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mike davis - Libcom

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SCRIPTING LAS VEGAS 23<br />

gaming tables dominate, framed by rectangular molding on the ceiling,<br />

recalling Monaco and the high rollers that the Monte Carlo has tried to<br />

lure. Of course, here, too, myths precede facts: high rollers generally<br />

have their own private spaces, with restricted entrances, not on casino<br />

floors. Tables on the main floor at the Monte Carlo merely suggest James<br />

Bond in a tuxedo at baccarat.<br />

At New York New York, gaming tables suggest an imaginary proletariat,<br />

craps on the Lower East Side in 1915, with the velvet tables<br />

submerged under canopies. Apparently, however, the appeal of craps is<br />

diminishing. As of 1950, perhaps, or 1955, when the Strip really took<br />

off, craps was very much perceived as a sidewalk sport. The war added<br />

to its romance: many GIs identified craps with months stuck on a ship;<br />

the Sergeant Bilko or Damon Runyon mystique came to mind. Craps<br />

suggested the nineteenth-century mining-town West as well; that was<br />

essential to the Vegas Vic promotional campaign of the late 1940s into<br />

the 1950s. Today, very few men remember playing craps in a submarine<br />

or at the motor pool. Increasingly, the anonymity of the slot machine is<br />

more soothing for men and women alike: the bodiless cybernetic dealer;<br />

poker as private, not communal.<br />

In short, while Vegas may be more “pedestrian friendly,” the slot<br />

machine yet again raises the question of where is everyone walking to—<br />

not through neighborhoods, not inside a world of mixed use. They make<br />

their way through narratized retail shopping as tourists; this is utterly<br />

different from the patterns of the industrial city or the baroque city that<br />

are being idealized. I won’t say worse, only different. I leave moral judgments<br />

for others. Of course, my urban nostalgia probably shows<br />

through anyway. But my taste for thin-crust pizza and chewy bagels is<br />

irrelevant. Instead, let me repeat the key issue: the new Vegas Strip enhances<br />

the interior narrative, not the communal process. That is not<br />

particularly evil, simply a new version of what Baudelaire meant by<br />

mixing your solitude in crowds of people. It is less like walking through<br />

New York in 1930, more like gambling on a movie set. It is part of what<br />

I call “the metropolitan suburb,” where streets are privatized and urban<br />

interiors operate like cable TV with a food court.<br />

We make too much of the myth that thousands of people watching<br />

the volcano at the Mirage constitute an urban experience. Why in that<br />

sentence do we leave the term “urban” undefined? Certainly, we do not<br />

mean urban in the sense of Parisians in a Daumier lithograph watching<br />

the saltimbanques perform. Do we really imagine any return at all of<br />

the warm evening we see in Whistler’s famous painting of the fireworks

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