink
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Go ahead. Take a big bite.
Chatham-Kent | Elgin | Haldimand | London | Middlesex | Norfolk | Oxford | Sarnia-Lambton | Windsor-Essex-Pelee Island
Visit our website to browse culinary packages
that will inspire and recharge you, from romantic
getaways to an escape with friends. Go to:
www.ontariossouthwestculinary.com/packages
sources and links
highlights, visit:
com/haldimand
our mobile device by
your mobile phone.
the site via the barcode
grown in Huron, including Red Hybrids
of Baco Noir, Chambourcin, Frontenac,
Marechal Foch and Marquette. White
Hybrids would be Frontenac Gris, L’Acadie
Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc. ey
are also looking at the possibility of red
vinifera of Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir and
Pinot Noir, and white vinifera of Chardon-
nay and Riesling.
What excites Pullen and Fitoussi is the
long-term goal of creating a wine route
through the county to individual vineyards/
wineries, each with uniquely Huron County-
named brands of wine. “A wine region spurs
on greater investment in a spin-o tourism
industry” says Pullen. Fitoussi is also hoping
that his home county will then develop art
routes and a cheese industry.
e project is now into Phase ree, fol-
lowing three years of collecting data from
three weather towers and soil samples — all
of which have shown positive results for the
growing of grapes in sandy loams and clay,
high in calcium carbonate and rich in more
than 29 minerals needed for the develop-
ment of vineyards. “e homework has been
done for climate and soil, and we also have
an existing tourism infrastructure, including
ne dining, accommodations and a beauti-
ful lakeshore to go hand-in-hand with win-
eries,” says Pullen.
While the exact locations of the rst plant-
ings are not being revealed to avoid land
price gouging, both Fitoussi and Pullen
indicate that “signicant” work is planned
for the spring, with the rst vintage possibly
being made in 2015. Pullen says that a “lead-
ing viticulture consultant with international
experience” is on board and that the “largest
wine nursery in Canada” is working with
investors now.
“When one starts, many will follow,” says
Fitoussi with a smile. For him, it will mean
the culmination of a lifelong dream to see
quality wine made in his own county, and
the development of a richer art and tourism
community to enjoy in his retirement.
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink, who
has been known to enjoy the occasional sociable beverage while
overlooking Lake Huron with family and friends.

62 www.eatdrink.ca
I
was just reading through the Food
section of our local newspaper, which
featured a recipe for a honey cake
to be made for Rosh Hashanah, the
Jewish New Year celebration. e author
acknowledged that nobody really enjoys it,
but noted that the cake is part of a
very old tradition, which is apparently
reason enough to go through
the motions of making it. It seemed
to her that to not oer honey cake
would somehow be sacrilegious,
even if it went stale in the cupboard
after the considerable eort
required to bake it.
e Christmas fruitcake has also
suered a serious decline in its ability to
excite party guests, and we’ve all heard jokes
pertaining to its regifting or its potential use
as a paperweight. But fruitcake too, like the
Jewish honey cake, continues to have its place
during the holiday season, like it or lump it!
at recipe got me thinking of some of the
traditional dishes that I have come across:
some great, some horrible, that continue to
grace the tables of families across the country
on their special feast days.
I moved to California some years ago,
and the rst American anksgiving I
was invited to was at the home of a friend
who had grown up in Georgia. One of her
anksgiving Day “must-haves” was a cornbread
stung. It had the visual appeal of a
pasty porridge and a taste equally as bland,
but despite another guest bringing to the
potluck a savoury sausage stung, the table
wasn’t complete for the host without her
family “go-to” dish.
Other sides that arrived that year (and
every year to follow) were the green bean casserole
(beans smothered in cream of mushroom
soup, topped with canned fried onion
rings) and sweet potatoes with marshmallows
broiled on top. No doubt these dishes
were great hits in the ’70s before nutrition
became a serious study of interest, but people
continue to prepare them out of nostalgia,
№ 32 | November/December 2011
the lighter side
Comfort Food & Holiday Traditions
By CAROLYN MCDONELL
completely dismissing the not-so-new knowledge
that fresh ingredients are really much
healthier for you and your heart! It seems
nutritional value and good health practices
go out the window with the desire to uphold
the memories of old and the comforts of
foods from our youth. Many people
are more than willing to have
their sodium and caloric intake
skyrocket for the day, rather than
leave their much-loved recipes a
memory of the past — despite having
to shop for many ingredients in
the canned food aisle.
