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Chapter X
Some Facts for the Tourist and the Economist
Bulgaria is in the main tableau or plain land sheltered by lofty
mountains. On the north it is bounded by the Danube until the town
of Silistra is reached, when an artificial frontier cuts down from the
river to the Black Sea coast. By the cession of territory to Roumania in
1914 this artificial frontier took a more southerly course, and reaches
now to a point just north of Varna. The coast of the Black Sea bounds
Bulgaria on the east, and she has there two ports, Varna and Burgas.
On the south the frontier is now European Turkey as far west almost
as the 24th parallel of latitude, and then the bordering territory is
Greece. On the west the boundary is Servia. The Balkan Mountains
and the Rhodope Mountains run roughly east and west: the former
almost in the centre of Bulgaria; the latter near to the Turkish border.
The valleys and plains of Bulgaria are watered by tributaries of
the Danube, by tributaries of the Maritza and the Struma flowing
into the Aegean Sea, and by some small streams flowing directly into
the Black Sea. The soil of the plains and the tableland is generally
good, and 70 per cent of it is suitable for cultivation. In the mountains
there are a few small lakes and many deep gorges and noble peaks,
offering to the traveller the attraction of scenery wilder than that of
the Alps.
For the tourist with an autumn or a spring month to spare, I could
imagine no more interesting journey than to cross on horseback or
with an ox-wagon the Rhodopes or the Balkans. (In the summer
such a tour would be less pleasant because of the heat of the plains
and the prevalence of flies.) But in the autumn, of all seasons, the
Balkan Peninsula has supreme charms. The climate then is perfect,
usually fine, with warm clear days and cold nights. The atmosphere
is full of light and colour. Sunset as seen from the lower foothills of
the Balkans is a rare pageant of glowing colour. These foothills are
covered with oak scrub, which with the first frosts of autumn puts
on burning robes of red and gold. As the sun goes down to rest in
the western sky, hung with banners of the same red and gold, the
twilight steals up first as a pink radiance then as a deep purple glow.
Light melts into light—softly, insensibly—the display in the sky
and on the hill-sides gradually passing from one colour to another,
until at last night and darkness come to end the long-drawn-out
procession of colour.
These wild mountains abound in game which has been driven
from the tamer parts of Europe. There are bears, wolves, jackals, wild
boars, deer, chamois; and all kinds of birds, such as eagles, falcons,
bustards, wild geese, pheasants, partridges, woodcock, snipe, and
moorhen. For the sportsman the Balkan Peninsula is almost the
only tract left in Europe offering really wild game. King Ferdinand,
who recognises the tourist possibilities of his country, has lately
encouraged the stocking of the Rhodope streams with trout, to offer
another attraction to the visitor.
Guarding the Flocks and Herds