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“Ifugao” refers to the group of people living in Ifugao province ...

“Ifugao” refers to the group of people living in Ifugao province ...

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which hang much lower than <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r necklaces, are sometimes added. In some places,<br />

men wear a tight necklace <strong>of</strong> trapezoidal shells.<br />

Many <strong>Ifugao</strong> men also wear leglets made <strong>of</strong> copper wire wound spirally <strong>in</strong> 20 <strong>to</strong> 40<br />

coils, gradually <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> width from above downward. Some wear armlets made <strong>of</strong><br />

tusks <strong>of</strong> wild boar. A belt called g<strong>in</strong>uttu, made <strong>of</strong> round white shells kept <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r by a<br />

str<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> rattan dyed red, is worn at <strong>the</strong> waist from <strong>the</strong> right side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> upper part <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> left thigh, and <strong>the</strong>n allowed <strong>to</strong> hang loose at <strong>the</strong> left side.<br />

Head ornaments are <strong>the</strong> kung-kung, made <strong>of</strong> three or four fea<strong>the</strong>rs tied <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> hair, a<br />

piece <strong>of</strong> white and blue porcela<strong>in</strong> shaped like a bird, and tied <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> hair near <strong>the</strong> crown<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> head.<br />

<strong>Ifugao</strong> women, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, wear <strong>the</strong> tapis, a wraparound skirt called ampuyo or<br />

<strong>to</strong>lge. The ord<strong>in</strong>ary tapis consists <strong>of</strong> a blue cloth with narrow white horizontal stripes<br />

and two broken l<strong>in</strong>es <strong>of</strong> red triangles, and is worn just above <strong>the</strong> knee (Vanoverbergh<br />

1929:209). <strong>Ifugao</strong> girls beg<strong>in</strong> <strong>to</strong> wear <strong>the</strong> tapis by <strong>the</strong> time <strong>the</strong>y are five or six years<br />

old. There are five k<strong>in</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> <strong>Ifugao</strong> skirts. The <strong>in</strong>ggalgaletget is worn just above <strong>the</strong><br />

knee. It is full <strong>of</strong> narrow stripes and is made <strong>of</strong> two pieces <strong>of</strong> cloth jo<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

This skirt is for work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> rice paddies, but is not <strong>in</strong> fashion at present.<br />

The <strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>lu is a typical <strong>Ifugao</strong> skirt made <strong>of</strong> three pieces <strong>of</strong> cloth. The pieces are jo<strong>in</strong>ed<br />

<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r with a takdog and o<strong>the</strong>r stitches, a black thread alternat<strong>in</strong>g with white. The<br />

<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>wa skirt is also typically <strong>Ifugao</strong> although less frequently woven. It is shorter than<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>lu but longer than <strong>the</strong> work<strong>in</strong>g skirt. The gamit skirt is made <strong>of</strong> two equal<br />

pieces <strong>of</strong> cloth jo<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r by a takdang stitch. Red and white threads alternate<br />

with white and yellow (takdog stitch); its edges that fray are hemmed and have a<br />

bambulud. Gamit skirts are characterized by elaborate border designs which vary<br />

accord<strong>in</strong>g <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> type and color <strong>of</strong> alternat<strong>in</strong>g threads woven <strong>in</strong><strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> textile.<br />

<strong>Ifugao</strong> upper lamma or garments are seldom woven <strong>to</strong>day because upper garments can<br />

now be easily bought from outsiders. The lamma used <strong>to</strong> be a work<strong>in</strong>g woman’s<br />

garment, protect<strong>in</strong>g her back from <strong>the</strong> sun and weeds dur<strong>in</strong>g weed<strong>in</strong>g and harvest<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

The lamma is a short sleeveless jacket <strong>of</strong> pla<strong>in</strong> white cloth which barely reaches <strong>the</strong><br />

waist.<br />

The belts or supplementary girdles <strong>of</strong> <strong>Ifugao</strong> women are worn <strong>to</strong> keep <strong>the</strong> skirt <strong>in</strong> place.<br />

<strong>Ifugao</strong> skirts are wide, cover<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> thighs whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> women are walk<strong>in</strong>g, squatt<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

or sitt<strong>in</strong>g. However, <strong>the</strong> upper portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> skirt usually reveals <strong>the</strong> navel and <strong>the</strong><br />

s<strong>to</strong>mach, so <strong>the</strong> belt helps keep <strong>the</strong> skirt <strong>in</strong> place while cover<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>mach. Any<br />

woven band may be used as a balko as long as it is wide and long enough <strong>to</strong> be wound<br />

twice around <strong>the</strong> waist.<br />

Some <strong>Ifugao</strong> women allow <strong>the</strong>ir hair <strong>to</strong> hang loose at <strong>the</strong> back, but some fold <strong>the</strong>ir hair<br />

up and use a str<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> beads called atake or <strong>in</strong>ipul; <strong>the</strong>se <strong>the</strong>y w<strong>in</strong>d several times around<br />

<strong>the</strong> head <strong>to</strong> keep <strong>the</strong> hair <strong>in</strong> place. The atake is made <strong>of</strong> small white beads while <strong>the</strong>

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