Perhaps much of this has to do
with the fact that many people are
not lucky enough to be sharing their special
days with their families and old friends, and
somehow creating the same meal their relatives
are making (and have made for decades)
brings back many fond memories and makes
them feel just a bit closer to home.
My family was invited to a neighbour’s
house for Christmas a few years back and
the menu consisted of prime rib of beef,
mushroom risotto and salad. Blasphemy!
I had grown up with turkey, ham, mashed
potatoes and all the xings, and this, albeit
delicious sounding menu, just seemed
wrong! I brought a sweet potato casserole, a
cranberry cake my mother always makes for
Christmas Eve, and my father’s favourite: a
mincemeat pie. No doubt they didn’t lend
sophistication to the prepared culinary feast,
but at least I felt a little closer to my roots!
e only thing that was missing was the
dessert platter, containing a delicious assortment
of squares and the Christmas cake my
mother labours over every year. It’s never
something that I enthusiastically reach for,
but there is much comfort in the fact that it’s
always there! Something like family ...
CAROLYN MCDONELL is a UWO grad now living in Los
Angeles, where she has established several new traditions while
introducing some Canadian standards to California.

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№ 32 | November/December 2011 www.eatdrink.ca 65
Chips and dip can be served as an amuse-bouche when guests
arrive. There is something comforting about the familiar potato
chip, and pecorino Romano is a favourite of Chef James Walt,
Araxi Restaurant in Whistler. He likes the saltiness of the cheese
and its hayeld smell. Potatoes grow plentifully in the Pemberton
area, just outside of Whistler.
Recipe used with permission from Arazi: Seasonal Recipes
from the Celebrated Whistler Restaurant by James Walt.
Fingerling Potato Chips
and Pecorino-Chive Cream
8oz large ngerling potatoes (about 7 or 8)
12 cups peanut or vegetable oil, for deep frying
1 Tbsp Fleur de sel
1 Tbsp chives, cut in 1-inch sticks for garnish
2 to 3 fresh bay leaves, for garnish
PECORINO-CHIVE CREAM
1 2⁄3 cups whipping cream
1 clove garlic, sliced
1 bay leaf
1 spring fresh rosemary
7⁄8 cups grated pecorino Romano cheese
3 ½ oz goat cheese
2 Tbsp chopped chives
Potato Chips: Rinse and scrub the potatoes. Using
a mandoline, slice the potatoes as thinly as
possible. Do not allow the slices to break. Place
the potatoes in a large bowl, cover with cold
water and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
Pecorino-Chive Cream: Place the cream, garlic,
bay leaf and rosemary in a small pot on medium
heat. Once the cream is hot, remove from the
heat and allow it to infuse for 20 minutes.
ONLINE BONUS:
Enjoy this holiday treat from
Chef James Walt’s acclaimed
Araxi cookbook
Combine the pecorino Romano and goat cheeses
in a medium bowl. Warm the cream infusion on
low heat, then strain it through a ne-mesh sieve
over the cheeses. Discard the solids, then whisk
the cream and cheese mixture until smooth.
Fold in the chopped chives and refrigerate the
dip for 2 hours, or until it becomes rm.
Finish Potato Chips: Fill a deep pot or a wok twothirds
full with peanut (or vegetable) oil and
heat it to 330°F (use a deep-fat thermometer
to check the temperature). Drain the potatoes
and carefully pat them dry with paper towels.
Fry the potatoes in small batches for 3 minutes,
until golden brown, then use a slotted spoon to
transfer the chips to paper towels and season
with eur de sel.
To Serve: Spoon the pecorino-chive cream into a
piping bag tted with a wide nozzle. Pipe a line
of dip along each chip. Arrange the potato chips
on a serving platter, garnish with the chive sticks
and bay leaves and pass the plate around.
Wine: Sip village Chablis or unoaked B.C.
Chardonnay, or some B.C. bubbly would be fun.